Chapter I: II III IV V VI (7)

The process described is especially adapted for film pictures, i. e., for such as bear the picture on a cohering layer, usually consisting of collodion. It cannot be employed outright for gum pictures, i. e., for such pictures as are composed of different pressed surfaces, consisting mainly of gum or similar material. If this process is to be adapted to these pictures as well, the ware, which has been given the biscuit baking, is first provided with a crude glaze coating, whereupon the details of the process are carried out as described above with the exception that there is another glaze coating between the adhesive coat and the biscuit-baked ware. In this case the article is also immediately placed in the grate fire. It is immaterial which of the two kinds of metachromatypes (transfer pictures) is used, in every case the baking in the muffle, etc., is dropped. The transfer pictures may also be produced in all colors for the grate fire.

«Decalcomania Paper.»—Smooth unsized paper, not too thick, is coated with the following solutions:

I.—Gelatin, 10 parts, dissolved in 300 parts warm water. This solution is applied with a sponge. The paper should be dried flat.

II.—Starch, 50 parts; gum tragacanth, dissolved in 600 parts of water. (The gum tragacanth is soaked in 300 parts of water; in the other 300 parts the starch is boiled to a paste; the two are then poured together and boiled.) The dried paper is brushed with this paste uniformly, a fairly thick coat being applied. The paper is then allowed to dry again.

III.—One part blood albumen is soaked in 3 parts water for 24 hours. A small quantity of sal ammoniac is added.

The paper, after having been coated with these three solutions and dried, is run through the printing press, the pictures, however, being printed reversed so that it may appear in its true position when transferred. Any colored inks may be used. {251}

IV.—A transfer paper, known as “décalque rapide,” invented by J. B. Duramy, consists of a paper of the kind generally used for making pottery transfers, but coated with a mixture of gum and arrowroot solutions in the proportion of 2 1/2 parts of the latter to 100 of the former. The coating is applied in the ordinary manner, but the paper is only semi-glazed. Furthermore, to decorate pottery ware by means of this new transfer paper, there is no need to immerse the ware in a bath in order to get the paper to draw off, as it will come away when moistened with a damp sponge, after having been in position for less than 5 minutes, whereas the ordinary papers require a much longer time.

«Picture Transferrer.»—A very weak solution of soft soap and pearlashes is used to transfer recent prints, such as illustrations from papers, magazines, etc., to unglazed paper, on the decalcomania principle. Such a solution is:

I.—Soft soap 1/2 ounce
Pearlash 2 drachms
Distilled water 16 fluidounces

The print is laid upon a flat surface, such as a drawing board, and moistened with the liquid. The paper on which the reproduction is required is laid over this, and then a sheet of thicker paper placed on the top, and the whole rubbed evenly and hard with a blunt instrument, such as the bowl of a spoon, until the desired depth of color in the transferrer is obtained. Another and more artistic process is to cover the print with a transparent sheet of material coated with wax, to trace out the pictures with a point and to take rubbings of the same after powdering with plumbago.

II.—Hard soap 1 drachm
Glycerine 30 grains
Alcohol 4 fluidrachms
Water 1 fluidounce

Dampen the printed matter with the solution by sponging, and proceed as with I.

DEHORNERS: See Horn.

DELTA METAL: See Alloys.

DEMON BOWLS OF FIRE: See Pyrotechnics.

DENTAL CEMENTS: See Cements.

«Dentifrices»

«TOOTH POWDERS:»

A perfect tooth powder that will clean the teeth and mouth with thoroughness need contain but few ingredients and is easily made. For the base there is nothing better than precipitated chalk; it possesses all the detergent and polishing properties necessary for the thorough cleansing of the teeth, and it is too soft to do any injury to soft or to defective or thinly enameled teeth. This cannot be said of pumice, cuttlebone, charcoal, kieselguhr, and similar abradants that are used in tooth powders. Their use is reprehensible in a tooth powder. The use of pumice or other active abradant is well enough occasionally, by persons afflicted with a growth of tartar on the teeth, but even then it is best applied by a competent dentist. Abrading powders have much to answer for in hastening the day of the toothless race.

Next in value comes soap. Powdered white castile soap is usually an ingredient of tooth powders. There is nothing so effective for removing sordes or thickened mucus from the gums or mouth. But used alone or in too large proportions, the taste is unpleasant. Orris possesses no cleansing properties, but is used for its flavor and because it is most effective for masking the taste of the soap. Sugar or saccharine may be used for sweetening, and for flavoring almost anything can be used. Flavors should, in the main, be used singly, though mixed flavors lack the clean taste of simple flavors.

The most popular tooth powder sold is the white, saponaceous, wintergreen-flavored powder, and here is a formula for this type:

I.—Precipitated chalk 1 pound
White castile soap 1 ounce
Florentine orris 2 ounces
Sugar (or saccharine, 2 grains) 1 ounce
Oil of wintergreen 1/4 ounce

The first four ingredients should be in the finest possible powder and well dried. Triturate the oil of wintergreen with part of the chalk, and mix this with the balance of the chalk. Sift each ingredient separately through a sieve (No. 80 or finer), and mix well together, afterwards sifting the mixture 5 or 6 times. The finer the sieve and the more the mixture is sifted, the finer and lighter the powder will be. {252}

This powder will cost about 15 cents a pound.

Pink, rose-flavored powder of the Caswell and Hazard, Hudnut, or McMahan type, once so popular in New York. It was made in two styles, with and without soap.

II.—Precipitated chalk 1 pound
Florentine orris 2 ounces
Sugar 1 1/2 ounces
White castile soap 1 ounce
No. 40 carmine 15 grains
Oil of rose 12 drops
Oil of cloves 4 drops

Dissolve the carmine in an ounce of water of ammonia and triturate this with part of the chalk until the chalk is uniformly dyed. Then spread it in a thin layer on a sheet of paper and allow the ammonia to evaporate. When there is no ammoniacal odor left, mix this dyed chalk with the rest of the chalk and sift the whole several times until thoroughly mixed. Then proceed to make up the powder as in the previous formula, first sifting each ingredient separately and then together, being careful thoroughly to triturate the oils of rose and cloves with the orris after it is sifted and before it is added to the other powders. The oil of cloves is used to back up the oil of rose. It strengthens and accentuates the rose odor. Be careful not to get a drop too much, or it will predominate over the rose.

«Violet Tooth Powder.»—

Precipitated chalk 1 pound Florentine orris 4 ounces Castile soap 1 ounce Sugar 1 1/2 ounces Extract of violet 1/4 ounce Evergreen coloring, R. & F., quantity sufficient.

Proceed as in the second formula, dyeing the chalk with the evergreen coloring to the desired shade before mixing.

III.—Precipitated chalk 16 pounds
Powdered orris 4 pounds
Powdered cuttlefish bone 2 pounds
Ultramarine 9 1/2 ounces
Geranium lake 340 grains
Jasmine 110 minims
Oil of neroli 110 minims
Oil of bitter almonds 35 minims
Vanillin 50 grains
Artificial musk (Lautier’s) 60 grains
Saccharine 140 grains

Rub up the perfumes with 2 ounces of alcohol, dissolve the saccharine in warm water, add all to the orris, and set aside to dry. Rub the colors up with water and some chalk, and when dry pass all through a mixer and sifter twice to bring out the color.

«Camphorated and Carbolated Powders.»—A camphorated tooth powder may be made by leaving out the oil of wintergreen in the first formula and adding 1 1/2 ounces of powdered camphor.

Carbolated tooth powder may likewise be made with the first formula by substituting 2 drachms of liquefied carbolic acid for the oil of wintergreen. But the tooth powder gradually loses the odor and taste of the acid. It is not of much utility anyway, as the castile soap in the powder is of far greater antiseptic power than the small amount of carbolic acid that can safely be combined in a tooth powder. Soap is one of the best antiseptics.

Alkaline salts, borax, sodium bicarbonate, etc., are superfluous in a powder already containing soap. The only useful purpose they might serve is to correct acidity of the mouth, and that end can be reached much better by rinsing the mouth with a solution of sodium bicarbonate. Acids have no place in tooth powders, the French Codex to the contrary notwithstanding.

«Peppermint as a Flavor.»—In France and all over Europe peppermint is the popular flavor, as wintergreen is in this country.

English apothecaries use sugar of milk and heavy calcined magnesia in many of their tooth powders. Neither has any particular virtue as a tooth cleanser, but both are harmless. Cane sugar is preferable to milk sugar as a sweetener, and saccharine is more efficient, though objected to by some; it should be used in the proportion of 2 to 5 grains to the pound of powder, and great care taken to have it thoroughly distributed throughout.

An antiseptic tooth powder, containing the antiseptic ingredients of listerine, is popular in some localities.

IV.—Precipitated chalk 1 pound
Castile soap 5 drachms
Borax 3 drachms
Thymol 20 grains
Menthol 20 grains
Eucalyptol 20 grains
Oil of wintergreen 20 grains
Alcohol 1/2 ounce

Dissolve the thymol and oils in the alcohol, and triturate with the chalk, and proceed as in the first formula. {253}

One fault with this powder is the disagreeable taste of the thymol. This may be omitted and the oil of wintergreen increased to the improvement of the taste, but with some loss of antiseptic power.

«Antiseptic Powder.»—

V.—Boric acid 50 parts
Salicylic acid 50 parts
Dragon’s blood 20 parts
Calcium carbonate 1,000 parts
Essence spearmint 12 parts

Reduce the dragon’s blood and calcium carbonate to the finest powder, and mix the ingredients thoroughly. The powder should be used twice a day, or even oftener, in bad cases. It is especially recommended in cases where the enamel has become eroded from the effects of iron.

«Menthol Tooth Powder.»—Menthol leaves a cool and pleasant sensation in the mouth, and is excellent for fetid breath. It may be added to most formulas by taking an equal quantity of oil of wintergreen and dissolving in alcohol.

Menthol 1 part Salol 8 parts Soap, grated fine 20 parts Calcium carbonate 20 parts Magnesia carbonate 60 parts Essential oil of mint 2 parts

Powder finely and mix. If there is much tartar on the teeth it will be well to add to this formula from 10 to 20 parts of pumice, powdered very finely.

«Tooth Powders and Pastes.»—Although the direct object of these is to keep the teeth clean and white, they also prevent decay, if it is only by force of mere cleanliness, and in this way (and also by removing decomposing particles of food) tend to keep the breath sweet and wholesome. The necessary properties of a tooth powder are cleansing power unaccompanied by any abrading or chemical action on the teeth themselves, a certain amount of antiseptic power to enable it to deal with particles of stale food, and a complete absence of any disagreeable taste or smell. These conditions are easy to realize in practice, and there is a very large number of efficient and good powders, as well as not a few which are apt to injure the teeth if care is not taken to rinse out the mouth very thoroughly after using. These powders include some of the best cleansers, and have hence been admitted in the following recipes, mostly taken from English collections.

I.—Charcoal and sugar, equal weights. Mix and flavor with clove oil.

II.—Charcoal 156 parts
Red kino 156 parts
Sugar 6 parts

Flavor with peppermint oil

III.—Charcoal 270 parts
Sulphate of quinine 1 part
Magnesia 1 part

Scent to liking.

IV.—Charcoal 30 parts
Cream of tartar 8 parts
Yellow cinchona bark 4 parts
Sugar 15 parts

Scent with oil of cloves.

V.—Sugar 120 parts
Alum 10 parts
Cream of tartar 20 parts
Cochineal 3 parts

VI.—Cream of Tartar 1,000 parts
Alum 190 parts
Carbonate of magnesia 375 parts
Sugar 375 parts
Cochineal 75 parts
Essence Ceylon cinnamon 90 parts
Essence cloves 75 parts
Essence English peppermint 45 parts

VII.—Sugar 200 parts
Cream of tartar 400 parts
Magnesia 400 parts
Starch 400 parts
Cinnamon 32 parts
Mace 11 parts
Sulphate of quinine 16 parts
Carmine 17 parts

Scent with oil of peppermint and oil of rose.

VIII.—Bleaching powder 11 parts
Red coral 12 parts

IX.—Red cinchona bark 12 parts
Magnesia 50 parts
Cochineal 9 parts
Alum 6 parts
Cream of tartar 100 parts {254}
English peppermint oil 4 parts
Cinnamon oil 2 parts

Grind the first five ingredients separately, then mix the alum with the cochineal, and then add to it the cream of tartar and the bark. In the meantime the magnesia is mixed with the essential oils, and finally the whole mass is mixed through a very fine silk sieve.

X.—Whitewood charcoal 250 parts
Cinchona bark 125 parts
Sugar 250 parts
Peppermint oil 12 parts
Cinnamon oil 8 parts

XI.—Precipitated chalk 750 parts
Cream of tartar 250 parts
Florence orris root 250 parts
Sal ammoniac 60 parts
Ambergris 4 parts
Cinnamon 4 parts
Coriander 4 parts
Cloves 4 parts
Rosewood 4 parts

XII.—Dragon’s blood 250 parts
Cream of tartar 30 parts
Florence orris root 30 parts
Cinnamon 16 parts
Cloves 8 parts

XIII.—Precipitated chalk 500 parts
Dragon’s blood 250 parts
Red sandalwood 125 parts
Alum 125 parts
Orris root 250 parts
Cloves 15 parts
Cinnamon 15 parts
Vanilla 8 parts
Rosewood 15 parts
Carmine lake 250 parts
Carmine 8 parts

XIV.—Cream of tartar 150 parts
Alum 25 parts
Cochineal 12 parts
Cloves 25 parts
Cinnamon 25 parts
Rosewood 6 parts

Scent with essence of rose.

XV.—Coral 20 parts
Sugar 20 parts
Wood charcoal 6 parts
Essence of vervain 1 part

XVI.—Precipitated chalk 500 parts
Orris root 500 parts
Carmine 1 part
Sugar 1 part
Essence of rose 4 parts
Essence of neroli 4 parts

XVII.—Cinchona bark 50 parts
Chalk 100 parts
Myrrh 50 parts
Orris root 100 parts
Cinnamon 50 parts
Carbonate of ammonia 100 parts
Oil of cloves. 2 parts

XVIII.—Gum arabic 30 parts
Cutch 80 parts
Licorice juice 550 parts
Cascarilla 20 parts
Mastic 20 parts
Orris root 20 parts
Oil of cloves 5 parts
Oil of peppermint 15 parts
Extract of amber 5 parts
Extract of musk 5 parts

XIX.—Chalk 200 parts
Cuttlebone 100 parts
Orris root 100 parts
Bergamot oil 2 parts
Lemon oil 4 parts
Neroli oil 1 part
Portugal oil 2 parts

XX.—Borax 50 parts
Chalk 100 parts
Myrrh 25 parts
Orris root 22 parts
Cinnamon 25 parts

XXI.—Wood charcoal 30 parts
White honey 30 parts
Vanilla sugar 30 parts
Cinchona bark 16 parts

Flavor with oil of peppermint.

XXII.—Syrup of 33° B. 38 parts
Cuttlebone 200 parts
Carmine lake 30 parts
English oil of peppermint 5 parts {255}

XXIII.—Red coral 50 parts
Cinnamon 12 parts
Cochineal 6 parts
Alum 2 1/8 parts
Honey 125 parts
Water 6 parts

Triturate the cochineal and the alum with the water. Then, after allowing them to stand for 24 hours, put in the honey, the coral, and the cinnamon. When the effervescence has ceased, which happens in about 48 hours, flavor with essential oils to taste.

XXIV.—Well-skimmed honey 50 parts
Syrup of peppermint 50 parts
Orris root 12 parts
Sal ammoniac 12 parts
Cream of tartar 12 parts
Tincture of cinnamon 3 parts
Tincture of cloves 3 parts
Tincture of vanilla 3 parts
Oil of cloves 1 part

XXV.—Cream of tartar 120 parts
Pumice 120 parts
Alum 30 parts
Cochineal 30 parts
Bergamot oil 3 parts
Clove 3 parts

Make to a thick paste with honey or sugar.

XXVI.—Honey 250 parts
Precipitated chalk 250 parts
Orris root 250 parts
Tincture of opium 7 parts
Tincture of myrrh 7 parts
Oil of rose 2 parts
Oil of cloves 2 parts
Oil of nutmeg 2 parts

XXVII.—Florentine orris 6 parts
Magnesium carbonate 2 parts
Almond soap 12 parts
Calcium carbonate 60 parts
Thymol 1 part
Alcohol, quantity sufficient.

Powder the solids and mix. Dissolve the thymol in as little alcohol as possible, and add perfume in a mixture in equal parts of oil of peppermint, oil of clove, oil of lemon, and oil of eucalyptus. About 1 minim of each to every ounce of powder will be sufficient.

XXVIII.—Myrrh, 10 parts; sodium chloride, 10 parts; soot, 5 parts; soap, 5 parts; lime carbonate, 500 parts.

XXIX.—Camphor, 5 parts; soap, 10 parts; saccharine, 0.25 parts; thymol, 0.5 parts; lime carbonate, 500 parts. Scent, as desired, with rose oil, sassafras oil, wintergreen oil, or peppermint oil.

XXX.—Powdered camphor, 6 parts; myrrh, 15 parts; powdered Peruvian bark, 6 parts; distilled water, 12 parts; alcohol of 80° F., 50 parts. Macerate the powders in the alcohol for a week and then filter.

XXXI.—Soap, 1; saccharine. 0.025; thymol, 0.05; lime carbonate, 50; sassafras essence, enough to perfume.

XXXII.—Camphor, 0.5; soap, 1; saccharine, 0.025; calcium carbonate, 50; oil of sassafras, or cassia, or of gaultheria, enough to perfume.

XXXIII.—Myrrh, 1; sodium chloride, 1; soap, 50; lime carbonate, 50; rose oil as required.

XXXIV.—Precipitated calcium carbonate, 60 parts; quinine sulphate, 2 parts; saponine, 0.1 part; saccharine, 0.1 part; carmine as required; oil of peppermint, sufficient.

XXXV.—Boracic acid, 100 parts; powdered starch, 50 parts; quinine hydrochlorate, 10 parts; saccharine, 1 part; vanillin (dissolved in alcohol), 1.5 parts.

«Neutral Tooth Powder.»—Potassium chlorate, 200 parts; starch, 200 parts; carmine lake, 40 parts; saccharine (in alcoholic solution), 1 part; vanillin (dissolved in alcohol), 1 part.

«Tooth Powder for Children.»—

Magnesia carbonate 10 parts Medicinal soap 10 parts Sepia powder 80 parts Peppermint oil, quantity sufficient to flavor.

«Flavorings for Dentifrice.»—

I.—Sassafras oil, true 1 drachm Pinus pumilio oil 20 minims Bitter orange oil 20 minims Wintergreen oil 2 minims Anise oil 4 minims Rose geranium oil 1 minim Alcohol 1 ounce

Use according to taste.

II.—Oil of peppermint, English 4 parts
Oil of aniseed 6 parts {256}
Oil of clove 1 part
Oil of cinnamon 1 part
Saffron 1 part
Deodorized alcohol 350 parts
Water 300 parts

Or, cassia, 4 parts, and vanilla, 1/2 part, may be substituted for the saffron.

«LIQUID DENTIFRICES AND TOOTH WASHES:»

«A French Dentifrice.»—I.—A preparation which has a reputation in France as a liquid dentifrice is composed of alcohol, 96 per cent, 1,000 parts; Mitcham peppermint oil, 30 parts; aniseed oil, 5 parts; oil of Acorus calamus, 0.5 parts. Finely powdered cochineal and cream of tartar, 5 parts each, are used to tint the solution. The mixed ingredients are set aside for 14 days before filtering.

Sozodont.—

II.—The liquid tooth preparation “Sozodont” is said to contain: Soap powder, 60 parts; glycerine, 60 parts; alcohol, 360 parts; water, 220 parts; oils of peppermint, of aniseed, of clover, and of cinnamon, 1 part each; oil of wintergreen, 1–200 part.

III.—Thymol 2 grains
Benzoic acid 24 grains
Tincture eucalyptus 2 drachms
Alcohol quantity sufficient to make 2 ounces.

Mix. Sig.: A teaspoonful diluted with half a wineglassful of water.

IV.—Carbolic acid, pure 2 ounces
Glycerine, 1,260° 1 ounce
Oil wintergreen 6 drachms
Oil cinnamon 3 drachms
Powdered cochineal 1/2 drachm
S. V. R 40 ounces
Distilled water 40 ounces

Dissolve the acid in the glycerine with the aid of a gentle heat and the essential oils in the spirit; mix together, and add the water and cochineal; then let the preparation stand for a week and filter.

A mixture of caramel and cochineal coloring, N. F., gives an agreeable red color for saponaceous tooth washes. It is not permanent, however.

Variations of this formula follow:

V.—White castile soap 1 ounce
Tincture of asarum 2 drachms
Oil of peppermint 1/2 drachm
Oil of wintergreen 1/2 drachm
Oil of cloves 5 drops
Oil of cassia 5 drops
Glycerine 4 ounces
Alcohol 14 ounces
Water 14 ounces

VI.—White castile soap 1 1/2 ounces
Oil of orange 10 minims
Oil of cassia 5 minims
Oil of wintergreen 15 minims
Glycerine 3 ounces
Alcohol 8 ounces
Water enough to make 1 quart.

VII.—White castile soap 3 ounces
Glycerine 5 ounces
Water 20 ounces
Alcohol 30 ounces
Oil of peppermint 1 drachm
Oil of wintergreen 1 drachm
Oil of orange peel 1 drachm
Oil of anise 1 drachm
Oil of cassia 1 drachm

Beat up the soap with the glycerine; dissolve the oils in the alcohol and add to the soap and glycerine. Stir well until the soap is completely dissolved.

VIII.—White castile soap 1 ounce
Orris root 4 ounces
Rose leaves 4 ounces
Oil of rose 1/2 drachm
Oil of neroli 1/2 drachm
Cochineal 1/2 ounce
Diluted alcohol 2 quarts

If the wash is intended simply as an elixir for sweetening the breath, the following preparation, resembling the celebrated eau de botot, will be found very desirable:

IX.—Oil of peppermint 30 minims
Oil of spearmint 15 minims
Oil of cloves 5 minims
Oil of red cedar wood 60 minims
Tincture of myrrh 1 ounce
Alcohol 1 pint

Care must be taken not to confound the oil of cedar tops with the oil of cedar wood. The former has an odor like turpentine; the latter has the fragrance of the red cedar wood.

For a cleansing wash, a solution of soap is to be recommended. It may be made after the following formula:

X.—White castile soap 1 ounce
Alcohol 6 ounces
Glycerine 4 ounces
Hot water 6 ounces
Oil of peppermint 15 minims
Oil of wintergreen 20 minims
Oil of cloves 5 minims
Extract of vanilla 1/2 ounce

Dissolve the soap in the hot water and add the glycerine and extract of vanilla. Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, mix the solutions, and after 24 hours filter through paper. {257}

It is customary to color such preparations. An agreeable brown-yellow tint may be given by the addition of a small quantity of caramel. A red color may be given by cochineal. The color will fade, but will be found reasonably permanent when kept from strong light.

«TOOTH SOAPS AND PASTES:»

«Tooth Soaps.»—

I.—White castile soap 225 parts
Precipitated chalk 225 parts
Orris root 225 parts
Oil of peppermint 7 parts
Oil of cloves 4 parts
Water, a sufficient quantity.

II.—Castile soap 100 drachms
Precipitated chalk 100 drachms
Powdered orris root 100 drachms
White sugar 50 drachms
Rose water 50 drachms
Oil of cloves 100 drops
Oil of peppermint 3 drachms

Dissolve the soap in water, add the rose water, then rub up with the sugar with which the oils have been previously triturated, the orris root and the precipitated chalk.

III.—Potassium chlorate, 20 drachms; powdered white soap, 10 drachms; precipitated chalk, 20 drachms; peppermint oil, 15 drops; clove oil, 5 drops; glycerine, sufficient to mass. Use with a soft brush.

«Saponaceous Tooth Pastes.»—

I.—Precipitated carbonate of lime 90 parts
Soap powder 30 parts
Ossa sepia, powdered 15 parts
Tincture of cocaine 45 parts
Oil of peppermint 6 parts
Oil of ylang-ylang 0.3 parts
Glycerine 30 parts
Rose water to cause liquefaction. Carmine solution to color.

II.—Precipitated carbonate of lime 150 parts
Soap powder 45 parts
Arrowroot 45 parts
Oil of eucalyptus 2 parts
Oil of peppermint 1 part
Oil of geranium 1 part
Oil of cloves 0.25 parts
Oil of aniseed 0.25 parts
Glycerine 45 parts
Chloroform water to cause liquefaction. Carmine solution to color.

Cherry Tooth Paste.—

III.—Clarified honey 100 drachms
Precipitated chalk 100 drachms
Powdered orris root 100 drachms
Powdered rose leaves 60 drops
Oil of cloves 55 drops
Oil of mace 55 drops
Oil of geranium 55 drops

Chinese Tooth Paste.—

IV.—Powdered pumice 100 drachms
Starch 20 drachms
Oil of peppermint 40 drops
Carmine 1/4 drachm

Eucalyptus Paste.—Forty drachms precipitated chalk, 11 drachms soap powder, 11 drachms wheaten starch, 1/4 drachm carmine, 30 drops oil of peppermint, 30 drops oil of geranium, 60 drops eucalyptus oil, 2 drops oil of cloves, 12 drops oil of anise mixed together and incorporated to a paste, with a mixture of equal parts of glycerine and spirit.

Myrrh Tooth Paste.—

Precipitated chalk 8 ounces Orris 8 ounces White castile soap 2 ounces Borax 2 ounces Myrrh 1 ounce Glycerine, quantity sufficient.

Color and perfume to suit.

A thousand grams of levigated powdered oyster shells are rubbed up with 12 drachms of cochineal to a homogeneous powder. To this is added 1 drachm of potassium permanganate and 1 drachm boric acid and rubbed well up. Foam up 200 drachms castile soap and 5 drachms chemically pure glycerine and mix it with the foregoing mass, adding by teaspoonful 150 grams of boiling strained honey. The whole mass is again thoroughly rubbed up, adding while doing so 200 drops honey. Finally the mass should be put into a mortar and pounded for an hour and then kneaded with the hands for 2 hours.

Tooth Paste to be put in Collapsible Tubes.—

Calcium carbonate, levigated 100 parts Cuttlefish bone, in fine powder 25 parts Castile soap, old white, powdered 25 parts Tincture of carmine, ammoniated 4 parts Simple syrup 25 parts {258} Menthol 2 parts Alcohol 5 parts Attar of rose or other perfume, quantity sufficient. Rose water sufficient to make a paste.

Beat the soap with a little rose water, then warm until softened, add syrup and tincture of carmine. Dissolve the perfume and menthol in the alcohol and add to soap mixture. Add the solids and incorporate thoroughly. Finally, work to a proper consistency for filling into collapsible tubes, adding water, if necessary.

«MOUTH WASHES.»

I.—Quillaia bark 125 parts
Glycerine 95 parts
Alcohol 155 parts

Macerate for 4 days and add:

Acid. carbol. cryst 4 parts Ol. geranii 0.6 parts Ol. caryophyll 0.6 parts Ol. rosæ 0.6 parts Ol. cinnam 0.6 parts Tinct. ratanhæ 45 parts Aqua rosæ 900 parts

Macerate again for 4 days and filter.

Thymol 20 parts Peppermint oil 10 parts Clove oil 5 parts Sage oil 5 parts Marjoram oil 3 parts Sassafras oil 3 parts Wintergreen oil 0.5 parts Coumarin 0.5 parts Alcohol, dil. 1,000 parts

A teaspoonful in a glass of water.

II.—Tincture orris (1 in 4) 1 1/2 parts
Lavender water 1/2 part
Tinct. cinnamon (1 in 8) 1 part
Tinct. yellow cinch bark 1 part
Eau de cologne 2 parts

Orris and Rose.—

III.—Orris root 30 drachms
Rose leaves 8 drachms
Soap bark 8 drachms
Cochineal 3 1/2 drachms
Diluted alcohol 475 drachms
Oil rose 30 drops
Oil neroli 40 drops

Myrrh Astringent.—

IV.—Tincture myrrh 125 drachms
Tincture benzoin 50 drachms
Tincture cinchona 8 drachms
Alcohol 225 drachms
Oil of rose 30 drops

Borotonic.—

V.—Acid boric 20 parts
Oil wintergreen 10 parts
Glycerine 110 parts
Alcohol 150 parts
Distilled water enough to make 600 parts

Sweet Salicyl.—

VI.—Acid salicylic 4 parts
Saccharine 1 part
Sodium bicarbonate 1 part
Alcohol 200 parts

Foaming Orange.—

VII.—Castile soap 29 drachms
Oil orange 10 drops
Oil cinnamon 5 drops
Distilled water 30 drachms
Alcohol 90 drachms

Australian Mint.—

VIII.—Thymol 0.25 parts
Acid benzoic 3 parts
Tincture eucalyptus 15 parts
Alcohol 100 parts
Oil peppermint 0.75 parts

Fragrant Dentine.—

IX.—Soap bark 125 parts
Glycerine 95 parts
Alcohol 155 parts
Rose water 450 parts

Macerate for 4 days and add:

Carbolic acid, cryst 4 parts Oil geranium 0.6 parts Oil cloves 0.6 parts Oil rose 0.6 parts Oil cinnamon 0.6 parts Tincture rhatany 45 parts Rose water 450 parts

Allow to stand 4 days; then filter.

Aromantiseptic.—

X.—Thymol 20 parts
Oil peppermint 10 parts
Oil cloves 5 parts
Oil sage 5 parts
Oil marjoram 3 parts
Oil sassafras 3 parts
Oil wintergreen 0.5 parts
Coumarin 0.5 parts
Diluted alcohol 1,000 parts

The products of the foregoing formulas are used in the proportion of 1 teaspoonful in a half glassful of water.

Foaming.—

XI.—Soap bark, powder 2 ounces
Cochineal powder 60 grains
Glycerine 3 ounces {259}
Alcohol 10 ounces
Water sufficient to make 32 ounces

Mix the soap, cochineal, glycerine alcohol, and water together; let macerate for several days; filter and flavor; if same produces turbidity, shake up the mixture with magnesium carbonate, and filter through paper.

Odonter.—

XII.—Soap bark, powder 2 ounces
Cudbear, powder 4 drachms
Glycerine 4 ounces
Alcohol 14 ounces
Water sufficient to make 32 ounces

Mix, and let macerate with frequent agitation, for several days; filter; add flavor; if necessary filter again through magnesium carbonate or paper pulp.

Sweet Anise.—

XIII.—Soap bark 2 ounces
Aniseed 4 drachms
Cloves 4 drachms
Cinnamon 4 drachms
Cochineal 60 grains
Vanilla 60 grains
Oil of peppermint 1 drachm
Alcohol 16 ounces
Water sufficient to make 32 ounces

Reduce the drugs to coarse powder, dissolve the oil of peppermint in the alcohol, add equal parts of water, and macerate therein the powders for 5 to 6 days, with frequent agitation; place in percolator and percolate until 32 fluidounces have been obtained. Let stand for a week and filter through paper; if necessary to make it perfectly bright and clear, shake up with some magnesia, and again filter.

Saponaceous.—

XIV.—White castile soap 2 ounces
Glycerine 2 ounces
Alcohol 8 ounces
Water 4 ounces
Oil peppermint 20 drops
Oil wintergreen 30 drops
Solution of carmine N. F. sufficient to color.

Dissolve the soap in the alcohol and water, add the other ingredients, and filter.

XV.—Crystallized carbolic acid 4 parts
Eucalyptol 1 part
Salol 2 parts
Menthol 0.25 parts
Thymol 0.1 part
Alcohol 100 parts

Dye with cochineal (1 1/2 per cent).

«Jackson’s Mouth Wash.»—Fresh lemon peel, 10 parts; fresh sweet orange peel, 10 parts; angelica root, 10 parts; guaiacum wood, 30 parts; balsam of Tolu, 12 parts; benzoin, 12 parts; Peruvian balsam, 4 parts; myrrh, 3 parts; alcohol (90 per cent), 500 parts.

«Tablets for Antiseptic Mouth Wash.»—Heliotropine, 0.01 part; saccharine, 0.01 part; salicylic acid, 0.01 part; menthol, 1 part; milk sugar, 5 parts. These tablets may be dyed green, red, or blue, with chlorophyll, eosine, and indigo carmine, respectively.

«Depilatories»

«Depilatory Cream.»—The depilatory cream largely used in New York hospitals for the removal of hair from the skin previous to operations:

I.—Barium sulphide 3 parts
Starch 1 part
Water, sufficient quantity.

The mixed powders are to be made into a paste with water, and applied in a moderately thick layer to the parts to be denuded of hair, the excess of the latter having been previously trimmed off with a pair of scissors. From time to time a small part of the surface should be examined, and when it is seen that the hair can be removed, the mass should be washed off. The barium sulphide should be quite fresh. It can be prepared by making barium sulphate and its own weight of charcoal into a paste with linseed oil, rolling the paste into the shape of a sausage, and placing it upon a bright fire to incinerate. When it has ceased to burn, and is a white hot mass, remove from the fire, cool, and powder.

The formula is given with some reserve, for preparations of this kind are usually unsafe unless used with great care. It should be removed promptly when the skin begins to burn.

II.—Barium sulphide 25 parts
Soap 5 parts
Talc 35 parts
Starch 35 parts
Benzaldehyde sufficient to make 120 parts

Powder the solids and mix. To use, to a part of this mixture add 3 parts of water, at the time of its application, and with a camel’s-hair pencil paint the mixture evenly over the spot to be freed of hair. Let remain in contact with the {260} skin for 5 minutes, then wash off with a sponge, and in the course of 5 minutes longer the hair will come off on slight friction with the sponge.

Strontium sulphide is an efficient depilatory. A convenient form of applying it is as follows:

III.—Strontium sulphide 2 parts
Zinc oxide 3 parts
Powdered starch 3 parts

Mix well and keep in the dry state until wanted for use, taking then a sufficient quantity, forming into a paste with warm water and applying to the surface to be deprived of hair. Allow to remain from 1 to 5 minutes, according to the nature of the hair and skin; it is not advisable to continue the application longer than the last named period. Remove in all cases at once when any caustic action is felt. After the removal of the paste, scrape the skin gently but firmly with a blunt-edged blade (a paper knife, for instance) until the loosened hair is removed. Then immediately wash the denuded surface well with warm water, and apply cold cream or some similar emollient as a dressing.

By weight
IV.—Alcohol 12 parts
Collodion 35 parts
Iodine 0.75 parts
Essence of turpentine 1.5 parts
Castor oil 2 parts

Apply with a brush on the affected parts for 3 or 4 days in thick coats. When the collodion plaster thus formed is pulled off, the hairs adhere to its inner surface.

V.—Rosin sticks are intended for the removal of hairs and are made from colophony with an admixture of 10 per cent of yellow wax. The sticks are heated like a stick of sealing wax until soft or semi-liquid (142° F.), and lightly applied on the place from which the hair is to be removed, and the mass is allowed to cool. These rosin sticks are said to give good satisfaction.

DEPTHINGS, VERIFICATION OF: See Watchmakers’ Formulas.

DESILVERING: See Plating.

DETERGENTS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

DEVELOPERS FOR PHOTOGRAPHIC PURPOSES: See Photography.

DEXTRIN PASTES AND MUCILAGES: See Adhesives.

DIAL CEMENTS: See Adhesives, under Jewelers’ Cements.

DIAL CLEANERS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

DIAL REPAIRING: See Watchmakers’ Formulas.

DIAMALT: See Milk.

«DIAMOND TESTS:»

See also Gems and Jewelers’ Formulas.

To Distinguish Genuine Diamonds.—If characters or marks of any kind are drawn with an aluminum pencil on glass, porcelain, or any substance containing silex, the marks cannot be erased by rubbing, however energetic the friction, and even acids will not cause them to disappear entirely, unless the surface is entirely freed from greasy matter, which can be accomplished by rubbing with whiting and passing a moistened cloth over the surface at the time of writing. So, in order to distinguish the true diamond from the false, it is necessary only to wipe the stone carefully and trace a line on it with an aluminum pencil, and then rub it briskly with a moistened cloth. If the line continues visible, the stone is surely false. If, on the contrary, the stone is a true diamond, the line will disappear without leaving a trace, and without injury to the stone.

The common test for recognizing the diamond is the file, which does not cut it, though it readily attacks imitations. There are other stones not affected by the file, but they have characteristics of color and other effects by which they are readily distinguished.

This test should be confirmed by others. From the following the reader can select the most convenient:

A piece of glass on which the edge of a diamond is drawn, will be cut without much pressure; a slight blow is sufficient to separate the glass. An imitation may scratch the glass, but this will not be cut as with the diamond. {261}

If a small drop of water is placed upon the face of a diamond and moved about by means of the point of a pin, it will preserve its globular form, provided the stone is clean and dry. If the attempt is made on glass, the drop will spread.

A diamond immersed in a glass of water will be distinctly visible, and will shine clearly through the liquid. The imitation stone will be confounded with the water and will be nearly invisible.

By looking through a diamond with a glass at a black point on a sheet of white paper, a single distinct point will be seen. Several points, or a foggy point will appear if the stone is spurious.

Hydrofluoric acid dissolves all imitations, but has no effect on true diamonds. This acid is kept in gutta-percha bottles.

For an eye practiced in comparisons it is not difficult to discern that the facets in the cut of a true diamond are not as regular as are those of the imitation; for in cutting and polishing the real stone an effort is made to preserve the original as much as possible, preferring some slight irregularities in the planes and edges to the loss in the weight, for we all know that diamonds are sold by weight. In an imitation, however, whether of paste or another less valuable stone, there is always an abundance of cheap material which may be cut away and thereby form a perfect-appearing stone.

Take a piece of a fabric, striped red and white, and draw the stone to be tested over the colors. If it is an imitation, the colors will be seen through it, while a diamond will not allow them to be seen.

A genuine diamond, rubbed on wood or metal, after having been previously exposed to the light of the electric arc, becomes phosphorescent in darkness, which does not occur with imitations.

Heat the stone to be tested, after giving it a coating of borax, and let it fall into cold water. A diamond will undergo the test without the slightest damage; the glass will be broken in pieces.

Finally, try with the fingers to crush an imitation and a genuine diamond between two coins, and you will soon see the difference.

DIAMOND CEMENT: See Adhesives, under Jewelers’ Cements.

DIARRHEA IN BIRDS: See Veterinary Formulas.

DIARRHEA REMEDIES: See Cholera Remedies.

«Die Venting.»—Many pressmen have spent hours and days in the endeavor to produce sharp and full impressions on figured patterns. If all the deep recesses in deep-figured dies are vented to allow the air to escape when the blow is struck, it will do much to obtain perfect impressions, and requires only half the force that is necessary in unvented dies. This is not known in many shops and consequently this little air costs much in power and worry.

«DIGESTIVE POWDERS AND TABLETS.»

I.—Sodium bicarbonate 93 parts
Sodium chlorate 4 parts
Calcium carbonate 3 parts
Pepsin 5 parts
Ammonium carbonate 1 part

II.—Sodium bicarbonate 120 parts
Sodium chlorate 5 parts
Sal physiologic (see below) 4 parts
Magnesium carbonate 10 parts

III.—Pepsin, saccharated (U. S. P.) 10 drachms
Pancreatin 10 drachms
Diastase 50 drachms
Acid, lactic 40 drops
Sugar of milk 40 drachms

IV.—Pancreatin 3 parts
Sodium bicarbonate 15 parts
Milk sugar 2 parts

«Sal Physiologicum.»—The formula for this ingredient, the so-called nutritive salt (_Nahrsalz_), is as follows:

Calcium phosphate 40 parts Potassium sulphate 2 parts Sodium phosphate 20 parts Sulphuric, precipitated 5 parts Sodium chlorate 60 parts Magnesium phosphate 5 parts Carlsbad salts, artificial 60 parts Silicic acid 10 parts Calcium fluoride 2 1/2 parts

«Digestive Tablets.»—

Powdered double refined sugar 300 parts Subnitrate bismuth 60 parts Saccharated pepsin 45 parts Pancreatin 45 parts Mucilage 35 parts Ginger 30 parts

Mix and divide into suitable sizes. {262}

DIOGEN DEVELOPER: See Photography.

DIP FOR BRASS: See Plating and Brass.

DIPS: See Metals.

DIPS FOR CATTLE: See Disinfectants and Veterinary Formulas.

DISH WASHING: See Household Formulas

«Disinfectants»

«Disinfecting Fluids.»—

I.—Creosote 40 gallons
Rosin, powdered 56 pounds
Caustic soda lye, 38° Tw 9 gallons
Boiling water 12 gallons
Methylated spirit 1 gallon
Black treacle 14 pounds

Melt the rosin and add the creosote; run in the lyes; then add the matter and methylated spirit mixed together, and add the treacle; boil all till dissolved and mix well together.

II.—Hot water 120 pounds
Caustic soda lye, 38° B 120 pounds
Rosin 300 pounds
Creosote 450 pounds

Boil together the water, lye, and rosin, till dissolved; turn off steam and stir in the creosote; keep on steam to nearly boiling all the time, but so as not to boil over, until thoroughly incorporated.

III.—Fresh-made soap (hard yellow) 7 pounds
Gas tar 21 pounds
Water, with 2 pounds soda 21 pounds

Dissolve soap (cut in fine shavings) in the gas tar; then add slowly the soda and water which has been dissolved.

IV.—Rosin 1 cwt.
Caustic soda lye, 18° B 16 gallons
Black tar oil 1/2 gallon
Nitro-naphthalene dissolved in boiling
water (about 1/2 gallon) 2 pounds

Melt the rosin, add the caustic lye; then stir in the tar oil and add the nitro-naphthalene.

V.—Camphor 1 ounce
Carbolic acid (75 per cent) 12 ounces
Aqua ammonia 10 drachms
Soft salt water 8 drachms

To be diluted when required for use.

VI.—Heavy tar oil 10 gallons
Caustic soda dissolved in 5 gallons water 600° F 30 pounds

Mix the soda lyes with the oil, and heat the mixture gently with constant stirring; add, when just on the boil, 20 pounds of refuse fat or tallow and 20 pounds of soft soap; continue the heat until thoroughly saponified, and add water gradually to make up 40 gallons. Let it settle; then decant the clear liquid.

«Disinfecting Fluids or Weed-Killers.»—

I.—Cold water, 20 gallons; powdered rosin, 56 pounds; creosote oil, 40 gallons; sulphuric acid, 1/2 gallon; caustic soda lye, 30° B., 9 gallons.

Heat water and dissolve the rosin; then add creosote and boil to a brown mass and shut off steam; next run in sulphuric acid and then the lyes.

II.—Water 40 gallons
Powdered black rosin 56 pounds
Sulphuric acid 2 1/2 gallons
Creosote 10 gallons
Melted pitch 24 pounds
Pearlash boiled in 10 gallons water 56 pounds

Boil water and dissolve rosin and acid; then add creosote and boil well again; add pitch and run in pearlash solution (boiling); then shut off steam.

III. (White).—Water, 40 gallons; turpentine, 2 gallons; ammonia, 1/2 gallon; carbolic crystals, 14 pounds; caustic lyes, 2 gallons; white sugar, 60 pounds, dissolved in 40 pounds water.

Heat water to boiling, and add first turpentine, next ammonia, and then carbolic crystals. Stir well until thoroughly dissolved, and add lyes and sugar solution.

«DISINFECTING POWDERS.»

I.—Sulphate of iron 100 parts
Sulphate of zinc 50 parts
Oak bark, powder 40 parts
Tar 5 parts
Oil 5 parts

II.—Mix together chloride of lime and burnt umber, add water, and set on plates. {263}

«Blue Sanitary Powder.»—

Powdered alum 2 pounds Oil of eucalyptus 12 ounces Rectified spirits of tar 6 ounces Rectified spirit of turpentine 2 ounces Ultramarine blue (common) 3/4 ounces Common salt 14 pounds

Mix alum with about 3 pounds of salt in a large mortar, gradually add oil of eucalyptus and spirits, then put in the ultramarine blue, and lastly remaining salt, mixing all well, and passing through a sieve.

«Carbolic Powder.» (Strong).—Slaked lime in fine powder, 1 cwt.; carbolic acid, 75 per cent, 2 gallons.

Color with aniline dye and then pass through a moderately fine sieve and put into tins or casks and keep air-tight.

«Pink Carbolized Sanitary Powder.»—

Powdered alum 6 ounces Powdered green copperas 5 pounds Powdered red lead 5 pounds Calvert’s No. 5 carbolic acid 12 1/2 pounds Spirit of turpentine 1 1/2 pounds Calais sand 10 pounds Slaked lime 60 pounds

Mix carbolic acid with turpentine and sand, then add the other ingredients, lastly the slaked lime and, after mixing, pass through a sieve. It is advisable to use lime that has been slaked some time.

«Cuspidor Powder.»—Peat rubble is ground to a powder, and 100 parts put into a mixing machine, which can be hermetically sealed. Then 15 parts of blue vitriol are added either very finely pulverized or in a saturated aqueous solution. Next are added 2 parts of formalin, and lastly 1 part of ground cloves, orange peel, or a sufficient quantity of some volatile oil, to give the desired perfume. The mixing machine is then closed, and kept at work until the constituents are perfectly mixed; the powder is then ready to be put up for the market. Its purpose is to effect a rapid absorption of the sputum, with simultaneous destruction of any microbes present, and to prevent decomposition and consequent unpleasant odors.

«Deodorants for Water-Closets.»—

I.—Ferric chloride 4 parts
Zinc chloride 5 parts
Aluminum chloride 5 parts
Calcium chloride 4 parts
Magnesium chloride 3 parts
Water sufficient to make 90 parts

Dissolve, and add to each gallon 10 grains thymol and 1/4 ounce oil of rosemary, previously dissolved in about 6 quarts of alcohol, and filter.

II.—Sulphuric acid, fuming 90 parts
Potassium permanganate 45 parts
Water 4,200 parts

Dissolve the permanganate in the water, and add under the acid. This is said to be a most powerful disinfectant, deodorizer, and germicide. It should not be used where there are metal trimmings.

«Formaldehyde for Disinfecting Books, Papers, etc.»—The property of formaldehyde of penetrating all kinds of paper, even when folded together in several layers, may be utilized for a perfect disinfection of books and letters, especially at a temperature of 86° to 122° F. in a closed room. The degree of penetration as well as the disinfecting power of the formaldehyde depend upon the method of generating the gas. Letters, paper in closed envelopes, are completely disinfected only in 12 hours, books in 24 hours at a temperature of 122° F. when 70 cubic centimeters of formo-chloral—17.5 g. of gas—per cubic meter of space are used. Books must be stood up in such a manner that the gas can enter from the sides. Bacilli of typhoid preserve their vitality longer upon unsized paper and on filtering paper than on other varieties.

There is much difference of opinion as to the disinfecting and deodorizing power of formaldehyde when used to disinfect wooden tierces. While some have found it to answer well, others have got variable results, or failed of success. The explanation seems to be that those who have obtained poor results have not allowed time for the disinfectant to penetrate the pores of the wood, the method of application being wrong. The solution is thrown into the tierce, which is then steamed out at once, whereby the aldehyde is volatilized before it has had time to do its work. If the formal and the steam, instead of being used in succession, were used together, the steam would carry the disinfectant into the pores of the wood. But a still better plan is to give the aldehyde more time. {264}

Another point to be remembered in all cases of disinfection by formaldehyde is that a mechanical cleansing must precede the action of the antiseptic. If there are thick deposits of organic matter which can be easily dislodged with a scrubbing brush, they can only be disinfected by the use of large quantities of formaldehyde used during a long period of time.

«General Disinfectants.»—

I.—Alum 10 ounces
Sodium carbonate 10 ounces
Ammonium chloride 2 ounces
Zinc chloride 1 ounce
Sodium chloride 2 ounces
Hydrochloric acid, quantity sufficient.
Water to make 1 gallon.

Dissolve the alum in one half gallon of boiling water, and add the sodium carbonate; then add hydrochloric acid until the precipitate formed is dissolved. Dissolve the other salt in water and add to the previous solution. Finally add enough water to make the whole measure 1 gallon, and filter.

In use, this is diluted with 7 parts of water.

II.—For the Sick Room.—In using this ventilate frequently: Guaiac, 10 parts; eucalyptol, 8 parts; phenol, 6 parts; menthol, 4 parts; thymol, 2 parts; oil of cloves, 1 part; alcohol of 90 per cent, 170 parts.

Atomizer Liquid for Sick Rooms.—

III.—Eucalyptol 10 parts by weight
Thyme oil 5 parts by weight
Lemon oil 5 parts by weight
Lavender oil 5 parts by weight
Spirit, 90 per cent 110 parts by weight

To a pint of water a teaspoonful for evaporation.

Non-Poisonous Sheep Dips.—Paste.—

I.—Creosote (containing 15 per cent
to 20 per cent of carbolic acid) 2 parts
Stearine or Yorkshire grease specific
gravity, 1340 1 part
Black rosin, 5 per cent to 10 per cent.

Melt the rosin and add grease and soda lyes, and then add creosote cold.

II.—Creosote 1 part
Crude hard rosin oil 1 part

Put rosin oil in copper and heat to about 220° F., and add as much caustic soda powder, 98 per cent strength, as the oil will take up. The quantity depends upon the amount of acetic acid in the oil. If too much soda is added it will remain at the bottom. When the rosin oil has taken up the soda add creosote, and let it stand.

«Odorless Disinfectants.»—

I.—Ferric chloride 4 parts
Zinc chloride 5 parts
Aluminum chloride 5 parts
Calcium chloride 4 parts
Manganese chloride 3 parts
Water 69 parts

If desired, 10 grains thymol and 2 fluidrachms oil of rosemary, previously dissolved in about 12 fluidrachms of alcohol, may be added to each gallon.

II.—Alum 10 parts
Sodium carbonate 10 parts
Ammonium chloride 2 parts
Sodium chloride 2 parts
Zinc chloride 1 part
Hydrochloric acid, sufficient.
Water 100 parts

Dissolve the alum in about 50 parts boiling water and add the sodium carbonate. The resulting precipitate of aluminum hydrate dissolve with the aid of just sufficient hydrochloric acid, and add the other ingredients previously dissolved in the remainder of the water.

III.—Mercuric chloride 1 part
Cupric sulphate 10 parts
Zinc sulphate 50 parts
Sodium chloride 65 parts
Water to make 1,000 parts.

«Paris Salts.»—The disinfectant known by this name is a mixture made from the following recipe:

Zinc sulphate 49 parts Ammonia alum 49 parts Potash permanganate 1 part Lime 1 part

The ingredients are fused together, mixed with a little calcium chloride, and perfumed with thymol.

«Platt’s Chlorides.»—

I.—Aluminum sulphate 6 ounces
Zinc chloride 1 1/2 ounces
Sodium chloride 2 ounces
Calcium chloride 3 ounces
Water enough to make 2 pints.

II.—A more elaborate formula for a preparation said to resemble the proprietary article is as follows: {265}

Zinc, in strips 4 ounces Lead carbonate 2 ounces Chlorinated lime 1 ounce Magnesium carbonate 1/2 ounce Aluminum hydrate 1 1/2 ounces Potassium hydrate 1/2 ounce Hydrochloric acid 16 ounces Water 16 ounces Whiting, enough.

Dissolve the zinc in the acid; then add the other salts singly in the order named, letting each dissolve before the next is added. When all are dissolved add the water to the solution, and after a couple of hours add a little whiting to neutralize any excess of acid; then filter.

Zinc chloride ranks very low among disinfectants, and the use of such solutions as these, by giving a false sense of security from disease germs, may be the means of spreading rather than of checking the spread of sickness.

«Disinfecting Coating.»—Carbolic acid, 2 parts; manganese, 3 parts; calcium chloride, 2 parts; china clay, 10 parts; infusorial earth, 4 parts; dextrin, 2 parts; and water, 10 parts.

DISTEMPER IN CATTLE: See Veterinary Formulas.

DIURETIC BALL: See Veterinary Formulas.

DOG APPLICATIONS: See Insecticides.

«DOG BISCUIT.»

The waste portions of meat and tallow, including the skin and fiber, have for years been imported from South American tallow factories in the form of blocks. Most of the dog bread consists principally of these remnants, chopped and mixed with flour. They contain a good deal of firm fibrous tissue, and a large percentage of fat, but are lacking in nutritive salts, which must be added to make good dog bread, just as in the case of the meat flour made from the waste of meat extract factories. The flesh of dead animals is not used by any reputable manufacturers, for the reason that it gives a dark color to the dough, has an unpleasant odor, and if not properly sterilized would be injurious to dogs as a steady diet.

Wheat flour, containing as little bran as possible, is generally used, oats, rye, or Indian meal being only mixed in to make special varieties, or, as in the case of Indian meal, for cheapness. Rye flour would give a good flavor, but it dries slowly, and the biscuits would have to go through a special process of drying after baking, else they would mold and spoil. Dog bread must be made from good wheat flour, of a medium sort, mixed with 15 or 16 per cent of sweet, dry chopped meat, well baked and dried like pilot bread or crackers. This is the rule for all the standard dog bread on the market. There are admixtures which affect more or less its nutritive value, such as salt, vegetables, chopped bones, or bone meal, phosphate of lime, and other nutritive salts. In preparing the dough and in baking, care must be taken to keep it light and porous.

DOG DISEASES AND THEIR REMEDIES: See Veterinary Formulas.

DOG SOAP: See Soap.

DONARITE: See Explosives.

DOORS, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

«DOSES FOR ADULTS AND CHILDREN.»