Chapter V: Sea Routes in the Western Mediterranean (1)

Route Page
15. From Gibraltar to Genoa 111
a. Through the Balearic Sea 111
b. Viâ Algiers 117
16. From Gibraltar to Naples 118
17. From (Lisbon) Tangier, and from Gibraltar, to Marseilles 119
18. From Tangier and Cartagena to Oran 123
19. From Marseilles to Oran 126
20. From Marseilles to Algiers, Bougie, Philippeville, and Bona 126
21. From Marseilles to Tunis 128
22. From Algiers to Tunis by Sea 130
23. From Marseilles to Naples 132
24. From Genoa to Naples 134
25. From Genoa to Tunis viâ Leghorn and Cagliari 142
26. From Naples to Tunis viâ Palermo 146
27. From Naples to Syracuse (Malta, Tunis, Tripoli) viâ Messina
and Catania 154
From Messina to Syracuse, 158.

15. From Gibraltar to Genoa.

a. Through the Balearic Sea.

1000 M. STEAMBOATS (see ‘Gibraltar Chronicle’, and comp. pp. 53, 114).
_White Star Line_ (from New York or Boston), two or three times
monthly; _North German Lloyd_ (from Southampton), monthly; _Cunard
Line_ (from New York), occasionally; _Lloyd Sabaudo_ (from S.
America), monthly.

On leaving _Gibraltar_ (p. 52) the steamer enters the open Mediterranean and steers to the E.N.E., generally at an accelerated speed, as far as Cape Palos, owing to the strong current flowing in from the Atlantic (p. 5). Looking back, farther on, we enjoy in clear weather a splendid *View of the Straits, and especially of the coast of Morocco from Cape Spartel to the _Punta de la Almina_ (p. 123), from which peep the white houses of _Ceuta_. The Rîf Mts. (_Jebel Beni Hassan_, p. 123) also remain visible for a time.

The Spanish coast with the _Sierra Bermeja_, the _Sierra de Mijas_, and the _Punta de Calaburras_ (lighthouse) gradually recedes Far away to the left is the bay of _Málaga_. Off _Cape Sacratif_, with its lighthouse, we obtain a grand *View of the _Sierra Nevada_ (p. 49), in front of which rise the almost entirely barren _Sierra de Almijara_, _Sierra Contraviesa_, and _Sierra de Gádor_. Near the _Punta del Sabinal_ (lighthouse) opens the broad semicircular bay of _Almería_; in the foreground rise the bare hills of _Cabo de Gata_ (1683 ft.; lighthouse), with the _Puerto Genovés_ beyond.

Steering now to the N.E., we pass the _Punta de Loma Pelada_, backed by the _Frailes_ (‘monks’), two huge pyramids of rock; then the _Mesa de Roldán_, the bay of _Cartagena_ (p. 125), the _Cabo Tiñoso_, _Cape Palos_, and the island of _Hormiga Grande_, all with lighthouses. Nearing the Balearic Islands, we may descry to the left, in very clear weather, the coast-plain of _Murcia_ and even the distant hills of _Alicante_, as far as _Cabo de la Nao_ and _Mongó_. The vessel now steers round the _Balearic Islands_ (see Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal), on the S.E. side if storms in the Gulf of Lions are expected, but usually through the bay of _Valencia_ and the _Balearic Sea_. In this case we pass close to the island of _Iviza_, which is flanked on the S.W. (in front of the _Atalayasa_; 1559 ft.) by the bold rocky islet of _Vedrá_, and on the W. by the _Bleda Islets_ and _Conejera_ (with a lighthouse). On the N.E. point of Iviza is the lighthouse of _Punta Grosa_. In the foreground, farther on, appear the bold limestone slopes of the island of _Dragonera_, with a lighthouse (1191 ft.) visible for 40 M. round. Beyond it is _Mallorca_, or _Majorca_, the largest of the Balearic Islands, whose barren mountains, culminating in the _Puig Mayor_ (4741 ft.) in the centre, are visible to their full extent beyond the little port of _Soller_.

From _Cape Formentor_ (lighthouse), at the N.E. point of Majorca, the steamer proceeds due N.E. to the _Ile du Levant_ or _du Titan_ (lighthouse, visible for nearly 40 M. round), the eastmost of the _Iles d’Hyères_ (p. 133), which flank the coast of Provence. The island of _Porquerolles_ also, the westmost of the group, is visible. In favourable weather the *Voyage through the _Ligurian Sea_ affords delightful views. The steamers vary their course, but usually steer towards Cape Ferrat near Villefranche, past _Cape Camarat_ (lighthouse), the beautiful double bay of _Cannes_ (with the _Iles de Lérins_ opposite to it), and the _Cap d’Antibes_. On a clear day Nice is visible in the distance. We then skirt the _Riviera di Ponente_ (p. 118), passing Ventimiglia, Oneglia, and Albenga, backed by the _Maritime_ and the _Ligurian Alps_, snow-clad in winter and spring. On the picturesque coast between Nice and Bordighera the scenery changes rapidly. After the little bay of _Villefranche_ (_Villafranca_), with _Cape Ferrat_ (lighthouse), come _Beaulieu_, the grey rock village of _Eze_, close under the Grande-Corniche, and _La Turbie_, overtopped by the forts behind. We next sight the rock of _Monaco_, with its cathedral and huge marine museum, while among the houses of the little principality may be seen the less conspicuous casino of _Monte Carlo_. Beyond the olive-clad _Cape Martin_ appears the bay of _Mentone_, with its superb circus of mountains, then _Cape Mórtola_, the Italian frontier-town of _Ventimiglia_, and, beyond the ravine of the _Roja_, the little town of _Bordighera_, with its cape and its dense olive and palm groves. Next come _Ospedaletti_, overlooked by the loftily-situated little town of _Coldirodi_, and _San Remo_, on a broad bay bounded by _Capo Nero_ and _Capo Verde_. The coast is now less attractive till we are off _Porto Maurizio_, a provincial capital picturesquely situated on a headland, and approach _Oneglia_.

Near _Cape Berta_ we gradually leave the coast, pass _Cape Mele_, with its lighthouse (742 ft.) and Marconi station for wireless telegraphy, and steer across the *_Gulf of Genoa_. On the left lie _Laigueglia_, _Alassio_, and, beyond the fissured island of _Gallinaria_, the little town of _Albenga_. Next, on a semicircular coast-plain, lie the villages of _Loano_ and _Finale Marina_, and a little beyond them rises the _Capo di Noli_. Beyond _Cape Vado_ we overlook the bay of the industrial seaport of _Savona_, as far as the headland of _Portofino_ (p. 134). In the background rise the _Apennines_ and the _Apuan Alps_ (p. 134), snow-capped in winter.

Steering through the _Avamporto_ and the _Porto Nuovo_, we obtain a superb *View of _Genoa_, rising in a semicircle on the hill-side.

=Genoa.=—ARRIVAL BY SEA. The passenger-steamers land at the _Ponte
Federico Guglielmo_ (Pl. A, B, 3; with custom-house, post, telegraph,
and railway offices) in the _Porto_ or inner harbour. Failing room at
that pier, they anchor near it (landing by boat, with luggage, 1 fr.;
embarkation 30, at night 50 c.), or they are berthed at the _Ponte
Andrea Doria_ (Pl. A, 3).—At the custom-house examination the facchino
of the dogana expects 20–30 c.

=Railway Stations.= =1.= _Stazione Piazza Principe_ (Pl. B, 2; Rail.
Restaur., déj. 2–3, D. 3–4 fr.), in the Piazza Acquaverde, the chief
station for all trains, where cabs (p. 114) and omnibuses are in
waiting.—=2.= _Stazione di Brignole_ or _Orientale_ (Pl. H, I, 6), the
E. station, Piazza Giuseppe Verdi, a subsidiary station for Pisa,
Florence, Rome, etc.—Railway-tickets may be obtained also of the
_Fratelli Gondrand_, Via Venti Settembre 35, and of _Thos. Cook & Son_
(p. 114).

HOTELS (mostly in noisy situations and variously judged). *GRAND-HÔT.
MIRAMARE (Pl. mi; A, 2), Via Pagano Doria, above the principal
station, with terrace, R. from 6, D. 6, omn. 2 fr.; BERTOLINI’S
BRISTOL HOT. (Pl. p; F, 6), Via Venti Settembre 35, R. from 7, D. 7,
omn. 1½ fr.; GR.-HÔT. DE GÊNES (Pl. f; E, 5), R. from 5, D. 6–7, omn.
1 fr.; EDEN PALACE (Pl. b; G, 5), Via Serra 6–8, R. from 6, D. 5–7
fr.; GR.-HÔT. SAVOIE (Pl. s: C, 2), above Piazza Acquaverde, R. from
4, D. 5–6, omn. ½ fr.; GR.-HÔT. ISOTTA (Pl. a; F, 5), Via Roma 5–7, R.
from 5, D. 6, omn. 1½ fr.—HÔT. DE LA VILLE (Pl. d; D, 4), Via Carlo
Alberto, R. from 4, D. 5, omn. 1 fr.; BRITANNIA (Pl. y; C, 2), R. from
3 fr.; MODERN HOT. (Pl. v; F, 6), R. from 4, D. 5, omn. 1 fr.;
CONTINENTAL (Pl. 1; E, 4), R. 4–10, D. 5, omn. 1–1¼ fr.—Less
pretending: HÔT. DE FRANCE (Pl. g; D, 5), R. 3–4, D. 4, omn. 1 fr.;
HOT. SMITH (Pl. e, D, 5; Engl. landlord), R. from 2½, D. 4, omn. 1
fr., good; CENTRAL (Pl. c; F, 5), R. 2–4½ fr.; ROYAL AQUILA (Pl. k; C,
2), near the principal station, R. 3–5, D. 5, omn. ½ fr., good for
passing tourists; IMPÉRIAL (Pl. im; F, 6), R. from 3½ fr.; REGINA (Pl.
q; F, 6).—=Hôtels Garnis.= SPLENDIDE (Pl. x; F, 6), BAVARIA (Pl. z; F,
5), EXCELSIOR (Pl. w; E, 5), R. in all these from 3 or 4 fr.

=Cafés.= _Roma_, Via Roma 15; _Milano_, Galleria Mazzini; both are
also restaurants.—=Restaurants= (Italian cookery). _Trattoria del
Teatro Carlo Felice_ (Pl. E, F, 5), good; _Cairo_, Via Venti Settembre
36; _Ristorante della Posta_, Galleria Mazzini, moderate, often
crowded.—=Beer.= _Giardino d’Italia_ and _Peyer_, both in Piazza
Corvetto (Pl. F, G, 5); _Gambrinus_, Via San Sebastiano (Pl. F, 5).

=Cabs.= One-horse, per drive (to the E. as far as the Bisagno, to the
W. to the lighthouse) 1, at night 1½ fr.; per hr. 2 or 2½ fr.; each
addit. ½ hr. 1 or 1¼ fr.; to _Nervi_ or _Pegli_ 5, there and back,
with ½ hr. stay, 7½ fr.—With two horses, ½ fr. extra in each
case.—Night is from 9 (in winter from 7) till sunrise.—Small packages
inside cab are free; each trunk 20 c.—MOTOR CABS (taximeter) per drive
of 1200 met. (⅔ M.) 1 fr. 20 c., each addit. 300 met. 20 c.; at night
(10 or 8 to dawn) one-fourth extra. Trunk 25 c.

=Tramways= (6 or 7 a.m. till midnight). The chief lines are: =1.=
_Piazza Principe_ (Pl. B, 2), Piazza Acquaverde (Pl. B, C, 2), Piazza
Zecca (Pl. D, E, 3; funicular to Castellaccio), Piazza Corvetto (Pl.
F, G, 5), and _Piazza Deferrari_ (Pl. E, 6; 10 c.).—=2.= _Piazza
Principe_, Piazza Acquaverde, Via di Circonvallazione a Monte (station
for Castellaccio at San Nicolò, Pl. E, 1), Piazza Manin (Pl. I, 4),
Piazza Corvetto, and _Piazza Deferrari_ (25 c.).—=3.= _Piazza
Caricamento_ (Pl. D, 5), Piazza Principe, Via Milano (Pl. A, 2),
Lighthouse (p. 117), San Pier d’Arena, Sestri Ponente, and _Pegli_ (p.
117; 55 c.).—=4.= _Piazza Raibetta_ (Pl. D, 5), Via di
Circonvallazione a Mare (p. 116), and _Stazione Orientale_ (Pl. H, I,
6; 10 c.).—=5.= _Piazza Deferrari_, Piazza Manin, Via Montaldo (Pl. I,
1), and _Campo Santo_ (p. 117; 15 c.).—=6.= _Piazza Deferrari_, Via
Venti Settembre, Ponte Pila (Pl. H, I, 7), and _Nervi_ (p. 117; every
¼ hr., in 50 min., 45 c.); branch to the _Lido d’Albaro_ (p. 117).

=Post Office= (Pl. F, 5), Galleria Mazzini (new building in the Piazza
Deferrari, Pl. E, 6; see p. 116), open 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.—=Telegraph
Office= (Pl. E, 6), Palazzo Ducale, Piazza Deferrari.

=Steamers.= _Cunard Line_ (C. Figoli, Piazza San Marcellino 6), from
New York, Gibraltar, and Genoa to Trieste; _White Star Line_ (Piazza
Annunziata 18), to Naples, Gibraltar, and New York or Boston;
_Nederland Royal Mail_ (Agenzia Olandese, Piazza Deferrari), from
Southampton to Genoa, Port Said, and Batavia; _North German Lloyd_
(Leupold Bros., Via Garibaldi 5), for Algiers and Gibraltar, for
Naples and Port Said, for Marseilles and Barcelona, for Naples,
Catania, the Piræus, Smyrna, Constantinople, etc.; _Hamburg-American
Line_ (Piazza Annunziata 18), to Naples and New York, also
excursion-boats; _Società Nazionale_ (Via Balbi 40), for Naples and
New York (comp. R. 24); also circular tours to Cagliari, Tunis,
Tripoli, Malta, Syracuse, Messina, Naples, and back to Genoa (RR. 25,
64, 27, 24); also to Palermo, Trapani, and Syracuse; to Palermo,
Messina, the Piræus, Constantinople (Odessa and Batum); to Smyrna and
Constantinople (RR. 27, 80); to Leghorn, Naples, Messina, and
Alexandria (R. 67); to Naples and Port Said (R. 67); _La Veloce_ (Via
Garibaldi 2), to Naples and Teneriffe (for Brazil), and viâ Marseilles
and Barcelona to Teneriffe (Colón); _Italia_ (Via Venti Settembre 34)
to Teneriffe and Buenos Ayres; _Lloyd Italiano_ (Palazzo Doria, Via
Andrea Doria), for Naples and New York (R. 24); _Lloyd Sabaudo_
(Piazza San Siro), for Naples, Palermo, and New York (RR. 24, 26), and
for Tarragona, Gibraltar, and Buenos Ayres; _Compañía Trasatlántica_
(Giovanelli, Via Balbi, Salita Santa Brigida 2), for Barcelona,
Lisbon, and Liverpool, for Port Said and Manila, and for Barcelona,
Málaga, Teneriffe, and Buenos Ayres.

=Bankers.= _Kirby & Le Mesurier_, Via Carlo Felice 7; _Thos. Cook &
Son_, Piazza della Meridiana, cor. of Via Cairóli (Pl. E, 4); _Credito
Italiano_, Via San Luca 4; _Banca Commerciale Italiana_, Piazza Banchi
11 (Pl. D, 5).—MONEY CHANGERS abound near the Borsa.—BOOKSELLER. _A.
Donath_, Via Luccoli 33.

=Consuls.= British Consul-General, _William Keene_, Via Assarotti 11;
vice-consul, _A. Turton_.—U. S. Consul-General, _J. A. Smith_, Via
Venti Settembre 42; vice-consul, _J. W. Dye_.

=Churches.= _English_ (_Church of the Holy Ghost_), Via Goito (Pl. G,
4; services at 8:15 and 11 a.m., occasionally also at 4 p.m.);
_Presbyterian_, Via Peschiera 4 (service at 11 a.m.).

=Sights.= _Museo Chiossone_ (p. 116), daily except Mon., 10–3, adm. 1
fr.; _Palazzo Bianco_ (p. 116), daily, Oct.-March 11–4, April-Sept.
10–4, Sun. and Thurs. ¼ fr., other days ½ fr., free on last Sun. of
each month; _Palazzo Durazzo-Pallavicini_ (see below), daily 11–4, fee
½–1 fr.; _Palazzo Rosso_ (p. 116), free daily, 11–4, except on Tues.,
Sun., and holidays.

_Genoa_, Ital. _Genŏva_, French _Gênes_, a city of 156,000 inhab., was a republic and a great naval power in the middle ages, rivalling Venice, but declined after the 16th cent.; in 1797 it became the capital of Napoleon’s ‘Ligurian Republic’, and since 1815 has belonged to the kingdom of Sardinia which is now merged in that of Italy. Next to Marseilles it is the greatest of Mediterranean seaports. The exports and imports in 1908 amounted to 6.4 million tons, and the tonnage of shipping to 14.4 millions.

From the pier, either the Ponte Federico Guglielmo or the Ponte Andrea Doria (p. 113), we cross the harbour-rails to the _Palazzo Doria_ (Pl. A, B, 2), once presented by the republic to Andrea Doria (1468–1560), the famous admiral of Charles V., and enter the PIAZZA DEL PRINCIPE (Pl. B, 2; tramway, see p. 114), with its handsome bronze monument to the _Marchese Deferrari_, _Duke of Galliera_ (d. 1876), to whose generosity Genoa is partly indebted for its new quays (1877–95).

The Via Andrea Doria leads hence to the E. to the PIAZZA ACQUAVERDE (Pl. B, C, 2), the square in front of the _Railway Station_, where, amid palms, rises a monument to _Columbus_, who was probably born at Genoa in 1451 (d. at Valladolid in 1506).

To the S.E. from this piazza runs a narrow line of streets, the chief artery of traffic, adorned with superb late-Renaissance edifices, built chiefly by _Galeazzo Alessi_ (1512–72), named Via Balbi, Via Cairóli, and Via Garibaldi, and ending at the Piazza Fontane Marose. Several of the palaces are well worth seeing, especially for the sake of their grand staircases.

No. 10, on the right side of the VIA BALBI, is the _Palazzo Reale_ (Pl. C, 3), built after 1650 for the Durazzo family, and purchased in 1817 for the royal house of Sardinia. No. 5, on the left, is the =Palazzo dell’Università= (Pl. D, 2, 3), begun by Bart. Bianco in 1623 as a Jesuit school. The *Court and the staircases are considered the finest in Genoa.

Farther on, to the right, No. 4 is the _Palazzo Balbi Senárega_; No. 1, on the left, is the PALAZZO DURAZZO-PALLAVICINI (Pl. D, 3), both by Bart. Bianco. The picture-gallery in the latter (adm., see above) contains portraits by Rubens and Van Dyck, painted during their visits to Genoa.

We cross the Piazza dell’Annunziata (Pl. D, 3) with the handsome baroque church of that name on the left, and the small Piazza della Zecca (Pl. D, E, 3; funicular to Castellaccio, p. 117), and then follow the Via Cairóli (Pl. D, E, 4) to the—

*VIA GARIBALDI (Pl. E, 4), which is flanked with numerous palaces. No. 13, on the left, is the =Palazzo Bianco=; No. 18, on the right, the =Palazzo Rosso=; both once belonged to the _Brignole-Sale_ family, but were bequeathed to the city by the Marchesa Brignole-Sale (d. 1889), widow of the Duca di Galliera (p. 115), and converted into the two galleries named Brignole-Sale (adm., see p. 115). Most of the other palaces were designed by Gal. Alessi.

From the Piazza Fontane Marose (Pl. F, 4, 5) the short Via Carlo Felice leads to the S.W. to the PIAZZA DEFERRARI (Pl. E, 5, 6), the centre of the city and focus of most of the tramway-lines (p. 114). The ACCADÉMIA DI BELLE ARTI (Pl. E, F, 6), on the E. side of the Piazza, contains the valuable _Museo Chiossone_ (adm., see p. 115), a collection of Japanese and Chinese works of art.

The busy VIA ROMA (Pl. F, 5) leads to the N.E. from the Piazza
Deferrari, past (right) the _Galleria Mazzini_, to the Piazza Corvetto
(Pl. F, G, 5), adjoining which, on the left, on an old bastion is the
_Villetta Dinegro_ (Pl. F, 4; 242 ft.; fine views), a beautiful public
park.

From the S.E. side of the Piazza Deferrari, where the new buildings of
the _Exchange_ (Borsa) and the _Post Office_ are in progress (Pl. E,
F, 6), runs the broad new VIA VENTI SETTEMBRE (Pl. F-H, 6, 7), the
favourite promenade of the citizens, leading to the _Bisagno Valley_
and the _Stazione Orientate_ (p. 113). Immediately before we reach the
street-viaduct we may turn to the right, cross the Piazza Ponticello
(Pl. F, 6, 7), and ascend the Via Fieschi to *_Santa Maria di
Carignano_ (Pl. E, 8; 172 ft.), built by Gal. Alessi. The gallery of
the dome (249 steps; sacristan 25 c.) is a splendid point of view. The
Via Nino Bixio and Via Corsica (Pl. E, F, 8, 9) lead thence to the—

*=Via di Circonvallazione a Mare=, skirting the coast on the site of
the old town-ramparts, named Via Odone and Corso Aurelio Saffi (Pl.
E-H, 9, 10; tramway No. 4, see p. 114).

From the S.W. angle of the Piazza Deferrari the short Via Sellai leads to the PIAZZA UMBERTO PRIMO (Pl. E, 6). On its N. side rises the old _Palazzo Ducale_, or palace of the doges (telegraph-office), approached by a handsome flight of steps. On the S.E. side is the ornate Jesuit church of _Sant’ Ambrogio_, containing a Presentation in the Temple and the Miracles of St. Ignatius by _Rubens_.

From the Piazza Umberto Primo the busy VIA SAN LORENZO leads to the N.W., past the =Cathedral= (Pl. E, 5, 6; _San Lorenzo_), dating from the 12–17th cent. (in the left aisle the fine early-Renaissance chapel of San Giovanni Battista), back to the—

HARBOUR. Following the tramway to the right to the Piazza Raibetta, we observe on the left, between that piazza and the Piazza Caricamento, the Gothic _Palazzo di San Giorgio_, once the seat of the great merchants’ bank of that name. Beyond the Piazza Caricamento the noisy Via Carlo Alberto (Pl. D, C, 4–2) leads to the N. past the _Darsena_, once the naval harbour, to the Piazza Principe and to the piers, affording a glimpse at the harbour traffic.

* * * * *

From the Piazza della Zecca (p. 116) a FUNICULAR TRAMWAY (50 c.) ascends every 10 min. to _San Nicolò_ (Pl. E, 1; change cars) and *=Castellaccio=, loftily situated. At the terminus (about 1025 ft.; Ristorante Beregardo, déj. 2½, D. 4 fr., commended) there is a splendid view of the Bisagno Valley with the Campo Santo (see below). About ½ M. to the N.W. rises the old fort of _Castellaccio_ (1254 ft.), which commands an admirable survey of Genoa and the coast from Savona (p. 113) to the headland of Portofino (p. 134).

On the rocky _Capo del Faro_, between Genoa and San Pier d’Arena, rises the _Lanterna_, a great =Lighthouse=, 230 ft. high, from the foot of which we obtain another extensive *View. Tramway as far as the tunnel (No. 3; p. 114).

From the Piazza Deferrari a tramway (No. 5) leads by the Piazza Manin (Pl. I, 4) to the N.E. to the =Campo Santo= or _Cimitero di Staglieno_; which rises above the Val Bisagno on the N. bank.—We may take the tramway or a motor-omnibus also to the _Lido d’Albáro_, a popular resort and sea-bathing place below the road to Sturla and Nervi.

Favourite excursions from Genoa are (tramways Nos. 6 and 3) to
=Nervi=, 7½ M. to the E., on the Pisa line, and to =Pegli=, 6¼ M. to
the W., on the Ventimiglia line. Nervi has a beautiful marine parade,
and at Pegli is the _Villa Pallavicini_. (The entrance of the villa is
immediately to the left of the exit from the rail. station; adm. on
week-days except Frid. and festivals, 10–3; on Sun. and holidays 9–2;
fee 1 fr.)—A superb view is obtained from the =Portofino-Kulm= (1477
ft.; Hôt.-Restaur., déj. 5, D. 7 fr.), on the Monte di Portofino (p.
134). Motor-omn. direct from Genoa, Piazza Deferrari; also 4 times
daily from Recco station, 13 M. to the E., on the Pisa line.

See also _Baedeker’s Northern Italy_.

b. Viâ Algiers.

1086 M. _North German Lloyd_ on alternate Saturdays, in 3 days (to
Algiers in 25 hrs., fare 66 or 44 marks; thence to Genoa 33 hrs., fare
77 or 55 marks). The _Hamburg-American_ and the _Austrian Lloyd_
steamers sometimes ply between Gibraltar and Algiers. The _Navigation
Mixte_ usually sends steamers from Gibraltar to Oran (hence to Algiers
by railway). Steamers of the _German Levant Line_ and others also are
available as far as Algiers.—Agents at Gibraltar, see p. 53; at
Algiers, p. 219; at Genoa, p. 114. See also ‘Gibraltar Chronicle’.

The vessel steers to the E. from Gibraltar, between the Spanish coast, which remains in sight as far as the _Cabo de Gata_ (comp. R. 15 a), and the flat volcanic island of _Alborán_ (48 ft.), the ancient _Drinaupa_, now belonging to Spain. The distant _Sierra Nevada_ (p. 49) peeps here and there above the horizon.

Off _Cape Ivi_ (lighthouse), beyond the mouth of the _Chélif_ (p. 208), we sight the _Tell Atlas_ (p. 169) on the Algerian coast. We then pass the very prominent _Cape Ténès_ (p. 209) and, beyond _Cherchell_ (p. 244), the massive _Jebel Chenoua_ (p. 242), near which we survey the beautiful _Bay of Castiglione_ (p. 237), backed by the hills of _Sahel_ and extending to _Mont Bouzaréah_ (p. 235).

By _Râs Acrata_ (p. 237) we near the coast, pass the lighthouse on the low _Cape Caxine_ (p. 237) and the picturesque cliffs of _Pointe Pescade_ (p. 237), then _St. Eugène_ (p. 236) and the church of _Notre-Dame d’Afrique_ (p. 236), and enter the harbour of =Algiers= (p. 217).

Leaving Algiers for Genoa the vessel steers to the N.N.E., affording a fine parting view of the _Bay of Algiers_ and the coast as far as _Cape Bengut_ (p. 127). _Corsica_ (p. 143) is visible in clear weather only. We near the _Riviera di Ponente_ off _Porto Maurizio_ (p. 113) and soon enter the harbour of _Genoa_ (comp. p. 113).

16. From Gibraltar to Naples.

1118 M. _Cunard Line_ (from New York) and _White Star_ (from New York
or Boston), each two or three times a month, in 3 days (fare 5_l._
10_s._); _Orient Royal_ (from London), fortnightly; _North German
Lloyd_ (from New York or Southampton), three or four times a month
(120 or 88 marks); _Hamburg-American Line_ (from New York), once or
twice a month.

For _Gibraltar_, and the first part of the voyage, comp. p. 52 and R. 15 a. Astern appears the majestic _Sierra Nevada_ (p. 49).

Steering to the E.N.E., we sometimes see the Algerian coast to the S., from _Cape Ténès_ (p. 209) to the _Bay of Algiers_ (p. 221) and the hills of Great Kabylia (p. 252).

After many hours’ steaming we next sight the uninhabited rocky islet of _Il Toro_, off the S.W. coast of Sardinia, and the _Golfo di Palmas_ (p. 129), between the island of _San Antioco_ and the bold _Cape Teulada_, the ancient _Chersonesus Promontorium_, the southmost point of Sardinia. We pass the _Isola Rossa Bay_ at some distance; then _Cape Spartivento_ (lighthouse), at the S. end of the broad _Bay of Cagliari_ (p. 144), which is only distinguishable in clear weather, and the granitic _Isola dei Cavoli_ (lighthouse), lying off _Cape Carbonara_ (p. 144). The Sardinian coast now rapidly disappears.

The steamer at length nears the _Bocca Grande_, 15 M. in width, the chief entrance to the *_Bay of Naples_ (p. 135), between the islands of _Ischia_ (left) and _Capri_ (right), with _Vesuvius_ in the distance. The S.W. point of Ischia is the picturesque _Punta Imperatore_ (lighthouse). We steer past the S. side of the island, about 3 M. from the _Punta Sant’ Angelo_ and the _Punta San Pancrazio_, then past the island of _Procida_ and the hill of _Posilipo_, into the harbour of _Naples_ (p. 135).

From Naples to _Genoa_, see R. 24.

17. From (_Lisbon_) Tangier, and from Gibraltar, to Marseilles.

FROM LISBON TO TANGIER AND (1150 M.) MARSEILLES (Naples, and Port
Said) there are regular steamboat services (from Tangier or Gibraltar
to Marseilles in 3 days) by the _German East African Line_ (E.
circular tour), once in three weeks, and the _Rotterdam Lloyd_,
fortnightly.—FROM GIBRALTAR TO MARSEILLES there are the _Peninsular &
Oriental_, the _Orient Royal_, and other lines.—Steamboat-agents at
Lisbon, Tangier, Gibraltar, and Marseilles, see pp. 8, 98, 53, 120.

From Lisbon to the Straits of _Gibraltar_, comp. p. 5; _Tangier_, p. 98; _Gibraltar_, p. 52.

The steamer skirts the Spanish coast from Gibraltar to _Iviza_ (p. 112). The direct route to Marseilles is through the _Balearic Sea_ (p. 112) and the _Gulf of Lions_, where storms often prevail; but when the mistral, or N. wind, blows a more westerly course is chosen, past the volcanic _Columbretes_ islets (lighthouse) and along the coast of _Catalonia_.

At length, to the S.E. of the _Rhone Delta_, and flanked with bare limestone hills, we sight the _Bay of Marseilles_, bounded by the _Cap Couronne_, on the left, and the _Cap Croisette_, on the right. We pass the island of _Planier_ (lighthouse) and the islands of _Ratonneau_, _Pomègue_, and _If_, and obtain a fine view of the church of _Notre Dame de la Garde_ (p. 122) overlooking the city. The vessels usually steer through the _Avant-Port Nord_ and the large new _Bassin National_ into the _Bassin de la Gare Maritime_.

=Marseilles.=—ARRIVAL BY SEA. The North German Lloyd and German East
African steamers anchor in the Bassin du Lazaret (Pl. B, 1). Those of
the Générale Transatlantique Co. and Messageries Maritimes start from
the Bassin de la Joliette (Pl. B, 2, 3). Most of the great British
lines (P. & O., Orient Royal, Bibby, British India, etc.) have their
own berths, as to which careful inquiry should be made. Note that most
of these are a long way from the principal railway-station (1–1½ M.).

=Railway Stations.= The _Gare St. Charles_ (Pl. F, 2), the main
station, is the only one for through-passenger traffic. See the French
_Indicateur_ as to trains, several of which run in winter only; others
correspond with the P. & O. and other steamers for Egypt, India,
Australia, etc.

=Hotels= (mostly in noisy situations). *REGINA (Pl. f; D, 3), Place
Sadi-Carnot; *LOUVRE & DE LA PAIX (Pl. a; E, 4), *NOAILLES & MÉTROPOLE
(Pl. c; E, 4), and GRAND (Pl. b; F, 4), all in the Rue Noailles;
BRISTOL (Pl. w; E, 4), Rue Cannebière, new. These five are of the
first class (R. from 4 or 5, B. 1½, déj. 4–4½, D. 5–6
fr.).—PETIT-LOUVRE (Pl. d; E, 4), Rue Cannebière 16; GENÈVE (Pl. m; D,
4), Rue des Templiers 3, R. from 3½, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4 fr., well
spoken of; CASTILLE & LUXEMBOURG (Pl. e; E, 5), Rue St. Ferréol, R.
from 3, B. 1¼, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.; DES PHOCÉENS (Pl. i; E, 4), Rue
Thubaneau 4, R. from 3, B. 1, déj. 3, D. 4 fr., good; CONTINENTAL (Pl.
j; D, 4), Rue Beauvau 6, R. from 2½, B. 1, déj. 3, D. 3½ fr.—Near the
Railway Station: TERMINUS HOTEL (Pl. g; F, 2), R. 5–10 fr.; *RUSSIE &
ANGLETERRE, Boul. d’Athènes 31 (Pl. E, 3), R. from 4, B. 1¼, déj. 3,
D. 4 fr.; BORDEAUX & ORIENT (Pl. k; E, 3), same boulevard, No. 11, R.
from 3, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 3½ fr.—=Hôtels Garnis= (R. 3–4, B. 1½ fr.):
GR. NOUVEL HÔTEL (Pl. u; F, 4), Boul. du Musée 10, good; MODERN HOTEL
(Pl. s; D, 4), Rue Cannebière 50; RICHE ET DU VINGTIÈME SIÈCLE (Pl. v;
E, 4), same street, No. 1.

=Restaurants.= *_La Réserve_, Palace Hotel, Chemin de la Corniche, of
the first class.—*_Isnard_, Hôt. des Phocéens (p. 119); _de Provence_,
Cours Belsunce 12, good.—=Cafés=, best in Rue Cannebière and Rue
Noailles.—_Brasserie de l’Univers_, at the Hotel Bristol (p. 119);
_Strasbourg_, Place de la Bourse 11.

=Cabs= (_voitures de place_, same fares by day or night). In the inner
city, to the Traverse de la Joliette (Pl. B, 2) in the N., and to
Boul. de la Corderie and Boul. Notre Dame in the S.W.: _one-horse
carriage_ (2 seats) per drive, 1½, per hour 2½ fr.; _two-horse carr._
(4 seats) 2 or 3 fr.; trunk 25 c. per drive, 50 c. per hour.—As
overcharges are frequent, the tariff should be asked for.—=Motor Cabs=
(taximeters for 3 pers.), 1 fr. for the first 800 metres (ca. ½ M.),
20 c. each addit. 400 m.; 3 fr. per hour.

=Tramways= (in the town, 10 c.; no transfer tickets). Among the chief
are: from _Place de la Joliette_ (Pl. C, 2) to _Boul. Vauban_ (Pl. D,
7; Notre Dame de la Garde, p. 122); from _Quai de la Joliette_ to the
_Zoological Garden_ (Pl. H, 2; Palais de Longchamp, p. 122); from
_Zoological Garden_ to Boul. Notre Dame (Pl. D, 6, 7; lift to Notre
Dame de la Garde) and _Boul. Vauban_ (Pl. D, 7); from the _Cours St.
Louis_ (Pl. E, 4) viâ the Prado (p. 122), the Corniche (p. 122), and
Endoume, back to the _Cours St. Louis_ (15 c.).

=Transporter Bridge= (_Pont Transbordeur_; Pl. B, 4, 5; p. 121),
between Quai de la Tourette and Boul. du Pharo, in 2 min. (5 c.).

=Steamboat Lines.= _Peninsular & Oriental_ (Estrine & Co., Rue Colbert
18), from London to Gibraltar, Marseilles, and Port Said (RR. 1, 17,
67); _Orient Royal_ (Worms & Co., Rue Grignan 28), from London to
Gibraltar, Marseilles, Naples, and Port Said (RR. 1, 17, 23, 67);
_North German Lloyd_ (W. Carr, Rue Beauvau 16), to Goletta (Tunis) and
Alexandria, to Naples and Alexandria, also to Genoa, Naples, Catania,
the Piræus, Constantinople, etc. (RR. 22, 23, 24, 67, 77, 80); _German
East African_ (W. Carr), from Southampton to Lisbon, Tangier,
Marseilles, Naples, and Port Said (RR. 1, 23, 67); _Bibby_ (Watson &
Parker, Rue Beauvau 8), from Liverpool to Marseilles, Port Said, etc.
(R. 67); _British India_ (G. Budd, Rue Beauvau 8), from Port Said to
Genoa, Marseilles, and London; _Rotterdam Lloyd_ (Ruys & Co., Rue de
la République 29), to Port Said (R. 67); _Messageries Maritimes_
(Place Sadi-Carnot 3), to Naples, Piræus, Constantinople, and Beirut
(RR. 77, 75), also to Constantinople, Odessa, and Batum (RR. 83, 85),
also to Alexandria, Port Said, and Beirut (RR. 67, 72); _Générale
Transatlantique_ (Rue Noailles 15), to Oran and Cartagena (RR. 19,
18), also to Algiers, Bougie, Philippeville, and Bona (R. 20), also to
Tunis and Malta (R. 21, 63), and to Sfax and Susa (RR. 21, 64);
_Transports Maritimes_ (Rue de la République 70), to Gibraltar and
Madeira (R. 3), to Oran (R. 19), to Algiers, Philippeville, and Bona
(R. 20), and to Tunis (Susa; RR. 22, 64); _Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache
Co._, Rue Cannebière 54), to Oran (R. 19), to Tangier viâ Oran (RR.
19, 18), to Algiers and Philippeville (R. 20), to Tunis, Sfax, and
Tripoli (RR. 21, 64), and to Palermo (RR. 21, 26); _Chargeurs Réunis_
(Worms & Co., see above), from Dunkirk to Marseilles, Genoa, and
Naples (for E. Indies, S. America, etc.); _Fraissinet & Co._ (Place de
la Bourse 6), to Ajaccio and Bastia (and Leghorn); _N. Paquet & Co._
(Place Sadi-Carnot 4), to Oran (if required), Tangier, and the
Moroccan ocean-coast (R. 14); _Compañía Mallorquina_, to Palma
(Majorca).

=Post & Telegraph Office.= _Hôtel des Postes_ (Pl. D, 3), Rue Colbert;
branches at the railway-station (p. 119), at the Bourse (Pl. D, E, 4),
etc.

=Tourist Agents.= _Thos. Cook & Son_, Rue Noailles 11 bis; _Lubin_,
Rue des Feuillants 14.—=Banks.= _Banque de France_ (Pl. E, 6), Place
Estrangin-Pastré; _Crédit Lyonnais_, Rue St. Ferréol 25 (Pl. E, 4, 5).

=Consuls.= British Consul-General, _M. C. Gurney_, Rue des Princes 8;
vice-consuls, _T. Broadwood_, _F. J. Hamling_.—U. S. Consul-General,
_A. Gaulin_, Cours Pierre-Puget 10; vice-consul, _P. H. Cram_.

=English Church=, Rue de Bellois 4; services at 10.30 and 3.30.

_Marseilles_, Fr. _Marseille_, the second-largest city in France, with 517,500 inhab., the _Massalia_ of the Greeks and _Massilia_ of the Romans, was founded by Greeks from Phocæa (p. 530) in Asia Minor about 600 B. C., and soon became one of the greatest seaports on the Mediterranean. During the Roman period it vied with Athens as a seat of Greek culture; in the middle ages it belonged to the kingdom of Arelate, and later to the county of Provence, and in 1481 it was at length annexed to France. Being situated at the mouth of the great and time-honoured route through the Rhone Valley to N.W. Europe, it is the most important of French and of all Mediterranean seaports. The total exports and imports are estimated at 2926 million francs, and nearly 17 million tons of shipping enter and clear annually. The city is now almost entirely modern and destitute of historical memorials.

From the _Bassin du Lazaret_ (Pl. B, 1) and _Bassin de la Joliette_ (Pl. B, 2, 3), the southmost of the docks constructed since 1850 to the N.W. of the old town, we follow the Quai de la Joliette to the—

*=Cathedral= (Pl. B, C, 3; _Ste. Marie Majeure_ or _La Major_), situated on a terrace. This is one of the largest and finest churches of the 19th cent.; it was built by _Vaudoyer_, in a mixed Byzantine and Romanesque style, in 1852–93. Adjacent is the _Old Cathedral of St. Lazare_, which is shown by the sacristan of the new church.

From the Place de la Major the Esplanade de la Tourette leads to the S. to the *=Vieux Port= (Pl. C, D, 4, 5), the _Lakydon_ of the Phocæans, a deeply indented creek, where smaller craft only are now berthed. The entrance to it is guarded by the old forts of _Grasse-Tilly_ and _Entrecasteaux_. Just inside the entrance the harbour is crossed by the _Pont Transbordeur_ or _Transporter Bridge_ (p. 120); for the sake of the view we may ascend either to the trolley-way (buffet-restaurant) or to the top of the N. tower (steps up and down 50 c.; lift up 60, up and down 75 c.).

On the N. side of the Quai du Port (Pl. C, D, 4), the scene of motley popular traffic (pickpockets not uncommon), lies the OLD TOWN, with its narrow and dirty streets, inhabited by the lower classes, including numerous Italians of whom the city contains about 100,000. This quay leads past the _Hôtel de Ville_ (Pl. C, 4), an interesting building of the 17th cent., to the E. end of the Vieux Port, where begins the—

*RUE CANNEBIÈRE (Pl. D, E, 4), which for ages has been the chief boast of the city. Here, on the left, is the _Bourse_ (Pl. E, 4), erected by Coste in 1852–60.

This street, prolonged by the Rue Noailles, the Allées de Meilhan, etc., intersects the city from S.W. to N.E., and at the COURS ST. LOUIS (Pl. E, 4), the chief centre of traffic, it is crossed by a straight line of streets running from N.W. to S.E., the Cours Belsunce, Rue de Rome, and Promenade du Prado, to the Rond Point (p. 122), being in all nearly 3 M. long.

The Rue Noailles (Pl. E, 4), from the end of which the Boulevard Dugommier ascends to the railway-station, and the pretty Allées de Meilhan (Pl. F, 4) lead to the modern-Gothic church of _St. Vincent de Paul_ (Pl. F, 3), with its two towers commanding a great part of the city.

A little to the left is the Cours du Chapitre, leading into the Boulevard Longchamp (Pl. G, H, 3, 2), a street ascending steeply to the *=Palais de Longchamp= (Pl. H, 2). This imposing Renaissance edifice was designed by _Espérandieu_, the architect (1862–9). The Ionic colonnade, with a lofty triumphal arch in the centre, where a picturesque cascade has been introduced, is flanked with two wings, the right containing the _Natural History Museum_, and the left the _Museum of Fine Art_ (adm. daily except Mon. and Frid., 8–12 and 2–5 or in winter 9–12 and 2–4; closed 20th–31st Jan. and 20th–31st July).

The groundfloor contains sculptures. In the centre is the principal
hall. The room on the left contains works by the Marseillais master
_Pierre Puget_ (1622–94); in that on the right is a model of the
Monument to the Dead in Père Lachaise at Paris, by _Bartholomé_. The
staircase is adorned with a wall-painting by _Puvis de Chavannes_
(1869).

On the first floor is the picture-gallery. Among the older pictures in
the central room are: 361. _Nattier_, Duchesse de Châteauroux; 788.
_Pietro Perugino_, Holy Family; 914. _Rubens_, Boar-hunt (about 1615).
In the modern department, in the room on the left: 430. _J. Fr.
Millet_, Mother and child (1860).

The main streets of the S. quarter of the town are the Rue de Rome, which begins at the Cours St. Louis (p. 121), and a little to the W. of it the handsome Cours Pierre-Puget (Pl. E, D, 5, 6), ending in the Promenade of that name.

A little to the S., on a bold rock of white limestone, is enthroned the church of *_Notre Dame de la Garde_ (Pl. D, 7; 532 ft.), a great landmark for mariners, where we obtain the finest view of the city and its environs. Lift (Ascenseur; Pl. D, 7) from the Rue Cherchell (up 60, down 30, return 80 c.; on Sun. and before 9 a.m., 40, 20, or 50 c.).

On a fine day the traveller will be repaid by a visit to the *=Chemin de la Corniche= (comp. Pl. A, 6; tramway, p. 120). From Notre Dame de la Garde it may be reached direct in about 40 min. by the Chemin du Roucas-Blanc. This road, partly hewn in the rock, and shadeless, affords fine views. It ends, near the _Château Borély_, which stands in a park and now contains the Musée d’Archéologie, at the—

PROMENADE DU PRADO, a favourite resort of the Marseillais, planted with plane-trees. A gay throng may be seen here on Sunday afternoons and every fine evening. We may return thence to the town by the Rond Point du Prado.

See also _Baedeker’s Southern France_.

From Marseilles to _Naples_, see R. 23.

18. From Tangier and Cartagena to Oran.

FROM TANGIER TO ORAN (301 M.). Mail steamers of the _Navigation
Mixte_, every Wed. afternoon, in 52½ hrs. (fares, without food, 80 and
60 fr.), viâ Melilla and Nemours (returning viâ Beni-Saf, Nemours,
Melilla, and Tetuán); also cargo-steamers viâ Málaga, Melilla, and
Nemours, in 3–4 days, leaving Tangier every second Tuesday (Málaga
Wed.). Also steamers of the _Hungarian Adria_ (fare, without food, 30
fr.). Agents at Tangier, see p. 98; at Málaga, p. 89; at Oran, p. 176.

FROM CARTAGENA TO ORAN (132 M.). _Comp. Générale Transatlantique_
every Tues. in 9 hrs. (fares, without food, 50 and 35 fr.; pier-dues
at Cartagena 3 or 2 fr.; agent J. M. Pelegrin, Plaza de la Aduana 1;
at Oran, p. 176). This is the shortest sea-route to Algiers and is
recommended to those who are bad sailors. Passport necessary.

Steering from _Tangier_ (p. 98) to the E.N.E. through the _Straits of Gibraltar_, the vessel passes _Cape Malabata_ (p. 57), _Cape Alboasa_, and the fine shore of the _Cala Grande_, to which the _Rio de las Ostras_ descends from the _Sierra San Simonito_, a branch of the _Anjera Mts._ (p. 103). In the little bay on the E. side of the _Punta Alcázar_, scarcely visible from the sea, lie the ruins of _Ksar es-Serîr_, a small seaport founded by Yakûb ibn Yûsuf (p. 61), which prospered in the later middle ages, and belonged to the Portuguese from 1448 to 1540.

Off _Cape Ciris_ (p. 5) the steamer nears the abrupt slopes of the _Sierra Bullones_ (p. 103) and then passes the _Isla del Peregil_ (243 ft.), which is overgrown with underwood and contains a large grotto (_Grotta de las Palomas_, visited from Ceuta). Beyond _Cape Leona_ and the _Bay of Benzus_ the region of _Ceuta_ (p. 103) is reached. Fine view of the bay of Algeciras (p. 56) and the rock of Gibraltar to the N.

After passing the bay of Ceuta and the N. and E. headlands of the peninsula of _Almina_ (p. 103), the _Punta Santa Catalina_ (p. 5) and the _Punta de la Almina_ (lighthouse), we obtain an admirable view of the Moroccan coast, extending from the Sierra Bullones (p. 103) to the finely shaped _Jebel Beni Hassan_. In the centre, between _Cabo Negro_ (p. 103) and _Cabo Mazari_, is the deep depression of the plain of _Tetuán_ (p. 102), where the steamers of the Navigation Mixte call on their voyage to Tangier only.

The vessel now steers to the E.S.E. towards Cape Tres Forcas, quite apart from the _Rîf Coast_, a hill-region inhabited by the _Ruâfa_ (sing. _Rîfi_) and still forming part of the Blad es-Siba (p. 96). It lies between the _Wâd Waringa_, the river bounding the province of Tetuán, and Cape Tres Forcas. In the bay of Alhucemas rise the rocky islets of _Peñón de Vélez de la Gomera_ and _Islas de Alhucema_, with two Spanish ‘presidios’. The _Betoya_, the stretch of coast with its numerous creeks between _Cape Quilates_, on the E. side of the Alhucemas Bay, and Cape Tres Forcas, was for centuries the favourite haunt of the Rîf pirates (p. 96).

Beyond the wedge-like _Cape Tres Forcas_, the ancient _Sestiaria Promontorium_ (Arabic _Râs Wark_), jutting out 12½ M. seaward, we sight the long coast-line of the _Bay of Melilla_, into which the steamers from Málaga, passing some 20 M. to the W. of the island of _Alborán_ (p. 117), steer direct.

=Melilla= (Hot. de Asia, Fonda la Africana, both at the harbour and plain), or _Melila_, a town of 9000 inhab., the only Mediterranean port on the Morocco coast besides Ceuta and Tetuán lies most picturesquely on the spurs of _Monte Melila_ or _Caramu_ (3235 ft.), a little to the N. of the marshy, fever-stricken mouth of the _Rio del Oro_. Its site is probably that of the ancient _Rusaddir_ (p. 95), where ended the great Roman military road, about 1430 M. long, which connected Carthage with Mauretania. Melilla is the oldest Spanish possession in Morocco, having been captured in 1496. In 1774 it was unsuccessfully besieged by a Moroccan army, and in 1893 it resisted an attack by the Berbers of the Rîf. Being a free port, it carries on a brisk trade with the coast-towns of the Algerian province of Oran, and many Moroccans from the interior embark here on their way to the harvesting in Algeria. The larger steamers anchor in the roads, which are tolerably sheltered from the W. winds only (landing or embarkation 50 c.). New harbour-works, however, are now under construction. The drinking-water of Melilla is not good.

Melilla consists of the small and tidy new town which has been built near the harbour since 1893 and contains a covered market, the shops of the Spanish-Jewish and Moorish tradesmen, and the promenade, and of the remarkably clean old town, enclosed by lofty walls, and occupying the nearly square plateau of a rocky headland. From projecting parts of the town-wall a fine view is obtained of the _Fort Rosario_, which is separated from the old town by the small _Galápago Bay_, and of the broad bay extending to the Chafarinas Islands (see below); in the background, beyond the _Mar Chica_ or _Lago de Puerto Nuevo_ (Arabic _Sebkha Bu-Erg_), a shallow lake 13 M. long, appears the lofty chain of _Jebel Kebdana_ with the _Monte de Tessan_ (3275 ft.).

Continuing our VOYAGE, we pass the _Chafarinas Islands_ (French _Iles Zafarines_), occupied by the Spanish since 1848, which lie off the _Cabo del Agua_ and form the only safe harbour on this coast as far as Oran. On the _Isla Isabel Segunda_, the central island, rises a lighthouse visible at a distance of 20 M.

We pass the mouth of the _Mulûya_ (p. 93), the ancient _Malucha_ (or _Muluchath_), which separated the provinces of Mauretania Tingitana and Mauretania Cæsariensis (p. 244), and was in the middle ages the boundary between the kingdoms of Fez and Tlemcen (p. 188). Beyond it, rising above the thickly peopled coast-plain of _Tazagraret_, rises the chain of _Jebel Beni Snassen_ (p. 197), which belongs geologically to the Algerian Tell Atlas (p. 169). The political frontier between Morocco and Algeria is formed by the brook _Oued Kiss_ or _Adjeroud_ (comp. p. 169), near which, on the little _Baie d’Adjeroud_, and not far from _Cape Milonia_, lies the French seaport of _Port-Say_ or _Adjeroud_.

In calm weather the steamers call at the bay of =Nemours= (p. 198), enclosed by the spurs of the _Traras Mts._ (p. 198; landing or embarkation 1 fr.). They then pass _Cape Torsa_ and _Cape Noé_, where the plateau of _Mont Tadjera_ (2592 ft.) is sighted, and steer to the N.E. towards Cape Figalo, at some distance from the little port of _Honeïn_ (here the iron-ore of _Rhar el-Maden_ is exported), the lighthouse on the island of _Rachgoun_ (opposite the mouth of the _Tafna_, p. 185), and the port of _Beni-Saf_ (p. 185). To the N.E., beyond _Cape Figalo_, appear the _Isles Habibas_ (lighthouse), surrounded by reefs, and then, beyond _Cape Lindless_, the uninhabited little _Ile Plane_.

Beyond _Cape Falcon_ (lighthouse; p. 184) we survey the broad _Gulf of Oran_ (p. 126), as far as the _Pointe de l’Aiguille_. Immediately to the right, in the fertile _Plaine des Andalouses_, lies the village of _Aïn et-Turk_ (p. 184); then, beyond the spurs of the _Jebel Santon_, the harbour of _Mers el-Kébir_ (p. 183), with a fort and lighthouse. Entrance to the harbour of _Oran_, comp. p. 175.

* * * * *

=Cartagena= (Hot. de Francia y de Paris, Calle de Osuna and Plaza de la Aduana; Hot. Ramos, Plaza de Prefumo 8; Brit, vice-cons. J. C. Gray; U. S. cons. agent, A. J. Marks; pop. 41,300), founded by Hasdrubal in 221 B.C., the best natural harbour on the Spanish Mediterranean coast, is now the chief harbour of the Spanish navy. (It is reached by express from Madrid in 14 hrs.; sleeping-car on Mon., Wed., and Frid., 21 p. 25 c. extra.) The railway-station lies to the N.E. of the town, not far from Muelle de Alfonso Duodecimo, the quay, where the steamers are berthed. A charming view of the town and the bay is obtained from the _Castillo de la Concepción_ (230 ft.), a ruined castle on a hill.

The entrance to the inner harbour, which is closed by the _Dique de la Curra_ (lighthouse), is guarded by two forts situated on bold volcanic rocks, the _Castillo de las Galeras_ (656 ft.) on the W., and the _Castillo de San Julián_ on the E. (919 ft.). The outer bay is protected on the S.E. by the little island of _Escombrera_, the ancient _Scombraria_.

The Oran steamboats, soon after leaving Cartagena, steer due S., affording a retrospect of the lighthouses of _Cabo Tiñoso_ to the W. and _Cape Palos_ (p. 112) to the E., and they usually enter the _Gulf of Oran_ (p. 126) before dawn.

19. From Marseilles to Oran.

615 M. STEAMBOAT LINES (agents at Marseilles, see p. 120; at Oran, p.
176). _Comp. Générale Transatlantique_, _rapide_ on Thurs. and Sat.
aft. (in reverse direction Tues. and Thurs.), in 41 hrs., fare 81 or
59 fr.; _Transports Maritimes_, Tues. (returning Sat.), in 38 hrs., 75
or 55 fr.; cargo-boat Frid. (returning Tues.), in 46 hrs., 60 or 40
fr.; _Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache Co._), Wed. (returning Sat.), in 54
hrs., 60 or 40 fr.

Travellers in S. France may take a steamer of the _Navigation Mixte_
from _Cette_ (a seaport 90 M. to the W. of Marseilles) to Porte
Vendres and Oran (Thurs. night), in 45 hrs., fare 90 or 65 fr.

_Marseilles_ and its harbour, see p. 119.

Steering out into the _Gulf of Lions_ and the _Balearic Sea_, the steamers at first either follow the same course as those to Gibraltar (R. 17), or a more easterly course, past _Majorca_ and _Dragonera_ (p. 112), towards the rock-bound strait between _Iviza_ (p. 112) and the flat island of _Formentera_, the southmost of the Balearic group. In passing we obtain a fine view of the town of _Iviza_, with its old castle and loftily situated cathedral (see Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal).

Nearing the Algerian coast, we first sight the range of hills culminating in _Jebel Orouze_ (p. 199), which separates the bays of Arzew (p. 199) and Oran. Entering the outer *_Gulf of Oran_, we survey its full extent from the _Pointe de l’Aiguille_ to _Cape Carbon_ (p. 264). On the left, rises the curiously shaped _Jebel Kahar_ or _Montagne des Lions_ (p. 184). In the foreground, in the inner bay bounded by _Pointe Canastel_ and the headland of _Mers el-Kébir_ (p. 183), lies the town of _Oran_, with the old fort of _Santa Cruz_ rising high above it (p. 175).

20. Prom Marseilles to Algiers, Bougie, Philippeville, and Bona.

STEAMERS (agents at Marseilles, see p. 120; at Algiers, p. 219; at
Bougie, p. 262; at Philippeville, p. 304; at Bona, p. 309). =1.=
_Comp. Générale Transatlantique_ from Marseilles to Algiers (463 M.),
_rapide_ mail-steamers on Sun., Tues., Wed., and Frid. at noon
(returning Sun., Tues., Thurs., Frid. at noon), in 26½ hrs.; from
Marseilles to Bougie (455 M.), Tues. noon (returning Sat. evening), in
37½ hrs.; from Marseilles to Philippeville (455 M.), Sat. noon
(returning Frid. noon), in 30 hrs.; from Marseilles to Bona (462 M.),
Tues. aft. (returning Tues. night), in 31 hrs.; fares by the
mail-steamers to Algiers 96 or 69 fr.; for the other three routes 81
or 59 fr.—=2.= _Transports Maritimes_, from Marseilles to Algiers (and
back), Wed. and Sat. aft., in 35 hrs., fare 70 or 45 fr.; to
Philippeville (Bougie), Sat. aft. (returning Wed. noon) in 36 hrs.,
fare 60 or 40 fr.; to Bona, Mon. (returning Thurs.) aft., in 37 hrs.,
fare 60 or 40 fr.—=3.= _Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache Co._), from
Marseilles to Algiers, _rapide_ on Thurs. noon (returning Sat. noon),
in 32 hrs., fare 75 or 50 fr.; _direct_ cargo-boat on Mon. aft.
(returning Frid. noon), in 36 hrs., fare 60 or 40 fr.; to
Philippeville (Bona), mail-steamer on Thurs. noon (returning Mon.
noon), in 33 hrs., fare 75 or 50 fr.

Cheap steamers to Algiers are the cargo-boats of _Caillol & Duvillard_
(50 or 30 fr.) and of _Prosper Durand_ (40 or 25 fr.).

Less frequented routes are those of the _Navigation Mixte_ from Cette
(90 M. to the W. of Marseilles) to Port Vendres and Algiers (Sat.
night; 42 hrs.; 90 or 65 fr.); the Spanish _Compañía Mallorquina_ (p.
120) from Marseilles and Barcelona to Palma and Algiers (twice
monthly; passport necessary); and the _Comp. Générale Transatlantique_
(cargo-boats), between Ajaccio and Bona (Thurs. evening; in 30–38
hrs.; 60 or 50 fr.).

_Marseilles_, see p. 119.

The ALGIERS steamer usually passes close to the E. side of the island of _Minorca_, the eastmost of the Balearic group, where, in daylight, the deeply indented natural harbour of _Mahon_, the chief town, specially attracts attention. When the sea is rough the course is sometimes more westerly, past _Cape Minorca_ (lighthouse), the W. extremity of the island, while inland on the flat coast lies the town of _Ciudadela_; the vessel then passes at some distance from the _Cabo de Pera_ (lighthouse), and from the hilly S.E. coast of _Majorca_, which is famed for its stalactite caverns (see Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal).

At length, in clear weather, we obtain a glorious *View of the Algerian coast, from the hills of _Cape Bengut_ (lighthouse) to the E., and the _Jurjura Chain_ and the _Tell Atlas_ to the S.E., both snow-clad in winter, to the wooded hill-country of _Sahel_, culminating in _Mont Bouzaréah_, and _Cape Caxine_ (lighthouse) to the W. We now enter the fine *_Bay of Algiers_ (p. 221), bounded by _Cape Matifou_ (lighthouse) on the N.E. and the cliffs of the _Pointe Pescade_ on the N.W., and survey its whole expanse. To the left, in the _Mitidja Plain_, between Cape Matifou and the sand-hills at the mouth of the Harrach, lies _Fort-de-l’Eau_, a sea-bathing place; beyond the Harrach, on the hill, stands the church of _Kouba_; farther along the coast, among the houses of _Hussein-Dey_ and _Belcourt_, lies the _Jardin d’Essai_, backed by the gardens of _Mustapha-Supérieur_; behind the harbour of Algiers rises the high terrace-wall of the boulevards; then, above the new town, the white houses and lanes of the Kasba on the spurs of the hill crowned with the _Fort l’Empereur_; lastly, on the slope of the Bouzaréah hill, between the N.W. suburbs _Bab el-Oued_ and _St. Eugène_, appears _Notre-Dame d’Afrique_, the mariners’ church.—Arrival in the harbour, see p. 217.

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