Chapter XXXV: A Roman Supper (1)

[XXXV-1] Genes, xviii.; Esther, v.; Matth. xxii.

[XXXV-2] Plin. xxxv. 10.

[XXXV-3] Mercurial. De Arte Gymnast, p. 94, edit. Frisii; Apul. Metamorph. v. In Principio; Id. lib. iv. Asini.

[XXXV-4] Apul. loc. cit.

[XXXV-5] Leclerc, Histoire de la Médecine, p. 573.

[XXXV-6] Apul. lib. i. Apologiæ Suæ, ex Catull.

[XXXV-7] Sammonic. Seren. De Medicinâ, c. 15.

[XXXV-8] Plaut. In Captivis, act i. sc. 2, v. 84.

[XXXV-9] Martial. v. 44.

[XXXV-10] Plin. vii. 60.

[XXXV-11] Id. xxxvi. 10.

[XXXV-12] Turneb. Adversar. xxiii. 19; xxvii. 18.

[XXXV-13] Theophrast. Charact. 20.

[XXXV-14] Virgil. Æn. i. v. 729.

[XXXV-15] Montfaucon, Antiq. Expl.

[XXXV-16] Petron. à Nodot. tom. i. p. 122.

[XXXV-17] Plutarch. Problem. Romanor. 76.

[XXXV-18] Petron. loc. cit.

[XXXV-19] Terent. Heautontimor. act i. sc. 1.

[XXXV-20] Octav. Ferrarius, De Re Vestiariâ, i. 31.

[XXXV-21] Le Pitture Antiche d’Ercolano, tom. i. tav. 14.

[XXXV-22] Dio. lxix.

[XXXV-23] Senec. De Vitâ Beatâ; Tibull. iv. 6; Psalm. passim.

[XXXV-24] Sil. Ital. Punicor. vi.

[XXXV-25] Petron. Conviv. Trimalcion.

[XXXV-26] Just. Lips.

[XXXV-27] Juvenal. Sat. xi.

[XXXV-28] Pacatus.

[XXXV-29] Vitruv. Architect. v. 8.

[XXXV-30] Quintilian. Institut. Orator. i. 14.

[XXXV-31] Valer. Maxim, ii. 1.

[XXXV-32] Arnob. ii.

[XXXV-33] Id. Ib.

[XXXV-34] Quintilian. Declamat. 301.

[XXXV-35] Juvenal. Sat. v. 32; vi. 154.

[XXXV-36] Terent. Eunuch, act. i. sc. 2, v. 85.

[XXXV-37] Virgil. Æn. v.

[XXXV-38] Cic. ad Familiar. ix. 20.

[XXXV-39] Horat. Sat. ix. 8, 9.

[XXXV-40] Petron. à Nodot. tom. i. p. 124.

[XXXV-41] Id. Ib.

[XXXV-42] Id. Ib.

[XXXV-43] Apicius, ii. 1.

[XXXV-44] Id. Ib.

[XXXV-45] Id. Ib.

[XXXV-46] Petron. p. 128.

[XXXV-47] Athen. iv.

[XXXV-48] Id. Ib.

[XXXV-49] Id. Ib.

[XXXV-50] Petron. tom. i. p. 130.

[XXXV-51] Alex. Trallian. lib. Problem 1.

[XXXV-52] Aul. Gell. xv. 2.

[XXXV-53] Plutarch. Sympos. i. Quæst. 4.

[XXXV-54] Martial. vi. 89.

[XXXV-55] Id. iii. 8.

[XXXV-56] Lucan. Pharsal. lib. iii. carm. 14.

[XXXV-57] Athen. iii. 21.

[XXXV-58] Virgil. Georg. ii. 528.

[XXXV-58A] Macrob. Saturnal. ii. 9.

[XXXV-59] Martial. xiii. 52.

[XXXV-60] Plin.

[XXXV-61] Martial. iii. 5.

[XXXV-62] Id. xiii. 71.

[XXXV-63] Juvenal. i. 141.

[XXXV-64] Petron. à Nodot, tom. i. p. 136.

[XXXV-65] Martial. xiii. 44.

[XXXV-66] Id. xiii. 56.

[XXXV-67] Id. xiii. 55.

[XXXV-68] Petron. tom. i. p. 130.

[XXXV-69] Id. p. 136.

[XXXV-70] Martial. iii. 82.

[XXXV-71] Id. Ib.

[XXXV-72] Horat. Sat. ii. 8, 86.

[XXXV-73] Petron. p. 138.

[XXXV-74] Martial. i. 62.

[XXXV-75] Petron. p. 132.

[XXXV-76] Id. Ib.

[XXXV-77] Virgil. Æn. ii. 49.

[XXXV-78] Plaut. Cur. i. 3, 15.

[XXXV-79] Encyclop. Méthod. Antiquités.

[XXXV-80] Plaut. In Sticho.

[XXXV-81] Sueton. In Galba.

[XXXV-82] Juvenal. Sat. xi.

[XXXV-83] Gell. xiii. 11.

[XXXV-84] Martial. v. 79.

[XXXV-85] Fest. Paniroll. tom. ii. tit. 2, De Porcellanis.

[XXXV-86] Nicephor. Gregoras; Manilius; Nicetas; Vopiscus.

[XXXV-87] Casaub. In Athen. i. 15.

[XXXV-88] Xenoph. In Conviv.

[XXXV-89] Herodot. vi. 129.

[XXXV-90] Xenoph. loc. cit.; Caylus, Recueil d’Antiquités. tom. i. p. 202.

[XXXV-91] Caylus, Ib.; Athen. iv.

[XXXV-92] Socrat. In Conviv. Xenoph.

[XXXV-93] Horat. Sat. lib. ii. 7, v. 82.

[XXXV-94] Caylus, tom. iv. pl. 80, No. 1; tom. vi. pl. 90, No. 3; tom. vii. p. 164.

[XXXV-95] Vet. Scholiast. Juvenal. ad v. 162, sat. 11.

[XXXV-96] Rosinus, Antiquit. Roman. p. 391.

[XXXV-97] Macrob. Saturnal. ii. 1.

[XXXV-98] Rosinus, Ib.

[XXXV-99] Id. p. 410.

TABLE OF RECIPES

OF

Ancient Cookery, and for the making of various Dishes.

Page
OXEN.

Care taken of oxen at the plough 14
Greek and Roman manure 14

CEREALS.

How to keep corn any length of time 15
Marshal Vanban’s method for using
corn in soup 15

Rural occupation of the Anglo-Saxons
throughout the year 17, 18

BREAD.

Bread made of spelt 19
Granea porridge 20
Avena oats for cattle and porridge 20
Seor bread 31
Azumos biscuit 33
Artolaganos biscuit 33
Escarites 33
Melitates 33
Tyrontes 33
Method of making leaven 36
Autopyron bread 37
Athletæ’s bread 37
Cappadocian ditto 38
Artoplites ditto 38
Astrologicus ditto 38
Panis madidus paste 38
Various kinds of bread made in Paris
in the 14th century 40
Alphiton, or barley gruel 41
Another sort 42
How to obtain the flavour of vanille from
oats, and make an excellent cream 42
Rice good in consumption and spitting
of blood 43
Carthaginian pudding 44
Indian corn hasty pudding 44

SEEDS.

Mustard, its influence and qualities 46
Coriander, its properties 47
Lupin, fit for fattening cattle 47

VEGETABLES.

Method of preserving vegetables 51
Twelfth-Night cake 54
Haricots preserved 56
Apicius’s method of dressing cabbages 61
Dried cauliflowers 61
Beet, its medicinal qualities 62
Apicius, on stewing the beet 63
Beet-root as a salad 63
Mallows as a salad 64
How to keep asparagus several days 65
How to cook the gourd 66, 67
Turnips, how to dress 67
Carrots as a salad, and otherwise 68
Purslaine, its internal use 69
Sorrel, stewed 69
Method of rendering artichoke mild 71
Way of dressing 71
How to preserve them 71
Pompion, how to dress it; three recipes 72
Cucumber; four recipes 73
Apicius’s œnogarum 73
Lettuce, method of cultivation by Aristoxenus 74
How to dress lettuces 75
Endives, way of stewing them 76
Onions, stewed 76
Leeks, stewed 77
Radishes, how to preserve them 79
Horse-radish, its virtues 81
Garlic, its qualities 82
Parsley, stewed 82
Chervil, how used 84
Water-cress, its properties 85

PLANTS USED IN SEASONING.

Poppy, how used 86
Sow-thistle, good for rabbits 87
Rocket, good for removing freckles 87
Fennel, good for strengthening the sight 88
Dill, its qualities 88
Anise-seed, its properties 88
Hyssop, good for cutaneous eruptions 89
Wild marjoram, a most delicate condiment,
&c. 89
Savory, its usefulness 89
Thyme, its culinary value 89
Wild thyme, efficacious, for the bite of
serpents 89
Sweet marjoram, oil extracted from it 89
Pennyroyal, a digestive 90
Rue, a cure for the ear-ache 90
Mint, a preservative against curdling
of milk 90
Assafœtida, chewed by the Persians
and Indians 92
Ginger, an aperitive good for the
scurvy and the chest 92
Wormwood, good for giddiness 93

STONE FRUIT.

Olive tree, preparation of its fruit 98
---- and qualities 99
Dates, their various uses 101
Peaches, how to preserve them 104

PIP FRUIT.

Quinces, how to preserve them 107
Pears, strengthening qualities 107
Lemons, method of preserving 110
Mulberry, a beneficent fruit, agreeable
to the stomach, and digestible 116

SHELL FRUIT.

Almonds, how to dress them, and their
various properties 117
Walnuts, considered astringent, stomachic,
an antidote to poison, and digestible 119
Pistachios, good however dressed 121
Chesnuts, how to preserve 122
Pomegranate, preserving 123

REARING OF CATTLE.

Oxen, how to fatten them 128
Method of salting and preserving meat 131

THE PIG.

Hog à la Troyenne 136
Apician brine, for salting pork 138
Apician pork 138
Macedonian pork 138
Stuffed sucking pig 139
Aristoxenic ham 139
Lucullian ham 139
Ventre de truie à la Troyenne 139
Ditto à la Romaine 139
Fillet of pork à la Bœotienne 139
Tétines de truie à la Salienne 140
Ditto à la Flamine 140
Olympian pig’s liver 140
Capitolian pig’s liver 140
Campanian bacon 140
Quenelles of pig’s liver and brains 140
Lucanian sausages 140
Imperial sausages 141

THE OX.

Beef à l’Ibérienne 144
Stewed beef à la Sarmate 144
Dish of veal à la Syracusaine 144
Noix de veau à la Tarantaise 144
Cisalpine preserve 145

THE LAMB.

Lamb’s head à la Quirinale 147
Quarter of lamb à l’Esquilon 147
Palatine broil 147
Roast lamb à la Phrygienne 147
Lamb à la Trimalcion 147

THE KID.

Kid à la Trans-Tibérienne 149
Roast Kid à la Janiculum 149
Kid à la Tarpéienne 149
Kid à la Tivoli 149
Kid à la Mélisienne 149

POULTRY.

Capon à la Déliaque 155

THE HEN.

Poularde à la Viminale 156

THE CHICKEN.

Apician Macedonia of chicken 157
Parthian chicken 157
Numidian chicken 157
Chicken à la Frontonienne 157
Chicken à la Cœlienne 157

THE DUCK.

Ducks’ brains à l’Epicurienne 159
Apicius’s seasoning for wild duck 159

THE GOOSE.

Sejus’s seasoning 161
Apician seasoning for roast goose’s
liver 161
Boiled goose à la Gauloise 161

THE PIGEON.

Roast pigeon, with Servilian seasoning 163

THE GUINEA HEN.

Guinea hen à la Numide 163

THE TURKEY HEN.

Turkey à l’Africaine 165
How to fatten turkey 165
Turkey’s eggs more delicate than hen’s
eggs 166
How to preserve turkey 166

THE PEACOCK.

Peacock of Samos 167

MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND
EGGS.

MILK.

Hygeian qualities of milk 169
Asses’ milk, good in weak constitutions 169
Macédoine Germanique of milk 170

BUTTER.

Method of preserving butter 172
Method of preventing rancidity 172

CHEESE.

Salad of cheese, à la Bithynienne 174
Dish of Tromelian cheese 174
Cheese of Rouergue 174

EGGS.

Eggs à la Romaine 177
Hard eggs à l’Athénienne 177
Fried eggs à l’Epœnète 177
Egyptian egg pudding 177
Lesbian eggs aux roses 177

THE STAG.

Quarter of stag roast à l’Nêméenne 183
Shoulder of stag à l’Hortensius 183
Fillet of stag à la Persane 183

THE ROEBUCK.

Roebuck with spikenard 184
Roebuck aux prunes 184
Roebuck aux Amandes de Pin 184

THE DEER.

Deer à la Marcellus 185

THE WILD BOAR.

Wild boar à la Troyenne 185
Wild boar à la Pompée 187
Quarter of wild boar à la Thebaine 187
Fillet of wild boar à la Macédonienne 187
Wild boar’s liver à la Grecque 187
Wild boar’s head à la Cantabre 187
Green ham of wild boar à la Gauloise 187

ELEPHANT.

Elephant’s feet roasted 192

FEATHERED GAME.

Pheasant’s flesh, good for weak stomachs 195
Starling, a nourishing and light food 200
Fig-pecker, an exquisite bird 203
Ortolan, has the same reputation 203
Ostrich, fatted and salted 203
Ostrich’s eggs, enormous, how to cook
them 204
Ostrich’s fat, used in the preparation of
dishes; cures rheumatism and paralysis 204
Salangan’s nest, a delicious seasoning 205
Salangan’s nest, good for exhaustion and
debile stomachs 205
Salangan’s nest, makes a fortifying
pottage 206
Snipe, delicate savour of the fat 207
Snipe, how to find, when in perfection 207
Lark, its supposed property 207
The common lark, wholesome and
delicate 237

FISH.

Caviar, how manufactured 217
Mullet, way of dressing 219
Lamprey, Italian method of cooking 223
Scarus, an epicurean dish 224
Conger-eel, how dressed 226
Eel, Apicius’s recipe 227
Pike, preserved 228
Carp, curious way of dressing 229
Eel-pout, how to dress the liver 229
Trout, dressed as the preceding 230
Gold-fish, how served 230
Whiting, manner of cooking 231
Cod-fish, how cooked by the Greeks 231
Perch, way of dressing 232
Scates, the eggs excellent for intermittent
fever 233
Sepia, Apicius’s recipe 234
Swordfish, how dressed by the Greeks 234
Shad, way it is cooked 234
Rhombo, a delicate fish, how dressed 235
Mugil, how prepared 235
Loligo, how prepared 237
Sole, a nourishing and light food 237
Pilchard, way of cooking 238
Loach, how dressed 238
Gudgeons, how dressed 239
Herring, methods of preserving 240
Anchovy, how salted and how dressed 241
Emphractum stew 242
Oysters, how dressed at Rome 243
Oysters, how preserved 244
Sea-hedgehog, way of cooking 245
Mussel, how dressed 245
Tortoise, the blood supposed to cure
diseases of the eyes, how dressed 246
Sea crayfish, Roman way of dressing 247
Lobster, how cooked 248
River crayfish, how dressed and preserved 248
Crab sausages 248
Frogs, how dressed 249
Preserving of fish 251

SAUCE AND SEASONING.

Sauce à la Cameline 258
Tence sauce 258
Brine, how made 269
Digestive salt, how made 269
Garum, various recipes 270 & 271
Digestive garum (Apicius) 272
Wonderful seasoning of Apicius 274
Oxyporon seasoning 274
Honey, its medicinal properties 276
Cinnamon, its medicinal properties 276
Greek and Roman pickles 278
Truffles, Apicius’s method of preparing 280
Syrup of truffles, how made 280
Truffles, medicinal quality 281
Truffles, how to preserve 281
The Emperor Verus’s pie, how made 287
Cato’s cake, how made 287
Ancient pie, the placenta, how made 287
Globi, method of making 288
Apicius’s globi, three recipes 289
Original pastry, its progress, how made 291
Darioles, how composed 292
Curious tarts 292

WATER.

Aristotle’s method of obtaining ice 295

BEVERAGES.

Zythum and Curmi, how composed 299
Strong ale, how to make a hogshead 302
Bracket, way of making 303
Ptisana, recipe 304
Oxycratus, do. 304
Sicera, made of grain, honey, or fruit 304
Hydromel, method of making it 304
Hydromelon, how composed 305
Hydrorosatum, simple addition to the
preceding 305
Apomeli, simple recipe 305
Omphacomeli, ingenious mixture 305
Myrtites, aromatic drink 305
Date wine, how made 305
Artificial wines 305
Nero’s refreshing water 305

TEA.

Various teas, how manufactured 306

COFFEE.

Various qualities of coffee 310
Coffee, made with roasted rye 311
Coffee, with chicory 311
Coffee, made with lupin 311
Coffee, its medicinal properties 311
Coffee, its physical effects 312

CHOCOLATE.

Various kinds of cocoa 313
Chocolate, how manufactured 313
Chiapa, perfumed chocolate 314
Chocolate, its properties 314

WINE.

Grapes, way of preserving fresh 325
Wine, method of making 325
Piquette, simple way of obtaining it 326
Carenum, how obtained 326
Defrutum, how obtained 326
Sapa, how obtained 326
Wine, how to preserve it 326
Preparation of dolia for wine 327
Wine, how to fine it 327
Athenæus’s opinion of old wine 329
Difference of properties between white
and red wines 329
Process of preparation for Chios wine 330
Passum wine 320
Dulce wine 330
Mulsum wine 331
Anisites wine 331
Rosatum wine, Apicius’s recipe 331
Violatum wine 331
Myrrhinum wine 331

LIQUEUR WINE.

Various composition of liqueurs, herbs
employed 333
Liqueur wine for Greek and Roman
ladies 333
Wormwood wine, how made, its properties 334
Bitter liqueurs, how obtained 334
Myrtle wine, its properties 334
Adynamon wine, its properties 335
Œnanthinum wine 335
Burgundy and Champagne wines 336
Ypocras, how composed 338
Clarey, how composed 338

REPASTS.

ROMAN SUPPER.

Fly dishes, or dormice, what they consist
of 390
Champignon and egg sausages, how
made 390
Grasshoppers, how prepared and cooked 390

INDEX.

.....Page

Abacus, sideboard, 264

Abderites, give up their soil to frogs, 249

Ablution, 382, 388

Ablutions, before supper, 372

Acerræ, vases for perfumes, 389

Acetabulum, vinegar cruet, 264

Acetaria, pickles of the ancients, 64

Achilles turned the spit, 253

Acorns, a primitive food, 23

“ eaten by the Spaniards, 24

“ a substitute for wheat, 24

Acratism, breakfast, 342

Acrobats, known to the ancients, 395

Adephagia, the goddess of good cheer, 256

Adrian’s regulations respecting cattle, 127

Adversitores, Roman footmen, 377

Adynamon wine, 334

Æsopus’ dish of singing birds, 193

Agapæ, love feasts, 346

Agricultural Society of England (the Royal), 16, 410

“ trophy, 411

Agriculture, 9

“ its origin, 9

“ developed the industry of the Jews, 11

“ very ancient in Egypt, 12

“ highly respected by the Roman Senate, 13

“ first treatise on, 16

“ honours paid to, 16

“ protected by Charles IX. of France, 18

Aï wine, 337

Albanum wine, 329

Albert, banquets offered to H. R. H. Prince, 403

Alcibiades’ banquet, 355

Ale, its ancient reputation, 301

“ its curative properties, 301

“ how it was made in England, 302

Ale, its price under Edward II., 302

Alec, a kind of brine, 240, 271

Alexander the Great discovered the eschalot, 82

“ was fond of apples, 108

“ an admirer of peacocks, 166

“ his magnificent banquet, 357

“ his silver arm-chairs, 372

Alfred the Great a renowned hunter, 181

Alisander, a valuable remedy, 91

Almond tree, 117

“ a native of Paphlagonia, 117

“ highly valued in the East, 117

“ how to augment its fertility, 117

Almonds, Apician preparation of, 117

“ eaten before drinking, 117

“ oil extracted from, 117

“ paste obtained from, 118

“ their various uses, 118

Alose sauce, 258

Alphonso of Castile, his repugnance to garlic, 81

Amalthæa, the goat, 23

Amboise (George d’), Archbishop of Rouen, 172

Ambrosia, the food of the gods, 23

Amphis, despised horse-radishes, 80

Amphoræ, vases used for wine, 328, 390

Ampulla, a crystal bottle, 296

Amusements of the guests, 383

Anacreon sung parsley, 83

Anaphe, an island desolated by hares, 188

Anchovies, 240

“ how preserved, 240

“ supplied a kind of garum, 240, 270

“ how cooked, 241

Andalusia, renowned for its olives, 98

Anecdote, severity of Pygmalion, 125

“ the eggs of Petronius, 201

Angel-fish, its size, 237

Anglo-Saxons, devoted to agriculture, 17

Anglo-Saxons, their rural occupations, 17

“ their culinary utensils, 346

Animal food added to vegetables, 123

“ when first introduced, 124

Animals, 133

Anise-seed, extolled by Pythagoras, 88

“ recommended by Pliny, 88

Anisites wine, 331

Anna Perenna, a protectress of flocks, 128

Antecœna, first course, 390

Antidote of Mithridates, 119

Antiphanus, a patron of quails, 197

Antony was fond of fishing, 250

“ his liberality towards a cook, 256

Apician pork, 138

Apicii, the three, 200

Apicius, he killed himself, 51

“ his gastronomic treatise, 200

“ his prize for a new brine, 213

“ his voyage to Africa, 247

“ his cakes, 289

Apollo was an ichthyophagist, 210

Apomeli, a kind of beverage, 305

Appetite, its three degrees, 255

Appius Claudius’ aqueduct, 295

Apple tree in Greece, 108

“ seldom mentioned in Holy Writ, 108

“ cultivated by the Latins, 109

“ introduced into Gaul, 109

Apples, named after eminent personages, 109

Apricot tree, 103

Apricots, their price in Rome, 103

“ how prepared, 104

Apronian cherry, 103

Apronianus, his decree respecting the Roman butchers, 130

Aqueducts of Rome, 294

Archestrates, his culinary meditations, 254

Archimagirus, chief cook, 256, 260

Argonauts, they discovered the pheasant, 194

Aristœus, the inventor of oil mills, 97

“ “ of cheese, 173

“ discovered honey, 273

Aristocracy of England, its munificent hospitality, 384

Aristoxenic ham, 139

Aristoxenus, his lettuces, 74

Armeniaca, apricot tree, 103

Artemidorus, regulated the culinary language, 254

Artichoke, known to the ancients, 70

“ despised by Galen, 70

“ sung by Columella, 70

Artichoke, forgotten during a long period, 70

“ their preparation, 71

“ how to render them mild, 71

“ how preserved, 71

“ when introduced into England, 52

Artificial dishes, 260

“ wines, 305

Artocreas, a kind of pie, 265, 286

Artolaganos, a kind of bread, 32

Artoplites, 38

Artopticius panis, 38

Arvales brothers, instituted by Romulus, 13

Asafœtida, esteemed by the ancients, 91

“ extraction of its resin, 92

Ascalon, the native place of eschalots, 82

Asparagus, 84

“ brought from Asia; grown at Ravenna, 65

“ Roman; their size; how prepared, 65

“ boiled; how preserved; hurtful to the sight, 65

“ when introduced into England, 52

“ wine, 333

Ass, its flesh forbidden to the Jews; patronised by Mecænas, 150

Asses used in Roman mills, 26

“ milk beneficial to Francis I., 169

“ “ cheese obtained from it, 173

Astrologicus panis, a sort of bread, 38

Astydamas, a great eater, 339

Athelstan, a promoter of the art of venery, 181

Athenæus praises the Damascus plum, 105

Athenians, their epicurism, 126

Athletæ, fed on figs, 113

Atriensis, hall-keeper, 376

Atrium, hall, 376

Attalus fond of gardening, 59

Attica, its pomegranates, 122

Augurs, their banquet, 357

Augustus, cured by lettuces, 75

“ was fond of cheese, 174

“ his sumptuary regulations, 347

Autopyron, a coarse bread, 37

Aveline, filbert, 120

Avena, vats, 20

Aviaries for thrushes, 198

“ Varro’s, 198

Aymar’s table of massive gold, 370

Azumos, a sort of bread, 32

Babylon, her celebrated gardens, 59

Bacchus, protector of the grapes; ripened the figs, 95

“ kills a goat, 124

“ the same as Osiris; cultivated the vine, 322

“ worshipped by the Romans, 324

Bacon, a substitute for oil, 100

“ was sold in public-houses, 138

Bailli de Suffren, a witty epicure, 343

Bain Marie of the ancients, 262

Bakehouses in Rome, 34

Baker, of King Pharaoh, 31

“ Greek bakers, 32

“ in Rome, 34, 35

“ submitted to certain regulations, 35

“ under the Norman kings, 38, 39

“ in France; how they were admitted at Paris, 39

Bancs, benches, 374

Banquet of Geta, 126

“ of Caranus, 155

“ of Charles VI., 259

“ of Alexander the Great, 357

“ etymology, 374

“ offered to Napoleon; to the allied sovereigns, 407

“ to H. M. Queen Victoria, 408

“ on the occasion of the baptism of Prince Albert Duncan, 412

Banquets of the ancients, 345

“ of William the Conqueror, 352

“ of the Hebrews, 354

“ in the Temples, 355

“ triumphal, 357

“ modern, 401, 407, 408

“ conducive to the prosperity of nations, 402

“ offered to H. R. H. Prince Albert, 403

“ given by the Reform Club, 408

Barbarossa’s pike, 228

Barbers in Rome, 387

Bardakes, cooling vases, 297

Barley, an ignominious food, 20

“ a symbol of fertility, 41

“ gruel, 41, 42

“ water, 42, 304

Basque fishermen, 231

Baths in Rome, 387

Bean, a dismal food; offered to Apollo; served on good tables, 53

“ Egyptian; Greek; royalty of the bean, 54

Beaune wine, 336

Beccafico, 201, 203

Beef, 143

“ à l’Ibérienne; à la Sarmate, 144

Beer, an ancient beverage, 299

“ a substitute for wine, 300

Bees, under the protection of Mellona, 273

Beet, etymology, 62

“ preparation, 62, 63

“ preservation, 63

“ a vermifuge, 62

Belisarius, his watermills on the Tiber, 28

Bellaria, dessert, 394

Bellay, Bishop of Mans (Du), 24

Berlanda, disinherited by her father (St.), 374

Beuchlingen (Countess of), fond of eel-pouts, 229

Beuckels, the Dutch fisherman, 239

Beverages, of which water is the foundation, 299

Biclinium, 372

Bill of Fare, 264, 404, 405, 409

“ of an English dinner in the 15th century, 362

Birds, when served, 193

“ a dish of 7,000 birds, 207

“ mixed with garlands of flowers, 394, 395

Birds’-nests, various opinions; described by Poivre, 205

“ substantial food; of two sorts, 206

Bittern, 198

Black pudding, 138

“ sauce of Lacedæmon, 252

Blackbirds, dear to the Roman epicures; medicinal properties;
imprisoned by Louis XI, 199

Blé, wheat, 19

Blit, its insipidity, 68

Bœotia, produced excellent pomegranates, 122

“ renowned for its ducks, 158

Bœuf-gras, a fatted ox, 145

Bold appetite, 255

Boleti, mushrooms, 283

Bon Chrétien pear, 107

Books placed in the dining-room, 364

Bordeaux, its oysters, 244

Botargo, a preparation from the eggs of mullets, 220

Bourbon coffee, 310

Bourriche of oysters, 242

Bouturon, butter, 171

Brahmin women, worship a cow, 145

Braket, a beverage for the lower classes, 303

Bramble of Ida, 115

Braziers of the ancients, 365

Bread, how made in the East, 30

“ without leaven, 31

“ of Athens; of Megara, 32

“ various kinds in Greece, 32, 33

“ baking, 33

“ of the athletæ, 37

“ soaked in vinegar, 278

“ carried round the tables, 392

Breakfast of Galba, 257

“ of the Romans; of the Greeks, 342

“ first meal, 344, 349

Brill, 237

Brine, used to preserve cheese, 174

“ from the blood of mackerel, 213

“ served at table, 268

“ brought from Dalmatia, 269

Britons, paid little attention to agriculture, 16

“ their frugality, 17

“ abstained from the hare, 188

“ “ from fish, 214

Brocoli, esteemed by connoisseurs; how prepared, 69

Brouet, a German dish, 258

Bubona, the goddess of oxen, 128

Buccellatum, biscuit, 37

Buffets of the Romans, 364

“ in the middle ages, 365

Buffon and the truffles, 279

Buffoons, 382

Buhl work, valued by the ancients, 369

Bun, its probable origin (Cross), 290

Buphonic feast, 125

Burgundy wine, 336

Bustard, 206

Butchers in Greece; in Rome; their patron, 129

“ corporations; regulations, 130, 131

Butter, a substitute for oil, 100

“ known in the East, 170

“ its manipulation; used for pastry; served instead
of oil; the food of the barbarians; a remedy, 171

“ how to obtain it instantly; how to attenuate its
rancidity; its preservation; burned in lamps, 172

“ fried or roasted, 258

“ regulations for its sale, 172

“ Tower, the, 172

Butts, of the ancients, 327

Cabbage, cured all diseases, 50

“ various preparations; brought into Gaul; how preserved, 61

Cacabaceus panis, a kind of bread, 38

Cadmus, the culinary tutor of a king, 253

Cæsar, served with bad oil, 99

“ sumptuary regulations, 347

Cake, devoured by an ox, 125

Cakes of the ancients, 285

Caligula, made his own apotheosis, 165

“ his expedition against Britain, 241

Calves, how fed, 143

Cambis devoured his wife, 339

Camels’-milk cheese, 173

“ flesh, 190

Cameline sauce, 257

Campanian bacon, 140

“ wines, 333

Canard, a French, 158

Candelabra, 389

Cantabria, renowned for hams, 137

Cantibaris, his stupendous gluttony, 340

Capers, left to the people; how prepared, 91

Capitolian pig’s liver, 140

Capon, first introduced, 154

“ à la déliaque, 155

Cappadocians, venerated water, 293

Capreæ, excesses of, 126

Capsarii, attendants in the Roman baths, 387

Caracas cocoa, 313

Caranus, a Greek epicure; his wedding repast, 155, 186

Carenum, cooked wine, 326

Caria, its oil, 98

Carp, held in estimation; how cooked; its size; its
fecundity; its longevity; where naturalised, 229

Carrots, much esteemed; how prepared, 68

Carthaginian chariot, 15

“ apples, 122

Cartier (Jacques), 231

Carver, 377

Carvilius, an artist in buhl-work, 369

Carving, art of; with music, 260

Castella aquarum, large water basins, 295

Castor, trained horses, 179

Catalonia, celebrated for hams, 137

Catesby, his opinion of the flamingo, 201

Catinus, a vase, 263

Cato, noticed the fig tree, 114

“ sold his old slaves, 208

“ his recipe for a cake, 287

Cattle mentioned in the Mosaic law; valued by the
Romans; rearing of cattle, 127

“ markets of the Hebrews; of the Greeks, 128

“ of the Romans, 129

Cattle, feeding of, 128

Cauliflowers unknown in England before Charles II., 52

Caviar, how prepared; of two sorts, 217

Cayenne coffee, 310

Cecilian cherry, 103

Celer, the price he gave for a red mullet, 213

Cellars of the ancients, 326

Celtiberia, swarming with rabbits, 189

Cereals, 19, 22

“ name of a feast; when discovered, 22

Ceres, the goddess of agriculture, 9, 13

“ a queen of Sicily, 24

“ gave the fig tree to Phytalus, 113

“ killed the first pig, 124

“ was presented with milk, 169

Cerevisia, beer, 300

Chafing-dishes, 262

Chailly, bread of, 39

Chairs used by the Greeks, 318

Chalices of the Greeks, 372

“ of amber, 321

Champagne wine, 33

Champignon sausages, 390

Charcutier, pork butcher, 132

Charlemagne’s kitchen-garden, 51

“ silver tables, 370

Charles VI. of France; his wedding banquet, 259

“ poisoned by mushrooms, 282

Charles IX. of France; his edict in favour of agriculture, 18

“ an admirer of turkeys, 185

Charles X. of France; his coronation banquet, 408

Cheese, 168

“ mentioned by Aristotle, 171

“ invented by Aristœus; known to the Hebrews;
a military aliment; various sorts; given to the Greek wrestlers, 173

“ preserved in brine; Tromelian; à la Bithynienne, 174

Cherips, invented a new dish, 280

Cherry tree, cultivated by Mithridates; introduced by Lucullus, 102

“ propagated in Italy, 103

Cherries praised, 102

“ when served; various kinds;

“ cherry wine, 103

Chervil, how prepared, 84

Chestnuts, preparation of; oil extracted, 121

“ kept green all the year, 122

Chestnut tree, its native place, 121

Chickens, sacred, 156

Chickens, hatched in ovens; à la Cœlienne; à la Frontonienne, 157

Chicory, mixed with coffee, 311

Chimneys known to the ancients, 261

“ unknown to the Hebrews, 365

Chinese, their respect for agriculture, 15

Chios wine, 328, 330

Chiron, a pupil of Diana, 179

Chocolat de santé, 313

Chocolate, 312

“ used by the Mexicans, 313

“ a favourite food in Spain; its properties;
when introduced into France, 314

Christmas bread, 40

Christmas feasts under Richard II., 351

Chrodegand, Bishop of Metz, 24

Cicero’s valuable tables, 369

Cider maker, 304

Cinara metamorphosed into an artichoke, 70

Cinnamon, its mysterious growing, 275

“ its scarcity; from China; offered as a present, 276

Cisalpine preserve, 145

City of London, its ancient gastronomic profusion, 351

Civilis panis, a kind of bread, 38

Clarence’s wedding repast (Duke of), 351

Clarey, an English drink, 338

Claudius, his guests, 257

“ poisoned by mushrooms, 282

“ his voracity, 340

Clement VII. poisoned by mushrooms, 282

Clerks’ wine, 337

Clerks’ feeding in the 16th century, 348

Cloths, dimensions of table; cutting away the table cloth, 374

Cloves, 276

Clovis, his politeness, 384

Club of Roman epicures, 243

Cock, consecrated to Mars; cock-fight in Greece; in Italy, 153

“ white, proclaimed the hours, 154

Cocoa-nut, 312

Cod-fishing; weight; fecundity, 231, 232

“ how dressed, 231

Cœlia, beer, 200

Cœna, supper, of various descriptions, 356, 357

Cœnaculum, dining-room, 363

Cœur, introduced the turkey (Jacques), 165

Coffee, of various kinds; its introduction, 310

“ when mentioned; its properties, 311

Coffee when drunk in Italy; in London; in Paris;
in Sweden; a slow poison; with milk, 312

Collation, 342, 344

“ of the Romans, 343

“ of Lucullus, 348

Colum nivarium, snow cullender, 296, 327

“ vinarium, wine strainer, 331

Colymbades, a kind of olives, 98

Comissatio, a sort of “wake”, 345

Comus, his portrait, 355

Conflagration of Rome, 396

Conger-eel, bestowing immortality; of a considerable size, 226

“ culinary preparation, 226

Connétable, a celebrated orange tree, 112

Conon’s banquet, 355

Conviva, guest, 381

Cookery, ancient, 266

“ exposed to unjust reproaches, 251

Cooks, 251

“ Greek, 126

“ from Sicily, 256, 344

“ erratic, 265

“ how rewarded, 256

“ in the middle ages, 259

“ of Louis XIV., 215, 256

“ his qualities, 252

Coriander used to preserve meat, 47

Corinth, its quinces, 106

Cormorant, 193

Corn, its aboriginal country, 22

“ various kinds, 19

“ best; Roman law, 21

“ cutting, 14

“ grinding, 23, 25

“ its preservation, 15

Cornelian law, 347

Corporation of butchers, 130

Cos, its poultry, 154

“ wine, 328

Cossi, large worms, 265

Couches for the repasts, 372

“ of some emperors, 373

“ in the middle ages, 374

Counts of Anjou, introduced the plum tree, 105

Courses, 362

“ their number, 345, 390, 391

Cow, worshipped by Brahmin women, 145

“ milk; cheese, 173

Condiments, 272

Crab, its seasoning; sausages; stuffed, 248

Cranaus mixed water with wine, 323

Crane, 193

Crater, a cup, 391

Crawfish, 247

Crayfish, seasoning; from Alexandria; how preserved, 248

Crédences, dressers, 365

Cross-bun, 290

Crow, 193, 207

Crowns of thrushes, 198

“ for the guests, 391

Crucifixion, the punishment of slaves, 208

Cruet, 264

Crystal, malleable, 218

Crystal Palace, the, 402

Cubicularii, valets, 377

Cucumber, plentiful in Egypt; from Antioch; marvellous properties, 72

“ protects all kinds of seeds; preparation; preservation, 73

Cummin, 91

Cups, 263, 316

“ in the Homeric ages, 317

“ variety of shapes, 318, 321

“ of praise, 369

“ modern, 407

“ bearer, 378

Curlew, 207

Curmi, beer, 299

Cuttle-fish, 234

Cuvier, on the Pentateuch, 9

Cybele, her repugnance to garlic, 81

“ patroness of the pine, 95

Cythnus, renowned for cheese, 174

Dalmatia, its brine, 269

Damascus plum trees, 105

Dampier, his opinion of the phenicopter, 201

Daphne, its thrushes, 197

Dapiferi, servants, 377

Darioles, a kind of pastry, 292

Dates, from Judea; how preserved; various preparations;
honey from the dates, 101

Dauphin of France, his style of living in the 14th century, 348

Death of Vatel, 215

Decapolis, its olives, 98

Décimer, or Décimheure, dinner, 349

Decree of Apronianus, 130

Deer, 184

“ à la Marcellus, 185

Defrutum, boiled wine, 326

Denarius, inclosed within a truffle (Roman), 279

Dessert, 394

Diamond, a fish, 237

Diana, taught Chiron, 179

Dies epulatæ, festivals, 290

Digestive garum, 272

“ salts, 269

Dill, its properties, 88

Dining-room, its decoration, 363

“ of Nero, 364

Dinner, 342, 344, 349

“ served to T. Quintus, 136

“ of the Jews, 342

Diogenes, his earthen vase, 327

Diomus kills an ox, 125

Diphilus fond of cherries, 102

Diploma, double vase, 262

Dishes of the ancients, 261

“ thirty thousand, at a banquet, 352

Dispensator, steward, 376

Distribution of wheat, 21

“ of oil, 99

“ of pork-meat, 130

Dodine sauce, 258

Dog, a relishing dish, 150

“ nailed to a cross, 151

“ trained by Pollux, 179

“ names of hunting dogs; their qualities, 180

Dolia, wine vessels, 327

Dolphins, 215

Dolyres, a kind of bread, 33

Domingo Coffee (St.), 310

Domitian, his turbot, 224

Dorio, a wit, 225

“ an epicure, 226

Dormice, how prepared, 390

Doubliers, table-cloths, 375

Dove, an emblem of sweet virtues, 162

Dragon-weaver, 237

Dressers, in the middle ages, 365

Drinking, 383

“ in Roman banquets, 392

“ to the good genius, 396

“ cups, 316

“ horns, 318

Druids, their respect for the oak, 24

Drunkards among the ancients, 316

Drusus fond of brocoli, 69

“ favourite starling, 200

“ daughter, and the sea-eels, 214

Duck, an antidote; its flesh; sacrificed to Neptune;
from Bœotia; served on good tables, 158

“ parts offered; brains à l’Epicurienne; seasoning, 159

Dulce wine, 330

Dumplings of Athens, 85

Dutertre, his opinion of the phenicopter, 201

Eagles, distribution of, 412

Easter eggs, 178

Eaters of renown, 340

Eau-bénite sauce, 258

Echansons, 378

Echaudé bread, 39

Eclectic appetite, 255

Eden, garden of, 9

Edgar, a destroyer of wolves (King), 181

Ediles of Rome, 355

Edward the Confessor, fond of hunting, 181

“ his sumptuary laws, 350

Eel, worshipped in Egypt; esteemed by the Greeks;
by the Sybarites; despised by the Romans;
noticed by Apicius; how prepared; sacrificed
to the Gods; how served; its enemies; served at Rockingham’s banquet, 227

“ its fabulous length, 213, 228

Eel-pout, its liver, 229

“ its reputation, 213

Eggs, 168

“ venerated by some philosophers, 175

“ primitive; when served; cooked without fire;
seen in dreams; symbol of the universe;
carried with pomp, 176

“ soft boiled; à la Romaine; à l’Epænète;
à l’Athénienne; à la Macédonienne; aux Roses, 177

“ pudding; red, 178

“ cooked on the spit, 258

“ Easter, 178

Egypt, the granary of the empire, 12

“ supplied the best vinegar, 278

Egyptians abhorred the pig, 134

“ esteemed the ox, 142

“ their veneration for the kid, 148

“ fond of fish, 211

“ their respect for the sea-eel, 222

“ for water, 293

“ consumed a great deal of bread, 340

“ wreaths, 394

Elephant, its flesh; its feet; trunk, 191

“ dancing elephants; à la Troyenne, 192

Elizabeth, fond of geese (Queen), 159

Emphractum, an Apician dish, 242

Endive, differently appreciated; curative qualities, 75

“ how prepared, 76

Entrails of the scarus, 224

“ of the tunny-fish, 225

Entremets, 383, 385

Epicurean dish in the olden times, 351

Epicurus, 400

Epimeletes, a Greek magistrate, 129

Erichthonius, king of Athens, 125

Eschalots, by whom discovered, 82

Escharites, a kind of bread, 33

Etiquette in the 16th century, 353

Eumenes encouraged the rearing of pigs (King), 136

Exeter banquet, 410

Exhibition of 1851, 16, 402

Extravagance Culinaire, 406

Falcon, 194

Falernian wine, 329

Fannius, the consul, 381

Fare, bills of, 404, 405, 409

Fattening of poultry, 154

“ of geese, 161

“ of turkeys, 165

Feast in honour of Ceres, 356

Feathered game, 193

Feathers thrown before the door, 358

Fécule, flour, 22

Feeding of cattle, 128

“ of clerks in the 16th century, 348

Fennel used to restore the sight, 88

Festival of St. Ulric, 215

Fête of the distribution of eagles, 412

Fig-pecker, how prepared, 201

Fig-tree dear to Bacchus, 95

“ a tree of Eden, 112

“ planted at Athens, 113

“ varieties; brought war on Attica, 114

Figs, abounded in Canaan, 112

“ exportation interdicted; an article of trade in Jerusalem;
valued by the Hebrews; food of the athletæ;
favourite food of Plato; of Attica;
served to Persian kings, 113

“ noticed by Cato; planted in the forum; food for entire armies, 114

“ how served, 115

Filbert, 120

File-fish, 237

Fillet of pork à la Béotienne, 139

Fish permitted to the Jews, 210

“ served to Queen Gatis; despised by the heroes of Homer, 211

“ Athenian law on, 212

“ disliked by the Britons, 214

Fish, of two hundred cubits, 213

“ mania, 214

“ prepared in the shape of game;
its consumption in former times; its vogue under Louis XIV., 215

“ ponds, 220

“ hooks, 249

“ preservation of; piscinæ on the roofs of houses, 250

Fishermen, 249

Fishing, 249

Fishmongers of Athens, 212

“ supplying royal tables, 215

Flabellarii, servants, 377

Flamingo’s tongue, 200

“ little known in Europe, 201

Flesh most in fashion in the age of Homer, 125

Flocks of the patriarchs, 127

“ of the eastern nations, 146

Flounder, 237

Flour, its manipulation, 30

Flowers used by the guests, 383

“ spread over the table, 389

Focarii, stokers, 378

Fontainebleau, its orange tree, 112

Fontenelle, his answer to Madame Helvétius, 381

Food, primitive, 345

“ animal, 123

Forks, 263

Fornax, a goddess, 34

Forum pistrinum, the bread market, 37

Fountains of the ancients, 294

“ in dining-rooms, 366

“ spouting various liquors, 367, 385

Fowls flavoured at will, 161

Fox, 190

Francis I., how cured, 169

Francis of Paulo introduces a pear (St.), 107

Fraternity of free-livers, 270

French wine, its price in England, 338

Fricatores, servants, 387

Fritters, 285

Frogs had no repute among the ancients;
in fashion in Paris; eaten in Germany; disdained in England, 249

Fruits, the primitive food; Hebrew legislation; how eaten, 95

“ how preserved, 96

“ when served, 96, 97

Fruit-trees on the house tops, 96

Frumenta, 41

Funereal banquet, 357

Furfuraceus panis, a sort of bread, 38

Furrows, their length, 18

Gala of the pagan pontiffs, 356

Galactophagists, drinkers of milk, 168

Galba’s breakfast, 257

“ gastronomic profusion, 341

Galen, his opinion of the pear, 107

Game, feathered, 193

“ its preservation, 194

“ fabulous expenses for, 207

“ abundant in Ithaca, 339

“ permitted to the Hebrews, 193

Gardening in Great Britain, 17

“ known at an early period, 59

Gardens, of Babylon; of Alcinous; Roman, 59

Garlic, a god in Egypt; a military food;
given to cocks; used by countrymen; proscribed by a King of Castile, 81

“ its virtues; how to render it milder, 82

Garoe, a curious tree, 298

Garos, a shrimp, 270

Garum, 213, 269

“ sociorum; 236, 270

“ obtained from anchovies, 240

“ procured from Spain, 243

“ its price; from shrimps; from mackerel;
of the allies; from tunny-fish; from the red mullet, 270

“ from saxatile fish; its preparation;
used as a seasoning; from various animals, 271

“ its modifications; digestive, 272

“ used in Turkey, 273

Garus, a shrimp, 270

Gastronomy, where it has flourished, 126

“ the offspring of appetite and sensuality, 210

“ promotes friendship, 402

Gatis, Queen of Syria, 211

Gaul, renowned for hams, 137

Gauls, enticed by the figs of Italy, 114

Geese, saved the Capitol, 151

“ appreciated by the ancients; their prudence; honoured by the Britons, 159

“ kept in the Capitol; a symbol of safety; fattening, 160, 161

Gelatine sauce, 258

Gellia, anecdote of, 189

George IV., his coronation banquet, 408

Geta’s banquet, 126

“ alphabetical dishes, 257

Getes, drinkers of milk, 168

Gills of mullets, 219

Ginger, 92

“ bread, 40

“ known to the ancients, 285

Gladiators, fighting to amuse the guests, 396

Globi, a kind of pastry, 288

Gloucestershire, renowned for its wines, 336

Goat, killed by Bacchus, 124

Gold-fish, how dressed; gave its name to Sergius, 230

Golden age, dietetic of the, 124

“ apples, 109

Gods of the sea, 294

Gonesse, bread of, 39

Goose’s liver, 160, 161

Goose à la Gauloise; served on Michaelmas day, 161

Gorgor introduces honey into Spain, 273

Goslings, in repute among the Greeks, 159

“ how fattened, 160

Gourd, brought from India; how prepared and preserved; from Antioch, 66

Grain, spread on the furrows, 14

Grains, 46

Granada, its olives, 98

Granatum, pomegranate, 122

“ wine, 331

Granea, how prepared, 20

Grapes, offered to Bacchus, 95

“ served on the Roman tables, 325

“ preserved, 325

Grass, a primitive seat, 368

Grasshoppers, 265, 390

Greek-nut, 117

Greeks, fond of agriculture, 11

“ their cattle-markets, 128

“ eat dogs, 151

“ laid the foundation of Ichthyophagy, 211

Grinding of corn, 23

Grinding-stones, by whom invented, 24, 25

“ used by ancient nations, 25

Grindstones, of porous lava, 28

Gruel, of the Romans, 33, 34

Gudgeon, 238

“ when served; seasoning, 239

Guests, 368

“ their places, 372

“ their number, 381

Guinea hen, native place; à la Numide, 163

“ sacrificed to Caligula, 165

Guiseau, a kind of eel, 228

Haddock, served with pomp, 236

Halec, a kind of brine, 240

Hall, atrium, 376

Hall-keeper, atriensis, 376

Halmades, a kind of olives, 98

Hams, when served, 137

Hand-mills, 25

Hare, how prepared; forbidden to the Jews; abounded in Greece, 188

Hare’s down used for couches, 373

Haricots, introduced by Alexander, 55

“ when served, 56

Harold, the British Nimrod (King), 182

Hazel-nut, 120

Healths, how drank, 383, 393, 394

Hebrews, their cattle-markets, 128

“ their use of wine, 323

Hedgehog, 190

Heliogabalus, fond of pheasants, 195

“ thrushes and ostrichs’s brains, 199, 204

“ was served with gills of mullets, 219

“ gorged the pheasants with an expensive delicacy, 221

“ his couches, 373

“ his childish espiégleries, 373

“ biography, 400

Hempseed, 48

Hen of Numidia, 163

Henry I. of England, his death, 222

Hens, proscribed by C. Fannius, 154

“ aviaries; inauspicious cackling; feeding, 155, 156

“ worshipped, 175

“ of Adria; eggs, 177

Hercules, the patron of butchers, 129

“ a powerful hunter, 179

“ resuscitated by a quail, 196

Heroes of Homer, fond of animal food, 126

“ their culinary talents, 253

Heron, 193, 194

Herring, unknown to the ancients; caught
on the coast of Scotland; sold by the Dutch, 239

“ how preserved, 240

Hesperides apples, 109

Hippocrates, prejudiced against beans, 53

Hippolochus, a defender of quails, 197

Hirpinus’s park, 181

“ fish-ponds, 243

Hirtius, celebrated for his fish-ponds, 220

“ his sea-eels, 221

Hirundo esculenta, sea-swallow, 205

Hog à la Troyenne, 136

Homer, his heroes, 126

“ his poem in favour of thrushes, 197

Honey, discovered by Aristæus;
its qualities; introduced into Spain;
recommended by Pythagoras; produced by the air;
by flowers, 273

“ by reeds; from Attica; when served; seasoning, 374

“ obtained from dates, 101

Honeyed wine, 131

Hôpital, prohibits the sale of pies (Chancelier de l’), 290

Horace, fond of parsley, 83

“ peacocks, 176

Hordeum, barley, 20

Horns, used for cups, 318

Hors-d’œuvre, 381

Horse-radish despised; various sorts; preparation of the seed, 80

“ spoils the teeth, 81

“ its properties, 80, 81

Horses, trained by Castor, 179

Hortensius, the first who served a peacock, 167

“ his park, 181

“ wept over the death of a fish, 214

Hospitality, described by Apollodorus, 355

“ of the English aristocracy, 384

Hot-houses, known to the ancients, 94

“ wine, 393

Hunting, its antiquity, 179

“ of the ancients, 180

“ permitted by the Roman law; in England, 181, 182

Hydromel, 304

Hydromelon, 305

Hydrorosatum, 305

Hyperbius, son of Mars, 124

Hypotrimma, a stomachic condiment, 272

Hyssop, its virtues, 88, 89

“ wine, 334

Ibrahim Pacha, entertained by the Reform Club, 408

Ice, how obtained; from the Alps; ice-houses, 295

Iced beverages, 296

Ichthyophagy, 210

“ of the Greeks; of the Romans, 208

Ichthyophilists, 212

Imperial sausages, 141

Incrustations, for tables, 368

Indolent appetite, 255

Innkeepers, 336

Intoxication, not unfashionable with the ancients, 317

“ in the middle ages, 337

“ punished in France, 337, 338

Invitation to dinner, 387

Irrigation of gardens, 59

Israelites, fed on quails, 196

“ their public repasts, 346

Ivory tables, 394

James I. and lamb’s fleece, 182

Janus planted the vine in Italy, 323

Jews, devoted to agriculture, 10

“ abstained from the pig, 134

“ “ hare, 188

Judea, its fertility, 12

“ produced excellent dates, 101

Jugglers, 384, 395

Jupiter, his stratagem against the Gauls, 33

“ suckled by a sow, 134

Jus Nigrum, black sauce, of Lacedæmon, 252

Keneffes, German, 258

Kervynge, the Booke of, 370

Kid, venerated by the Egyptians;
a favourite dish with the Hebrews;
the Greeks; of Attica, 148

“ Sicily; Tivoli; various preparations, 149

King of the banquet, 383

Kirschen-wasser, 103

Kitchen, ancient remains, 259

“ description, 260

“ in the middle ages, 353

Kitchen-garden, 59

Knives, 264

Ladies, fond of oysters (Roman), 244

“ forbidden to drink wine, 332

Lady of the lamb, 148

Lamb, offered in sacrifice; Paschal, 146

“ a luxury; in repute among the ancients; various preparations, 147

Lamprey, dried up by the sun; stops a vessel; its high price, 222

“ killed in Candian wine; how prepared, 223

“ compared to quails, 224

Lares, household gods, 390

Lark, 207

Latona, presented with leeks, 77

Leaven, known to the Jews, 31

“ how used by the Greeks, 33

“ different kinds, 36

Lecticarii, servants, 378

Leek, an Egyptian divinity; cured numerous diseases;
how prepared; how to make them acquire
an extraordinary size; they are offered to Latona, 77

Legislation, concerning the Roman slaves, 209

Lemon tree, its origin, 109

“ received from Persia, 110

“ used for tables and beds, 110, 368

Lemons, considered as a counter-poison;
how preserved; lemon-peel, a digestive, 110

Lentils, etymology; known to the Hebrews;
appreciated by the Egyptians; by the Greeks;
not in high repute with the Romans; supposed to soften the temper, 57

“ an ill-omened food; a funereal vegetable, 58

Lesbos wine, 328

Lettuce, eaten by the Hebrews; its narcotic
virtue; irrigated with wine; served with eggs, 74

“ how prepared, 75

Le Vaillant, his opinion of the elephant’s feet and trunk, 191

Libations, 390

Libum, a sort of cake, 287

Liburnian oil, 100

Licinian law respecting cattle, 127

“ concerning the Roman diet, 51

Licinius Muræna, 220

Lighting of the ancients, 366

Linseed, 48

Liqueur wine, 332, 334

List of the repast, 264

Liver of the red mullet, 213

Livia and the sorceress, 176

“ fond of good wine, 332

Livio contrived to fatten peacocks, 167

Loach, how dressed in Italy, 238

Loaves, Roman, 37

Lobster, a favourite dish, 247

“ how prepared, 248

Loligo, how served, 237

Louis XI imprisons blackbirds, 199

“ XIV., his public repasts, 349

“ his dinners, 350

“ suppers, 350

Lucanian sausages, 138, 140

Lucrinus, a lake renowned for its fish, 243

Lucullian ham, 139

Lucullus, introduced the cherry tree, 102

“ his park, 181

“ fed thrushes, 199

“ brought up the sea to his gardens, 213

“ his ambigu to Cicero and Pompey, 257, 348

Lupin, used for cattle, 47

“ etymology, 48

Lutatian cherry, 103

Luxury of the Romans, 356

Lycurgus commanded little children to fast, 252

“ destroyed the vines of Lacedæmon, 323

Lysimachus, his tax on salt, 267

Macédoine Germanique of milk, 170

Macedonia, its giant pigs, 136

“ of chickens, 157

Macedonian pork, 138

Mackerel, 235

“ its dangerous appetite; supplied a sort of garum, 236, 270

“ appreciated by the ancients, 236

“ etymology, 235

“ furnished a valuable brine, 213

Madidus panis, a sort of cosmetic, 38

Mecænas introduced the flesh of the ass, 150

Magiric science, its beginnings, 123

Mahomedans abstain from the pig, 134

Majordomo, 260

Mallows, their properties; in high renown;
among the ancient acetaria; how prepared; served as a salad, 64

Mamertinum wine, 329

Manlius, his trick with the Gauls, 33

Manure, Greek and Roman, 14

“ obtained from thrushes, 198

Maple, used for tables, 368

Maragnon cocoa, 313

Mares’ milk cheese, 173

Marionettes with the ancients, 395

Marjoram wine (wild), 333

Markets, 128

Market-bell, 212

Marl, used as manure, 14

Martinique coffee, 310

Mary Stuart’s supper, 383

Mauviette, a species of lark, 207

Meals, their number, 342

Meat, preserved without salt, 131

“ sold by mication, 129

“ given by guests to their servants, 394

Median apples, 109

Mediastini, servants, 387

Megalartus, taught to knead flour, 32

Meilleraye, his bill for vinegar (Duke de La), 278

Meleager, mourned by turkeys, 164

Meleagrides, turkeys, 164

Melitates, a sort of pastry, 33, 285

Mellona, the protectress of bees, 273

Melon, 77

“ from Asia; perfumed by the Greeks;
appreciated in Rome;
how to render it milder; its Hygienic qualities;
how prepared; brought from Italy, 78

Mercury was presented with milk, 169

Merenda, 343

Mication, used for the sale of meat, 129

Michaelmas day, goose served at dinner, 161

Michaux, a botanist, 19

“ brought peas into repute, 56

Miletus, the inventor of grinding-stones, 25

Milk, 168

“ a primitive food, 123

“ an emblem of fertility; the principal food of several nations, 168

“ offered to Ceres; to Mercury; its qualities, 169

“ Macédoine Germanique of, 170

“ mixed with coffee, 312

Millers, their festival (Roman), 26

Millet, 43

“ used for making cakes, 20

Millium, millet, 20

Mills introduced to Rome, 25

“ of the ancients; hydraulic mills; mentioned by Vitruvius, 27

“ where invented; constructed by Belisarius;
description; known in England, 28

“ wind-mills, 29

Milo, a notorious eater, 143, 339

Minerva, the patroness of the olive tree, 95

“ produced the olive tree, 97

Minos, his sumptuary laws, 346

Mint, formerly a young girl; prevented milk from curdling, 90

“ wine, 333

Minturnæ, the retreat of Apicius, 247

Mirabelle plums, 105

Misor taught the art of seasoning, 267

Mithœcus, a magiric writer, 254

Mithridates cultivated the cherry tree, 102

“ his antidote, 119

“ his opinion of the duck, 158

Mocha coffee, 310

Mola, a goddess, 25, 26

Monsieur, plums of, 105

Morel, a sort of mushroom, 282

Moretaria, a stomachic condiment, 272

Mortars, used to pound the grain, 24, 25

Mosaic law, concerning cattle, 127

Moses, promoted agriculture, 11, 322

Mostecham sauce, 258

Mountebanks enlivening the banquets, 344

Moût sauce, 258

Mugil, how dressed, 235

Mulberry tree, its wisdom; a native of Canaan; its juice and wine, 116

Mullet, red, 218

“ killed on the table, 213, 218

“ in brine, 213

“ anecdote of Philoxenus, 218

“ how cooked; its price, 218

“ its liver and head; weight, 219

Mulsum wine, cure for head-ache, 331

Muræna, sea-eel, 208

“ dear to Hortensius, 214

Murrhine vases, 319

Muria, brine; dura; a convivial punishment, 269

Muses, protected the palm-tree, 95, 100

Mushrooms, the dish of the gods; their
poisonous effects; relished by the ancients, 282

“ how they are grown, 283

Musicians, symphoniaci, 389

Mussels, praised by the ancients, served
to the gods; how seasoned, 245

Mustaceum of the Romans, 286

Mustard, 46

“ etymology, 46, 47

“ a remedy against venomous serpents, 46

Myrrhinum wine, 331

Myrtites wine, 305

Myrtle wine, 334

Napkins used by the ancients, 375

Naples, its good cheer, 126

Napoleon I., his coronation banquet, 407

Nero’s iced water, 305

“ dining-room, 363

“ he sets fire to Rome, 369

“ biographical note, 399

Nestor’s cup, 317

Nets, 249

New year eggs, 178

Nicolas of Damascus, his dates, 101

Nicomachus and his estate, 177

Nicomedes and his cook, 44, 45

Noisettes, hazel nuts, 120

Nomenculatores, servants, 377

Northumberland (Duke of), his munificence, 408

Nougat of the ancients, 285

Numidian chicken, 157

Nut-tree, 120

“ nuts of Jupiter; Persian, 118

“ of Heraclea, 120

Oak, supplied a primitive food, 24

Oatmeal, relished by the ancients, 43

Oats, 42

“ appreciated by the Germans, 20

“ oat soup; oat cream, 42

Obsonator, servant, 260, 377

Œnanthinum wine, 335

Œnogarum, 73

Officers appointed to watch over the water, 294

Oil, abounded in the East; used by the Patriarchs, 97

“ the best; its price in Rome, 98

“ served to Julius Cæsar; used at the baths; distribution of oil, 99

“ Liburnian oil, 100

“ of almonds, 117

“ of chestnuts, 121

Oil-mills, invented by Aristæus, 97

Olive-tree, 96

“ discovered by Minerva; its pre-eminence; used for various emblems, 97

“ cultivated by the Jews; in Greece, 98

Olives, preserved by the Hebrews; of Andalusia; of Granada; cultivation, 98

“ when served, 99

Olla, a Spanish dish, 258

Olympian pig’s liver, 140

Omphacomeli, a beverage, 305

Onions, brought into Greece; how prepared; with honey, 76

Orach, its pernicious properties, 87

Orange-tree, its native place; introduced
by the Portuguese; unknown to the Romans, 111

“ stuck with cloves, 112

Orchius, the Tribune, 381

Organs of the Romans, 389

Orpheus and the primitive egg, 176

Ortolans, sent to Rome, 203

Oryza, rice, 20

Osiris, the inventor of agriculture, 9

“ introduced the plough into Egypt, 12

Ostiarius, porter, 376

Ostrich, fatted and salted, 203

“ served on some tables; dish of ostrich’s brains; eggs; a friandise, 204

Otranto, the palm tree of, 100

Ovens, used by the Jews, 31

“ near the hand-mills, 33

“ first built in Rome, 34

“ portable, 35

Ox, sacrificed by Prometheus, 124

“ offered to Jupiter; devouring a sacred cake, 125

“ roasted whole, 142, 410

“ an emblem of agriculture; its image on coins; offered to pugilists, 142

“ its flesh permitted to the Hebrews; praised by Hippocrates; price of, 143

“ highly valued by the Romans, 145

“ care taken of; tracing a furrow, 14

“ sacrificed to Bubona, 128

Oxycrat, a military drink, 304

Oxymel, 304

Oxyporon, a seasoning, 274

Oysters, uncommon in ancient times; served
to the pagan pontiffs; their price, 242

“ preserved fat and alive; sent to Trajan;
when served in Greece; often served raw; how fattened, 343

“ how dressed; from the Atlantic ocean;
from Bordeaux; how preserved; pickled;
forgotten for a long period, 244

Palatine broil, 147

Pales, 128

Palestine, renowned for its wines, 322

Palladius cultivated the lemon tree, 110

Palm-tree, consecrated to the Muses, 95, 100

“ of Otranto, 100

“ its usefulness, 101

“ supplied the schecar, 100

Pan, 31

Pandarus, exempt from indigestions, 251

Panic-grass, 43

“ a favourite dish, 20

Panis, bread; etymology, 31, 32

Parasites, 382, 388

“ their place in banquets, 380

Parks, 180

Parrot-fish, 223

Parsley given as a prize, 82

“ its origin; culinary preparation; a symbol of mourning, 83

Parsley, the food of chargers; a favourite plant
with Horace; sung by Anacreon, 83

“ seed wine, 333

Parthian chicken, 157

Partridges, 195

“ their price; the best parts; their fights, 196

“ feathers used for couches, 373

“ eggs, 177

Paschal lamb, 146

Passum wine, 330

Pastry of the Jews; among the Egyptians;
with the Greeks and Romans, 284

“ patronised by eminent persons, 290

“ its progress, 291

“ cooks, 285, 290

Patinæ, dishes, 263

Peach-tree, supposed to be poisonous; price of peaches; how preserved, 104

Peacocks, 166