Chapter I: II III IV V VI (5)

The transfer taken off as described is a reverse of the original print. If the question of right and left is not important this reversal will seldom be objectionable, for it is easy to read backward what few letters generally occur. However, if desired, the paper may be held up to the light and examined from the back, or placed before a mirror and viewed by means of its reflected image, when the true relations of right and left will be seen. Moreover, if sufficiently important, an exact counterpart of the original may be taken from the reversed copy by laying another sheet face downward upon it, and rubbing on the back of the fresh sheet just as was done in making the reversed copy. The impression thus produced will be fainter than the first, but almost always it can be made dark enough to show a distinct outline which may afterwards be retouched with a lead pencil.

For indicator cards the paper is prepared by coating one surface with a suitable compound, usually zinc oxide mixed with a little starch and enough glue to make it adhere. After drying it is passed between calendar rolls under great pressure. The various brands manufactured for the trade, though perhaps equally good for indicator diagrams, are not equally well suited for copying. If paper of firmer texture could be prepared with the same surface finish, probably much larger copies could be produced.

Other kinds of paper, notably the heavy plate papers used for some of the best trade catalogues, possess this transfer property to a slight degree, though they will not receive marks from a metallic pencil. The latter feature would seem to recommend them for transfer purposes, making them less likely to become soiled by contact with metallic objects, but so far no kind has been found which will remove enough ink to give copies anywhere near as dark as the indicator paper.

Fairly good transfers can be made from almost any common printers’ ink, but some inks copy much better than others, and some yield only the faintest impressions. The length of time since a picture was printed does not seem to determine its copying quality. Some very old prints can be copied better than new ones; in fact, it was by accidental transfer to an indicator card from a book nearly a hundred years old that the peculiar property of this “metallic” paper was discovered.

«Copying Process on Wood.»—If wood surfaces are exposed to direct sunlight the wood will exhibit, after 2 weeks action, a browning of dark tone in the exposed places. Certain parts of the surface being covered up during the entire exposure to the sun, they retain their original shade and are set off clearly and sharply against the parts browned by the sunlight. Based on this property of the {223} wood is a sun-copying process on wood. The method is used for producing tarsia in imitation on wood. A pierced stencil of tin, wood, or paper is laid on a freshly planed plate of wood, pasting it on in places to avoid shifting, and put into a common copying frame. To prevent the wood from warping a stretcher is employed, whereupon expose to the sun for from 8 to 14 days. After the brown shade has appeared the design obtained is partly fixed by polishing or by a coating of varnish, lacquer, or wax. Best suited for such works are the pine woods, especially the 5-year fir and the cembra pine, which, after the exposure, show a yellowish brown tone of handsome golden gloss, that stands out boldly, especially after subsequent polishing, and cannot be replaced by any stain or by pyrography. The design is sharper and clearer than that produced by painting. In short, the total effect is pleasing.

«How to Reproduce Old Prints.»—Prepare a bath as follows: Sulphuric acid, 3 to 5 parts (according to the antiquity of print, thickness of paper, etc.); alcohol, 3 to 5 parts; water, 100 parts. In this soak the print from 5 to 15 minutes (the time depending on age, etc., as above), remove, spread face downward on a glass or ebonite plate, and wash thoroughly in a gentle stream of running water. If the paper is heavy, reverse the sides, and let the water flow over the face of the print. Remove carefully and place on a heavy sheet of blotting paper, cover with another, and press out every drop of water possible. Where a wringing machine is convenient and sufficiently wide, passing the blotters and print through the rollers is better than mere pressing with the hands. The print, still moist, is then laid face upward on a heavy glass plate (a marble slab or a lithographers’ stone answers equally well), and smoothed out. With a very soft sponge go over the surface with a thin coating of gum-arabic water. The print is now ready for inking, which is done exactly as in lithographing, with a roller and printers’ or lithographers’ ink, cut with oil of turpentine. Suitable paper is then laid on and rolled with a dry roller. This gives a reverse image of the print, which is then applied to a zinc plate or a lithographers’ stone, and as many prints as desired pulled off in the usual lithographing method. When carefully done and the right kind of paper used, it is said that the imitation of the original is perfect in every detail.

«To Copy Old Letters, Manuscripts, etc.»—If written in the commercial ink of the period from 1860 to 1864, which was almost universally an iron and tannin or gallic-acid ink, the following process may succeed: Make a thin solution of glucose, or honey, in water, and with this wet the paper in the usually observed way in copying recent documents in the letter book, put in the press, and screw down tightly. Let it remain in the press somewhat longer than in copying recent documents. When removed, before attempting to separate the papers, expose to the fumes of strong water of ammonia, copy side downward.

«CORDAGE»:

See also Ropes.

«Strong Twine.»—An extraordinarily strong pack thread or cord, stronger even than the so-called “Zuckerschnur,” may be obtained by laying the thread of fibers in a strong solution of alum, and then carefully drying them.

«Preservation of Fishing Nets.»—The following recipe for the preservation of fishing nets is also applicable to ropes, etc., in contact with water. Some have been subjected to long test.

For 40 parts of cord, hemp, or cotton, 3 parts of kutch, 1 part of blue vitriol, 1/2 part of potassium chromate, and 2 1/2 parts of wood tar are required. The kutch is boiled with 150 parts of water until dissolved, and then the blue vitriol is added. Next, the net is entered and the tar added. The whole should be stirred well, and the cordage must boil 5 to 8 minutes. Now take out the netting, lay it in another vessel, cover up well, and leave alone for 12 hours. After that it is dried well, spread out in a clean place, and coated with linseed oil. Not before 6 hours have elapsed should it be folded together and put into the water. The treatment with linseed oil may be omitted.

CORDAGE LUBRICANT: See Lubricants.

CORDAGE WATERPROOFING: See Waterproofing.

CORDIALS: See Wines and Liquors.

«CORKS:»

«Impervious Corks.»—Corks which have been steeped in petrolatum are said to be an excellent substitute for glass stoppers. Acid in no way affects them and chemical fumes do not cause decay in them, neither do they become fixed by a blow or long disuse. {224}

«Non-Porous Corks.»—For benzine, turpentine, and varnish cans, immerse the corks in hot melted paraffine. Keep them under about 5 minutes; hold them down with a piece of wire screen cut to fit the dish in which you melt the paraffine. When taken out lay them on a screen till cool. Cheap corks can in this way be made gas- and air-tight, and can be cut and bored with ease.

«Substitute for Cork.»—Wood pulp or other ligneous material may be treated to imitate cork. For the success of the composition it is necessary that the constituents be mingled and treated under special conditions. The volumetric proportions in which these constituents combine with the best results are the following: Wood pulp, 3 parts; cornstalk pith, 1 part; gelatin, 1 part; glycerine, 1 part; water, 4 parts; 20 per cent formic-aldehyde solution, 1 part; but the proportions may be varied. After disintegrating the ligneous substances, and while these are in a moist and hot condition they are mingled with the solution of gelatin, glycerine, and water. The mass is stirred thoroughly so as to obtain a homogeneous mixture. The excess of moisture is removed. As a last operation the formic aldehyde is introduced, and the mass is left to coagulate in this solution. The formic aldehyde renders the product insoluble in nearly all liquids. So it is in this last operation that it is necessary to be careful in producing the composition properly. When the operation is terminated the substance is submitted to pressure during its coagulation, either by molding it at once into a desired form, or into a mass which is afterwards converted into the finished product.

CORKS, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods, under Miscellaneous Methods.

CORK TO METAL, FASTENING: See Adhesives, under Pastes.

CORK AS A PRESERVATIVE: See Preserving.

CORKS, WATERPROOFING: See Waterproofing.

«CORN CURES:»

I.—Salicylic-Acid Corn Cure.—Extract cannabis indica, 1 part, by measure; salicylic acid, 10 parts, by measure; oil of turpentine, 5 parts, by measure; acetic acid, glacial, 2 parts, by measure; cocaine, alkaloidal, 2 parts, by measure; collodion, elastic, sufficient to make 100 parts. Apply a thin coating every night, putting each layer directly on the preceding one. After a few applications, the mass drops off, bringing the indurated portion, and frequently the whole of the corn, off with it.

II.—Compound Salicylated Collodion Corn Cure.—Salicylic acid, 11 parts, by weight; extract of Indian hemp, 2 parts, by weight; alcohol, 10 parts, by weight; flexible collodion, U. S. P., a sufficient quantity to make 100 parts, by weight.

The extract is dissolved in the alcohol and the acid in about 50 parts, by weight, of collodion, the solutions mixed, and the liquid made up to the required amount. The Indian hemp is presumably intended to prevent pain; whether it serves this or any other useful purpose seems a matter of doubt. The acid is frequently used without this addition.

III.—Extract of cannabis indica, 90 grains; salicylic acid, 1 ounce; alcohol, 1 ounce; collodion enough to make 10 ounces. Soften the extract with the alcohol, then add the collodion, and lastly the acid.

IV.—Resorcin, 1 part, by weight; salicylic acid, 1 part, by weight; lactic acid, 1 part, by weight; collodion elasticum, 10 parts, by weight. Paint the corn daily for 5 or 6 days with the above solution and take a foot bath in very hot water. The corn will readily come off.

«Corn Plaster.»—Yellow wax, 24 parts, by weight; Venice turpentine, 3 parts, by weight; rosin, 2 parts, by weight; salicylic acid, 2 parts, by weight; balsam of Peru, 2 parts, by weight; lanolin, 4 parts, by weight.

«Corn Cure.»—Melt soap plaster, 85 parts, by weight, and yellow wax, 5 parts by weight, in a vapor bath, and stir finely ground salicylic acid, 10 parts, by weight, into it.

«Removal of Corns.»—The liquid used by chiropodists with pumice stone for the removal of corns and callosities is usually nothing more than a solution of potassa or concentrated lye, the pumice stone being dipped into the solution by the operator just before using.

«Treatment of Bunions.»—Wear right and left stockings and shoes, the inner edges of the sole of which are perfectly straight. The bunion is bathed night and morning in a 4 per cent solution of carbolic acid for a few minutes, followed by plain water. If, after several weeks, the bursa is still distended with fluid, it is aspirated. If the bunion is due to flatfoot, the arch of the foot must be restored by a plate. When the joints are enlarged because of gout or {225} rheumatism, the constitutional conditions must be treated. In other cases, osteotomy and tenotomy are required.

«The Treatment of Corns.»—Any corn may be speedily and permanently cured. The treatment is of three kinds—preventive, palliative, and curative.

I.—The preventive treatment lies in adopting such measures as will secure freedom from pressure and friction for the parts most liable to corns. To this end a well-fitting shoe is essential. The shoes should be of well-seasoned leather, soft and elastic, and should be cut to a proper model.

II.—The palliative treatment is generally carried out with chemical substances. The best method, is, briefly, as follows: A ring of glycerine jelly is painted around the circumference of the corn, to form a raised rampart. A piece of salicylic plaster mull is then cut to the size and shape of the central depression, and applied to the surface of the corn. This is then covered with a layer of glycerine jelly, and before it sets a pad of cotton wool is applied to the surface. This process is repeated as often as is necessary, until the horny layer separates and is cast off.

If the point of a sharp, thin-bladed knife be introduced at the groove which runs around the margin of the corn, and be made to penetrate toward its central axis, by the exercise of a little manual dexterity the horny part of the corn can be easily made to separate from the parts beneath.

III.—Any method of treatment to be curative must secure the removal of the entire corn, together with the underlying bursa. It is mainly in connection with the latter structure that complications, which alone make a corn a matter of serious import, are likely to arise. Freeland confidently advises the full and complete excision of corns, on the basis of his experience in upward of 60 cases.

Every precaution having been taken to render the operation aseptic, a spot is selected for the injection of the anæsthetic solution. The skin is rendered insensitive with ethyl chloride, and 5 minims of a 4 per cent solution of cocaine is injected into the subcutaneous tissue beneath the corn. After a wait of a few minutes the superficial parts of the site of the incision are rendered insensitive with ethyl chloride. Anæsthesia is now complete.

Two semielliptical incisions meeting at their extremities are made through the skin abound the circumference of the growth, care being taken that they penetrate well into the subcutaneous tissue. Seizing the parts included in the incision with a pair of dissecting forceps, a wedge-shaped piece of tissue—including the corn, a layer of skin and subcutaneous tissue, and the bursa if present—is dissected out. The oozing is pretty free, and it is sometimes necessary to torsion a small vessel; but the hemorrhage is never severe. The edges of the wound are brought together by one or two fine sutures; an antiseptic dressing is applied, and the wound is left to heal—primary union in a few days being the rule. The rapidity of the healing is often phenomenal. There is produced a scar tissue at the site of the corn, but this leads to no untoward results.

«Cosmetics»

«COLD CREAM.»

I.—Oil of almonds 425 parts
Lanolin 185 parts
White wax 62 parts
Spermaceti 62 parts
Borax 4.5 parts
Rose water 300 part

Melt together the first four ingredients, then incorporate the solution of borax in the rose water.

II.—Tragacanth 125 parts
Boric acid 100 parts
Glycerine 140 parts
Expressed oil of almonds 50 parts
Glyconine 50 parts
Oil of lavender 0.5 parts
Water enough to make 1,000 parts

Mix the tragacanth and the boric acid with the glycerine; add the almond oil, lavender oil, and egg glycerite, which have been previously well incorporated, and, lastly, add the water in divided portions until a clear jelly of the desired consistency is obtained.

III.—Oil of almonds 26 ounces
Castor oil (odorless) 6 ounces
Lard (benzoated) 8 ounces
White wax 8 ounces
Rose water (in winter less, in
summer more, than quantity named) 12 ounces
Orange-flower water 8 ounces
Oil of rose 15 minims
Extract of jasmine 6 drachms
Extract of cassia 4 drachms
Borax 2 ounces
Glycerine 4 ounces

{226}

Melt the oil of sweet almonds, wax, and lard together, and stir in the castor oil; make a solution of the borax in the glycerine and rose and orange-flower waters; add this solution, a little at a time, to the melted fat, stirring constantly to insure thorough incorporation; finally add the oil of rose dissolved in the extracts, and beat the ointment until cold.

IV.—Spermaceti (pure), 1/4 ounce; white wax (pure), 1/4 ounce; almond oil, 1/4 pound; butter of cocoa, 1/4 pound; lanolin, 2 ounces.

Melt and stir in 1 drachm of balsam of Peru. After settling, pour off the clear portion and add 2 fluidrachms of orange-flower water and stir briskly until it concretes.

«Camphorated Cold Cream.»—

Oil of sweet almonds 8 fluidounces White wax 1 ounce Spermaceti 1 ounce Camphor 1 ounce Rose water 5 fluidounces Borax (in fine powder) 4 drachms Oil of rose 10 drops

Melt the wax and spermaceti, add the oil of sweet almonds, in which the camphor has been dissolved with very gentle heat; then gradually add the rose water, in which the borax has previously been dissolved, beating or agitating constantly with a wooden spatula until cold. Lastly add the oil of rose.

«Petrolatum Cold Cream.»—

Petrolatum (white) 7 ounces Paraffine 1/2 ounce Lanolin 2 ounces Water 3 ounces Oil of rose 3 drops Alcohol 1 drachm

A small quantity of borax may be added, if desirable, and the perfume may be varied to suit the taste.

«LIP SALVES:»

«Pomades for the Lips.»—Lip pomatum which is said always to retain a handsome red color and never to grow rancid is prepared as follows:

I.—Paraffine 80.0 parts
Vaseline 80.0 parts
Anchusine 0.5 parts
Bergamot oil 1.0 part
Lemon peel 1.0 part

II.—Vaseline Pomade.—

Vaseline oil, white 1,000 parts Wax, white 300 part Geranium oil, African. 40 parts Lemon oil. 20 parts

III.—Rose Pomade.—

Almond oil 1,000 parts Wax, white 300 parts Alkannin 3 parts Geranium oil 20 parts

IV.—Yellow Pomade.—

Vaseline oil, white. 1,000 parts Wax, white 200 parts Spermaceti 200 parts Saffron surrogate. 10 parts Clove oil. 20 parts

V.—White Pomade.—

Vaseline oil, white 1,000 parts Wax, white. 300 parts Bitter almond oil, genuine. 10 parts Lemon oil 2 parts

VI.—Paraffine 49.0 parts
Vaseline. 49.0 parts
Oil of lemon. 0.75 parts
Oil of violet 0.75 parts
Carmine, quantity sufficient.

«Lipol.»—For treating sore, rough, or inflamed lips, apply the following night and morning, rubbing in well with the finger tips: Camphor, 1/2 ounce; menthol, 1/2 ounce; eucalyptol, 1 drachm; petrolatum (white), 1 pound; paraffine, 1/2 pound; alkanet root, 1/2 ounce; oil of bitter almonds, 15 drops; oil of cloves, 10 drops; oil of cassia, 5 drops. Digest the root in the melted paraffine and petrolatum, strain, add the other ingredients and pour into lip jars, hot.

«MANICURE PREPARATIONS:»

«Powdered Nail Polishes.»—

I.—Tin oxide 8 drachms
Carmine 1/4 drachm
Rose oil. 6 drops
Neroli oil. 5 drops

II.—Cinnabar. 1 drachm
Infusorial earth. 8 drachms

III.—Putty powder (fine). 4 drachms
Carmine. 2 grains
Oil of rose. 1 drop

IV.—White castile soap. 1 part
Hot water 16 parts
Zinc chloride solution, 10 per cent, quantity sufficient.

Dissolve the soap in the water and to the solution add the zinc-chloride solution until no further precipitation occurs. Let stand over night; pour off the supernatant fluid, wash the precipitate {227} well with water, and dry at the ordinary temperature. Carmine may be added if desired.

«Polishing Pastes for the Nails.»—

I.—Talcum. 5 drachms
Stannous oxide. 3 drachms
Powdered tragacanth 5 grains
Glycerine 1 drachm
Rose water, quantity sufficient.
Solution of carmine sufficient to tint.

Make paste.

For softening the nails, curing hangnails, etc., an ointment is sometimes used consisting of white petrolatum, 8 parts; powdered castile soap, 1 part; and perfume to suit.

II.—Eosine 10 grains
White wax 1/2 drachm
Spermaceti 1/2 drachm
Soft paraffine 1 ounce
Alcohol, a sufficient quantity.

Dissolve the eosine in as little alcohol as will suffice, melt the other ingredients together, add the solution, and stir until cool.

«Nail-Cleaning Washes.»—

I.—Tartaric acid 1 drachm
Tincture of myrrh 1 drachm
Cologne water 2 drachms
Water 3 ounces

Dissolve the acid in the water; mix the tincture of myrrh and cologne, and add to the acid solution.

Dip the nails in this solution, wipe, and polish with chamois skin.

II.—Oxalic acid 30 grains
Rose water 1 ounce

«Nail Varnish.»—

Paraffine wax 60 grains Chloroform 2 ounces Oil of rose 3 drops

«POMADES:»

I.—Beef-Marrow Pomade.—

Vaseline oil, yellow 20,000 parts Ceresine, yellow 3,000 parts Beef marrow 2,000 parts Saffron substitute 15 parts Lemon oil 50 parts Bergamot oil 20 parts Clove oil 5 parts Lavender oil. 10 parts

II.—China Pomade.—

Vaseline oil, yellow 20,000 parts Ceresine, yellow 5,000 parts Brilliant, brown 12 parts Peru balsam 50 parts Lemon oil 5 parts Bergamot oil 5 parts Clove oil 5 parts Lavender oil 5 parts

III.—Crystalline Honey Pomade.—Nut oil, 125 drachms; spermaceti, 15 drachms; gamboge, 2 drachms; vervain oil, 10 drops; cinnamon oil, 20 drops; bergamot oil, 30 drops; rose oil, 3 drops. The spermaceti is melted in the nut oil on a water bath and digested with the gamboge for 20 minutes; it is next strained, scented, and poured into cans which are standing in water. The cooling must take place very slowly. Instead of gamboge, butter color may be used. Any desired scent mixture may be employed.

IV.—Herb Pomade.—

Vaseline oil, yellow 20,000 parts Ceresine, yellow 5,000 parts Chlorophyll 20 parts Lemon oil 50 parts Clove oil 20 parts Geranium oil, African 12 parts Curled mint oil. 4 parts

V.—Rose Pomade.—

Vaseline oil, white 20,000 parts Ceresine, white 5,000 parts Alkannin 15 parts Geranium oil, African 50 parts Palmarosa oil 30 parts Lemon oil 20 parts

VI.—Strawberry Pomade.—When the strawberry season is on, and berries are plenty and cheap, the following is timely:

Strawberries, ripe and fresh 4 parts Lard, sweet and fresh 25 parts Tallow, fresh 5 parts Alkanet tincture, quantity sufficient. Essential oil, quantity sufficient to perfume.

Melt lard and tallow together on the water bath at the temperature of boiling water. Have the strawberries arranged on a straining cloth. Add the alkanet tincture to the melted grease, stir in, and then pour the mixture over the berries. Stir the strained fats until the mass {228} begins to set, then add the perfume and stir in. A little artificial essence of strawberries may be added. The odor usually employed is rose, about 1 drop to every 2 pounds.

VII.—Stick Pomade.—

Tallow 500 parts Ceresine 150 parts Wax, yellow 50 parts Rosin, light 200 parts Paraffine oil (thick) 300 parts Oil of cassia. 5 parts Oil of bergamot 5 parts Oil of clove 2 parts

VIII.—Vaseline Pomade.—Melt 250 parts of freshly rendered lard and 25 parts of white wax at moderate heat and mix well with 200 parts of vaseline. Add 15 parts of bergamot oil, 3 parts of lavender oil, 2 parts of geranium oil, and 2 parts of lemon oil, mixing well.

IX.—Witch-Hazel Jelly.—

Oil of sweet almonds 256 parts Extract of witch-hazel fluid 10 parts Glycerine 32 parts oft soap 20 parts Tincture of musk, quantity sufficient to perfume.

Mix in a large mortar the glycerine and soft soap and stir until incorporated. Add and rub in the witch-hazel, and then add the oil, slowly, letting it fall in a very thin, small stream, under constant agitation; add the perfume, keeping up the agitation until complete incorporation is attained. Ten drops of musk to a quart of jelly is sufficient. Any other perfume may be used.

«Colors for Pomade.»—Pomade may be colored red by infusing alkanet in the grease; yellow may be obtained by using annotto in the same way; an oil-soluble chlorophyll will give a green color by admixture.

In coloring grease by means of alkanet or annotto it is best to tie the drug up in a piece of coarse cloth, place in a small portion of the grease, heat gently, squeezing well with a rod from time to time; and then adding this strongly colored grease to the remainder. This procedure obviates exposing the entire mass to heat, and neither decantation nor straining is needed.

«Brocq’s Pomade for Itching.»—

Acid phenic 1 part Acid salicylic 2 parts Acid tartaric 3 parts Glycerole of starch 60 to 100 parts

Mix and make a pomade.

«White Cosmetique.»—

Jasmine pomade 2 ounces Tuberose pomade 2 ounces White wax 2 ounces Refined suet 4 ounces Rose oil 15 minims

Melt the wax and suet over a water bath, then add the pomades, and finally the otto.

«Glycerine and Cucumber Jelly.»—

Gelatin 160 to 240 grains Boric acid 240 grains Glycerine 6 fluidounces Water 10 fluidounces

Perfume to suit. The perfume must be one that mixes without opalescence, otherwise it mars the beauty of the preparation. Orange-flower water or rose water could be substituted for the water if desired, or another perfume consisting of

Spirit of vanillin (15 grains per ounce) 2 fluidrachms Spirit of coumarin (15 grains per ounce) 2 fluidrachms Spirit of bitter almonds (1/8) 8 minims

to the quantities given above would prove agreeable.

«Cucumber Pomade.»—

Cucumber pomade 2 ounces Powdered white soap 1/2 ounce Powdered borax 2 drachms Cherry-laurel water 3 ounces Rectified spirit 3 ounces Distilled water to make 48 ounces

Rub the pomade with the soap and borax until intimately mixed, then add the distilled water (which may be warmed to blood heat), ounce by ounce, to form a smooth and uniform cream. When 40 ounces of water have been so incorporated, dissolve any essential oils desired as perfume in the spirit, and add the cherry-laurel water, making up to 48 ounces with plain water.

«ROUGES AND PAINTS:»

«Grease Paints.»—Theatrical face paints are sold in sticks, and there are many varieties of color. Yellows are obtained with ocher; browns with burnt umber; and blue is made with ultramarine. These colors should in each case be levigated finely along with their own weight {229} of equal parts of precipitated chalk and oxide of zinc and diluted with the same to the tint required, then made into sticks with mutton suet (or vaseline or paraffine, equal parts) well perfumed. By blending these colors, other tints may thus be obtained.

«White Grease Paints.»—

I.—Prepared chalk 4 av. ounces
Zinc oxide 4 av. ounces
Bismuth subnitrate 4 av. ounces
Asbestos powder 4 av. ounces
Sweet almond oil, about 2 1/2 fluidounces
Camphor 40 grains
Oil peppermint 3 fluidrachms
Esobouquet extract 3 fluidrachms

Sufficient almond oil should be used to form a mass of proper consistence.

II.—Zinc oxide. 8 parts
Bismuth subnitrate 8 parts
Aluminum oxychloride 8 parts
Almond oil, quantity sufficient, or 5–6 parts.
Perfume, quantity sufficient.

Mix the zinc, bismuth, and aluminum oxychloride thoroughly; make into a paste with the oil. Any perfume may be added, but that generally used is composed of 1 drachm of essence of bouquet, 12 grains of camphor, and 12 minims of oil of peppermint for every 3 1/2 ounces of paste.

«Bright Red.»—

Zinc oxide 10 parts Bismuth subnitrate 10 parts Aluminum oxychloride 10 parts Almond oil, quantity sufficient.

Mix the zinc, bismuth, and aluminum salts, and to every 4 ounces of the mixture add 2 1/4 grains of eosine dissolved in a drachm of essence of bouquet, 12 minims oil of peppermint, and 12 grains of camphor. Make the whole into a paste with almond oil.

«Red.»—

Cacao butter 4 av. ounces White wax 4 av. ounces Olive oil 2 fluidounces Oil of rose 8 drops Oil of bergamot 3 drops Oil of neroli 2 drops Tincture musk 2 drops Carmine 90 grains Ammonia water 3 fluidrachms

«Deep, or Bordeaux, Red.»—

Zinc oxide 30 parts Bismuth subnitrate 30 parts Aluminum oxychloride 30 parts Carmine 1 part Ammonia water 5 parts Essence bouquet 3 parts Peppermint, camphor, etc., quantity sufficient.

Mix the zinc, bismuth, and aluminum salts. Dissolve the carmine in the ammonia and add solution to the mixture. Add 24 grains of camphor, and 24 minims of oil of peppermint dissolved in the essence bouquet, and make the whole into a paste with oil of sweet almonds.

«Vermilion.»—

Vermilion 18 parts Tincture of saffron 12 parts Orris root, powdered 30 parts Chalk, precipitated 120 parts Zinc oxide 120 parts Camphor 2 parts Essence bouquet 9 parts Oil of peppermint 2 parts Almond oil, quantity sufficient.

Mix as before.

«Pink.»—

Zinc carbonate 250 parts Bismuth subnitrate 250 parts Asbestos 250 parts Expressed oil of almonds 100 parts Camphor 55 parts Oil of peppermint 55 parts Perfume 25 parts Eosine 1 part

«Dark Red.»—Like the preceding, but colored with a solution of carmine.

«Rouge.»—

Zinc oxide. 2 1/2 ounces Bismuth subnitrate 2 1/2 ounces Aluminum plumbate 2 1/2 ounces Eosine 1 drachm Essence bouquet 2 drachms Camphor 6 drachms Oil of peppermint 20 minims Almond oil, quantity sufficient.

Dissolve the eosine in the essence bouquet, and mix with the camphor and peppermint; add the powder and make into a paste with almond oil.

«Black Grease Paints.»—

I.—Soot 2 av. ounces
Sweet almond oil 2 fluidounces
Cacao butter 6 av. ounces
Perfume, sufficient.

{230}

The soot should be derived from burning camphor and repeatedly washed with alcohol. It should be triturated to a smooth mixture with the oil; then add to the melted cacao butter; add the perfume, and form into sticks.

Brown or other colors may be obtained by adding appropriate pigments, such as finely levigated burned umber, sienna, ocher, jeweler’s rouge, etc., to the foregoing base instead of lampblack.

II.—Best lampblack 1 drachm
Cacao butter 3 drachms
Olive oil 3 drachms
Oil of neroli 2 drops

Melt the cacao butter and oil, add the lampblack, and stir constantly as the mixture cools, adding the perfume toward the end.

III.—Lampblack 1 part
Cacao butter 6 parts
Oil neroli, sufficient.

Melt the cacao butter and the lampblack, and while cooling make an intimate mixture, adding the perfume toward the last.

IV.—Lampblack. 1 part
Expressed oil of almonds 1 part
Oil cocoanut 1 part
Perfume, sufficient.

Beat the lampblack into a stiff paste with glycerine. Apply with a sponge; if necessary, mix a little water with it when using.

V.—Beat the finest lampblack into a stiff paste with glycerine and apply with a sponge; if necessary, add a little water to the mixture when using. Or you can make a grease paint as follows: Drop black, 2 drachms; almond oil, 2 drachms; cocoanut oil, 6 drachms; oil of lemon, 5 minims; oil of neroli, 1 minim. Mix.

«Fatty Face Powders.»—These have a small percentage of fat mixed with them in order to make the powder adhere to the skin.

Dissolve 1 drachm anhydrous lanolin in 2 drachms of ether in a mortar. Add 3 drachms of light magnesia. Mix well, dry, and then add the following: French chalk, 2 ounces; powdered starch, 1 1/2 ounces; boric acid, 1 drachm; perfume, a sufficient quantity. A good perfume is coumarin, 2 grains, and attar of rose, 2 minims.

«Nose Putty.»—I.—Mix 1 ounce wheat flour with 2 drachms of powdered tragacanth and tint with carmine. Take as much of the powder as necessary, knead into a stiff paste with a little water and apply to the nose, having previously painted it with spirit gum.

II.—White wax, 8 parts; rosin, white, 8 parts; mutton suet, 4 parts; color to suit. Melt together.

«Rose Powder.»—As a base take 200 parts of powdered iris root, add 600 parts of rose petals, 100 parts of sandalwood, 100 parts of patchouli, 3 parts of oil of geranium, and 2 parts of true rose oil.

«Rouge Tablets.»—There are two distinct classes of these tablets: those in which the coloring matter is carmine, and those in which the aniline colors are used. The best are those prepared with carmine, or ammonium carminate, to speak more correctly. The following is an excellent formula:

Ammonium carminate 10 parts Talc, in powder 25 parts Dextrin 8 parts Simple syrup, sufficient. Perfume, to taste, sufficient.

Mix the talc and dextrin and add the perfume, preferably in the shape of an essential oil (attar of rose, synthetic oil of jasmine, or violet, etc.), using 6 to 8 drops to every 4 ounces of other ingredients. Incorporate the ammonium carminate and add just enough simple syrup to make a mass easily rolled out. Cut into tablets of the desired size. The ammonium carminate is made by adding 1 part of carmine to 2 1/2 parts of strong ammonia water. Mix in a vial, cork tightly, and set aside until a solution is formed, shaking occasionally. The ammonium carminate is made by dissolving carmine in ammonia water to saturation.

«Rouge Palettes.»—To prepare rouge palettes rub up together:

Carmine 9 parts French chalk 50 parts Almond oil 12 parts

Add enough tragacanth mucilage to make the mass adhere and spread the whole evenly on the porcelain palette.

«Liquid Rouge.»—

I.—Carmine 4 parts
Stronger ammonia water 4 parts
Essence of rose 16 parts
Rose water to make. 500 parts

Mix. A very delightful violet odor, if this is preferred, is obtained by using ionone in place of rose essence. A cheaper preparation may be made as follows: {231}

II.—Eosine 1 part
Distilled water 20 parts
Glycerine 5 parts
Cologne water 75 parts
Alcohol 100 parts

Mix.

Rub together with 10 parts of almond oil and add sufficient mucilage of tragacanth to make the mass adhere to the porcelain palette.

III.—Carmine 1 part
Stronger ammonia water 1 part
Attar of rose 4 parts
Rose water 125 parts

Mix. Any other color may be used in place of rose, violet (ionone), for instance, or heliotrope. A cheaper preparation may be made by substituting eosine for the carmine, as follows:

IV.—Eosine 1 part
Distilled water 20 parts
Glycerine 5 parts
Cologne water 75 parts
Alcohol 100 parts

Mix.

«Peach Tint.»—

_a._—Buffalo eosine 4 drachms
Distilled water 16 fluidounces

Mix.

_b._—Pure hydrochloric acid 2 1/2 drachms
Distilled water 64 fluidounces

Mix.

Pour _a_ into _b_, shake, and set aside for a few hours; then pour off the clear portion and collect the precipitate on a filter. Wash with the same amount of _b_ and immediately throw the precipitate into a glass measure, stirring in with a glass rod sufficient of _b_ to measure 16 ounces in all. Pass through a hair sieve to get out any filtering paper. To every 16 ounces add 8 ounces of glycerine.

«Theater Rouge.»—Base:

Cornstarch 4 drachms Powdered white talcum 6 drachms

Mix.

_a._—Carminoline 10 grains
Base 6 drachms
Water 4 drachms

Dissolve the carminoline in the water, mix with the base and dry.

_b._—Geranium red 10 grains
Base 6 drachms
Water 4 drachms

Mix as above and dry.

«SKIN FOODS.»

Wrinkles on the face yield to a wash consisting of 50 parts milk of almonds (made with rose water) and 4 parts aluminum sulphate. Use morning and night.

Rough skin is to be washed constantly in Vichy water. Besides this, rough places are to have the following application twice daily—either a few drops of:

I.—Rose water 100 parts
Glycerine 25 parts
Tannin 3/4 part

Mix. Or use:

II.—Orange-flower water 100 parts
Glycerine 10 parts
Borax 2 parts

Mix. Sig.: Apply twice daily.

«“Beauty Cream.”»—This formula gives the skin a beautiful, smooth, and fresh appearance, and, at the same time, serves to protect and preserve it:

Alum, powdered 10 grams Whites of 2 eggs Boric acid 3 grams Tincture of benzoin 40 drops Olive oil 40 drops Mucilage of acacia 5 drops Rice flour, quantity sufficient. Perfume, quantity sufficient.

Mix the alum and the white of eggs, without any addition of water whatever, in an earthen vessel, and dissolve the alum by the aid of very gentle heat (derived from a lamp, or gaslight, regulated to a very small flame), and constant, even, stirring. This must continue until the aqueous content of the albumen is completely driven off. Care must be taken to avoid coagulation of the albumen (which occurs very easily, as all know). Let the mass obtained in this manner get completely cold, then throw into a Wedgwood mortar, add the boric acid, tincture of benzoin, oil, mucilage (instead of which a solution of fine gelatin may be used), etc., and rub up together, thickening it with the addition of sufficient rice flour to give the desired consistence, and perfuming at will. Instead of olive oil any pure fat, or fatty oil, may be used, even vaseline or glycerine.

«Face Bleach or Beautifier.»—

Syrupy lactic acid 40 ounces Glycerine 80 ounces Distilled water 5 gallons

Mix. Gradually add

Tincture of benzoin 3 ounces

Color by adding {232}

Carmine No. 40 40 grains Glycerine 1 ounce Ammonia solution 1/2 ounce Water to 3 ounces

Heat this to drive off the ammonia, and mix all. Shake, set aside; then filter, and add

Solution of ionone 1 drachm

Add a few drachms of kaolin and filter until bright.

«BLACKHEAD REMEDIES.»

I.—Lactic acid 1 drachm
Boric acid 1 drachm
Ceresine 1 drachm
Paraffine oil 6 drachms
Hydrous wool fat 1 1/2 ounces
Castor oil 6 drachms

II.—Unna advises hydrogen dioxide in the treatment of blackheads, his prescription being:

Hydrogen dioxide 20 to 40 parts Hydrous wool fat 10 parts Petrolatum 30 parts

III.—Thymol 1 part
Boric acid 2 parts
Tincture of witch-hazel 18 parts
Rose water sufficient to make 200 parts

Mix. Apply to the face night and morning with a sponge, first washing the face with hot water and castile soap, and drying it with a coarse towel, using force enough to start the dried secretions. An excellent plan is to steam the face by holding it over a basin of hot water, keeping the head covered with a cloth.

IV.—Ichthyol 1 drachm
Zinc oxide 2 drachms
Starch 2 drachms
Petrolatum 3 drachms

This paste should be applied at night. The face should first be thoroughly steamed or washed in water as hot as can be comfortably borne. All pustules should then be opened and blackheads emptied with as little violence as possible. After careful drying the paste should be thoroughly rubbed into the affected areas. In the morning, after removing the paste with a bland soap, bathe with cool water and dry with little friction.

«HAND CREAMS AND LOTIONS:»

«Chapped Skin.»—

I.—Glycerine 8 parts
Bay rum 4 parts
Ammonia water 4 parts
Rose water 4 parts

Mix the bay rum and glycerine, add the ammonia water, and finally the rose water. It is especially efficacious after shaving.

II.—As glycerine is bad for the skin of many people, here is a recipe which will be found more generally satisfactory as it contains less glycerine: Bay rum, 3 ounces; glycerine, 1 ounce; carbolic acid, 1/2 drachm (30 drops). Wash the hands well and apply while hands are soft, preferably just before going to bed. Rub in thoroughly. This rarely fails to cure the worst “chaps” in two nights.

III.—A sure remedy for chapped hands consists in keeping them carefully dry and greasing them now and then with an anhydrous fat (not cold cream). The best substances for the purpose are unguentum cereum or oleum olivarum.

If the skin of the hands is already cracked the following preparation will heal it:

Finely ground zinc oxide, 5.0 parts; bismuth oxychloride, 2.0 parts; with fat oil, 12.0 parts; next add glycerine, 5.0 parts; lanolin, 30.0 parts; and scent with rose water, 10.0 parts.

IV.—Wax salve (olive oil 7 parts, and yellow wax 3 parts), or pure olive oil.

«Hand-Cleaning Paste.»—Cleaning pastes are composed of soap and grit, either with or without some free alkali. Any soap may be used, but a white soap is preferred. Castile soap does not make as firm a paste as soap made from animal fats, and the latter also lather better. For grit, anything may be used, from powdered pumice to fine sand.

A good paste may be made by dissolving soap in the least possible quantity of hot water, and as it cools and sets stirring in the grit. A good formula is:

White soap 2 1/2 pounds Fine sand 1 pound Water 5 1/2 pints

«Lotion for the Hands.»—

Boric acid 1 drachm Glycerine 6 drachms

Dissolve by heat and mix with

Lanolin 6 drachms Vaseline 1 ounce

Add any perfume desired. The borated glycerine should be cooled before mixing it with the lanolin.

«Cosmetic Jelly.»—

Tragacanth (white ribbon) 60 grains Rose water 14 ounces

Macerate for two days and strain forcibly through coarse muslin or cheese {233} cloth. Add glycerine and alcohol, of each 1 ounce. Perfume to suit. Use immediately after bathing, rubbing in well until dry.

«Perspiring Hands.»—I.—Take rectified eau de cologne, 50 parts (by weight); belladonna dye, 8 parts; glycerine, 3 parts; rub gently twice or three times a day with half a tablespoonful of this mixture. One may also employ chalk, carbonate of magnesia, rice starch, hot and cold baths of the hands (as hot and as cold as can be borne), during 6 minutes, followed by a solution of 4 parts of tannin in 32 of glycerine.

II.—Rub the hands several times per day with the following mixture:

By weight Rose water 125 parts Borax 10 parts Glycerine 8 parts

«Hand Bleach.»—Lanolin, 30 parts; glycerine, 20 parts; borax, 10 parts; eucalyptol, 2 parts; essential oil of almonds, 1 part. After rubbing the hands with this mixture, cover them with gloves during the night.

For the removal of developing stains, see Photography.

«MASSAGE CREAMS:»

«Massage Application.»—

White potash soap, shaved 20 parts Glycerine 30 parts Water 30 parts Alcohol (90 per cent) 10 parts

Dissolve the soap by heating it with the glycerine and water, mixed. Add the alcohol, and for every 30 ounces of the solution add 5 or 6 drops of the mistura oleoso balsamica, German Pharmacopœia. Filter while hot.

«Medicated Massage Balls.»—They are the balls of paraffine wax molded with a smooth or rough surface with menthol, camphor, oil of wintergreen, oil of peppermint, etc., added before shaping. Specially useful in headaches, neuralgias, and rheumatic affections, and many other afflictions of the skin and bones. The method of using them is to roll the ball over the affected part by the aid of the palm of the hand with pressure. Continue until relief is obtained or a sensation of warmth. The only external method for the treatment of all kinds of headaches is the menthol medicated massage ball. This may be made with smooth or corrugated surfaces. Keep wrapped in foil in cool places.

«Casein Massage Cream.»—The basis of the modern massage cream is casein. Casein is now produced very cheaply in the powdered form, and by treatment with glycerine and perfumes it is possible to turn out a satisfactory cream. The following formula is suggested:

Skimmed milk 1 gallon Water of ammonia 1 ounce Acetic acid 1 ounce Oil of rose geranium 1 drachm Oil of bitter almond 1 drachm Oil of anise 2 drachms Cold cream (see below), enough. Carmine enough to color.

Add the water of ammonia to the milk and let it stand 24 hours. Then add the acetic acid and let it stand another 24 hours. Then strain through cheese cloth and add the oils. Work this thoroughly in a Wedgwood mortar, adding enough carmine to color it a delicate pink. To the product thus obtained add an equal amount of cold cream made by the formula herewith given:

White wax 4 ounces Spermaceti 4 ounces White petrolatum 12 ounces Rose water 14 ounces Borax 80 grains

Melt the wax, spermaceti, and petrolatum together over a water bath; dissolve the borax in the rose water and add to the melted mass at one time. Agitate violently. Presumably the borax solution should be of the same temperature as the melted mass.

«Massage Skin Foods.»—

This preparation is used in massage for removing wrinkles:

I.—White wax 1/2 ounce
Spermaceti 1/2 ounce
Cocoanut oil 1 ounce
Lanolin 1 ounce
Oil of sweet almonds 2 ounces

Melt in a porcelain dish, remove from the fire, and add

Orange-flower water 1 ounce Tincture of benzoin 3 drops

Beat briskly until creamy.

II.—Snow-white cold cream 4 ounces
Lanolin 4 ounces
Oil of Theobroma 4 ounces
White petrolatum oil 4 ounces
Distilled water 4 ounces

In hot weather add

Spermaceti 1 1/2 drachms White wax 2 1/2 drachms

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In winter the two latter are left out and the proportion of cocoa butter is modified. Prepared and perfumed in proportion same as cold cream.

III.—White petrolatum 7 av. ounces
Paraffine wax 1/2 ounce
Lanolin 2 av. ounces
Water 3 fluidounces
Oil of rose 3 drops
Vanillin 2 grains
Alcohol 1 fluidrachm

Melt the paraffine, add the lanolin and petrolatum, and when these have melted pour the mixture into a warm mortar, and, with constant stirring, incorporate the water. When nearly cold add the oil and vanillin, dissolved in the alcohol.

Preparations of this kind should be rubbed into the skin vigorously, as friction assists the absorbed fat in developing the muscles, and also imparts softness and fullness to the skin.

«SKIN BLEACHES, BALMS, LOTIONS, ETC.:»

See also Cleaning Methods and Photography for removal of stains caused by photographic developers.

«Astringent Wash for Flabby Skin.»—This is used to correct coarse pores, and to remedy an oily or flabby skin. Apply with sponge night and morning:

Cucumber juice 1 1/2 ounces Tincture of benzoin 1/2 ounce Cologne 1 ounce Elder-flower water 5 ounces

Put the tincture of benzoin in an 8-ounce bottle, add the other ingredients, previously mixed, and shake slightly. There will be some precipitation of benzoin in this mixture, but it will settle out, or it may be strained out through cheese cloth.

«Bleaching Skin Salves.»—A skin-bleaching action, due to the presence of hydrogen peroxide, is possessed by the following mixtures:

I.—Lanolin 30 parts
Bitter almond oil 10 parts

Mix and stir with this salve base a solution of

Borax 1 part Glycerine 15 parts Hydrogen peroxide 15 parts

For impure skin the following composition is recommended:

II.—White mercurial ointment 5 grams
Zinc ointment 5 grams
Lanolin 30 grams
Bitter almond oil 10 grams

And gradually stir into this a solution of

Borax 2 grams Glycerine 30 grams Rose water 10 grams Concentrated nitric acid 5 drops

III.—Lanolin 30 grams Oil sweet almond 10 grams Borax 1 gram Glycerine 15 grams Solution hydrogen peroxide 15 grams

Mix the lanolin and oil, then incorporate the borax previously dissolved in the mixture of glycerine and peroxide solution.

IV.—Ointment ammoniac mercury 5 grams Ointment zinc oxide 5 grams Lanolin 30 grams Oil sweet almond 10 grams Borax 2 grams Glycerine 30 grams Rose water 10 grams Nitric acid, C. P. 5 drops

Prepare in a similar manner as the foregoing. Rose oil in either ointment makes a good perfume. Both ointments may, of course, be employed as a general skin bleach, which, in fact, is their real office—cosmetic creams.

«Emollient Skin Balm.»—

Quince seed 1 ounce Water 7 ounces Glycerine 1 1/2 ounces Alcohol 4 1/2 ounces Salicylic acid 6 grains Carbolic acid 10 grains Oil of bay 10 drops Oil of cloves 5 drops Oil of orange peel 10 drops Oil of wintergreen 8 drops Oil of rose 2 drops

Digest the quince seed in the water for 24 hours, and then press through a cloth; dissolve the salicylic acid in the alcohol; add the carbolic acid to the glycerine; put all together, shake well, and bottle.

«Skin Lotion.»—

Zinc sulphocarbolate 30 grains Alcohol (90 per cent) 4 fluidrachms Glycerine 2 fluidrachms Tincture of cochineal 1 fluidrachm Orange-flower water 1 1/2 fluidounces Rose water (triple) to make 6 fluidounces

{235}

«Skin Discoloration.»—Discoloration of the neck may be removed by the use of acids, the simplest of which is that in buttermilk, but if the action of this is too slow try 4 ounces of lactic acid, 2 of glycerine, and 1 of rose water. These will mix without heating. Apply several times daily with a soft linen rag; pour a small quantity into a saucer and dip the cloth into this. If the skin becomes sore use less of the remedy and allay the redness and smarting with a good cold cream. It is always an acid that removes freckles and discolorations, by burning them off. It is well to be slow in its use until you find how severe its action is. It is not wise to try for home making any of the prescriptions which include corrosive sublimate or any other deadly poison. Peroxide of hydrogen diluted with 5 times as much water, also will bleach discolorations. Do not try any of these bleaches on a skin freshly sunburned. For that, wash in hot water, or add to the hot water application enough witch-hazel to scent the water, and after that has dried into the skin it will be soon enough to try other applications.

«Detergent for Skin Stains.»—Moritz Weiss has introduced a detergent paste which will remove stains from the skin without attacking it, is non-poisonous, and can be used without hot water. Moisten the hands with a little cold water, apply a small quantity of the paste to the stained skin, rub the hands together for a few minutes, and rinse with cold water. The preparation is a mixture of soft soap and hard tallow, melted together over the fire and incorporated with a little emery powder, flint, glass, sand, quartz, pumice stone, etc., with a little essential oil to mask the smell of the soap. The mixture sets to a mass like putty, but does not dry hard. The approximate proportions of the ingredients are: Soft soap, 30 per cent; tallow, 15 per cent; emery powder, 55 per cent, and a few drops of essential oil.

If an extra detergent quality is desired, 4 ounces of sodium carbonate may be added, and the quantity of soap may be reduced. Paste thus made will attack grease, etc., more readily, but it is harder on the skin.

«Removing Inground Dirt.»—

Egg albumen 8 parts Boric acid 1 part Glycerine 32 parts Perfume to suit. Distilled water to make 50 parts

Dissolve the boric acid in a sufficient quantity of water; mix the albumen and glycerine and pass through a silk strainer. Finally, mix the two fluids and add the residue of water.

Every time the hands are washed, dry on a towel, and then moisten them lightly but thoroughly with the liquid, and dry on a soft towel without rubbing. At night, on retiring, apply the mixture and wipe slightly or just enough to take up superfluous liquid; or, better still, sleep in a pair of cotton gloves.

«TOILET CREAMS:»

«Almond Cold Creams.»—A liquid almond cream may be made by the appended formula. It has been known as milk of almond:

I.—Sweet almonds 5 ounces White castile soap 2 drachms White wax 2 drachms Spermaceti 2 drachms Oil of bitter almonds 10 minims Oil of bergamot 20 minims Alcohol 6 fluidounces Water, a sufficient quantity.

Beat the almonds in a smooth mortar until as much divided as their nature will admit; then gradually add water in very small quantities, continuing the beating until a smooth paste is obtained; add to this, gradually, one pint of water, stirring well all the time. Strain the resulting emulsion without pressure through a cotton cloth previously well washed to remove all foreign matter. If new, the cloth will contain starch, etc., which must be removed. Add, through the strainer, enough water to bring the measure of the strained liquid to 1 pint. While this operation is going on let the soap be shaved into thin ribbons, and melted, with enough water to cover it, over a very gentle fire or on a water bath. When fluid add the wax and spermaceti in large pieces, so as to allow them to melt slowly, and thereby better effect union with the soap. Stir occasionally. When all is melted place the soapy mixture in a mortar, run into it slowly the emulsion, blending the two all the while with the pestle. Care must be taken not to add the emulsion faster than it can be incorporated with the soap. Lastly add the alcohol in which the perfumes have been previously dissolved, in the same manner, using great care.

This preparation is troublesome to make and rather expensive, and it is perhaps no better for the purpose than glycerine. The mistake is often made of applying the latter too freely, its “stickiness” being unpleasant, and it is {236} best to dilute it largely with water. Such a lotion may be made by mixing

Glycerine 1 part Rose water 9 parts

Plain water may, of course, be used as the diluent, but a slightly perfumed preparation is generally considered more desirable. The perfume may easily be obtained by dissolving a very small proportion of handkerchief “extract” or some essential oil in the glycerine, and then mixing with plain water.

II.—White wax 1/4 ounce Spermaceti 2 1/2 ounces Oil of sweet almonds 2 1/2 ounces

Melt, remove from the fire, and add

Rose water 1 1/2 ounces

Beat until creamy: not until cold. When the cream begins to thicken add a few drops of oil of rose. Only the finest almond oil should be used. Be careful in weighing the wax and spermaceti. These precautions will insure a good product.

III.—White wax 4 ounces Spermaceti 3 ounces Sweet almond oil 6 fluidounces Glycerine 4 fluidounces Oil of rose geranium 1 fluidrachm Tincture of benzoin 4 fluidrachms

Melt the wax and spermaceti, add the oil of sweet almonds, then beat in the glycerine, tincture of benzoin, and oil of rose geranium. When all are incorporated to a smooth, creamy mass, pour into molds.