Chapter I: II III (13)

«Rust Preventives»

(See also Enamels, Glazes, Paints, Varnishes, Waterproofing.)

In spite of the numerous endeavors to protect metal objects from oxidation, a thoroughly satisfactory process has not yet been found, and we still have to resort to coatings and embrocations.

By covering the metals with a pale, colorless linseed-oil varnish, a fat or spirit lacquer, an unfailing protection against oxidation is obtained. This method, though frequently employed, however, is too laborious and expensive to admit of general use, and instead we frequently see employed ordinary or specially composed greases, especially for scythes, straw-knives, and many other bright iron goods. These greases are not suited to retard oxidation, for they are without exception acid-reacting bodies, which absorb oxygen in the air and under the action of light, thus rather assisting oxidation than retarding it. A covering of wax dissolved in oil of turpentine would be more recommendable, because wax is an impervious body, and a firm and rather hard layer remains after evaporation of the oil of turpentine, which excludes the air. If the treatment with the wax salve is carefully attended to no other objection can be urged against this preserving agent than that it is likewise comparatively expensive if used in large quantities. As regards the greases, and treatment with petroleum or vaseline, the easy attrition of these substances is another drawback, which makes a lasting protection impossible.

According to Shedlok, cast-iron articles are treated with acids, then exposed to the action of steam, hot or cold water, and dried. The receptacle is exhausted of air and a solution of pitch, rosin, rubber, or caoutchouc, applied under pressure. Objects prepared in this manner are said to be impervious even to weak acids.

The inoxidizing process of Ward is founded on the simultaneous employment of silicates and heat. The cast iron or wrought iron are coated with a siliceous mass by means of a brush or by immersion. This covering dries quickly, becomes liquid when the articles are exposed to a suitable heat, and soaks into the pores of the metal, forming a dense and uniform coat of dull black color after cooling, which is not changed by long-continued influence of the atmosphere, and which neither scales nor peels from the object. By the admixture of glass coloring matters to the siliceous mass, decorated surfaces may be produced.

Another inoxidation process for cast iron is the following: The cast-iron objects, such as whole gas chandeliers, water pipes, ornaments, balcony railings, cooking vessels, etc., are laid upon an iron sliding carriage 3.5 meters long and are exposed in a flame furnace of special construction first 15 minutes to the influence of gas generators with oxidizing action, then 20 minutes to such with reducing action. After being drawn out and cooled off the inoxidized pieces take on a uniform slate-blue shade of color, but can be enameled and ornamented in any manner desired. In applying the enamel the corroding with acid is obviated, for which reason the enamel stands exceedingly well.

A bronze-colored oxide coating which withstands outward influences fairly well, is produced as follows: The brightly polished and degreased objects are exposed from 2 to 5 minutes to the vapors of a heated mixture of concentrated hydrochloric acid and nitric acid (1:1) until the bronze color becomes visible on the articles. After these have been rubbed well with vaseline, heat once more until the vaseline commences to decompose. After cooling, the object is smeared well with vaseline. If vapors of a mixture of concentrated hydrochloric acid and nitric acid are allowed to act on the iron object, light reddish-brown shades are obtained, but if acetic acid is added to the above named two acids, oxide coatings of a bronze-yellow color can be obtained by the means of the vapors. By the use of different mixtures of acids any number of different colorings can be produced.

“Emaille de fer contre-oxide” is the name of an enamel which is said to protect iron pipes cheaply. The enamel is composed as follows: One hundred and thirty parts powdered crystal glass, 20.5 parts soda, 12 parts boracic acid. These substances mixed in the most careful manner are melted together in crucibles, the mass is chilled and transformed into a fine powder by crushing and grinding. The iron pipes and other objects of iron are first cleaned in the usual manner by corroding, dried and then coated with a very dilute gum arabic solution or any other gluing agent, and the powdered mass is spread over them by means of a sieve. The objects thus powdered are put in a room which is heated to 160° C. to drive out all moisture and are heated {624} to dark redness, at which temperature the oxide coating melts.

Those processes, which produce a black protoxide layer on the iron by heating iron objects in supersaturated aqueous vapor, have not stood the test, as the layer formed will drop off or peel off after a short time, thus opening the way for rust after all.

The anti-rust composition called rubber oil is prepared as follows, according to the specification of the patent: The crude oil obtained by the dry distillation of brown oil, peat and other earthy substances is subjected to a further distillation. Thinly rolled India rubber, cut in narrow strips, is saturated with four times the bulk of the oil and left alone for a week or so. The mass thus composed is then subjected to the action of mineral sperm oil or a similar substance, until an entirely uniform clear substance has formed. This substance, which is applied on the metallic surfaces in as thin a layer as possible, forms a sort of film after slowly drying, which is perfectly proof against atmospheric influences.

The rust-preventive composition of Jones & Co., Sheffield, is a composition of wax, fat, turpentine, and small quantities of iron oxide.

According to a process patented by A. Buchner in Germany, the iron objects are first painted with a mixture of an alkaline glue solution and rosin soap. The alkaline mass enters all the pores and fissures and prevents the rust from extending under the coating. After the first coat is dry a second one is applied of the following composition: Five parts linseed oil boiled with peroxide of manganese; 2.25 parts turpentine; 0.25 parts benzol; 20 parts zinc dust, carbonate of calcium, lead oxide, or peroxide of manganese. The mixing of the liquid with the powders must be done immediately before use, as the mass solidifies after 10 hours, and is then no longer of working consistency. The second coating, which should only be thin, hardens quickly. The paint is weatherproof, does not peel off or blister, and adheres so firmly that it can only be removed with mechanical means.

A patented process to prevent rusting of wrought or cast iron consists in applying with a brush a strong solution of potassium dichromate and drying in a stove or over an open fire. Drying at ordinary temperature is not sufficient. To ascertain if the heat is strong enough the iron is moistened with a little water. So long as this takes up any color the heat must be increased. When the proper degree of heat is reached a fine deep black layer results, which is not acted upon by water, and protects the surface from the action of the atmosphere.

A permanent lustrous rust preventive is secured as follows: The well-cleaned iron parts are suspended for a few minutes in a blue vitriol solution, so that a delicate skin of copper forms on the surface; if the pieces rinsed off with water are then moved about for a few minutes in a solution of sodium hyposulphite faintly acidulated with hydrochloric acid, they assume a blue-black coating of copper sulphide, which is equally permanent in air and in water. The black surface may be immediately rinsed with water, dried with a rag or blotting paper, and polished at once. It possesses a steel-blue luster, adheres well to the iron, will stand treatment with the scratch brush, and protects against rust in a most satisfactory manner.

«Black Sheet Rust Preventive.»—Before black plate is ready to receive a rust protective coating, it is necessary to render the surface free from grease and scales, for which purpose the sheet iron is placed for some time into a warmed solution of 10 parts of sulphuric acid in 100 parts of water, whereby the impurities become detached, a process which may be assisted and accelerated by scouring with sand. Then rinse in clean water and rub dry in sawdust. The sheets thus prepared are placed for a short while into a feeble solution of blue vitriol, where they assume a reddish coloring. Next, they are rinsed in water, and after that moved to and fro, for a short time, in a feeble solution of hyposulphite of soda acidulated with a little hydrochloric acid. The result is a dark-blue coating on the sheets, which prevents all oxidation.

«To Keep Machinery Bright.»—I.—In order to keep machinery from rusting take 1 ounce of camphor, dissolve it in 1 pound of melted lard; take off the scum, and mix as much fine black lead as will give it iron color. Clean the machinery and smear it with this mixture. After 24 hours, rub clean with soft linen cloth. It will keep clean for months under ordinary circumstances.

II.—Mastic, transparent grains 10 parts
Camphor 5 parts
Sandarac 5 parts
Gum elemi 5 parts
Alcohol, wood, quantity sufficient to dissolve.

{625}

Mix and cover the articles with the solution. The latter will take the lacquer better if warmed slightly, but may be easily covered in the cold, if necessary.

«Magnetic Oxide.»—A layer of magnetic oxide is a good preservative from rust. To obtain it the objects are placed in the furnace at a temperature sufficient for decomposing steam. Steam superheated to 1,040° F. is then injected for from 4 to 6 hours. The thickness of the layer of oxide formed varies with the duration of the operation. This process can replace zincing, enameling, and tinning.

The deposit of magnetic oxide may also be obtained by electrolysis. The iron object is placed at the anode in a bath of distilled water heated to 176° F. The cathode is a copper plate, or the vessel itself, if it is of iron or copper. By electrolysis a layer of magnetic oxide is formed. Other peroxides may be deposited in the same manner. With an alkaline solution of litharge, a very adherent, brilliant, black deposit of peroxide of lead is secured. Too energetic a current must be avoided, as it would cause a pulverulent deposit. To obtain a good coating it is necessary, after putting the objects for a moment at the positive pole, to place them at the other pole until the oxide is completely reduced, and then bring them back to their first position.

«Paper as Protection for Iron and Steel.»—That paraffine paper is a very good protector of iron and steel has been proven by tests conducted by Louis H. Barker for the Pennsylvania Railroad. The mode of applying the paraffine paper is as follows: After the rust is carefully cleaned off by means of stiff wire brushes, a tacky paint is applied. The paper is then covered over and tightly pressed upon the painted surface, the joints of the paper slightly lapping. As soon as the paper is in place it is ready for the outside coat of paint. Iron and steel girders and beams subjected to the action of smoke and gases may thus be admirably protected from decomposition.

«Anti-Rust Paper for Needles.»—This is paper covered with logwood, and prepared from a material to which fine graphite powder has been added, and which has been sized with glue and alum. It is used for wrapping around steel goods, such as sewing needles, etc., and protecting them against rust. According to Lake, the paper is treated with sulphuric acid, like vegetable parchment, the graphite being sprinkled on before the paper is put into the water.

«Rust Paper.»—Rust paper is produced by coating strong packing paper with linseed-oil varnish, size, or any other binder, and sprinkling on the powder given in previous formula. For use the paper must be moistened with petroleum.

«Anti-Rust Pastes.»—I.—This preparation serves for removing rust already present, as well as for preventing same, by greasing the article with it: Melt 5 parts of crude vaseline on the water bath, and mix with 5 parts of finely levigated powdered pumice stone into a uniform mass. To the half-way cooled mass add 1/2 part of crude acid oxalate of potassium (sorrel salt) in a finely powdered state and grind into complete homogeneity.

II.—Dry tallow, 25 parts; white wax, 23 parts; olive oil, 22 parts; oil of turpentine, 25 parts; mineral oil, 10 parts. Apply with a brush at the fusing temperature of the mixture.

«Rust Prevention for Iron Pipes.»—The pieces of pipe are coated with tar and filled with light wood sawdust, which is set afire. This method will fully protect the iron from rust for an unlimited period, rendering a subsequent coat altogether superfluous.

«Rust Preventive for Tools, etc.»—I.—To preserve tools, dies, etc., from rust, they should be greased well with yellow vaseline. To use oil is not advisable, since all oils, except the dear ones, which are too expensive for this purpose, contain a certain percentage of acid that has an injurious effect upon the steel and iron articles. For greasing the cavities use a hard brush.

II.—Carefully heat benzine and add half its weight of white wax, which dissolves completely in this ratio. This solution is applied to the tools by means of a brush. It is also said to protect against the action of acidiferous fumes.

III.—Take a pound of vaseline and melt with it 2 ounces of blue ointment—what druggists call one-third—and add, to give it a pleasant odor, a few drops of oil of wintergreen, cinnamon, or sassafras. When thoroughly mixed pour into a tin can—an old baking-powder can will do. Keep a rag saturated with the preventive to wipe tools that are liable to rust.

«To Separate Rusty Pieces.»—By boiling the objects in petroleum, success is {626} certain. It is necessary to treat them with alcohol or spirit to avoid subsequent oxidation, petroleum being in itself an oxidant.

«To Protect Zinc Roofing from Rust.»—Zinc sheets for roofing can easily be protected against rust by the following simple process. Clean the plates by immersing them in water to which 5 per cent of sulphuric acid has been added, then wash with pure water, allow to dry and coat with asphalt varnish. Asphalt varnish is prepared by dissolving 1 to 2 parts asphalt in 10 parts benzine; the solution should be poured evenly over the plates, and the latter placed in an upright position to dry.

RUST SPOT REMOVER: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

SACCHARINE IN FOOD: See Food.

SADDLE GALLS: See Veterinary Formulas.

SADDLE SOAP: See Soap.

SALAMANDRINE DESSERT: See Pyrotechnics.

SALICYL (SWEET): See Dentifrices.

SALICYLIC ACID IN FOOD: See Foods.

SALICYLIC SOAP: See Soap.

«Salts, Effervescent»

Granulated effervescent salts are produced by heating mixtures of powdered citric acid, tartaric acid, sodium bicarbonate, and sugar to a certain temperature, until they assume the consistency of a paste, which is then granulated and dried.

If effervescent caffeine citrate, anti-pyrin, lithium citrate, etc., are to be prepared, the powder need not be dried before effecting the mixture, but if sodium phosphate, sodium sulphate, or magnesium sulphate are to be granulated, the water of crystallization must first be removed by drying, otherwise a hard, insoluble and absolutely non-granulable mass will be obtained. Sodium phosphate must lose 60 per cent of its weight in drying, sodium sulphate 56 per cent, and magnesium sulphate 23 per cent.

Naturally, water and carbonic acid escape on heating, and the loss will increase with the rise of temperature. For the production of the granulation mass it must not exceed 158° F., and for drying the grains a temperature of 122° F. is sufficient.

The fineness of the mesh should vary according to the necessary admixture of sugar and the size of the grains.

If the ingredients should have a tendency to cling to the warm bottom, an effort should be made immediately upon the commencement of the reaction to cause a new portion of the surface to come in contact with the hot walls.

When the mass is of the consistency of paste it is pressed through a wire sieve, paper or a fabric being placed underneath. Afterwards dry at sufficient heat. For wholesale manufacture, surfaces of large size are employed, which are heated by steam.

In the production of substances containing alkaloids, antipyrin, etc., care must be taken that they do not become colored. It is well, therefore, not to use heat, but to allow the mixture to stand in a moist condition for 12 hours, adding the medicinal substances afterwards and kneading the whole in a clay receptacle. After another 12 hours the mass will have become sufficiently paste-like, so that it can be granulated as above.

According to another much employed method, the mass is crushed with alcohol, then rubbed through a sieve, and dried rapidly. This process is somewhat dearer, owing to the great loss of alcohol, but presents the advantage of furnishing a better product than any other recipe.

Effervescent magnesium citrate cannot be very well made; for this reason the sulphate was used in lieu of the citrate. A part of the customary admixture of sulphate is replaced by sugar and aromatized with lemon or similar substances.

An excellent granulation mass is obtained from the following mixture by addition of alcohol:

Parts by weight Sodium bicarbonate 30 Tartaric acid 15 Citric acid 13 Sugar 30

The total loss of this mass through granulation amounts to from 10 to 15 per cent.

To this mass, medicinal substances, such as antipyrin, caffeine citrate, lithium citrate, lithium salicylate, phenacetin, piperacin, ferric carbonate, and pepsin may be added, as desired. {627}

In order to produce a quinine preparation, use tincture of quinine instead of alcohol for moistening; the quinine tincture is prepared with alcohol of 96 per cent.

Basis for Effervescent Salts.—

Sodium bicarbonate, dried and powdered 53 parts Tartaric acid, dried and powdered 28 parts Citric acid, uneffloresced crystals 18 parts

Powder the citric acid and add the tartaric acid and sodium bicarbonate. This basis may be mixed with many of the medicaments commonly used in the form of granular effervescent salts, in the proportion which will properly represent their doses and such substances as sodium phosphate, magnesium sulphate, citrated caffeine, potassium bromide, lithium citrate, potassium citrate, and others, will produce satisfactory products. A typical formula for effervescent sodium phosphate would be as follows:

Sodium phosphate, uneffloresced crystals 500 parts Sodium bicarbonate, dried and powdered 477 parts Tartaric acid, dried and powdered 252 parts Citric acid, uneffloresced crystals 162 parts

Dry the sodium phosphate on a water bath until it ceases to lose weight; after powdering the dried salt, mix it intimately with the citric acid and tartaric acid, then thoroughly incorporate the sodium bicarbonate. The mixed powders are now ready for granulation. The change in manipulation which is suggested to replace that usually followed, requires either a gas stove or a blue-flame coal-oil stove, and one of the small tin or sheet-iron ovens which are so largely used with these stoves. The stove itself will be found in almost every drug store; the oven costs from $1 to $2.

The oven is heated to about 200° F. (the use of a thermometer is desirable at first, but one will quickly learn how to regulate the flame to produce the desired temperature), and the previously mixed powders are placed on, preferably, a glass plate, which has been heated with the oven, about 1/2 pound being taken at a time, dependent upon the size of the oven. The door of the oven is now closed for about one minute, and, when opened, the whole mass will be found to be uniformly moist and ready to pass through a suitable sieve, the best kind and size being a tinned iron, No. 6. This moist, granular powder may then be placed upon the top of the oven, where the heat is quite sufficient to thoroughly dry the granules, and the operator may proceed immediately with the next lot of mixed powder, easily granulating 10 or more pounds within an hour.

Sugar has often been proposed as an addition to these salts, but experience has shown that the slight improvement in taste, which is sometimes questioned, does not offset the likelihood of darkening, which is apt to occur when the salt is being heated, or the change in color after it has been made several months. It should be remembered that in making a granular effervescent salt by the method which depends upon the liberation of water of crystallization, a loss in weight, amounting to about 10 per cent, will be experienced. This is due, in part, to the loss of water which is driven off, and also to a trifling loss of carbon dioxide when the powder is moistened.

«EFFERVESCENT POWDERS:»

«Magnesian Lemonade Powder.»—

Fine white sugar 2 pounds Magnesium carbonate 6 ounces Citric acid 4 ounces Essence of lemon 2 drachms

Rub the essence into the dry ingredients, work well together, sift, and bottle.

«Magnesian Orgeat Powder.»—

Fine sugar 1 pound Carbonate of magnesia 3 ounces Citric acid 1 ounce Oil of bitter almonds 3 drops Vanilla flavoring, quantity sufficient.

Thoroughly amalgamate the dry ingredients. Rub in the oil of almonds and sufficient essence of vanilla to give a slight flavor. Work all well together, sift, and bottle.

«Raspberryade Powder.»—

Fine sugar 2 pounds Carbonate of soda 2 ounces Tartaric acid 2 ounces Essence of raspberry 4 drachms Carmine coloring, quantity sufficient.

Rub the essence well into the sugar, and mix this with the soda and acid. Then work in sufficient liquid carmine to make the powder pale red, sift through a fine sieve, and pack in air-tight bottles. {628}

«Ambrosia Powder.»—

Fine sugar 2 pounds Carbonate of soda 12 drachms Citric acid 10 drachms Essence of ambrosia 20 drops

Amalgamate the whole of the above, and afterwards sift and bottle in the usual manner.

«Noyeau Powder.»—

Fine sugar 2 pounds Carbonate of soda 12 drachms Tartaric acid 10 drachms Essence of Noyeau 6 drops

After the dry ingredients have been mixed, and the essence rubbed into them, sift and bottle the powder.

«Lemon Sherbet.»—

Fine sugar 9 pounds Tartaric acid 40 ounces Carbonate of soda 36 ounces Oil of lemon 2 drachms

Having thoroughly mixed the dry ingredients, add the lemon, rubbing it well in between the hands; then sift the whole thrice through a fine sieve, and cork down tight.

As oil of lemon is used in this recipe, the blending must be quite perfect, otherwise when the powder is put in water the oil of lemon will float.

Any other flavoring may be substituted for lemon, and the sherbet named accordingly.

«Cream Soda Powder.»—

Fine sugar 30 parts Tartaric acid 7 parts Carbonate of soda 6 parts Finely powdered gum arabic 1 part Vanilla flavoring, quantity sufficient.

Proceed exactly as for lemon sherbet.

«Kissingen Salt.»—

Potassium chloride 17 parts Sodium chloride 367 parts Magnesium sulphate (dry) 59 parts Sodium bicarbonate 107 parts

For the preparation of Kissingen water, dissolve 1.5 grams in 180 grams of water.

«Vichy Salt.»—

Sodium bicarbonate 846 parts Potassium carbonate 38 parts Magnesium sulphate (dry) 38 parts Sodium chloride 77 parts

For making Vichy water dissolve 1 part in 200 parts of water.

«Seidlitz Salt.»—This is one of the many old names for magnesium sulphate. It has at various times been known as Seidlitz salt, Egra salt, canal salt, bitter salt, cathartic salt, English salt, and Epsom salt. Its earliest source was from the salt springs of Epsom in England and from this fact it took its last two names. For a long time sea-salt makers supplied the markets of the world. They procured it as a by-product in the making of salt. The bitter water that remained after the table salt had been crystallized out was found to contain it. Now it is chiefly procured from such minerals as dolomite, siliceous magnesium hydrate, and schistose rock containing the sulphide of magnesia. Many medical men deem it our best saline cathartic.

«SALTS, SMELLING.»

I.—Moisten coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate with a mixture of

Strong tincture of orris root 2 1/2 ounces Extract of violet 3 drachms Spirit of ammonia 1 drachm

II.—Fill suitable bottles with coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate, and add to the salt as much of the following solution as it will absorb:

Oil of orris 5 minims Oil of lavender flowers 10 minims Extract of violet 30 minims Stronger water of ammonia 2 ounces

SALVES: See Ointments.

«SAND:»

«Colored Sand.»—Sift fine white sand from the coarser particles and color it as follows:

I.—Blue.—Boil 106 parts of sand and 4 of Berlin blue with a small quantity of water, stirring constantly, and dry as soon as the sand is thoroughly colored.

II.—Black Sand.—Heat very fine quartz sand, previously freed from dust by sifting, and add to every 1/4 pound of it 6 to 8 spoonfuls of fat. Continue the heating as long as smoke or a flame is observed on stirring. The sand is finally washed and dried. This black sand will not rub off.

III.—Dark-Brown Sand.—Boil white sand in a decoction of brazil wood and dry it over a fire.

IV.—Rose-colored sand is obtained by mixing 100 parts of white sand with 4 parts of vermilion. {629}

«Lawn Sand.»—Lawn sand may be prepared by mixing crude ammonium sulphate, 65 parts, with fine sand, 35 parts. This mixture will kill daisies and plantains, but does not permanently injure the grass of lawns. A most effective method of killing plantains is to put, during dry weather, a full teaspoonful of common salt in the head of each.

SAND HOLES IN BRASS: See Castings.

SAND SOAP: See Soap.

SANDSTONE CEMENTS: See Adhesives.

SANDSTONE COATING: See Acid-Proofing.

SANDSTONES, TO REMOVE OIL SPOTS FROM: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

SAND, TO PREVENT ADHESION OF SAND TO CASTINGS: See Castings.

«SARSAPARILLA.»

Each fluidounce of Ayer’s sarsaparilla represents

Sarsaparilla root 10 parts Yellow dock root 8 parts Licorice root 8 parts Buckthorn bark 4 parts Burdock root 3 parts Senna leaves 2 parts Black cohosh root 2 parts Stillingia root 4 parts Poke root 1 part Cinchona red bark 2 parts Potassium iodide 4 parts

Solvent.—Alcohol, 10 1/2 minims to each fluidrachm; glycerin, syrup, water.

This is the formula as given by Dr. Charles H. Stowell, of the Ayer Company, to the daily papers, for advertising purposes.

Sarsaparilla Flavoring.—

Oil wintergreen 6 parts Oil sassafras 2 parts Oil cassia 1 1/2 parts Oil clove 1 1/2 parts Oil anise 1 1/2 parts Alcohol 60 parts

Sarsaparilla Syrup.—

Simple syrup 40 ounces Sarsaparilla flavoring 1 drachm Caramel to color.

SARSAPARILLA EXTRACT: See Essences and Extracts.

SAUCES, TABLE: See Condiments.

SATINWOOD: See Wood.

SAUSAGE COLOR: See Foods.

SAWDUST IN BRAN: See Bran.

SAWDUST FOR JEWELERS AND WATCHMAKERS: See Watchmakers’ Formulas.

SCALD HEAD, SOAP FOR: See Soap.

SCALD REMEDIES: See Cosmetics.

SCALE FOR PHOTOGRAPHIC REDUCTION: See Photography.

SCALE PAN CLEANER: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

SCALE IN BOILERS: See Boiler Compounds.

SCALE INSECTS, EXTERMINATION OF: See Insecticides.

SCALP WASHES: See Hair Preparations.

SCISSORS HARDENING: See Steel.

SCOURING LIQUIDS: See Laundry Preparations.

SCRATCH BRUSHING: See Plating, under Gilding.

«SCREWS:»

«To Prevent Screws from Rusting and Becoming Fast.»—Screws will sometimes rust in their seats, even when carefully oiled before driving them to their seats, but if they are anointed with a mixture of graphite and soft tallow they will remain unrusted and unaltered for years.

A screw rusted in may also be removed by placing the flat extremity of a red-hot rod of iron on it for 2 or 3 minutes. When the screw is heated, it will be found to turn quite easily.

SCREWS, BLUEING: See Steel.

SCREWS IN WATCHES: See Watchmakers’ Formulas. {630}

SEALING (BURNING) TRICK: See Pyrotechnics.

SEALING WAX: See Waxes.

«SEA SICKNESS.»

I.—To prevent sea sickness, take 2 or 3 grams of potassium bromide dissolved in plain or carbonated water every evening either with supper or just before retiring for several weeks before going on the voyage. During the voyage, breathing should be deep and a tight bandage should be worn around the abdomen.

II.—Menthol 0.1 part
Cocaine hydrochloride 0.2 parts
Alcohol 60.0 parts
Syrup 30.0 parts

A dessertspoonful to be taken at intervals of half an hour.

SEASONINGS: See Condiments.

SEED, BIRD: See Bird Foods.

SEEDS, TESTS FOR FOREIGN: See Foods.

SEIDLITZ POWDERS: See Salts (Effervescent).

SELTZER WATER: See Water.

«SERPENTS, PHARAOH’S.»

An old form consisted of pellets of a very poisonous mercurial compound which gave off dangerous fumes when heated. The “eggs” may be made of comparatively safe material by the following formula:

Potassium bichromate 2 parts Potassium nitrate 1 part White sugar 2 parts

Powder each ingredient separately, mix, and press into small paper cones. These must be kept from light and moisture.

Of course, neither this nor other chemical toys containing substances in the slightest degree harmful if swallowed should be placed in the hands of children not old enough fully to understand the danger of eating or even tasting unknown things.

SERVIETTES MAGIQUES: See Polishes.

SETTING OF TOOLS: See Tool Setting.

SEWING-MACHINE OIL: See Lubricants.

SHAMPOO LOTIONS AND PASTES: See Hair Restorers and Soaps.

SHARPENING PASTES: See Razor Pastes.

SHARPENING STONES: See Whetstones.

«SHAVING PASTE.»

An emulsion of paraffine wax, melting at 131° F., should be used. This is prepared with 25 per cent of wax and 2 per cent of tragacanth, the wax being melted and mixed with the tragacanth previously made into a mucilage with some of the water. The addition of a little stearine or lard renders the emulsification of the wax easier, while about 10 per cent of alcohol makes the preparation more agreeable to use. The fatty odor of the preparation may be covered by the addition of 1/2 to 1 per cent of lavender oil, and the finished product then appears as a thick white cream. In use a small quantity is rubbed over the area to be shaved and the razor immediately applied. As the water in the emulsion evaporates, the particles of wax previously distributed in the emulsion become coherent and fill up the depressions in the surface of the skin from which the hairs arise, thus forming a mechanical support during the passage of the razor. The quantity required is very small, 1 ounce being sufficient for shaving the face about 6 times.

SHAVING SOAP: See Soap.

SHEEP-DIPS: See Disinfectants.

SHEEP DISEASES: See Veterinary Formulas.

«SHELL CAMEOS.»

If shell cameos and corals have become too hot in cementing and cracks have appeared in consequence, olive oil is applied and allowed to soak in by heating. The same process is employed for shell cameos which have developed white fissures, owing to being filed smaller.

SHELL, IMITATION OF: See Casein Compounds.

SHELLS, LUBRICANTS FOR REDRAWING: See Lubricants. {631}

SHELL POLISHES: See Polishes.

SHELLAC: See Varnishes.

«SHELLAC BLEACHING.»

In bleaching, shellac is brought into contact with an acidified solution of chloride of lime for some time, then washed, kneaded in hot water, placed back into the chloride of lime solution, and brushed. Through this treatment with the chloride of lime solution the bleached shellac sometimes loses its solubility in alcohol, which, however, can be restored if the shellac is melted in boiling water, or if it is moistened with a little ether in a well-closed vessel. A quantity of ether in the proportion of 1 part to 20 parts shellac is sufficient. Great caution is recommended in the handling of ether. The ether vapors easily ignite when in proximity to a burning light and a mixture of ether vapor and atmospheric air may cause most vehement explosions. After an action of the ether upon the shellac for several hours, the alcohol necessary to dissolve it may either be added directly or the shellac moistened with ether is placed in the open air for half an hour in a dish, after which time the ether will have evaporated and the shellac can then be dissolved by the use of alcohol.

Bleached shellac is known to lose its solubility in alcohol, especially if treated with chlorine in bleaching. This solubility can be readily restored, however, by first moistening the rosin with 1/20 its weight of ether, placing it in a closed vessel and allowing it to swell there. Shellac thus treated becomes perfectly soluble again.

«SHIMS IN ENGINE BRASSES.»

In taking up the wear of engine brasses on wrist pin or crosshead pin when the key is driven clear down, back out the key and instead of putting in sheet-iron shims, put in a small piece of pine wood of just the right thickness to allow the key to come even with the under side of the strap, then pour in melted babbitt. A hole must be drilled through the flange of the brasses to allow for pouring the babbitt.

Every engineer knows the trouble it is to put several shims between the brass box and the end of the strap, especially if the box is a round-end one, as many are. By using the method described, brasses may be worn up much closer, even if worn through; the babbitt will form part of the bearing.

«Shoe Dressings»

(See also Leather.)

«Acid-Free Blacking.»—

Lampblack 27–36 parts Bone black 3 parts Syrup 60–70 parts

Put in a kettle and under gentle heat stir together until a smooth, homogeneous mass has been attained. In another kettle put 3 parts of finely shredded gutta percha and warm over an open fire until it begins to run, then add, with constant stirring, 5 parts of olive oil, continuing the heat until the gum is completely dissolved. When this occurs dissolve in 1 part of stearine, and add the whole while still hot in a slow stream, and under diligent and constant stirring, to the mixture of syrup and blacks. Continue the agitation of the mass until it is completely homogeneous. Now dissolve 4 parts of Senegal gum in 12 parts of water, and add the solution to the foregoing mass. Stir well in and finally add sufficient mirbane (about 1/5 part) to perfume.

«Blacking Pastes.»—While shellac is not soluble in water alone, it is soluble in water carrying borax, the alkaline carbonates, etc. In paste blacking the object of the sulphuric acid is to remove from the bone black the residual calcium phosphate. The ordinary bone black of commerce consists of only about 10 per cent of carbon, the residue being chiefly calcium phosphate. This is the reason that we cannot obtain a pure black color from it, but a dirty brown. To make a good blacking, one that is of a black in color, either use purified bone black, or a mineral acid (sulphuric or hydrochloric acid) with crude bone black. The residual acid is entirely neutralized by the sodium carbonate and has no bad effect on the leather. The following formula contains no acid and makes a good paste:

I.—Marseilles soap 122 parts
Potassium carbonate 61 parts
Beeswax 500 parts
Water 2,000 parts

Mix and boil together with occasional stirring until a smooth, homogeneous paste is obtained, then add, a little at a time, and under constant stirring, the following: {632}

Rock candy, powdered 153 parts Gum arabic, powdered 61 parts Ivory black 1,000 parts

Stir until homogeneous, then pour, while still hot, into boxes.

The following makes a very brilliant and durable black polish for shoes:

II.—Bone black 40 parts
Sulphuric acid 10 parts
Fish oil 10 parts
Sodium carbonate crystal 18 parts
Sugar, common brown, or molasses 20 parts
Liquid glue, prepared as below 20 parts
Water, sufficient.

Soak 10 parts of good white glue in 40 parts of cold water for 4 hours, then dissolve by the application of gentle heat, and add 1.8 parts of glycerine (commercial). Set aside. Dissolve the sodium carbonate in sufficient water to make a cold saturated solution (about 3 parts of water at 60° F.), and set aside. In an earthenware vessel moisten the bone black with a very little water, and stirring it about with a stick, add the sulphuric acid, slowly. Agitate until a thick dough-like mass is obtained, then add and incorporate the fish oil. Any sort of animal oil, or even colza will answer, but it is best to avoid high-smelling oils. Add a little at a time, and under vigorous stirring, sufficient of the saturated sodium carbonate solution to cause effervescence. Be careful not to add so freely as to liquefy the mass. Stir until effervescence ceases, then add the molasses or sugar, the first, if a soft, damp paste is desired, and the latter if a dryer one is wanted. Finally, add, a little at a time, and under constant stirring, sufficient of the solution of glue to make a paste of the desired consistency. The exact amount of this last ingredient that is necessary must be learned by experience. It is a very important factor, as it gives the finished product a depth and brilliancy that it could not otherwise have, as well as a certain durability, in which most of the blackings now on the market are deficient.

III.—Soap 122 parts
Potassium carbonate 61 parts
Beeswax 500 parts
Water 2,000 parts

Mix and boil together until a smooth, homogeneous paste is obtained, then add

Bone black 1,000 parts Powdered sugar 153 parts Powdered gum arabic 61 parts

Mix thoroughly, remove from the fire, and pour while still hot into boxes.

«Boot-Top Liquid.»—

Solution of muriate of tin 3 drachms French chalk (in powder) 1 ounce Salt of sorrel 1/2 ounce Flake white 1 ounce Burnt alum 1/2 ounce Cuttle-fish bones (powdered) 1 ounce White arsenic 1 ounce Boiling water 1 quart

«Brown Dressing for Untanned Shoes.»—

Yellow wax 30 parts Soap 12 parts Nankin yellow 15 parts Oil of turpentine 100 parts Alcohol 12 parts Water 100 parts

Dissolve in the water bath the wax in the oil of turpentine; dissolve, also by the aid of heat, the soap in the water, and the Nankin yellow (or in place of that any of the yellow coal-tar colors) in the alcohol. Mix the solutions while hot, and stir constantly until cold. The preparation is smeared over the shoes in the usual way, rubbed with a brush until evenly distributed, and finally polished with an old silk or linen cloth.

«Heel Polish.»—

I.—Carnauba wax 5 parts
Japanese wax 5 parts
Paraffine 5 parts
Oil of turpentine 50 parts
Lampblack 1 part
Wine black 2 parts

Melt the wax and the paraffine, and when this has become lukewarm, add the turpentine oil, and finally the lampblack and the wine black. When the black color has become evenly distributed, pour, while still lukewarm, into tin cans.

II.—Melt together Japanese wax, 100 parts; carnauba wax, 100 parts; paraffine, 100 parts; and mix with turpentine oil, 500 parts, as well as a trituration of lampblack, 10 parts; wine black, 20 parts; turpentine oil, 70 parts. {633}

«LIQUID BLACKINGS.»

The following formulas make a product of excellent quality:

I.—Ivory black 120 parts
Brown sugar 90 parts
Olive oil 15 parts
Stale beer 500 parts

Mix the black, sugar and olive oil into a smooth paste, adding the beer, a little at a time, under constant stirring. Let stand for 24 hours, then put into flasks, lightly stoppered.

II.—Ivory black 200 parts
Molasses 200 parts
Gallnuts, bruised 12 parts
Iron sulphate 12 parts
Sulphuric acid 40 parts
Boiling water 700 parts

Mix the molasses and ivory black in an earthen vessel. In an iron vessel let the gallnuts infuse in 100 parts of boiling water for 1 hour, then strain and set aside. In another vessel dissolve the iron sulphate; in another, 100 parts of the boiling water. One-half of this solution is added at once to the molasses mixture. To the remaining half add the sulphuric acid, and pour the mixture, a little at a time, under constant stirring, into the earthen vessel containing the molasses mixture. The mass will swell up and thicken, but as soon as it commences to subside, add the infusion of gallnuts, also under vigorous stirring. If a paste blacking is desired the preparation is now complete. For a liquid black add the remaining portion of the boiling water (500 parts), stir thoroughly and bottle.

«Patent-Leather Polish.»—

Yellow wax or ceresine 3 ounces Spermaceti 1 ounce Oil of turpentine 11 ounces Asphaltum varnish 1 ounce Borax 80 grains Frankfort black 1 ounce Prussian blue 150 grains

Melt the wax, add the borax, and stir until an emulsion has been formed. In another pan melt the spermaceti; add the varnish, previously mixed with the turpentine; stir well and add to the wax; lastly add the colors.

«Preservatives for Shoe Soles.»—I.—This preparation, destined for impregnating leather shoe soles, is produced as follows: Grind 50 parts of linseed oil with 1 part of litharge; next heat for 2 hours to the boiling point with 1/4 part of zinc vitriol, which is previously calcined (dehydrated). The composition obtained in this manner, when perfectly cold, is mixed with 8 parts of benzine and filled in bottles or other receptacles. To render this preservative effective, the soles must be coated with it until the leather absorbs it.

II.—Dissolve ordinary household soap in water; on the other hand, dissolve an aluminum salt—the cheapest is the commercial aluminum sulphate—in water and allow both solutions to cool. Now pour the aluminum salt solution, with constant stirring, into the soap solution, thereby obtaining a very fine precipitate of aluminum oleate. The washed-out residue is dried with moderate heat. By adding 10 to 30 per cent to petroleum with slight heating, a solid petroleum of vaseline-like consistency is received, which may be still further solidified by additional admixture. A 10 per cent solution of aluminum oleate in petroleum is a very excellent agent for preserving the soles, a single saturation of the soles sufficing forever. The sole will last about 1 year.

III.—The following mixture is prepared by melting together over the fire in an enameled iron vessel: Vaseline, 400 parts; ceresine, 100 parts. The melted mass, which is used as a grease, is filled in wooden boxes or tin cans.

IV.—The oleic acid of the stearine factories is heated with strong alcohol and sulphuric acid. Take 16 parts of oleic acid, 2 parts of alcohol (90 per cent), and 1 part of concentrated sulphuric acid. The oleic-acid ether formed separates as a thin brownish oil. It is liberated from free sulphuric acid and the alcohol in excess by agitation with warm water and allowing to settle. This oleic-acid ether is mixed with the same weight of fish oil, and 4 to 8 parts of nitro-benzol are added per 1,000 parts to disguise the odor.

«TAN AND RUSSET SHOE POLISHES:»

«To Renovate and Brighten Russet and Yellow Shoes.»—First, clean off all dirt and dust with a good stiff brush, then with a sponge dipped in benzine go over the leather, repeating the process as soon as the benzine evaporates. A few wipings will bring back the original color. Then use a light-yellow dressing and brush well.

The liquid application consists usually of a solution of yellow wax and soap in oil of turpentine, and it should be a matter of no difficulty whatever to compound a mixture of this character at least equal {634} to the preparations on the market. As a type of the mixture occasionally recommended we may quote the following:

I.—Yellow wax 4 ounces
Pearl ash 4 drachms
Yellow soap 1 drachm
Spirit of turpentine 7 ounces
Phosphine (aniline) 4 grains
Alcohol 4 drachms
Water, a sufficient quantity.

Scrape the wax fine and add it, together with the ash and soap, to 12 ounces of water. Boil all together until a smooth, creamy mass is obtained; remove the heat and add the turpentine and the aniline (previously dissolved in the alcohol). Mix thoroughly, and add sufficient water to bring the finished product up to 1 1/2 pints.

II.—Water 18 parts
Rosin oil 4 1/2 parts
Spirit of sal ammoniac, concentrated 1 1/5 parts
White grain soap 1.93 parts
Russian glue 1.59 parts
Brown rock candy 0.57 parts
Bismarck brown 0.07 parts

Boil all the ingredients together, excepting the pigment; after all has been dissolved, add the Bismarck brown and filter. The dressing is applied with a sponge.

III.—Beeswax, yellow 2 ounces
Linseed oil 3 ounces
Oil turpentine 10 ounces

Dissolve by heat of a water bath, and add 1 1/4 ounces soap shavings, hard yellow. Dissolve this in 14 ounces of hot water.

IV.—A simpler form of liquid mixture consists of equal parts of yellow wax and palm oil dissolved with the aid of heat in 3 parts of oil of turpentine.

V.—Soft or green soap 1 ounce
Linseed oil, raw 2 ounces
Annatto solution (in oil) 7 ounces
Yellow wax 2 ounces
Gum turpentine 7 ounces
Water 7 ounces

Dissolve the soap in the water and add the solution of annatto; melt the wax in the oil of turpentine, and gradually stir in the soap solution, stirring until cold.

The paste to accompany the foregoing mixtures is composed of yellow wax and rosin thinned with petrolatum, say 4 parts of wax, 1 part of rosin, and 12 parts of petrolatum.

«Paste Dressings for Russet Shoes.»—The paste dressings used on russet leather consist of mixtures of wax with oil and other vehicles which give a mixture of proper working quality.

A simple formula is:

I.—Yellow wax 9 parts
Oil of turpentine 20 parts
Soap 1 part
Boiling water 20 parts

Dissolve the wax in the turpentine on a water bath and the soap in the water and stir the two liquids together until the mixture becomes sufficiently cold to remain homogeneous.

Another formula in which stearine is used is appended:

II.—Wax 1 part
Stearine 2 parts
Linseed oil 1 part
Oil of turpentine 6 parts
Soap 1 part
Water 10 parts

Proceed as above.

Carnauba wax is often used by manufacturers of such dressings instead of beeswax, as it is harder and takes a higher polish. These dressings are sometimes colored with finely ground yellow ocher or burnt umber. If the leather be badly worn, however, it is best to apply a stain first, and afterwards the waxy dressing.

Suitable stains are made by boiling safflower in water, and annatto is also used in the same way, the two being sometimes mixed together. Oxalic acid darkens the color of the safflower. Aniline colors would also doubtless yield good results with less trouble and expense. By adding finely ground lampblack to the waxy mixture instead of ocher, it would answer as a dressing for black leather.

«WATERPROOF SHOE DRESSINGS.»

I.—Caoutchouc 10 parts
Petroleum 10 parts
Carbon disulphide 10 parts
Shellac 40 parts
Lampblack 20 parts
Oil lavender 1 part
Alcohol 200 parts

Upon the caoutchouc in a bottle pour the carbon disulphide, cork well, and let stand a few days, or until the caoutchouc has become thoroughly gelatinized or partly dissolved. Then add the petroleum, oil of lavender, and alcohol, next the shellac in fine powder, and heat it to about 120° F., taking care that as little as possible is lost by evaporation. When the substances are all dissolved and the liquid is tolerably clear, add the {635} lampblack, mix thoroughly, and fill at once into small bottles.

II.—A waterproof blacking which will give a fine polish without rubbing, and will not injure the leather:

Beeswax 18 parts Spermaceti 6 parts Turpentine oil 66 parts Asphalt varnish 5 parts Powdered borax 1 part Frankfort black 5 parts Prussian blue 2 parts Nitro-benzol 1 part

Melt the wax, add the powdered borax and stir till a kind of jelly has formed. In another pan melt the spermaceti, add the asphalt varnish, previously mixed with the oil of turpentine, stir well, and add to the wax. Lastly add the color previously rubbed smooth with a little of the mass. The nitro-benzol gives fragrance.

«Waterproof Varnish for Beach Shoes.»—

Yellow.—

Water 150 parts Borax 5 parts Glycerine 3 parts Spirit of ammonia 1 part White shellac 25 parts Yellow pigment, water soluble 1 part Formalin, a few drops.

Orange.—

Water 150 parts Borax 5 parts Glycerine 2 parts Spirit of ammonia 1 part Ruby shellac 22 parts Orange, water soluble 1 part Brown 0.3 parts Formalin 0.1 part

Pale Brown.—

Water 150 parts Borax 5 parts Glycerine 2 parts Spirit of ammonia 0.25 parts White shellac 25 parts Yellow, water soluble 8 parts Orange 0.3 parts Formalin 0.1 part

Stir the glycerine and the spirit of ammonia together in a special vessel before putting both into the kettle. It is also advisable, before the water boils, to pour a little of the nearly boiling water into a clean vessel and to dissolve the colors therein with good stirring, adding this solution to the kettle after the shellac has been dissolved.

White Shoe Dressing.—

I.—Cream of tartar 3 ounces
Oxalic acid 1 ounce
Alum 1 ounce
Milk 3 pints

Mix and rub on the shoes. When they are thoroughly dry, rub them with a mixture of prepared chalk and magnesium carbonate.

II.—Water 136 parts
Fine pipe clay 454 parts
Shellac, bleached 136 parts
Borax, powdered 68 parts
Soft soap 8 parts
Ultramarine blue 5 parts

Boil the shellac in the water, adding the borax, and keeping up the boiling until a perfect solution is obtained, then stir in the soap (5 or 6 parts of “ivory” soap, shaved up, and melted with 2 or 3 parts of water, is better than common soft soap), pipe clay, and ultramarine. Finally strain through a hair-cloth sieve. This preparation, it is said, leaves absolutely nothing to be desired. A good deal of stiffness may be imparted to the leather by it. The addition of a little glycerine would remedy this. The old application should be wiped away before a new one is put on. This preparation is suitable for military shoes, gloves, belts, and uniforms requiring a white dressing.

SHOES, WATERPROOFING: See Waterproofing.

SHIO LIAO: See Adhesives, under Cements.

SHIP COMPOSITIONS AND PAINTS: See Paints.

SHOW BOTTLES FOR DRUGGISTS: See Bottles.

«SHOW CASES.»

Dents in show cases and counters, and, indeed, almost all forms of “bruises” on shop and other furniture, may be removed by the exercise of a little patience, and proceeding as follows: Sponge the place with water as warm as can be borne by the hand. Take a piece of filtering or other bibulous paper large enough to fold 6 or 8 times and yet cover the bruise, wet in warm water and place over the spot. Take a warm (not hot) smoothing iron and hold it on the paper until the moisture is evaporated (renewing its heat, if necessary). If the bruise does not yield to the first trial, repeat the process. A dent as large as a {636} dollar and 1/4 inch deep in the center, in black walnut of tolerably close texture, was brought up smooth and level with the surrounding surface by two applications of the paper and iron as described. If the bruise be small, a sponge dipped in warm water placed upon it, renewing the warmth from time to time, will be all-sufficient. When the dent is removed and the wood dry, the polish can be restored by any of the usual processes. If the wood was originally finished in oil, rub with a little boiled linseed cut with acetic acid (oil, 8 parts; acid, 1 part). If it was “French polished,” apply an alcoholic solution of shellac, and let dry; repeat if necessary, and when completely dry proceed as follows: Rub the part covered with shellac, first with crocus cloth and a few drops of olive oil, until the ridges, where the new and old polish come together, disappear; wipe with a slightly greased but otherwise clean rag and finish with putz pomade.

SHOW-CASE SIGNS: See Lettering.

SHOW-CASES, TO PREVENT DIMMING OF: See Glass.

«Siccatives»

The oldest drier is probably litharge, a reddish-yellow powder, consisting of lead and oxygen. Formerly it was ground finely in oil, either pure or with admixture of white vitriol and added to the dark oil paints. Litharge and sugar of lead are used to-day only rarely as drying agents, having been displaced by the liquid manganese siccatives, which are easy to handle. E. Ebelin, however, is of the opinion that the neglect of the lead compounds has not been beneficial to decorative painting. Where these mediums were used in suitable quantities hard-drying coatings were almost always obtained. Ebelin believes that formerly there used to be less lamentation on account of tacky floors, pews, etc., than at the present time.

Doubtless a proposition to grind litharge into the oil again will not be favorably received, although some old master painters have by no means discarded this method.