Chapter XXII: Front Matter (22)
These People are exceeding hardy; for, notwithstanding the extraordinary coldness of the Climate, the Men go naked; but the Women wear Garments of pleited Flags or Rushes, which being put about their Middle, hang down to their Ancles; on their Stomachs hang the ends of a hairy Skin ty’d together, which hanging also over their Shoulders, cover their hinder Parts. They shew great Respect and Obedience to their Husbands. Each House is surrounded with an Earthen Wall, and all the Corners thereof being close stopp’d, and Fires made in the midst of them, they are very warm. Rushes and Flags strow’d thick on the Ground near the Walls, serve them in stead of Beds.
The _Indians_ coming a second time to Visit the _English_, brought them Plumes of Feathers, Neckbands of Net-work, and store of Tobacco: _Drake_ pleas’d with this their kindness, built Tents on the Brow of a Hill, on the top of which the _Indians_ stood that brought the Presents, whil’st one of them with a loud voice maintain’d a long Discourse; which he had no sooner ended, but every one laid down his Bowe and Arrows, and walk’d unarm’d down to the Tents to proffer their Gifts: their Wives staying behind on the top, pinch’d their Cheeks, and made sad lamentation; which _Drake_ suppos’d was because they made Offerings there: whereupon he also caus’d all his Men to kneel down and say their Prayers, which made the _Indians_ to look very earnestly upon them, and to return him the Presents which the day before they had receiv’d of him.
[Sidenote: _Drake_’s Entertainment by the King of the Countrey.]
The rumour of these Strangers arrival spreading all over the Countrey, made the Inhabitants far and near desirous to see them; the King himself sending Ambassadors to _Drake_, to inform him that he was on the Way coming to see him; all which the Agents related at large, and desir’d some Presents, as a testimony that their King should be welcome; which he being assur’d of, came with a Retinue of above twelve thousand Men, before whom walk’d one of a Gygantick size, carrying a costly Scepter, on which, by three long Chains made of Bones, hung a great and a small Crown made of Feathers; next follow’d the King himself in a Sute of Cony-Skins; then came a great confus’d company of People, each of them carrying a Present: whereupon _Drake_ putting his Men into good order, march’d to meet the King; at which the Mace-bearer made a long Preamble, and when he had done, Danc’d to the Tune of a Song, which he Sung himself; then the King and his whole Retinue also fell a Singing and Dancing so long, till being weary the King went to _Drake_, and humbly desir’d of him, that he would accept of the Realm, assuring him, that all the People should be under his Obedience; which said, he put the fore-mention’d Crown on his Head, and hanging three double Chains about his Neck, call’d him _Hioh_: whereupon _Drake_ took possession of the Countrey in Queen _Elizabeths_ Name. The King staying alone with _Drake_, his Retinue went amongst the _English_, every one looking very earnestly upon them, and to those whom they lik’d best, being the youngest, they falling down and crying, proffer’d Offerings, as to Gods, and held their Cheeks to draw Blood out of them; which the _English_ refusing, they desisted; but shew’d them great Wounds, and desir’d some Plaisters of them, which they suppli’d them with.
[Sidenote: A Monument erected by _Drake_ before his departure.]
The _English_ going up into the Countrey found the same well grown with Woods, which abounded with Coneys, whose Heads differ’d little from the _European_, but having Feet like Moles, long Tails like Rats, and in their Sides a Bag, wherein when they had fill’d their Bellies they put the remainder. They also saw numerous Herds of Deer, with whose Flesh having been courteously Entertain’d in several Villages, they return’d to the Fleet. _Drake_, just before he weighed Anchor, caus’d a pillar to be set in the Ground with a Silver Plate on the same, with an Inscription, mentioning the Day of his Arrival, Name and Arms of Queen _Elizabeth_, and free delivering of that Realm to him by the _Indians_: he also nail’d a Sixpence with the Queens Effigies on the Plate, under which he caus’d his own Name to be Engraven.
THE
ISLANDS
OF
Northern America.
CHAP. XI.
_Terra Nova_, or _New-found Land_, with the Island of _Assumption_.
Having treated at large of all the several Regions and Provinces of the North part of the Continent of _America_, we come now to those Islands that lie within the same Degrees of Northern Latitude with that part of the Continent: The first is _Terre Neuve_, or _New-found_ Land, discover’d together with several other Parts upon the Continent before mention’d by Sir _Sebastian Cabott_, by the Countenance and Charge of King _Henry_ the Seventh of _England_; whereupon a rightful Claim thereunto, and Interest therein, hath been own’d by the succeeding Kings of _England_, as hereafter shall be more particularly related.
[Sidenote: Situation and Bounds of _New-found Land_.]
_New-found Land_ is situated betwixt the Degrees of forty six and fifty three of Northern Latitude, and is divided from the Continent of _America_ by an Arm of the Sea, in like distance as _England_ is from _France_. The Island is as large as _England_ in length, greater in breadth, and lies near the Course that Ships usually hold in their Return from the _West-Indies_, and is near the mid-way between _Ireland_ and _Virginia_.
[Sidenote: Temperature.]
We shall not much need to commend the wholsom temperature of this Countrey, seeing the greatest part thereof lieth above three Degrees nearer to the South, than any part of _England_ doth, so that even in the Winter it is pleasant and healthful as _England_ is.
[Sidenote: Nature of the Inhabitants.]
The natural Inhabitants of the Countrey, as they are but few in number, so are they something a rude and salvage People, having neither knowledge of God, nor living under any kind of Civil Government. In their Habits, Customs, and Manners, they resemble the _Indians_ of the Continent, from whence it is to be suppos’d they come; they live altogether in the North and West part of the Countrey, which is seldom frequented by the _English_; but the _French_ and _Biscainers_ (who resort thither yearly for the Whale-fishing, and also for the Cod-fish) report them to be an ingenuous and tractable People (being well us’d) and very ready to assist them with great labour and patience, in the killing, cutting, and boyling of Whales, and making the Trayn-Oyl, without expectation of other Reward than a little Bread, or some such small Hire.
[Sidenote: Commodious Harbors.]
It hath the most commodious Harbours in the World, and the most safe Seas to Sail to it, there being not any Islands, Rocks or Sands between the _Lands-End_ in _England_ and _New-found Land_, and for the most part it is not above three or four Weeks Sail thither, and less coming back; and is the most commodiously situated for the discovering of the North-West Passage, and other Inlets into the South Sea; whereby the ordinary Voyages to _China_, _Japan_, and the _East-Indies_, are much eas’d in the expence of Time and Charge; and the most open to Trade to all Parts, of any Island of the _West-Indies_.
On the East side of the Land, are the Bays of _Trinity_ and _Conception_, which stretch themselves towards the South-West.
_Tor-Bay_ and _Capelin-Bay_ lying also on the East, stretch themselves towards the West.
The Bays of _Trespassey_, _St. Mary_, _Borrel_, and _Plaisance_, on the South part of the Land, extend their Arms towards the North.
The great Bay of _St. Peters_ lying on the South-West side of the Land, and Southerly from the great River of _Canada_, being about twenty Leagues distant, the same stretcheth toward the East.
_Trinity_ Harbour lies in near forty nine Degrees of North Latitude, being very commodiously seated to receive Shipping in seasonable Weather, both to Anchor in, and from thence to Sail towards either the East, West, or South. It hath three Arms or Rivers, long and large enough for many hundred Sail of Ships to moare fast at Anchor near a Mile from the Harbours Mouth. Close adjoyning to the Rivers side, and within the Harbour, is much open Land, well stor’d with Grass sufficient, Winter and Summer, to maintain great store of ordinary Cattel, besides Hogs and Goats, if such Beasts were carried thither; and it standeth North most of any Harbor in the Land, where our Nation practiseth Fishing: It is near unto a great Bay lying on the North side of it, call’d _The Bay of Flowers_; to which Place no Ships repair to Fish, in regard of sundry Rocks and Ledges lying even with the Water, and full of danger.
The bottom of the Bay of _Trinity_ lieth within four Leagues through the Land South-West, Southerly from _Trinity_, as by experience is found; and it comes near unto the Bay of _Trespassey_, and the bottom of some other Bays.
_Trespassey_ in like manner is as commodious a Harbour, lying in a more temperate Climate, almost in forty six Degrees of North Latitude, and is both fair and pleasant, and a wholsom Coast free from Rocks and Shelves; so that of all other Harbours it lies the most South of any in the Land, and most conveniently to receive our Shipping, passing to and from _Virginia_ and the _Bermuda_ Islands; and also any other Shipping that shall pass to and from the River of _Canada_, and the Coast thereof, because they usually pass, and so return in the sight of the Land of _Trespassey_, and also for some other purposes, as shall be partly declar’d in the following Discourse.
[Sidenote: Fruitful Soil.]
The Soil of this Countrey in the Valleys and sides of the Mountains is so fruitful, as that in divers places the Summer naturally produceth without Tillage, great plenty of green Pease, and Fitches, fair, round, full, and as wholsom as ours in _England_.
[Sidenote: Berries and Fruits.]
Of Berries and Fruits, there grows Strawberries, red and white, and as fair Raspice-berries and Goose-berries as there be in _England_; as also Bilberries, which are call’d by some _Whortes_, and many other delicate Berries peculiar to the Countrey, in great abundance. Likewise small Pears, Cherries, Filberds, _&c._
[Sidenote: Herbs and Flowers.]
There are also Herbs for Sallets and Broth, as Parsly, Alexander, Sorrel, _&c._ and also Flowers, as the red and white Damask Rose, with other kinds, which are most beautiful and delightful, both to the sight and smell. And questionless, the Countrey is stor’d with many Physical Herbs, though their Vertues are not known.
When Corn was first Sow’n here, it was observ’d to grow very fair, the increase was great, and the Grain very good; and several sorts of Kitchin Plants that have been Set here, have prov’d very well.
[Sidenote: Beasts.]
In divers parts of the Countrey there is great store of Deer, and some Hares, many Foxes, Squerrils, Beavers, Martins and Otters, yielding excellent Furrs, Wolves and Bears, with other sorts of Beasts, serving as well for Necessity, as for Profit and Delight.
[Sidenote: Birds.]
Variety both of Land and Water-Fowl is in this Countrey infinite: The chief Land-Fowl, besides a great number of small Birds, that live by scraping their Food from the Earth in the hardest Winter, are Hawks, great and small Partridges, Thrush, and Thrussels abundance, very fat; as also Filladies, Nightingales, and such like, which sing most pleasantly. There are also Birds that live by prey, as Ravens, Gripes, Crows, _&c._ For Water-Fowl, there is certainly so good, and as much variety, as in any part of the World, as Geese, Ducks, Pigeons, Gulls, Penguins, and many other sorts. These Penguins are as big as Geese, but do not flye, for they have but a little short Wing; and they multiply so infinitely upon a certain flat Island, that men drive them from thence upon a Board into their Boats by hundreds at a time, as if God had made the innocency of so poor a Creature to become such an admirable Instrument for the sustentation of Man: And also Godwits, Curlews, and such like; which Fowl do not onely serve those that Trade thither for Food, but also they are a great furthering to divers Ships Voyages, because the abundance of them is such, that the Fisher-men do bait their Hooks with the quarters of Sea-Fowl on them; and therewith some Ships do yearly take a great part of their Fishing Voyages with such Bait, before they can get others.
[Sidenote: Springs.]
The fresh Waters and Springs of that Countrey are many in number, and withall so very pleasant, delightful and wholsom, that no Countrey in the World hath better: And Fewel for Fireing, no where more plentiful.
[Sidenote: Trees.]
In like manner there is great abundance of Trees fit to be employ’d in other serviceable uses: There are Fir and Spruce-Trees, sound, good, and fit to Mast Ships with, and as commodious for Boards and Buildings as those of _Norway_; and out of these come abundance of Turpentine. Moreover the Pine and Birch-Trees here are scarce to be compar’d for heighth and greatness.
The Rivers also and Harbours are generally stor’d with delicate Fish, as Salmons, Peals, Eels, Herrings, Mackrel, Flounders, Launce, Capelin, Cod, and Trouts, the fairest, fattest and sweetest, that ever were seen in these Parts. The like for Lobsters, Cra-fish, Mussles, and other variety of Shell-fish.
The Seas likewise all along the Coast, do plentifully abound in other sorts of Fish, as Whales, _Spanish_ Mackrel, Dorrel, Pales, Herrings, Hogs, Porposes, Seals, and such like Royal Fish, _&c._
But the chief Commodity of _New found Land_ yet known, and which is grown to be a setled Trade, and that it may be much better’d by an ordinary Plantation there, (if the Traders thither will take some better course than formerly they have done, as shall be declared) is the Cod-fishing upon that Coast, by which our Nation and many other Countreys are enrich’d.
Almost incredible is the benefit of the Fish, which the _French_, _Biscainers_, and _Portuguese_ fetch yearly from this Coast of _New-found Land_, and the _Bank_, which lieth within twenty five Leagues from the South Cape of that Countrey, where the _French_ use to Fish Winter and Summer, usually making two Voyages every year thither. To which Places, and to the Coast of _Canada_, which lieth near unto it, are yearly sent from those Countreys, more than four hundred Sail of Ships.
This Island of _Terra Nova_ belongs properly and justly to the Crown of _England_, having been under the sole Jurisdiction of the _English_ from the first Discovery thereof, which was by Sir _Sebastian Cabot_, Employ’d by King _Henry_ the Seventh, to find out some other part of _America_, than what had been discover’d by _Columbus_, as hath been above declar’d in several places.
Afterwards King _Henry_ the Eighth continu’d the _English_ Interest there, and Employ’d one _Rutt_ into that Island, in order to the Plantation thereof.
Queen _Elizabeth_ no less careful to preserve that Plantation, sent Sir _Humphrey Gilbert_, a _Devonshire_ Knight, to plant a Colony there, the better to secure the same, and to increase Trading there; and accordingly the said Sir _Humphrey_ with two good Ships and a Pinnace in her Name, took possession of that Countrey, in the Harbour of _St. Johns_. He Sail’d from thence towards _Virginia_, and by reason of some unhappy direction in his Course, the greatest Ship he had struck upon Shelves on the Coast of _Canada_, and was there lost, with most part of the Company in her; and he himself, being then in a small Pinnace of twenty Tun, in the company of his Vice-Admiral (Captain _Hays_) returning towards _England_, in a great Storm, was overwhelm’d in the Sea, and so perish’d.
In the Year 1608. it was undertaken anew by _John Guy_, a Merchant of _Bristol_, and with so good success, that the Colony in a short time were well furnish’d with Wheat, Rye, Barley, and other Grain of their own Sowing, with Turnips, Coleworts, and abundance of other necessary things, not without some probable hopes of Metals, a certain and plentiful Trade of Sables, Musk, and other rich Commodities.
[Sidenote: The Province of _Avalon_ in _New-found Land_.]
In the Year 1620. Sir _George Calvert_ Knight, then principal Secretary of State, and a Privy Councellor to King _James_ the First of _England_, &c. purchas’d a part of _New-found Land_, which was afterwards in the Year 1623. granted to him and his Heirs by Patent from the said King, under the Great Seal of _England_, bearing Date the seventh of _April_, in the One and twentieth Year of his Reign: by which means the said Tract of Land was erected into a Province, and at the Instance of the said Sir _George Calvert_, call’d _Avalon_, from _Avalon_ in _Sommerset-shire_, where _Christianity_ was first Planted in England.
This Province lies in the forty seventh Degree of Northern Latitude, and is thus bounded: It begins Southerly from the middle part of a certain Neck of Land or Promontory, situate between the two Harbours, _Fermose_ and _Aquafort_; and from thence following the Shore towards the North unto the middle part, or half way over a little Harbour, call’d in that regard _Petit Port_, or _Petit Harbour_, which boundeth upon the South part of the Plantation of _St. Johns_, including the one half of a certain fresh River, that falleth into the said Port of _Petit Harbour_; and so tending along the South Border of the said Colony of _St. Johns_, extendeth it self to a certain little Bay, commonly call’d _Salmon Cove_, lying on the South side of the Bay of _Conception_, including the one half of the River that falleth into the said _Cove_, as also one half of the _Cove_ it self; from whence passing along the Shore of the said Bay towards the South, and reaching unto the bottom thereof, where it meets with the Lands of the fore-mention’d _John Guy_, nam’d _Sea-Forrest_, is bounded with a certain River or Brook, which there falleth into the Sea, and from the Mouth of the said Brook ascendeth unto the farthest Spring or Head thereof; from thence passing towards the South for six Miles together along the Borders of the said _John Guy_’s Plantation, and there crossing over Westward in a right Line, reacheth unto the Bay of _Placentia_, and the space of one League within the said Bay from the Shore thereof; whence turning again towards the South, passeth along the Harbour of _Placentia_, with the like distance from the Shore, and descending unto _New Falkland_ towards the North and West part thereof, stretcheth it self in a right Line Eastward, continuing the whole Southerly length upon the Bounds of the said _New Falkland_, unto the middle part or Point of the Promontory, or Neck of Land before mention’d, between the Ports _Fermose_ and _Aquafort_; at which place is describ’d and finish’d the Perambulation of the whole Precinct, whose Extent may be thus computed, commencing from the Promontory between the Ports _Fermose_ and _Aquafort_, which is fifty or sixty Miles from South to North distant from _Petit Harbour_; from whence crossing Westward to the Bay of _Placentia_, is judg’d to be sixty Miles more or upwards, from East to West.
And thereby was also granted to the said Sir _George Calvert_ and his Heirs, all Islands and Islets, within ten Leagues of the Eastern Shore of the said Region towards the East, together with the Fishing of all sorts of Fish, saving unto the _English_ free liberty of Fishing, as well in the Seas as in the Ports and Creeks of the Province aforesaid, and the Priviledges of salting and drying their Fish upon the Shores of the said Province, as heretofore they reasonably us’d and enjoy’d the same, so as they do no injury or notable loss or detriment unto the Lord Proprietary, his Heirs and Assigns, or to the Inhabitants of the said Province, in the Ports, Creeks, and Shores aforesaid, and especially in the Woods growing within the said Province.
And by the said Patent all Royal Jurisdictions and Prerogatives, both Military and Civil, within the said Province and Islands thereunto belonging, were farther granted to the said Sir _George Calvert_ and his Heirs, and he and they thereby created the true and absolute Lords and Proprietaries of the said Province, saving the Allegiance due to His Majesty, His Heirs and Successors, to be held of them in _Capite_, yielding and paying unto them therefore a white Horse, when, and as often as any of them shall come into the said Province, and the fifth part of all Gold and Silver Oar which should be found there.
Sir _George Calvert_, before the obtaining of this Patent, had caus’d a fair House and Fort to be built in the said Province, at a place call’d _Ferryland_, and in the Year 1624. having obtain’d a Dismission from his Employment of Secretary of State, and being then created Lord _Baltemore_ of _Baltemore_ in _Ireland_, he did in the Year 1627. Transport himself to _Avalon_, to inspect his Concerns there in Person; from whence returning the same year, he Embarqu’d himself again, together with his Lady and all his Family, except his eldest Son, for _Avalon_ the year following; at which time (there being then War between _England_ and _France_) he redeem’d above twenty Sail of _English_ Ships, which had been taken there that year by _French_ Men of War, whereof one Monsieur _De la Rade_ had the chief Command, and shortly after took six _French_ Fishing-Ships upon that Coast, and sent them the same year, with a great many _French_-men Prisoners, into _England_. Coming thence, he left a Deputy there, and continu’d the Plantation till his Death, which was in _April 1632._ After whose Decease it descended of right to his Son and Heir _Cecil_, now Lord _Baltemore_; who thereupon sent one Captain _William Hill_ as his Deputy thither, to take possession thereof, and to manage his Interest there for him. Captain _Hill_, according to his Commission, shortly after repair’d thither, and liv’d some years at the Lord _Baltemore_’s House at _Ferryland_ above mention’d.
In the thirteenth Year of King _Charles_ the First, of _England_, &c. about the Year of our Lord 1638. Marquess _Hamilton_, Earl of _Pembroke_, Sir _David Kirk_, and others, under pretence that the Lord _Baltemore_ had deserted that Plantation, obtain’d a Patent of all _New-found Land_, wherein _Avalon_ was included, and shortly after dispossess’d the Lord _Baltemore_ of his Mansion House in _Ferryland_, and other Rights there, and during the late Rebellion in _England_ kept possession; but His now Majesty King _Charles_ the Second, immediately after his most happy Restauration in the Year 1660, upon the now Lord _Baltemore_’s Petition, thought fit to refer the whole Matter to be Examin’d by Sir _Orlando Bridgeman_, then Lord-Chief-Justice, now Lord Keeper of the Great Seal of _England_, and others, to report the true state thereof to His Majesty, together with their Opinions thereupon: The Referrees accordingly, upon full hearing of Council on both sides, certifi’d, That they conceiv’d the said Patent to Sir _George Calvert_, to be a good Patent, in force, and not avoided by the later to Sir _David Kirk_ and others; and that the Title and Interest to the said Province did therefore belong to the Lord _Baltemore_. Whereupon His Majesty, on the twentieth of _March_ in the same Year, Order’d the Possession thereof to be re-deliver’d to his Lordship, which was accordingly executed: Since which time his Lordship has peaceably enjoy’d the possession thereof, and continues the Plantation to this day, by deputing Lieutenants there from time to time, for the better Government of that Province, the rest of _New-found Land_ remaining still to the aforesaid Proprietors, claiming by the Patent of 13 _Car._ 1.
The Commodities that are either by Art or Nature produc’d there, are the same with those of the remainder of _New-found Land_. The Winter there is extream cold, the Summer very hot, but withal pleasant; and during that Season there is great plenty of Pasture for Cattel.
The Coast of this Province is very safe, and as well furnish’d with variety of bold and pleasant Harbors, as any other part of _New-found Land_; where the _English_ likewise Fish for Cod, the lesser sort whereof is call’d _Poor-John_, which is there caught in great abundance, especially at _Ferryland_, and in the _Bay of Bulls_. Besides these two there are divers other excellent Harbors on the Eastern Shore of _Avalon_, as _Capling Bay_, _Cape Broyle_, _Brittus_, _Isle of Spears_, _Barrom Cove_, _Whitburns Bay_, and _Petit Harbour_ above mention’d. On the West are the Bay of _Placentia_, and several other good Harbors.
There are no _Indians_ in _Avalon_, and but few _English_, by reason of the excessive Cold in Winter, though Sir _David Kirk_ and his Lady, and also his Family, liv’d in the Lord _Baltemore_’s House at _Ferryland_ for the space of ten years and upwards.
The Soil seems to promise great store of Mines, which probably may in time be discover’d. The late Lord _Baltemore_ took accidentally a piece of Oar up that lay there upon the surface of the Earth, and brought it with him into _England_, which was found upon trial to yield a greater proportion of Silver, than the Oar of _Potosi_ in the _West-Indies_, but hitherto no Mine of it hath been discover’d there.
The Trade of Fishing being of so great concernment to the Nation of _England_, the same (if it be well manag’d in this Island of _Terra Nova_) will employ every year above two hundred Sail of _English_ Ships, and ten thousand Mariners, besides the great benefit which may accrue unto the Nation by Imposition upon Strangers there, which would amount to several thousands of Pounds _per Annum_; with which those Coasts may be Guarded, and Ships Trading thither secur’d: besides the great Customs by the Ships call’d _The Sacks_ (being commonly in great numbers every year) who carry Fish from _New-found Land_ into the _Straights_, _France_, _Portugal_, and _Spain_, and who bring their Returns into _England_, as Bullion, and all other native Commodities of those Countreys.
If the Island were well fortifi’d, we might Command all those of other Nations that come to Fish in _New-found Land_, to pay Contribution in Fish or otherwise, for their Priviledge to Fish there, the said Island being first Planted by _English_, and pertaining to the Kingdom of _England_; or if occasion should require, they might be utterly debarr’d of Fishing there.
The Trade of Fishing is of so great concernment to _France_, _Spain_, _Portugal_, the _Straights_, and other Parts, that they cannot well be without that yearly Supply in Fish which comes from that Island: Neither can the _Hollanders_, _Spaniards_, or _Portuguese_, well set any Ships to the _West-Indies_, without _New-found Land_ Fish, there being none that will endure to pass the Line sound and untainted, but the Fish of that Countrey, salted and dry’d there. And so long as the Act continues still in force, That no Fish be Transported from the said Island, but in _English_ Bottoms, it will contribute very much to our encrease of Shipping there, and by consequence, of the employment of Mariners; and the Fishing of that part of the Island will be solely appropriated to the _English_ Nation, to whom of right it belongs, which will prove the greatest Ballance of Trade in that part of the World; and that whereas above two hundred Sail do Trade thither yearly to Fish, if a thousand Sail come, if there be but Fisher-men enow, they may all have Fraughtage there.
The _French_, if once the Island be fortifi’d, will be depriv’d of their Nursery of Mariners, this being the onely place, besides _Canada_, and one or two adjacent Coasts, where they come for supply of Fish, with which that Nation cannot be furnish’d so well from other Parts.
By well Planting and Fortifying _New-found Land_, the Trading to _Virginia_, _New England_, and those Parts, would be much encourag’d, _New England_ having had of late great Traffick with _New-found Land_, where they vend the Growth of their Plantation. Besides, _New-found Land_ is a Key to the Gulf of _Canada_, which if the _English_ had again in their possession, as they had in the Years 1628. and 1632. they might give a Law to all foreign Kings and People interested in any of the parts of _America_, and a Protection to all the _English_ Plantations upon that Continent, whereby great security, comfort and profit would arise to the Nation and People of it: whereas on the contrary, if the _French_, _Spanish_, or _Dutch_, should possess themselves of the said Plantation, they would not onely deprive this Nation of all the Advantages aforesaid, but would also derive to themselves so great a Power to prejudice all the Plantations of the Coasts of _America_ belonging to this Nation, that the Inconveniences thereof are scarce to be imagin’d or express’d.
After the granting of the Patent aforesaid of 13 _Car._ 1. Sir _David Kirk_’s great Pains there, and constant Endeavours, were beyond expectation bless’d with a continuance and preservation of Trade in that Place; in the carrying on of which, he had always a special regard to the real Advantage of this Kingdom, and the particular Service of His Majesty.
[Sidenote: The wonderful Bank of _Terra Nova_.]
[Sidenote: _The Baccaloos._]
Before this Island, right over against _Cape Ray_, at the distance of twenty four Leagues or more, there lieth an huge Bank or Ridge of Land, extending it self in length out of the Sea, above a hundred Leagues, but in breadth not above four or five and twenty, when it is broadest, and in other parts much less, sharpning towards each end into a _Conus_, or narrow Point. It is accounted one of the Wonders of the Sea, which round about, at some distance, is very deep, and hardly to be sounded, especially betwixt the _Bank_ (for so they commonly call it) and _Cape Ray_, but drawing nearer, it grows by degrees more and more shallow, insomuch that nigh the Land there is not much more Water than is necessary for the Ships to Ride in. It runneth out in length, as was said, from North to South, from forty one Degrees of Latitude to fifty two; and round about it there lie scatter’d a multitude of lesser Islands, which Sir _Sebastian Cabot_, when he first discover’d the Place, call’d by one common Name _Los Baccaloos_, or _The Islands of Cod-fish_, from the great quantity of that sort of Fish he there found; which was such, that they hindred the passage of his Ships, and lay in such multitudes upon the Coasts, that the very Bears would come and catch them in their Claws, and draw them to Land.
[Sidenote: The Isle of _Assumption_.]
In the Gulf of _St. Laurence_, towards the Mouth of the River _Canada_, is another less considerable Island, said to have been first discover’d by _Quartier_, and by him call’d _The Island of Assumption_; by _John Alphonso_, _The Island of Ascension_; by the Natives, _Natistcotec_: It extends it self from the forty eighth to the fiftieth Degree, between the South-East and North-West.
_Quartier_ makes mention of a strange kinde of Fish, found in the River of _Canada_, like unto a Sea-Hog, but having the Head of a Hare, it is call’d by the Natives _Adhothuys_.
Not far from this is a little Island, call’d by the _French_, _Isle de Sable_, or _The Sandy Island_; and another on the West of _Terra Nova_, call’d _Isle de Bretons_, or _The Island of St. Laurence_, besides several little scatter’d Islands in the Gulf of _St. Laurence_, as _Menego_, and _The Three Islands of Birds_; in which are found a kind of amphibious Animal, call’d by the _French_, _Cualrus_, and by the _Russians_, _Morsh_; somewhat like a Sea-Calf, but more monstrous.
CHAP. XII.
The Bermudas, or Summer-Islands.
[Sidenote: Situation of the _Bermudas_.]
The _Bermudas_, or _Summer-Islands_ (probably so term’d as to the first Appellation from certain black Hogs, by the _Spaniards_ call’d _Bermudas_, which from a Ship bound with them to some other parts of the _West-Indies_, and cast away upon that Coast, swam ashore, and there increased; or, as others say, from _John Bermudes_, a _Spaniard_, who is said to have been the first Discoverer; or, as to the second, from one _George Summers_, an _English_-man, who there suffer’d shipwrack) are situated in thirty two Degrees and twenty five Minutes of Northern Latitude about sixteen hundred Leagues from _England_, twelve hundred from _Madera_, four hundred from _Hispaniola_, and three hundred from the nearest Coast of _Virginia_. The first that endeavour’d to settle Plantations here was a _Spaniard_ nam’d _Hernando Camelo_, being design’d Conductor in this Expedition: And this Undertaking was so much the more eagerly prosecuted, upon consideration that the Plate-Fleet Sailing from _Havana_ through the _Straights_ of _Bahama_, might here have a convenient Harbour; but those who were invited to become Adventurers, with proffers of great Advantage, shewing themselves very slack in the Business, and _Charles_ the Fifth being at that time intangled in War and other troublesom Affairs, the Design came to nothing, and for above sixty years after no farther Attempt was made by any for the Planting of these Islands, till at last the _French_ made a Voyage thither under Captain _Barboriere_, but by Shipwrack were frustrated of their hopes; nor made they any more Preparations in this Design. In which nevertheless the _English_ were not so easily discourag’d, for first Captain _Gosnol_ and _Smith_ set forth, at the Charges of Mr. _Edward Wingfield_; next, Captain _Nelson_; then successively _West_, _Gates_, _Argal_, and _Wyat_, but all with little or no success, till at length in the Year 1612. a Company was establish’d in _London_ by the King’s Letters Patents, who sent one Mr. _Richard Moor_ with sixty Men to the _Bermudas_, where he spent three years in fortifying those Islands: but that which put a little stop to this good beginning, was a kind of Misfortune that hapned; for the Rats which were gotten ashore from a Shipwrack increas’d so exceedingly, that they devour’d all the Plants in the Field, and the Provision in the Houses, insomuch that a great Famine proceeded from thence, all means to destroy the Vermine being in vain; till at last Providence sent a Disease amongst them, which kill’d them all in a very short time. Mean while _Moor_ went on in the fortification of the Island, and was ere long supply’d with fresh People. Mr. _Barlet_ was sent over with sixty Men, and carried from thence with him eighty Pound of Ambergreece. And soon after three Ships more, _viz._ the _Blessing_, the _Star_, and the _Margaret_, convey’d thither four hundred and ten, Men and Women. As soon as _Moor_ was call’d away, _Daniel Tuckard_ coming from _Virginia_ to succeed him, bestirr’d himself very much, Planting all places full of Trees fetch’d from the _West-Indian_ Islands; as also Tobacco, with which he fraighted a Ship to _London_. Moreover, the Countrey was divided into Acres, that every Planter might have an equal share, and know his own Lands. _Anno 1619._ _Tuckard_ was succceded by _Nathaniel Butler_, who in four Ships brought thither five hundred Men and Women, to supply the first Plantation, which was much decay’d since the Rats had devour’d their Provisions, so that it was little look’d after by the Company in _London_: But now they built a Church and erected a Court of Judicature, and all things were order’d conveniently for the publick good. After which many Noble Persons set Sail thither in the _Magazine_ Frigat; and the Planters being now fifteen hundred in number, inhabited twenty Leagues of Land in length.
[Sidenote: Forts built upon the _Bermudas_.]
On the longest Island, call’d _St. George_, (for the _Bermudas_ consists of several Islands, great and small) they built _Warwick_ and _Dover_ Forts, with other Fortifications and Towers, which had their Denominations from those Noble-men and Gentlemen that were Undertakers in this Plantation, as _Cavendish_, _Paget_, _Herbert_, &c. from the Earl of _Devonshire_, the Lord _Paget_, the Earl of _Pembroke_ and others.
[Sidenote: Ports and Havens.]
Amongst the Havens the eminentest are, _Southampton_, the Inlet _Harrington_, and the _Great Sound_.
All these Islands lying together resemble a Half-Moon, and are surrounded with Rocks, which appear at Low-water, and at High lie but shallow; for it seldom Ebbs or Flows above five Foot. The Shore, for the most part Rocky, and hardned by the Sun and Wind, receives no damage by the Waves which continually beat against the same.
[Sidenote: Nature of the Soil.]
The Ground it self differs; for in some places it is sandy or clayie, and in others partly black, and partly white, or Ash-colour’d Earth; which last is accounted the worst, and the black the best. Three Foot deep under the Ash-colour’d Earth lie great Slates, and under the black, a white spungie Stone, like the Pumice, in whose moist Crevises Trees take root.
The Pits or Wells, though they Ebb and Flow with the Sea, yet produce a wholsom and sweet Water.
[Sidenote: Temperature of the Air.]
The Skie is generally serene, but when over-cast with Clouds, is subject to Lightning and Thunder; yet the Air is of a good temper, being neither exceeding cold, nor excessive hot: for which reason the _European_ Fruits grow better there than in their natural Soil.
Their Harvest is twice a year; for that which they Sowe in _March_, is ripe and gather’d in _June_; then what they Sowe again in _August_, they gather in _January_.
[Sidenote: Productions of the Countrey.]
These Islands breed no hurtful Creatures; nay, the yellow Spider which spins silken Cobwebs, is free from Poyson.
The Plant _Nuchtly_, which bears speckled Pears, grows betwixt the Rocks which are drench’d with Sea-water.
The Hogs which above a hundred and fifty years since swam ashore out of the _Spanish_ Wrack, are exceedingly increas’d there, but because of their poorness are scarce eatable, they feeding onely on the sweet Berries which fall from the _Palmito_-Trees.
About the white and red Mulberries, which grow plentifully there, breed thousands of Silk-worms, which spin Silk according to the colour of the Mulberries.
The Sea produces some quantity of Pearls and Ambergreece.
From the beginning of the year till _May_, the Whales are seen to swim not far from the Shore.
A strange sort of Sea-Fowl breed in Holes like Rabbets; and amongst other Birds, here are also store of Cranes.
The Tobacco which the _English_ have planted here grows very well.
[Sidenote: Tortoises Laying of Eggs.]
Here are likewise great Tortoises, which Lay their Eggs in the Sand on the Shore, where they are Hatch’d by the Beams of the Sun, and are taken after this manner: In the Night some are set to watch where they Land, and whilest they are digging a deep Hole in the Ground, are thrown on their Backs, and not being able to get upon their Legs again, they lie and groan very pitifully: some of them having above two Basons full of Eggs in their Bellies; which being about the bigness of a Tennis-Ball, have a thin Shell, which incloseth a Yolk and White. If these Eggs lie buried six years, then the young Tortoises breaking the Shell, come out of the Sand, and instantly creep into the Sea. Their Flesh is not onely wholsom but toothsom. The Oyl made of them is not inferior to Butter.
[Sidenote: Cedars of an excellent kind.]
Moreover, the _Bermudas_ produce Cedars, the like of which are not to be found in the whole World: The Leaves are douny and prickly at the ends, almost like those of the Juniper Tree: The Wood hath a sweet smell, and the Berries, which are like the Myrtle, of a pale Red, inclose four white Kernels; the outermost Skin whereof is sweet; the innermost, which covers the Kernel, sharp, and the Pulp tartish: The Trees are always flourishing, being at the same time full of Blossoms, green, and ripe Fruit: The Berries, when grown ripe, begin to gape, and fall off in rainy Weather, leaving a round Stalk on the Boughs, which loses not its Rind till two years after; half which time the Berry requires, before it attains to its perfect ripeness, which generally happens in the Winter: The Boughs shoot straight upwards, and become in time so heavy, that they cause the Body of the Tree to bend. This most excellent Wood grows in divers places of the _Bermudas_.
We shall conclude with the resolute Exploit of five Sea-men, _Anno 1616._ who, to the great admiration of all People, set Sail from thence in an open Vessel of three Tun through the main Ocean, and after having suffer’d terrible Tempests, arriv’d in the space of seven Weeks safe in _Ireland_.
These Islands are remarkable for divers sorts of Plants, unknown in other Parts, as the _Prickle Pear_, _Poyson Weed_, _Red Weed_, _Purging Bean_, _Costive Tree_, _Red Pepper_, and the _Sea Feather_. Also several strange Birds, as the _Egg Bird_, _Cahow_, _Tropick Bird_, and the _Pemlico_, which presageth Storms.
CHAP. XIII.
Hispaniola.
The Islands call’d _De Barlovento_, by which are understood _Hispaniola_, _Cuba_, _Jamaica_, and _Boriquen_, as also the _Lucaies_, with the _Caribes_, and lastly the Isles call’d _De Sotavento_, viz. _Margareta_, _Cabagua_, and _Tabago_, are by some comprehended all under the general Name of _The Isles Antilles_; though others reckon the _Antilles_ to be the same with the _Caribes_ onely. But leaving this Controversie undecided, we shall begin with the Isles _De Barlovento_, the chief whereof is _Hispaniola_.
[Sidenote: Bounds and Description of _Hispaniola_.]
_Hispaniola_, or _Little Spain_ (as _Columbus_ nam’d it) is, though not the largest, yet the fairest and goodliest of all the _American_ Islands, call’d by the Natives anciently _Hayti_ and _Quisqueia_: It lieth about fifteen Leagues Westward of _Porto Rico_, and distant from the main Land of _America_ about one hundred and twenty; ’tis of a triangular form, the sharpest Point whereof is that towards _Porto Rico_, which they call _Cabo de Enganno_: that towards the West inclines to a Semi-circle, containing a good and convenient Bay betwixt the two Points, _viz._ _St. Nicholas_ to the North, and _Cabo de Donna Maria_ towards the South. It is not thought to be less than a hundred and fifty Leagues in length, and in breadth from threescore to thirty, and to contain in the compass of the whole, four hundred Leagues at least, lying betwixt eighteen and twenty Degrees of Northern Latitude, having an Air somewhat infested with the Morning Heats, but well cool’d again in the Afternoon, by a constant Wind from the Sea, which they call there _Virason_. It is, for the fertility of the Soil, one of the richest and most flourishing Countreys in the World; the Trees and all things else there continually clad, as it were, in their Summer Livery, the Meadows and Pastures always green, and of such an excellent Herbage, that Cattel both breed and thrive there beyond belief; both great Cattel and small, as Kine, Sheep, Hogs, _&c._ brought thither out of _Spain_, having multiply’d to such numbers, that they live wild now in Herds in several places, and are both hunted and kill’d, like Stags or other Venison, onely for their Hides, which they send yearly into _Spain_ and other parts of _Europe_, as a great Merchandize and Commodity of huge profit to them.
Wild Hogs also have been formerly seen to feed in the Woods in great multitudes, but the Dogs since they were brought over hither, have made great havock amongst them.
[Sidenote: Beasts peculiar to _Hispaniola_.]
The Animals peculiar to this Island are 1. A little Beast call’d _Hutias_, not much unlike our Coneys. 2. _Chemi_, almost of the same form, but a little bigger. 3. _Mohui_, A Beast somewhat less than the _Hutias_. 4. A Beast call’d _Coxi_.
[Sidenote: The Fly _Cuyero_.]
Likewise amongst other strange sorts of Creatures here, the _Cuyero_ is very observable, being about an Inch big, and having four Wings, of which two are larger than the other: when they flie they shine after such a manner, that in the Night they make a Room as light as day, insomuch that some have made use of them in stead of Candles to Read by.
[Sidenote: The Fish _Manate_.]
No less wonderful is the Fish _Manate_, whose shape hath been describ’d elsewhere: It breeds for the most part in the Sea, yet sometimes swimming up the Rivers, comes ashore and eats Grass. The Casique _Caramatexi_ kept one in the Lake _Guaynato_, which was so tame, that when call’d by the Name _Maton_, it us’d to come out of the Water, and go directly to the _Casique_’s House, where being fed, it return’d to the Lake, accompanied with Men and Boys, who with their Singing seem’d to delight the Fish, which sometimes carried ten Children on its Back over the Water; but at last a _Spaniard_ striking at it with a Pike, it would never come forth again when it espy’d a Cloth’d Man: It liv’d twenty six years in the fore-mention’d Lake, till by accident the River _Hayboaic_ over-flowing into the said Lake, the Fish return’d to the Sea.
[Sidenote: The Fish _Abacatuaia_.]
Besides this great Fish, here is also a sort of small Fish, call’d _Abacatuaia_, with a little Mouth, black Eyes encompass’d with Silver-colour’d Circles, four black Fins, two long ones under its Belly, one on the Back, and one on each side of the Head, the Tail slit and cover’d with a glittering Skin: It is as big as a Flounder, and not ill Meat, but thick and round.
[Sidenote: The Insect _Nigua_.]
When the _Spaniards_ first setled on _Hispaniola_, they were exceedingly tormented with a sort of leaping Insects call’d _Nigua_, which us’d to eat through their Skin into the Flesh in such a nature, that many of them lost their Arms and Legs; but at last they found out a Remedy against this Evil, _viz._ the searing the Wounds with hot Irons.
[Sidenote: Fruits.]
Besides the aforesaid plenty of Flesh, they have many excellent Fruits all the year long, as Banana’s, Pine-Apples, Custud-Apples, Plantens, Papans, Musk-melons, Water-melons, and many other peculiar Plants, as 1. the _Auzuba_, a fair large Tree, the Fruit whereof is call’d _Pinnas_, resembling a _Malecotoon_: Of this Tree there are three sorts, _Jaima_, _Boniama_, and _Jaiqua_; 2. _Quauconex_; 3. _Axi_; of which there are also several sorts, as _Carive_, _Huarahuac_, _Axiblanco_, _Acafran-Axi_, and _Axi-Coral_; 4. _Yuca_, the Root of which serves in stead of Corn; 5. Certain Trees call’d _Guaibes_, besides plenty of Mint and Potato’s.
[Sidenote: The Provinces of this Island.]
The Island of _Hispaniola_ was formerly divided into several Provinces, amongst which the Mountainous Countrey _Hyguey_ lies towards the Isle of _Porto Rico_. On the Mountains, which are flat on the top, are great variety of sharp-pointed Stones. The Soil is a sort of colour’d Earth, which produces all sorts of Fruit, especially the Root _Casabi_, and Melons.
_Hyguey_ also conterminates with _Ycayagua_; Northward lies _Samana_; Southward, _Yaquimo_, where there is store of _Brasile_ Wood: And between the City _Domingo_ and _Yaquimo_, is the Countrey _Baoruco_, which with its Mountains extends sixty Leagues in length, and above twenty in breadth, without any Water, Pasture, or Food for Cattel or Mankind.
Next follows the Countrey _Xaragua_, lying at the great Inlet which divides _Hispaniola_; for one side extends to the Promontory of _St. Nicholas_, and the other to the Point _Tiburon_. This Countrey produces abundance of Cotton.
Lastly, the Provinces _Guahaba_, _Haniguagya_ and _Cahay_, are very eminent; as also _Cibao_, which is full of Gold-Mines; and _Lavega Real_, with _Magnana_, which lie between the two great Rivers _Neyba_ and _Yagui_; the stony Countrey _Ciguayos_, and the low Coast _Darica_, where _Christopher Columbus_ built the City _Navidad_, which he afterwards deserted.
Ginger was formerly brought hither from the _East-Indies_, but now grows here in such great abundance, that above two and twenty thousand _Kintalls_ are yearly Transported from thence to _Spain_.
With as good success grow here also the Sugar-Canes and _Maiz_.
_Peter Martyr_, a Councellor to the Emperor _Charles_ the Fifth, relates, That _Hispaniola_ produc’d in his time, besides Silver, Copper, and Iron, five hundred thousand _Ducats_ in Gold: Nevertheless the rich Mines lay undisturb’d, because they wanted People to work in them, insomuch that had they not planted their Royal Seat in _Domingo_, the Island had long since been deserted, notwithstanding the exceeding fruitfulness of the Soil, because the _Spaniards_ exercis’d their Cruelty in such a nature, that of sixty thousand Inhabitants from the Year 1508. to _Anno 1514._ scarce fourteen thousand of them were left alive; all which is affirm’d by the Bishop _De las Casas_. Nay, the fore-mention’d _Peter Martyr_ relates, That the Men wearied with working in the Mines, kill’d themselves, despairing of ever being releas’d from their Slavery; and Women with Child destroy’d the Infants in their Wombs, that they might not bear Slaves for the _Spaniards_. He adds hereunto, That of a hundred and twenty thousand Persons, few were left in a short time.
[Sidenote: The Gaiety of the antient _Casiques_.]
These Provinces in former times had each of them their _Casique_, whose splendor consisted chiefly in Dancing to his Devotion, with a Girdle full of Bells about his Middle, a String of Pearls about his Arms, a Covering over his Privities, and a Plume of Feathers on his Head, with a Drummer before him, and a small Train of Arm’d Men after him.
[Sidenote: Ports and Havens.]
On the Coast are first the Point of _Nisao_, ten Leagues to the West of _Santo Domingo_.
Eighteen Leagues farther is the Port _Ocoa_, which is a Bay where the Fleets of _Nova Hispania_ take refreshing, when they do not Anchor in the Nook of _Sepesepin_, which is near unto it, or in another call’d _The Fair Haven_, two Leagues before you come to _Ocoa_.
Twenty Leagues beyond _Ocoa_ is the Port of _Asua_.
Thirty Leagues more Westwardly is a large Point right against the Island of _Bola_, which lieth five Leagues from the Coast.
The most Westerly Point is call’d _Cape Tiburon_: It hath an Island three Leagues from it Westward, call’d _Caprio_; and Sailing along the Coast, you will see an Island call’d _Camito_, and farther in the Nook of _Yaguana_ another call’d _Guanabo_ of eight Leagues long.
On the North side of the Island, the most Westerly Cape and Port is _St. Nicholas_, from whence North-East and by East, lieth the Island of _Tortuga_, near the Coast of _Hispaniola_: It is of five Leagues length.
Farther along the Coast is _Monte Christo_, the West Cape of _Natividad_; to the East of which there is a great Bay call’d _Port Real_.
This Island is so full of Harbours, that he that will Coast it, cannot well miss of one where he pleaseth, most of which afford fresh Meat and good Water.
Moreover, _Hispaniola_ hath many brave Rivers, the chiefest of which are _Hayna_; _Nizao_, along whose Shore the first Sugar-Canes were planted; _Neyba_, a great River; _Yaquimo_; _Yaqui_, which _Columbus_ call’d _Rio de Oro_, because the Ground thereof glitter’d like Gold; and lastly, the Rivers _Nicayagua_, amongst whose Sands is Gold; _Nigua_, which borrows its Denomination from the fore-mention’d leaping Insect; the swift Stream _Juno_, whose Banks are crown’d with handsom Houses; and _Jaquin_, which hath many Salt-pans.
The Rivers _Itabo_, _Ocoa_, _Cepi_, _Bia_, _Cazui_, _Sanate de Plata_, and _Chiabon_, have some one, others more Sugar-Mills upon them.
But the chiefest River is _Ozama_, broad, and so deep, that the biggest Vessel may lie close by the Shore; and also washes _St. Domingo_.
[Sidenote: Description of the City of _St. Domingo_.]
This City, the Metropolis of all the Isles round about, was built by _Bartholomeus Columbus_, and was peopled _Anno 1494._ after which it flourish’d eight years, when, a terrible Storm blowing the same down to the Ground, _Nicholas Olanda_ remov’d it to the Western Shore of _Ozama_, that the _Spaniards_, who had for the most part setled towards the West, might not be necessitated to Ferry over: but the first place stood much more conveniently, being not onely provided of a Fountain of sweet Water, but also freed of those unwholsom Vapours which daily rise with the Sun at this new-built City. To prevent the inconvenience of crossing to the foremention’d Fountain, of which the Inhabitants found themselves oftentimes in great want, _Olanda_ went about to lead the neighboring River _Hayna_ into the _Ozama_, but the Design not being prosecuted, bereav’d _Domingo_ of the onely thing which would have made it able to stand in competition with any City in the World; for it lies on a Plain, the South side whereof is wash’d by the Sea; the East side, by the River; on the North and West are many delightful Fields.
The City, which in a manner is built square, is divided into long straight Streets, full of fair Houses after the _Spanish_ manner: in the middle thereof is a square Market-place, with a handsom Church, the Yard whereof is encompass’d with a high Wall, which upon occasion would serve for a place of great Defence.
The Collectors of the King of _Spain_’s Revenue dwell in stately Palaces; and the _Dominicans_, _Franciscans_, and Monks _De la Merced_, have brave Cloysters, besides two more for the Nuns.
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America: Being the Latest, and Most Accurate Description of the Nevv VVorldChapter XXII: Front Matter (22)
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