Chapter V: VI VII

Per Per Per
Cent Cent Cent

Shellac 17.5 — 18.0 Yellow acaroid gum 13.1 25.0 — Manila — 8.0 9.0 Alcohol 69.4 67.0 63.0

{727}

«Gold Varnish.»—I.—A good gold varnish for coating moldings which produces great brilliancy is prepared as follows: Dissolve 3 pounds of shellac in 30 quarts of alcohol, 5 pounds of mastic in 5 quarts of alcohol, 3 pounds of sandarac in 5 quarts of alcohol, 5 pounds of gamboge in 5 quarts of alcohol, 1 pound of dragon’s blood in 1 quart of alcohol, 3 pounds of saunders in 5 quarts of alcohol, 3 pounds of turpentine in 3 quarts of alcohol. After all the ingredients have been dissolved separately in the given quantity of absolute alcohol and filtered, the solutions are mixed at a moderate heat.

II.—A varnish which will give a splendid luster, and any gold color from deep red to golden yellow, is prepared by taking 50 ounces pale shellac, 15 pounds Florentine lake (precipitated from cochineal or redwood decoction by alum onto strach, kaolin, or gypsum), 25 ounces of sandalwood, and 8 ounces of dragon’s blood. These in fine powder are dissolved on the water bath, in 500 ounces rectified spirit. The spirit must boil and remain, with occasional shaking, for 2 to 3 hours on the bath. Then cool and decant. In the meantime heat in another flask on the bath 30 ounces of gamboge in 500 ounces of the same spirit. The two liquids are mixed until the right color needed for the particular purpose in hand is obtained. Dilute with spirit if too thick. The addition of a little picric acid gives a greenish-yellow bronze but makes the varnish very liable to explode. These varnishes are applied to gently warmed surfaces with a soft bristle brush.

«Gold Varnish for Tin.»—This is obtained in the following manner: Spread out 5 parts, by weight, of finely powdered crystallized copper acetate in a warm spot, allowing it to lie for some time; then grind the powder, which will have acquired a light-brown shade, with oil of turpentine and add, with stirring, 15 parts, by weight, of fat copal varnish heated to 140° F. When the copper acetate has dissolved (in about 1/4 hour), the mass is filled in a bottle and allowed to stand warm, for several days, shaking frequently. The gold varnish is then ready for use. Coat the articles uniformly with it, and heat in a drying chamber, whereupon, according to the degree of temperature, varying colorations are obtained, changing from green to yellow, then golden yellow, and finally orange to brown. When good copal varnish is employed, the varnish will adhere very firmly, so that the article can be pressed without damage.

«Iron Varnishes.»—I.—A varnish obtained by dissolving wax in turpentine is useful. It gives a fairly hard coat, but has the drawback of filling up fine grooves, and so injuring the appearance of many metal ornaments.

II.—Shellac, 15 pounds; Siam benjamin, 13 pounds; alcohol, 80 pounds; formylchloride, 20 pounds.

III.—Sierra Leone copal, 6 pounds; dammar, 18 pounds; oleic acid, 3 pounds; alcohol, 40 pounds; oil of turpentine, 20 pounds; formylchloride, 15 pounds. The formylchloride not only effects the rapid drying necessary to prevent the varnish gravitating into hollows, but enables the alcohol to make a perfect solution of the rosin. The varnishes are excessively volatile, and must be stored accordingly.

«Stove Varnishes.»—

Shellac 12 parts Manila copal 14 parts Rosin 12 parts Gallipot 2 parts Benzoin 1 part Lampblack 5 parts Nigrosin, spirit-soluble 1 1/2 parts Alcohol 250 parts

«Tin Varnishes.»—I.—For Tin Boxes.—

In 75 parts of alcohol dissolve 15 parts of shellac, 2 parts of Venice turpentine, and 8 parts of sandarac.

II.—For Trays and Other Tinware.—The ground is prepared by adding to the white lead the tinting colors ground in good rubbing varnish and half oil of turpentine. For drier an admixture of “terebine” is recommended. With this lean and dull paint, coat the tins 2 or 3 times and blend. Next, grain with water or vinegar glaze, and varnish with pure Zanzibar copal varnish, or finest amber table-top varnish. There are other tried methods for varnishing tin, which are applicable for new goods, manufactured in large quantities, while they are less advantageous for the restoration of old, repeatedly used articles.

«VARNISH SUBSTITUTES.»

A substitute for varnish is produced by adding to 100 parts of casein 10 to 25 parts of a 1 to 10 per cent soap solution and then 20 to 25 parts of slaked lime. The mixture is carefully kneaded until a perfectly homogeneous mass results. Then gradually add 25 to 40 parts of turpentine oil and sufficient {728} water for the mass to assume the consistency of varnish. If it is desired to preserve it for some time a little ammonia is added so that the casein lime does not separate. The surrogate is considerably cheaper than varnish and dries so quickly that paint ground with it may be applied twice in quick succession.

«Zapon Varnishes.»—In the case of many articles which have been colored mechanically or by the battery, particularly with large pieces, an opaque varnish is used as a protection against atmospheric influences. The so-called brassoline, of a brown color, negroline, black, and zapon which is colorless, are employed, according to the color of the article. The last-named varnish is most commonly used, and gives a fine and durable coating, insoluble in almost all liquids which would come into consideration here, except that it will wash off in soap and water. Zapon varnish is a solution of collodion cotton and camphor in amyl acetate and amyl alcohol, and was formerly used to preserve old manuscripts and legal documents. In the process of zaponizing, the article is slightly warmed and immersed in the varnish, or the latter is applied with a brush. The solution is very durable, and has the advantage that after drying it will not show edges, rings, or spots. Zapon varnish which has become too thick must be diluted, and the brushes must be kept from becoming dry. If it is desired to give an especially warm tone, the article is treated with brushes which have been drawn over beeswax or mineral wax.

For the production of zapon or celluloid varnish, pour 20 parts of acetone over 2 parts of colorless celluloid waste, allowing it to stand for several days in a closed vessel, stirring frequently until the whole has dissolved into a clear, thick mass. Admix 78 parts of amyl acetate and clarify the zapon varnish by allowing it to settle for weeks.

VARNISH, HOW TO POUR OUT: See Castor Oil.

VARNISHES, INSULATING: See Insulation.

VARNISHES, PHOTOGRAPHIC RETOUCHING: See Photography.

VARNISH REMOVERS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

VASELINE STAINS, TO REMOVE FROM CLOTHING: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

«VASOLIMENTUM.»

This unguent is of two kinds, liquid and semi-solid. The former is prepared by mixing 500 parts of olein, 250 parts of alcoholic ammonia, and 1,000 parts of liquid paraffine, the whole being warmed until completely dissolved, and any loss in weight made up by addition of spirit. The semi-solid preparation is made of the same ingredients, except the paraffine salve is substituted for the liquid. The product is used as a basis for ointments in place of vasogene, and can be incorporated with a number of medicaments, such as 10 per cent of naphthol, 20 per cent of guaiacol, 25 per cent of juniper tar, 5 per cent of thiol, 6 per cent of iodine, 5 per cent of creosote, 10 per cent of ichthyol, 5 per cent of creolin, 2 per cent of menthol, etc.

VAT ENAMELS AND VARNISHES: See Varnishes.

VEGETABLES, TESTS FOR CANNED: See Foods.

VEGETABLE PARCHMENT: See Parchment.

VICHY: See Waters.

VICHY SALT: See Salts (Effervescent).

«Veterinary Formulas»

«FOR BIRDS:»

«Asthma in Canaries.»—

Tincture capsicum 5 drachms Spirits chloroform 90 minims Iron citrate, soluble 45 grains Fennel water 3 1/2 ounces

Give a few drops on lump of sugar in the cage once daily.

«Colas.»—

Tincture ferri perchloride 1 drachm Acid hydrochloric, dil. 1/2 drachm Glycerine 1 1/2 drachms Aqua camphor, q. s. 1 ounce

Use 3 to 6 drops in drinking water.

«Ointment for Healing.»—

Peru balsam 60 grains Cola cream 1 ounce

Apply. {729}

«Constipation in Birds.»—

F. E. senna 2 drachms Syrup manna 1 ounce Fennel water, q. s. 4 ounces

Give a few drops on sugar in cage once daily.

«Diarrhœa.»—

Tincture iron chloride 2 drachms Paregoric 2 drachms Caraway water 3 1/2 ounces

Give few drops on lump of sugar once daily.

«Mocking-Bird Food.»—

Crackers 8 ounces Corn 9 ounces Rice 2 ounces Hemp seed 1 ounce Capsicum 10 grains

Mix and reduce to a coarse powder.

«Foods for Red Birds.»—

Sunflower seed 8 ounces Hemp seed 16 ounces Canary seed 10 ounces Cracked wheat 8 ounces Unshelled rice 6 ounces

Mix and grind to a coarse powder.

«Canary-Bird Food.»—

Yolk of egg (dry) 2 ounces Poppy heads (powdered) 1 ounce Cuttlefish bone (powdered) 1 ounce Sugar 2 ounces Powdered crackers 8 ounces

«Bird Tonic.»—

Powdered capsicum 20 grains Powdered gentian 1 drachm Ferri peroxide 1/2 ounce Powdered sugar 1/2 ounce Syrup, q. s.

Put a piece size of pea in cage daily.

«Tonic.»—

I.—Tincture cinchona 1/2 drachm
Tincture iron 2 drops
Glycerine 1 drachm
Caraway water 1 ounce

Put a few drops on lump of sugar in cage daily.

II.—Compound tincture cinchona 2 drachms
Compound tincture gentian 2 drachms
Syrup orange 1 ounce
Simple elixir 2 1/2 ounces

Put a few drops on lump of sugar in the cage daily.

«Antiseptic Wash for Cage Birds.»—

Chinosol, F. 2 drachms Sugar (burnt) 20 minims Aqua cinnamon 4 ounces Aqua 20 ounces

Add 1 or 2 teaspoonfuls to the bath water and allow the birds to use it, when it will quickly destroy all parasites or germs in the feathers. To wash out the cages, use a mixture of 1 tablespoonful in a pint of hot water.

«Mixed Bird Seed.»—

Sicily canary 10 ounces German rape 2 ounces Russian hemp 1 ounce German millet 3 ounces

«FOR HORSES AND CATTLE:»

«Blistering.»—Tincture cantharides, 1 ounce; camphorated oil, 1/2 ounce. Apply a portion with friction 3 times a day until a blister shows. As it subsides apply again.

«Horse-Colic Remedy.»—I.—In making a horse-colic remedy containing tincture of opium, ether and chloroform, to be given in tablespoonful doses, apportion the ingredients about equally, and mix the dose with a pint of water.

Other formulas are:

II.—Chloroform anodyne 1 ounce
Spirit of nitrous ether 2 ounces
Linseed oil 13 ounces

Give in one dose and repeat in an hour if necessary.

«Condition Powders.»—I.—Sulphur, 2 pounds; Glauber salts, 1 pound; black antimony, 1/2 pound; powdered bloodroot, 4 ounces; copperas, 1/2 pound; rosin, 1/2 pound; asafetida, 2 ounces; saltpeter 1/2 pound. Powder and mix well.

II.—Gentian, 4 ounces; potassium nitrate, 1 ounce; sulphur, 4 ounces; ginger (African), 4 ounces; antimony, 4 ounces; rosin, 2 ounces; Fœnugreek, 2 ounces; capsicum, 2 ounces; serpentaria, 2 ounces; sodium sulphate, 9 ounces; flaxseed meal, 16 ounces. All ingredients in fine powder. Dose: 1 tablespoonful in feed twice a day.

«Veterinary Dose Table.»—For a colt 1 month old give 1/24 of the full dose; 3 months old, 1/12; 6 months old,1/6; 1 year old, 1/3; 2 years old, 1/2; 3 years old, 3/4. Fluids for cattle usually the same dose as for the horse. Solids for cattle usually 1 1/2 times the dose for the horse. {730}

──────────────────────────+────────────────────+────────────────────+ Drug. │ Horses. │ Cattle. │ ──────────────────────────+────────────────────+────────────────────+ Aloes │ 1 to 8 dr. │ 1/2 to 2 oz. │ Alum │ 1 to 3 dr. │ 1 to 3 dr. │ Aqua ammonia │ 3 to 5 dr. │ 3 to 5 dr. │ Ammonia bromide │ 1/4 to 2 oz. │ 1/4 to 2 oz. │ Ammonia carbonate │ 1 to 3 dr. │ 2 to 5 dr. │ Ammonia iodide │ 1/2 to 3 dr. │ 1 to 5 dr. │ Antimony black │ 15 to 50 gr. │ —— —— │ Areca nut │ 3 to 5 dr. │ —— —— │ Arsenic │ 5 to 12 gr. │ 5 to 12 gr. │ Asafetida │ 1 to 4 dr. │ 1/2 to 2 oz. │ Belladonna leaves │ 1/2 to 2 oz. │ 1/2 to 2 oz. │ Buchu leaves │ 1/2 to 3 oz. │ 1/2 to 4 oz. │ Calaber bean │ 4 to 12 gr. │ 4 to 12 gr. │ Camphor │ 1/2 to 2 dr. │ 2 to 3 dr. │ Cantharides │ 5 to 25 gr. │ 12 to 30 gr. │ Capsicum │ 1 to 2 dr. │ 1 to 3 dr. │ Catechu │ 1 to 2 dr. │ 2 to 4 dr. │ Chalk preparation │ 2 to 3 oz. │ 2 to 4 oz. │ Chloral hydrate │ 1/2 to 1 1/2 oz. │ 1/2 to 1 1/2 oz. │ Chloroform │ 1/2 to 1 dr. │ 1/2 to 2 dr. │ Cinchona │ 1 to 3 dr. │ 1/2 to 2 oz. │ Copper sulphate │ 1/2 to 2 dr. │ 1/2 to 3 dr. │ Creolin │ 1 to 5 dr. │ 2 to 5 dr. │ Creosote │ 15 to 30 min. │ 1 to 2 dr. │ Digitalis leaves │ 10 to 20 gr. │ 20 to 50 gr. │ Dover powder │ 1/2 to 2 dr. │ 1/2 to 2 dr. │ Ergot │ 1/4 to 1 oz. │ 1/4 to 1 oz. │ Ether │ 1/2 to 2 1/2 oz. │ 1 to 3 oz. │ Ex. belladonna fluid │ 1/2 to 2 dr. │ 2 to 4 dr. │ Extract buchu fluid │ 1 to 5 dr. │ —— —— │ Extract cannabis indica │ 1/4 to 1/2 dr. │ 1/4 to 1 dr. │ Fœnugreek │ 1/2 to 3 oz. │ 1 to 3 oz. │ Gallnuts │ 2 to 4 dr. │ 1/2 to 1 oz. │ Gentian │ 2 to 6 dr. │ 1/2 to 1 oz. │ Ginger │ 3 to 5 dr. │ 1/2 to 2 oz. │ Ipecac │ 1/2 to 2 dr. │ 1/2 to 3 dr. │ Iron carbonate │ 1 to 2 dr. │ —— —— │ Iron sulphate │ 1/2 to 2 dr. │ 1 to 3 dr. │ Juniper berries │ 1 to 2 oz. │ 1 to 3 oz. │ Limewater │ 3 to 6 oz. │ 3 to 6 oz. │ Magnesia sulphate │ 1/2 to 3 lb. │ 1/2 to 3 lb. │ Mustard │ 2 to 4 dr. │ 2 to 6 dr. │ Nux vomica │ 1/2 to 1 dr. │ 2 to 3 dr. │ Oil castor │ 1/2 to 1 pt. │ 1/2 to 1 pt. │ Oil Croton │ 10 to 20 min. │ 1 to 2 dr. │ Oil juniper │ 1/2 to 2 dr. │ 1/2 to 2 dr. │ Oil linseed │ 1/2 to 1 pt. │ 1/2 to 2 pt. │ Oil olive │ 1/2 to 2 pt. │ 1 to 2 pt. │ Oil savin │ 1 to 3 dr. │ 1 to 3 dr. │ Oil turpentine │ 1/2 to 2 oz. │ 1/2 to 2 oz. │ Opium │ 1/2 to 2 dr. │ 1/2 to 2 dr. │ Potassium iodide │ 2 to 4 dr. │ 2 to 6 dr. │ Potassium nitrate │ 1 to 2 oz. │ 1 to 2 oz. │ Potassium sulphide │ 1 to 2 dr. │ 1 to 2 dr. │ Quinine │ 10 to 30 gr. │ 20 to 40 gr. │ Rhubarb │ 1/2 to 1 oz. │ 1 to 2 oz. │ Santonine │ 15 to 40 gr. │ 1/2 to 1 dr. │ Sodium hyposulphite │ 1/2 to 1 oz. │ 1 to 3 oz. │ Sodium sulphate │ 1/2 to 2 lb. │ 1 to 2 lb. │ Sodium sulphite │ 1/2 to 1 oz. │ 1 to 3 oz. │ Spirits ammonia, aromatic │ 1/2 to 2 oz. │ 1 to 3 oz. │ Spirits chloroform │ 1/2 to 1 oz. │ 1 to 2 oz. │ Spirits nitrous ether │ 1 to 3 oz. │ 1 to 3 oz. │ Spirits peppermint │ 1 to 2 oz. │ 1 to 2 oz. │ Strychnine sulphite │ 1/2 to 1 gr. │ 1 to 3 gr. │ Sulphur │ 2 to 4 oz. │ 2 to 4 oz. │ Tincture aconite │ 5 to 30 min. │ 5 to 20 min. │ Tincture asafetida │ 1 to 4 dr. │ —— —— │ Tincture belladonna │ 1 to 3 dr. │ 2 to 4 dr. │ Tincture cantharides │ 1 to 2 oz. │ 1/2 to 1 oz. │ Tincture columbo │ 1/2 to 2 oz. │ 1 to 2 oz. │ Tincture digitalis │ 1 to 3 dr. │ 2 to 4 dr. │ Tincture iron │ 1 to 2 oz. │ 1 to 2 oz. │ Tincture ginger │ 1/2 to 2 oz. │ 1 to 2 oz. │ Tincture nux vomica │ 2 to 4 dr. │ 1/2 to 1 oz. │ Tincture opium │ 1/2 to 3 oz. │ 1 to 3 oz. │ Tobacco │ 1/2 to 1 dr. │ 1/2 to 1 dr. │ Vinegar │ 1 to 3 oz. │ 2 to 6 oz. │ Whisky │ 2 to 10 oz. │ —— —— │ White vitriol │ 5 to 15 gr. │ 5 to 15 gr. │ ──────────────────────────+────────────────────+────────────────────+

«Astringent.»—

I.—Opium 12 grains
Camphor 1/2 drachm
Catechu 1 drachm
One dose.

II.—Opium 12 grains
Camphor 1 drachm
Ginger 2 drachms
Castile soap 2 drachms
Anise 3 drachms
Licorice 2 drachms

«Contracted Hoof or Sore Feet.»—

I.—Lard 1 part
Yellow wax 1 part
Linseed oil 1 part
Venice turpentine 1 part
Tar 1 part

Apply to the edge of the hair once a day.

II.—Rosin 4 ounces
Lard 8 ounces
Melt and add Powdered vertigris 1 ounce
Stir well; when partly cool add Turpentine 2 ounces

Apply to hoof about 1 inch down from the hair.

«Cough.»—

I.—Sodii bromide 180 grains
Creosote water 2 ounces
Fennel water 4 ounces

Half tablespoonful 4 times daily.

II.—Ammonia bromide 180 grains
Fennel water 4 ounces
Syrup licorice 4 ounces

Teaspoonful 4 times daily.

«Cow Powder.»—

Powdered catechu 60 grains Powdered ginger 240 grains Powdered gentian 240 grains Powdered opium 30 grains

«CUTS, WOUNDS, SORES.»

I.—Tincture opium, 2 ounces; tannin, 1/4 ounce.

II.—Tincture aloes, 1 ounce; tincture of myrrh, 1/2 ounce; tincture of opium, 1/2 ounce; water, 4 ounces. Apply night and morning.

III.—Lard, 4 ounces; beeswax, 4 ounces; rosin, 2 ounces; carbolic acid, 1/4 ounce.

«Diarrhœa.»—

I.—Opium 15 grains
Peppermint 1/4 ounce
Linseed meal 1 ounce

Give half in morning and remainder in evening in a pint of warm water. {731}

II.—Prepared chalk 6 ounces
Catechu 3 ounces
Opium 1 1/2 ounces
Ginger 3 ounces
Gentian 3 ounces

One powder 3 times a day in half a pint of warm water. One-sixth of dose for calves.

«Diuretic Ball.»—

I.—Oil juniper 1/2 drachm
Rosin 2 drachms
Saltpeter 2 drachms
Camphor 1/2 drachm
Castile soap 1 ounce
Flaxseed meal 1 ounce
Make 1 pill.

II.—Rosin 90 grains
Potassium nitrate 90 grains
Po buchu leaves 45 grains
Dose: 1 twice a day.

«Drying Drink.»—

Powdered alum 6 ounces Armenian bole 2 ounces Powdered juniper berries 1/2 ounce

Once daily in 1 quart of warm gruel.

«Epizooty or Pinkeye.»—

Sublimed sulphur 1/2 ounce Epsom salt 1 ounce Charcoal 1/2 ounce Extract licorice 1 ounce

«Fever.»—

I.—Salicylic acid 3/4 ounce
Sodium bicarbonate 1/2 ounce
Magnesium sulphate 10 ounces

Give half in quart of warm bran water at night.

II.—Spirits niter 3 ounces
Tincture aconite 2 drachms
Fluid extract belladonna 1/2 ounce
Nitrate potash 2 ounces
Muriate ammonia 2 ounces
Water, q.s 1 quart

Dose: Teaspoonful every 2 or 3 hours till better.

«Heaves.»—I.—Balsam copaiba, 1 ounce; spirits of turpentine, 2 ounces; balsam fir, 1 ounce; cider vinegar, 16 ounces.

Tablespoonful once a day.

II.—Saltpeter, 1 ounce; indigo, 1/2 ounce; rain or distilled water, 4 pints.

Dose: 1 pint twice a day.

«Hide Bound.»—

Elecampane 2 ounces Licorice root 2 ounces Fœnugreek 2 ounces Rosin 2 ounces Copperas 1/2 ounce Ginger 2 drachms Gentian 1 drachm Saltpeter 1 drachm Valerian 1 drachm Linseed meal 3 ounces Sublimed sulphur 1 ounce Black antimony 4 drachms

Tablespoonful twice a day.

«HORSE EMBROCATIONS AND LINIMENTS.»

I.—Camphor 1 ounce
Acetic acid 15 ounces
Alcohol 18 ounces
Oil turpentine 51 ounces
Eggs 6
Distilled witch hazel 45 ounces

II.—Iodine 50 grains
Pot iodide 125 grains
Soap liniment 6 ounces

«INFLUENZA.»

I.—Ammonia muriate 1 1/2 ounces
Gum camphor 1/2 ounce
Pot chloride 1 ounce
Extract licorice, powdered 2 ounces
Molasses, q.s.

Make a mass. Dose: Tablespoonful in form of pill night and morning.

II.—Ammonium chloride 30 parts
Potassium nitrate 30 parts
Potassium sulphate in little crystals 100 parts
Licorice powder 65 parts

Mix. Dose: A tablespoonful, in a warm mash, 3 times daily.

«INFLAMMATION OF THE UDDER.»

I.—Salicylic acid 40 grains
Mercurial ointment 1 ounce
Liniment of camphor 3 1/4 ounces

Apply and rub the udder carefully twice a day.

II.—Belladonna root 1 drachm
Oil turpentine 1 ounce
Camphor 1 drachm
Solution green soap, q.s. 6 ounces

Mix and make a liniment. Bathe the udder several times with hot water. Dry and apply above liniment.

«MANGE.»

Sulphur is a specific for mange; the trouble consists in its application. The {732} old-fashioned lotion of train oil and black sulphur serves well enough, but for stabled animals something is wanted which will effectually destroy the parasites in harness and saddlery without injury to those expensive materials. The creosote emulsions and coal-tar derivatives generally are fatal to the sarcopts if brought into actual contact, but a harness pad with ridges of accumulated grease is a sufficient retreat for a few pregnant females during a perfunctory disinfection, and but a few days will be needed to reproduce a new and vigorous stock. A cheap and efficient application can be made by boiling together flowers of sulphur and calcis hydras in the proportion of 4 parts of the former to 1 of the latter, and 100 of water, for half an hour. It should be applied warm, or immediately after washing with soft soap.

«Milk Powder for Cows.»—For increasing the flow of milk, in cows, Hager recommends the following mixture:

Potassium nitrate 1 part Alum 1 part Sublimed sulphur 1 part Prepared chalk 1 part White bole 2 parts Red clover 5 parts Anise 10 parts Fennel 10 parts Salt 10 parts

All should be in tolerably fine powder and should be well mixed. The directions are to give 1 or 2 handfuls with the morning feed.

«LAXATIVES.»

I.—Aloes 1 drachm
Soap 12 drachms
Caraway 4 drachms
Ginger 4 drachms
Treacle, q.s.

Make 4 balls. Dose: 1 daily.

II.—Rochelle salts 2 ounces
Aloes, powdered 150 grains
Linseed meal 150 grains

One dose, given in warm water.

«Lice.»—

Crude oil 1 ounce Oil tar 1 ounce Oil cedar 1 drachm Cottonseed oil 5 ounces

Apply to parts.

«DOMESTIC PETS.»

The sarcoptic itch of the dog, as well as that of the cat, is transmissible to man.

The _Tinea tonsurans_, the so-called barbers’ itch, due to a trychophyton, and affecting both the dog and cat, is highly contagious to man. Favus, _Tinea favos_, caused by _achorion schoenleini_, of both animals, is readily transmissible to human beings. The dog carries in his intestines many kinds of _tœnia_ (tapeworm), among them _Tœnia echinococcus_, the eggs of which cause hydatic cysts. Hydatic cysts occur in persons who are always surrounded with dogs, or in constant contact with them.

Aviar diphtheria (i.e., the diphtheria of birds), caused by at least two microbes (bacillus of Klebs-Loeffler and bacillus coli), may easily be transmitted to man and cause in him symptoms analogous to those of true diphtheritic angina.

Parrots are subject to an infectious enteritis which may be communicated to human beings, giving rise to the so-called psittacosis (from the Greek, _psitta_, a parrot), of which there have been a number of epidemics in France. It is determined by the bacillus of Nocard.

Human tuberculosis is certainly transmitted to dogs, cats, and birds. Cadiot, Gibert, Roger, Benjamin, Petit, and Basset, as well as other observers, cite cases where dogs, cats, and parrots, presenting all the lesions of tuberculosis, were shown to have contracted it from contact with human beings; while there are no recorded cases, there can scarcely be a natural doubt that man may, in a similar manner, become attainted through them, and that their tuberculosis constitutes an actual danger to man.

Need we recall here the extraordinary facility with which hydrophobia is communicated to man through the dog, cat, etc.?

We may, therefore, conclude that we should not permit these animals to take up so much space in our apartments, nor should they be petted and caressed either by adults or children in the reckless manner common in many households. The disgusting habit of teaching animals to take bits of food, lumps of sugar, etc., from between the lips of members of the family is also to be shunned.

Finally, any or all of them should be banished from the house the moment that they display certain morbid symptoms. Besides, in certain cases, there should be a rigid prophylaxis against certain diseases—as echinococcus, for instance.

«Worms.»—In cats and dogs, round worms, of which ascaris mystax is the {733} most common in cats, are found chiefly in young animals. This worm has hirsute appendages somewhat resembling a mustache. To treat an animal infected with such “guests,” the patient should be made to fast for 24 hours. For a small kitten 1/2 grain of santonin, up to a grain or two for large cats, followed in an hour by a dose of castor oil, is recommended. To avoid spilling the oil on the animal’s coat the “doctor” should have it heated and whipped with warm milk. Another way to get cats to take it is to smear it on the bottoms of their front feet, when they will lick it off.

Areca nut, freshly ground by the druggist himself and administered in liberal doses, say 30 to 60 grains, will usually drive out any worms in the alimentary canal.

It is important that animals successfully treated for worms once should undergo the treatment a second or third time, as all the parasites may not have been killed or removed the first time, or their progeny may have developed in the field vacated by the parents.

The following is an effective formula:

German wormseed, powdered 1 drachm Fluid extract of spigelia 3 drachms Fluid extract of senna 1 drachm Fluid extract of valerian 1 drachm Syrup of buckthorn 2 ounces

Dose: From 1/2 to 1 teaspoonful night and morning.

«Foot Itch.»—The itch that affects the feet of poultry is contagious in a most insidious way. The various birds of a poultry yard in which the disease is prevalent, rarely contract it until after a comparatively long period of exposure, but sooner or later every bird will contract it. One infected bird is enough to infect a whole yard full, and once infected, it is exceedingly difficult to get rid of. The disease, however, affects birds only.

The treatment is simple. Having softened the feet by keeping them for some minutes in tepid water, the scabs that cover them are carefully detached, avoiding, as far as possible, causing them to bleed, and taking the precaution of throwing every scab into the fire. The feet are then carefully dried, with a bit of soft cotton material, which should afterwards be burned; then the entire surface is covered with ointment (_Unguentum sulphuris kalinum_). An alcoholic solution of Canada balsam is preferred by some. Protect the ointment by a proper appliance, and allow it to remain in contact 2 or 3 days. At the end of this time remove the applications and wash off with tepid suds. The bird will generally be found cured, but if not, repeat the treatment—removing the remaining scabs, which will be found soft enough without resorting to soaking in tepid water, and apply the ointment directly.

There is another method of treatment that has been found successful, which not only cures the infected birds but prevents the infection of others. It is simply providing a sand bath for the birds, under a little shed, where they can indulge themselves in rolling and scratching, the bath being composed of equal parts fine sand, charcoal in fine powder, ashes, and flowers of sulphur, sifted together. The bath should be renewed every week. In the course of a few weeks the cure is complete.

«Foods.»—

I.—Powdered egg shell or phosphate of lime 4 ounces
Iron sulphate 4 ounces
Powdered capsicum 4 ounces
Powdered Fœnugreek 2 ounces
Powdered black pepper 1 ounce
Silver sand 2 ounces
Powdered lentils 6 ounces

A tablespoonful to be mixed with sufficient feed for 20 hens.

II.—Oyster shell, ground 5 ounces
Magnesia 1 ounce
Calcium carbonate 3 ounces
Bone, ground 1 1/2 ounces
Mustard bran 1 1/2 ounces
Capsicum 1 ounce

«Powders.»—

I.—Cayenne pepper 2 parts
Allspice 4 parts
Ginger 6 parts

Powder and mix well together. A teaspoonful to be mixed with every pound of food, and fed 2 or 3 times a week. Also feed fresh meat, finely chopped.

II.—Powdered egg shells 4 parts
Powdered capsicum 4 parts
Sulphate of iron 4 parts
Powdered Fœnugreek 2 parts
Powdered black pepper 1 part
Sand 2 parts
Powdered dog biscuit 6 parts

A tablespoonful to be mixed with sufficient meal or porridge to feed 20 hens. {734}

«Lice Powders.»—

I.—Sulphur 4 ounces
Tobacco dust 6 ounces
Cedar oil 1/4 ounce
White hellebore 4 ounces
Crude naphthol 1 ounce
Powdered chalk, q.s. 2 pounds

II.—Sulphur 1 ounce
Carbolic acid 1/4 ounce
Crude naphthol 1 ounce
Powdered chalk 1 pound

«Roup or Gapes.»—Roup in poultry is caused by the presence of parasites or entozoa in the windpipe. Young birds are most commonly affected. The best method of treatment is to expose the affected bird to the fumes of heated carbolic acid until on the point of suffocation. The bird may be placed in a box with a hot brick, and carbolic acid placed thereon. The fowls soon recover from the incipient suffocation, and are almost always freed from the disease. Care must be taken to burn the parasites coughed out, and the bodies of any birds which may die of the disease. The following powders for the treatment of “roup” in poultry have been recommended:

I.—Potassium chlorate 1 ounce
Powdered cubebs 1 ounce
Powdered anise 1/2 ounce
Powdered licorice 1 1/2 ounces

Mix a teaspoonful with the food for 20 hens.

II.—Ammonium chloride 1 ounce
Black antimony 1/4 ounce
Powdered anise 1/2 ounce
Powdered squill 1/4 ounce
Powdered licorice 2 ounces

Mix and use in the foregoing.

«FOR SHEEP:»

«Dips.»—For the prevention of “scab” in sheep, which results from the burrowing of an acarus or the destruction of the parasite when present, various preparations of a somewhat similar character are used. The following formulas for sheep dips are recommended by the United States Department of Agriculture:

I.—Soap 1 pound
Crude carbolic acid 1 pint
Water 50 gallons

Dissolve the soap in a gallon or more of boiling water, add the acid, and stir thoroughly.

II.—Fresh skimmed milk 1 gallon
Kerosene 2 gallons

Churn together until emulsified, or mix and put into the mixture a force pump and direct the stream from the pump back into the mixture. The emulsification will take place more rapidly if the milk be added while boiling hot.

Use 1 gallon of this emulsion to each 10 gallons of water required.

«Constipation.»—

I.—Green soap 150 grains
Linseed oil 1 1/2 ounces
Water 15 ounces

Give 1/5 every 1/2 hour till action takes place.

II.—Calomel 1 1/2 grains
Sugar 15 grains

One dose.

«Loss of Appetite.»—

Sodium sulphate, dried 90 grains Sodium bicarbonate 30 grains Rhubarb 30 grains Calamus 90 grains

Form the mass into 6 pills. Give one twice daily.

«Inflammation of the Eyes.»—

Zinc sulphate 20 grains Mucilage quince seed 4 ounces Distilled water 4 ounces

Bathe eyes twice daily.

«Vinegar»

I.—Into a hogshead with a large bunghole put 1,500 parts, by weight, of honey, 125 parts of carob-pods, cut into pieces, 50 parts of powdered red or white potassium bitartrate, 125 parts of powdered tartaric acid, 2,000 parts of raisin stems, 400 parts of the best brewers’ yeast, or 500 of leaven rubbed up in water; add 16,000 parts of triple vinegar and 34,000 parts of 40 per cent spirit, containing no fusel oil. Stir all vigorously together; fill up the hogshead with hot water (100° F.), close the bunghole with gauze to keep out insects, and let the contents of the cask stand for from 4 to 6 weeks or until they have turned to vinegar. The temperature of the room should be from 77° to 88° F.

Draw off half the vinegar, and fill the hogshead up again with 15 parts of soft water and 1 part of spirit (40 per cent). Do this 4 times, then draw off all the vinegar and begin the first process over again. This method of making vinegar is suitable for households and small dealers, but would not suffice for {735} wholesale manufacturers, since it would take too long to produce any large amount.

II.—Put into an upright wine cask open at the top, 14,000 parts, by weight, of lukewarm water, 2,333 parts of 60 per cent alcohol, 500 parts of brown sugar, 125 parts of powdered red or white potassium bitartrate, 250 parts of good brewers’ yeast, or 125 parts of leaven, 1,125 parts of triple vinegar, and stir until the substances are dissolved. Lay a cloth and a perforated cover over the cask and let it stand in a temperature of 72° to 77° F. from 4 to 6 weeks; then draw off the vinegar. The thick deposit at the bottom, the “mother of vinegar,” so called, can be used in making more vinegar. Pour over it the same quantities of water and alcohol used at first; but after the vinegar has been drawn off twice, half the first quantity of sugar and potassium bitartrate, and the whole quantity of yeast, must be added. This makes excellent vinegar.

III.—A good strong vinegar for household use may be made from apple or pear peelings. Put the peelings in a stone jar (not glazed with lead) or in a cask, and pour over them water and a little vinegar, fermented beer, soured wine, or beet juice. Stir well, cover with a linen cloth and leave in a warm room. The vinegar will be ready in 2 or 3 weeks.

IV.—Two wooden casks of any desired size, with light covers, are provided. They may be called A and B. A is filled with vinegar, a tenth part of this is poured off into B, and an equal amount of fermented beer, wine, or any other sweet or vinous liquid, or a mixture of 1,125 parts, by weight, of alcohol, 11,500 to 14,000 parts of water, and 1,125 parts of beet juice, put into A.

When vinegar is needed, it is drawn out of B, an equal quantity is poured from A into B and the same quantity of vinegar-making liquids put into A. In this way vinegar is constantly being made and the process may go on for years, provided that the casks are large enough so that not more than a tenth of the contents of A is used in a week. If too much is used, so that the vinegar in the first cask becomes weak, the course of the vinegar making is disturbed for a long time, and this fact, whose importance has not been understood, prevents this method—in its essential principles the best—from being employed on a large scale. The surplus in A acts as a fermentative.

«Aromatic Vinegar.»—I.—Sixteen ounces glacial acetic acid, 40 drops oil of cloves, 40 drops oil of rosemary, 40 drops oil of bergamot, 16 drops oil of neroli, 30 drops oil of lavender, 1 drachm benzoic acid, 1/2 ounce camphor, 30 to 40 drops compound tincture of lavender, 3 ounces spirit of wine. Dissolve the oils, the benzoic acid, and the camphor in the spirit of wine, mix with acetic acid and shake until bright, lastly adding the tincture of lavender to color.

II.—Dried leaves of rosemary, rue, wormwood, sage, mint, and lavender flowers, each 1/2 ounce; bruised nutmegs, cloves, angelica root, and camphor, each 1/4 of an ounce; rectified alcohol, 4 ounces; concentrated acetic acid, 16 ounces. Macerate the materials for a day in the alcohol; then add the acid and digest for 1 week longer at a temperature of 490° F. Finally press out the now aromatised acid and filter it.

«Cider Vinegar.»—By “artificial vinegar” is meant vinegar made by the quick method with beechwood shavings. This cannot be carried out with any economy on a small scale, and requires a plant. A modification of the regular plan is as follows: Remove the head from a good tight whisky barrel, and put in a wooden faucet near the bottom. Fill the barrel with corn cobs and lay an empty coffee sack over them. Moisten the cobs by sprinkling them with some good, strong, natural vinegar, and let them soak for a few hours. After the lapse of 2 or 3 hours draw off the vinegar and again moisten the cobs, repeating this until they are rendered sour throughout, adding each time 1 quart of high wines to the vinegar before throwing it back on the cobs. This prevents the vinegar from becoming flat, by the absorption of its acetic acid by the cobs. Mix a gallon of molasses with a gallon of high wine and 14 gallons of water and pour it on the cobs. Soak for 8 hours, then draw off and pour on the cobs again. Repeat this twice daily, until the vinegar becomes sour enough to suit. By having a battery of barrels, say 4 barrels prepared as above, the manufacture may be made remunerative, especially if the residue of sugar casks in place of molasses, and the remnants of ale, etc., from the bar-rooms around town are used. All sugar-containing fruit may be utilized for vinegar making.

VINEGAR, TESTS FOR: See Foods.

VINEGAR, TOILET: See Cosmetics. {736}

VIOLET AMMONIA: See Cosmetics.

VIOLET WATER: See Perfumes.

VIOLIN ROSIN: See Rosin.

VIOLIN VARNISH: See Varnishes.

VISCOSE: See Celluloid.

VOICE LOZENGES: See Confectionery.

VULCANIZATION OF RUBBER: See Rubber.

WAGON GREASE: See Lubricants.

WALLS, DAMP: See Household Formulas.

WALL AND WALL-PAPER CLEANERS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods, also Household Formulas.

WALL-PAPER DYES: See Dyes.

WALL-PAPER PASTE: See Adhesives.

WALL PAPER, REMOVAL OF: See Household Formulas.

WALL WATERPROOFING: See Waterproofing and Household Formulas.

WALL PRIMING: See Paints.

WALNUT: See Wood.

WARMING BOTTLE: See Bottles.

WARPING, PREVENTION OF: See Wood.

«Warts»

Wart Cure.—The following is especially useful in cases where the warts are very numerous:

I.—Chloral hydrate 1 part
Acetic acid 1 part
Salicylic acid 4 parts
Sulphuric ether 4 parts
Collodion 5 parts

Mix. Directions: Every morning apply the foregoing to the warts, painting one coat on another. Should the mass fall off without taking the warts with it, repeat the operation. Take, internally 10 grains of burnt magnesia daily.

II.—Sulphur 10 parts
Acetic acid 5 parts
Glycerine 25 parts

Keep the warts covered with this mixture.

WASHING FLUIDS AND POWDERS: See Laundry Preparations.

WASTE, PHOTOGRAPHIC, ITS DISPOSITION: See Photography.

WATCH—DIAL CEMENTS: See Adhesives, under Jewelers’ Cements.

WATCH GILDING: See Plating.

«Watchmakers’ Formulas»

«WATCH MANUFACTURERS’ ALLOYS.»

Some very tenacious and hard alloys, for making the parts of watches which are not sensitive to magnetism, are as follows: