Chapter XVII: Front Matter (17)

[Sidenote: _St. Pedro._]

3. _San Pedro_, though lying under a hot and unwholsom Climate, us’d formerly to be a brave City of Trade; but it is gone much to decay since _Golfo Dolce_ hath been discover’d, because from that Bay the Commodities are carried in Barques up into the Countrey.

[Sidenote: _Juan de Puerto de Cavallos._]

4. The Village _Juan de Puerto de Cavallos_, inhabited by Factors and Moors: It receiv’d that Denomination, because not far from it several Horses were forc’d to be thrown over-board in a Storm. Though it be but ill fortifi’d, yet it hath an exceeding large Haven. Captain _Christopher Newport_ arriving here _Anno 1591._ found two hundred Houses, and in them a considerable Booty left, notwithstanding four Ships richly laden had lately set Sail from thence.

Six years after _Newport_, Capt. _Ant. Sherly_ re-took the Place, and leaving the Haven open for Pyrats, _Alphonsus Coriado_ judg’d it convenient to remove the Trading Place to _Amatique_; he built the Village _Thomas de Castilla_, and fortifi’d the same against all manner of Assaults.

Behind _Cavallos_ lies the Valley _Naco_, which is exceeding fruitful, being situate between high Mountains, where formerly was found plenty of Silver.

[Sidenote: _Truxillo._]

5. Eastward from _Cavallos_ appears the famous City _Truxillo_, near a large Bay; secur’d from all Storms by two Cliffs, full of Trees; the Mouth of the Haven call’d _Joan Gil_, is above two Leagues broad, and receives two Rivers, one from each side of the City: The Stream _Quaimarotte_ flows Eastward, and the River _Antonio_ Westward, both abounding in Fish. The Countrey round about produces abundance of all sorts of Provisions, and chiefly abounds in Grapes, which are gather’d twice a year: Eight days after _August_ they cut their Vines, which afford them ripe Grapes again in _October_; they have two Harvests of Corn; also Lemons and Oranges are very plentiful: The Cattel brought hither from _Spain_ are exceedingly increas’d to an incredible number.

_Truxillo_ it self lying on a steep Mountain, is defended on that side which respects the Sea, with a thick Wall of six Foot high; between which and the Haven are many brambly Bushes, which prevent the access to the Wall, onely a narrow and steep way leading up to the City, which hath a strong Gate, guarded with two Brass Guns, and sufficiently Fortifi’d to oppose an Enemy. The Eastern Cliff, which bends before the Haven is call’d _Punta la Rye_, on which stands a House with a high Beacon: Beyond the Wall Eastward, near the Haven, is a Ship-yard, before which stands a large Woodden Cross: The Castle in which the City Store is kept, joyns to the Wall, near unto which, within the Town appears St. _Francis_ Church; but the Cathedral call’d _Eglesia Major_, is seen above all other Buildings: The Houses cover’d with _Palmito_-Leaves, have Walls of Pleited Bushes, Plaister’d over within and without: Behind the City, where it lies open, are exceeding high Mountains.

[Sidenote: Attempts upon this place by the _English_ and _Dutch_.]

_Anno 1576._ the _English_ falling on this strong Place, carry’d a rich Booty from thence; after which, Capt. _Anth. Sherly_ and Capt. _Will. Parker_ ventur’d once more on the same, but being discover’d by the Centinel, were forc’d to Retreat, not without a considerable loss: When not long after, Captain _John Van Hoorn_ a _Hollander_, attempting the same, had much better success; for he Weighing Anchor for _Pernambuc_, with four Frigats, three Ketches, and a Sloop, set Sail to _Truxillo_, where arriving, lay close before the City with his four Frigats, which fired very fiercely on the Town; the Inhabitants of which not being idle, kill’d three Men in one Ship, forc’d her to fall farther off from the Castle: Whilst the Ketches and Sloop went about a Gun shot Westward beyond the City, towards the River _Antonio_, where they Landed two hundred and fifty Soldiers, which march’d with all speed up the Hill, where the Castle lay which they Scal’d at Noon-day; the Besieged being provided with seven Guns, shot, and threw Stones continually amongst them, yet were forc’d to Retreat from the _Dutch_ Hand-granado’s: During the storm, the Admiral himself Landed, but before he came out of the Boat, the foremention’d Soldiers had made themselves Masters of the Fort, with the loss of onely eight Men, and were busie Pillaging all places they came at, and carrying their gotten Booty to a Watch-house near the Castle on the Shore; when on a sudden a Fire happen’d in the East part of _Truxillo_, which increas’d in such a manner, that in few hours two third parts of the City lay in Ashes; every one then had enough to do to save themselves, yet for all the haste they made, several _Hollanders_ were kill’d at the blowing up of the Magazine, and most of the Booty lost by the Fire; insomuch that they carry’d but two hundred thirty nine Skins, six Bales of _Indigo_, eight hundred and twenty Pounds of _Sarsaparilla_, seven Brass, and three Iron Guns, four Clocks, and some few trifles with them; having before made an agreement for twenty Pound of Silver, with the Governor _Joan de Miranda_, who inform’d them, that they had not the least knowledge of the _Hollanders_ Fleet, till the Evening, when the Beacon on _Punta La Rye_ was fir’d: Moreover, that the City was inhabited by two hundred _Spaniards_, and as many more _Mulatoes_ and _Moors_; and that the Trade thereof was much gone to decay, because there had been no Gallies there in two years before.

Twenty seven Leagues from this City lies the Village _Jorgo de Olancho_, where four thousand _Spaniards_ force Tribute from sixteen thousand _Indians_, who possess much Gold.

SECT. IV.
Nicaragua.

[Sidenote: Situation and bounds.]

_Nicaragua_ is a County of this Province, border’d Northward with _Honduras_; on the East, with the _Atlantick Ocean_, and part of _Veragua_; on the South, with _Mare del Zur_; and on the West, with _Guatimala_, being call’d by _Diego Lopez de Salzado_, _The New Kingdom of_ Leon, and comprizing several little Territories, as _Nicoya_, _Nequecheri_, _Mabyth_, _Deria_, _Masaya_, _Mandigua_, _Cacoloaque_, _Cepeoco_, _Los Micos_, _Madira_, and the _Contales_. It hath few Rivers in it, the want whereof is supply’d by the benefit of a great Lake, in the midst of the Countrey, call’d by the _Spaniards_, _Laguna de Nicaragua_, containing, as is suppos’d, above one hundred Leagues in compass. It empties it self by the Port of _St. Juan_ into the _Atlantick_ or North-Sea, but reacheth as far as the South or _Mare del Zur_, at least within a very few Leagues; and from whence some _Spanish_ Captains are said to have made a passage, though with much difficulty, into the Lake, and from thence to the North-Sea. It is abundantly well stor’d with good Fish, but withal much haunted with Crocodiles; and the Countrey about it so plentiful in all things, especially Cattel, Cotten-Wool, Sugars, and all kind of Fruits: Amongst which, the chiefest is the _Zeiba_, which is of so great a thickness, that fifteen Men holding Hand in Hand, can scarce encompass the same. The _Callabashes_ ripen here in fourteen days time: The Sea along the Coast, breeds Whales and other Sea-Monsters, which are often seen above Water.

[Sidenote: Nature of the Inhabitants.]

The Inhabitants of this Countrey, (except the _Chontales_, which live on the Mountains, and maintain their old Salvage Customs) have for the most part learnt the _Spanish_ Tongue and Manners, and exercise themselves in all sorts of Arts and Siences, especially in Working of Silver, making of Clothes, Wax-Work, and the like: From the Mountains they gather Balsom, Liquid-Amber, Turpentine: They also drive a great Trade in Cotton, Skins, and several sorts of Provisions, to _Panama_, and _Nombre de Dios_.

The Lake _Laguna de Nicaragua_, which hath a hundred and seventeen Leagues in Circumference, and round about inhabited, is by three Leagues of Land separated from the South-Sea; and discharges its Waters into the River _Desaguadero_, which falls into the Northern Ocean. _Alphonsus Calera_, and _Diego Machuca de Zuaso_, were the first that Sail’d out of the foremention’d Lake into the Sea, not without many dangers, by reason of the great Water-falls, call’d _Rondales_, which fall into the River _Desaguadero_, and forc’d them often times to draw their Barques over the Land.

[Sidenote: Cities.]

The chief City is, 1. _Leon_, which is surrounded with Woods, and lies close by the Lake; hath a great Church, five Cloysters belonging to the _Monks, de la Mercede_, several Houses for the King’s Officers, and a hundred and twenty thousand Families of _Indians_ which pay Tribute. Three Leagues beyond _Leon_ appears a high spiry Mountain, from whose top, both Morning and Evening, rises a mighty smoke, and sometimes casts out great sulphurous Stones over the neighboring Fields, and on a sudden mighty Flames. A _Dominican_ Monk, in hopes to get some melted Gold out of its burning Mouth, went up the same with four of his Fraternity, and carry’d an Iron Chain and a Kettle, which were no sooner let down into the hole, but they were immediately melted; yet not so discourag’d, they resolv’d to venture a second time with stronger Materials, which nevertheless had the same, or rather worse event; for the Fire flew out in such a manner, that the _Dominicans_ sadly scorch’d, had enough to do to escape with Life, since which none durst presume to approach the same.

But besides the Episcopal City _Leon_, Erected by _Franciscus Fernandez_, 2. _Granada_ acknowledges the same Builder, and lying also on the shore of _Laguna de Nicaragua_, is adorn’d with a Castle, Church, and several Sugar-Mills: Not far from it lie the small Lakes _Masaya_ and _Lindiri_; the first which is inclos’d between exceeding high Mountains, covers the Foot of the burning Mountain _Masaya_; the other falls into _Laguna de Nicaragua_, near which is the smoky Mountain _Munbacho_, surrounded with Fruit-Trees.

3. _&_ 4. The Towns _Jean_, and _Neuva Segovia_, which are not far from thence, are of little consequence.

5. _Realeio_, this is, as it were, the _Chattam_ of _America_, being a place on the South-Sea, where the King of _Spain_ hath all his Ships built that are made of _American_ Timber, and inhabited by few or none but Shipwrights, Mariners, and Men of that kind of Profession.

6. _&_ 7. _Nicoya_, _Avarines_.

8. _Cartago_, forty Leagues distant from _Nicoya_, and lying almost in the midst of the _Isthmus_, or _Streight_ of _Darien_, equally distant both from the North and South Sea; on both which it is said likewise to have a convenient Port or Haven for Shipping.

[Sidenote: Strange manner of Dancing.]

The _Spaniards_, when first they Landed here, call’d this Countrey _Mahomets Paradise_, because of its exceeding Fruitfulness. The _Cacao_ which they use here in stead of Money, is not unlike the Stone of an Almond. The Inhabitants, in stead of using a Steel and Flint to strike Fire withal, rub two pieces of Wood together so long, till one of them is kindled; and burn the Boughs of Pine-Trees in stead of Candles. Amongst the several Languages which they speak, the _Mexican_ is the chiefest: Amongst their Recreations, Dancing is principal, which is perform’d after a very strange manner, for they meet sometimes two or three thousand together, according to the bigness of the Province, in a spacious Field, which is made clean before for that purpose: He that leads the Dance goes backward, and with many strange Gestures, turns himself about, which the rest, following four and four together in a row, imitate, whilst their _Tambores_ beat on hollow Instruments, and sing Songs, which are first answer’d by the Ring-leader of the Dance, and then seconded by the whole Company, each of them waving a Fan or a _Callabash_, and being all adorn’d with Plumes of Feathers on their Heads, and Strings with Shells about their Arms and Legs; they also act several antick Tricks, the one, the blind Man, the other, the Cripple, one feigns himself to be deaf, the other makes a wry Mouth, one cries, and another laughs, whilest others drink healths in _Chocolate_, which continues till Midnight.

[Sidenote: The Fish _Manati_.]

A King of this Countrey in former times us’d to feed the Fish _Manati_ with Bread, in the Lake _Guainabo_, where it would appear at its being call’d _Matto_, _Matto_, which signifies _Noble-minded_, and oftentimes carry eight or ten Boys on its Back from one side of the Lake to the other; but being shot by a _Spaniard_ with an Arrow, never appear’d again.

There is likewise a black Beast in this Countrey call’d _Cascu_, resembling in some things a Hog; it hath a hard Skin, little Eyes, open Ears, cloven Feet, short Nose, and makes such a terrible noise, that it affrights those which hear it.

No less strange and wonderful is the Fox-Ape, which hath two Bellies one under another; in the lowermost of which it carries its Young, which are never brought into the World till they are able to shift for their own Food. It hath the Body of a Fox, Feet like a Man’s Hands, and Ears like a Batt.

It will not be amiss before we conclude with this Province, to give you a Relation of the Discourse which hapned _Anno 1527._ between the _Spanish_ Commander _Francisco de Monteio_ and the _Nicaraguan_ Casique _Alquinotex_, who being a hundred and ten years old, told him, “That before the _Spaniards_ arrival there, great numbers of his Soldiers perish’d after a strange manner; for after having vomited abundance of Worms, they fell down dead on a sudden: those that escap’d the Contagion differing amongst themselves, made two Parties, which twice Engaging with one another, each of them lost above a hundred and fifty thousand Men. Yet both these Plagues were no ways to be compar’d to the Slaughter which the _Spaniards_ had made amongst them.”

About the same time an _Italian_, call’d _Hieronymo Bonzo_, Lodging with a _Nicaraguan_ Noble-man that understood the _Spanish_ Tongue, was thus set upon by him: _What do not_ (_Oh_ Christ) _the_ Christians _do! they no sooner get their Foot into an_ Indian_’s Hut, but they commandingly call for Maiz, Honey, Winter-Clothes, Gold, Silver, and a Woman to cool their lustful desires: Certainly there is nothing more vicious on Earth_. To which _Bonzo_ gave him this Answer: _The wicked_ Spaniards _commit oftentimes unseemly things_. The _Indian_ again suddenly retorted, saying, _Where are any such Men to be found as good_ Spaniards? _I have never known any but wicked Villains._ To which _Bonzo_ said, _Why have you made place for them on_ Nicaragua? Which was thus reply’d to by the Noble-man: “All People round about took Oath on the first News of the _Christians_ arrival, to hazard all, and fight to the last Man, before they would be under the insupportable Yoke, with which they had heard other Countreys were oppress’d with by them. To which purpose they made ready Bowes, Arrows, Lances, Stones, Clubs, and other Weapons of War: But when it came to the trial, the _Spanish_ Horse, of which they had never seen the like, struck such a terror into the _Indians_, that they fled, and sent two Agents to _Monteio_ to desire Peace; but their Design was onely to gain time, that they might gather new Forces, to venture a second Encounter; which prov’d as fatal to them as the first. Then desiring Peace once more, they gather’d all that were able to bear Arms, and swore one to another not to stir a Foot; and withal made a Law, That whosoever did shrink should be kill’d immediately: But the Women being inform’d hereof, begg’d that they might rather suffer under the _Spanish_ Yoke, than be torn in pieces by their Dogs, or kill’d by their Bullets and Swords, alledging, that they were not able to resist the _Spaniards_; and entreated them, that if they were resolv’d to go on with their first Design, they would first send their Wives and Children to the other World, that so they might not fall into the hands of the merciless and bloody _Christians_: Whereupon most Voices judg’d it convenient to make use of the Opportunity, and to submit to _Monteio_. But his cruel dealings made some to contradict that Determination, for which they paid dearly; for not onely they, but their little Infants, were put to the most cruel Deaths imaginable; which made many of them also to lay violent hands on themselves.”

SECT. V.
Costarica.

[Sidenote: Bounds and Nature of the Countrey.]

_Costarica_ borders on the East with _Veragua_; on the South and East, with the Sea; and on the North, with _Nicaragua_. The Countrey it self is barren and mountainous; whose Inhabitants were valiant enough to Encounter with the _Spanish_ Forces, being unwilling to lose their former Priviledges.

This Coast was discover’d full by _Christopher Columbus_, who _Anno 1502._ Sailing up the Rivers _Belen_ and _Veragua_ with Barques, took much Gold out of the Mynes _Urira_, but chiefly from between the Roots of Trees which were grown together.

SECT. VI.
Veragua.

[Sidenote: Bounds and Nature of the Country.]

_Veragua_ is bounded on the West with _Costarica_; on the East it hath the District, or Countrey of _Panama_, being otherwise wash’d on all sides by the Sea. It hath its Name from a River of great note in this Tract, by which it was first discover’d. The Countrey is for the most part mountainous, and the Soil outwardly barren, but recompencing all defects with the abundance of its more inward Wealth, that is to say, in the richness of its Mynes, of which it is said to afford many, and so inexhaustibly rich and good, that the _Spaniards_ here know no end of their Wealth; although by the stoutness and untameableness of the Natives, it was a long time, and they met with many difficulties, before they could make themselves Masters of the Treasure.

[Sidenote: Its chief Towns.]

The chief Towns they have here are 1. _La Conception_, lying at the Mouth of a River so nam’d, and the Seat of the Governor.

2. _La Trinidad_, upon the Banks of the same River likewise, but down towards _Port Beleno_, and about six Leagues Eastward of _Conception_.

3. _St. Foy_, twelve Leagues more to the South, where the _Spaniards_ melt their Gold, and cast it into Bars or Ingots.

4. _Carlos_, a Town they have upon the Coast of _Mare del Zur_.

5. _Philippina_, another on the West of _Carlos_; both of these seated upon a large capacious Bay; before which there lie certain little Islands, to the number of thirty or more, which the _Spaniards_ are said to have wholly dispeopled long since, by forcing the Natives over into the Continent to work in the Mynes, as usually they did before the Emperor’s Prohibition: but now they use Slaves or _Negro_’s, which they buy for that purpose from _Guinee_ and other Parts.

SECT. VII.
Guatimala, properly so call’d.

[Sidenote: Bounds of the Country.]

_Guatimala_, specially so call’d, hath on the West the River _Xicalapa_, which divides it from _Vera Paz_; on the East it is bounded with the Countrey of _Nicaragua_; on the North, with _Honduras_; and on the South, with _Mare del Zur_.

This Countrey was conquer’d by _Peter de Alvarado_, _Anno 1525._ It is, by reason of its neighborhood with _Vera Paz_, not altogether clear of Mountains, but otherwise well water’d with Rivers, and enrich’d with fair and fruitful Valleys, which afford not onely good Pasturage, and many great Herds of Cattel, but likewise good store of Wheat, _Maiz_, and other Fruits of the Earth. Great plenty of Cotton-Wool is generally both here and in the other Provinces, _viz._ _Vera Paz_, _Chiapa_, &c. some Medicinal Woods likewise, and Liquors, and absolutely the best Sulphur in _America_. The People are generally tractable and well dispos’d, both in point of Religion and civil Government.

[Sidenote: Towns of note.]

The Towns of chief note are 1. _Guatimala_, now call’d _St. Jago de Guatimala_ since the re-building thereof; for about the Year 1586. it was almost buried in Ashes, which one of the neighboring Mountains, for the space of six Moneths together, continually belch’d out in such fearful quantities, that many People were slain, the old City deserted, and a new one built in another place. The day before this sad Accident hapned, the neighboring Mountains were observ’d to shiver, and a great noise was heard from under Ground; which amazing the _Indians_, the news thereof was carried to the Bishop, _Franciscus Moroquin_, who narrowly enquiring into the Causes of these Accidents, and what they might portend, found that a sad Event would suddenly follow, as accordingly it did; for about midnight on the eighth of _August, Anno 1541._ such a mighty store of Rain fell, as if the Clouds had been all dissolv’d into Water, which came rowling from the Rocky Mountains with such violence, that it wash’d down great Stones, which carried on by the strength of the Water against the Houses, beat them down; and none could have seen how they were ruin’d, had not the mighty flashes of Lightning, follow’d by terrible claps of Thunder, lighted the Night. Some instantly deserting this miserable place, fled up into the Countrey, and there built a new _Guatimala_ (as above-mention’d) sur-nam’d _St. Jago_, three Leagues farther towards the East, in a Valley through which flow two Rivers, between two _Vulcans_, or smoaking Mountains, which sometimes vomit forth terrible Flames, mix’d with dreadful Thunder-claps, Ashes, and great Stones, insomuch that the Ground all about it, which is exceeding fruitful, seems to move. There are many of these _Vulcans_ in several parts of _America_, as namely at _Arequipa_ in the Kingdom of _Peru_, at _Puebla de los Angelos_, in the Province of _Tlascalla_ abovesaid, a Mountain of so great heighth, that they are fain to go little less than thirty Leagues turning and winding before they can reach the top of it, and others in several other places. They are generally Mountains of great heighth, and running sharp upwards, but at the top containing some quantity of plain and level Ground; in the midst whereof is a Pit or Hole, out of which abundance of Smoak and fiery Sparkles are vomited almost continually, and so deep, that they are suppos’d for the most part to reach to the very bottom of the Mountain. Some of these _Vulcans_ cast forth neither Fire nor Smoak, yet are clearly seen to burn at the bottom with a quick Fire, and which is so extreamly hot, that it instantly melteth Iron, or any other Metal that is cast into it, as by experience hath been found: for some conceiving that the Matter which maintains these Fires within the Bowels of the Earth so long together, can be nothing else but melted Gold, have endeavor’d several times to extract and draw it forth in certain Vessels of Iron and Brass, which they have caus’d to be let down into the bottom of the _Vulcan_ or Pit, by long Iron Chains made on purpose: but, as we said, the extream heat and force of the Fire below always melted them before they could be drawn up again, and by that means hath rendred all such Attempts frustrate. In this Town, now call’d _St. Jago_, reside above six hundred _Spanish_ Commanders, and more than twenty five thousand _Indians_ which pay Tribute. They have also a brave Church and two Cloysters, one belonging to the _Dominicans_, and another to the Order _La Merced_, and likewise a noble Hospital. Not far from thence is a place call’d _Yzaleos_, where there are Orchards of _Cacoa_ two Leagues in square, each of them producing yearly as much as fifty thousand Men are able to carry. They reckon the _Cacao_ by _Contels_, which is the number of four hundred; by _Xequipiles_, of eight thousand; and by _Carga_’s, of twenty four thousand. In this County is a Mountain, whose top smoaking continually consumes by degrees, and oftentimes covers the neighboring Countrey with Ashes. The Water which flows from the same differs very much, for some of it is wholsom and fit to drink; some foul and stinking, and some turns Wood, if laid in the same, to Stone. Here is also the Beast whose Head is highly esteem’d for the _Bezoar_-Stone, which it carries in the same. Here is likewise a little Bear, which in stead of a Mouth, hath a long Nose with a round Hole in it, and a hollow Tongue, with which it sucks Honey, and disturbs the Nests of Pismires. The Women in this Place make curious Earthen Ware, colour’d either red or black with the Mud of two several Brooks. The _Indians_ call’d the boyling Fountains in this County _Hell_, because they bubble up a Bowes-shot high, and make the River _Caliente_, which, notwithstanding it hath pass’d half a League through a wide Channel, retains its exceeding heat. Not far from it lies a Stone, which having a Crack in the middle, sends forth a thick Damp, and against bad Weather a thundering noise. On the Mountains grow exceeding large Trees, especially Oak. Here Pismires which are of an extraordinary bigness, are brought to Market amongst other Provisions.

2. _St. Salvador_, forty Leagues distant from _Guatimala_ Eastward, and seated upon the River _Guacapa_, and having about it a small Territory, which by some is accounted a distinct Countrey or Province.

3. _Acaputla_, a Town of the Natives, situated at the Mouth of the River, and being as it were, the Port-Town to _St. Salvador_.

4. _Trinidad_, a Town of great resort, being the greatest Empory and Place of Traffick for all sorts of Commodities, betwixt the People of _New Spain_ and those of _Peru_.

5. _St. Michaels_, two or three Leagues distant from the Bay _Fonseca_, upon the South Sea.

6. _Xeres de la Frontera_, on the Confines of this Province, towards the Borders of _Nicaragua_, besides several Villages which we shall have occasion to mention.

In the middle of a Lake within this Territory is an Island, on which the _Indians_ had a Tradition, That a Man no sooner set his Foot but he died immediately: Which Opinion of theirs was chang’d when the _Spaniards_ went thither in Boat-fulls and return’d safe again, with Relation that they had seen a large Stone Image, resembling a Woman; before which lay the Ashes and Bones of slain People.

Round about the Village _Guaymoco_ grow great Balsom-Trees, which afford Timber of fifty five Foot long. From this Village leads a Way to the City _Salvador_, near which the fore-mention’d River _Guachapa_ runs with so many windings, that the Traveller is forc’d to cross the same several times before he can come to the Foot of a Mountain which formerly cast out terrible Flames; but now the combustible Matter being consum’d, there appears onely a great Hole on the top, with Ashes in a large compass round about it. At the Foot of the same are two Pits, one of which smoaks continually in such a manner, that it stifles all those that approach it; yet the Mountain is well overspread with Cedars and Pine-Trees.

Three Leagues farther lies the Village _Nixapa_; and not far from thence the Hill _Elmal Pais_, which consists of great Stones and Ashes, wonderfully mixt together: No less wonderful is a Brook which flows in the Night till Morning, and then sinks into the Ground: And in the Countrey _Choluteca_ is another, which hides it self at Noon, and appears again towards Night. The Cavern which formerly produc’d Fire and Smoke, now affords good Water to the Village _Curcatan_, and City _Salvador_: Near the Village _Yztepegve_ are five Springs, which cast up Allom and Sulphur. The Natives _Chontales_ which speak several Languages, flock to the Village _Mimilla_, to make Offerings; not far from hence are two Pits, one of which is full of boyling Water, and the other as cold as Ice: Moreover, _Cocori_ lies near a high Mountain, on the top of which is a very turbulent Lake.

[Sidenote: Havens.]

The chiefest Haven of this Countrey, which lies along the South-Sea, is _Bahia de Fonseca_, Discover’d by _Gonsalves Davila_, _Anno 1522._ and so nam’d from _Joan Rodrigas de Fonseca_, Bishop of _Burgos_; In the middle thereof appears the Island _Petronella_, with nine others, of which four are inhabited by _Indians_.

The good conveniency of the Haven _Fonseca_, induc’d some of the _Spaniards_ to make a new Passage from the side of the Southern Ocean, to the Northern, _viz._ from _Panama_ to _Nombre de Dios_, designing it to reach from the said Haven _Fonseca_, unto _Puerto de Carellos_, which are distant one from the other forty five Leagues; most of it good way, except some over-grown Mountains, which might be made passable with little trouble; to which purpose they built the Town _Buena Esperanca_, yet nevertheless the Work remain’d unprosecuted.

There are moreover reckon’d as appertaining to _Guatimala_, the small Provinces _Soconusco_, _Suchitepec_, and _Chilulteca_, the chief of them being _Soconusco_, to which belongs the Town of _Gevetlan_, where the _Spanish_ Governor hath his Residence; the rest seem to be onely small Territories about Towns of the same Name, in like manner as St. _Salvador_, and St. _Miguel_ before-mention’d.

CHAP. V.
The Kingdom of Mexico, or New-Spain.

[Sidenote: Bounds of _New-Spain_.]

_New Spain_, the chiefest part of the Northern _America_, reckons in length from the East-Point of _Yucatan_, to the place where _Mechoacon_ juts against _Guadalajara_ three hundred and sixty Leagues; and in breadth from the Northern parts of _Panucos_, to the Southern Ocean, a hundred and eighty Leagues; besides a great part which lies to the Northward, behind inaccessable Mountains and Wildernesses; inhabited by the _Tepecuaenes_, _Guachucules_, _Cacatequas_, _Tecaxquines_, and others; and was, before the _Spaniards_ Conquer’d and Dismember’d it, much larger than now it is; for as much as it comprehended the whole Province of _New-Gallicia_, and reach’d from the furthest Point of the _Peninsula_ of _Jucatan_ Southward as far as _New-Biscay_, and the Confines of _California_ Northward; containing in length seven hundred Leagues and more, and about half as much in breadth: But since the Conquest by _Hernando Cortez_ and his Followers, the whole Countrey of _New-Gallicia_ is taken from it, and made a distinct Government or _Audiencia_, as the _Spaniards_ call it, of it self.

[Sidenote: The Original.]

The Natives of the Countrey are of the Race of the _Chichimecæ_, a Salvage and Wilde sort of People, of the Province of _New-Gallicia_, especially in the Parts of _New-Biscay_, living in Forests and in deep Caves under Ground; whose Posterity do still at this day much trouble and annoy the Countrey thereabouts; notwithstanding all the endeavors of the _Spaniards_, and the Garrisons which they keep in those parts on purpose to destroy them. About five hundred years ago, or more, according to the account of the _Mexican Annals_, divers Hoards, as they are call’d, of these _Chichimecæ_, weary, it seems, of their Woods and subterraneous dwellings, issu’d out into the more open Air, and fell down in huge multitudes into these Southerly parts of _America_, which are now call’d _Mexico_ and _New-Spain_; not all at once, but at several times, and under several names, _viz._ of the _Suchimilci_, _Chalcæ_, _Tepanecæ_, _Tlascaltecæ_, and others, who subduing or driving out the People they found in those parts, Seated themselves in their room: And though at first every Nation or Company of them, as they came, seiz’d upon some Province apart by themselves, and held it, as it were, in Soveraignty to themselves, without acknowledgement of any dependance or subjection to their Neighbors, or those that were there before them; yet in Tract of time, and by fortune of the Wars, which they made one upon another, they fell under the Government of one King, _viz._ the King of _Mexico_, which was the chief City of the Province.

[Sidenote: The state of the _Mexican_ Kingdom before the _Spaniards_
arrival.]

This Kingdom, at the time that the _Spaniards_ first Discover’d the Countrey, was Govern’d by a Prince, nam’d _Motezuma_; one, who by his Valor and good success in the Wars, had in a few years of his Reign, before the _Spaniards_ came thither, subdu’d the better part of a hundred Cities and great Towns to his Dominion; and held in actual submission to his Government, and Tributary to him, no less than thirty several _Casiques_ or petty Princes; every one of which paid him Tribute, and were able upon occasion to bring into the Field an hundred thousand Men: He is said to have been, for his Person, a wise and good Prince, just, affable, and tender of his Subjects good: but by reason of some heavy exactions, which his own power, and the Practise of his Ancestors before him, gave him the confidence to Impose upon the Conquer’d People, a great part of his Subjects liv’d but unwillingly under his Obedience, and rather by constraint than otherwise: being also further exasperated against him by one barbarous Custom, which the _Mexicans_ frequently us’d, _viz._ the Sacrificing of Men. Their manner was, whensoever they had any solemn occasion of doing Honor to their Devil-god _Vitzilopuchtli_, as they call him, to send out an Army of Men from _Mexico_, into some of the subdu’d Provinces, (in case they had no Enemies nearer Hand) and to fetch in as many Men as they thought good, to be Sacrific’d; whose flesh likewise afterwards they did eat in a solemn Banquet. This being a business of their Satanical Religion, and _Motezuma_ a Prince extremely Superstitious and Devoted to the Service of his gods, it is said, that he Sacrific’d commonly, one year with another, twenty thousand Men, and some years, upon extraordinary occasions, not less than fifty thousand: So great and grievous a Tyranny, by the just Judgement and Permission of Almighty God, for their great and unnatural sins, did the Enemy of Mankind exercise upon them. He was likewise much given to Women, but it was onely to such as were counted his Wives; of which he is said to have had no less than a hundred and fifty with Child by him at one time.

[Sidenote: The bounds of the _Mexican_ Kingdom.]

[Sidenote: Riches of _Mexico_.]

The Bounds of this Kingdom at present are thus; on the East it hath a large Arm of the Sea, which they call _The Bay of New-Spain_, or _The Gulf of Mexico_; On the West, it hath some parts of _New-Gallicia_, and _Mare del Zur_; on the North, the rest of _New-Gallicia_, and part of _Florida_; and on the South, _Mare del Zur_ again, and part of _Guatimala_. It extendeth it self in length from _Jucatan_ South-East, to the Borders of _New Gallicia_ Northward, above eight hundred _Italian_ Miles, and in breadth, from _Panuco_ to the South Sea, about half so much. It lieth wholly under the _Torrid Zone_: nor is it a Countrey generally so mountainous or high seated, as some others of _America_ are but for the most part level or low; yet is it so fann’d, (for three parts at least of four, by the cooling Blasts of the Sea, and the Heats otherwise so moderated with frequent Rains, which it hath constantly three Moneths in the Year, _viz._ _June_, _July_, and _August_) that the Air is rendred thereby exceeding temperate, and the Climate not unhealthful, especially to temperate Bodies, and such as are never so little us’d to it. A goodly Countrey it is, of inexhaustible Wealth and Riches, whether we regard the Mynes of Gold, Silver, Brass, Iron, _&c._ of all which it hath many, and very good; or the Fruits of the Earth, abundance of Cattel, plenty of Corn and Grain, of which they have two Harvests; or any other Commodities and Endowments of Nature, which serve for the enriching of the World. Amongst other things, it affords _Cassia_, the Fruit whereof is a thing well known, and much commended by the Apothecaries for its use in Physick, especially in Purgations, and removing of all Obstructions of Phlegm, Choler, _&c._ Such store of Balm, Amber, all sorts of Gums and precious Liquors, as no Countrey in the World is better furnish’d with excellent Perfumes and Physick, than the Kingdom of _New Spain_.

[Sidenote: _Tunas_-Tree.]

Among the many other sorts of Trees which this Countrey produces, the most remarkable is their _Tunas_, of which, there being five kinds, one is call’d _Cumbeba_, from whence proceeds that admirable Tincture, commonly known by the Name of _Cochinele_, which is thus made: On the top of this Tree is found a Worm, which hath the bigness and shape of a great Louse, which so increases, that in one years time a hundred Trees shall be stock’d from the seed of one of these Animals. The Worm it self being white, after the Skin is carefully pull’d off, put in cold Water or Ashes, and so dry’d, becomes _Cochinele_. The best sort of it is to be had in _Tlascala_, and that in so great a quantity, that no less than five or six hundred _Arrobes_ of _Spanish_ Measure (each _Arrobe_ is as much as five _English_ Bushels) is yearly Transported thence. The other sort, which grows on the Mountains, and that which is not so carefully gather’d, call’d _Chichimecas_, Dyes not so well as the right _Cochinele_. The _Tunas_ also bears a Fruit long and whitish, with a smooth Shell, and full of little Seeds like Figs: The red, which are inferior in taste to the white, colours the Urine red.

[Sidenote: Pine-Apples.]

The Pine-Apples which grow here differ from the _Spanish_, for the Pulp is not inclos’d in a Shell: They have a pleasant smell, and a Pulp, which if eaten much of, causes an Appetite, it being of a tartish taste; they keep good a long time when Salted.

[Sidenote: Fruit _Cacao_.]

But much more beneficial is the _Cacao_, with which Fruit _New Spain_ drives a great Trade; nay, serves for Coin’d Money. When they deliver a Parcel of _Cacao_, they tell them by five, thirty, and a hundred. Their Charity to the Poor never exceeds above one _Cacao_-Nut. The chief reason for which this Fruit is so highly esteem’d, is for the _Chocolate_, which is made of the same, without which the Inhabitants (being so us’d to it) are not able to live, notwithstanding it causes Phlegm and Vomiting to those that are strangers thereto. When the _English_ Commander _Thomas Candish_ coming into the Haven _Guatulco_, burnt two hundred thousand Tun of _Cacao_, it prov’d no small loss to all _New Spain_, the Provinces _Guatimala_ and _Nicaragua_ not producing so much in a whole year. The Trees on which this Fruit grows are divided into four sorts, differing in bigness and shape: all of them are very tender, for they will not onely grow in no place but on their usual Ground, but cannot endure the cold Nights Storms, or excesses of Heat; wherefore the _Cacao_-Trees which grow out of the Fruit that falls off, come to no perfection, except in shady and warm Valleys; which is also the reason why the Planters of _New Spain_ plant the great Leafy Tree _Cacaoquanthly_ (that is, _The Mother of the Cacao_’s) near the _Cacao_-Tree, that it may the better grow under the Shadow thereof; in which manner whole Woods are planted: In the second year it bears Fruit, which is first ripe in _January_, and again in the midst of Summer. Amongst the four sorts the chiefest is _Quathuitl_, of an indifferent heighth, and full of sharp-pointed Leaves, which are fast to the Boughs without Stalks, and bears a great Flower of a yellowish colour, which falling off, leaves long, tough, and hairy Threds behind them, out of which grows the _Cacavently_, a Fruit which is oval, heavy like a Melon, of a Saffron-colour, of a fat and thick Juice, a bitterish, yet pleasant taste, and very cooling; being dry’d in the Sun it is thereby made fit to keep; it is likewise highly esteem’d, because the _Chocolate_ is made of the same. Before the _Spaniards_ made themselves Masters of _Mexico_, no other Drink was esteem’d but that of the _Cacao_; none caring for Wine, notwithstanding the Soil produces Vines every where in great abundance of it self. But besides the _Quathuil_, _New Spain_ hath three other sorts of _Cacao_-Trees, _viz._ _Mecanal_, pleasant to behold for its heighth, large Leaves and Fruit; the next is the _Xochucaual_, which is less than the former; and lastly the least sort, which is call’d _Halcacahual_. The Fruit of these four sorts of Trees, though differing in shape, yet is all one in power and operation.

The _Spaniards_ to make _Chocolate_ mix _Maiz_ (by the _Mexicans_ call’d _Tlaolli_) either whole or Ground, or boyl’d before with Chalk. Moreover, they put the red Kernels also in the Drink, which grow in the Fruit of the _Achiote_-Tree. Of the Kernels, which are dry and cooling, boyl’d in Water, and stirr’d till it comes to a Pap, they make Cakes, which mix’d with the _Chocolate_, gives it a cleansing power, and takes away all tastes that cause vomiting.

The Pepper _Mecaxochite_, which grows creeping along the Earth, with long and fragrant Leaves, round Stalks, hairy Roots, and three long Cods which shoot upwards. This Pepper tempers the over-cooling property of the _Chocolate_. Lastly, it consists also of _Xochinacatlis_, _Tlilxochitle_, and the Rozenish Gum, _Holli_. The _Xocinacatli_ is a Tree with small Leaves, and great Flowers hanging on long Stalks that bend downwards, within of a purple, and without of a dark-green colour, of a sweet smell, and resembling an Ear; and this Flower also gives a pleasant taste and wholsom operation to the _Chocolate_. The _Tlilxochitle_ runs up to the tops of Trees like Ivy; the Flowers, of a darkish brown colour, cleanse the Nerves, strengthen the Brain, and take away the rawness of the Stomach. The _Holli_ drops out of the _Holquabuytle_, a smooth barky Tree full of Moisture, which at first appearance is white, then yellowish, and lastly black, which kneaded into round Balls and Roasted, is a remedy against a Loosness and soreness of the Bowels.

[Sidenote: Nature of the People.]

The Natives of the Countrey are very ingenious in divers mechanical Arts, especially in making of Feather-Pictures, a piece of Curiosity wherein they are held to be incomparably, or rather inimitably excellent; and so industrious at it, that although the _Americans_ generally are not a People over-much addicted to any kind of Labor or Study, yet at this they will sit a whole day together, without either Meat or Drink, onely out of a natural affection they have to the Work, and a desire to be excellent in it; The Countrey indeed affords them great variety of Birds and other Fowl, of most rare and exquisite Colours, which is a great advantage to their Skill, and helps much to the accomplishment of their Work. They Paint likewise very curiously upon their Cottons; and are held to be generally the best Goldsmiths in the World; of most perfect skill in the purging and refining of all sorts of Metals, but especially of Gold and Silver: And yet in other things so strangely stupid and ignorant, that when the _Spaniards_ first appeared amongst them, not a few of them (as ’tis reported) took the Horse and Man both for one Creature; and when the Horse Neighed, they would enquire very seriously what he said.

[Sidenote: Lakes of _New-Spain_.]

There are likewise many fair Lakes in this Province, but the principal are those of _Chapala_ and _Mexico_: the former of which is in the more Northern parts of the Kingdom, towards the Borders of _New Gallicia_, and is chiefly famous for the abundance of good Salt that is yearly made and Transported thence. The other of _Mexico_ is one of the largest and goodliest in the World, of circular form (as some say) little less than nine hundred Miles in compass, environ’d with the main Land, the _Peninsula_, or Cape of _Florida_, _Jucatan_, and the Island _Cuba_, having two onely Passages in and out, and both of them well fortifi’d: the one betwixt the Point of _Jucatan_ and the Isle _Cuba_, where the Tyde violently enters; and the other betwixt the said Island and the Cape of _Florida_, where it goeth as violently out: upon which Gulf the King of _Spain_ hath always some good Ships in readiness for all occasions; and by them, ’tis suppos’d, he doth more assure his Estates in those parts of _America_, than by all the Garrisons besides.

The whole Kingdom of _Mexico_, or _New Spain_, is subdivided into these Inferior Provinces:

[Sidenote: The several Provinces.]

1. The Arch-bishoprick of _Mexico_. 2. The Bishoprick, _Mechoacon_. 3. _Los Angelos_, or _Tlascale_. 4. _Guaxaca._ 5. The Lordship _Panuco_: And 6. the Province _Tabasco_.

_Mexico_, the chief Province of _New-Spain_, so denominated from _Mexico_ the chief City, not only of the Province, but of all _America_; lying between _Tlascale_ and _Mechoacan_, extends in length from North to South, a hundred and seventeen Leagues; and in breadth along the Southern Ocean, seventeen, but up in the Countrey, fifty four Leagues: In which circumference lie to the North-East, _Lateotlalpa_, _Mextitlan_, _Xilotepeque_, and _Panuco_; Westward, _Matalzingo_, and _Cultepeque_; Eastward, _Tuzcoco_; South-East, _Chalco_; Southward, _Suchimilco_, _Tlaluc_, _Coyxca_, and _Acapulco_.

[Sidenote: Bounds of _Mexicana_.]

It is bounded on the East, with the Gulf of _Mexico_; on the West, with _Mechoacan_; on the North, with _Panuco_, and some parts of _New-Gallicia_; and on the South, with _Tlascalla_.

[Sidenote: Nature of the Countrey.]

This Countrey is both large and rich, containing not much less than one hundred and thirty Leagues, both in length and breadth; and if it yields any thing to _Peru_ in the plenty of Gold and Silver, ’tis certain it much excels it in many other Commodities; as namely, in all sorts of Fruits, abundance of Cattel, plenty of Corn and Grain; in all which, the advantage this Countrey hath, not only of _Peru_, but of all the other Provinces of _America_ beside, is well known: Not to speak any thing of the great plenty and variety of good Fish, which both the Rivers and Lakes of this Countrey afford, which is very great; insomuch, that the very Tribute of the one Lake of _Mexico_ is said to yield an Income of above twenty thousand Crowns yearly, one with another.

The People of the Countrey are generally Industrious and Active, especially since the _Spaniards_ came among them; rich Merchants, if they apply themselves to it; and they say likewise good Soldiers, when they are train’d and imploy’d that way.

[Sidenote: Chief Towns of _Mexicana_.]

The chief Towns and places of the Province are, 1. _Mexico_, both anciently and at present, the Metropolis and Capital City; being the Seat of an Archbishop, and the ordinary Residence of the Vice-Roy, and chief Governors of _New-Spain_.

[Sidenote: Description of the City _Mexico_.]

This City, by the _Indians_ was formerly call’d _Tenustatan_, lies in nineteen Degrees and a half to the Northward of the _Equinoctial-Line_, rais’d out of a brackish Lake, full of muddy Water; whose circumference along the Mountains is seventy Leagues: This Lake swarms continually with Boats, which carry the People to and again from one inhabited Island to another; four Stone-bridges, no less costly than artificial, with Arches and Gates in several places, lead from the City to the Main Continent.

The fresh Water which they have in the City _Mexico_, is led into the same through Pipes that lie in the bottom of the Lake; but none are to enjoy the benefit thereof, before they have paid a certain Sum of Money to the King’s Collectors.

Moreover, the City divided into Islands, contains above sixty thousand Houses, which being built on several Isles, have large Bridges, which reach from one to another; some that lie in the middle of the Lake, they approach in little Boats; round about the Lake, especially where the way leads from the Continent into the City, lie several Suburbs, all inclos’d with Walls; between which stand strong Towers, cover’d on the top: To keep off the force of the Water, the _Tenustatans_ have with great labor and charge, made a Bank through the Lake, half way along the City: But the Lake _Laguna_, from whose bottom _Mexico_ is rais’d, is divided in two parts, the _Sweet Lake_, which is higher than the _Salt_, falls in to the same through Sluces, with Bridges built on the Bank that leads from the City to the main Land: The _Salt-Lake_, which hath brackish and bitter Water, ebbs and flows according as the Wind blows; no Fish is able to live in the same, because the Water which in the sight of _Mexico_ falls into the same out of the Mountains, hath a sulphury Ground: All along the shore, much Salt is made, with which the Citizens drive a great Trade: There are continually above a hundred thousand Boats (by the _Indians_ call’d _Acales_, and by the _Spaniards_, _Canoos_) going off and on from one shore to another: The fresh Water Lake, which is bigger than the salt, and feeds small Fishes, hath above fifty Suburbs about the same, of which, some boast five thousand, and others ten thousand Houses: Nay, the Suburb _Tescuco_, in former times was no way inferior to _Mexico_ in bigness; since the _Spaniards_ have been Masters of this City, they stopt up many Moats, to inlarge their narrow Streets.

Besides three publick Markets, every open place affords all sorts of Provisions daily; the _Indians_ call the Markets _Tianguystly_, and the _Spaniards_, _Tianguez_; the first and chiefest stands in _Tatelulco_, adorn’d with Galleries on three sides; in the middle of this Square, which is accounted the biggest in the World, stands next to the place of Execution, a stately Fountain; the Tents which are every Week pitch’d up here for Trade, amount to above thirty thousand. The second Market call’d St. _John_’s, is in _Mexico_, and swarms continually with People. The third is call’d _Hipolito_, from the _Guardian-Saint_ of the City, whither every Wednesday and Thursday comes such a multitude of People, that this spacious Market is too little for them; for the sale of every Commodity, a peculiar corner is allotted; but great Packs are left to be dispos’d of in Boats, which lie near the shore.

At the four corners of the City, at present call’d _St. John_, _St. Maria la Rotonda_, _St. Pablo_, and _St. Sebastian_, are above four thousand _Spanish_ Families, and thirty thousand _Indians_, besides what inhabit _Tatelulco_, now _St. Jago_.

[Sidenote: The Temperature of the Air.]

The Air in this place is very strange; in the day time, the Sky is generally Serene; the North Wind against the Evening brings Rain, of which the Mountain _Tepeaquilla_ lying a little League beyond the City, gives certain Testimonies; for when a black Cloud appears on the top thereof, it is certain to be blown from thence over _Mexico_ with Rain: After a moist Evening follows a Star-light Night, and a pleasant Morning: From _September_ till _May_, it is generally dry Weather here, but if it chances to Rain, the Rain is attended with a Storm, which occasions a sulphurous Fogg, very unwholsom, and so dark, that one Man cannot discern another, and causes a pain through all the Limbs, nay sometimes Death it self; wherefore, whensoe’re it approaches, every one keeps close in his House, or goes into the Countrey.

Moreover, it is worthy of observation, how strangely this City is alter’d since its being Conquer’d by the _Spaniards_, and especially when _Anno 1629._ it was overflow’d by a mighty Deluge; which alteration by _Barnabe Cabo_, in a Letter to the _Jesuite Hernande Leon_, is thus set forth:

[Sidenote: _Barnabe Cabo_, his Description of Mexico.]

[Sidenote: _Mexico_ overflow’d.]