Chapter I: II III IV V VI (6)

IV.—Sweet almonds, blanched 5 ounces Castile soap, white 120 grains White wax 120 grains Spermaceti 120 grains Oil of bitter almonds 10 drops Oil of bergamot 20 drops Alcohol 6 fluidounces Water, sufficient.

Make an emulsion of the almonds with water so as to obtain 16 fluidounces of product, straining through cotton which has previously been washed to remove starch. Dissolve the soap with the aid of heat in the necessary amount of water to form a liquid, add the wax and spermaceti, continue the heat until the latter is melted, transfer to a mortar, and incorporate the almond emulsion slowly with constant stirring until all has been added and a smooth cream has been formed. Finally, add the two volatile oils.

V.—Melt, at moderate heat,

By weight. White wax 100 parts Spermaceti 1,000 parts

Then stir in

By weight. Almond oil 500 parts Rose water 260 parts

And scent with

By weight. Bergamot oil 10 parts Geranium oil 5 parts Lemon oil 4 parts

By weight. VI.—Castor oil 500 parts White wax 100 parts Almond oil 150 parts

Melt at moderate heat and scent with

By weight. Geranium oil 6 parts Lemon oil 5 parts Bergamot oil 10 parts

By weight. VII.—Almond oil 400 parts Lanoline 200 parts White wax 60 parts Spermaceti 60 parts Rose water 300 parts

By weight. VIII.—White wax 6 parts Tallow, freshly tried out 4 parts Spermaceti 2 parts Oil of sweet almonds 6 parts

Melt together and while still hot add, with constant stirring, 1 part of sodium carbonate dissolved in 79 parts of hot water. Stir until cold. Perfume to the taste.

IX.—Ointment of rose water 1 ounce Oil of sweet almonds. 1 fluidounce Glycerine 1 fluidounce Boric acid 100 grains Solution of soda 2 1/4 fluidounces Mucilage of quince seed. 4 fluidounces Water enough to make 40 fluidounces Oil of rose, oil of bitter almonds, of each sufficient to perfume.

Heat the ointment, oil, and solution of soda together, stirring constantly until an emulsion or saponaceous mixture is {237} formed. Then warm together the glycerine, acid, and mucilage and about 30 fluidounces of water; mix with the emulsion, stir until cold, and add the remainder of the water. Lastly, add the volatile oils.

The rose-water ointment used should be the “cold cream” of the United States Pharmacopœia.

X.—Spermaceti 2 ounces White wax 2 ounces Sweet almond oil 14 fluidounces Water, distilled 7 fluidounces Borax, powder 60 grains Coumarin 1/2 grain Oil of bergamot 24 drops Oil of rose 6 drops Oil of bitter almonds 8 drops Tincture of ambergris 5 drops

Melt the spermaceti and wax, add the sweet almond oil, incorporate the water in which the borax has previously been dissolved, and finally add the oils of bergamot, rose, and bitter almond.

XI.—Honey 2 av. ounces Castile soap, white powder 1 av. ounce Oil sweet almonds 26 fluidounces Oil bitter almonds 1 fluidrachm Oil bergamot 1/2 fluidrachm Oil cloves 15 drops Peru balsam 1 fluidrachm Liquor potassa. Solution carmine, of each sufficient.

Mix the honey with the soap in a mortar, and add enough liquor potassa (about 1 fluidrachm) to produce a nice cream. Mix the volatile oils and balsam with the sweet almond oil, mix this with the cream, and continue the trituration until thoroughly mixed. Finally add, if desired, enough carmine solution to impart a rose tint.

XII.—White wax 800 parts Spermaceti 800 parts Sweet almond oil 5,600 parts Distilled water 2,800 parts Borax 50 parts Bergamot oil 20 parts Attar of rose 5 parts Coumarin 0.1 part

Add for each pound of the cream 5 drops of etheric oil of bitter almonds, and 3 drops tincture of ambra. Proceed as in making cold cream.

The following also makes a fine cream:

XIII.—Spermaceti 3 parts
White wax 2 parts
Oil of almonds, fresh 12 parts
Rose water, double 1 part
Glycerine, pure 1 part

Melt on a water bath the spermaceti and wax, add the oil (which should be fresh), and pour the whole into a slightly warmed mortar, under constant and lively stirring, to prevent granulation. Continue the trituration until the mass has a white, creamy appearance, and is about the consistence of butter at ordinary temperature. Add, little by little, under constant stirring, the orange-flower water and glycerine mixed, and finally the perfume as before. Continue the stirring for 15 or 20 minutes, then immediately put into containers.

«Chappine Cream.»—

Quince seed 2 drachms Glycerine 1 1/2 ounces Water 1 1/2 ounces Lead acetate 10 grains Flavoring, sufficient.

Macerate the quince seed in water, strain, add the glycerine and lead acetate, previously dissolved in sufficient water; flavor with jockey club or orange essence.

«Cucumber Creams.»—

I.—White wax 3 ounces
Spermaceti 3 ounces
Benzoinated lard 8 ounces
Cucumbers 3 ounces

Melt together the wax, spermaceti, and lard, and infuse in the liquid the cucumbers previously grated. Allow to cool, stirring well; let stand a day, remelt, strain and again stir the “cream” until cold.

II.—Benzoinated lard 5 ounces
Suet 3 ounces
Cucumber juice 10 ounces
Proceed as in making cold cream.

«Glycerine Creams.»—

I.—Oil of sweet almonds 100 parts
White wax 13 parts
Glycerine, pure 25 parts
Add a sufficient quantity of any suitable perfume.

Melt, on the water bath, the oil, wax, and glycerine together, remove and as the mass cools down add the perfume in sufficient quantity to make a creamy mass. {238}

II.—Quince seed 1 ounce
Boric acid 16 grains
Starch 1 ounce
Glycerine 16 ounces
Carbolic acid 30 minims
Alcohol 12 ounces
Oil of lavender 30 minims
Oil of rose 10 drops
Extract of white rose 1 ounce
Water enough to make 64 ounces

Dissolve the boric acid in a quart of water and in this solution macerate the quince seed for 3 hours; then strain. Heat together the starch and the glycerine until the starch granules are broken, and mix with this the carbolic acid. Dissolve the oils and the extract of rose in the alcohol, and add to the quince-seed mucilage; then mix all together, strain, and add water enough to make the product weigh 64 ounces.

III.—Glycerine 1 ounce
Borax 2 drachms
Boracic acid 1 drachm
Oil rose geranium 30 drops
Oil bitter almond 15 drops
Milk 1 gallon

Heat the milk until it curdles and allow it to stand 12 hours. Strain it through cheese cloth and allow it to stand again for 12 hours. Mix in the salts and glycerine and triturate in a mortar, finally adding the odors and coloring if wanted. The curdled milk must be entirely free from water to avoid separation. If the milk will not curdle fast enough the addition of 1 ounce of water ammonia to a gallon will hasten it. Take a gallon of milk, add 1 ounce ammonia water, heat (not boil), allow to stand 24 hours, and no trouble will be found in forming a good base for the cream.

IV.—This is offered as a substitute for cucumber cream for toilet uses. Melt 15 parts, by weight, of gelatin in hot water containing 15 parts, by weight, of boracic acid as well as 150 parts, by weight, of glycerine; the total amount of water used should not exceed 300 parts, by weight. It may be perfumed or not.

«Lanolin Creams.»—

I.—Anhydrous lanolin 650 parts
Peach-kernel oil 200 parts
Water 150 parts

Perfume with about 15 drops of ionone or 20 drops of synthetic ylang-ylang.

II.—Lanolin 40 parts
Olive oil 15 parts
Paraffine ointment 10 parts
Aqua naphæ 10 parts
Distilled water 15 parts
Glycerine 5 parts
Boric acid 4 parts
Borax 4 parts
Geranium oil, sufficient.
Extract, triple, of ylang-ylang, quantity sufficient.

III.—Anhydrous lanolin 650 drachms
Almond oil 200 drachms
Water 150 drachms
Oil of ylang-ylang 5 drops

Preparations which have been introduced years ago for the care of the skin and complexion are the glycerine gelées, which have the advantage over lanolin that they go further, but present the drawback of not being so quickly absorbed by the skin. These products are filled either into glasses or into tubes. The latter way is preferable and is more and more adopted, owing to the convenience of handling.

A good recipe for such a gelée is the following:

Moisten white tragacanth powder, 50 parts, with glycerine, 200 parts, and spirit of wine, 100 parts, and shake with a suitable amount of perfume; then quickly mix and shake with warm distilled water, 650 parts.

A transparent slime will form immediately which can be drawn off at once.

«Mucilage Creams.»—

I.—Starch 30 parts
Carrageen mucilage 480 parts
Boric acid 15 parts
Glycerine 240 parts
Cologne water 240 parts

Boil the starch in the carrageen mucilage, add the boric acid and the glycerine. Let cool, and add the cologne water.

II.—Linseed mucilage 240 parts
Boric acid 2 parts
Salicylic acid 1.3 parts
Glycerine 60 parts
Cologne water 120 parts
Rose water 120 parts

Instead of the cologne water any extracts may be used. Lilac and ylang-ylang are recommended.

«Witch-Hazel Creams.»—

I.—Quince seed 90 grains
Boric acid 8 grains
Glycerine 4 fluidounces
Alcohol 6 fluidounces
Carbolic acid 6 drachms
Cologne water 4 fluidounces
Oil lavender flowers 40 drops {239}
Glycerite starch 4 av. ounces
Distilled witch-hazel extract enough to make 32 fluidounces.

Dissolve the boric acid in 16 ounces of the witch-hazel extract, macerate the quince seed in the solution for 3 hours, strain, add the glycerine, carbolic acid, and glycerite, and mix well. Mix the alcohol, cologne water, lavender oil, and mucilages, incorporate with the previous mixture, and add enough witch-hazel extract to bring to the measure of 32 fluidounces.

II.—Quince seed 4 ounces Hot water 16 ounces Glycerine 32 ounces Witch-hazel water 128 ounces Boric acid 6 ounces Rose extract 2 ounces Violet extract 1 ounce

Macerate the quince seed in the hot water; add the glycerine and witch-hazel, in which the boric acid has been previously dissolved; let the mixture stand for 2 days, stirring occasionally; strain and add the perfume.

«Skin Cream for Collapsible Tubes.»—

I.—White vaseline 6 ounces White wax 1 ounce Spermaceti 5 drachms Subchloride bismuth 6 drachms Attar of rose 6 minims Oil of bitter almonds 1 minim Rectified spirit 1/2 ounce

Melt the vaseline, wax, and spermaceti together, and while cooling incorporate the subchloride of bismuth (in warm mortar). Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, and add to the fatty mixture, stirring all until uniform and cold. In cold weather the quantities of wax and spermaceti may be reduced.

II.—Lanolin 1 ounce Almond oil 1 ounce Oleate of zinc (powder) 3 drachms Extract of white rose 1 1/2 drachms Glycerine 2 drachms Rose water 2 drachms

«Face Cream Without Grease.»—

Quince seed 10 parts Boiling water 1,000 parts Borax 5 parts Boric acid 5 parts Glycerine 100 parts Alcohol, 94 per cent 125 parts Attar of rose, quantity sufficient to perfume.

Macerate the quince seed in half of the boiling water, with frequent agitations, for 2 hours and 30 minutes, then strain off. In the residue of the boiling water dissolve the borax and boric acid, add the glycerine and the perfume, the latter dissolved in the alcohol. Now add, little by little, the colate of quince seed, under constant agitation, which should be kept up for 5 minutes after the last portion of the colate is added.

«TOILET MILKS:»

«Cucumber Milk.»—

Simple cerate 2 pounds Powdered borax 11 1/2 ounces Powdered castile soap 10 ounces Glycerine 26 ounces Alcohol 24 ounces Cucumber juice 32 ounces Water to 5 gallons Ionone 1 drachm Jasmine 1/2 drachm Neroli 1/2 drachm Rhodinol 15 minims

To the melted cerate in a hot water bath add the soap and stir well, keeping up the heat until perfectly mixed. Add 8 ounces of borax to 1 gallon of boiling water, and pour gradually into the hot melted soap and cerate; add the remainder of the borax and hot water, then the heated juice and glycerine, and lastly the alcohol. Shake well while cooling, set aside for 48 hours, and siphon off any water that may separate. Shake well, and repeat after standing again if necessary; then perfume.

«Cucumber Juice.»—It is well to make a large quantity, as it keeps indefinitely. Washed unpeeled cucumbers are grated and pressed; the juice is heated, skimmed and boiled for 5 minutes, then cooled and filtered. Add 1 part of alcohol to 2 parts of juice, let stand for 12 hours or more, and filter until clear.

«Glycerine Milk.»—

Glycerine 1,150 parts Starch, powdered 160 parts Distilled water 400 parts Tincture of benzoin 20 parts

Rub up 80 parts of the starch with the glycerine, then put the mixture on the steam bath and heat, under continuous stirring, until it forms a jellylike mass. Remove from the bath and stir in the remainder of the starch. Finally, add the water and tincture and stir till homogeneous.

«Lanolin Toilet Milk.»—

White castile soap, powdered 22 grains Lanolin 1 ounce Tincture benzoin 12 drachms Water, enough.

{240}

Dissolve the soap in 2 fluidounces of warm water, also mix the lanolin with 2 fluidounces of warm water; then incorporate the two with each other, finally adding the tincture. The latter may be replaced by 90 grains of powdered borax.

«Jasmine Milk.»—To 25 parts of water add gradually, with constant stirring, 1 part of zinc white, 2 quarts of grain spirit, and 0.15 to 0.25 part of glycerine; finally stir in 0.07 to 0.10 part of jasmine essence. Filter the mixture and fill into glass bottles. For use as a cosmetic, rub on the raspberry paste on retiring at night, and in the morning use the jasmine milk to remove the paste from the skin. The two work together in their effect.

«SUNBURN AND FRECKLE REMEDIES.»

I.—Apply over the affected skin a solution of corrosive sublimate, 1 in 500, or, if the patient can stand it, 1 in 300, morning and evening, and for the night apply emplastrum hydrargyri compositum to the spots. In the morning remove the plaster and all remnants of it by rubbing fresh butter or cold cream over the spots.

For redness of the skin apply each other day zinc oxide ointment or ointment of bismuth subnitrate.

II.—Besnier recommends removal of the mercurial ointment with green soap, and the use, at night, of an ointment composed of vaseline and Vigo’s plaster (emplastrum hydrargyri compositum), in equal parts. In the morning wash off with soap and warm water, and apply the following:

Vaseline, white 20 parts Bismuth carbonate 5 parts Kaolin 5 parts

Mix, and make an ointment.

III.—Leloir has found the following of service. Clean the affected part with green soap or with alcohol, and then apply several coats of the following:

Acid chrysophanic 15 parts Chloroform 100 parts

Mix. Apply with a camel’s-hair pencil.

When the application dries thoroughly, go over it with a layer of traumaticine. This application will loosen itself in several days, when the process should be repeated.

IV.—When the skin is only slightly discolored use a pomade of salicylic acid, or apply the following:

Acid chrysophanic, from 1 to 4 parts Acid salicylic 1 to 2 parts Collodion 40 parts

V.—When there is need for a more complicated treatment, the following is used:

(_a_) Corrosive sublimate 1 part
Orange-flower water 7,500 parts
Acid, hydrochloric, dilute 500 parts

(_b_) Bitter almonds 4,500 parts
Glycerine 2,500 parts
Orange-flower water 25,000 parts

Rub up to an emulsion in a porcelain capsule. Filter and add, drop by drop, and under constant stirring, 5 grams of tincture of benzoin. Finally mix the two solutions, adding the second to the first.

This preparation is applied with a sponge, on retiring, to the affected places, and allowed to dry on.

VI.—According to Brocq the following should be penciled over the affected spots:

Fresh pure milk 50 parts Glycerine 30 parts Acid, hydrochloric, concentrated 5 parts Ammonium chlorate 3 parts

VII.—Other external remedies that may be used are lactic acid diluted with 3 volumes of water, applied with a glass rod; dilute nitric acid, and, finally, peroxide of hydrogen, which last is a very powerful agent. Should it cause too much inflammation, the latter may be assuaged by using an ointment of zinc oxide or bismuth subnitrate—or one may use the following:

Kaolin 4 parts Vaseline 10 parts Glycerine 4 parts Magnesium carbonate 2 parts Zinc oxide 2 parts

«Freckle Remedies.»—

I.—Poppy oil 1 part
Lead acetate 2 parts
Tincture benzoin 1 part
Tincture quillaia 5 parts
Spirit nitrous ether 1 part
Rose water 95 parts

Saponify the oil with the lead acetate; add the rose water, and follow with the tinctures.

II.—Chloral hydrate 2 drachms
Carbolic acid 1 drachm {241}
Tincture iodine 60 drops
Glycerine 1 ounce

Mix and dissolve. Apply with a camel’s-hair pencil at night.

III.—Distilled vinegar 660 parts
Lemons, cut in small pieces 135 parts
Alcohol, 85 per cent 88 parts
Lavender oil 23 parts
Water 88 parts
Citron oil 6 parts

This mixture is allowed to stand for 3 or 4 days in the sun and filtered. Coat, by means of a sponge before retiring, the places of the skin where the freckles are and allow to dry.

«Freckles and Liver Spots.»—Modern dermatological methods of treating freckles and liver spots are based partly on remedies that cause desquamation and those that depigmentate (or destroy or neutralize pigmentation). Both methods may be distinguished in respect to their effects and mode of using into the following: The active ingredients of the desquamative pastes are reductives which promote the formation of epithelium and hence expedite desquamation.

There are many such methods, and especially to be mentioned is that of Unna, who uses resorcin for the purpose. Lassar makes use of a paste of naphthol and sulphur.

«Sunburn Remedies.»—

I.—Zinc sulphocarbolate 1 part
Glycerine. 20 parts
Rose water 70 parts
Alcohol, 90 per cent 8 parts
Cologne water 1 part
Spirit of camphor 1 part

II.—Borax 4 parts Potassium chlorate 2 parts Glycerine 10 parts Alcohol 4 parts Rose water to make 90 parts

III.—Citric acid 2 drachms Ferrous sulphate (cryst.) 18 grains Camphor 2 grains Elder-flower water 3 fluidounces

IV.—Potassium carbonate 3 parts Sodium chloride 2 parts Orange-flower water 15 parts Rose water 65 parts

V.—Boroglycerine, 50 per cent 1 part Ointment of rose water 9 parts

VI.—Sodium bicarbonate 1 part Ointment of rose water 7 parts

VII.—Bicarbonate of soda 2 drachms Powdered borax 1 drachm Compound tincture of lavender 1 1/2 drachms Glycerine 1 ounce Rose water 4 ounces

Dissolve the soda and borax in the glycerine and rose water, and add the tincture. Apply with a small piece of sponge 2 or 3 times a day. Then gently dry by dabbing with a soft towel.

VIII.—Quince seeds 2 drachms Distilled water 10 ounces Glycerine 2 ounces Alcohol, 94 per cent 1 ounce Rose water 2 ounces

Boil the seeds in the water for 10 minutes, then strain off the liquid, and when cold add to it the glycerine, alcohol, and rose water.

IX.—White soft soap 2 1/2 drachms
Glycerine 1 1/2 drachms
Almond oil 11 drachms

Well mix the glycerine and soap in a mortar, and very gradually add the oil, stirring constantly until perfectly mixed.

X.—Subnitrate of bismuth 1 1/2 drachms
Powdered French chalk 30 grains
Glycerine 2 drachms
Rose water 1 1/2 ounces

Mix the powders, and rub down carefully with the glycerine; then add the rose water. Shake the bottle before use.

XI.—Glycerine cream 2 drachms
Jordan almonds 4 drachms
Rose water 5 ounces
Essential oil of almonds 3 drops

Blanch the almonds, and then dry and beat them up into a perfectly smooth paste; then mix in the glycerine cream and essential oil. Gradually add the rose water, stirring well after each addition; then strain through muslin.

«Tan and Freckle Lotion.»—

Solution A:

Potassium iodide, iodine, glycerine, and infusion rose.

Dissolve the potassium iodide in a {242} small quantity of the infusion and a drachm of the glycerine; with this fluid moisten the iodine in a glass of water and rub it down, gradually adding more liquid, until complete solution has been obtained; then stir in the remainder of the ingredients, and bottle the mixture.

Solution B:

Sodium thiosulphate and rose water. With a small camel’s-hair pencil or piece of fine sponge apply a little of solution A to the tanned or freckled surface, until a slight or tolerably uniform brownish yellow skin has been produced. At the expiration of 15 or 20 minutes moisten a piece of cambric, lint, or soft rag with B and lay it upon the affected part, removing, squeezing away the liquid, soaking it afresh, and again applying until the iodine stain has disappeared. Repeat the process thrice daily, but diminish the frequency of application if tenderness be produced.

«A Cure for Tan.»—Bichloride of mercury, in coarse powder, 10 grains; distilled water, 1 pint. Agitate the two together until a complete solution is obtained. Add 1/2 ounce of glycerine. Apply with a small sponge as often as agreeable. This is not strong enough to blister and skin the face in average cases. It may be increased or reduced in strength by adding to or taking from the amount of bichloride of mercury. Do not forget that this last ingredient is a powerful poison and should be kept out of the reach of children and ignorant persons.

«Improved Carron Oil.»—Superior to the old and more suitable. A desirable preparation for burns, tan, freckle, sunburn, scalds, abrasions, or lung affections. Does not oxidize so quickly or dry up so rapidly and less liable to rancidity.

Linseed oil 2 ounces Limewater 2 ounces Paraffine, liquid 1 ounce

Mix the linseed oil and water, and add the paraffine. Shake well before using.

«LIVER SPOTS.»

I.—Corrosive sublimate 1 part
White sugar 190 parts
White of egg 34 parts
Lemon juice 275 parts
Water to make 2,500 parts

Mix the sublimate, sugar, and albumen intimately, then add the lemon juice and water. Dissolve, shake well, and after standing an hour, filter. Apply in the morning after the usual ablutions, and let dry on the face.

II.—Bichloride of mercury, in coarse powder, 8 grains; witch-hazel, 2 ounces; rose water, 2 ounces.

Agitate until a solution is obtained. Mop over the affected parts. Keep out of the way of ignorant persons and children.

«TOILET POWDERS:»

«Almond Powders for the Toilet.»—

I.—Almond meal 6,000 parts
Bran meal 3,000 parts
Soap powder 600 parts
Bergamot oil 50 parts
Lemon oil 15 parts
Clove oil 15 parts
Neroli oil 6 parts

II.—Almond meal 7,000 parts
Bran meal 2,000 parts
Violet root 900 parts
Borax 350 parts
Bitter almond oil 18 parts
Palmarosa oil 36 parts
Bergamot oil 10 parts

III.—Almond meal 3,000 parts
Bran meal 3,000 parts
Wheat flour 3,000 parts
Sand 100 parts
Lemon oil 40 parts
Bitter almond oil 10 parts

«Bath Powder.»—

Borax 4 ounces Salicylic acid 1 drachm Extract of cassia 1 drachm Extract of jasmine 1 drachm Oil of lavender 20 minims

Rub the oil and extracts with the borax and salicylic acid until the alcohol has evaporated. Use a heaping teaspoonful to the body bath.

«Brunette or Rachelle.»—

Base 9 pounds Powdered Florentine orris 1 pound Perfume the same. Powdered yellow ocher (av.) 3 ounces 120 grains Carmine No. 40 60 grains

Rub down the carmine and ocher with alcohol in a mortar, and spread on glass to dry; then mix and sift.

«Violet Poudre de Riz.»—

I.—Cornstarch 7 pounds
Rice flour 1 pound
Powdered talc 1 pound
Powdered orris root 1 pound
Extract of cassia 3 ounces
Extract of jasmine 1 ounce

{243}

II.—Cheaper.

Potato starch 8 pounds Powdered talc 1 pound Powdered orris 1 pound Extract of cassia 3 ounces

«Barber’s Powder.»—

Cornstarch 5 pounds Precipitated chalk 3 pounds Powdered talc 2 pounds Oil of neroli 1 drachm Oil of cedrat 1 drachm Oil of orange 2 drachms Extract of jasmine 1 ounce

«Rose Poudre de Riz.»—

I.—Cornstarch 9 pounds
Powdered talc 1 pound
Oil of rose 1 1/4 drachms
Extract of jasmine 6 drachms

II.—Potato starch 9 pounds
Powdered talc 1 pound
Oil of rose 1/2 drachm
Extract of jasmine 1/2 ounce

«Ideal Cosmetic Powder.»—The following combines the best qualities that a powder for the skin should have:

Zinc, white 50 parts Calcium carbonate, precipitated 300 parts Steatite, best white 50 parts Starch, wheat, or rice 100 parts Extract white rose, triple 3 parts Extract jasmine, triple 3 parts Extract orange flower, triple 3 parts Extract of cassia, triple 3 parts Tincture of myrrh 1 part

Powder the solids and mix thoroughly by repeated siftings.

«Flesh Face Powder.»—

Base 9 pounds Powdered Florentine orris 1 pound Carmine No. 40 250 grains Extract of jasmine 100 minims Oil of neroli 20 minims Vanillin 5 grains Artificial musk 30 grains White heliotropin 30 grains Coumarin 1 grain

Rub the carmine with a portion of the base and alcohol in a mortar, mixing the perfume the same way in another large mortar, and adding the orris. Mix and sift all until specks of carmine disappear on rubbing.

«White Face Powder.»—

Base 9 pounds Powdered Florentine orris 1 pound

Perfume the same. Mix and sift.

«Talcum Powders.»—Talc, when used as a toilet powder should be in a state of very fine division. Antiseptics are sometimes added in small proportion, but these are presumably of little or no value in the quantity allowable, and may prove irritating. For general use, at all events, the talcum alone is the best and the safest. As a perfume, rose oil may be employed, but on account of its cost, rose geranium oil is probably more frequently used. A satisfactory proportion is 1/2 drachm of the oil to a pound of the powder. In order that the perfume may be thoroughly disseminated throughout the powder, the oil should be triturated first with a small portion of it; this should then be further triturated with a larger portion, and, if the quantity operated on be large, the final mixing may be effected by sifting. Many odors besides that of rose would be suitable for a toilet powder. Ylang-ylang would doubtless prove very attractive, but expensive.

The following formulas for other varieties of the powder may prove useful:

Violet Talc.—

I.—Powdered talc 14 ounces
Powdered orris root 2 ounces
Extract of cassia 1/2 ounce
Extract of jasmine 1/4 ounce

Rose Talc.—

II.—Powdered talc 5 pounds
Oil of rose 1/2 drachm
Extract of jasmine 4 ounces

Tea-Rose Talc.—

III.—Powdered talc 5 pounds
Oil of rose 50 drops
Oil of wintergreen 4 drops
Extract of jasmine 2 ounces

Borated Apple Blossom.—

IV.—Powdered talc 22 pounds
Magnesium carbonate 2 3/4 pounds
Powdered boric acid 1 pound

Mix.

Carnation pink blossom (Schimmel’s) 2 ounces Extract of trefle 2 drachms

To 12 drachms of this mixture add:

Neroli 1 drachm Vanillin 1/2 drachm Alcohol to 3 ounces

Sufficient for 25 pounds. {244}

V.—Talcum 8 ounces Starch 8 ounces Oil of neroli 10 drops Oil of ylang-ylang 5 drops

VI.—Talcum 12 ounces Starch 4 ounces Orris root 2 ounces Oil of bergamot 12 drops

VII.—Talcum 14 ounces Starch 2 ounces Lanolin 1/2 ounce Oil of rose 10 drops Oil of neroli 5 drops

«TOILET VINEGARS:»

«Pumillo Toilet Vinegar.»—

Alcohol, 80 per cent 1,600 parts Vinegar, 10 per cent 840 parts Oil of pinu spumillo 44 parts Oil of lavender 4 parts Oil of lemon 2 parts Oil of bergamot 2 parts

Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the vinegar, let stand for a week and filter.

«Vinaigre Rouge.»—

Acetic acid 24 parts Alum 3 parts Peru balsam 1 part Carmine, No. 40 12 parts Ammonia water 6 parts Rose water, distilled 575 parts Alcohol 1,250 parts

Dissolve the balsam of Peru in the alcohol, and the alum in the rose water. Mix the two solutions, add the acetic acid, and let stand overnight. Dissolve the carmine in the ammonia water and add to mixture. Shake thoroughly, let stand for a few minutes, then decant.

«TOILET WATERS:»

«“Beauty Water.”»—

Fresh egg albumen 500 parts Alcohol 125 parts Lemon oil 2 parts Lavender oil 2 parts Oil of thyme 2 parts

Mix the ingredients well together. When first mixed the liquid becomes flocculent, but after standing for 2 or 3 days clears up—sometimes becomes perfectly clear, and may be decanted. It forms a light, amber-colored liquid that remains clear for months.

At night, before retiring, pour about a teaspoonful of the water in the palm of the hand, and rub it over the face and neck, letting it dry on. In the morning, about an hour before the bath, repeat the operation, also letting the liquid dry on the skin. The regular use of this preparation for 4 weeks will give the skin an extraordinary fineness, clearness, and freshness.

«Rottmanner’s Beauty Water.»—Koller says that this preparation consists of 1 part of camphor, 5 parts of milk of sulphur, and 50 parts of rose water.

«Birch Waters.»—Birch water, which has many cosmetic applications, especially as a hair wash, or an ingredient in hair washes, may be prepared as follows:

I.—Alcohol, 96 per cent 3,500 parts
Water 700 parts
Potash soap 200 parts
Glycerine 150 parts
Oil of birch buds 50 parts
Essence of spring flowers 100 parts
Chlorophyll, quantity sufficient to color.

Mix the water with 700 parts of the alcohol, and in the mixture dissolve the soap. Add the essence of spring flowers and birch oil to the remainder of the alcohol, mix well, and to the mixture add, little by little, and with constant agitation, the soap mixture. Finally, add the glycerine, mix thoroughly, and set aside for 8 days, filter and color the filtrate with chlorophyll, to which is added a little tincture of saffron. To use, add an equal volume of water to produce a lather.

II.—Alcohol, 96 per cent 2,000 parts
Water 500 parts
Tincture of cantharides 25 parts
Salicylic acid 25 parts
Glycerine 100 parts
Oil of birch buds 40 parts
Bergamot oil 30 parts
Geranium oil 5 parts

Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the acid and tincture of cantharides; mix the water and glycerine and add, and, finally, color as before.

III.—Alcohol 30,000 parts
Birch juice 3,000 parts
Glycerine 1,000 parts
Bergamot oil 90 parts
Vanillin 10 parts
Geranium oil 50 parts
Water 14,000 parts

IV.—Alcohol 40,000 parts
Oil of birch 150 parts
Bergamot oil 100 parts
Lemon oil 50 parts {245}
Palmarosa oil 100 parts
Glycerine 2,000 parts
Borax 150 parts
Water 20,000 parts

«Violet Ammonia Water.»—Most preparations of this character consist of either coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate, with or without the addition of ammonia water, or of a coarsely powdered mixture, which slowly evolves the odor of ammonia, the whole being perfumed by the addition of volatile oil, pomade essences, or handkerchief extract. The following are typical formulas:

I.—Moisten coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate, contained in a suitable bottle, with a mixture of concentrated tincture of orris root, 2 1/2 ounces; aromatic spirit of ammonia, 1 drachm; violet extract, 3 drachms.

II.—Fill suitable bottles with coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate and add to the salt as much of the following solution as it will absorb: Oil of orris, 5 minims; oil of lavender flowers, 10 minims; violet extract, 30 minims; stronger water of ammonia, 2 fluidounces.

III.—The following is a formula for a liquid preparation: Extract violet, 8 fluidrachms; extract cassia, 8 fluidrachms; spirit of rose, 4 fluidrachms; tincture of orris, 4 fluidrachms; cologne spirit, 1 pint; spirit of ammonia, 1 ounce. Spirit of ionone may be used instead of extract of violet.

«Violet Witch-Hazel.»—

Spirit of ionone 1/2 drachm Rose water 6 ounces Distilled extract of witch-hazel enough to make 16 ounces

«Cotton»

«BLEACHING OF COTTON:»

I.—Bleaching by Steaming.—The singed and washed cotton goods are passed through hydrochloric acid of 2° Bé. Leave them in heaps during 1 hour, wash, pass through sodium hypochlorite of 10° Bé. diluted with 10 times the volume of water. Let the pieces lie in heaps for 1 hour, wash, pass through caustic soda lye of 38° Bé. diluted with 8 times its volume of water, steam, put again through sodium chloride, wash, acidulate slightly with hydrochloric acid, wash and dry. Should the whiteness not be sufficient, repeat the operations.

II.—Bleaching with Calcium Sulphite.—The cotton goods are impregnated with 1 part, by weight, of water, 1 part of caustic lime, and 1/2 part of bisulphite of 40° Bé.; next steamed during 1–2 hours at a pressure of 1/2 atmosphere, washed, acidulated, washed and dried. The result is as white a fabric as by the old method with caustic lime, soda, and calcium chloride. The bisulphite may also be replaced by calcium hydrosulphite, and, instead of steaming, the fabric may be boiled for several hours with calcium sulphite.

III.—Bleaching of Vegetable Fibers with Hydrogen Peroxide.—Pass the pieces through a solution containing caustic soda, soap, hydrogen peroxide, and burnt magnesia. The pieces are piled in heaps on carriages; the latter are shoved into the well-known apparatus of Mather & Platt (kier), and the liquid is pumped on for 6 hours, at a pressure of 2/3 atmosphere. Next wash, acidulate, wash and dry. The bleaching may also be done on an ordinary reeling vat. For 5 pieces are needed about 1,000 parts, by weight, of water; 10 parts, by weight, of solid caustic soda; 1 part of burnt magnesia; 30 parts, by weight, of hydrogen peroxide. After 3–4 hours’ boiling, wash, acidulate, wash and dry. The bleaching may also be performed by passing through barium peroxide, then through sulphuric acid or hydrochloric acid, and next through soda lye. It is practicable also to commence with the latter and finally give a treatment with hydrogen peroxide.

The whiteness obtained by the above process is handsomer than that produced by the old method with hypochlorites, and the fabric is weakened to a less extent.

«TESTS FOR COTTON.»

I.—Cotton, when freed from extraneous matter by boiling with potash, and afterwards with hydrochloric acid, yields pure cellulose or absorbent cotton, which, according to the U. S. P., is soluble in copper ammonium sulphate solution. The B. P. is more specific and states that cotton is soluble in a concentrated solution of copper ammonium sulphate. The standard test solution (B. P.) is made by dissolving 10 parts of copper sulphate in 160 parts of distilled water, and cautiously adding solution of ammonia to the liquid until the precipitate first formed is nearly dissolved. The product is then filtered and the filtrate made up to 200 parts with distilled {246} water. The concentrated solution is prepared by using a smaller quantity of distilled water.

II.—Schweitzer’s reagent for textile fibers and cellulose is made by dissolving 10 parts of copper sulphate in 100 parts of water and adding a solution of 5 parts of potassium hydrate in 50 parts of water; then wash the precipitate and dissolve in 20 per cent ammonia until saturated. This solution dissolves cotton, linen, and silk, but not wool. The reagent is said to be especially useful in microscopy, as it rapidly dissolves cellulose, but has no action on lignin.

III.—Jandrier’s Test for Cotton in Woolen Fabrics.—Wash the sample of fabric and treat with sulphuric acid (20 Bé.) for half an hour on the water bath. To 100 to 200 parts of this solution add 1 part resorcin, and overlay on concentrated sulphuric acid free from nitrous products. The heat developed is sufficient to give a color at the contact point of the liquids, but intensity of color may be increased by slightly heating. If the product resulting from treating the cotton is made up 1 in 1,000, resorcin will give an orange color; alphanaphtol a purple; gallic acid a green gradually becoming violet down in the acid; hydroquinone or pyrogallol a brown; morphine or codeine, a lavender; thymol or menthol a pink. Cotton may be detected in colored goods, using boneblack to decolorize the solution, if necessary.

IV.—Overbeck’s test for cotton in woolen consists in soaking the fabric in an aqueous solution of alloxantine (1 in 10), and after drying expose to ammonia vapor and rinse in water. Woolen material is colored crimson, cotton remains blue.

V.—Liebermann’s Test.—Dye the fabric for half an hour in fuchsine solution rendered light yellow by caustic soda solution and then washed with water—silk is colored dark red; wool, light red; flax, pink; and cotton remains colorless.

To Distinguish Cotton from Linen.—Take a sample about an inch and a half square of the cloth to be tested and plunge it into a tepid alcoholic solution of cyanine. After the coloring matter has been absorbed by the fiber, rinse it in water and then plunge into dilute sulphuric acid. If it is of cotton the sample will be almost completely bleached, while linen preserves the blue color almost unchanged. If the sample be then plunged in ammonia, the blue will be strongly reinforced.

«Aromatic Cotton.»—Aromatic cotton is produced as follows: Mix camphor, 5 parts; pine-leaf oil, 5 parts; clove oil, 5 parts; spirit of wine (90 per cent), 80 parts; and distribute evenly on cotton, 500 parts, by means of an atomizer. The cotton is left pressed together in a tightly closed tin vessel for a few days.

«Cotton Degreasing.»—Cotton waste, in a greasy condition, is placed in an acid-proof apparatus, where it is simultaneously freed from grease, etc., and prepared for bleaching by the following process, which is performed without the waste being removed from the apparatus: (1) treatment with a solvent, such as benzine; (2) steaming, for the purpose of vaporizing and expelling from the cotton waste the solvent still remaining in it after as much as possible of this has been recovered by draining; (3) treatment with a mineral acid; (4) boiling with an alkali lye; (5) washing with water.

«COTTONSEED HULLS AS STOCK FOOD.»

Cottonseed hulls or other material containing fiber difficult of digestion are thoroughly mixed with about 5 per cent of their weight of hydrochloric acid (specific gravity, 1.16), and heated in a closed vessel, provided with a stirrer, to a temperature of 212° to 300° F. The amount of acid to be added depends on the material employed and on the duration of the heating. By heating for 30 minutes the above percentage of acid is required, but the quantity may be reduced if the heating is prolonged. After heating, the substance is ground and at the same time mixed with some basic substances such as sodium carbonate, chalk, cottonseed kernel meal, etc., to neutralize the acid. During the heating, the acid vapors coming from the mixture may be led into a second quantity of material contained in a separate vessel, air being drawn through both vessels to facilitate the removal of the acid vapors.

COTTONSEED OIL: See Oil.

COTTONSEED OIL IN FOOD, TESTS FOR: See Foods.

COTTONSEED OIL IN LARD, DETECTION OF: See Foods and Lard.

COUGH CANDY: See Confectionery.

COUGH MIXTURES FOR CATTLE: See Veterinary Formulas. {247}

COUGH MIXTURES AND REMEDIES: See Cold and Cough Mixtures.

«Court Plasters»

(See also Plasters.)

«Liquid Court Plaster.»—I.—If soluble guncotton is dissolved in acetone in the proportion of about 1 part, by weight, of the former to 35 or 40 parts, by volume, of the latter, and half a part each of castor oil and glycerine be added, a colorless, elastic, and flexible film will form on the skin wherever it is applied. Unlike ordinary collodion it will not be likely to dry and peel off. If tinted very slightly with alkanet and saffron it can be made to assume the color of the skin so that when applied it is scarcely observable. A mixture of warm solution of sodium silicate and casein, about 9 parts of the former to 1 part of the latter, gelatinizes and forms a sort of liquid court plaster.

II.—In order to make liquid court plaster flexible, collodion, U. S. P., is the best liquid that can possibly be recommended. It may be made by weighing successively into a tarred bottle:

Collodion 4 av. ounces Canada turpentine 95 grains Castor oil 57 grains

Before applying, the skin should be perfectly dry; each application or layer should be permitted to harden. Three or four coats are usually sufficient.

III.—Procure an ounce bottle and fill it three-fourths full of flexible collodion, and fill up with ether. Apply to cuts, bruises, etc., and it protects them and will not wash off. If the ether evaporates, leaving it too thick for use, have more ether put in to liquefy it. It is a good thing to have in the house and in the tool chest.

COW DISEASES AND THEIR REMEDIES: See Veterinary Formulas.

CRAYONS: See Pencils.

«CRAYONS FOR GRAINING AND MARBLING.»

Heat 4 parts of water and 1 part of white wax over a fire until the wax has completely dissolved. Stir in 1 part of purified potash. When an intimate combination has taken place, allow to cool and add a proportionate quantity of gum arabic. With this mixture the desired colors are ground thick enough so that they can be conveniently rolled into a pencil with chalk. The desired shades must be composed on the grinding slab as they are wanted, and must not be simply left in their natural tone. Use, for instance, umber, Vandyke brown, and white lead for oak; umber alone would be too dark for walnut use. All the earth colors can be conveniently worked up. It is best to prepare 2 or 3 crayons of each set, mixing the first a little lighter by the addition of white lead and leaving the others a little darker. The pencils should be kept in a dry place and are more suitable for graining and marbling than brushes, since they can be used with either oil or water.

CRAYONS FOR WRITING ON GLASS: See Etching, and Glass.

«Cream»

(See also Milk.)

«Whipped Cream.»—There are many ways to whip cream. The following is very highly indorsed: Keep the cream on ice until ready to whip. Take 2 earthen vessels about 6 inches in diameter. Into 1 bowl put 1 pint of rich sweet cream, 2 teaspoonfuls powdered sugar, and 5 drops of best vanilla extract. Add the white of 1 egg and beat with large egg beater or use whipping apparatus until 2 inches of froth has formed; skim off the froth into the other vessel and so proceed whipping and skimming until all the cream in the first vessel has been exhausted. The whipped cream will stand up all day and should be let stand in the vessel on ice.

Special machines have been constructed for whipping cream, but most dispensers prepare it with an ordinary egg beater. Genuine whipped cream is nothing other than pure cream into which air has been forced by the action of the different apparatus manufactured for the purpose; care must, however, be exercised in order that butter is not produced instead of whipped cream. To avoid this the temperature of the cream must be kept at a low degree and the whipping must not be too violent or prolonged; hence the following rules must be observed in order to produce the desired result: {248}

1. Secure pure cream and as fresh as possible.

2. Surround the bowl in which the cream is being whipped with cracked ice, and perform the operation in a cool place.

3. As rapidly as the whipped cream arises, skim it off and place it in another bowl, likewise surrounded with ice.

4. Do not whip the cream too long or too violently.

5. The downward motion of the beater should be more forcible than the upward, as the first has a tendency to force the air into the cream, while the second, on the contrary, tends to expel it.

6. A little powdered sugar should be added to the cream after it is whipped, in order to sweeten it.

7. Make whipped cream in small quantities and keep it on ice.

I.—Cummins’s Whipped Cream.—Place 12 ounces of rich cream on the ice for about 1 hour; then with a whipper beat to a consistency that will withstand its own weight.

II.—Eberle’s Whipped Cream.—Take a pint of fresh, sweet cream, which has been chilled by being placed on the ice, add to it a heaping tablespoonful of powdered sugar and 2 ounces of a solution of gelatin (a spoonful dissolved in 2 ounces of water), whip slowly for a minute or two until a heavy froth gathers on top. Skim off the dense froth, and put in container for counter use; continue this until you have frothed all that is possible.

III.—Foy’s Whipped Cream.—Use only pure cream; have it ice cold, and in a convenient dish for whipping with a wire whipper. A clear, easy, quick, and convenient way is to use a beater. Fill about one-half full of cream, and beat vigorously for 2 or 3 minutes; a little powdered sugar may be added before beating. The cream may be left in the beater, and placed on ice.

IV.—American Soda Fountain Company’s Whipped Cream.—Take 2 earthen bowls and 2 tin pans, each 6 or 8 inches greater in diameter than the bowls; place a bowl in each pan, surround it with broken ice, put the cream to be whipped in 1 bowl, and whip it with a whipped cream churn. The cream should be pure and rich, and neither sugar nor gelatin should be added to it. As the whipped cream rises and fills the bowl, remove the churn, and skim off the whipped cream into the other bowl.

The philosophy of the process is that the churn drives air into the cream, and blows an infinity of tiny bubbles, which forms the whipped cream; therefore, in churning, raise the dasher gently and slowly, and bring it down quickly and forcibly. When the second bowl is full of whipped cream, pour off the liquid cream, which has settled to the bottom, into the first bowl, and whip it again. Keep the whipped cream on ice.

The addition of an even teaspoonful of salt to 1 quart of sweet cream, before whipping, will make it whip up very readily and stiff, and stand up much longer and better.

«CRESOL EMULSION.»

One of the best starting points for the preparation is the “creosote” obtained from blast furnaces, which is rich in cresols and contains comparatively little phenols. The proportions used are: Creosote, 30 parts; soft soap, 10 parts; and solution of soda (10 per cent), 30 parts. Boil the ingredients together for an hour, then place aside to settle. The dark fluid is afterwards drained from any oily portion floating upon the top.

CREAM, COLD: See Cosmetics.

CREAMS FOR THE FACE AND SKIN: See Cosmetics.

CREOSOTE SOAP: See Soap.

CROCKERY: See Ceramics.

CROCKERY CEMENTS: See Adhesives.

«CROCUS.»

The substance known as “crocus,” which is so exceedingly useful as a polishing medium for steel, etc., may be very generally obtained in the cinders produced from coal containing iron. It will be easily recognized by its rusty color, and should be collected and reduced to a powder for future use. Steel burnishers may be brought to a high state of polish with this substance by rubbing them upon a buff made of soldiers’ belt or hard wood. After this operation, the burnisher should be rubbed on a second buff charged with jewelers’ rouge.

CRYSTAL CEMENTS FOR REUNITING BROKEN PIECES: See Adhesives, under Cements. {249}

CRYSTALLIZATION, ORNAMENTAL: See Gardens, Chemical.

CUCUMBER ESSENCE: See Essences and Extracts.

CUCUMBER JELLY, JUICE, AND MILK: See Cosmetics.

CURAÇOA CORDIAL: See Wines and Liquors.

CURTAINS, COLORING OF: See Laundry Preparations.

CURRY POWDER: See Condiments.

«CUSTARD POWDER:»

Corn flour 7 pounds Arrowroot 8 pounds Oil of almond 20 drops Oil of nutmegs 10 drops Tincture of saffron to color.

Mix the tincture with a little of the mixed flours; then add the essential oils and make into a paste; dry this until it can be reduced to a powder, and then mix all the ingredients by sifting several times through a fine hair sieve.

CUTLERY CEMENTS: See Adhesives.

CYLINDER OIL: See Lubricants.

CYMBAL METAL: See Alloys.

«Damaskeening»

Damaskeening, practiced from most ancient times, consists in ornamentally inlaying one metal with another, followed usually by polishing. Generally gold or silver is employed for inlaying. The article to be decorated by damaskeening is usually of iron (steel) or copper; in Oriental (especially Japanese) work, also frequently of bronze, which has been blackened, or, at least, darkened, so that the damaskeening is effectively set off from the ground. If the design consists of lines, the grooves are dug out with the graver in such a manner that they are wider at the bottom, so as to hold the metal forced in. Next, the gold or silver pieces suitably formed are laid on top and hammered in so as to fill up the opening. Finally the surface is gone over again, so that the surface of the inlay is perfectly even with the rest. If the inlays, however, are not in the form of lines, but are composed of larger pieces of certain outlines, they are sometimes allowed to project beyond the surface of the metal decorated. At times there are inlays again in the raised portions of another metal; thus, Japanese bronze articles often contain figures of raised gold inlaid with silver.

Owing to the high value which damaskeening imparts to articles artistically decorated, many attempts have been made to obtain similar effects in a cheaper manner. One is electro-etching, described further on. Another process for the wholesale manufacture of objects closely resembling damaskeened work is the following: By means of a steel punch, on which the decorations to be produced project in relief, the designs are stamped by means of a drop hammer or a stamping press into gold plated or silver plated sheet metal on the side which is to show the damaskeening, finally grinding off the surface, so that the sunken portions are again level. Naturally, the stamped portion, as long as the depth of the stamping is at least equal to the thickness of the precious metal on top, will appear inlaid.

It is believed that much of the early damaskeening was done by welding together iron and either a steel or an impure or alloyed iron, and treating the surface with a corroding acid that affected the steel or alloy without changing the iron.

The variety or damaskeening known as koftgari or kuft-work, practiced in India, was produced by rough-etching a metallic surface and laying on gold-leaf, which was imbedded so that it adhered only to the etched parts of the design.

«Damaskeening by Electrolysis.»—Damaskeening of metallic plates may be done by electrolysis. A copper plate is covered with an isolating layer of feeble thickness, such as wax, and the desired design is scratched in it by the use of a pointed tool. The plate is suspended in a bath of sulphate of copper, connecting it with the positive pole of a battery, while a second copper plate is connected with the negative pole. The current etches grooves wherever the wax has been removed. When enough has {250} been eaten away, remove the plate from the bath, cleanse it with a little hydrochloric acid to remove any traces of oxide of copper which might appear on the lines of the design; then wash it in plenty of water and place it in a bath of silver or nickel, connecting it now with the negative pole, the positive pole being represented by a leaf of platinum. After a certain time the hollows are completely filled with a deposit of silver or nickel, and it only remains to polish the plate, which has the appearance of a piece damaskeened by hand.

«Damaskeening on Enamel Dials.»—Dip the dial into molten yellow wax, trace on the dial the designs desired, penetrating down to the enamel. Dip the dial in a fluorhydric acid a sufficient length of time that it may eat to the desired depth. Next, wash in several waters, remove the wax by means of turpentine, i. e., leave the piece covered with wax immersed in essence of turpentine. By filling up the hollows thus obtained with enamel very pretty effects are produced.

DANDRUFF CURE: See Hair Preparations.

«DECALCOMANIA PROCESSES:»

See also Chromos, Copying Processes, and Transfer Processes.

The decalcomania process of transferring pictures requires that the print (usually in colors) be made on a specially prepared paper. Prints made on decalcomania paper may be transferred in the reverse to china ware, wood, celluloid, metal, or any hard smooth surface, and being varnished after transfer (or burnt in, in the case of pottery) acquire a fair degree of permanence. The original print is destroyed by the transfer.

«Applying Decalcomania Pictures on Ceramic Products under a Glaze.»—A biscuit-baked object is first coated with a mixture of alcohol, shellac, varnish, and liquid glue. Then the prepared picture print is transferred on to this adhesive layer in the customary manner. The glaze, however, does not adhere to this coating and would, therefore, not cover the picture when fused on. To attain this, the layer bearing the transfer picture, as well as the latter, are simultaneously coated with a dextrin solution of about 10 per cent. When this dextrin coating is dry, the picture is glazed. The mixing proportions of the two solutions employed, as well as of the adhesive and the dextrin solutions, vary somewhat according to the physical conditions of the porcelain, its porosity, etc. The following may serve for an example: Dissolve 5 parts of shellac or equivalent gum in 25 parts of spirit and emulsify this liquid with 20 parts of varnish and 8 parts of liquid glue. After drying, the glaze is put on and the ware thus prepared is placed in the grate fire.