Chapter I: II III IV V VI (4)

«Cleaning Window Panes.»—Take diluted nitric acid about as strong as strong {209} vinegar and pass it over the glass pane, leave it to act a minute and throw on pulverized whiting, but just enough to give off a hissing sound. Now rub both with the hand over the whole pane and polish with a dry rag. Rinse off with clean water and a little alcohol and polish dry and clear. Repeat the process on the other side. The nitric acid removes all impurities which have remained on the glass at the factory, and even with inferior panes a good appearance is obtained.

«To Clean Store Windows.»—For cleaning the large panes of glass of store windows, and also ordinary show cases, a semiliquid paste may be employed, made of calcined magnesia and purified benzine. The glass should be rubbed with a cotton rag until it is brilliant.

«Cleaning Lamp Globes.»—Pour 2 spoonfuls of a slightly heated solution of potash into the globe, moisten the whole surface with it, and rub the stains with a fine linen rag; rinse the globe with clean water and carefully dry it with a fine, soft cloth.

«To Clean Mirrors.»—Rub the mirror with a ball of soft paper slightly dampened with methylated spirits, then with a duster on which a little whiting has been sprinkled, and finally polish with clean paper or a wash leather. This treatment will make the glass beautifully bright.

«To Clean Milk Glass.»—To remove oil spots from milk glass panes and lamp globes, knead burnt magnesia with benzine to a plastic mass, which must be kept in a tight-closing bottle. A little of this substance rubbed on the spot with a linen rag will make it disappear.

«To Remove Oil-Paint Spots from Glass.»—If the window panes have been bespattered with oil paint in painting walls, the spots are, of course, easily removed while wet. When they have become dry the operation is more difficult and alcohol and turpentine in equal parts, or spirit of sal ammoniac should be used to soften the paint. After that go over it with chalk. Polishing with salt will also remove paint spots. The salt grates somewhat, but it is not hard enough to cause scratches in the glass; a subsequent polishing with chalk is also advisable, as the drying of the salt might injure the glass. For scratching off soft paint spots sheet zinc must be used, as it cannot damage the glass on account of its softness. In the case of silicate paints (the so-called weather-proof coatings) the panes must be especially protected, because these paints destroy the polish of the glass. Rubbing the spots with brown soap is also a good way of removing the spots, but care must be taken in rinsing off that the window frames are not acted upon.

«Removing Silver Stains.»—The following solution will remove silver stains from the hands, and also from woolen, linen, or cotton goods:

Mercuric chloride 1 part Ammonia muriate 1 part Water 8 parts

The compound is poisonous.

«MISCELLANEOUS CLEANING METHODS AND PROCESSES:»

«Universal Cleaner.»—

Green soap 20 to 25 parts Boiling water 750 parts Liquid ammonia, caustic 30 to 40 parts Acetic ether 20 to 30 parts

Mix.

«To Clean Playing Cards.»—Slightly soiled playing cards may be made clean by rubbing them with a soft rag dipped in a solution of camphor. Very little of the latter is necessary.

«To Remove Vegetable Growth from Buildings.»—To remove moss and lichen from stone and masonry, apply water in which 1 per cent of carbolic acid has been dissolved. After a few hours the plants can be washed off with water.

«Solid Cleansing Compound.»—The basis of most of the solid grease eradicators is benzine and the simplest form is a benzine jelly made by shaking 3 ounces of tincture of quillaia (soap bark) with enough benzine to make 16 fluidounces. Benzine may also be solidified by the use of a soap with addition of an excess of alkali. Formulas in which soaps are used in this way follow:

I.—Cocoanut-oil soap. 2 av. ounces
Ammonia water 3 fluidounces
Solution of potassium 1 1/2 fluidounces
Water enough to make 12 fluidounces

Dissolve the soap with the aid of heat in 4 fluidounces of water, add the ammonia and potassa and the remainder of the water.

If the benzine is added in small portions, and thoroughly agitated, 2 1/2 fluidounces of the above will be found sufficient to solidify 32 fluidounces of benzine. {210}

II.—Castile soap, white 3 1/2 av. ounces
Water, boiling 3 1/2 fluidounces
Water of ammonia 5 fluidrachms
Benzine enough to make 16 fluidounces

Dissolve the soap in the water, and when cold, add the other ingredients.

«To Clean Oily Bottles.»—Use 2 heaped tablespoonfuls (for every quart of capacity) of fine sawdust or wheat bran, and shake well to cover the interior surface thoroughly; let stand a few minutes and then add about a gill of cold water. If the bottle be then rotated in a horizontal position, it will usually be found clean after a single treatment. In the case of drying oils, especially when old, the bottles should be moistened inside with a little ether, and left standing a few hours before the introduction of sawdust. This method is claimed to be more rapid and convenient than the customary one of using strips of paper, soap solution, etc.

«Cork Cleaner.»—Wash in 10 per cent solution of hydrochloric acid, then immerse in a solution of sodium hyposulphite and hydrochloric acid. Finally the corks are washed with a solution of soda and pure water. Corks containing oil or fat cannot be cleaned by this method.

«To Clean Sponges.»—Rinse well first in very weak, warm, caustic-soda lye, then with clean water, and finally leave the sponges in a solution of bromine in water until clean. They will whiten sooner if exposed to the sun in the bromine water. Then repeat the rinsings in weak lye and clean water, using the latter till all smell of bromine has disappeared. Dry quickly and in the sun if possible.

CLEARING BATHS: See Photography.

CLICHÉ METALS: See Alloys.

CLOCK-DIAL LETTERING: See Watchmakers’ Formulas.

CLOCK-HAND COLORING: See Metals.

CLOCK OIL: See Oil.

CLOCK REPAIRING: See Watchmaking.

CLOCKMAKERS’ CLEANING PROCESSES: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

CLOTH TO IRON, GLUEING: See Adhesives.

CLOTHES CLEANERS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods; also, Household Formulas.

CLOTHS FOR POLISHING: See Polishes.

CLOTH, WATERPROOFING: See Waterproofing.

CLOTHING, CARE OF: See Household Formulas.

COACH VARNISH: See Varnishes.

COALS, TO EAT BURNING: See Pyrotechnics.

COAL OIL: See Oil.

COBALTIZING: See Plating.

COCOAS: See Beverages.

COCOA CORDIAL: See Wines and Liquors.

COCOANUT CAKE: See Household Formulas and Recipes.

COCHINEAL INSECT REMEDY: See Insecticides.

COD-LIVER OIL AND ITS EMULSION: See Oil, Cod-Liver.

«COFFEE, SUBSTITUTES FOR.»

I.—Acorn.—From acorns deprived of their shells, husked, dried, and roasted.

II.—Bean.—Horse beans roasted along with a little honey or sugar.

III.—Beet Root.—From the yellow beet root, sliced, dried in a kiln or oven, and ground with a little coffee.

IV.—Dandelion.—From dandelion roots, sliced, dried, roasted, and ground with a little caramel.

All the above are roasted, before grinding them, with a little fat or lard. Those which are larger than coffee berries are cut into small slices before being roasted. They possess none of the exhilarating properties or medicinal virtues of the genuine coffee.

V.—Chicory.—This is a common adulterant. The roasted root is prepared by cutting the full-grown root into slices, and exposing it to heat in iron cylinders, along with about 1 1/2 per cent or 2 per cent of lard, in a similar way to that adopted for coffee. When ground to powder in a mill it constitutes the {211} chicory coffee so generally employed both as a substitute for coffee and as an adulterant. The addition of 1 part of good, fresh, roasted chicory to 10 or 12 parts of coffee forms a mixture which yields a beverage of a fuller flavor, and of a deeper color than that furnished by an equal quantity of pure or unmixed coffee. In this way a less quantity of coffee may be used, but it should be remembered that the article substituted for it does not possess in any degree the peculiar exciting, soothing, and hunger-staying properties of that valuable product. The use, however, of a larger proportion of chicory than that just named imparts to the beverage an insipid flavor, intermediate between that of treacle and licorice; while the continual use of roasted chicory, or highly chicorized coffee, seldom fails to weaken the powers of digestion and derange the bowels.

COFFEE CORDIAL: See Wines and Liquors.

COFFEE EXTRACTS: See Essences and Extracts.

COFFEE SYRUPS: See Syrups.

COFFEE FOR THE SODA FOUNTAIN: See Beverages.

COIL SPRING: See Steel.

COIN CLEANING: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

COINS, IMPRESSIONS OF: See Matrix Mass.

COIN METAL: See Alloys.

COLAS: See Veterinary Formulas.

«Cold and Cough Mixtures»

«Cough Syrup.»—The simplest form of cough syrup of good keeping quality is syrup of wild cherry containing ammonium chloride in the dose of 2 1/2 grains to each teaspoonful. Most of the other compounds contain ingredients that are prone to undergo fermentation.

I.—Ipecacuanha wine 1 fluidounce
Spirit of anise 1 fluidrachm
Syrup 16 fluidounces
Syrup of squill 8 fluidounces
Tincture of Tolu 4 fluidrachms
Distilled water enough to make 30 fluidounces

II.—Heroin 6 grains
Aromatic sulphuric acid 1 1/2 fluidounces
Concentrated acid infusion of roses 4 fluidounces
Distilled water 5 fluidounces
Glycerine 5 fluidounces
Oxymel of squill 10 fluidounces

III.—Glycerine 2 fluidounces
Fluid extract of wild cherry 4 fluidounces
Oxymel 10 fluidounces
Syrup 10 fluidounces
Cochineal, a sufficient quantity.

«Benzoic-Acid Pastilles.»—

Benzoic acid 105 parts Rhatany extract 525 parts Tragacanth 35 parts Sugar 140 parts

The materials, in the shape of powders, are mixed well and sufficient fruit paste added to bring the mass up to 4,500 parts. Roll out and divide into lozenges weighing 20 grains each.

«Cough Balsam with Iceland Moss.»—

Solution of morphine acetate 12 parts Sulphuric acid, dilute 12 parts Cherry-laurel water 12 parts Orange-flower water, triple 24 parts Syrup, simple 128 parts Glycerine 48 parts Tincture of saffron 8 parts Decoction of Iceland moss 112 parts

Mix. Dose: One teaspoonful.

«Balsamic Cough Syrup.»—

Balsam of Peru 2 drachms Tincture of Tolu 4 drachms Camphorated tincture of opium 4 ounces Powdered extract licorice 1 ounce Syrup squill 4 ounces Syrup dextrine (glucose) sufficient to make 16 ounces

Add the balsam of Peru to the tinctures, and in a mortar rub up the extract of licorice with the syrups. Mix together and direct to be taken in teaspoonful doses.

«Whooping-Cough Remedies.»—The following mixture is a spray to be used {212} in the sick room in cases of whooping cough:

Thymol 1.0 Tincture of eucalyptus 30.0 Tincture of benzoin 30.0 Alcohol 100.0 Water enough to make 1000.0

Mix. Pour some of the mixture on a cloth and hold to mouth so that the mixture is inhaled, thereby giving relief.

«Expectorant Mixtures.»—

I.—Ammon. chloride 1 drachm
Potass. chlorate 30 grains
Paregoric 2 fluidrachms
Syrup of ipecac 2 fluidrachms
Syrup wild cherry enough to make 2 fluidounces

Dose: One teaspoonful.

II.—Potass. chlorate 1 drachm
Tincture guaiac 3 1/2 drachms
Tincture rhubarb 1 1/2 drachms
Syrup wild cherry enough to make 3 fluidounces

Dose: One teaspoonful.

«Eucalyptus Bonbons for Coughs.»—

Eucalyptus oil 5 parts Tartaric acid 15 parts Extract of malt 24 parts Cacao 100 parts Peppermint oil 1.4 parts Bonbon mass 2,203 parts

Mix and make into bonbons weighing 30 grains each.

COLD CREAM: See Cosmetics.

COLIC IN CATTLE: See Veterinary Formulas.

«COLLODION.»

Turpentine 5 parts Ether and alcohol 10 parts Collodion 94 parts Castor oil 1 part

Dissolve the turpentine in the ether and alcohol mixture (in equal parts) and filter, then add to the mixture of collodion and castor oil. This makes a good elastic collodion.

See also Court Plaster, Liquid.

COLOGNE: See Perfumes.

COLOGNE FOR HEADACHES: See Headaches.

COLORS: See Dyes and Pigments.

COLORS, FUSIBLE ENAMEL: See Enameling.

COLORS FOR PAINTS: See Paint.

COLOR PHOTOGRAPHY: See Photography.

COLORS FOR SYRUPS: See Syrups.

CONCRETE: See Stone, Artificial.

«Condiments»

«Chowchow.»—

Curry powder 4 ounces Mustard powder 6 ounces Ginger 3 ounces Turmeric 2 ounces Cayenne 2 drachms Black pepper powder 2 drachms Coriander 1 drachm Allspice 1 drachm Mace 30 grains Thyme 30 grains Savory 30 grains Celery seed 2 drachms Cider vinegar 2 gallons

Mix all the powders with the vinegar, and steep the mixture over a very gentle fire for 3 hours. The pickles are to be parboiled with salt, and drained, and the spiced vinegar, prepared as above, is to be poured over them while it is still warm. The chowchow keeps best in small jars, tightly covered.

«Essence of Extract of Soup Herbs.»—Thyme, 4 ounces; winter savory, 4 ounces; sweet marjoram, 4 ounces; sweet basil, 4 ounces; grated lemon peel, 1 ounce; eschalots, 2 ounces; bruised celery seed, 1 ounce; alcohol (50 per cent), 64 ounces. Mix the vegetables, properly bruised, add the alcohol, close the container and set aside in a moderately warm place to digest for 15 days. Filter and press out. Preserve in 4-ounce bottles, well corked.

«Tomato Bouillon Extract.»—Tomatoes, 1 quart; arrowroot, 2 ounces; extract of beef, 1 ounce; bay leaves, 1 ounce; cloves, 2 ounces; red pepper, 4 drachms; Worcestershire sauce, quantity sufficient to flavor. Mix.

«Mock Turtle Extract.»—Extract of beef, 2 ounces; concentrated chicken, 2 ounces; clam juice, 8 ounces; tincture of black pepper, 1 ounce; extract of celery, 3 drachms; extract of orange peel, soluble, 1 drachm; hot water enough to make 2 quarts. {213}

«RELISHES:»

«Digestive Relish.»—

I.—Two ounces Jamaica ginger; 2 ounces black peppercorns; 1 ounce mustard seed; 1 ounce coriander fruit (seed); 1 ounce pimento (allspice); 1/2 ounce mace; 1/2 ounce cloves; 1/2 ounce nutmegs; 1/2 ounce chili pods; 3 drachms cardamom seeds; 4 ounces garlic; 4 ounces eschalots; 4 pints malt vinegar.

Bruise spices, garlic, etc., and boil in vinegar for 15 minutes and strain. To this add 2 1/2 pints mushroom ketchup; 1 1/2 pints India soy.

Again simmer for 15 minutes and strain through muslin.

II.—One pound soy; 50 ounces best vinegar; 4 ounces ketchup; 4 ounces garlic; 4 ounces eschalots; 4 ounces capsicum; 1/2 ounce cloves; 1/2 ounce mace; 1/4 ounce cinnamon; 1 drachm cardamom seeds. Boil well and strain.

«Lincolnshire Relish.»—Two ounces garlic; 2 ounces Jamaica ginger; 3 ounces black peppercorns; 3/4 ounce cayenne pepper; 1/4 ounce ossein; 3/4 ounce nutmeg; 2 ounces salt; 1 1/2 pints India soy. Enough malt vinegar to make 1 gallon. Bruise spices, garlic, etc., and simmer in 1/2 a gallon of vinegar for 20 minutes, strain and add soy and sufficient vinegar to make 1 gallon, then boil for 5 minutes. Keep in bulk as long as possible.

«Curry Powder.»—

I.—Coriander seed 6 drachms
Turmeric 5 scruples
Fresh ginger 4 1/2 drachms
Cumin seed 18 grains
Black pepper 54 grains
Poppy seed 94 grains
Garlic 2 heads
Cinnamon 1 scruple
Cardamom 5 seeds
Cloves 8 only
Chillies 1 or 2 pods
Grated cocoanut 1/2 nut

II.—Coriander seed 1/4 pound
Turmeric 1/4 pound
Cinnamon seed 2 ounces
Cayenne 1/2 ounce
Mustard 1 ounce
Ground ginger 1 ounce
Allspice 1/2 ounce
Fenugreek seed 2 ounces

«TABLE SAUCES:»

«Worcestershire Sauce.»—

Pimento 2 drachms Clove 1 drachm Black pepper 1 drachm Ginger 1 drachm Curry powder 1 ounce Capsicum 1 drachm Mustard 2 ounces Shallots, bruised 2 ounces Salt 2 ounces Brown sugar 8 ounces Tamarinds 4 ounces Sherry wine 1 pint Wine vinegar 2 pints

The spices must be freshly bruised. The ingredients are to simmer together with the vinegar for an hour, adding more of the vinegar as it is lost by evaporation; then add the wine, and if desired some caramel coloring. Set aside for a week, strain, and bottle.

«Table Sauce.»—Brown sugar, 16 parts; tamarinds, 16 parts; onions, 4 parts; powdered ginger, 4 parts; salt, 4 parts; garlic, 2 parts; cayenne, 2 parts; soy, 2 parts; ripe apples, 64 parts; mustard powder, 2 parts; curry powder, 1 part; vinegar, quantity sufficient. Pare and core the apples, boil them in sufficient vinegar with the tamarinds and raisins until soft, then pulp through a fine sieve. Pound the onions and garlic in a mortar and add the pulp to that of the apples. Then add the other ingredients and vinegar, 60 parts; heat to boiling, cool, and add sherry wine, 10 parts, and enough vinegar to make the sauce just pourable. If a sweet sauce is desired add sufficient treacle before the final boiling.

«Epicure’s Sauce.»—Eight ounces tamarinds; 12 ounces sultana raisins; 2 ounces garlic; 4 ounces eschalots; 4 ounces horse-radish root; 2 ounces black pepper; 1/2 ounce chili pods; 3 ounces raw Jamaica ginger; 1 1/2 pounds golden syrup; 1 pound burnt sugar (caramel); 1 ounce powdered cloves; 1 pint India soy; 1 gallon malt vinegar. Bruise roots, spices, etc., and boil in vinegar for 15 minutes, then strain. To the strained liquor add golden syrup, soy, and burnt sugar, then simmer for 10 minutes.

«Piccalilli Sauce.»—One drachm chili pods; 1 1/2 ounces black peppercorns; 1/2 ounce pimento; 3/4 ounce garlic; 1/2 gallon malt vinegar. Bruise spices and garlic, boil in the vinegar for 10 minutes, and strain.

One ounce ground Jamaica ginger; 1 ounce turmeric; 2 ounces flower of mustard; 2 ounces powdered natal arrowroot; 8 ounces strong acetic acid. Rub powders in a mortar with acetic acid and add to above, then boil for 5 minutes, or until it thickens.

«FLAVORING SPICES.»

I.—Five ounces powdered cinnamon bark; 2 1/2 ounces powdered cloves; 2 1/2 {214} ounces powdered nutmegs; 1 1/4 ounces powdered caraway seeds; 1 1/4 ounces powdered coriander seeds; 1 ounce powdered Jamaica ginger; 1/2 ounce powdered allspice. Let all be dry and in fine powder. Mix and pass through a sieve.

II.—Pickling Spice.—Ten pounds small Jamaica ginger; 2 1/2 pounds black peppercorns; 1 1/2 pounds white peppercorns; 1 1/2 pounds allspice; 3/4 pound long pepper; 1 1/4 pounds mustard seed; 1/2 pound chili pods. Cut up ginger and long pepper into small pieces, and mix all the other ingredients intimately.

One ounce to each pint of boiling vinegar is sufficient, but it may be made stronger if desired hot.

«Essence of Savory Spices.»—Two and one-half ounces black peppercorns; 1 ounce pimento; 3/4 ounce nutmeg; 1/2 ounce mace; 1/2 ounce cloves; 1/4 ounce cinnamon bark; 1/4 ounce caraway seeds; 20 grains cayenne pepper; 15 ounces spirit of wine; 5 ounces distilled water. Bruise all the spices and having mixed spirit and water, digest in mixture 14 days, shaking frequently, then filter.

«MUSTARD:»

«The Prepared Mustards of Commerce.»—The mustard, i. e., the flower or powdered seed, used in preparing the different condiments, is derived from three varieties of Brassica (_Cruciferæ_)—_Brassica alba L., Brassica nigra_, and _Brassica juncea_. The first yields the “white” seed of commerce, which produces a mild mustard; the second the “black” seed, yielding the more pungent powder; and the latter a very pungent and oily mustard, much employed by Russians. The pungency of the condiment is also affected by the method of preparing the paste, excessive heat destroying the sharpness completely. The pungency is further controlled and tempered, in the cold processes, by the addition of wheat or rye flour, which also has the advantage of serving as a binder of the mustard. The mustard flour is prepared by first decorticating the seed, then grinding to a fine powder, the expression of the fixed oil from which completes the process. This oil, unlike the volatile, is of a mild, pleasant taste, and of a greenish color, which, it is said, makes it valuable in the sophistication and imitation of “olive” oils, refined, cottonseed, or peanut oil being thus converted into _huile vierge de_ Lucca, Florence, or some other noted brand of olive oil. It is also extensively used for illuminating purposes, especially in southern Russia.

The flavors, other than that of the mustard itself, of the various preparations are imparted by the judicious use of spices—cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, pimento, etc.—aromatic herbs, such as thyme, sage, chervil, parsley, mint, marjoram, tarragon, etc., and finally chives, onions, shallots, leeks, garlic, etc.

In preparing the mustards on a large scale, the mustard flower and wheat or rye flour are mixed and ground to a smooth paste with vinegar, must (unfermented grape juice), wine, or whatever is used in the preparation, a mill similar to a drug or paint mill being used for the purpose. This dough immediately becomes spongy, and in this condition, technically called “cake,” is used as the basis of the various mustards of commerce.

«Mustard Cakes.»—In the mixture, the amount of flour used depends on the pungency of the mustard flower, and the flavor desired to be imparted to the finished product. The cakes are broadly divided into the yellow and the brown. A general formula for the yellow cake is:

Yellow mustard, from 20 to 30 per cent; salt, from 1 to 3 per cent; spices, from 1/4 to 1/2 of 1 per cent; wheat flour, from 8 to 12 per cent.

Vinegar, must, or wine, complete the mixture.

The brown cake is made with black mustard, and contains about the following proportions:

Black mustard, from 20 to 30 per cent; salt, from 1 to 3 per cent; spices, from 1/4 to 1/2 of 1 per cent; wheat or rye flour, from 10 to 15 per cent.

The variations are so wide, however, that it is impossible to give exact proportions. In the manufacture of table mustards, in fact, as in every other kind of manufacture, excellence is attained only by practice and the exercise of sound judgment and taste by the manufacturer.

«Moutarde des Jesuittes.»—Twelve sardels and 280 capers are crushed into a paste and stirred into 3 pints of boiling wine vinegar. Add 4 ounces of brown cake and 8 ounces of yellow cake and mix well.

«Kirschner Wine Mustard.»—Reduce 30 quarts of freshly expressed grape juice to half that quantity, by boiling over a moderate fire, on a water bath. Dissolve in the boiling liquid 5 pounds of sugar, and pour the syrup through a colander containing 2 or 3 large horse-radishes cut {215} into very thin slices and laid on a coarse towel spread over the bottom and sides of the colander. To the colate add the following, all in a state of fine powder:

Cardamom seeds 2 1/2 drachms Nutmeg 2 1/2 drachms Cloves 4 1/2 drachms Cinnamon 1 ounce Ginger 1 ounce Brown mustard cake 6 pounds Yellow mustard cake 9 pounds

Grind all together to a perfectly smooth paste, and strain several times through muslin.

«Duesseldorff Mustard.»—

Brown mustard cake 10 ounces Yellow mustard cake 48 ounces Boiling water 96 ounces Wine vinegar 64 ounces Cinnamon 5 drachms Cloves 15 drachms Sugar 64 ounces Wine, good white 64 ounces

Mix after the general directions given above.

«German Table Mustard.»—

Laurel leaves 8 ounces Cinnamon 5 drachms Cardamom seeds 2 drachms Sugar 64 ounces Wine vinegar 96 ounces Brown cake 10 ounces Yellow cake 48 ounces

Mix after general directions as given above.

«Krems Mustard, Sweet.»—

Yellow cake 10 pounds Brown cake 20 pounds Fresh grape juice 6 pints

Mix and boil down to the proper consistency.

«Krems Mustard, Sour.»—

Brown mustard flour 30 parts Yellow mustard flour 10 parts Grape juice, fresh 8 parts

Mix and boil down to a paste and then stir in 8 parts of wine vinegar.

«Tarragon Mustard.»—

Brown mustard flour 40 parts Yellow mustard flour 20 parts Vinegar 6 parts Tarragon vinegar 6 parts

Boil the mustard in the vinegar and add the tarragon vinegar.

«Tarragon Mustard, Sharp.»—This is prepared by adding to every 100 pounds of the above 21 ounces of white pepper, 5 ounces of pimento, and 2 1/2 ounces of cloves, mixing thoroughly by grinding together in a mill, then put in a warm spot and let stand for 10 days or 2 weeks. Finally strain.

«Moutarde aux Epices.»—

Mustard flour, yellow 10 pounds Mustard flour, brown 40 pounds Tarragon 1 pound Basil, herb 5 ounces Laurel leaves 12 drachms White pepper 3 ounces Cloves 12 drachms Mace 2 drachms Vinegar 1 gallon

Mix the herbs and macerate them in the vinegar to exhaustion, then add to the mustards, and grind together. Set aside for a week or ten days, then strain through muslin.

In all the foregoing formulas where the amount of salt is not specified, it is to be added according to the taste or discretion of the manufacturer.

«Mustard Vinegar.»—

Celery, chopped fine 32 parts Tarragon, the fresh herb 6 parts Cloves, coarsely powdered 6 parts Onions, chopped fine 6 parts Lemon peel, fresh, chopped fine 3 parts White-wine vinegar 575 parts White wine 515 parts Mustard seed, crushed 100 parts

Mix and macerate together for a week or 10 days in a warm place, then strain off.

«Ravigotte Mustard.»—

Parsley 2 parts Chervil 2 parts Chives 2 parts Cloves 1 part Garlic 1 part Thyme 1 part Tarragon 1 part Salt 8 parts Olive oil 4 parts White-wine vinegar 128 parts Mustard flower, sufficient

Cut or bruise the plants and spices, and macerate them in the vinegar for 15 or 20 days. Strain the liquid through a cloth and add the salt. Rub up mustard with the olive oil in a vessel set in ice, adding a little of the spiced vinegar from time to time, until the whole is incorporated and the complete mixture makes 384 parts. {216}

CONDIMENTS, TESTS FOR ADULTERATED: See Foods.

CONDITION POWDERS FOR CATTLE: See Veterinary Formulas.

CONDUCTIVITY OF ALUMINUM ALLOYS: See Alloys.

«Confectionery»

«Cream Bonbons for Hoarseness.»—Stir into 500 parts of cream 500 parts of white sugar. Put in a pan and cook, with continuous stirring, until it becomes brown and viscid. Now put in a baking tin and smooth out, as neatly as possible, to the thickness of, say, twice that of the back of a table knife and let it harden. Before it gets completely hard draw lines with a knife across the surface in such manner that when it is quite hard it will break along them, easily, into bits the size of a lozenge.

«Nut Candy Sticks.»—Cook to 320° F. 8 pounds best sugar in 2 pints water, with 4 pounds glucose added. Pour out on an oiled slab and add 5 pounds almonds, previously blanched, cut in small pieces, and dried in the drying room. Mix up well together to incorporate the nuts thoroughly with the sugar. When it has cooled enough to be handled, form into a round mass on the slab and spin out in long, thin sticks.

«Fig Squares.»—Place 5 pounds of sugar and 5 pounds of glucose in a copper pan, with water enough to dissolve the sugar. Set on the fire, and when it starts to boil add 5 pounds of ground figs. Stir and cook to 240° on the thermometer. Set off the fire, and then add 5 pounds of fine cocoanuts; mix well and pour out on greased marble, roll smooth, and cut like caramels.

«Caramels.»—Heat 10 pounds sugar and 8 pounds glucose in a copper kettle until dissolved. Add cream to the mixture, at intervals, until 2 1/2 quarts are used. Add 2 1/4 pounds caramel butter and 12 ounces paraffine wax to the mixture. Cook to a rather stiff ball, add nuts, pour out between iron bars and, when cool enough, cut into strips. For the white ones flavor with vanilla, and add 2 pounds melted chocolate liquor for the chocolate caramel when nearly cooked.

«Candy Orange Drops.»—It is comparatively easy to make a hard candy, but to put the material into “drop” form apparently requires experience and a machine. To make the candy itself, put, say, a pint of water into a suitable pan or kettle, heat to boiling, and add gradually to it 2 pounds or more of sugar, stirring well so as to avoid the risk of burning the sugar. Continue boiling the syrup so formed until a little of it poured on a cold slab forms a mass of the required hardness. If the candy is to be of orange flavor, a little fresh oil of orange is added just before the mass is ready to set and the taste is improved according to the general view at least by adding, also, say, 2 drachms of citric acid dissolved in a very little water. As a coloring an infusion of safflower or tincture of turmeric is used.

To make such a mass into tablets, it is necessary only to pour out on a well-greased slab, turning the edges back if inclined to run, until the candy is firm, and then scoring with a knife so that it can easily be broken into pieces when cold. To make “drops” a suitable mold is necessary.

Experiment as to the sufficiency of the boiling in making candy may be saved and greater certainty of a good result secured by the use of a chemical thermometer. As the syrup is boiled and the water evaporates the temperature of the liquid rises. When it reaches 220° F., the sugar is then in a condition to yield the “thread” form; at 240° “soft ball” is formed; at 245°, “hard ball”; at 252°, “crack”; and at 290°, “hard crack.” By simply suspending the thermometer in the liquid and observing it from time to time, one may know exactly when to end the boiling.

«Gum Drops.»—Grind 25 pounds of Arabian or Senegal gum, place it in a copper pan or in a steam jacket kettle, and pour 3 gallons of boiling water over it; stir it up well. Now set the pan with the gum into another pan containing boiling water and stir the gum slowly until dissolved, then strain it through a No. 40 sieve. Cook 19 pounds of sugar with sufficient water, 2 pounds of glucose, and a teaspoonful of cream of tartar to a stiff ball, pour it over the gum, mix well, set the pan on the kettle with the hot water, and let it steam for 1 1/2 hours, taking care that the water in the kettle does not run dry; then open the door of the stove and cover the fire with ashes, and let the gum settle for nearly an hour, then remove the scum which has settled on top, flavor and run out with the {217} funnel dropper into the starch impressions, and place the trays in the drying room for 2 days, or until dry; then take the drops out of the starch, clean them off well and place them in crystal pans, one or two layers. Cook sugar and water to 34 1/2° on the syrup gauge and pour over the drops lukewarm. Let stand in a moderately warm place over night, then drain the syrup off, and about an hour afterwards knock the gum drops out on a clean table, pick them apart, and place on trays until dry, when they are ready for sale.

«A Good Summer Taffy.»—Place in a kettle 4 pounds of sugar, 3 pounds of glucose, and 1 1/2 pints of water; when it boils drop in a piece of butter half the size of an egg and about 2 ounces of paraffine wax. Cook to 262°, pour on a slab, and when cool enough, pull, flavor, and color if you wish. Pull until light, then spin out on the table in strips about 3 inches wide and cut into 4- or 4 1/2-inch lengths. Then wrap in wax paper for the counter. This taffy keeps long without being grained by the heat.

«Chewing Candy.»—Place 20 pounds of sugar in a copper pan, add 20 pounds of glucose, and enough water to easily dissolve the sugar. Set on the fire or cook in the steam pan in 2 quarts of water. Have a pound of egg albumen soaked in 2 quarts of water. Beat this like eggs into a very stiff froth, add gradually the sugar and glucose; when well beaten up, add 5 pounds of powdered sugar, and beat at very little heat either in the steam beater or on a pan of boiling water until light, and does not stick to the back of the hand, flavor with vanilla, and put in trays dusted with fine sugar. When cold it may be cut, or else it may be stretched out on a sugar-dusted table, cut, and wrapped in wax paper. This chewing candy has to be kept in a very dry place, or else it will run and get sticky.

«Montpelier Cough Drops.»—

Brown sugar 10 pounds Tartaric acid 2 ounces Cream of tartar 1/2 ounce Water 1 1/2 quarts Anise-seed flavoring, quantity sufficient

Melt the sugar in the water, and when at a sharp boil add the cream of tartar. Cover the pan for 5 minutes. Remove the lid and let the sugar boil up to crack degree. Turn out the batch on an oiled slab, and when cool enough to handle mold in the acid and flavoring. Pass it through the acid drop rollers, and when the drops are chipped up, and before sifting, rub some icing with them.

«Medicated Cough Drops.»—

Light-brown sugar 14 pounds Tartaric acid 1 1/2 ounces Cream of tartar 1/2 ounce Water 2 quarts Anise-seed, cayenne, clove, and peppermint flavoring, a few drops of each.

Proceed as before prescribed, but when sufficiently cool pass the batch through the acid tablet rollers and dust with sugar.

«Horehound Candy.»—

Dutch crushed sugar 10 pounds Dried horehound leaves 2 ounces Cream of tartar 3/4 ounce Water 2 quarts Anise-seed flavoring, quantity sufficient.

Pour the water on the leaves and let it gently simmer till reduced to 3 pints; then strain the infusion through muslin, and add the liquid to the sugar. Put the pan containing the syrup on the fire, and when at a sharp boil add the cream of tartar. Put the lid on the pan for 5 minutes; then remove it, and let the sugar boil to stiff boil degree. Take the pan off the fire and rub portions of the sugar against the side until it produces a creamy appearance; then add the flavoring. Stir all well, and pour into square tin frames, previously well oiled.

«Menthol Cough Drops.»—

Gelatin 1 ounce Glycerine (by weight) 2 1/2 ounces Orange-flower water 2 1/2 ounces Menthol 5 grains Rectified spirits 1 drachm

Soak the gelatin in the water for 2 hours, then heat on a water bath until dissolved, and add 1 1/2 ounces of glycerine. Dissolve the menthol in the spirit, mix with the remainder of the glycerine, add to the glyco-gelatin mass, and pour into an oiled tin tray (such as the lid of a biscuit box). When the mass is cold divide into 10 dozen pastilles.

Menthol pastilles are said to be an excellent remedy for tickling cough as well as laryngitis. They should be freshly prepared, and cut oblong, so that the patient may take half of one, or less, as may be necessary.

«Violet Flavor for Candy.»—Violet flavors, like violet perfumes, are very complex mixtures, and their imitation is a {218} correspondingly difficult undertaking. The basis is vanilla (or vanillin), rose, and orris, with a very little of some pungent oil to bring up the flavor. The following will give a basis upon which a satisfactory flavor may be built:

Oil of orris 1 drachm Oil of rose 1 drachm Vanillin 2 drachms Cumarin 30 grains Oil of clove 30 minims Alcohol 11 ounces Water 5 ounces

Make a solution, adding the water last.

«CONFECTIONERY COLORS.»—The following are excellent and entirely harmless coloring agents for the purposes named:

«Red.»—Cochineal syrup prepared as follows:

Cochineal, in coarse powder 6 parts Potassium carbonate 2 parts Distilled water 15 parts Alcohol 12 parts Simple syrup enough to make 500 parts

Rub up the potassium carbonate and the cochineal together, adding the water and alcohol, little by little, under constant trituration. Set aside over night, then add the syrup and filter.

«Pink.»—

Carmine 1 part Liquor potassæ 6 parts Rose water, enough to make 48 parts

Mix. Should the color be too high, dilute with water until the requisite tint is acquired.

«Orange.»—Tincture of red sandalwood, 1 part; ethereal tincture of orlean, quantity sufficient. Add the tincture of orlean to the sandalwood tincture until the desired shade of orange is obtained.

A red added to any of the yellows gives an orange color.

The aniline colors made by the “Aktiengesellschaft für Anilin-Fabrikation,” of Berlin, are absolutely non-toxic, and can be used for the purposes recommended, i. e., the coloration of syrups, cakes, candies, etc., with perfect confidence in their innocuity.

«Pastille Yellow.»—

Citron yellow II 7 parts Grape sugar, first quality 1 part White dextrine 2 parts

«Sap-Blue Paste.»—

Dark blue 3 parts Grape sugar 1 part Water 6 parts

«Sugar-Black Paste.»—

Carbon black 3 parts Grape sugar 1 part Water 6 parts

«Cinnabar Red.»*—

Scarlet 65 parts White dextrine 30 parts Potato flour 5 parts

«Bluish Rose.»*—

Grenadine 65 parts White dextrine 30 parts Potato flour 5 parts

«Yellowish Rose.»—

Rosa II 60 parts Citron yellow 5 parts White dextrine 30 parts Potato flour 5 parts

«Violet.»—

Red violet 65 parts White dextrine 30 parts Potato flour 5 parts

«Carmine Green.»—

Woodruff (Waldmeister) green 55 parts Rosa II 5 parts Dextrine 35 parts Potato flour 5 parts

To the colors marked with an asterisk (*) add, for every 4 pounds, 4 1/2 ounces, a grain and a half each of potassium iodide and sodium nitrate. Colors given in form of powders should be dissolved in hot water for use.

«Yellow.»—Various shades of yellow may be obtained by the maceration of Besiello saffron, or turmeric, or grains d’Avignon in alcohol until a strong tincture is obtained. Dilute with water until the desired shade is obtained. An aqueous solution of quercitrine also gives an excellent yellow.

«Blue.»—

Indigo carmine 1 part Water 2 parts

Mix.

Indigo carmine is a beautiful, powerful, and harmless agent. It may usually be bought commercially, but if it cannot be readily obtained, proceed as follows:

Into a capsule put 30 grains of indigo in powder, place on a water bath, and heat to dryness. When entirely dry put {219} into a large porcelain mortar (the substance swells enormously under subsequent treatment—hence the necessity for a large, or comparatively large, mortar) and cautiously add, drop by drop, 120 grains, by weight, of sulphuric acid, C. P., stirring continuously during the addition. Cover the swollen mass closely, and set aside for 24 hours. Now add 3 fluidounces of distilled water, a few drops at a time, rubbing or stirring continuously. Transfer the liquid thus obtained to a tall, narrow, glass cylinder or beaker, cover and let stand for 4 days, giving the liquid an occasional stirring. Make a strong solution of sodium carbonate or bicarbonate, and at the end of the time named cautiously neutralize the liquid, adding the carbonate a little at a time, stirring the indigo solution and testing it after each addition, as the least excess of alkali will cause the indigo to separate out, and fall in a doughy mass. Stop when the test shows the near approach of neutrality, as the slight remaining acidity will not affect the taste or the properties of the liquid. Filter, and evaporate in the water bath to dryness. The resultant matter is sulphindigotate of potassium, or the “indigo carmine” of commerce.

Tincture of indigo may also be used as a harmless blue.

«Green.»—The addition of the solution indigo carmine to an infusion of any of the matters given under “yellow” will produce a green color. Tincture of crocus and glycerine in equal parts, with the addition of indigo-carmine solution, also gives a fine green. A solution of commercial chlorophyll gives grass-green, in shades varying according to the concentration of the solution.

«Voice and Throat Lozenges.»—

Catechu 191 grains Tannic acid 273 grains Tartaric acid 273 grains Capsicin 30 minims Black-currant paste 7 ounces Refined sugar, Mucilage of acacia, of each a sufficient quantity.

Mix to produce 7 pounds of lozenges.

CONSTIPATION IN BIRDS: See Veterinary Formulas.

COOKING TABLE: See Tables.

COOLING SCREEN: See Refrigeration.

«Copper»

«Annealing Copper.»—

Copper is almost universally annealed in muffles, in which it is raised to the desired temperature, and subsequently allowed to cool either in the air or in water. A muffle is nothing more or less than a reverberatory furnace. It is necessary to watch the copper carefully, so that when it has reached the right temperature it may be drawn from the muffle and allowed to cool. This is important, for if the copper is heated too high, or is left in the muffle at the ordinary temperature of annealing too long, it is burnt, as the workmen say. Copper that has been burnt is yellow, coarsely granular, and exceedingly brittle—even more brittle at a red heat than when cold.

In the case of coarse wire it is found that only the surface is burnt, while the interior is damaged less. This causes the exterior to split loose from the interior when bent or rolled, thus giving the appearance of a brittle copper tube with a copper wire snugly fitted into it. Cracks a half inch in depth have been observed on the surface of an ingot on its first pass through the rolls, all due to this exterior burning. It is apparent that copper that has been thus overheated in the muffle is entirely unfit for rolling. It is found that the purer forms of copper are less liable to be harmed by overheating than samples containing even a small amount of impurities. Even the ordinary heating in a muffle will often suffice to burn in this manner the surface of some specimens of copper, rendering them unfit for further working. Copper that has been thus ruined is of use only to be refined again.

As may be inferred only the highest grades of refined copper are used for drawing or for rolling. This is not because the lower grades, when refined, cannot stand sufficiently high tests, but because methods of working are not adequate to prevent these grades of copper from experiencing the deterioration due to overheating.

The process of refining copper consists in an oxidizing action followed by a reducing action which, since it is performed by the aid of gases generated by stirring the melted copper with a pole, is called poling. The object of the oxidation is to oxidize and either volatilize or turn to slag all the impurities contained in the copper. This procedure is materially aided by the fact that the {220} suboxide of copper is freely soluble in metallic copper and thus penetrates to all parts of the copper, and parting with its oxygen, oxidizes the impurities. The object of the reducing part of the refining process is to change the excess of the suboxide of copper to metallic copper. Copper containing even less than 1 per cent of the suboxide of copper shows decreased malleability and ductility, and is both cold-short and red-short. If the copper to be refined contains any impurities, such as arsenic or antimony, it is well not to remove too much of the oxygen in the refining process. If this is done, overpoled copper is produced. In this condition it is brittle, granular, of a shining yellow color, and more red-short than cold-short. When the refining has been properly done, and neither too much nor too little oxygen is present, the copper is in the condition of “tough pitch,” and is in a fit state to be worked.

Copper is said to be “tough pitch” when it requires frequent bending to break it, and when, after it is broken, the color is pale red, the fracture has a silky luster, and is fibrous like a tuft of silk. On hammering a piece to a thin plate it should show no cracks at the edge. At tough pitch copper offers the highest degree of malleability and ductility of which a given specimen is capable. This is the condition in which refined copper is (or should be) placed on the market, and if it could be worked without changing this tough pitch, any specimen of copper that could be brought to this condition would be suitable for rolling or drawing. But tough pitch is changed if oxygen is either added or taken from refined copper.

By far the more important of these is the removal of oxygen, especially from those specimens that contain more than a mere trace of impurities. This is shown by the absolutely worthless condition of overpoled copper. The addition of carbon also plays a very important part in the production of overpoled copper.

That the addition of oxygen to refined copper is not so damaging is shown by the fact that at present nearly all the copper that is worked is considerably oxidized at some stage of the process, and not especially to its detriment.

Burnt copper is nothing more or less than copper in the overpoled condition. This is brought about by the action of reducing gases in the muffle. By this means the small amount of oxygen necessary to give the copper its tough pitch is removed. This oxygen is combined with impurities in the copper, and thus renders them inert. For example, the oxide of arsenic or antimony is incapable of combining more than mechanically with the copper, but when its oxygen is removed the arsenic or antimony is left free to combine with the copper. This forms a brittle alloy, and one that corresponds almost exactly in its properties with overpoled copper. To be sure overpoled copper is supposed to contain carbon, but that this is not the essential ruling principle in case of annealing is shown by the fact that pure copper does not undergo this change under conditions that ruin impure copper, and also by the fact that the same state may be produced by annealing in pure hydrogen and thus removing the oxygen that renders the arsenic or antimony inert. No attempt is made to deny the well-known fact that carbon does combine with copper to the extent of 0.2 per cent and cause it to become exceedingly brittle. It is simply claimed that this is probably not what occurs in the production of so-called burnt copper during annealing. The amount of impurities capable of rendering copper easily burnt is exceedingly small. This may be better appreciated when it is considered that from 0.01 to 0.2 per cent expresses the amount of oxygen necessary to render the impurities inert. The removal of this very small amount of oxygen, which is often so small as to be almost within the limits of the errors of analysis, will suffice to render copper overpoled and ruin it for any use.

There are methods of avoiding the numerous accidents that may occur in the annealing of copper, due to a change of pitch. As already pointed out, the quality of refined copper is lowered if oxygen be either added to or taken from it. It is quite apparent, therefore, that a really good method of annealing copper will prevent any change in the state of oxidation. It is necessary to prevent access to the heated copper both of atmospheric air, which would oxidize it, and of the reducing gases used in heating the muffle, which would take oxygen away from it. Obviously the only way of accomplishing this is to inclose the copper when heated and till cool in an atmosphere that can neither oxidize nor deoxidize copper. By so doing copper may be heated to the melting point and allowed to cool again without suffering as regards its pitch. There are comparatively few gases that can be used for this purpose, but, fortunately, one which is exceedingly cheap and universally {221} prevalent fulfills all requirements, viz., steam. In order to apply the principles enunciated it is necessary only to anneal copper in the ordinary annealing pots such as are used for iron, care being taken to inclose the copper while heating and while cooling in an atmosphere of steam. This will effectually exclude air and prevent the ingress of gases used in heating the annealer. Twenty-four hours may be used in the process, as in the annealing of iron wire, with no detriment to the wire. This may seem incredible to those manufacturers who have tried to anneal copper wire after the manner of annealing iron wire. By this method perfectly bright annealed wire may be produced. Such a process of annealing copper offers many advantages. It allows the use of a grade of copper that has hitherto been worked only at a great disadvantage, owing to its tendency to get out of pitch. It allows the use of annealers such as are ordinarily employed for annealing iron, and thus cheapens the annealing considerably as compared with the present use of muffles. There is no chance of producing the overpoled condition from the action of reducing gases used in heating the muffles. There is no chance of producing the underpoled condition due to the absorption of suboxide of copper. None of the metal is lost as scale, and the saving that is thus effected amounts to a considerable percentage of the total value of the copper. The expense and time of cleaning are wholly saved. Incidentally bright annealed copper is produced by a process which is applicable to copper of any shape, size, or condition—a product that has hitherto been obtained only by processes (mostly secret) which are too cumbersome and too expensive for extensive use; and, as is the case with at least one process, with the danger of producing the overpoled condition, often in only a small section of the wire, but thus ruining the whole piece.

«COPPER COLORING:»

«Blacking Copper.»—To give a copper article a black covering, clean it with emery paper, heat gently in a Bunsen or a spirit flame, immerse for 10 seconds in solution of copper filings in dilute nitric acid, and heat again.

«Red Coloring of Copper.»—A fine red color may be given to copper by gradually heating it in an air bath. Prolonged heating at a comparatively low temperature, or rapid heating at a high temperature, produces the same result. As soon as the desired color is attained the metal should be rapidly cooled by quenching in water. The metal thus colored may be varnished.

«To Dye Copper Parts Violet and Orange.»—Polished copper acquires an orange-like color leaning to gold, when dipped for a few seconds into a solution of crystallized copper acetate. A handsome violet is obtained by placing the metal for a few minutes in a solution of antimony chloride and rubbing it afterwards with a piece of wood covered with cotton. During this operation the copper must be heated to a degree bearable to the hand. A crystalline appearance is produced by boiling the article in copper sulphate.

«Pickle for Copper.»—Take nitric acid, 100 parts; kitchen salt, 2 parts; calcined soot, 2 parts; or nitric acid, 10 parts; sulphuric acid, 10 parts; hydrochloric acid, 1 part. As these bleaching baths attack the copper quickly, the objects must be left in only for a few seconds, washing them afterwards in plenty of water, and drying in sawdust, bran, or spent tan.

«Preparations of Copper Water.»—I.—Water, 1,000 parts; oxalic acid, 30 parts; spirit of wine, 100 parts; essence of turpentine, 50 parts; fine tripoli, 100 parts.

II.—Water, 1,000 parts; oxalic acid, 30 parts; alcohol, 50 parts; essence of turpentine, 40 parts; fine tripoli, 50 parts.

III.—Sulphuric acid, 300 parts; sulphate of alumina, 80 parts; water, 520 parts.

«Tempered Copper.»—Objects made of copper may be satisfactorily tempered by subjecting them to a certain degree of heat for a determined period of time and bestrewing them with powdered sulphur during the heating. While hot the objects are plunged into a bath of blue vitriol; after the bath they may be heated again.

COPPER ALLOYS: See Alloys.

COPPER CLEANING: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

COPPER ETCHING: See Etching.

COPPER IN FOOD: See Food.

COPPER LACQUERS: See Lacquers. {222}

COPPER PAPER: See Paper, Metallic.

COPPER PATINIZING AND PLATING: See Plating.

COPPER POLISHES: See Polishes.

COPPER, SEPARATION OF GOLD FROM: See Gold.

COPPER SOLDER: See Solders.

COPPER VARNISHES: See Varnishes.

«COPYING PRINTED PICTURES.»

The so-called “metallic” paper used for steam-engine indicator cards has a smooth surface, chemically prepared so that black lines can be drawn upon it with pencils made of brass, copper, silver, aluminum, or any of the softer metals. When used on the indicator it receives the faint line drawn by a brass point at one end of the pencil arm, and its special advantage over ordinary paper is that the metallic pencil slides over its surface with very little friction, and keeps its point much longer than a graphite pencil.

This paper can be used as a transfer paper for copying engravings or sketches, or anything printed or written in ink or drawn in pencil.

The best copies can be obtained by following the directions below: Lay the metallic transfer paper, face up, upon at least a dozen sheets of blank paper, and lay the print face down upon it. On the back of the print place a sheet of heavy paper, or thin cardboard, and run the rubbing tool over this protecting sheet. In this manner it is comparatively easy to prevent slipping, and prints 8 or 10 inches on a side may be copied satisfactorily.

Line drawings printed from relief plates, or pictures with sharp contrast of black and white, without any half-tones, give the best copies. Very few half-tones can be transferred satisfactorily; almost all give streaked, indistinct copies, and many of the results are worthless.