Henley's Twentieth Century Formulas, Recipes and Processes

Chapter I: II III IV V (1)

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Yellow wax 32 32 32 96 36 Red chalk 3 24 18 48 18 Verdigris 2 4 18 32 18 Burnt alum 2 4 — — — Burnt borax — — 2 1 3 Copper ash — 4 6 20 8 Zinc vitriol — — — 32 18 Green vitriol — — — 1 6

«Grafting Wax.»—

I.—Beeswax 7 parts
Purified rosin 12 parts
Turpentine 3 parts
Rape oil 1 part
Venice turpentine 2.5 parts
Zinc white 2.5 parts

Color yellow with turmeric.

II.—Japan wax 1 part
Yellow wax 3 parts
Rosin 8 parts
Turpentine 4 parts
Hard paraffine 1 part
Suet 3 parts
Venice turpentine 6 parts

«Harness Wax.»—

Oil of turpentine 90 parts Wax, yellow 9 parts Prussian blue 1 part Indigo 0.5 parts Bone black 5 parts

Dissolve the wax in the oil by aid of a low heat, on a water bath. Mix the remaining ingredients, which must be well powdered, and work up with a portion of the solution of wax. Finally, add the mixture to the solution, and mix thoroughly on the bath. When a homogeneous liquid is obtained, pour into earthen boxes.

«Modeling Wax.»—I.—Yellow wax, 1,000 parts; Venice turpentine, 130 parts; lard, 65 parts; bole, 725 parts. The mixture when still liquid is poured into tepid water and kneaded until a plastic mass is obtained.

II.—Summer Modeling Wax.—White wax, 20 parts; ordinary turpentine, 4 parts; sesame oil, 1 part; vermilion, 2 parts.

III.—Winter Modeling Wax.—White wax, 20 parts; ordinary turpentine, 6 parts; sesame oil, 2 parts; vermilion, 2 parts. Preparation same as for Formula I.

«Sealing Waxes.»—The following formulas may be followed for making sealing wax: Take 4 pounds of shellac, 1 pound of Venice turpentine, and 3 pounds of vermilion. Melt the lac in a copper pan suspended over a clear charcoal fire, then add the turpentine slowly to it, and soon afterwards add the vermilion, stirring briskly all the time with a rod in either hand. In forming the round sticks of sealing wax, a certain portion of the mass should be weighed while it is ductile, divided into the desired number of pieces, and then rolled out upon a warm marble slab by means of a smooth wooden block like that used by apothecaries for rolling a mass of pills.

The oval and square sticks of sealing wax are cast in molds, with the above compound, in a state of fusion. The marks of the lines of junction of the mold box may be afterwards removed by holding the sticks over a clear fire, or passing them over a blue gas flame. Marbled sealing wax is made by mixing {756} two, three, or more colored kinds together while they are in a semi-fluid state. From the viscidity of the several portions their incorporation is left incomplete, so as to produce the appearance of marbling. Gold sealing wax is made simply by adding gold chrome instead of vermilion into the melted rosins. Wax may be scented by introducing a little essential oil, essence of musk, or other perfume. If 1 part of balsam of Peru be melted along with 99 parts of the sealing-wax composition, an agreeable fragrance will be exhaled in the act of sealing with it. Either lampblack or ivory black serves for the coloring matter of black wax. Sealing wax is often adulterated with rosin, in which case it runs into thin drops at the flame of a candle.

The following mistakes are sometimes made in the manufacture of sealing wax:

I.—Use of filling agents which are too coarsely ground.

II.—Excessive use of filling agents.

III.—Insufficient binding of the pigments and fillings with a suitable adhesive agent, which causes these bodies to absorb the adhesive power of the gums.

IV.—Excessive heating of the mass, caused by improper melting or faulty admixture of the gummy bodies. Turpentine and rosin must be heated before entering the shellac. If this rule is inverted, as is often the case, the shellac sticks to the bottom and burns partly.

Great care must be taken to mix the coloring matter to a paste with spirit or oil of turpentine before adding to the other ingredients. Unless this is done the wax will not be of a regular tint.

«Dark Blue Wax.»—Three ounces Venetian turpentine, 4 ounces shellac, 1 ounce rosin, 1 ounce Prussian blue, 1/2 ounce magnesia.

«Green Wax.»—Two ounces Venetian turpentine, 4 ounces shellac, 1 1/4 ounces rosin, 1/2 ounce chrome yellow, 1/4 ounce Prussian blue, 1 ounce magnesia.

«Carmine Red Wax.»—One ounce Venetian turpentine, 4 ounces shellac, 1 ounce rosin, colophony, 1 1/4 ounces Chinese red, 1 drachm magnesia, with oil of turpentine.

«Gold Wax.»—Four ounces Venetian turpentine, 8 ounces shellac, 14 sheets of genuine leaf gold, 1/2 ounce bronze, 1/2 ounce magnesia, with oil of turpentine.

«White Wax.»—I.—The wax is bleached by exposing to moist air and to the sun, but it must first be prepared in thin sheets or ribbons or in grains. For this purpose it is first washed, to free it from the honey which may adhere, melted, and poured into a tin vessel, whose bottom is perforated with narrow slits. The melted wax falls in a thin stream on a wooden cylinder arranged below and half immersed in cold water. This cylinder is turned, and the wax, rolling round in thin leaves, afterwards falls into the water. To melt it in grains, a vessel is made use of, perforated with small openings, which can be rotated. The wax is projected in grains into the cold water. It is spread on frames of muslin, moistened with water several times a day, and exposed to the sun until the wax assumes a fine white. This whiteness, however, is not perfect. The operation of melting and separating into ribbons or grains must be renewed. Finally, it is melted and flowed into molds. The duration of the bleaching may be abridged by adding to the wax, treated as above, from 1.25 to 1.75 per cent of rectified oil of turpentine, free from rosin. In 6 or 8 days a result will be secured which would otherwise require 5 or 6 weeks.

II.—Bleached shellac 28 parts
Venetian turpentine 13 parts
Plaster of Paris 30 parts

WAX FOR BOTTLES: See Photography.

WAX, BURNING, TRICK: See Pyrotechnics.

WAXES, DECOMPOSITION OF: See Oil.

WAX FOR IRONING: See Laundry Preparations.

WAX FOR LINOLEUM: See Linoleum.

«Weather Forecasters»

(See also Hygrometers and Hygroscopes.)

I.—It is known that a leaf of blotting paper or a strip of fabric made to change color according to the hygrometric state of the atmosphere has been employed for weather indications in place of a barometer. The following compound is recommended for this purpose: One part of cobalt chloride, 75 parts of nickel oxide, 20 parts of gelatin, and 200 parts of water. A strip of calico, soaked in this solution, will appear green in fine weather, but when moisture intervenes the color disappears. {757}

II.—Copper chloride 1 part
Gelatin 10 parts
Water 100 parts

III.—This is a method of making old-fashioned weather glasses containing a liquid that clouds or solidifies under certain atmospheric conditions:

Camphor 2 1/2 drachms Alcohol 11 drachms Water 9 drachms Saltpeter 38 grains Sal ammoniac 38 grains

Dissolve the camphor in the alcohol and the salts in the water and mix the solutions together. Pour in test tubes, cover with wax after corking and make a hole through the cork with a red-hot needle, or draw out the tube until only a pin hole remains. When the camphor, etc., appear soft and powdery, and almost filling the tube, rain with south or southwest winds may be expected; when crystalline, north, northeast, or northwest winds, with fine weather, may be expected; when a portion crystallizes on one side of the tube, wind may be expected from that direction. Fine weather: The substance remains entirely at bottom of tube and the liquid perfectly clear. Coming rain: Substance will rise gradually, liquid will be very clear, with a small star in motion. A coming storm or very high wind: Substance partly at top of tube, and of a leaflike form, liquid very heavy and in a fermenting state. These effects are noticeable 24 hours before the change sets in. In winter: Generally the substance lies higher in the tube. Snow or white frost: Substance very white and small stars in motion. Summer weather: The substance will lie quite low. The substance will lie closer to the tube on the opposite side to the quarter from which the storm is coming. The instrument is nothing more than a scientific toy.

WEATHERPROOFING: See Paints.

WEED KILLERS: See Disinfectants.

«Weights and Measures»

«INTERNATIONAL ATOMIC WEIGHTS.»

The International Committee on Atomic Weights have presented this table as corrected:

O=16 H=1 Aluminum Al 27.1 26.9 Antimony Sb 120.2 119.3 Argon A 39.9 39.6 Arsenic As 75 74.4 Barium Ba 137.4 136.4 Bismuth Bi 208.5 206.9 Boron B 11 10.9 Bromine Br 79.96 79.36 Cadmium Cd 112.4 111.6 Cæsium Cs 132.9 131.9 Calcium Ca 40.1 39.7 Carbon C 12 11.91 Cerium Ce 140.25 139.2 Chlorine Cl 35.45 35.18 Chromium Cr 52.1 51.7 Cobalt Co 59 58.55 Columbium Cb 94 93.3 Copper Cu 63.6 63.1 Erbium Er 166 164.8 Fluorine F 19 18.9 Gadolinium Gd 156 154.8 Gallium Ga 70 69.5 Germanium Ge 72.5 72 Glucinum Gl 9.1 9.03 Gold Au 197.2 195.7 Helium He 4 4 Hydrogen H 1.008 1 Indium In 115 114.1 Iodine I 126.97 126.01 Iridium Ir 193 191.5 Iron Fe 55.9 55.5 Krypton Kr 81.8 81.2 Lanthanum La 138.9 137.9 Lead Pb 206.9 205.35 Lithium Li 7.03 6.98 Magnesium Mg 24.36 24.18 Manganese Mn 55 54.6 Mercury Hg 200 198.5 Molybdenum Mo 96 95.3 Neodymium Nd 143.6 142.5 Neon Ne 20 19.9 Nickel Ni 58.7 58.3 Nitrogen N 14.04 13.93 Osmium Os 191 189.6 Oxygen O 16 15.88 Palladium Pd 106.5 105.7 Phosphorus P 31 30.77 Platinum Pt 194.8 193.3 Potassium K 39.15 38.85 Praseodymium Pr 140.5 139.4 Radium Ra 225 223.3 Rhodium Rh 103 102.2 Rubidium Rb 85.5 84.9 Ruthenium Ru 101.7 100.9 Samarium Sm 150.3 149.2 Scandium Sc 44.1 43.8 Selenium Se 79.2 78.6 Silicon Si 28.4 28.2 Silver Ag 107.93 107.11 Sodium Na 23.05 22.88 Strontium Sr 87.6 86.94 Sulphur S 32.06 31.82 Tantalum Ta 183 181.6 Tellurium Te 127.6 126.6 Terbium Th 160 158.8 Thallium Tl 204.1 202.6 {758} Thorium Th 232.5 230.8 Thulium Tm 171 169.7 Tin Sn 119 118.1 Titanium Ti 48.1 47.7 Tungsten W 184 182.6 Uranium U 238.5 236.7 Vanadium V 51.2 50.8 Xenon Xe 128 127 Ytterbium Yb 173 171.7 Yttrium Yt 89 88.3 Zinc Zn 65.4 64.9 Zirconium Zr 90.6 89.9

«UNITED STATES WEIGHTS AND MEASURES»

(According to existing standards)

«LINEAL»

│ Inches. Feet. Yards. Rods. Fur’s. Mile.
│
12 inches = 1 foot. │ 12 = 1
3 feet = 1 yard. │ 36 = 3 = 1
5.5 yards = 1 rod. │ 198 = 16.5 = 5.5 = 1
40 rods = 1 furlong. │ 7,920 = 660 = 220 = 40 = 1
8 furlongs = 1 mile. │ 63,360 = 5,280 = 1,760 = 320 = 8 = 1

«SURFACE—LAND»

144 sq. inches = 1 square foot. │ Feet. Yards. Rods. Roods. Acres. 9 square feet = 1 square yard. │ 9 = 1 30.25 square yards = 1 square rod.│ 272.25= 30.25= 1 40 square rods = 1 square rood. │ 10,890= 1,210= 40= 1 4 square roods = 1 acre. │ 43,560= 4,840= 160= 4= 1 640 acres = 1 square mile. │27,878,400= 3,097,600= 102,400= 2,560= 640

«VOLUME—LIQUID»

4 gills = 1 pint. │ Gills. Pints. Gallon. Cub. In. 2 pints = 1 quart. │ 32 = 8 = 1 = 231 4 quarts = 1 gallon. │

«FLUID MEASURE»

Gallon. Pints. Ounces. Drachms. Minims. Cubic Centimeters.

1 = 8 = 128 = 1,024 = 61,440 = 3,785.435
1 = 16 = 128 = 7,680 = 473.179
1 = 8 = 480 = 29.574
1 = 60 = 3.697

16 ounces, or a pint, is sometimes called a fluidpound.

«TROY WEIGHT»

Pound. Ounces. Pennyweights. Grains. Grams.

1 = 12 = 240 = 5,760 = 373.24
1 = 20 = 480 = 31.10
1 = 24 = 1.56

«APOTHECARIES’ WEIGHT»

℔ ℥ ʒ ℈ gr.
Pound. Ounces. Drachms. Scruples. Grains. Grams.

1 = 12 = 96 = 288 = 5,760 = 373.24
1 = 8 = 24 = 480 = 31.10
1 = 3 = 60 = 3.89
1 = 20 = 1.30
1 = .06

The pound, ounce, and grain are the same as in Troy weight.

«AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHT»

Pound. Ounces. Drachms. Grains (Troy) Grams.

1 = 16 = 256 = 7,000 = 453.60
1 = 16 = 437.5 = 28.35
1 = 27.34 = 1.77

«ENGLISH WEIGHTS AND MEASURES»

«APOTHECARIES’ WEIGHT»

20 grains = 1 scruple = 20 grains
3 scruples = 1 drachm = 60 grains
8 drachms = 1 ounce = 480 grains
12 ounces = 1 pound = 5,760 grains

«FLUID MEASURE»

60 minims = 1 fluidrachm
8 drachms = 1 fluidounce
20 ounces = 1 pint
8 pints = 1 gallon

The above weights are usually adopted in formulas.

All chemicals are usually sold by

«AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHT»

27 11/32 grains = 1 drachm = 27 11/32 grains 16 drachms = 1 ounce = 437 1/2 grains 16 ounces = 1 pound = 7,000 grains

Precious metals are usually sold by

«TROY WEIGHT»

24 grains = 1 pennyweight = 24 grains 20 pennyweights = 1 ounce = 480 grains 12 ounces = 1 pound = 5,760 grains

NOTE.—An ounce of metallic silver contains 480 grains, but an ounce of nitrate of silver contains only 437 1/2 grains. {759}

«METRIC SYSTEM OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES»

«MEASURES OF LENGTH»

───────────────────────────────────+────────────────────────────────────────── DENOMINATIONS AND VALUES. │ EQUIVALENTS IN USE. ───────────+───────────────────────+────────────────────────────────────────── Myriameter │ 10,000 meters │ 6.2137 miles Kilometer │ 1,000 meters │ .62137 miles, or 3,280 feet, 10 inches Hectometer │ 100 meters │ 328 feet and 1 inch Dekameter │ 10 meters │ 393.7 inches Meter │ 1 meter │ 39.37 inches Decimeter │ 1-10th of a meter │ 3.937 inches Centimeter │ 1-100th of a meter │ .3937 inches Millimeter │ 1-1,000th of a meter │ .0394 inches ───────────+───────────────────────+──────────────────────────────────────────

«MEASURES OF SURFACE»

───────────────────────────────+──────────────────────── DENOMINATIONS AND VALUES. │ EQUIVALENTS IN USE. ────────+──────────────────────+──────────────────────── Hectare │ 10,000 square meters │ 2.471 acres Are │ 100 square meters │ 119.6 square yards Centare │ 1 square meter │ 1,550 square inches ────────+──────────────────────+────────────────────────

«MEASURES OF VOLUME»

───────────────────────────────────────────────────+──────────────────────────────────── DENOMINATIONS AND VALUES. │ EQUIVALENTS IN USE. ──────────────────+───────+────────────────────────+───────────────────+──────────────── NAMES. │NO. OF │ CUBIC MEASURES. │ DRY MEASURE. │ WINE MEASURE. │LITERS.│ │ │ ──────────────────+───────+────────────────────────+───────────────────+──────────────── Kiloliter or stere│ 1,000│ 1 cubic meter │1.308 cubic yards │264.17 gallons Hectoliter │ 100│1-10th cubic meter │2 bushels and │ 26.417 gallons │ │ │ 3.35 pecks│ Dekaliter │ 10│ 10 cubic decimeters │9.08 quarts │ 2.6417 gallons Liter │ 1│ 1 cubic decimeter │ .908 quarts │ 1.0567 quarts Deciliter │ 1-10│1-10th cubic decimeter │6.1023 cubic inches│ .845 gills Centiliter │ 1-100│ 10 cubic centimeters│ .6102 cubic inches│ .338 fluidounces Milliliter │1-1,000│ 1 cubic centimeter │ .061 cubic inches│ .27 fluidrachms ──────────────────+───────+────────────────────────+───────────────────+────────────────

«WEIGHTS»

─────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────+─────────────────── DENOMINATIONS AND VALUES. │ EQUIVALENTS │ IN USE. ───────────────────+───────────+─────────────────────────────+─────────────────── NAMES. │ NUMBER │ WEIGHT OF VOLUME OF WATER │ AVOIRDUPOIS │ OF GRAMS. │ AT ITS MAXIMUM DENSITY. │ WEIGHT. ───────────────────+───────────+─────────────────────────────+─────────────────── Millier or Tonneau │ 1,000,000 │ 1 cubic meter │ 2,204.6 pounds Quintal │ 100,000 │ 1 hectoliter │ 220.46 pounds Myriagram │ 10,000 │ 10 liters │ 22.046 pounds Kilogram or Kilo │ 1,000 │ 1 liter │ 2.2046 pounds Hectogram │ 100 │ 1 deciliter │ 3.5274 ounces Dekagram │ 10 │ 10 cubic centimeters │ .3527 ounces Gram │ 1 │ 1 cubic centimeter │ 15.432 grains Decigram │ 1-10 │ 1-10th of a cubic centimeter│ 1.5432 grains Centigram │ 1-100 │ 10 cubic millimeters │ .1543 grains Milligram │ 1-1,000 │ 1 cubic millimeter │ .0154 grains ───────────────────+───────────+─────────────────────────────+───────────────────

_For measuring surfaces_, the square dekameter is used under the term of ARE; the hectare, or 100 ares, is equal to about 2 1/2 acres. _The unit of capacity_ is the cubic decimeter or LITER, and the series of measures is formed in the same way as in the case of the table of lengths. The cubic meter is the unit of measure for solid bodies, and is termed STERE. _The unit of weight_ is the GRAM, which is the weight of one cubic centimeter of pure water weighed in a vacuum at the temperature of 4° C. or 39.2° F., which is about its temperature of maximum density. In practice, the term cubic centimeter, abbreviated c.c., is generally used instead of milliliter, and cubic meter instead of kiloliter. {760}

«THE CONVERSION OF METRIC INTO ENGLISH WEIGHT»

The following table, which contains no error greater than one-tenth of a grain, will suffice for most practical purposes:

1 gram = 15 2/5 grains
2 grams = 30 4/5 grains
3 grams = 46 1/5 grains
4 grams = 61 4/5 grains, or 1 drachm, 1 4/5 grains
5 grams = 77 1/5 grains, or 1 drachm, 17 1/5 grains
6 grams = 92 3/5 grains, or 1 drachm, 32 3/5 grains
7 grams = 108 grains, or 1 drachm, 48 grains
8 grams = 123 2/5 grains, or 2 drachms, 3 2/5 grains
9 grams = 138 4/5 grains, or 2 drachms, 18 4/5 grains
10 grams = 154 2/5 grains, or 2 drachms, 34 2/5 grains
11 grams = 169 4/5 grains, or 2 drachms, 49 4/5 grains
12 grams = 185 1/5 grains, or 3 drachms, 20 1/5 grains
13 grams = 200 3/5 grains, or 3 drachms, 20 3/5 grains
14 grams = 216 grains, or 3 drachms, 36 grains
15 grams = 231 2/5 grains, or 3 drachms, 51 2/5 grains
16 grams = 247 grains, or 4 drachms, 7 grains
17 grams = 262 2/5 grains, or 4 drachms, 22 2/5 grains
18 grams = 277 4/5 grains, or 4 drachms, 37 4/5 grains
19 grams = 293 1/5 grains, or 4 drachms, 53 1/5 grains
20 grams = 308 3/5 grains, or 5 drachms, 8 3/5 grains
30 grams = 463 grains, or 7 drachms, 43 grains
40 grams = 617 1/5 grains, or 10 drachms, 17 1/5 grains
50 grams = 771 3/5 grains, or 12 drachms, 51 3/5 grains
60 grams = 926 grains, or 15 drachms, 26 grains
70 grams = 1,080 1/5 grains, or 18 drachms, 0 1/5 grains
80 grams = 1,234 3/5 grains, or 20 drachms, 34 3/5 grains
90 grams = 1,389 grains, or 23 drachms, 9 grains
100 grams = 1,543 1/5 grains, or 25 drachms, 43 1/5 grains
1,000 grams = 1 kilogram = 32 ounces, 1 drachm, 12 2/5 grains

«THE CONVERSION OF METRIC INTO ENGLISH MEASURE»

1 cubic centimeter = 17 minims
2 cubic centimeters = 34 minims
3 cubic centimeters = 51 minims
4 cubic centimeters = 68 minims, or 1 drachm, 8 minims
5 cubic centimeters = 85 minims, or 1 drachm, 25 minims
6 cubic centimeters = 101 minims, or 1 drachm, 41 minims
7 cubic centimeters = 118 minims, or 1 drachm, 58 minims
8 cubic centimeters = 135 minims, or 1 drachms, 15 minims
9 cubic centimeters = 152 minims, or 2 drachms, 32 minims
10 cubic centimeters = 169 minims, or 2 drachms, 49 minims
20 cubic centimeters = 338 minims, or 5 drachms, 38 minims
30 cubic centimeters = 507 minims, or 1 ounce, 0 drachm, 27 minims
40 cubic centimeters = 676 minims, or 1 ounce, 3 drachms, 16 minims
50 cubic centimeters = 845 minims, or 1 ounce, 6 drachms, 5 minims
60 cubic centimeters = 1,014 minims, or 2 ounces, 0 drachms, 54 minims
70 cubic centimeters = 1,183 minims, or 2 ounces, 3 drachms, 43 minims
80 cubic centimeters = 1,352 minims, or 2 ounces, 6 drachms, 32 minims
90 cubic centimeters = 1,521 minims, or 3 ounces, 1 drachm, 21 minims
100 cubic centimeters = 1,690 minims, or 3 ounces, 4 drachms, 10 minims
1,000 cubic centimeters = 1 liter = 34 fluidounces nearly, or 2 1/8 pints.

{761}

«WELDING POWDERS.»

See also Sponges.

An attractive window display for stores can be prepared as follows:

In a wide-mouth jar put some sand, say, about 6 inches in depth. Make a mixture of equal parts of aluminum sulphate, copper sulphate, and iron sulphate, coarsely powdered, and strew it over the surface of the sand. Over this layer gently pour a solution of sodium silicate, dissolved in 3 parts of hot water, taking care not to disturb the layer of sulphates. In about a week or 10 days the surface will be covered with crystals of different colors, being silicates of different metals employed. Now take some pure water and let it run into the vessel by a small tube, using a little more of it than you used of the water-glass solution. This will displace the water-glass solution, and a fresh crop of crystals will come in the silicates, and makes, when properly done, a pretty scene. Take care in pouring in the water to let the point of the tube be so arranged as not to disturb the crop of silicates.

«WINDOW PERFUME.»

In Paris an apparatus has been introduced consisting of a small tube which is attached lengthwise on the exterior of the shop windows. Through numerous little holes a warm, lightly perfumed current of air is passed, which pleasantly tickles the olfactory nerves of the looker-on and at the same time keeps the panes clear and clean, so that the goods exhibited present the best possible appearance.

WINDOW POLISHES: See Polishes.

WINDOWS, FROSTED: See Glass.

WINDOWS, TO PREVENT DIMMING OF: See Glass.

«Wines and Liquors»

«BITTERS.»

Bitters, as the name indicates, are merely tinctures of bitter roots and barks, with the addition of spices to flavor, and depend for their effect upon their tonic action on the stomach. Taken too frequently, however, they may do harm, by overstimulating the digestive organs.

The recipes for some of these preparations run to great lengths, one for Angostura bitters containing no fewer than 28 ingredients. A very good article, however, may be made without all this elaboration. The following, for instance, make a very good preparation:

Gentian root (sliced) 12 ounces Cinnamon bark 10 ounces Caraway seeds 10 ounces Juniper berries 2 ounces Cloves 1 ounce Alcohol, 90 per cent 7 pints

Macerate for a week; strain, press out, and filter, then add

Capillaire 1 1/4 pints Water to make up 2 1/2 gallons

Strength about 45 u. p.

Still another formula calls for Angostura bark, 2 1/2 ounces; gentian root, 1 ounce; cardamom seeds, 1/2 ounce; Turkey rhubarb, 1/2 ounce; orange peel, 4 ounces; caraways, 1/2 ounce; cinnamon bark, 1/2 ounce; cloves, 1/4 ounce.

«Brandy Bitters.»—

Sliced gentian root 3 pounds Dried orange peel 2 pounds Cardamom seed 1 pound Bruised cinnamon 1/2 pound Cochineal 2 ounces Brandy 10 pints

Macerate for 14 days and strain.

«Hostetter’s Bitters.»—

Calamus root 1 pound Orange peel 1 pound Peruvian bark 1 pound Gentian root 1 pound {763} Calumba root 1 pound Rhubarb root 4 ounces Cinnamon bark 2 ounces Cloves 1 ounce Diluted alcohol 2 gallons Water 1 gallon Sugar 1 pound

Macerate together for 2 weeks.

«CORDIALS.»

Cordials, according to the _Spatula_, are flavored liquors containing from 40 to 50 per cent of alcohol (from 52 to 64 fluidounces to each gallon) and from 20 to 25 per cent of sugar (from 25 to 32 ounces avoirdupois to each gallon).

Cordials, while used in this country to some degree, have their greatest consumption in foreign lands, especially in France and Germany.

Usually such mixtures as these are clarified or “fined” only with considerable difficulty, as the finally divided particles of oil pass easily through the pores of the filter paper. Purified talcum will be found to be an excellent clarifying medium; it should be agitated with the liquid and the liquid then passed through a thoroughly wetted filter. The filtrate should be returned again and again to the filter until it filters perfectly bright. Purified talcum being chemically inert is superior to magnesium carbonate and other substances which are recommended for this purpose.

When the filtering process is completed the liquids should at once be put into suitable bottles which should be filled and tightly corked and sealed. Wrap the bottles in paper and store away, laying the bottles on their sides in a moderately warm place. A shelf near the ceiling is a good place. Warmth and age improve the beverages, as it appears to more perfectly blend the flavors, so that the older the liquor becomes the better it is. These liquids must never be kept in a cold place, as the cold might cause the volatile oils to separate.

The following formulas are for the production of cordials of the best quality, and therefore only the very best of materials should be used; the essential oils should be of unquestionable quality and strictly fresh, while the alcohol must be free from fusel oil, the water distilled, and the sugar white, free from bluing, and if liquors of any kind should be called for in any formula only the very best should be used. The oils and other flavoring substances should be dissolved in the alcohol and the sugar in the water. Then mix the two solutions and filter clear.

«Alkermes Cordial.»—

Mace 1 1/2 avoirdupois ounces Ceylon cinnamon 1 1/8 avoirdupois ounces Cloves 3/4 avoirdupois ounce Rose water (best) 6 fluidounces Sugar 28 avoirdupois ounces Deodorized alcohol 52 fluidounces Distilled water, q. s. 1 gallon

Reduce the mace, cinnamon, and cloves to a coarse powder macerate with the alcohol for several days, agitating occasionally, then add the remaining ingredients, and filter clear.

«Anise Cordial.»—

Anethol 7 fluidrachms Oil of fennel seed 80 minims Oil of bitter almonds 16 drops Deodorized alcohol 8 pints Simple syrup 5 pints Distilled water, q. s. 16 pints

Mix the oils and anethol with the alcohol and the syrup with the water; mix the two and filter clear, as directed.

«Blackberry Cordial.»—This beverage is usually misnamed “blackberry brandy” or “blackberry wine.” This latter belongs only to wines obtained by the fermentation of the blackberry juice. When this is distilled then a true blackberry brandy is obtained, just as ordinary brandy is obtained by distilling ordinary wines.

The name is frequently applied to a preparation containing blackberry root often combined with other astringents, but the true blackberry cordial is made according to the formulas given herewith. Most of these mention brandy, and this article should be good and fusel free, or it may be replaced by good whisky, or even by diluted alcohol, depending on whether a high-priced or cheap cordial is desired.

I.—Fresh blackberry juice, 3 pints; sugar, 7 1/2 ounces; water, 30 fluidounces; brandy, 7 1/2 pints; oil of cloves, 3 drops; oil of cinnamon, 3 drops; alcohol, 6 fluidrachms. Dissolve the sugar in the water and juice, then add the liquor. Dissolve the oils in the alcohol and add 1/2 to the first solution, and if not sufficiently flavored add more of the second solution. Then filter.

II.—Fresh blackberry juice, 4 pints; powdered nutmeg (fresh), 1 ounce; powdered cinnamon (fresh), 1 ounce; powdered pimento (fresh), 1/2 ounce; powdered cloves {764} (fresh), 1/2 ounce; brandy, 2 1/2 pints; sugar, 2 1/2 pounds. Macerate the spices in the brandy for several days. Dissolve the sugar in the juice and mix and filter clear.

«Cherry Cordials.»—

I.—Oil of bitter almonds 8 drops
Oil of cinnamon 1 drop
Oil of cloves 1 drop
Acetic ether 12 drops
Ceuanthic ether 1 drop
Vanilla extract 1 drachm
Alcohol 3 pints
Sugar 3 pounds
Cherry juice 20 ounces
Distilled water, q. s. 1 gallon

The oils, ethers, and extracts must be dissolved in the alcohol, the sugar in part of the water, then mix, add the juice and filter clear. When the juice is not sufficiently sour, add a small amount of solution of citric acid. To color, use caramel.

II.—Vanilla extract 10 drops
Oil of cinnamon 10 drops
Oil of bitter almonds 10 drops
Oil of cloves 3 drops
Oil of nutmeg 3 drops
Alcohol 2 1/2 pints
Cherry juice 2 1/2 pints
Simple syrup 3 pints

Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, then add the other ingredients and filter clear. It is better to make this cordial during the cherry season so as to obtain the fresh expressed juice of the cherry.

«Curacoa Cordials.»—

I.—Curacoa orange peel 6 ounces
Cinnamon 3/4 ounce
Mace 2 1/2 drachms
Alcohol 3 1/2 pints
Water 4 1/2 pints
Sugar 12 ounces

Mix the first three ingredients and reduce them to a coarse powder, then mix with the alcohol and 4 pints of water and macerate for 8 days with an occasional agitation, express, add the sugar and enough water to make a gallon of finished product. Filter clear.

II.—Curacoa or bitter orange peel 2 ounces
Cloves 80 grains
Cinnamon 80 grains
Cochineal 60 grains
Oil of orange (best) 1 drachm
Orange-flower water 1/2 pint
Holland gin 1 pint
Alcohol 2 pints
Sugar 3 pints
Water, q. s. 1 gallon

Reduce the solids to a coarse powder, add the alcohol and macerate 3 days. Then add the oil, gin, and 3 pints of water and continue the maceration for 8 days more, agitating once a day, strain and add sugar dissolved in balance of the water. Then add the orange-flower water and filter.

«Kola Cordial.»—

Kola nuts, roasted and powdered 7 ounces Cochineal powder 30 grains Extract of vanilla 3 drachms Arrac 3 ounces Sugar 7 pounds Alcohol 6 pints Water, distilled 6 pints

Macerate kola and cochineal with alcohol for 10 days, agitate daily, add arrac, vanilla, and sugar dissolved in water. Filter.

«Kümmel Cordials.»—

I.—Oil of caraway 30 drops
Oil of peppermint 3 drops
Oil of lemon 3 drops
Acetic ether 30 drops
Spirit of nitrous ether 30 drops
Sugar 72 ounces
Alcohol 96 ounces
Water 96 ounces

Dissolve the oils and ethers in the alcohol, and the sugar in the water. Mix and filter.

II.—Oil of caraway 20 drops
Oil of sweet fennel 2 drops
Oil of cinnamon 1 drop
Sugar 14 ounces
Alcohol 2 pints
Water 4 pints

Prepare as in Formula I.

«Orange Cordials.»—Many of the preparations sold under this name are not really orange cordials, but are varying mixtures of uncertain composition, possibly flavored with orange. The following are made by the use of oranges:

I.—Sugar 8 avoirdupois pounds
Water 2 3/4 gallons
Oranges 15

Dissolve the sugar in the water by the aid of a gentle heat, express the oranges, add the juice and rinds to the syrup, put the mixture into a cask, keep the whole in a warm place for 3 or 4 days, stirring frequently, then close the cask, set aside in a cool cellar and draw off the clear liquid.

II.—Express the juice from sweet oranges, add water equal to the volume {765} of juice obtained, and macerate the expressed oranges with the juice and water for about 12 hours. For each gallon of juice, add 1 pound of granulated sugar, grape sugar, or glucose, put the whole into a suitable vessel, covering to exclude the dust, place in a warm location until fermentation is completed, draw off the clear liquid, and preserve in well-stoppered stout bottles in a cool place.

III.—Orange wine suitable for “soda” purposes may be prepared by mixing 3 fluidounces of orange essence with 13 fluidounces of sweet Catawba or other mild wine. Some syrup may be added to this if desired.

«Rose Cordial.»—

Oil of rose, very best 3 drops Palmarosa oil 3 drops Sugar 28 ounces Alcohol 52 ounces Distilled water, q. s. 8 pints

Dissolve the sugar in the water and the oils in the alcohol; mix the solutions, color a rose tint, and filter clear.

«Spearmint Cordial.»—

Oil of spearmint 30 drops Sugar 28 ounces Alcohol 52 ounces Distilled water, q. s. 8 pints

Dissolve the sugar in the water and the oil in the alcohol; mix the two solutions, color green, and filter clear.

«Absinthe.»—

I.—Oil of wormwood 96 drops
Oil of star anise 72 drops
Oil of aniseed 48 drops
Oil of coriander 48 drops
Oil of fennel, pure 48 drops
Oil of angelica root 24 drops
Oil of thyme 24 drops
Alcohol (pure) 162 fluidounces
Distilled water 30 fluidounces

Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the water, color green, and filter clear.

II.—Oil of wormwood 36 drops
Oil of orange peel 30 drops
Oil of star anise 12 drops
Oil of neroli petate 5 drops
Fresh oil of lemon 9 drops
Acetic ether 24 drops
Sugar 30 avoirdupois ounces
Alcohol, deodorized 90 fluidounces
Distilled water 78 fluidounces

Dissolve the oils and ether in the alcohol and the sugar in the water; then mix thoroughly, color green, and filter clear.

«DETANNATING WINE.»

According to Caspari, the presence of appreciable quantities of tannin in wine is decidedly objectionable if the wine is to be used in connection with iron and other metallic salts; moreover, tannin is incompatible with alkaloids, and hence wine not deprived of its tannin should never be used as a menstruum for alkaloidal drugs. The process of freeing wines from tannin is termed detannation, and is a very simple operation. The easiest plan is to add 1/2 ounce of gelatin in number 40 or number 60 powder to 1 gallon of the wine, to agitate occasionally during 24 or 48 hours, and then to filter. The operation is preferably carried out during cold weather or in a cold apartment, as heat will cause the gelatin to dissolve, and the maceration must be continued until a small portion of the wine mixed with a few drops of ferric chloride solution shows no darkening of color. Gelatin in large pieces is not suitable, especially with wines containing much tannin, since the newly formed tannate of gelatin will be deposited on the surface and prevent further intimate contact of the gelatin with the wine. Formerly freshly prepared ferric hydroxide was much employed for detannating wine, but the chief objection to its use was due to the fact that some iron invariably was taken up by the acid present in the wine; moreover, the process was more tedious than in the case of gelatin. As the removal of tannin from wine in no way interferes with its quality—alcoholic strength and aroma remaining the same, and only coloring matter being lost—a supply of detannated wine should be kept on hand, for it requires very little more labor to detannate a gallon than a pint.

If ferric hydroxide is to be used, it must be freshly prepared, and a convenient quantity then be added to the wine—about 8 ounces of the expressed, but moist, precipitate to a gallon.

«PREVENTION OF FERMENTATION.»

Fermentation may be prevented in either of two ways:

(1) By chemical methods, which consist in the addition of germ poisons or antiseptics, which either kill the germs or prevent their growth. Of these the principal ones used are salicylic, sulphurous, boracic, and benzoic acids, formalin, fluorides, and saccharine. As these substances are generally regarded as adulterants and injurious, their use is not recommended.

(2) The germs are either removed by {766} some mechanical means such as a filtering or a centrifugal apparatus, or they are destroyed by heat or electricity. Heat has so far been found the most practical.

When a liquid is heated to a sufficiently high temperature all organisms in it are killed. The degree of heat required, however, differs not only with the particular kind of organism, but also with the liquid in which it is held. Time is also a factor. An organism may not be killed if heated to a high temperature and quickly cooled. If, however, the temperature is kept at the same high degree for some time, it will be killed. It must also be borne in mind that fungi, including yeasts, exist in the growing and the resting states, the latter being much more resistant than the former. One characteristic of the fungi and their spores is their great resistance to heat when dry. In this state they can be heated to 212° F. without being killed. The spores of the common mold are even more resistant. This should be well considered in sterilizing bottles and corks, which should be steamed to 240° F. for at least 15 minutes.

Practical tests so far made indicate that grape juice can be safely sterilized at from 165° to 176° F. At this temperature the flavor is hardly changed, while at a temperature much above 200° F. it is. This is an important point, as the flavor and quality of the product depend on it.

Use only clean, sound, well-ripened, but not over-ripe grapes. If an ordinary cider mill is at hand, it may be used for crushing and pressing, or the grapes may be crushed and pressed with the hands. If a light-colored juice is desired, put the crushed grapes in a cleanly washed cloth sack and tie up. Then either hang up securely and twist it or let two persons take hold, one on each end of the sack and twist until the greater part of the juice is expressed. Next gradually heat the juice in a double boiler or a large stone jar in a pan of hot water, so that the juice does not come in direct contact with the fire at a temperature of 180° to 200° F., never above 200° F. It is best to use a thermometer, but if there be none at hand heat the juice until it steams, but do not allow it to boil. Put it in a glass or enameled vessel to settle for 24 hours; carefully drain the juice from the sediment, and run it through several thicknesses of clean flannel, or a conic filter made from woolen cloth or felt may be used. This filter is fixed to a hoop of iron, which can be suspended wherever necessary. After this fill into clean bottles. Do not fill entirely, but leave room for the liquid to expand when again heated. Fit a thin board over the bottom of an ordinary wash boiler, set the filled bottles (ordinary glass fruit jars are just as good) in it, fill in with water around the bottles to within about an inch of the tops, and gradually heat until it is about to simmer. Then take the bottles out and cork or seal immediately. It is a good idea to take the further precaution of sealing the corks over with sealing wax or paraffine to prevent mold germs from entering through the corks. Should it be desired to make red juice, heat the crushed grapes to not above 200° F., strain through a clean cloth or drip bag (no pressure should be used), set away to cool and settle, and proceed the same as with light-colored juice. Many people do not even go to the trouble of letting the juice settle after straining it, but reheat and seal it up immediately, simply setting the vessel away in a cool place in an upright position where they will be undisturbed. The juice is thus allowed to settle, and when wanted for use the clear juice is simply taken off the sediment. Any person familiar with the process of canning fruit can also preserve grape juice, for the principles involved are identical.

One of the leading defects so far found in unfermented juice is that much of it is not clear, a condition which very much detracts from its otherwise attractive appearance, and due to two causes already alluded to. Either the final sterilization in bottles has been at a higher temperature than the preceding one, or the juice has not been properly filtered or has not been filtered at all. In other cases the juice has been sterilized at such a high temperature that it has a disagreeable scorched taste. It should be remembered that attempts to sterilize at a temperature above 195° F. are dangerous so far as the flavor of the finished product is concerned.

Another serious mistake is sometimes made by putting the juice into bottles so large that much of it becomes spoiled before it is used after the bottles are opened. Unfermented grape juice properly made and bottled will keep indefinitely, if it is not exposed to the atmosphere or mold germs; but when a bottle is once opened it should, like canned goods, be used as soon as possible to keep from spoiling.

Another method of making unfermented grape juice, which is often {767} resorted to where a sufficiently large quantity is made at one time, consists in this:

Take a clean keg or barrel (one that has previously been made sweet). Lay this upon a skid consisting of two scantlings or pieces of timber of perhaps 20 feet long, in such a manner as to make a runway. Then take a sulphur match, made by dipping strips of clean muslin about 1 inch wide and 10 inches long into melted brimstone, cool it and attach it to a piece of wire fastened in the lower end of a bung and bent over at the end, so as to form a hook. Light the match and by means of the wire suspend it in the barrel, bung the barrel up tight, and allow it to burn as long as it will. Repeat this until fresh sulphur matches will no longer burn in the barrel.

Then take enough fresh grape juice to fill the barrel one-third full, bung up tight, roll and agitate violently on the skid for a few minutes. Next burn more sulphur matches in it until no more will burn, fill in more juice until the barrel is about two-thirds full; agitate and roll again. Repeat the burning process as before, after which fill the barrel completely with grape juice and roll. The barrel should then be bunged tightly and stored in a cool place with the bung up, and so secured that the package cannot be shaken. In the course of a few weeks the juice will have become clear and can then be racked off and filled into bottles or jars direct, sterilized, and corked or sealed up ready for use. By this method, however, unless skillfully handled, the juice is apt to have a slight taste of the sulphur.

The following are the component parts of a California and a Concord unfermented grape juice:

Concord California
Per Per
Cent Cent

Solid contents 20.37 20.60 Total acids (as tartaric) .663 .53 Volatile acids .023 .03 Grape sugar 18.54 19.15 Free tartaric acids .025 .07 Ash .255 .19 Phosphoric acids .027 .04 Cream of tartar .55 .59

This table is interesting in so far that the California unfermented grape juice was made from Viniferas or foreign varieties, whereas the Concord was a Labruska or one of the American sorts. The difference in taste and smell is even more pronounced than the analysis would indicate.

Small quantities of grape juice may be preserved in bottles. Fruit is likely to be dusty and to be soiled in other ways, and grapes, like other fruits, should be well washed before using. Leaves or other extraneous matter should also be removed. The juice is obtained by moderate pressure in an ordinary screw press, and strained through felt. By gently heating, the albuminous matter is coagulated and may be skimmed off, and further clarification may be effected by filtering through paper, but such filtration must be done as rapidly as possible, using a number of filters and excluding the air as much as possible.

The juice so obtained may be preserved by sterilization, in the following manner: Put the juice in the bottles in which it is to be kept, filling them very nearly full; place the bottles, unstoppered, in a kettle filled with cold water, so arranging them on a wooden perforated “false bottom” or other like contrivance as to prevent their immediate contact with the metal, this preventing unequal heating and possible fracture. Now heat the water, gradually raising the temperature to the boiling point, and maintain at that until the juice attains a boiling temperature; then close the bottles with perfectly fitting corks, which have been kept immersed in boiling water for a short time before use.

The corks should not be fastened in any way, for, if the sterilization is not complete, fermentation and consequent explosion of the bottle may occur unless the cork should be forced out.

If the juice is to be used for syrup, as for use at the soda fountain, the best method is to make a concentrated syrup at once, using about 2 pounds of refined sugar to 1 pint of juice, dissolving by a gentle heat. This syrup may be made by simple agitation without heat; and a finer flavor thus results, but its keeping quality would be uncertain.

The juices found in the market are frequently preserved by means of antiseptics, but so far none have been proposed for this purpose which can be considered entirely wholesome. Physiological experiments have shown that while bodies suited for this purpose may be apparently without bad effect at first, their repeated ingestion is likely to cause gastric disturbance.

«SPARKLING WINES.»

An apparatus for converting still into foaming wines, and doing this efficiently, simply, and rapidly, consists of a vertical steel tube, which turns on an axis, and {768} bears several adjustable glass globes that are in connection with each other by means of distributing valves, the latter being of silver-plated bronze. The glass globes serve as containers for carbonic acid, and are kept supplied with this gas from a cylinder connected therewith.

The wine to be impregnated with the acid is taken from a cask, through a special tube, which also produces a light pressure of carbonic acid on the cask, the object of which is to prevent the access of atmospheric air to the wine within, and, besides, to cause the liquid to pass into the bottle without jar or stroke. The bottles stand under the distributing valves, or levers, placed above and below them. Now, if the cock, by means of which the glass bulbs and the bottles are brought into connection, is slightly opened, and the desired lever is put in action, the carbonic acid at once forces the air out of the bottles, and sterilizes them. The upper bottles are now gradually filled. The whole apparatus, including the filled bottles, is now tilted over, and the wine, of its own weight, flows through collectors filled with carbonic acid, and passes, impregnated with the gas, into other bottles placed below. Each bottle is filled in course, the time required for each being some 45 seconds. The saturation of the liquid with carbonic acid is so complete and plentiful that there is no need of hurry in corking.

By means of this apparatus any desired still wine is at once converted into a sparkling one, preserving at the same time its own peculiarities of taste, bouquet, etc. The apparatus may be used equally well upon fruit juices, milk, and, in fact, any kind of liquid, its extreme simplicity permitting of easy and rapid cleansing.

«ARTIFICIAL FRENCH BRANDY.»

I.—The following is Eugene Dieterich’s formula for _Spiritus vini Gallici artificialis_:

Tincture of gallapples 10 parts Aromatic tincture 5 parts Purified wood vinegar 5 parts Spirit of nitrous ether 10 parts Acetic ether 1 part Alcohol, 68 per cent 570 parts Distilled water 400 parts

Mix, adding the water last, let stand for several days, then filter.

II.—The _Münchener Apotheker Verein_ has adopted the following formula for the same thing:

Acetic acid, dilute, 90 per cent 4 parts Acetic ether 4 parts Tincture aromatic 40 parts Cognac essence 40 parts Spirit of nitrous ether 20 parts Alcohol, 90 per cent 5,000 parts Water, distilled 2,500 parts

Add the acids, ethers, etc., to the alcohol, and finally add the water. Let stand several days, and, if necessary, filter.

III.—The Berlin Apothecaries have adopted the following as a magistral formula:

Aromatic tincture 4 parts Spirit of nitrous ether 5 parts Alcohol, 90 per cent 1,000 parts Distilled water, quantity sufficient to make 2,000 parts

Mix the tincture and ether with the alcohol, add the water and for every ounce add one drop of tincture of rhatany.

Of these formulas the first is to be preferred as a close imitation of the taste of the genuine article. To imitate the color use burnt sugar.

«LIQUEURS.»

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Henley's Twentieth Century Formulas, Recipes and ProcessesChapter I: II III IV V (1)

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