Chapter XXXIII: Front Matter (33)
_Los Charcas_ is the farthest Countrey Southward of the Kingdom of _Peru_, reaching up as far as _Chile_, with which on the South it is border’d, having on the North, _Lima_ and _Collao_; on the West, _Mare del Zur_; and on the East, some Countreys not yet well discover’d, which lie betwixt it and the Province of _Paraguay_, or _De la Plata_. The Countrey is said to be in length about a hundred and fifty Leagues, measuring it directly, or in a right Line from North to South; but measuring it about along the Sea-Coast, much about two hundred: It is not very rich either in Corn or Cattel, although in some parts it wanteth not good Pasturage; but of unparalell’d Wealth, in respect of the Mines of Gold and Silver which are here digg’d, the principal whereof are those of _Potosi_ and _Parco_.
The Mountains hereabouts are inhabited by the _Cavinas_, who dwell in Stone Houses. Their Neighbors the _Canches_ are a subtile, good natur’d, and painful People, breed many Sheep, sowe Corn, and catch plenty of Fish out of the Rivers. Next comes in view the cold Countrey _Conas_. On the right side towards the Southern Ocean, the great Wilderness _Parinacocha_ extends it self a vast way; the Mountains round about are continually cover’d with Snow, and the Dales have many deep Moors.
[Sidenote: Principal Towns and Places of note.]
Chief Towns and Places of note in this part of _Peru_ are, 1. _Plata_, otherwise call’d _Chuquisaca_, the Countrey whose Metropolis it is, situate under a temperate Climate, in a fruitful Soil for the production of all manner of Plants, and especially Wheat, Barley, and Grapes. In this City the High Court of Judicature of _Los Charcas_ is kept, being a principal part of _Peru_, and inhabited by the richest _Spaniards_ in the whole Kingdom, having gotten an incredible deal of Treasure out of the neighboring Silver-Mines, which from the time of the _Ingas_, or Kings of _Peru_, to its Discovery by the _Spaniards_, held out and continu’d so rich, that ’tis thought _Pizarro_, if Reason could have rul’d him, might here onely have rais’d himself a Rent of two hundred thousand Ducats _per Annum_; but his desire and hopes, first to find more at _Potosi_, and afterwards his ambition and greediness to have and command all, carried him to violent Courses, which proved his Ruine, as hath been said. The Town is conveniently seated in a fruitful Soil, honor’d with the Residence of the Governor of the Province, and with a Bishops See, said to be the richest of _Peru_, _viz._ of fourscore thousand Ducats _per Annum_. The Cathedral and divers Cloysters give also a great lustre to the City. The antient Inhabitants of this Countrey, especially about those parts where now this City stands, were the _Charcas_ and _Charanques_, both valiant People, who by Command of the _Ingas_ fetch’d invaluable Treasures out of the neighboring Mines of _Porco_, where a thousand Men were continually kept at work. In _La Plata_ were reckon’d long since, besides _Spaniards_, above sixty thousand _Peruvians_ which pay annual Tribute.
2. _Oropesa_, a place of good Metal, as a man may perceive by the Name; It lieth in the rich and pleasant Valley _Cochobamba_, twenty Leagues distant from _La Plata_.
3. _Potosi_, eighteen Leagues Westward from _La Plata_, by the _Spaniards_ call’d _The Imperial City_, built at the Foot of a Mountain bearing the same Denomination, on a barren Soil under a cold Climate, though but twenty one Degrees to the Southward of the _Equinoctial Line_: the Cold proceeds from the high Lands, which lie bare to the bleak and sharp Winds call’d _Tomohavi_, which blow every year very fiercely from _May_ till _September_. But though the barren Countrey produces no Fruit, yet no place in _Peru_ hath greater plenty of all Provisions and Dainties than this, the Markets being always full of Fruit, Salt-Meat, _Maiz_, _Papas_, Wheat, Sugar, Sweet-meats, and all things that are requisite for the subsistence of Man-kind, which are brought thither from all parts for the Silver, which is there in such plenty. As to what concerns the famous Mountain _Potosi_ in the Countrey of _Charcas_, it is of an Ash colour, and rises above the adjacent Mountains in the form of a Sugar-Loaf; on the top of it stands a Chappel, to which leads a craggy Path, which with a little care may be rid up with a Horse; the heighth thereof is a thousand six hundred and twenty four Rods, or a quarter of a League: at the Foot thereof appears the Mine call’d _Guaina Potosi_, that is, The _young Potosi_; near which the City _Potosi_ stands, being two Leagues in circumference, and is adorn’d with a Church and Cloyster for the _Dominicans_, and exceedingly resorted to by Traders.
In the time when the _Ingas_ Govern’d _Peru_, the Silver-Mines at _Porco_ were very famous; but it was not till after the arrival of the _Spaniards_ that Silver was found in _Guaina Potosi_, and by degrees the Silver Veins which lay hid in the great _Potosi_; the manner of which Discovery was as followeth:
[Sidenote: The occasion of the first Discovery of the Mines in
_Potosi_.]
A _Peruvian_ call’d _Gualpa_, who work’d in the Mines at _Porco_, going a Hunting, it chanc’d that the Game ran up the steep Mountain of _Potosi_, which prevented his pursuing of it any farther; but the Mountain being overgrown with Trees, he got hold from one Bough to another to help himself up, and at last taking hold of the Bramble call’d _Quinua_, he pull’d the same out of the Ground, and finding it heavy, look’d upon it, and espy’d a great lump of Silver hanging at the Root of it; whereupon viewing the Hole, he discover’d a rich Silver Vein; of which taking some pieces home, and melting them, he found that it was the best Silver that ever he had known; wherefore he privately got a greater quantity, and by degrees grew extraordinary rich: but though he carried his Design never so close, yet he was at last suspected, and especially by his Neighbor _Guanca_, born in the Valley _Xauxa_, who was the more jealous of him, because he sold greater Bars of Silver than any were cast at _Porco_; whereupon he resolv’d to speak to him, and getting out the Secret, it came to this Agreement between them, That they should both be Partners and share the Booty; _Gualpa_ was to keep the Vein, since call’d _The Rich Vein_, and _Guanca_ was to have another, at present nam’d _Diego Centeno_: but they agreed not long; for _Guanca_ finding much labor upon his Vein, by reason of the hardness, and that he could get no share in what _Gualpa_ got, acquainted his _Spanish_ Master _Vilaroel_ with it, who rested not till he had found out the truth thereof; for which _Vilaroel_ obtain’d (according to the Custom of _Porco_) several Rods to work for himself, onely paying the King one fifth part of what he got, and so remain’d Owner of the Mine _Centeno_.
[Sidenote: The Mine _Potosi_, when discover’d.]
This Discovery of the rich Mine _Potosi_ is said to have hapned on the twenty fourth of _April_, _Anno 1545._ Soon after which they found the Silver Vein _Del Estanno_, which though it was very rich, was difficult to be digg’d, because of its hardness. The first Vein which _Gualpa_ search’d after stood upright from the bottom of the Mine, and contain’d above three hundred Foot in length, and thirteen in breadth, and continuing good for two hundred Foot in depth, after which the Silver begins to lessen.
The _Peruvians_ relate, That the _Ingas_ first began to dig in _Potosi_, but gave it over because the Workmen heard a terrible Voice, saying, _Leave off doing what you are about; the Treasures which lie hid here, are reserv’d for a People out of foreign Countreys_.
These Mines produce yearly for the King’s fifth part, forty thousand Pieces of Silver, each valu’d at thirteen _Ryals_, each _Ryal_ being four Shillings, besides what he is defrauded of, which is perhaps half as much more.
The Mines of _Potosi_ exceed all other, because the Diggers never meet with any Water, notwithstanding they work above two hundred Fathom under Ground, whereas the other Silver Mines suffer great damage by the Water; which was also the reason why the _Spaniards_ left off digging of Silver in _Porco_, because they were not onely forc’d to cut through hard Rocks, but ran greater danger, or at least bestow’d extraordinary labor to get out the Water which broke in upon them.
[Sidenote: Four Silver Veins, with their several Divisions.]
The four Silver Veins of _Potosi_, _viz._ _The Rich_, _Centeno_, _Del Estanno_, and _Mendieta_, lie on the East-side of the Mountain, and extend North and South. The great Veins produce lesser, not unlike the Body of a Tree, from which shoot forth several degrees of Boughs. Each Vein is divided into several parts, possess’d by several Owners; the least part is open’d four Rods, and the biggest eighty; for none are permitted by the Law to open a bigger Hole. In the time of the Jesuit _Joseph de Acosta_, an Eye-witness, who _Anno 1587._ went from _Peru_ to _Spain_, the _Rich Vein_ was reckon’d to contain eighty seven Mines, of which some were digg’d two hundred Fathom deep. The _Spaniards_ judge that at the Root of the _Rich Vein_ is an incredible Treasure, though Experience hath hitherto taught us, that the Silver lessens in price and quantity the deeper they dig in the Ground.
[Sidenote: The _Socabonos_ or Trenches, with the manner of Mining.]
For the more easie working in the Mines, the _Spaniards_ have digg’d Trenches (which they call _Socabonos_) at the Foot of the Mountain towards the West, cross through the Mountain to the Mine, each of them being eight Foot broad and a Fathom deep, and lock’d up with Gates, through which the Silver is carried out, whereof the Owner of the _Socabon_ receives a fifth part. The _Socabon_ which leads to the _Rich Vein_, was begun _Anno 1556._ and finish’d in twenty nine years, extends it self two hundred and fifty Rods in length. The Miners work by Candle-light both Day and Night by turns; those that work in the Day, sleep in the Night, and those that work in the Night, sleep in the Day. The Oar, which is as hard as a Stone, is cut out with Pick-axes, beaten in pieces with an Iron Crow, and carried upon their Backs on Ladders made of Leather: Each Ladder hath three Fastnings about the thickness of a Cable, stretch’d out by Sticks, so that one goes up on one side, whilest another comes down on the other. Each Ladder being ten Fathom long, is pitch’d upon its several Floor on which the Laborers rest before they go up higher, for they make divers Floors according to the depth of the Mine. The Laborers carry the Oar in Bags fastned before on their Breasts, and falling back over their Shoulders three and three together, the foremost whereof ties a lighted Candle to his Thumb, and thus they help themselves with both Hands. It is a wonderful thing to consider, how the _Peruvians_ are able to scramble up and down continually a hundred and fifty Fathom: But besides many other Inconveniences, the Mines often fall in, or at least great pieces, which bury all the Diggers. The Mines also, being excessive cold, occasion to those that are not us’d to them, a _Vertigo_ in the Head, and Vomiting. The Silver runs for the most part between two Rocks, as it were, in a long Channel, of which one side is as hard as Flint, and the other much softer. This Silver is of different value; the best, call’d _Cacilla_ or _Tacana_, resembles Amber in colour; the worser sort is blackish, and sometimes of an Ash-colour. The pieces of Oar are carry’d on the Backs of the Sheep _Pacos_ to the Mill, where being ground to Powder, they are put into Furnaces to melt; of which there were once above six thousand on the top of _Potosi_; but since the Quicksilver was found to cleanse the same, not a third part remains pure.
In former times the Mines at _Porco_, two Leagues from the little Lake _Aulagas_, produc’d those vast Treasures gather’d by the _Ingas_, which afterwards for the most part fell into the _Spaniards_ Hands.
[Sidenote: Port-Towns, Rivers, and Havens of _Los Charcas_.]
As concerning the Sea-Coast of _Los Charcas_, it lies as followeth: Southerly from the River _Tambopalla_ puts forth a three-pointed Rock into the Ocean, and makes the Haven _De Ylo_, into which falls a fresh River. Next follow the round Hill _Morro de los Diabolos_, and the Inlet before the Town _Arica_, secur’d from all except a Westerly Wind, where the Silver that comes from _Potosi_ is Shipp’d for _Lima_. Since the _English_ Admiral Sir _Francis Drake_ took three Barks out of this Inlet it is fortifi’d with a Castle, which is stor’d with Brass Guns.
Nine Leagues Southward the _Pissaqua_ falls into the Ocean; and next you come to the little Village _Hicahic_, situate on a high and barren Tract of Land; as also the Haven _Terrapaca_, which by an Inland is made very secure.
Not far from hence appears the Foot of _Piqua_, where the Coast begins to rise very high; the Head of _Tacama_, the Stream _Lottoya_, otherwise call’d _De Loa_, whose Banks are inhabited by poor People; the River _Montelo_, the Promontory _Morro Moreno_, beyond whose utmost Point opens a Bay, secur’d from all Winds by an Island. The Inhabitants here feed on raw Fish.
Next the River _Claru_ comes in view, which is taken for a Boundary between _Peru_ and _Chili_.
Eastward up into the Countrey you come to _Santa Cruiz_, built at the Foot of a Mountain in a Plain near a Brook, which rushing forth from a Rock glides through the City to a Lake full of delicious Fish. The Houses of Stone, are cover’d with Palm-Tree Leaves; and besides the Church there is also a Cloyster, inhabited by the Monks _De la Merced_. In former times the _Peruvian_ Houses were built of Clay, and were often destroy’d by their Neighbors the _Cheriguanacs_ and _Titanes_, who made Feasts with as many as they took of them. The People about this Place are meek and poor spirited, and speak besides four Languages, the _Diagnitan_ Tongue, common amongst all of them. Before the Arrival of the _Spaniards_ they went Cloth’d in Ostritches Feathers, but since taught to weave Cotton, they now make their Apparel of the same, and upon the account of Barter, drive a great Trade in it: They Dye their Cotton with the boyl’d Roots and Leaves of a little Tree.
Eastward beyond _Santa Cruiz_ lies the Countrey _Paicanos_, eminent for the great _Calabashes_ which grow there, exceeding good to keep both wet and dry Meats in.
The Countrey receives a vicissitude of excessive Cold and intolerable Heat; the hard Winters taking beginning in _May_, and continuing till the beginning of _August_. In the middle of our Summer a South-wind blows seven Weeks together here, to the great prejudice of all Plants, which are during that time often wash’d away by continual Rains. About _Christmas_ they Sowe, and gather in their Harvest in _March_. During the rainy Season the Ways cannot be travell’d, being all overflow’d by the Rivers; neither doth the _Palm-Wood_, which is four days Journey in length, permit any access to the said City _Santa Cruiz_, because the conflux of Waters makes it a Moor all over; besides which, the Tygers, Bears, and Serpents, make the Ways dangerous, especially at that time.
Through this Countrey the _Spanish_ Captain _Nusco de Chavas_ travell’d, when he discover’d the _Taguamacis_, a numerous People, which dwell along the great River _De la Plata_.
The Countrey about _Santa Cruiz_ produces all manner of Fruit, but few Trees, because of the want of Rain; but Corn, _Maiz_, Wine, _Granadillas_, _Luiumas_, and _Tucumay_, as also the Plant _Hachalindi_, in the _Latine_ Tongue call’d _Mirabile Peruanum_, grow here in great abundance; which last shoots up to the bigness of a pretty large Body, full of Juice, and of a yellowish colour, out of which shoot knotty Boughs, and about each Knot two Leaves resembling the Herb _Nightshade_; the Flowers which hang at the ends of the Boughs are long, and pleasant to the Eye, by reason of their mixture of Purple, White, and Yellow, and also of a sweet smell. It is a strange Secret in Nature, that this Flower opens at Midnight, if any Light come near the same: The Root also is accounted an effectual Medicine against the Dropsie.
SECT. VII.
Collao.
[Sidenote: Situation and Description of _Collao_.]
_Collao_ lieth Southward of those Countries, which go under the general Name of the Province of _Cusco_, having on the West, _Lima_; on the South, _Charcas_; but Eastward, and to the North-East, it is shut up by a Ridge of Mountains, running in one Body or continu’d Tract from the Confines of _Collao_, as far as the City of _Cusco_, where they divide. The Countrey is generally plain, commodiously water’d in all Parts with fresh Rivers, and consequently affording rich Pasturage and good Herds of Cattel.
[Sidenote: Chief Towns and Places of note.]
The chief Towns and Places of note are, 1. _Chuquinga_, a great Town, and held to be naturally almost impregnable, as being environ’d round about either with deep unfordable Waters, or with Mountains unpassable, and having one onely Cawsey leading to it, reported to be for two or three Leagues together no broader than to permit one single Person to march conveniently upon it.
2. The City _Pucara_, which was formerly well inhabited, but at present nothing remains of it, except the ruin’d Walls of great Houses, and large Images of Stone.
3. _Ayavire_, by the _Spaniards_ call’d _Las Sepulturas_, being a Place especially enobled by the stately Monuments of the _Peruvian_ Nobility which were found there.
4. _Hatuncolla_, the Metropolis or chief Town of this Province, seated upon the Banks of the River _Caravaya_, whose Streams are very much fam’d for Gold.
The River _Caravaya_, which glides from the _Andes_ Eastward to the City _Juan del Oro_, produces much fine Gold, but not without the loss of many People, which are kill’d by the unwholsom Air and Damps that arise here.
[Sidenote: The Lake _Titicaca_.]
The Lake _Titicaca_, which washes the Countrey _Collao_ on the North, the Province of _Omasuy_ on the East, _Chaquito_ on the West, and _Chuquiabo_ on the South, is one of the greatest Lakes of _America_, being eighty Leagues in circumference, and in several places as many Fathom deep; wherefore it is exceeding rough in windy Weather. Into this Lake ten great Rivers discharge their Waters, which run away again through a narrow, but very deep Channel, in which the Stream runs so strong, that no Boats are able to abide in it.
5. _Chinquita_, a Colony of _Spaniards_ upon the Banks of _Titicaca_, having many small Islands in it of a good and fruitful Soil, abounding in Fish and variety of Sea-Fowl; it is suppos’d to be fourscore Leagues distant likewise from the South Sea, having onely one _Estuary_ or Mouth, which is something strait, but of such a deep Water and violent Stream, that (as _Acosta_ testifieth of it) it is not possible to build a Bridge of Stone or Timber over it; but the Natives in stead thereof have laid a Bridge of Straw upon it, which serves as well, _viz._ so many great Bundles of Straw, Sedge, or such like matter, well and surely made up and fastned together, as will reach from one side or Bank of the _Estuary_ to another; at which likewise having made them sure, they cast some good quantity of more Straw and Sedge upon them, and have a Bridge very convenient, upon which they both securely pass themselves, and also drive Cattel, and do other necessary Business. The Water is neither bitter nor brackish, yet is not drinkable because of its muddiness. Several Islands that lie in the Lake serv’d formerly for Store-houses of the chiefest Goods, which the People thereabouts living near the High-way would not trust in their Villages.
[Sidenote: The Plant _Totara_.]
Here grows a certain Broom-Plant call’d _Totara_, good for many uses, and is also wholsom Food both for Man and Beast; moreover, they cover their Houses with the same, burn it on their Hearths, and make Boats. The _Uros_, a salvage People, made Floats of _Totara_, which they ty’d together, and built Villages on the same, which drove to and again, according as the Wind blew.
The Lake also breeds abundance of Fish, and especially two sorts, _viz._ _Suches_, which are very pleasing to the Palate, but unwholsom; and the _Bogas_, which though less, and full of Bones, are a much better Food. There likewise breed plenty of Fowls about the same, especially wild Geese and Ducks.
When the _Peruvians_ intend to Entertain any Person, they go to catching of Fowls (by them call’d _Chaco_) after this manner: They make a Circle with the Floats nam’d _Balsas_, and Rowing close to one another, take up the inclos’d Fowl with their Hands.
Moreover, the fore-mention’d Channel, through which the Lake _Titicaca_ discharges its Water, ends in a little Lake call’d _Aulagas_, likewise full of desolate Isles, but hath no visible place into which to empty its Water, therefore it must needs, according to the course of Nature, fall under Ground, where it commixes with a Stream whose original is unknown, though it be seen to fall into the South Sea.
The Town is a Place of extraordinary Wealth and Trading, and so considerable, that the Governor thereof is always nam’d by the King of _Spain_ himself, and his Place estimated at fifty thousand Ducats _per Annum_.
6. _Tiaguanaco_, at the _Estuary_, or Mouth of the Lake, memorable onely for the Ruines of certain great and stupendious Buildings which antiently have stood there, some of the Stones whereof are said to have been of thirty Foot length apiece, fifteen Foot broad, and six or seven Foot thick. There were likewise found the Statues of certain Men excellently Carv’d and Wrought, of a Gigantick stature or bigness, and likewise veiled in foreign and strange Habits, not at all us’d, nor ever known to have been us’d by the _Peruvians_ themselves, or by any other of the Natives of _America_.
7. _Nuestra Sennora de la Paz_, or _Our Lady of Peace_, otherwise call’d _Pueblo Nuevo_: It is but a small Town, yet pleasantly seated upon the Banks of a River in a fair and fruitful Plain, full of Springs, Fruit-Trees, _Savanas_, and Fields of _Maiz_, having Mountains on either side: It lieth almost in the middle of the Province _Chuquinabo_, fourteen Leagues distant from _Cusco_, and as many from _Potosi_. The Province _Chuquinabo_ it self (which in the _Peruvian_ Tongue signifies _Inheritance of Gold_) hath many rich Gold-Mines, good Salt-pits, and a temperate Climate, except from the beginning of _December_ till _March_, in which time the continual Rains cause Feavers and Agues. The Inhabitants being very poor People, us’d to go naked in the Summer Season.
8. _Copavana_, two and twenty Leagues beyond _Lopoz_: It is onely inhabited by _Peruvians_; amongst whom an Image of the Virgin _Mary_, long since erected there, hath been ever in great veneration, especially by reason of a Tradition of a great Miracle there perform’d: for the _Spaniards_ affirm, That _Johannes Anachoreta_ going a Journey of several Weeks from home, plac’d a lighted Candle before the Image, which during the time of his absence did not at all diminish.
[Sidenote: A strange Earthquake at _Angoanga_.]
An Accident which fell out in this Countrey is very remarkable, _viz._ The Ground of an old Village call’d _Angoanga_, then inhabited by eminent Necromancers, began on a sudden to swell, and the Earth to run like a broken Wave two Leagues, overwhelming the Houses in Sand, and filling up a neighboring Lake.
[Sidenote: The like in _Herefordshire_ in _England_.]
Eight years before this terrible Earthquake here, there hapned in the County of _Hereford_ in _England_ almost the same kind of prodigious Motion: for not far from the Town _Ledborough_, arose _Marcely Hill_ to an exceeding heighth, and moving along bury’d all whate’re it met with, after which manner it continu’d for the space of three days, to the great terror of all that beheld it.
9. _Chilane_; 10. _Acos_; 11. _Pomata_, and some others, all of them good Towns, but not so considerable as those other.
[Sidenote: Roads and High-ways made by the _Ingas_.]
Concerning the Roads or High-ways, it may well be said, That none of the seven Wonders of the World can compare with any one of them; neither was the Way that _Appius Claudius_ made from _Rome_ to _Brundusium_, upon the repairing of which the Emperors _Julius_ and _Augustus_ spent great sums of Money, fit to stand in competition with the Roads made by the _Ingas_ in _Peru_: for who cannot but admire at the consideration of so many Valleys fill’d with Mountains, the hardest Rocks cut asunder, Moors damm’d up, great Stone Bridges laid over swift gliding Streams, and through vast Wildernesses a Way made of twenty Foot broad, inclos’d in high Walls, extending from _Quito_ to _Chilo_, a thousand Leagues, and at the end of every ten Leagues brave Houses or Magazines, stor’d with Bowes, Arrows, Halberds, Axes, Clubs, Clothes, and Provision for twenty or thirty thousand Men. Some relate, that _Guainacava_, when he return’d Victor from the conquer’d Countrey _Quito_, suffer’d great Inconveniences on the pathless Mountains, and thereupon Commanded his Subjects to make the fore-mention’d Way. But it is more probable, that this Master-piece was not the work of one _Inga_, especially since besides the Way from _Chili_ to _Quito_ there leads another through the Mountains over the Plains from _Cusco_ to _Quito_, forty Foot broad, and five hundred Leagues long, inclos’d within two Walls.
[Sidenote: The manner of the _Peruvian_ Registers.]
The _Peruvians_ relate from the testimony of the _Quipos_, much more concerning these High-Ways, and other Buildings on them, made by _Guainacava_. These _Quipos_ are Rowls of divers colour’d Strings, full of all manner of Knots, which serve in stead of Characters to keep their Chronicles; in which were employ’d the _Quipo-Camayos_, who being in the nature of our Secretaries, Registred all Transactions, performing the same with the several Strings and Buttons, with which they gave Obligations, Discharges, and the like: but besides the _Quipos_ they also us’d Rings full of little Stones for the same purpose; and knew with _Maiz_-Seed how to cast up an Account as well as the best Arithmetician with Figures.
Their Account of Time hung on the twelve Pillars _Succanga_, erected on a Mountain beyond _Cusco_ by the Inga _Pachacuma_, that is, _The Regulator of the Year_, to shew the Course of the Sun, and according to that their appointed Feast-days, times of Sowing and Harvest: Their Year begins in _December_.
[Sidenote: The present State of _Peru_ under the _Spanish_ Government.]
The _Spanish_ Government in the Kingdom of _Peru_ is setled at present in great tranquility and splendor. The Vice-Roy, who keeps a splendid Court in _Lima_, otherwise call’d _Los Reyos_, Commands over _Chili_ and _Terra Firma_, and never comes abroad without a Guard of forty Halberdeers: when he travels by Land he is accompanied by the Arch-bishop, and guarded by his forty Halberdeers, a hundred Pike-men, and fifty Musquetteers. His Reign is generally not above six or eight years, during which time he receives forty thousand Ducats _per Annum_ out of the King’s Exchequer.
[Sidenote: The present flourishing Condition of the City _Los Reyos_.]
The City _Los Reyos_ hath been of late years very much enlarg’d and brought to a most flourishing Condition, being exceeding populous, and extending four Miles in length, and half as much in breadth: In the biggest Market-place is the City Hall and the Exchange, where all things are brought to be sold. Of the other three Markets, two have their Denominations from _St. Anne_ and _St. Jacob_; the fourth is call’d _El Santo de los Cavallos_, because nothing but Mules, Asses, and Horses are sold there. The chief Church is Consecrated to _St. John_ the Evangelist; the other Three to _Marcellus_, _Sebastian_, and _Anna_. The _Franciscans_ inhabit three Cloysters; the _Dominicans_, _Augustines_, and Monks _De la Merced_, each of them two, besides two costly Structures for the _Jesuits_. Other Orders have also five Cloysters here, _viz._ the _Creation_, _Conception_, the _Holy Trinity_, _St. Joseph_, and _St. Clara_; the three first have each of them a Church built hard by the several Cloysters, Dedicated to the _Santas Virgines del Montserratto_, _Del Prado_, and _De Loretto_. Each Cloyster contains above two hundred and fifty either Monks or Nuns. Here are also four large Hospitals, the chiefest whereof call’d _Andrias_, hath seldom less than four hundred Sick, which are kept and cur’d on Charity. The second is for _Peruvians_ onely, call’d _The Hospital of St. Anna_. The third, built in honor of the Apostle _St. Peter_, is for poor old Clergy-men. The fourth, nam’d _The House of Love_, is for sick Women. Besides these there stands another Structure near the Walls of the City, Consecrated to _Lazarus_, where those that have the Leprosie are cur’d. The House call’d _The Holy-Ghost_, receives all sick and wounded Sea-men. The King maintains twenty four Students at his own Charge in the Royal Colledge, and the Arch-bishop as many in the Colledge call’d _St. Toronius_; but in the Colledge of _St. Martin_ reside above six hundred, which are brought up in all manner of Arts and Sciences. Two hundred Students are also taught in the high School, where they chuse a new Governor every year. Here also is kept the King’s Treasure, and the Court of Inquisition. The River which washes the City Walls runs so exceeding swift, that not long since it carried away a new Stone Bridge with nine great Arches.
[Sidenote: Miracles reported to have been done by _Ramirez_.]
The _Dominican_ Monks were the first that Landed on _Peru_, the first which came thither with _Francisco Pizarro_ being _Vincent de Valle Verde_, who was follow’d by _Sancio Martino_, _Martino de Esquivele_, _Dominico de Sancto Thoma_, _Pedro Ulloa_, _Alphonso de Montenegro_, _Reynaldo Pedraza_, and many others, who were stirr’d up by the report of the _Peruvian_ Riches; amongst whom were four _Franciscans_, viz. _Pedro Portuguese_, _Jodoco de los Angelos_, _De la Cruiz_, and _De Sant Anna_, who were soon after follow’d by twelve Monks of the _Augustine_ Order. _Anno 1552._ Landed also at _Los Reyos_, Colonel _Andreas Salazar_, accompanied with _Antonio Lozano_, _Juan de Sancto Petro_, _Hieronymo Melendez_, _Didaco Palamino_, _Pedro de Espeda_, _Andreas Ortega_, _Juan Canto_, _Juan Chamorro_, _Francisco de Treyas_, _Juan Ramirez_, and _Balthazar Melgarego_. _Salazar_ soon after his Arrival sent the Priest _Juan Ramirez_, and _Balthazar Melganego_ to _Guamachuco_, where he Baptiz’d and Instructed the Inhabitants in great numbers. Afterwards travelling to _Moyabamba_, he got a great esteem amongst those Idolaters, and (as it goes for currant amongst them) wrought many Miracles, amongst which this is reported for one: He being inform’d by an old _Peruvian_, that his Daughter nam’d _Curi_ had hid several Idols; enquiring after it, he tax’d her with what her Father had told him; which she denying, and being rebuk’d by _Ramirez_, is said to have become immediately dumb, to have foam’d at the Mouth, at last falling down dead like a second _Saphira_ in the presence of many, which caus’d many to forsake their Idolatry. But the Necromancers endeavor’d by all means possible to raise a disesteem on _Ramirez_, and with the assistance of their Master the Devil, so wrought their Inchantments, that the Tygers came in great Herds out of the Wildernesses to _Moyabamba_, and devour’d not onely Men, Women and Children in the Highways, but also tore them out of their Houses, yet did not the least hurt to any _Spaniard_; whereupon _Ramirez_ valiantly went with a Company of his Proselytes to a Herd of Tygers, which when he approached held the Cross to them, which it seems so affrighted the Devil-Tygers, that they climb’d up the Trees. They farther relate (if you will believe them) to make the Miracle the greater, That _Ramirez_ call’d to the Multitude, saying, _Go and revenge the Deaths of your devour’d Parents, Children and Relations_; whereupon he throwing a Stone, and all the rest following his Example, the Tygers leap’d out of the Trees, stood still, and suffer’d themselves to be kill’d like Lambs. Six years after the fore-mention’d twelve _Augustine_ Monks follow’d eleven others, who set Sail out of the _Spanish_ Haven _St. Lucar_, and arriving at _Peru_ went to the Village _Tauca_, where they broke the Image of the Goddess _Huarella_, being as it were the _Peruvian Venus_, or Patroness of amorous Delights, reported to have given Responses from the Wood in which she was worshipp’d. They also destroy’d the Idol _Chanca_ in the Countrey _Conchucos_, which being worshipp’d by the _Indians_ in the shape of a Man, had yearly a fair Maid, aged fourteen years, given to him in Marriage, a solemn Wedding being kept, and several Sheep kill’d.
[Sidenote: The Miracle of an _Augustine_ Monk.]
The _Augustine_ Monks are believ’d to have wrought also another Miracle in the Province _Conchucos_, upon this occasion: A Conjurer call’d _Chaumango_, boasted himself to be _God_, deny’d our _Saviour_, in testimony whereof he gave out that he would kick a Mountain to pieces, with his Foot; which Report spreading all over the Countrey, all the adjacent People flock’d to see this strange Wonder on an appointed Day, on which _Charimango_ being, it seems, as good as his word, and kicking the Mountain, caus’d it to rent from the top to the bottom, and the pieces to flie all about the People, who were exceedingly amaz’d; but the Sorcerer upon the _Augustine_ Monk’s rebuking him was (as they affirm) immediately eaten up with Worms.
Many other Stories of Miracles go currant amongst them, as of _Marco Garcia_ and _Didaco Ortez_ driving the Devil from a white Stone which hung over a Fountain in _Chiquipalpa_, and several others, but it would be very impertinent to dwell too long upon Discourses of this nature, especially since we are not oblig’d to make them a part of our Creed.
To conclude our Description of this famous Kingdom of _Peru_, the People thereof at the _Spaniards_ first Arrival viewing their Shipping, their Guns, and other Accoutrements, unknown to them before, had them in great admiration, as Men descended from Heaven; but when they began to be oppress’d by their Tyranny, and to be tortur’d by them, they look’d upon them as the Spawn of Hell, and curs’d the Sea that had brought so wicked a People to them.
CHAP. V.
Chile.
[Sidenote: Situation and Description of _Chile_.]
Following the Coast of _Mare del Zur_, or the South Sea, the next great Province pertaining formerly to the Kingdom of _Peru_, is that of _Chile_. This is the most Southerly Province of the whole Countrey of _America_, reaching up as far as the _Magellane_ Straights, with which to the Southward it is bounded; Northward it hath a Desart, and an undiscover’d Countrey lying betwixt it and the Confines of _Peru_, call’d _Atacama_; on the West it hath _Mare del Zur_; and on the East, up to _Rio de la Plata_, the _Atlantick_, or North Sea, with some Countreys undiscover’d, which interpose betwixt it and _Paraguay_ to the North-East: It lieth all of it beyond the _Tropick_ of _Capricorn_, in a temperate _Zone_, and extendeth it self in length from the Borders of _Peru_, to the Mouth of the _Straights_ five hundred Leagues or more; but the breadth of it neither equal nor certain: They say ’tis call’d _Chile_ from the word _Chil_, which signifies _Cold_ it seems in their Language as well as ours, it being generally a cold and bleak Countrey, the Air in many parts of it so extreamly sharp and piercing, that both Horse and Rider sometimes in travelling are frozen to death, as the _Spaniards_ found by experience in their first Search and Discovery of the Countrey, under the Conduct of _Diego Almagro_, who is said to have left the greatest part of his Men dead behind him: But this is chiefly towards the _Andes_, and on the Sea-Coast, the more Inland parts of it, though mountainous also in some parts, yet are more temperate, and being also well water’d with Rivers, are much more fruitfull than the other, affording both Wheat and _Maiz_, and likewise other Grain, excellent Pasturage in many places, and great store of Cattel, Wine, Honey, and not without many and rich Mines both of Gold and Silver.
[Sidenote: _Pedro Baldivia_ taken Prisoner and put to death by the
_Arucans_.]
The Natives of this Countrey were found to be the most stout and warlike of all the _Americans_ that the _Spaniards_ had hitherto met withal, fighting with them, and oftentimes defeating them in the open Field, surprizing and sacking their Towns, and last of all taking their Captain and Commander in Chief Prisoner: This was _Pedro Baldivia_, one of those good Men that consented to the death of _Attabaliba_, the last King of _Peru_, after a greater Ransom accepted and paid, then perhaps the King of _Spain_ could well raise on a sudden, if he had occasion to use it for himself. The _Arucans_ (for so are the People call’d that had him Prisoner) are said to have Entertain’d him for a while with great Jollity and Feasting, but for his last Draught gave him a Cup of melted Gold, which the poor Man was forc’d to take down, and so died a cruel, though costly Death.
The whole Province generally is divided first into _Chile_, specially so call’d, and secondly _Magellanica_, or that part which lieth more Southward down to the _Straights_ of _Magellan_.
SECT. II.
Chile, properly so call’d.
[Sidenote: The Bounds of _Chile_ specially so call’d.]
_Chile_, specially so call’d, is border’d Northward with the Desart and barren Countrey of _Atacama_ above mention’d; on the South, with _Magellanica_; on the West, with _Mare del Zur_; Eastward, and to the North-East, with some parts of _Paraguay_, or rather with some undiscover’d Countreys lying betwixt them both: The length of it from North to South is reckon’d to be little less than three hundred Leagues, and generally of a fruitful Soil, affording besides abundance of Gold and Silver, both Corn, Cattel, Vineyards, and divers sorts of Fruits, equal both for kind and plenty to _Spain_ it self, and sundry other parts of _Europe_. The Air likewise temperate, and the People in their Manners and Conditions come much nearer to the Civility, and likewise subtilty of the _Europeans_, than other _Americans_ did; which doubtless may be attributed to the conformity of the Climates under which they lie, agreeable to those of _Europe_; though otherwise in respect of the Sphere and Seasons of the Year, there be a diametrical difference betwixt us; As for Example, their _Spring_ beginning in _September_, which is our _Autumn_, and their _Autumn_ in _March_, which is our _Spring_; their longest Day being that of _St. Lucy_, on the eleventh of _December_, which is our shortest; and their shortest being _St. Barnabas_, _viz._ the eleventh of _June_, which is our longest, _&c._
[Sidenote: Towns and Places of Importance.]
The Towns of chiefest note and importance in this Province, are 1. _Gopiapo_, an old Town in the most Northerly parts of this Province towards the Sea, where it hath a very commodious Haven belonging to it.
2. _La Serena_, a Town situate on the Banks of _Coquimbo_, a pleasant River a little above its Influx into the Sea, built by _Baldivia_ in the Year 1544. the Countrey about very rich in Mines of Gold, and the Town it self so well Garrison’d for fear of the Natives, that when the _English_ under Sir _Francis Drake_, about fourscore years since, attempted the gaining of the Place, they found hot Service of it, being stoutly resisted and beaten back again to their Ships, by a Sally of no less than three hundred good Horse and two hundred Foot.
3. _St. Jago_, the principal Town of the Province, a Bishop’s See, and the ordinary Residence of the Governor, lying on the Banks of the River _Tapocalma_, in the thirty fourth Degree of Southern Latitude, fifteen Leagues distant from the South Sea, at which it hath a very commodious and much frequented Haven, which they call _Valparayso_, and where the _English_ met with better fortune, as hath been said already in the report of Sir _Francis Drake_’s Voyage.
4. _La Conception_, a strong Town, seated on the Bay call’d _Penco_, sixty or seventy Leagues distant from _St. Jago_ towards the South, a Place not a little fortifi’d both by Nature and Art, having the Bay and a certain Ridge of high Mountains begirting it almost round about; and where it is otherwise accessible, a Castle, and certain Bulwarks with Ordnance, besides a Garrison of five hundred Soldiers at least continually in it, and all little enough to defend it against the _Araucanes_, their deadly Enemies, who live thereabouts, and are ever and anon making Incursions almost up to the Walls of it. Over against this Place in _Mare del Zur_, but very near the Shore, there lieth a certain Island call’d _St. Maries_, exceeding plentiful in Swine and all sorts of Poultrey, which the Garrison of _La Conception_ make good use of.
5. _Los Confines_, a Fronteer Town, built by the aforesaid _Baldivia_, for defence of the rich Mines of Gold at _Angol_, a Place near adjoyning.
6. _La Imperiale_, another strong Garrison of this Place on the Banks of the River _Cauten_, near to which that great Battel was fought, where _Baldivia_, with divers other Soldiers, were taken Prisoners, who were no otherwise overcome, but by being over-wearied with killing of their Enemies, and by that means not able to make their Retreat.
7. _Villarica_, another Colony of the _Spaniards_ in these Parts, sixteen Leagues distant from _Imperiale_, and twenty five from the Sea.
8. _Baldivia_, so nam’d from the Commander _Pedro Baldivia_, who built it in the Valley of _Guadallanquen_, two or three Leagues distant from the Sea, where it hath a good and capacious Port; but nearer to it the best Mines of _Peru_, so rich, that ’tis said they yielded _Baldivia_ every day so long as he could enjoy them, twenty five thousand Crowns.
9. _Osorno_, a Town lying in the Bay of _Chilue_ in a barren Soil, but otherwise neither less rich, nor less populous than _Baldivia_ it self.
These three last mention’d Towns, _viz._ _Baldivia_, _Imperiale_, and _Osorno_, were in the Years 1596, 1699, and 1604, surpriz’d by the _Araucanes_, and other Salvages confederate with them, sack’d and burnt; and though the _Spaniards_ be said to have recover’d and Garrison’d some of them with fresh Soldiers, yet how long they were able to hold them, or whether they be Masters of them at this day, we cannot say.
10. _Castro_, the most Southerly Town of the whole Province, built on a certain Island within the Bay of _Chilue_.
11. _Mendoza_; and 12. _St. Juan de la Frontera_, both which lie towards _Paraguay_ and _Rio de la Plata_, but on the other side of the _Andes_, forty Leagues distant from any of those we have spoken of, and perhaps more, not above a hundred from _Buenos Ayres_, and the _Atlantick_ Ocean.
SECT. III.
Magellanica.
[Sidenote: Situation and Description of _Magellanica_.]
[Sidenote: Sea-Port, Towns, Isles, and Straights.]
_Magellanica_, the other part of this Province, is bounded Northward, with _Chile_ abovesaid, and some parts of the Countrey _De la Plata_; on the South, with the narrow Sea call’d _Magellans Straights_; having _Mare del Zur_ on the West, and on the East the _Atlantick_ Ocean. It contains in length from the Borders of _Chile_ to the Mouth of the _Straights_, a hundred Leagues, and in breadth from the North to the South Sea, somewhat more, _viz._ towards _Chile_ and the North-West parts of it, for towards the South and South-West it straitens still more and more, insomuch that they who resemble the Southern part of _America_ to the form of a Pyramid revers’d, make this part of the Countrey to be the Spire or top thereof. It beareth the Name from _Ferdinand Magellan_, a _Portuguese_, who first discover’d that narrow Sea, so famously known by the Name of _Magellans Straights_. It is a large Countrey, and suppos’d not to be altogether barren of Metals; but as yet no great Discovery hath been made of it, partly by reason of the excessive Cold to which ’tis thought to be subject, and partly perhaps by reason of the difficulty of the Enterprize, it being so far remote, and very hardly passable in many places, by reason of the huge Mountains the _Andes_, which bar it as it were against all Adventurers; but chiefly by reason of the stoutness and untameableness of the _Araucanes_ and other Natives of _Chile_, through whose Countrey the March lieth, and who must first be conquer’d, so that very little can be said more of this Countrey, than onely to name the Ports and Places upon the Sea-Coasts, at which the _Spaniards_, and likewise some other Nations at several times have touched, the chief whereof upon the South Sea are, 1. _Cabo de las Islas_, a Promontory or Foreland, twenty six Leagues distant from that of _St. Felix_ on the Confines of _Chile_.
2. _Puerto de San Stephano_, fifty Leagues from that, towards the South.
3. _La Villa de Nuestra Sennora_, or _Our Ladies Dale_, a large and secure Bay, eighteen Leagues Southward of _St. Stephens_.
4. _La Punta Deglada_; 5. _Puerto de los Reyos_; and 6. _Ancona Sin Salida_, all of them opening towards the _Straights_. There is also at the opening of the Straights, _Cabo de la Vittoria_, _Cabo Desseado_, and some others.
Upon the North Sea, and up towards _Rio de la Plata_, the chief Places observable, are 1. _Rio de la Crux_, and the Cape which they call _De las Rameras_, about thirty Leagues distant from the _Straights_ Mouth.
2. The Bay of _St. Julian_, forty Leagues Northward of the former.
3. _El Puerto Desseado_; 4. _Puerto de los Leones_; 5. The Bay of _Anegada_, all of them good and capacious Havens for the security of Shipping upon these Coasts, and lying at a distance of thirty or forty Leagues one from another, up towards _Rio de la Plata_, and the Countrey of _Paraguay_, of which we are next to speak.
[Sidenote: Description of the _Magellan_ Straights.]
As for the Straights themselves, so much spoken of, and likewise so necessary to be known by those who frequent these parts of the World, they are a narrow Sea or Frith, by which the _Atlantick_ Ocean, or rather some parts of it, doth fall into _Mare de Zur_, or the South Sea: the Passage is long, running, as ’tis commonly suppos’d, well nigh a hundred Leagues together, almost in a paralel Line, or in the same Degree of Latitude from one end to the other; and likewise extreamly difficult by reason of the many windings and turnings of the Sea, which force them to be ever and anon altering of their Course, and a mountainous high Countrey on both sides of it, from whence it is almost continually beaten with Storms, both dangerous and terrible: They were first discover’d by _Ferdinand Magellan_, by Nation a _Portuguese_, but in the Service of the King of _Spain_, and by him nam’d _Magellan’s Straights_; who although himself liv’d not to return into _Spain_, being slain in the Conquest of the _Molucca_ Islands, yet his Companions did, in the Ship call’d _Vittoria_, from whence the Cape _De la Vittoria_ abovesaid took its Name. The Mouth or Entrance of them, by the _Atlantick_ Ocean, lies in fifty two Degrees of Southern Latitude, and hath not above fifty three and some Minutes at the _Exit_ or opening into the South Sea.
[Sidenote: The Straights of _Le Maire_.]
There is likewise since this, and but of late times, _viz._ about the Year 1615. another _Straight_ discover’d by the _Dutch_, and call’d from the Discoverer _Fretum Mairi_, or _The Straights of le Maire_, four or five Degrees more to the Southward than those of _Magellan_, and suppos’d to be a much earlier and safer Passage.
The Intention by the discovery of these _Straights_, was to have found a shorter Way to the _East-Indies_ and the Kingdoms of _Cathay_ and _China_, than that which was then onely us’d, _viz._ by the _Cape de Buena Speranza_, and the Coast of _Africk_, but by reason of the great difficulty, as ’tis to be suppos’d, and uncertainty of the Passage, neither the one nor the other is much frequented, the _Spaniards_ for the most part serving themselves of their _American_ Ports upon the South Sea, from whence they make their Voyages and Returns to and from the other _Indies_, and from thence home to _Spain_; and the _English_, with other Nations of _Europe_, Trading still by the Coast of _Africk_ and _Cape of Good Hope_, or else by the way of _Alexandria_ and the _Persian_ Gulf, as heretofore.
CHAP. VI.
Paraguay, or Rio de la Plata.
We have seen in _Magellanica_ the farthest, that is, the most Southerly part of the _New World_, and before it in order all the Western Coasts of _America_ that lie either upon or towards _Mare del Zur_, _viz._, from _Panama_, the first Province of this Southern part down as far as the _Straights_. We are now to return and take a view of the Eastern Coasts, and those Countreys which lie upon the _Atlantick_ Ocean, steering our Course henceforth Northward, not directly, but as the Coast leads us for a while Eastward and by North, forasmuch as the Land of _America_, from the _Straights_ of _Magellan_ up as far as _Brasile_, and almost to the _Æquator_, runneth out with a long Point, little less than three thousand Leagues together.
[Sidenote: Situation and Description of _Paraguay_, or _Rio de la
Plata_.]
The first Province we meet with on this side next to _Magellanica_, is the Countrey of _Paraguay_, oftentimes call’d _Rio de la Plata_, from the Name of an huge River, which runneth for the most part through the midst of it: It is border’d, as we said, to the South and towards the _Straights_ with _Magellanica_; on the East, with the _Atlantick_ Ocean; more Northward, or to the North-East, it hath _Brasile_; and on the West those undiscover’d Countreys of the Province of _Chile_, of which we have spoken.
The Countrey on both sides the River is reported to be a very lusty and fruitful Soil, bearing besides those which are proper and native, all sorts of _European_ Fruits and Grain in great abundance, with Sugar-Canes, both large and good, as any other Province of the _New World_. Nor is it excell’d by any other for good Pasturage and great Herds of Cattel, Sheep, and Swine; in particular, Horses are said to have multiply’d so here, that of thirty Mares, and about six or seven Stallions, which the _Spaniards_ left there, in forty years the whole Countrey thereabouts was fill’d with the Breed of them, running wild in great Companies together, through all the Woods and Forrests of the Countrey, and being of excellent Mettle and Service if they could be tam’d. It affordeth likewise great store of wild Deer and Stags, some Lyons, Tygers, _&c._ nor is it without good Mines, some both of Gold and Silver; but chiefly, as to what is yet discover’d, of Brass, and Iron; and the People altogether salvage.
[Sidenote: The River _De la Plata_.]
The River _De la Plata_, which (as we said before) divides this Countrey, is one of the largest of the whole World, rising, as ’tis suppos’d, out of the Lake call’d _De los Xarayes_, three hundred Leagues or more within Land, and falling into the _Atlantick_ Ocean, or North Sea, in thirty four Degrees of Southern Latitude, with an _Estuary_ or Mouth of thirty, or two and thirty Leagues over.
The whole Countrey is usually subdivided into three inferior Provinces, which are 1. _Rio de la Plata_ properly so call’d. 2. _Tucuman._ 3. _La Crux de Sierra._
SECT. II.
Rio de la Plata, properly so call’d.
[Sidenote: Situation of _Rio de la Plata_, properly so call’d.]
_Rio de la Plata_, properly so call’d, is that part of the Countrey which extendeth it self on both sides the River, in length many Leagues together, but not answerable in breadth.
[Sidenote: Towns and Places of note.]
The chiefest Towns of note in this Province, are 1. _Buenos Ayres_, by some call’d _La Trinidad_, on the Southern Banks of the River _De la Plata_, sixty four Leagues, as they say, from the Mouth of it: It is seated commodiously at the foot of a little Mountain, and fortifi’d with a Mud-Wall, a little Castle, and some Pieces of Ordnance.
2. _San Fe_, in English _St. Faiths_, fifty Leagues above _Buenos Ayres_, upon the same River, and a richer Place, chiefly by reason of their Cloth, of which there is here one of the greatest Manufactures of all these parts of _Peru_.
Comments
Log in to leave a comment.
America: Being the Latest, and Most Accurate Description of the Nevv VVorldChapter XXXIII: Front Matter (33)
0%37 min left in chapter