Chapter I: II III IV V VI (16)

I.—Salicylic acid 1 drachm
Talcum 6 ounces
Lycopodium 6 drachms
Starch 3 ounces
Zinc oxide 1 ounce
Perfume, quantity sufficient.

II.—Tannoform 1 drachm
Talcum 2 drachms
Lycopodium 30 grains

Use as a dusting powder.

«Solutions for Perspiring Feet.»—

I.—Balsam Peru 15 minims
Formic acid 1 drachm
Chloral hydrate 1 drachm
Alcohol to make 3 ounces.

Apply by means of absorbent cotton.

II.—Boric acid 15 grains
Sodium borate 6 drachms
Salicylic acid 6 drachms
Glycerine 1 1/2 ounces
Alcohol to make 3 ounces.

For local application.

FOOTSORES ON CATTLE: See Veterinary Formulas.

«FORMALDEHYDE:»

See also Disinfectants, Foods, and Milk.

«Commercial Formaldehyde.»—This extremely poisonous preservative is obtained by passing the vapors of wood spirit, in the presence of air, over copper heated to redness. The essential parts of the apparatus employed are a metal chamber into which a feed-tube enters, and from which 4 parallel copper tubes or oxidizers discharge by a common exit tube. This chamber is fitted with inspection apertures, through which the course of the process may be watched and controlled. The wood spirit, stored in a reservoir, falls into a mixer where it is volatilized and intimately mixed with air from a chamber which is connected with a force pump. The gases after traversing the oxidizer are led into a condensing coil, and the crude formaldehyde is discharged into the receiver beneath.

The small amount of uncondensed gas is then led through a series of two washers. The “formol” thus obtained is a mixture of water, methyl alcohol, and 30 to 40 per cent of formaldehyde. It is rectified in a still, by which the free methyl alcohol is removed and pure formol obtained, containing 40 per cent of formaldehyde, chiefly in the form of the acetal. Rectification must not be pushed too far, otherwise the formaldehyde may become polymerized into trioxmethylene. When once oxidation starts, the heat generated is sufficient to keep the oxidizers red hot, so that the process works practically automatically.

«Determination of the Presence of Formaldehyde in Solutions.»—Lemme makes use, for this purpose, of the fact that formaldehyde, in neutral solutions of sodium sulphite, forms normal bisulphite salts, setting free a corresponding quantity of sodium hydrate, that may be titrated with sulphuric acid and phenolphthalein. The sodium sulphite solution has an alkaline reaction toward phenolphthalein, and must be exactly neutralized with sodium bisulphite. Then to 100 cubic centimeters of this solution of 250 grams of sodium sulphite (Na_〈2〉SO_〈3〉 + 7 H_〈2〉O) in 750 grams water, add 5 cubic centimeters of the suspected formaldehyde solution. A strong red color is instantly produced. Titrate with normal sulphuric acid until the color disappears. As the exact disappearance of the color is not easily determined, a margin of from 0.1 to 0.2 cubic centimeters may be allowed without the exactness of the reaction being injured, since 1 cubic centimeter of normal acid answers to only 0.03 grams of formaldehyde.

FORMALIN FOR GRAIN SMUT: See Grain. {363}

«FRAMES: THEIR PROTECTION FROM FLIES.»

Since there is great risk of damaging the gilt when trying to remove flyspecks with spirits of wine, it has been found serviceable to cover gilding with a copal varnish. This hardens and will stand rough treatment, and may be renewed wherever removed.

FRAME CLEANING: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

FRAME POLISHES: See Polishes.

FRAMING, PASSE-PARTOUT: See Passe-Partout.

FRECKLE LOTIONS: See Cosmetics.

FREEZING MIXTURES: See also Refrigeration and Refrigerants.

«Freezing Preventives»

«Liquid for Cooling Automobile Engines.»—In order to prevent freezing of the jacket water, when the engine is not in operation in cold weather, solutions are used, notably of glycerine and of calcium chloride (CaCl_〈2〉). The proportions for the former solution are equal parts of water and glycerine, by weight; for the latter, approximately 1/2 gallon of water to 8 pounds of CaCl_〈2〉, or a saturated solution at 60° F. This solution (CaCl_〈2〉 + 6 H_〈2〉O) is then mixed with equal parts of water, gallon for gallon. Many persons complain that CaCl_〈2〉 corrodes the metal parts, but this warning need do no more than urge the automobilist to use only the chemically pure salt, carefully avoiding the “chloride of lime” (CaOCl_〈2〉).

A practical manufacturing chemist of wide experience gives this:

A saturated solution of common salt is one of the best things to use. It does not affect the metal of the engine, as many other salts would, and is easily renewed. It will remain fluid down to 0° F., or a little below.

Equal parts of glycerine and water is also good, and has the advantage that it will not crystallize in the chambers, or evaporate readily. It is the most convenient solution to use on this account, and may repay the increased cost over brine, in the comfort of its use. It needs only the occasional addition of a little water to make it last all winter and leave the machinery clean when it is drawn off. With brine an incrustation of salt as the water evaporates is bound to occur which reduces the efficiency of the solution until it is removed. Water frequently must be added to keep the original volume, and to hold the salt in solution. A solution of calcium chloride is less troublesome so far as crystallizing is concerned, but is said to have a tendency to corrode the metals.

«Anti-Freezing Solution for Automobilists.»—Mix and filter 4 1/2 pounds pure calcium chloride and a gallon of warm water and put the solution in the radiator or tank. Replace evaporation with clean water, and leakage with solution. Pure calcium chloride retails at about 8 cents per pound, or can be procured from any wholesale drug store at 5 cents.

«Anti-Freezing, Non-Corrosive Solution.»—A solution for water-jackets on gas engines that will not freeze at any temperature above 20° below zero (F.) may be made by combining 100 parts of water, by weight, with 75 parts of carbonate potash and 50 parts of glycerine. This solution is non-corrosive and will remain perfectly liquid at all temperatures above its congealing point.

«Anti-Frost Solution.»—As an excellent remedy against the freezing of shop windows, apply a mixture consisting of 55 parts of glycerine dissolved in 1,000 parts of 62 per cent alcohol, containing, to improve the odor, some oil of amber. As soon as the mixture clarifies, it is rubbed over the inner surface of the glass. This treatment, it is claimed, not only prevents the formation of frost, but also stops sweating.

«Protection of Acetylene Apparatus from Frost.»—Alcohol, glycerine, and calcium chloride have been recommended for the protection of acetylene generators from frost. The employment of calcium chloride, which must not be confounded with chloride of lime, appears preferable in all points of view. A solution of 20 parts of calcium chloride in 80 parts of water congeals only at 5° F. above zero. But as this temperature does not generally penetrate the generators, it will answer to use 10 or 15 parts of the chloride for 100 parts of water, which will almost always be sufficient to avoid congelation. Care must be taken not to use sea salt or other alkaline or metallic salts, which deteriorate the metal of the apparatus.

«FROST BITE.»

When the skin is as yet unbroken, Hugo Kuhl advises the following: {364}

I.—Carbolized water 4 drachms
Nitric acid 1 drop
Oil of geranium 1 drop

Mix. Pencil over the skin and then hold the penciled place near the fire until the skin is quite dry.

If the skin is already broken, use the following ointment:

II.—Hebra’s ointment 500 parts
Glycerine 100 parts
Liquefied carbolic acid 15 parts

Mix. Apply to the broken skin occasionally.

III.—Camphor 25 parts
Iodine, pure 50 parts
Olive oil 500 parts
Paraffine, solid 450 parts
Alcohol, enough.

Dissolve the camphor in the oil and the iodine in the least possible amount of alcohol. Melt the paraffine and add the mixed solutions. When homogeneous pour into suitable molds. Wrap the pencils in paraffine paper or tin foil, and pack in wooden boxes. By using more or less olive oil the pencils may be made of any desired consistency.

IV.—Dissolve 5 parts of camphor in a mixture consisting of 5 parts of ether and 5 parts of alcohol; then add collodion sufficient to make 100 parts.

V.—Dissolve 1 part of thymol in 5 parts of a mixture of ether and alcohol, then add collodion sufficient to make 100 parts.

VI.—Carbolic acid 2 parts
Lead ointment 40 parts
Lanolin 40 parts
Olive oil 20 parts
Lavender oil 1 1/2 parts

VII.—Tannic acid 15 parts
Lycopodium 15 parts
Lard 30 parts

VIII.—Zinc oxide 15 parts
Glycerine 45 parts
Lanolin 40 parts

IX.—Ichthyol 10 parts
Resorcin 10 parts
Tannic acid 10 parts
Distilled water 50 parts

Any of these is to be applied about twice a day.

FROSTED GLASS: See Glass.

FROST PREVENTIVE: See Freezing Preventives.

FROST REMOVERS: See Glass.

FRUIT ESSENCES AND EXTRACTS: See Essences and Extracts.

«Fruit Preserving»

(See also Essences, Extracts, and Preserves.)

«How to Keep Fruit.»—According to experiments of Max de Nansouty, fruit carefully wrapped in silk paper and then buried in dry sand will preserve a fresh appearance with a fresh odor or flavor, almost indefinitely. It may also be preserved in dry excelsior, but not nearly so well. In stubble or straw fruit rots very quickly, while in shavings it mildews quickly. In short, wheat-straw fruit often takes on a musty taste and odor, even when perfectly dry. Finally, when placed on wooden tablets and exposed to the air, most fruit decays rapidly.

I.—Crushed Strawberry.—Put up by the following process, the fruit retains its natural color and taste, and may be exposed to the air for months, without fermenting:

Take fresh, ripe berries, stem them, and rub through a No. 8 sieve, rejecting all soft and green fruit. Add to each gallon of pulp thus obtained, 8 pounds of granulated sugar. Put on the fire and bring just to a boil, stirring constantly. Just before removing from the fire, add to each gallon 1 ounce of a saturated alcoholic solution of salicylic acid, stirring well. Remove the scum, and, while still hot, put into jars, and hermetically seal. Put the jars in cold water, and raise them to the boiling point, to prevent them from bursting by sudden expansion on pouring hot fruit into them. Fill the jars entirely full, so as to leave no air space when fruit cools and contracts.

II.—Crushed Raspberry.—Prepare in the same manner as for crushed strawberry, using 1/2 red raspberries and 1/2 black, to give a nice color, and using 7 pounds of sugar to each gallon of pulp.

III.—Crushed Pineapple.—Secure a good brand of canned grated pineapple, and drain off about one-half of the liquor, by placing on a strainer. Add to each pound of pineapple 1 pound of granulated sugar. Place on the fire, and bring to boiling point, stirring constantly. Just before removing from the fire, add to each gallon of pulp 1 ounce saturated alcoholic solution of salicylic acid. {365} Put into air-tight jars until wanted for use.

IV.—Crushed Peach.—Take a good brand of canned yellow peaches, drain off liquor, and rub through a No. 8 sieve. Add sugar, bring to the boiling point, and when ready to remove from fire add to each gallon 1 ounce saturated alcoholic solution of salicylic acid. Put into jars and seal hermetically.

V.—Crushed Apricot.—Prepared in similar manner to crushed peach, using canned apricots.

VI.—Crushed Orange.—Secure oranges with a thin peel, and containing plenty of juice. Remove the outer, or yellow peel, first, taking care not to include any of the bitter peel. (The outer peel may be used in making orange phosphate, or tincture of sweet orange peel.) Next remove the inner, bitter peel, quarter, and remove the seeds. Extract part of the juice, and grind the pulp through an ordinary meat grinder. Add sugar, place on the fire, and bring to the boiling point. When ready to remove, add to each gallon 1 ounce of saturated alcoholic solution of salicylic acid and 1 ounce of glycerine. Put into air-tight jars.

VII.—Crushed Cherries.—Stone the cherries and grind them to a pulp. Add sugar, and place on the fire, stirring constantly. Before removing, add to each gallon 1 ounce of the saturated solution of salicylic acid. Put into jars and seal.

VIII.—Fresh Crushed Fruits in Season.—In their various seasons berries and fruits may be prepared in fresh lots for the soda fountain each morning, by reducing the fruit to a pulp, and mixing this pulp with an equal quantity of heavy simple syrup.

Berries should be rubbed through a sieve. In selecting berries, it is better to use the medium-sized berries for the pulp, reserving the extra large specimens for garnishing and decorative effects.

Mash the berries with a wooden masher, never using iron or copper utensils, which may discolor the fruit.

Pineapple may be prepared by removing the rough outer skin and grating the pulp upon an ordinary tin kitchen grater. The grater should be scrupulously clean, and care should be taken not to grate off any of the coarse, fibrous matter comprising the fruit’s core.

All crushed fruits are served as follows: Mix equal quantities of pulp and simple syrup in the counter bowl; use 1 1/2 to 2 ounces to each glass, adding the usual quantity of cream, or ice cream. Draw soda, using a fine stream freely.

IX.—Glacés.—Crushed fruits, served in the following manner, make a delicious and refreshing drink:

Crushed fruit 12 drachms Juice of half a lemon. Shaved ice.

Put the ice into a small glass, add the fruit and lemon juice, stir well, and serve with a spoon and straws.

FRUIT PRODUCTS, TESTS FOR: See Foods.

FRUIT SYRUPS: See Syrups.

FRUIT VINEGAR: See Vinegar.

«Fumigants»

(See also Disinfectants.)

«Fumigating Candles.»—I.—Lime wood charcoal, 6,000 parts, by weight, saturated with water (containing saltpeter, 150 parts, by weight, in solution), and dried again, is mixed with benzoin, 750 parts, by weight; styrax, 700 parts, by weight; mastic, 100 parts, by weight; cascarilla, 450 parts, by weight; Peruvian balsam, 40 parts, by weight; Mitcham oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, and bergamot oil, 15 parts, by weight, each; and neroli oil, 3 parts, by weight.

II.—Charcoal, 7,500 parts, by weight; saltpeter, 150 parts, by weight; Tolu balsam, 500 parts, by weight; musk, 2 parts, by weight; rose oil, 1 part. The mixtures are crushed with thick tragacanth to a solid mass.

III.—Sandal wood, 48 parts, by weight; clove, 6 parts, by weight; benzoin, 6 parts, by weight; licorice juice, 4 parts, by weight; potash saltpeter, 2 parts, by weight; cascarilla bark, 1.5 parts, by weight; cinnamon bark, 1.5 parts, by weight; musk, 0.05 parts, by weight. All these substances are powdered and mixed, whereupon the following are added: Styrax (liquid), 5 parts, by weight; cinnamon oil, 0.05 parts, by weight; clove oil, 0.05 parts, by weight; geranium oil, 0.5 parts, by weight; lavender oil, 0.2 parts, by weight; Peruvian balsam, 0.2 parts, by weight. The solid ingredients are each powdered separately, then placed in the respective proportion in a {366} spacious porcelain dish and intimately mixed by means of a flat spatula. The dish must be covered up with a cloth in this operation. After the mixture has been accomplished, add the essential oils and just enough solution of gum arabic so that by subsequent kneading with the pestle a moldable dough results which possesses sufficient solidity after drying. The mass is pressed into metallic molds in the shape of cones not more than 3/4 of an inch in height.

IV.—Red Fumigating Candles.—Sandal wood, 1 part; gum benzoin, 1.5 parts; Tolu balsam, 0.250 parts; sandal oil, .025 parts; cassia oil, .025 parts; clove oil, 25 parts; saltpeter, .090 parts. The powder is mixed intimately, saturated with spirit of wine, in which the oils are dissolved, and shaped into cones.

V.—Wintergreen oil 1 part
Tragacanth 20 parts
Saltpeter 50 parts
Phenol, crystallized 100 parts
Charcoal, powdered 830 parts
Water.

Dissolve the saltpeter in the water, stir the solution together with the powdered charcoal and dry. Then add the tragacanth powder, also the wintergreen oil and the phenol, and prepare from the mixture, by means of a tragacanth solution containing 2 per cent of saltpeter, a mass which can be shaped into candles.

«Fumigating Perfumes.»—These are used for quickly putting down bad odors in the sick room, etc. They are decidedly antiseptic, and fulfil their purpose admirably.

I.—Select good white blotting paper, and cut each large sheet lengthwise into 3 equal pieces. Make a solution of 1 ounce of potassium nitrate in 12 ounces of boiling water; place this solution in a large plate, and draw each strip of paper over the solution so as to saturate it. Then dry by hanging up. The dried paper is to be saturated in a similar manner with either of the following solutions:

(1) Siam benzoin 1 ounce
Storax 3 drachms
Olibanum 2 scruples
Mastic 2 scruples
Cascarilla 2 drachms
Vanilla 1 drachm
Rectified spirit 8 ounces

Bruise the solids and macerate in the spirit 5 days, filter, and add

Oil of cinnamon 8 parts Oil of cloves 8 parts Oil of bergamot 5 parts Oil of neroli 5 parts

Mix.

(2) Benzoin 1 1/2 ounces
Sandal wood 1 ounce
Spirit 8 ounces

Macerate as No. 1, and add

Essence of vetiver 3 ounces Oil of lemon grass 40 drops

Mix.

After the paper is dry, cut up into suitable sized pieces to go into commercial envelopes.

II.—Benzoin 1 av. ounce
Storax 1 av. ounce
Fumigating essence 2 fluidounces
Ether 1 fluidounce
Acetic acid, glacial 20 drops
Alcohol 2 fluidounces

Dissolve the benzoin and storax in a mixture of the alcohol and ether, filter and add the fumigating and the acetic acid. Spread the mixture upon filtering or bibulous paper and allow it to dry. To prevent sticking, dust the surface with talcum and preserve in wax paper. When used the paper is simply warmed, or held over a lamp.

III.—Musk 0.2 parts
Oil of rose 1 part
Benzoin 100 parts
Myrrh 12 parts
Orris root 250 parts
Alcohol (90 per cent) 500 parts

IV.—Benzoin 80 parts
Balsam Tolu 20 parts
Storax 20 parts
Sandal wood 20 parts
Myrrh 10 parts
Cascarilla bark 20 parts
Musk 0.2 parts
Alcohol 250 parts

«Fumigating Ribbon.»—I.—Take 1/2-inch cotton tape and saturate it with niter; when dry, saturate with the following tincture:

Benzoin 1 ounce Orris root 1 ounce Myrrh 2 drachms Tolu balsam 2 drachms Musk 10 grains Rectified spirit 10 ounces

Macerate for a week, filter, and add 10 minims of attar of rose.

II.—Another good formula which may also be used for fumigating paper, is: {367}

Olibanum 2 ounces Storax 1 ounce Benzoin 6 drachms Peruvian balsam 1/2 ounce Tolu balsam 3 drachms Rectified spirit 10 ounces

Macerate 10 days, and filter.

«Perfumed Fumigating Pastilles.»—

I.—Vegetable charcoal 6 ounces
Benzoin 1 ounce
Nitrate of potash 1/2 ounce
Tolu balsam 2 drachms
Sandal wood 2 drachms
Mucilage of tragacanth, a sufficiency.

Reduce the solids to fine powder, mix, and make into a stiff paste with the mucilage. Divide this into cones 25 grains in weight, and dry with a gentle heat.

II.—Powdered willow charcoal 8 ounces
Benzoic acid 6 ounces
Nitrate of potash 6 drachms
Oil of thyme 1/2 drachm
Oil of sandal wood 1/2 drachm
Oil of caraway 1/2 drachm
Oil of cloves 1/2 drachm
Oil of lavender 1/2 drachm
Oil of rose 1/2 drachm
Rose water 10 ounces

Proceed as in I, but this recipe is better for the addition of 20 grains of powdered tragacanth.

III.—Benzoin 10 av. ounces
Charcoal 24 av. ounces
Potassium nitrate 1 av. ounce
Sassafras 2 av. ounces
Mucilage of acacia, sufficient.

Mix the first four in fine powder, add the mucilage, form a mass, and make into conical pastilles.

IV.—Potassium nitrate 375 grains
Water 25 fluidounces
Charcoal wood, powder 30 av. ounces
Tragacanth, powder 375 grains
Storax 300 grains
Benzoin 300 grains
Vanillin 8 grains
Coumarin 3 grains
Musk 3 grains
Civet 1 1/2 grains
Oil of rose 20 drops
Oil of bergamot 15 drops
Oil of ylang-ylang 10 drops
Oil of rhodium 10 drops
Oil of sandal wood 5 drops
Oil of cinnamon 5 drops
Oil of orris 1 drop
Oil of cascarilla 1 drop

Saturate the charcoal with the potassium nitrate dissolved in the water, dry the mass, powder, add the other ingredients, and mix thoroughly. Beat the mixture to a plastic mass with the addition of sufficient mucilage of tragacanth containing 2 per cent of saltpeter in solution, and form into cone-shaped pastilles. In order to evenly distribute the storax throughout the mass, it may be previously dissolved in a small amount of acetic ether.

V.—Benzoin 2 av. ounces
Cascarilla 1 av. ounce
Myrrh 1 av. ounce
Potassium nitrate 1/2 av. ounce
Potassium chlorate 60 grains
Charcoal, wood 4 av. ounces
Oil of cloves 1 fluidrachm
Oil of cinnamon 1 fluidrachm
Oil of lavender 1 fluidrachm
Mucilage of tragacanth, sufficient.

Mix the first six ingredients previously reduced to fine powder, add the oils, and then incorporate enough mucilage to form a mass. Divide this into pastilles weighing about 60 grains and dry.

VI.—Charcoal, powder 30 av. ounces
Potassium nitrate 1/2 av. ounce
Water 33 fluidounces
Tragacanth, powder 300 grains
Tincture of benzoin 1 1/2 fluidounces
Peru balsam 300 grains
Storax, crude 300 grains
Tolu balsam 300 grains
Oleo-balsamic mixture 2 1/2 fluidrachms
Coumarin 8 grains

Saturate the charcoal with the potassium nitrate dissolved in the water, then dry, reduce to powder, and incorporate the tragacanth and then the remaining ingredients. Form a mass by the addition of sufficient mucilage of tragacanth containing 2 per cent of potassium nitrate in solution and divide into pastilles.

VII.—Powdered nitrate of potassium 1/2 ounce
Powdered gum arabic 1/2 ounce
Powdered cascarilla bark (fresh) 1/2 ounce
Powdered benzoin (fresh) 4 ounces {368}
Powdered charcoal 7 ounces
Oil of eucalyptus 25 drops
Oil of cloves 25 drops
Water, a sufficiency.

Make a smooth paste, press into molds and dry.

«FURS:»

«To Clean Furs.»—For dark furs, warm a quantity of new bran in a pan, taking care that it does not burn, to prevent which it must be briskly stirred. When well warmed rub it thoroughly into the fur with the hand. Repeat this 2 or 3 times, then shake the fur, and give it another sharp rubbing until free from dust. For white furs: Lay them on a table, and rub well with bran made moist with warm water; rub until quite dry, and afterwards with dry bran. The wet bran should be put on with flannel, then dry with book muslin. Light furs, in addition to the above, should be well rubbed with magnesia or a piece of book muslin, after the bran process, against the way of the fur.

«To Preserve Furs.»—I.—Furs may be preserved from moths and other insects by placing a little colocynth pulp (bitter apple), or spice (cloves, pimento, etc.), wrapped in muslin, among them; or they may be washed in a very weak solution of corrosive sublimate in warm water (10 to 15 grains to the pint), and afterwards carefully dried. As well as every other species of clothing, they should be kept in a clean, dry place, from which they should be taken out occasionally, well beaten, exposed to the air, and returned.

II.—Sprinkle the furs or woolen stuffs, as well as the drawers or boxes in which they are kept, with spirits of turpentine, the unpleasant scent of which will speedily evaporate on exposure of the stuffs to the air. Some persons place sheets of paper moistened with spirits of turpentine, over, under, or between pieces of cloth, etc., and find it a very effectual method. Many woolen drapers put bits of camphor, the size of a nutmeg, in papers, on different parts of the shelves in their shops, and as they brush their cloths every 2, 3, or 4 months, this keeps them free from moths; and this should be done in boxes where the furs, etc., are put. A tallow candle is frequently put within each muff when laid by. Snuff or pepper is also good.

«FURNACE JACKET.»

A piece of asbestos millboard—10 inches by 4 inches by 3/8 inch—is perforated in about a dozen or more places with glycerined cork borers, then nicked about an inch from each short end and immersed in water until saturated; next the board is bent from the nicks at right angles and the perforated portion shaped by bending it over a bottle with as little force as possible. The result should be a perforated arched tunnel, resting on narrow horizontal ledges at each side. Dry this cover in the furnace, after setting it in position, and pressing it well to the supports. Three such covers, weighing 1 pound, replaced 24 fire clay tiles, weighing 13 pounds, and a higher temperature was obtained than with the latter.

FURNITURE CLEANERS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

FURNITURE, ITS DECORATION: See Wood.

FURNITURE ENAMEL: See Varnishes.

FURNITURE POLISHES: See Polishes.

FURNITURE WAX: See Waxes.

FUSES: See Pyrotechnics.

FUSES FOR ELECTRICAL CIRCUITS: See Alloys.

FUNNELS, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

GALVANIZED PAPER: See Paper, Metallic.

GAMBOGE STAIN: See Lacquers.

GAPES IN POULTRY: See Veterinary Formulas.

GARANCINE PROCESS: See Dyes.

«GARDENS, CHEMICAL:»

See also Sponges.

I.—Put some sand into a fish-globe or other suitable glass vessel to the depth of 2 or 3 inches; in this place a few pieces of sulphate of copper, aluminum, and iron; pour over the whole a solution of sodium silicate (water glass), 1 part, and water, 3 parts, care being taken not to disarrange the chemicals. Let this stand a week or so, when a dense growth of the silicates of the various bases used will be seen in various colors. Now displace {369} the solution of the sodium silicate with clear water, by conveying a stream of water through a very small rubber tube into the vessel. The water will gradually displace the sodium silicate solution. Care must be taken not to disarrange or break down the growth with the stream of water. A little experimenting, experience and expertness will enable the operator to produce a very pretty garden.

II.—This is a permanent chemical garden, which may be suspended by brass chains with a lamp behind.

Prepare a small beaker or jar full of cold saturated solution of Glauber’s salt, and into the solution suspend by means of threads a kidney bean and a non-porous body, such as a marble, stone, glass, etc. Cover the jar, and in a short time there will be seen radiating from the bean small crystals of sulphate of sodium which will increase and give the bean the aspect of a sea urchin, while the non-porous body remains untouched. The bean appears to have a special partiality for the crystals, which is due to the absorption of water by the bean, but not of the salt. In this way a supersaturated solution is formed in the immediate neighborhood of the bean, and the crystals, in forming, attach themselves to its surface.

III.—A popular form of ornamental crystallization is that obtained by immersing a zinc rod in a solution of a lead salt, thus obtaining the “lead tree.” To prepare this, dissolve lead acetate in water, add a few drops of nitric acid, and then suspend the zinc rod in the solution. The lead is precipitated in large and beautiful plates until the solution is exhausted or the zinc dissolved. In this case the action is electro-chemical, the first portions of the lead precipitated forming with the zinc a voltaic arrangement of sufficient power to decompose the salt.

It is said that by substituting chloride of tin for the lead salt a “tin tree” may be produced, while nitrate of silver under the same conditions would produce a “silver tree.” In the latter case distilled water should be used to prevent precipitation of the silver by possible impurities contained in ordinary water.

GAS FIXTURES: See Brass.

GAS FIXTURES, BRONZING OF: See Plating.

GAS SOLDERING: See Soldering.

GAS-STOVES, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

GAS TRICK: See Pyrotechnics.

GEAR LUBRICANT: See Lubricants.

«GELATIN:»

«French Gelatin.»—Gelatin is derived from two sources, the parings of skins, hides, etc., and from bones. The latter are submitted to the action of dilute hydrochloric acid for several days, which attacks the inorganic matters—carbonates, phosphates, etc., and leaves the ossein, which is, so to say, an isomer of the skin substance. The skin, parings of hide, etc., gathered from the shambles, butcher shops, etc., are brought into the factory, and if not ready for immediate use are thrown into quicklime, which preserves them for the time being. From the lime, after washing, they pass into dilute acid, which removes the last traces of lime, and are now ready for the treatment that is to furnish the pure gelatin. The ossein from bones goes through the same stages of treatment, into lime, washed and laid in dilute acid again. From the acid bath the material goes into baths of water maintained at a temperature not higher than from 175° to 195° F.

The gelatin manufacturer buys from the button-makers and manufacturers of knife handles and bone articles generally, those parts of the bone that they cannot use, some of which are pieces 8 inches long by a half inch thick.

Bones gathered by the ragpickers furnish the strongest glue. The parings of skin, hide, etc., are from those portions of bullock hides, calf skins, etc., that cannot be made use of by the tanner, the heads, legs, etc.

The gelatin made by Coignet for the Pharmacie Centrale de France is made from skins procured from the tawers of Paris, who get it directly from the abattoirs, which is as much as to say that the material is guaranteed fresh and healthy, since these institutions are under rigid inspection and surveillance of government inspectors and medical men.

There is a gelatin or glue, used exclusively for joiners, inside carpenters, and ceiling makers (_plafonneurs_), called _rabbit vermicelli_, and derived from rabbit skins. As the first treatment of these skins is to saturate them with mercury bichloride, it is needless to say the product is not employed in pharmacy. {370}

«To Clarify Solutions of Gelatin, Glues, etc.»—If 1 per cent of ammonium fluoride be added to turbid solutions of gelatin or common glue, or, in fact, of any gums, it quickly clarifies them. It causes a deposition of ligneous matter, and also very materially increases the adhesive power of such solutions.

«Air Bubbles in Gelatin.»—The presence of minute air bubbles in cakes of commercial gelatin often imparts to them an unpleasant cloudy appearance. These minute air bubbles are the result of the rapid, continuous process of drying the sheets of gelatin by a counter-current of hot air. Owing to the rapid drying a hard skin is formed on the outside of the cake, leaving a central layer from which the moisture escapes only with difficulty, and in which the air bubbles remain behind. Since the best qualities of gelatin dry most rapidly, the presence of these minute bubbles is, to a certain extent, an indication of superiority, and they rarely occur in the poorer qualities of gelatin. If dried slowly in the old way gelatin is liable to be damaged by fermentation; in such cases large bubbles of gas are formed in the sheets, and are a sign of bad quality.

«GEMS, ARTIFICIAL:»

See also Diamonds.

The raw materials for the production of artificial gems are the finest silica and, as a rule, finely ground rock crystals; white sand and quartz, which remain pure white even at a higher temperature, may also be used.

Artificial borax is given the preference, since the native variety frequently contains substances which color the glass. Lead carbonate or red lead must be perfectly pure and not contain any protoxide, since the latter gives the glass a dull, greenish hue. White lead and red lead have to dissolve completely in dilute nitric acid or without leaving a residue; the solution, neutralized as much as possible, must not be reddened by prussiate of potash. In the former case tin is present, in the latter copper. Arsenious acid and saltpeter must be perfectly pure; they serve for the destruction of the organic substances. The materials, without the coloring oxide, furnish the starting quantity for the production of artificial gems; such glass pastes are named “strass.”

The emerald, a precious stone of green color, is imitated by melting 1,000 parts of strass and 8 parts of chromic oxide. Artificial emeralds are also obtained with cupric acid and ferric oxides, consisting of 43.84 parts of rock crystal; 21.92 parts of dry sodium carbonate; 7.2 parts of calcined and powdered borax; 7.2 parts of red lead; 3.65 parts of saltpeter; 1.21 parts of red ferric oxide, and 0.6 parts of green copper carbonate.

Agates are imitated by allowing fragments of variously colored pastes to flow together, and stirring during the deliquation.

The amethyst is imitated by mixing 300 parts of a glass frit with 0.6 parts of gray manganese ore, or from 300 parts of frit containing 0.8 per cent of manganic oxide, 36.5 parts of saltpeter, 15 parts of borax, and 15 parts of minium (red lead). A handsome amethyst is obtained by melting together 1,000 parts of strass, 8 parts of manganese oxide, 5 parts of cobalt oxide, and 2 parts of gold purple.

Latterly, attempts have also been made to produce very hard glasses for imitation stones from alumina and borax with the requisite coloring agents.

Besides imitation stones there are also produced opaque glass pastes bearing the name of the stones they resemble, e. g., aventurine, azure-stone (lapis lazuli), chrysoprase, turquoise, obsidian, etc. For these, especially pure materials, as belonging to the most important ingredients of glassy bodies, are used, and certain quantities of red lead and borax are also added.

GEM CEMENTS: See Adhesives, under Jewelers’ Cements.

GERMAN SILVER: See Alloys.

GERMAN SILVER SOLDERS: See Solders.

GILDING: See Paints, Plating, and Varnishes.

GILDING GLASS: See Glass.

GILDING, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

GILDING, RENOVATION OF: See Cleaning Compounds.

GILDING SUBSTITUTE: See Plating.

GILT, TEST FOR: See Gold.

GILT WORK, TO BURNISH: See Gold. {371}

GINGERADE: See Beverages.

GINGER ALE AND GINGER BEER: See Beverages.

GINGER CORDIAL: See Wines and Liquors.

GINGER EXTRACTS: See Essences and Extracts.

«Glass»

«Bent Glass.»—This was formerly used for show cases; its use in store fronts is becoming more and more familiar, large plates being bent for this purpose. It is much used in the construction of dwellings, in windows, or rounded corners, and in towers; in coach fronts and in rounded front china closets. Either plain glass or beveled glass may be bent, and to any curve.

The number of molds required in a glass-bending establishment is large.

The bending is done in a kiln. Glass melts at 2,300° F.; the heat employed in bending is 1,800° F. No pyrometer would stand long in that heat, so the heat of the kiln is judged from the color of the flame and other indications. Smaller pieces of glass are put into the molds in the kilns with forks made for the purpose. The great molds used for bending large sheets of glass are mounted on cars, that may be rolled in and out of kilns. The glass is laid upon the top of the mold or cavity, and is bent by its own weight. As it is softened by the heat it sinks into the mold and so is bent. It may take an hour or two to bend the glass, which is then left in the kiln from 24 to 36 hours to anneal and cool. Glass of any kind or size is put into the kilns in its finished state; the great heat to which it is subjected does not disturb the polished surface. Despite every precaution more or less glass is broken in bending. Bent glass costs about 50 per cent more than the flat.

The use of bent glass is increasing, and there are 4 or 5 glass-bending establishments in the United States, of which one is in the East.

«Colored Glass.»—R. Zsigmondy has made some interesting experiments in coloring glass with metallic sulphides, such as molybdenite, and sulphides of antimony, copper, bismuth, and nickel. Tests made with batches of 20 to 40 pounds and with a heat not too great, give good results as follows:

Sand, 65 parts; potash, 15 parts; soda, 5 parts; lime, 9 parts; molybdenite, 3 parts; sulphide of sodium, 2 parts, gave a dark reddish-brown glass. In thinner layers this glass appeared light brownish yellow. Flashed with opal, it became a smutty black brown.

Sand, 50 parts; potash, 15 parts; soda, 5 parts; lime, 9 parts; molybdenite, 1 part; sulphide of sodium, 2 parts, gave a yellow glass.

Sand, 10 parts; potash, 3.3 parts; soda, 0.27 parts; lime, 1.64 parts; molybdenite, 0.03 parts, gave a reddish-yellow glass with a fine tinge of red.

Sand, 100 parts; potash, 26 parts; soda, 108 parts; lime, 12 parts; sulphide of copper, 1.7 parts; sulphide of sodium, 2.3 parts, gave a dark-brown color, varying from sepia to sienna. In thick layers it was no longer transparent, but still clear and unclouded. When heated this glass became smutty black brown and clouded.

A fine copper red was obtained from sand, 10 parts; potash, 3 parts; lime, 1.2 parts; soda, 0.25 parts; sulphide of copper, 7.5 parts; sulphide of sodium, 10.5 parts; borax, 9.5 parts.

Attempts to color with sulphides of antimony and bismuth failed. But the addition of 7 per cent of sulphide of nickel to an ordinary batch gave a glass of fine amethyst color.

«Coloring Electric-Light Bulbs and Globes.»—Two substances suggest themselves as excellent vehicles of color, and both water soluble—water glass (potassium or sodium silicate) and gelatin. For tinting, water-soluble aniline colors should be tried. The thickness of the solution must be a matter of experimentation. Prior to dipping the globes they should be made as free as possible from all grease, dirt, etc. The gelatin solution should not be so thick that any appreciable layer of it will form on the surface of the glass, and to prevent cracking, some non-drying material should be added to it, say glycerine.

«Rose-Tint Glass.»—Selenium is now used for coloring glass. Rose-tinted glass is made by adding selenium directly to the ingredients in the melting pot. By mixing first with cadmium sulphide, orange red is produced. This process is stated not to require the reheating of the glass and its immersion in the coloring mixture, as in the ordinary process of making red glass.

«CUTTING, DRILLING, GRINDING, AND SHAPING GLASS:»

«To Cut Glass.»—I.—Glass may be cut without a diamond. Dip a piece of {372} common string in alcohol and squeeze it reasonably dry. Then tie the string tightly around the glass on the line of cutting. Touch a match to the string and let it burn off. The heat of the burning string will weaken the glass in this particular place. While it is hot plunge the glass under water, letting the arm go well under to the elbow, so there will be no vibration when the glass is struck. With the free hand strike the glass outside the line of cutting, giving a quick, sharp stroke with a stick of wood, a long-bladed knife, or the like, and the cut will be as clean and straight as if made by a regular glass cutter.

The same principle may be employed to cut bottles into vases, and to form all sorts of pretty things, such as jewelry boxes, picture panes, trays, small tablets, windows for a doll house, etc.

II.—Scratch the glass around the shape you desire with the corner of a file or graver; then, having bent a piece of wire into the same shape, heat it red hot and lay it upon the scratch and sink the glass into cold water just deep enough for the water to come almost on a level with its upper surface. It will rarely fail to break perfectly true.

«To Cut Glass Under Water.»—It is possible to cut a sheet of glass roughly to any desired shape with an ordinary pair of scissors, if the operation be performed under water. Of course, a smooth edge cannot be obtained by such means, but it will be found satisfactory.

«Drilling, Shaping, and Filing Glass.»—Take any good piece of steel wire, file to the shape of a drill, and then hold it in a flame till it is at a dull red heat; then quench in metallic mercury. A piece of good steel, thus treated, will bore through glass almost as easily as through soft brass. In use, lubricate with oil of turpentine in which camphor has been dissolved. When the point of the drill has touched the other side put the glass in water, and proceed with the drilling very slowly. If not possible to do this, reverse the work—turn the glass over and drill, very carefully, from the opposite side. By proceeding with care you can easily drill three holes through glass 3/16 inch thick 1/4 of an inch apart. In making the drill be careful not to make the point and the cutting edges too acute. The drill cuts more slowly, but more safely, when the point and cutting edges are at a low angle.

«To Make Holes in Thin Glass.»—To produce holes in panes of thin or weak glass, provide the places to be perforated with a ring of moist loam, whose center leaves free a portion of glass exactly the size of the desired hole. Pour molten lead into the ring, and the glass and lead will fall through at once. This process is based upon the rapid heating of the glass.

«To Grind Glass.»—For the grinding of glass, iron, or steel laps and fine sand are first used; after that, the sand is replaced by emery. Then the polishing is started with pure lead or pure tin laps, and finished with willow wood laps. The polishing powder is tin putty, but peroxide of iron or dioxide of tin is a good polishing medium.

Pohl asserts that if glass is polished with crocus (Paris red) it appears of a dark or a yellowish-brown tint. He contends that the crocus enters the pores of the glass, and, to prevent this, he uses zinc white with the most satisfactory results.

«A Home-Made Outfit for Grinding Glass.»—Provide two pieces of cork, one concave and one convex (which may be cut to shape after fitting to the lathe). Take a copper cent or other suitable article and soft-solder a screw to fit the lathe, and then wax it to the cork; get a cheap emery wheel, such as is used on sewing machines. Polish the edge on the zinc collar of the emery wheel (or use a piece of zinc). The other cork should be waxed to a penny and centered. Spectacle lenses may be cut on the same emery wheel if the wheel is attached to the lathe so as to revolve. Another method is to take a common piece of window glass (green glass is the best) and make a grindstone of that, using the flat surface for grinding. Cement it on a large chuck, the glass being from 2 to 2 1/2 inches in diameter.

«To Drill Optical Glass.»—A graver sharpened to a long point is twisted between the fingers, and pressed against the glass, the point being moistened from time to time with turpentine. When the hole is finished half way, the drilling should be commenced from the other side. The starting should be begun with care, as otherwise the graver is likely to slide out and scratch the lens. It is advisable to mark the point of drilling with a diamond, and not to apply too great a pressure when twisting the graver.

«Lubricants for Glass Drilling.»—I.—Put garlic, chopped in small pieces, into spirit of turpentine and agitate the {373} mixture from time to time. Filter at the end of a fortnight, and when you desire to pierce the glass dip your bit or drill into this liquid, taking care to moisten it constantly to prevent the drill, etc., from becoming heated.

II.—Place a little alum in acetic acid, dip your drill into this and put a drop of it on the spot where the glass is to be pierced.

«GILDING GLASS.»

When it is desired to gild glass for decorative purposes use a solution of gelatin in hot water, to which an equal quantity of alcohol has been added. The glass to be gilded is covered with this solution and the gold leaf put on while wet. A sheet of soft cotton must be pressed and smoothed over the leaf until the gelatin below is evenly distributed. This prevents spots in gilding. Careful apportionment of the gelatin is necessary. If too much be used, the gold may become spotted; if too little, the binding may be too weak to allow the gold to be polished. The glass should be cleaned thoroughly before gilding. After the gold leaf is put on the whole is allowed to dry for 10 or 20 minutes, when the luster of the gold can be raised by a cautious rubbing with cotton. Then another layer of gelatin is spread on with one stroke of a soft brush, and, if especially good work be required, a second layer of gold is put on and covered as before. In this case, however, the gelatin is used hot. After the gilding has become perfectly dry the letters or ornamentation are drawn and the surplus gold around the edges is taken off. The gilding does not become thoroughly fixed until after several months, and until then rough handling, washing, etc., should be avoided.

The best backing for glass gilding is asphaltum, with a little lampblack, this to be mixed up with elastic varnish; outside finishing varnish is the best, as the addition of this material gives durability.

«GLASS MANUFACTURING:»

See also Ceramics.

The blue tint of the common poison bottle is got by the addition of black oxide of cobalt to the molten glass; the green tint of the actinic glass bottle is obtained in the same way by the addition of potassium bichromate, which is reduced to the basylous condition, and the amber tint is produced by the addition of impure manganese dioxide, a superior tint being produced by suphur in one form or another. The formulas for various kinds of bottle glass, which indicate the general composition of almost all glasses, are:

White Glass for Ordinary Molded Bottles.—

Sand 64 parts by weight Lime 6 parts by weight Carbonate of sodium 23 parts by weight Nitrate of sodium 5 parts by weight

White Flint Glass Containing Lead.—

Sand 63 parts by weight Lime 5 parts by weight Carbonate of sodium 21 parts by weight Nitrate of sodium 3 parts by weight Red lead 8 parts by weight

Ordinary Green Glass for Dispensing Bottles.—

Sand 63 parts by weight Carbonate of sodium 26 parts by weight Lime 11 parts by weight

Amixture for producing a good green flint glass is much the same as that for the ordinary white flint glass, except that the lime, instead of being the purest, is ordinary slaked lime, and the sodium nitrate is omitted. Sand, lime, and sodium carbonate are the ordinary bases of glass, while the sodium nitrate is the decolorizing agent.

Glass Refractory to Heat.—Fine sand, 70 parts; potash, 30 parts; kaolin, 25 parts.

Transparent Ground Glass.—Take hold of the glass by one corner with an ordinary pair of fire tongs. Hold it in front of a clear fire, and heat to about 98° F., or just hot enough to be held comfortably in the hand. Then hold the glass horizontally, ground side uppermost, and pour in the center a little photographer’s dry-plate negative varnish. Tilt the glass so that the varnish spreads over it evenly, then drain back the surplus varnish into the bottle from one corner of the glass. Hold the glass in front of the fire again for a few minutes and the varnish will crystallize on its surface, making it transparent. The glass should not be made too hot before the varnish is put on, or the varnish will not run evenly. This method answers very well for self-made magic-lantern slides. Ground glass may be made temporarily transparent by wiping with a sponge dipped in paraffine or glycerine.

«WATER-TIGHT GLASS:»

«Water-Tight Glass Roofs.»—Glass roofs, the skeletons of which are constructed {374} of iron, are extremely difficult to keep water-tight, as the iron expands and contracts with atmospheric changes. To meet this evil, it is necessary to use an elastic putty, which follows the variations of the iron. A good formula is: Two parts rosin and one part tallow, melted together and stirred together thoroughly with a little minium. This putty is applied hot upon strips of linen or cotton cloth, on top and below, and these are pasted while the putty is still warm, with one edge on the iron ribs and the other, about one-fourth inch broad, over the glass.

«Tightening Agent for Acid Receptacles.»—Cracked vessels of glass or porcelain, for use in keeping acids, can be made tight by applying a cement prepared in the following manner: Take finely sifted sand, some asbestos with short fiber, a little magnesia and add enough concentrated water glass to obtain a readily kneadable mass. The acid renders the putty firm and waterproof.

«PENCILS FOR MARKING GLASS:»

See also Etching and Frosted Glass.

Crayons for Writing on Glass.—I.—The following is a good formula:

Spermaceti 4 parts Tallow 3 parts Wax 2 parts Red lead 6 parts Potassium carbonate 1 part

Melt the spermaceti, tallow, and wax together over a slow fire, and when melted stir in, a little at a time, the potassium carbonate and red lead, previously well mixed. Continue the heat for 20 or 30 minutes, stirring constantly. Withdraw from the source of heat, and let cool down somewhat, under constant stirring, at the temperature of about 180° F.; before the mixture commences to set, pour off into molds and let cool. The latter may be made of bits of glass tubing of convenient diameter and length. After the mixture cools, drive the crayons out by means of a rod that closely fits the diameter of the tubes.

II.—Take sulphate of copper, 1 part, and whiting, 1 part. Reduce these to a fine powder and mix with water; next roll this paste into the shape of crayons and let dry. When it is desired to write on the glass use one of these crayons and wipe the traced designs. To make them reappear breathe on the glass.

III.—Melt together, spermaceti, 3 parts; talc, 3 parts, and wax, 2 parts. When melted stir in 6 parts of minium and 1 part of caustic potash. Continue heating for 30 minutes, then cast in suitable molds. When formed and ready to be put away dust them with talc powder, or roll each pencil in paraffine powder.

«PREVENTION OF FOGGING, DIMMING, AND CLOUDING.»

I.—Place a few flat glass or porcelain dishes with calcium chloride in each window. This substance eagerly absorbs all moisture from the air. The contents of the dishes have to be renewed every 2 or 3 days, and the moist calcium chloride rigorously dried, whereupon it may be used over again.

II.—Apply to the inside face of the glass a thin layer of glycerine, which does not permit the vapor to deposit in fine drops and thus obstruct the light. Double glass may also be used. In this way the heat of the inside is not in direct contact with the cold outside.

III.—By means of the finger slightly moistened, apply a film of soap of any brand or kind to the mirror; then rub this off with a clean, dry cloth; the mirror will be as bright and clear as ever; breathing on it will not affect its clearness.

IV.—Window glass becomes dull during storage by reason of the presence of much alkali. This can be avoided by taking sand, 160 parts; calcined sodium sulphate, 75; powdered marble, 50; and coke, 4 to 5 parts. About 3 parts of the sodium sulphate may be replaced by an equal quantity of potash.

«FROSTED GLASS.»

I.—A frosted appearance may be given to glass by covering it with a mixture of

Magnesium sulphate 6 ounces Dextrin 2 ounces Water 20 ounces

When this solution dries, the magnesium sulphate crystallizes in fine needles.

II.—Another formula directs a strong solution of sodium or magnesium sulphate, applied warm, and afterwards coated with a thin solution of acacia.

III.—A more permanent “frost” may be put on the glass by painting with white lead and oil, either smooth or in stipple effect. The use of lead acetate with oil gives a more pleasing effect, perhaps, than the plain white lead.

IV.—If still greater permanency is desired, the glass may be ground by rubbing with some gritty substance. {375}

V.—For a temporary frosting, dip a piece of flat marble into glass cutter’s sharp sand, moistened with water; rub over the glass, dipping frequently in sand and water. If the frosting is required very fine, finish off with emery and water. Mix together a strong, hot solution of Epsom salt and a clear solution of gum arabic; apply warm. Or use a strong solution of sodium sulphate, warm, and when cool, wash with gum water. Or daub the glass with a lump of glazier’s putty, carefully and uniformly, until the surface is equally covered. This is an excellent imitation of ground glass, and is not disturbed by rain or damp.

VI.—This imitates ground glass:

Sandarac 2 1/2 ounces Mastic 1/2 ounce Ether 24 ounces Benzine 16 to 18 ounces