Chapter V: Sea Routes in the Western Mediterranean (2)

On the voyage from Marseilles to BOUGIE the course is more easterly, out of sight of the Balearic Islands. The tedium of the voyage is at length compensated for near the Algerian coast by an imposing *View of the mountains of _Kabylia_, which after a snowfall in winter have quite an Alpine charm. To the W., between _Cape Sigli_ and _Cape Carbon_ (p. 264) lies the abrupt and almost uninhabited coast of _Great Kabylia_, overtopped by the lofty _Jebel Arbalou_ (p. 262). To the S., behind the fine curved outline of the _Gulf of Bougie_ (p. 130), and beyond the plain of the _Soumane Valley_, rise the heights of _Little Kabylia_, with the deep depression of the _Agrioun Valley_, and, to the S.E., the serrated range of _Jebel Tababor_ (6460 ft.). To the E., beyond _Cape Cavallo_, stretches the hill-region of _Djidjelli_. In the N.E. angle of the bay, on the S. slope of the _Jebel Gouraya_, but long concealed by the three spurs of that mountain (Cape Carbon, p. 264, _Cape Noir_, and _Cape Bouak_, with its lighthouse), lies most picturesquely the quiet seaport of _Bougie_, embosomed in luxuriant evergreen vegetation (p. 262).

The crossing to PHILIPPEVILLE is specially recommended to travellers bound for Biskra direct, as they thus avoid the long railway journey from Algiers. The broad _Gulf of Stora_, with its numerous headlands and creeks and its beautiful wooded hills, presents a charming picture, especially in spring. In the background, in a pleasant creek, lies _Philippeville_ (p. 304). In passing through the outer harbour we obtain a good view of the town.

On the voyage to BONA the first land sighted on the Algerian coast is the lofty _Mount Edough_ (3307 ft.; p. 169), the spurs of which extend to the N.W. to the _Cap de Fer_ (p. 131). The steamers then enter the _Gulf of Bona_, bounded on the W. by the _Cap de Garde_ (lighthouse), the N.E. spur of Mt. Edough, and on the E. by _Cape Rosa_ (p. 131). On the S. margin of the bay, above the marshy alluvial plain of the _Seybouse_ and the _Oued Mafrag_, rise the peaks of the _Tell Atlas_.

On the W. side of the gulf, between the spurs of the Edough, lies _Bona_ (p. 309), one of the most important and most beautiful seaports of Barbary, with rich verdure all around. Before entering the grand harbour, commanded by the hill of the Kasba, we view the _Corniche Road_ (p. 311), while on the low hill of _Hippo_, to the S. of the town, rises the church of _St. Augustine_ (p. 312).

21. From Marseilles to Tunis.

555 M. STEAMBOATS (agents at Marseilles, see p. 120; at Tunis, p.
331). =1.= _North German Lloyd_ from Marseilles to Goletta
(Alexandria) every second Wed. foren. (returning Sat. even.), in 30½
hrs. (90–150 or 60 marks).—=2.= _Comp. Générale Transatlantique_ from
Marseilles to Tunis direct (Malta, R. 63), Mon. at noon (returning
Frid. aft.), in 31½ hrs. (96 or 69 fr.); viâ Bizerta to Tunis (Sfax
and Susa, R. 64), Frid. at noon (returning Wed.), in 41 hrs. (81 or 59
fr.).—=3.= _Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache Co._) from Marseilles to Tunis
direct (Sfax and Tripoli, R. 64), _rapide_ mail-steamer Wed. at noon
(returning Mon. afternoon), in 39 hrs. (75 or 50 fr.); cargo-boat viâ
Bizerta to Tunis (Palermo, R. 26), Sat. evening (returning Thurs. at
noon), in 49 hrs. (60 or 40 fr.).

_Marseilles_, see p. 119.—After remaining for some time in view of the coast of _Provence_ as far as _Cape Sicié_ (comp. p. 132), the vessel steers to the S.E. and loses sight of land.

Off the _Isola di Mal di Ventre_ we may catch a glimpse of the peninsula of _Sinis_, which lies on the N. side of the large _Gulf of Oristano_, on the W. coast of _Sardinia_, and at whose S. end once lay the Phœnician colony of _Tharros_. The bare and monotonous hills of the S.W. coast, with the well-known lead and zinc mines of the _Iglesiente_, the region round Iglesias, are only visible in clear weather. The steamer rounds the islands of _San Pietro_ and _San Antioco_ (p. 118), with its capital of the same name on the E. coast, occupying the site of the Phœnician _Sulci_. We pass the _Golfo di Palmas_, with the uninhabited islets of _La Vacca_, _Il Vitello_, and _Il Toro_ (p. 118), and then _Cape Teulada_ (p. 118), after which Sardinia is soon lost to view.

To the S.W. appears the distant _Ile de la Galite_ (p. 132); then, on the coast of _Tunisia_, we descry the low spurs of the _Tell Atlas_ (p. 320), with the headlands of _Râs el-Koran_, _Râs Engelah_ (lighthouse; the northmost point of the African continent), _Cap Blanc_ (lighthouse; the _Promontorium Candidum_ of antiquity), and _Cap de Bizerte_ or _Cap Guardia_ (853 ft.; lighthouse). To the S.E. another lighthouse marks the rocks of ‘_I Cani_‘.

Some steamers call at _Bizerta_ (p. 352); the others steer to the left, past the Cani and the island of _Pilau_ (p. 132), towards the little _Ile Plane_ (lighthouse), which lies off _Cape Farina_ (Arabic _Râs Tarf_; the ancient _Promontorium Apollinis_), where we come in sight of the broad _Gulf of Tunis_, with the island of _Zembra_ (p. 153) in the background.

We now cross the _Bay of Utica_ (p. 353) to the S., which since ancient times has been largely filled up with the deposits of the _Medjerda_ (p. 320), pass _Cape Kamart_ (p. 351) and _La Marsa_ (p. 351), and then reach the picturesque _Cape Carthage_ (p. 351), with its lighthouse and the sea-baths and white houses of _Sidi Bou-Saïd_. We now enter the *_Inner Bay of Tunis_, commanded on the E. by _Jebel Korbous_ (p. 364) and on the S. by _Jebel Bou-Kornin_ (p. 363), _Jebel Ressas_ (p. 358), and _Jebel Zaghouan_ (p. 359); we pass close to the castle-hill of _Carthage_ (p. 344), crowned with the cathedral, the sea-baths of _Le Kram_, _Khéreddine_, and _Goulette Neuve_ (p. 344), and reach _Goletta_ (or _La Goulette_; p. 343), a small seaport, situated on the tongue of land separating the _Lac de Tunis_ or _Lac Bahira_ (p. 332) from the open sea.

The steamer here enters the canal, 5½ M. long, 110 yds. wide, and about 20 ft. deep, constructed across the lake in 1893, where we have a good view of the white houses of Tunis. On the right lies the island of _Chikly_, with relics of a castle built by Emp. Charles V. The surface of the lake is sometimes enlivened by flamingoes. The steamer, at half-speed, takes another hour to reach _Tunis_ (p. 329).

22. From Algiers to Tunis by Sea.

432 M. STEAMERS (touching at intermediate ports, 469 M.; agents at
Algiers, see p. 219; at Bougie, p. 262; at Philippeville, p. 304; at
Tunis, p. 331). =1.= _Comp. Générale Transatlantique_, cargo-boat Wed.
evening, viâ Bougie, Djidjelli, Collo, Philippeville, Bona, La Calle,
Tabarca, and Bizerta, arrives at Tunis Sun. aft. (returning Sat. noon,
arrives at Algiers Wed. morn.); 100 or 80 fr.; pier-dues at Tunis 4 or
3 fr.—=2.= _German Levant Line_, twice or thrice a month, generally
calling at La Calle.—=3.= _Hungarian Adria Co._, cargo-boat twice a
month to Tunis direct.

Or the voyage may be pleasantly divided as follows: Marseilles steamer
of _Comp. Gén. Transatlantique_ from Algiers to Bougie (Frid. evening;
in 10 hrs.; 25 or 18 fr.); Marseilles steamer of _Transports Maritimes
Co._ from Bougie to Philippeville (Tues. afternoon; in 12 hrs.; 18 or
12 fr.); Marseilles steamer of _Navigation Mixte_ from Philippeville
to Bona (Sat. forenoon; in 5 hrs.; 10 or 8 fr.); from Bona to Bizerta,
by cargo-boat as above, or by railway; from Bizerta to Tunis by
Marseilles steamer of the _Comp. Gén. Transatlantique_ (p. 128; Sat.
night; in 5 hrs.; 15 or 12 fr.).—The small coasting steamers of
_Prosper Durand_ of Marseilles and of the _Lignes Cotières
Algériennes_, which call at most of the ports as far as Bona, can only
be recommended for short voyages by daylight.

The coast scenery between Algiers and Tunis is exceedingly picturesque
and varied, but the voyage is often very trying for bad sailors.
Storms are most frequent between Djidjelli and Collo, and between La
Calle and Bizerta, and fogs are not uncommon, even in summer.

_Algiers_, see p. 217. As the steamer leaves the harbour a beautiful *View is obtained astern of the town and of the coast as far as the _Pointe Pescade_ (comp. p. 127). Beyond _Cape Matifou_ the coast, overlooked by the serrated _Jebel Bou-Zegza_ (p. 249), recedes for a time from view.

Near _Jebel Djinet_ (p. 253), beyond the sand-hills at the mouth of the _Isser_ (p. 253), begins the bold rock-bound coast of _Great Kabylia_, 87 M. in length, with its headlands and cliffs worn by the surf, its secluded little seaports, and its hill-sides carefully cultivated by the natives.

We pass the mouth of the _Sebaou_ (p. 253), the largest stream in Kabylia, and _Cape Bengut_ (p. 254), which affords scanty protection against the W. winds to the port of _Dellys_ (p. 254); then _Tigzirt_ (p. 255), _Cape Tedless_, and _Port Gueydon_ or _Azeffoun_ (lighthouse), with its roadstead open towards the W. Next comes the wildest and loneliest part of the coast, between _Cape Corbelin_ and Cape Carbon; we pass _Cape Sigli_, the _Pointe Timri n’Tguerfa_, where _Jebel Arbalou_ (p. 262) comes in sight, and _Cape Boulima_.

Beyond the little _Ile Pisan_ or _Djeribia_, overlooked by the steep slopes of _Jebel Gouraya_ (p. 265), the steamer rounds _Cape Carbon_ (p. 264), passes _Cape Noir_ and _Cape Bouak_, and enters the harbour of =Bougie= (p. 262).

The *_Gulf of Bougie_, in winter the finest part of this coast, presents many superb scenes (comp. 128), notably as we look back at the town of Bougie climbing the slope of Jebel Gouraya.

Near _Cape Cavallo_, in the E. part of _Little Kabylia_, the summits of _Jebel Hadid_ (4780 ft.) and _Msid Echta_ (5072 ft.) are specially prominent. We next pass the curiously shaped hill in the _Ile du Grand-Cavallo_, the _Petit-Cavallo_, and the headland _Râs Afia_ (lighthouse), and reach the little seaport of—

=Djidjelli= (p. 267), pleasantly situated at the foot of green hills, where the steamers anchor in the open roads (landing or embarkation ½ fr.). If time permit, the _Vigie_ should be visited.

The vessel now steers to the N.E. at some distance from the coast; we pass the mouths of the _Oued Nil_ and the _Oued el-Kébir_, the ancient boundary between Mauretania and Numidia, and then the _Râs Atia_ (lighthouse): Fine view of the _Bougaroun Mts._, commonly called _Sahel de Collo_, famed for their forest of cork-trees.

Near _Cape Bougaroun_ or _Bougaroni_ (lighthouse), the northmost point of Algeria, opens the broad _Gulf of Stora_ (p. 128), bounded on the E. by the Cap de Fer (see below). On the W. bank of the gulf, in the little _Bay of Collo_, and between the peninsula of _Djerda_ (lighthouse) and the _Râs Frao_, lies the small seaport of—

=Collo= (Grand-Hôtel, poor), important only for the export of cork, the ancient _Chullu_ or _Colonia Minervia Chullu_, one of the four Coloniæ Cirtenses (p. 298), in a fertile hill-region. From the harbour (landing or embarkation 30 c.) we walk round the *Peninsula, planted with vines and cacti, and overgrown on the N. side with underwood, and affording splendid views of the gulf.

Steering to the E. we now skirt the coast, where the _Cape El-Kalaa_ or _Râs Bibi_ (535 ft.), rising abruptly on both sides, specially strikes the eye, and pass the _Pointe Esrah_ and the bay of that name. By the islet of _Sgrigina_ (lighthouse), which lies in front of the _Pointe Akmês_ or _Sgrigina_, opens the _Inner Bay of Stora_, bounded by _Jebel Filfila_, a mountain rich in marble, while in the background lies the harbour of =Philippeville= (p. 304).

On the N.E. margin of the gulf, beyond the plain of the _Oued el-Kébir_, with its border of sand-hills, rise the spurs of _Mont Edough_ (p. 128). The steamer next rounds the almost insular _Cap de Fer_ (1148 ft.; lighthouse), where we again view the whole expanse of the gulf, and passes _Cape Toukouch_, which shelters the bay of _Herbillon_ (lighthouse) from the W. and N.W. winds. We now steer to the E.S.E., past the bare _Jebel Gouari_ (1880 ft.), _Cape Axin_, and the dark rock of the _Voile Noire_ (213 ft.), towards the _Cap de Garde_ (p. 128), which projects in front of the gulf of =Bona=.

Three hours’ steaming from Bona, past the low _Cape Rosa_, whose light is seen 30 M. away, brings us to the open roads of =La Calle= (hotel), where landing is impossible in rough weather.

Beyond the rock of _Kef Mechtob_ (591 ft.), and a little short of _Cape Roux_, which is crowned with a ruined tower, and like Cape Rosa was once famed for its coral-reefs, runs the frontier of _Tunisia_. The wooded hills rising abruptly from the sea belong to the region of the _Kroumirie_ (p. 326), so often mentioned in the recent history of the country.

=Tabarca= (p. 327), the next port, lies picturesquely in a bay behind the island of _Tabarca_ with its ruined Genoese castle.

Again steering to the N.E. we pass a range of high sand-hills and the mouth of the _Oued Zouara_, where we have a glimpse of the _Nefza Mts._ (p. 328).

Off _Cape Negro_ appears in clear weather the coral-girt _Ile de la Galite_ (1290 ft.), the _Calatha_ of antiquity, about 24 M. to the N.W. of _Cape Serrat_ (lighthouse), where the ramifications of the _Mogod Mts._ approach the coast.

Beyond the cliffs of the two _Fratelli_ and the _Râs al-Dukara_ we round the _Bizerta Hills_, the northmost part of the African coast, with the four headlands _Râs el-Koran_, _Râs Engelah_, _Cape Blanc_, and _Cape de Bizerte_ (p. 129). As we near the bay of =Bizerta= (p. 352), fringed with low olive-clad hills, we descry, far to the S.W., the _Jebel Ichkeul_ (p. 352).

Steaming farther to the E., we observe the _Cani_ (p. 129) on the left, and pass _Râs Zebib_, where the green island of _Pilau_ (377 ft.) becomes visible in the foreground. To the right, on the N. slope of _Jebel Nadour_ (p. 354), covered far up with sea-sand, lies the highly picturesque Arab village of _Metlineh_.

For the voyage from _Cape Farina_ to _Tunis_, see p. 129.

23. From Marseilles to Naples.

512 (viâ Genoa 615) M. STEAMBOAT LINES. =1.= _Orient Royal Mail_
fortnightly, on the way from London to Port Said.—=2.= _North German
Lloyd_, for Naples and Alexandria, Wed. afternoon, in 33 hrs. (100 or
70 marks); for Genoa, Naples, Catania, Piræus, Smyrna, Constantinople
(Odessa, Batum) every other Frid. afternoon, in 3 days (80 or 56
marks).—=3.= _German East African_, to Naples (and Port Said) every
third Sat. in 2 days, returning from Naples every third Wed. (80 or 60
marks).—=4.= _Messageries Maritimes_, to Naples (Piræus, Smyrna,
Constantinople, Beirut, RR. 77, 80, 75) every second Thurs. (100 or 70
fr.).—=5.= _Chargeurs Réunis_ (Tour du Monde), twice quarterly vîa
Genoa to Naples (Colombo, E. Asia, San Francisco, etc.).—=6.=
_Hungarian Adria Co._, cargo-boats, Sun. forenoon, vîa Genoa to Naples
in 4 days (Palermo, Malta); also Wed. afternoon to Nice, Genoa, and
Naples in 4½ days (Palermo, Messina); fare, without food, 42 fr.—The
steamers of the P. & O. and Rotterdam Lloyd companies go from
Marseilles to Port Said direct.

_Marseilles_, and departure from its harbour, see p. 119.

The steamers run to the E.S.E., between _Cap Croisette_ and the _Ile du Planier_ (p. 119), past the _Ile Maire_, _Ile Jarros_, and _Ile Rio_ to the Straits of Bonifacio. Fine view of the richly varied coast of Provence, as far as the peninsula of _Cape Sicié_, with the bays of _Cassis_ and _La Ciotat_, the latter of which is overlooked by the rock called the _Bec de l’Aigle_. In the background, beyond the bare limestone rocks on the coast, appears the _Chaîne de la Ste. Baume_ (3786 ft.), famed for its ancient forest, the property of the state. Beyond Cape Sicié and the _Bay of Toulon_, we pass the steep rocky S. coast of _Porquerolles_ (lighthouse), the largest and westmost of the _Iles d’Hyères_, the ancient _Stoechades Insulae_.

After a sail of several hours more _Corsica_ (p. 143), with its high mountains, is sighted towards the E. In the distance lies the _Bay of Ajaccio_, where at night the lights on the _Iles Sanguinaires_ may be descried. We next pass the _Gulf of Valinco_, and at _Cape Aquila_ or _Senetosa_ (lighthouse) we approach the S.W. coast of Corsica, fringed with numerous bays and creeks. Off the rocks called _Les Moines_ (_Monaci_) we sight, to the left, the _Montagne de Cagna_ (4518 ft.), which is usually covered with snow in winter.

The passage of the *_Straits of Bonifacio_, between Corsica and _Sardinia_, is very beautiful when the light is favourable. At the narrowest part, between _Cape Pertusato_ and _Punta del Falcone_, they are 7 M. wide. Between the lighthouses of _Capo di Feno_ and Capo Pertusato, amid fissured limestone rocks honeycombed with caverns, rises a headland crowned with the grey old Genoese citadel and the white houses of _Bonifacio_. Opposite to it, on the N. coast of Sardinia, is the peninsula of _Capo Testa_, and near the Punta del Falcone lies the narrow _Bay of Longo Sardo_, with the little port of _Santa Teresa di Gallura_. Beyond the town rise the hills of the _Gallura_ in terraces, stretching far away to the _Monti di Limbara_ (4469 ft.). On the S.E. the horizon is bounded by a girdle of granitic islands and rocks, the _Insulae Cuniculariae_ (‘rabbit-islands’) of Pliny, which imperil navigation, especially as they are washed with a strong current from the Tyrrhenian Sea.

The steamers pass through the _Bocca Grande_, between the lighthouses on the French island of _Lavezzi_ and the Italian _Isola dei Razzoli_. To the right, beyond the islets of _Santa Maria_ and _Isola dei Budelli_, appears the island of _Maddalena_, on which rise a signalling station and the fort of _Guardia Vecchia_ (545 ft.). This island, the largest of the group, is connected with its neighbours _Santo Stefano_ and _Caprera_ (696 ft.; once the residence of Garibaldi; d. 1882) by roads built on embankments, and has been converted into one of the strongest fortresses on the Mediterranean in emulation of Porto Vecchio in Corsica and of Bizerta. Beyond Caprera, and adjoining the deeply indented _Bay of Arsachena_, appears the reddish _Capo di Ferro_, the N.W. point of Sardinia.

We now steer across the _Tyrrhenian Sea_ to the E.S.E. towards the _Ponza Islands_ (p. xxxi). We first pass the volcanic N.W. group, _Palmarola_ (the ancient _Palmaria_), _Ponza_ (929 ft.; _Pontiae_, once a Roman colony), with the lighthouse of _Punta della Guardia_, and _Zannone_ (_Sinonia_). Beyond _La Botte_, a rock dreaded by sailors, begins the S.E. group, first _Ventotene_, the well-known _Pandateria_ of the Romans, to which Julia, Agrippina, and Octavia were banished, and then the islet of _Santo Stefano_ (lighthouse).

In the distance appear the _Monte Epomeo_ and the lighthouse on the _Punta Imperatore_ in the island of _Ischia_ (p. 118). Approach to the _Bay of Naples_, see p. 135.

From Naples to _Alexandria_ and _Port Said_, see R. 67; to _Athens_
(_Smyrna_, and _Constantinople_), see R. 77.

24. From Genoa to Naples.

387 M. STEAMBOAT LINES (agents at Genoa, see p. 114; at Naples, p.
137). =1.= _Cunard_ (New York and Trieste Line), once monthly to
Naples.—=2.= _White Star_ (for New York or Boston), once monthly to
Naples (3_l._ 5_s._).—=3.= _North German Lloyd_ (for New York), two or
three times a month, in 21 hrs.; also (for Port Said) every second
Thurs. to Naples, in about 24 hrs.; also Mediterranean-Levant Service
(for Catania, Piræus, Smyrna, Constantinople; RR. 23, 27, 77, 80),
every second Sat., in about 26 hrs. (70.40 or 48.20 marks).—=4.=
_Hamburg-American_ (for New York), once or twice monthly to Naples (80
fr.).—=5.= _Società Nazionale_: Line XX every Wed. night to Naples
(and Messina, etc.; circular trip, comp. p. 142) in 33 hrs. (52 or 34
fr.); Lines V, X, & XI every Mon. and Tues. to Leghorn and Naples in
42–48 hrs. (63 or 42 fr.); Line I monthly to Naples (for Port Said and
Bombay).—=6.= _La Veloce_, to Naples (for Teneriffe and S. America),
comp. p. 114.—=7.= _Lloyd Sabaudo_, 1–3 times monthly to Naples
(Palermo and New York).—=8.= _Italian Lloyd_, 1–3 times monthly to
Naples and New York.—=9.= _Hungarian Adria Co._ (comp. R. 23), Tues.
and Sat., to Naples in 36 hrs.; fare, without food, 24 fr.

_Genoa_, see p. 113. In departing we survey in clear weather the whole of the *_Gulf of Genoa_. On the left lies the _Riviera di Levante_, as far as the _Monte di Portofino_ (2000 ft.; p. 117); on the right are the _Ligurian Alps_, snow-capped in winter, and the _Riviera di Ponente_ as far as _Cape Mele_ (p. 113).

The vessel steers for the island of Gorgona (see below), passing Monte di Portofino at a distance of 6 or 7 M., and then gradually leaves the coast; the last place visible is _Chiavari_ on the beautiful _Bay of Rapallo_. Beyond the headland of _Punta del Mesco_, where the slopes of the _Cinque Terre_, a famous wine-country, descend abruptly to the sea, appear the rocky islet of _Tino_ (302 ft.; lighthouse) and the fortified island of _Palmária_ (614 ft.), at the S. point of the _Gulf of Spezia_. The distant pinnacles of the _Apuan Alps_ are seen in clear weather. Of _Leghorn_ (p. 143), where some of the Italian steamers call, the lights only are visible at night.

The islands of _Gorgona_ and _Capraia_ (p. 143) lie on the right; behind the latter sometimes peep the mountains of _Corsica_ (p. 143). From the Ligurian we now pass into the _Tyrrhenian Sea_, either through the _Strait of Piombino_, between the port of _Piombino_ and the rocky islet of _Palmaiola_, or through the _Palmaiola Strait_, between that islet (lighthouse) and _Elba_ (p. 143). By _Follónica_, near Piombino, some furnaces, where iron from Elba is smelted, gleam through the night. Beyond the _Bay of Portoferraio_ and _Capo della Vita_, the N.E. point of Elba, are seen near _Rio Marina_ the reddish-black hills where the iron-ore comes to the surface. Farther to the S. is seen the depression of the bay of _Porto Longone_.

The _Promontory of Castiglione_, in the midst of the marshy _Maremma Toscana_, and the small group of the islands of _Formíche di Grosseto_ remain some way to the left. The steamer then passes through a strait between the steep headland of _Monte Argentario_ (2083 ft.) and the island of _Giglio_ (1634 ft.), each with its lighthouse. On the right lies the islet of _Giannutri_ (305 ft.).

Steering towards the seaport of _Civitavecchia_ and _Cape Linaro_, we see the distant _Maremma di Roma_, backed by the volcanic _Tolfa Mts._ (2011 ft.). Above the _Roman Campagna_ rise the _Sabine_ and _Alban Mts._, followed by the _Volscian Mts._ (Monti Lepini) and the _Monte Circeo_ (1775 ft.) in the _Pontine Marshes_. Farther on, we obtain a glimpse of _Terracina_, the distant hills on the _Gulf of Gaëta_, and, to the S.W., the _Ponza Islands_ (p. 133).

In the foreground we next sight _Vesuvius_ and the island of _Ischia_ with _Monte Epomeo_ (2589 ft.), by which _Capri_ is at first concealed. The steamers usually pass between Ischia and _Procida_, but sometimes through the _Strait of Procida_, between that island and _Cape Miseno_. The *_Bay of Naples_, which we now survey in its full expanse, from the _Bay of Pozzuoli_ and the hill of _Posilipo_ to the _Peninsula of Sorrento_ (p. 154), is strikingly picturesque.

=Naples.=—ARRIVAL BY SEA. The Mediterranean and New York steamers of
the North German Lloyd and those of the Società Nazionale are berthed
at the Immacolatella Nuova (Pl. G, H, 5). Passengers by other steamers
are landed at that quay by boat, those from the Lloyd and Orient Royal
Lines free of charge by steam-tender or boat respectively, from others
by rowing-boat (1 fr., with luggage, but bargain advisable).
Travellers should be on their guard against boatmen wearing the
jerseys of well-known steamboat-lines though not employed by these
companies. Porter (facchino) for small valise 40, trunk 80 c.

The =Railway Station= (_Stazione Centrale_, Pl. H, 3) lies at the E.
end of the city, 12 min. from the Immacolatella Nuova (see above), and
½¾ M. from most of the hotels. Here arrive all the express trains from
the north, such as those from Verona (18½–20¼ hrs.), from Milan (17
hrs.), from Turin (17½–22½ hrs.), and from Venice (20 hrs.). As the
delivery of luggage is a slow process, the traveller who is willing to
pay somewhat more may drive straight to his hotel without it, and have
it sent later. Porter (_facchino_) for each small package 15, for each
trunk 25 c.

=Hotels= (often full in spring). Of the very first class: *BERTOLINI’S
PALACE HOTEL (Pl. p; C, 6), in the Parco Grifeo (with lift from the
Corso Vittorio Emanuele; 245 ft.), R. from 6 (Jan.–May 10) fr., B. 2,
déj. 5, D. 8 fr.; *EXCELSIOR (Pl. o; F, 7), Via Partenope 24, R. from
6, B. 2, déj. 5, D. 7 fr., new; *GRAND-HÔTEL (Pl. d; B, 7), Piazza
Principe di Napoli, near the sea, at the W. end of the Villa Nazionale
(p. 141), R. from 6, B. 1¾, déj. 4½, D. 7 fr.—In the higher quarters,
with beautiful views: Corso Vittorio Emanuele 168, *BRISTOL (Pl. a; D,
6), R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr.; No. 135, *PARKER’S (Pl. b; C,
6), R. 5–10, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5½ fr.; adjacent, No. 133,
*MACPHERSON’S HÔT. BRITANNIQUE (Pl. q; C, 6), R. 4–6 (Jan.-April, 5–8)
fr., B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr.; *GRAND EDEN (Pl. u; C, 6), Parco
Margherita 1, R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5½ fr.; BELLEVUE (Pl. t; C,
6), Corso Vittorio Emanuele 142, R. 3½–4½, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.

=In the lower quarters.=—Via Partenope, facing the sea: No. 23,
*GR.-HÔT. SANTA LUCIA (Pl. m; F, 7), R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6
fr.; No. 22, *GR.-HÔT. DU VÉSUVE (Pl. g; E, 7), R. from 6, B. 1½, déj.
4, D. 6 fr.; *GR.-HÔT. VICTORIA (Pl. v; E, 7), R. from 5, B. 1½, déj.
4, D. 6 fr.; No. 14, *ROYAL DES ETRANGERS (Pl. i; E, 7), R. from 6, B.
1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr. Piazza del Municipio (convenient for passing
travellers): *GR.-HÔT. DE LONDRES (Pl. l; F, 6), R. from 5, B. 1½,
déj. 3½, D. 5 fr. Overlooking the sea, Via Partenope and Strada
Chiatamone 55, HASSLER (Pl. k; E, 7), R. 5–10, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5
fr., good; Via Caracciolo 15, SAVOY (Pl. r; B, 7), R. from 4, B. 1½,
déj. 4, D. 5 fr. Riviera di Chiaia (Pl. D, C, B, 7), with view of the
Villa Nazionale and the sea: No. 276, *GR. BRETAGNE & ANGLETERRE (Pl.
e; D, 7), R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr.—By the sea, Via
Partenope 20, *CONTINENTAL (Pl. c; E, 7), R. 3½–7, B. 1½, déj. 3, D.
4½ fr. Strada Medina 76 (convenient for passing travellers), ISOTTA &
GENÈVE (Pl. s; F, 5), R. 4½–6, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4½ fr. By the sea,
entrance Strada Chiatamone 59, MÉTROPOLE & VILLE (Pl. h; E, 7), R.
from 4, B. 1¼, déj. 3½, D. 3–4½ fr., good. Riviera di Chiaia 127, with
view of the Villa Nazionale and the sea, RIVIERA (Pl. f; C, 7), R.
3–4, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr., good. Strada Santa Lucia 37, ELDORADO
MODÉRN (Pl. x; E, 7), R. from 3, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.

Unpretending: LA PATRIA (Pl. w; F, 5) Via Guglielmo Sanfelice 47, R.
3½–5 fr., good; HÔT. DE NAPLES, Corso Umberto Primo 55, R. 4–5 fr.;
HÔT. MILAN & SCHWEIZERHOF, Piazza del Municipio 84, R. 3–4 fr., RUSSIE
(Pl. n; F, 7), Strada Santa Lucia 82, R. 2½–3½ fr., both plain.

=Restaurants= (_Ristoranti_, _Trattorie_; Italian style, à la carte).
_Giardini Internazionali_, Via Roma, entrance Vico Tre Re 60, good
cuisine; _Giardini di Torino_, Via Roma 292; _Ristorante Milanese_,
Galleria Umberto Primo, N. Italian cookery; _Scotto Jonno_, Galleria
Principe di Napoli (Pl. F, 3), déj. 2 fr., _Nic. Esposito_, Salita del
Museo 62 (these two suitable for visitors to the Museum); _Renzo e
Lucia_, _Mira Napoli_, both at the terminus of tramway-line Nr. 7 (for
visitors to San Martino); _Ristorante Bella Vista_ (p. 142), on the
hill of Posilipo.—=Beer.= *_Pilsener Urquell_, Strada Santa Brigida
36; _Bavaria_, Galleria Umberto Primo, opposite the Teatro San Carlo,
good.

=Cafés.= _Gambrinus_, Piazza San Ferdinando, also restaurant,
_Calzona_, Galleria Umberto Primo, at both evening concerts;
_Nazionale_, Villa Nazionale (p. 141), near the Aquarium.—=Tea Rooms.=
Galleria Vittoria (Pl. E, 7). open 3–8 p.m. only, fashionable; Via
Domenico Morelli 8 (Pl. E, 7); Strada di Chiaia 143 (Caflish,
confectioner).—=Bars=, numerous in Via Roma.

=Taximeter Cabs.= All the fares given below are for drives within the
city; charges for drives outside the city at any time of day are the
same as the night-fares given below.

a. BY DAY: _Open one-horse carriage_ (for 2 pers., or 3 at most), for
the first 1500 metres (ca. 1 M.) or 12 min. waiting 40 c., for each
additional 500 m. or 4 min. waiting 10 c. (_two-horse carr._, for 4–6
pers., 60 and 20 c.). _Closed one-horse carriage_ (‘coupé’), for the
first 1200 m. (ca. ¾ M.) or 12 min. waiting 50 c., each addit. 400 m.
or 4 min. waiting 10 c. _Motor Cab_, for the first 1000 m. or 12½ min.
waiting 80 c., each addit. 200 m. or 2½ min. waiting 10 c.; each
addit. pers. above three 40 c.—b. BY NIGHT (midnight to dawn): _Open
one-horse carriage_ for the first 1200 m. or 12 min. waiting 40 c.,
each addit. 400 m. or 4 min. waiting 10 c. (_two-horse carr._ 60 and
20 c.). _Closed one-horse carriage_ for the first 1000 m. or 12 min.
waiting 50 c., each addit. 333⅓ m. (ca. 365 yds.) or 4 min. waiting 10
c. _Motor Cab_, for the first 1000 m. or 12½ min. waiting 80 c., each
addit. 100 m. (ca. 110 yds.) or 2 min. waiting 10 c.; each pers. above
three 80 c.

Luggage up to 25 kilos (55 lbs.) 10 c., up to 50 kilos 20 c.; small
articles free.—In order to avoid misunderstandings the driver should
be asked to repeat the given direction before starting. The numerous
tramways and omnibuses will generally enable the traveller to dispense
with cabs.

=Tramways= (numbered; fare 15–40 c., 5 c. less in 2nd class; cars stop
regularly at stations called _sezione_, and when required at those
bearing the name _fermata_).

Chief lines: =1.= _Piazza Sette Settembre_ (in front of Spirito Santo;
Pl. E, 4; Via Roma, p. 139) to the Posta (Pl. F, 5), Piazza del
Municipio, Piazza San Ferdinando, Largo della Vittoria (Pl. D, 7),
Torretta (Pl. B, 7), and _Strada Nuova di Posilipo_ (p. 142).—=4.=
_National Museum_ (Pl. E, F, 3; p. 139) to the Piazza Cavour, Central
Station (Pl. H, 3; p. 135), Castel del Carmine (Pl. H, 4), Strada
Nuova (Pl. G, H, 5), Strada del Piliero, and Piazza del Municipio;
thence as No. 1 to the _Torretta_.—=6.= _Piazza Dante_ (Pl. E, F, 4;
p. 139) to National Museum, Via Salvator Rosa (Pl. E, 3), Corso
Vittorio Emanuele (p. 141), and _Torretta_ (Pl. B, 7).—=7.= _Piazza
Dante_ to National Museum, Via Salvator Rosa, Antignano (Pl. B, C, 4;
p. 142), and _Castel Sant’ Elmo_ (Pl. D, 5; by San Martino, p.
141).—=11.= _Piazza San Ferdinando_ (Pl. E, 6), to Strada del Piliero,
Strada Nuova (Pl. F, G, 5, 6; harbour), Via del Duomo (Pl. G, F, 4,
3), and _Strada delle Vérgini_ (Pl. F, 3).

=Funiculars= (every 10–20 min.; up 20 or 15, down 15 or 10 c.). =1.=
_Funicolare di Chiaia_, Parco Margherita (Pl. C, 6), to Corso Vittorio
Emanuele and Via Cimarosa (Pl. C, 5).—=2.= _Funicolare di Monte Santo_
to Strada Monte Santo (Pl. E, 4; 4 min. from Piazza Dante), Corso
Vittorio Emanuele, and Castel Sant’Elmo (Pl. D, 5).

=Omnibuses= (10 c.), among others, from Piazza San Ferdinando (Pl. E,
6) and from Largo della Vittoria (Pl. D, 7) to the National Museum.

=Steamboat Agents.= _Cunard_, Nic. Ferolla, Via Guglielmo Sanfelice
59; _Union Castle_, _Anchor Line_, _Orient_, and _Hungarian Adria_,
Holme & Co. (see below); _White Star_ and _Hamburg-American_, Piazza
della Borsa 21; _North German Lloyd_, Aselmeyer & Co., Corso Umberto
Primo 6 (goods-office, Piazza della Borsa 33); _German East African_,
Kellner & Lampe, Piazza della Borsa 8; _Austro-Americana_, Fornari &
Massara, Via Francesco Denza 2; _Messageries Maritimes_, Fratelli
Gondrand, Corso Umberto Primo 128; _Società Nazionale_, Via Agostino
Depretis 18; _Peninsular & Oriental_, _Thomson Line_, _Ferrovie dello
Stato_ (steamer service), Spanier, Piazza della Borsa 9; _Navigazione
Generale_, Via Agostino Depretis; _La Veloce_, same street, No. 26.

=Post & Telegraph Office= (Pl. F, 5), Palazzo Gravina, Strada
Monteoliveto.

=Consuls.= British Consul-General, _S. J. A. Churchill_, Via dei Mille
40 (Pl. D, 6); vice-consul, _A. Napier_.—U. S. Consul, _A. H.
Byington_, Piazza del Municipio 4 (Pl. F, 6).

=Tourist Agents.= _Thos. Cook & Son_, Galleria Vittoria (Pl. E,
7).—=Goods Agents.= _American Express_, Via Vittoria 27; _Elefante &
Co._, Piazza del Municipio 66; _Fratelli Gondrand_, Corso Umberto
Primo 128.—=Lloyd’s Agents.= _Holme & Co._, Via Guglielmo Sanfelice
24.

=Churches.= _English_ (_Christ Church_; ‘Chiesa Inglese’; Pl. D, 7),
Strada San Pasquale; _Presbyterian_ (‘Chiesa Scozzese’), Vico Cappella
Vecchia 2; _American_, Viale Principessa Elena 15.

=Sights.= (The churches are usually open in the morning and towards
evening. The Museums are closed on great festivals.) _Museo Nazionale_
(p. 139), week-days 10–4, May-Oct. 9–3, adm. 1 fr.; Sun. 9–1
free.—_San Martino_ (p. 141), week-days 10–4, 1 fr.; Sun. 9–1,
free.—_Aquarium_ (p. 141), daily, 2 fr.; Sun. and holidays 1 fr.

_Naples_, Ital. _Napoli_, once the capital of the kingdom of Naples, and now that of a province, is the most important seaport and after Milan the most populous city of Italy (492,000 inhab.). It lies in 40°51′ N. lat. and 14°15′ E. long., on the N. side of the bay named after it, at the foot and on the slopes of several hills. Its site and environs are among the most beautiful in the world. The vicissitudes of its history are as remarkable as those of its volcanic soil. Here in hoar antiquity Greeks from _Kyme_ (Cumæ) founded _Parthenope_, afterwards called _Palaeopolis_ or ‘old town’, and _Neapolis_, or ‘new town’. Here, too, Ostrogoths, Byzantines, Normans, and Hohenstaufen held sway. Charles of Anjou (1266–85) made Naples his capital, which was much extended by Ferdinand I. of Aragon (1458–94), by the Spanish viceroy Don Pedro de Toledo (1532–53), and by the Bourbon Charles III. (1748–59). At length in 1860 the kingdom and city were united to the kingdom of Italy. In historic and artistic monuments Naples is far poorer than the towns of Northern and Central Italy; but the matchless treasures from Pompeii and Herculaneum preserved in the Museum, which present a new and fascinating picture of ancient life, afford ample compensation.

A line drawn from the _Castel Sant’Elmo_ (Pl. D, 5; p. 141) to the _Pizzofalcone_ (Pl. E, 7), a height which terminates in the narrow rock of the _Castello dell’Ovo_, divides the city into two parts. To the E. lie the oldest and busiest quarters, of which the long _Via Roma_ (p. 139) is the main street. The smaller part of the town, the strangers’ quarter, extends along the shore to the W. from the Pizzofalcone and up the slopes of Sant’Elmo and _Posilipo_ (p. 142).

The HARBOUR QUARTER, and particularly the lanes between the Strada Nuova (Pl. G, H, 5) and the broad Corso Umberto Primo (Pl. F-H, 5, 4), which leads to the station, still present diverse scenes of popular life. Through this quarter the Strada del Duomo (p. 140) leads to the Strada Foria and the _Museum_ (p. 139).

Passing the _Immacolatella Vecchia_ (Pl. G, 5), we follow the Strada del Piliero (Pl. G, F, 5, 6; tramways Nos. 4 and 11; see p. 137) to the _Molo Angioino_ (Pl. F, G, 6), the old quay which separates the _Porto Mercantile_ from the _Porto Militare_.

Adjacent, on the W., lies the PIAZZA DEL MUNICIPIO (Pl. F, 6), with the _Municipio_ or town-hall at its W. end. On the S.E. side of this piazza is the approach to the—

=Castel Nuovo= (Pl. F, 6), built for Charles I. of Anjou in 1279–83, and afterwards much enlarged. It was the residence successively of the kings of the houses of Anjou and Aragon and the Spanish viceroys, but is now used as barracks. The inner gateway of the castle (adm. free) consists of a *_Triumphal Arch_, flanked with two towers, in the early Renaissance style, erected in 1451–70 in memory of the entry of Alphonso I. of Aragon (1442).

From the Piazza del Municipio the Strada San Carlo leads to the S.W. to the =Galleria Umberto Primo= (Pl. E, F, 6), built in 1887–90, and vying with the grand arcade at Milan, and to the—

PIAZZA SAN FERDINANDO (Pl. E, 6), the business centre of the city. (Tramcars and omnibuses, see p. 137.) On the E. side rises the _Teatro San Carlo_ (Pl. F, 6), dating from 1737, one of the largest in Europe. Adjacent, in the large Piazza del Plebiscito, rises the =Palazzo Reale= (Pl. F, 6), begun in 1600.

At the Piazza San Ferdinando begins the VIA ROMA, the chief artery of traffic, named the _Toledo_ down to 1870, after its founder Don Pedro de Toledo (1540). With its continuation the Salita del Museo Nazionale it ascends for over a mile, between the lanes on the slope of the Sant’Elmo hill, on the left, and the chief business part of the city, on the right, to the National Museum. This long line of streets, poor architecturally, is broken only by the small Largo della Carità (Pl. E, 5) and the Piazza Dante (Pl. E, F, 4). About halfway between these the Via Domenico Capitelli diverges to the right to the church of—

_Santa Chiara_ (Pl. F, 4), the Pantheon of Naples, built in 1310–40, but tastelessly restored in 1742–57. The interior, planned in the French Gothic style, resembles a great public hall. Behind the high-altar is the Gothic *Monument of Robert the Wise (d. 1343), the founder of the church. The transepts contain the monuments of other Angevin kings.

The **=Museo Nazionale= (Pl. E, F, 3), built in 1586 as cavalry barracks, was the seat of the University from 1616 to 1780, but since 1790 has been occupied by the royal art-collections, which are among the finest in the world. Adm., see p. 137.

On the GROUND FLOOR, in the E. wing on the right of the vestibule, are
the *Greek Sculptures in marble. Entering by the first door, we begin
our visit with the colonnade of the archaic sculptures (Marmi
Arcáici). In the centre: 6009, 6010. Harmodios and Aristogeiton (p.
506).—Turning to the right, we enter the rooms on the S. side of the
building, which contain sculptures of the First Golden Age of Greek
art (5th cent.). In the central room, 6322. Bust of Athena, probably
after _Cephisodotus_ (father of Praxiteles); by the window, two
statues of Aphrodite (after _Alcamenes_?); I. Room on the right, 6005.
So-called Hera Farnese; II. Room on the left, *6727. The famous
Orpheus relief; *6024. Statue of Athena (after _Phidias_?). Also, in
II. R. on the right, fine Mosaics.

From the colonnade of the archaic sculptures we pass through R. II
into the Flora colonnade, the rooms on the right of which contain the
sculptures of the Second Golden Age of Greek art (4th cent.) and of
the later Greek or Hellenistic period. In the central room, 6306.
Bearded Dionysus, after _Praxiteles_. I. Side-Room on the right,
*6035. Torso of Aphrodite; without a number, Torso of a man sitting, a
replica of the so-called Ares Ludovisi, after _Lysippus_. II.
Side-Room, Farnese Hercules, after _Lysippus_, but coarsened. III.
Side-Room on the left, Farnese Bull, a colossal group, after
_Apollonius_ and _Tauriscus_ of Rhodes.

The third colonnade contains coloured sculptures. In the side-rooms
are fragments of sculptures and buildings. Crossing the vestibule to
the W. wing, we enter the—

Colonnade of the Greek portrait-statues (Portico Iconográfico). On the
right, *6018. Æschines, the Athenian orator; 6023. Homer; 6135.
Euripides.—Straight on, we next come to the Portico degli Imperatori,
containing Greek and Roman portraits. In the centre, *Hermes of a
Greek philosopher. In the side-rooms, Roman sculptures and
architectural fragments. The central of these rooms contains the
celebrated *Mosaic of the Battle of Alexander.

The remaining rooms contain the *Collection of the larger antique
bronzes. The chief rooms (I, II Bronzes from Pompeii, III-V from
Herculaneum) are on the S. front of the Museum. Room I. 5003. Young
Dionysos (so-called Narcissus). Room II. 5630. Archaic statue of
Apollo playing on the lyre; 4997. Victory. Room III. 5625. Hermes
reposing, _School of Lysippus_; 5633. Boy’s head (end of 5th cent.);
*4885. Bust of the Doryphorus (spear-bearer), after _Polycletus_;
*5618. Head of bearded Dionysus, after a work of the _School of Myron_
(5th cent.). Room V. 5616. Hellenistic poet (the so-called Seneca).

In the MEZZANINO (entresol), on the right, is the *Collection of
ancient wall-paintings (Affreschi Pompeiani) from Pompeii,
Herculaneum, etc.—Room I. 9105. Briseis carried off from the tent of
Achilles; 9559. Nuptials of Zeus and Hera. Room II. 8976. Medea about
to slay her children; 9286. Dionysus and the sleeping Ariadne. Passage
to R. V, 9180. ‘Cupids for sale’. Room V. 8834. Girl gathering
flowers; 9295. Bacchantes and Satyrs; 9133. Centaurs; 9118–21.
Rope-dancing satyrs.

The FIRST FLOOR (Primo Piano) contains, in the E. wing, to the left of
the staircase, the two Sale dei Commestibili, devoted to provisions,
textiles, pigments, etc. from Pompeii; also seven rooms on the N. side
of the building, occupied by the *Collection of the smaller bronzes
(Piccoli Bronzi), and by interesting domestic furniture from Pompeii,
affording an admirable idea of the ancient style of living.

The whole of the W. wing is occupied by the Pinacotéca or
picture-gallery, chiefly of Italian works. Room I. _Correggio_,
Betrothal of St. Catharine. Room II. *_Titian_, Danae (1545), Pope
Paul III. Farnese (1543 and 1545), and Philip II. of Spain. Room III.
_Sebast. del Piombo_, Holy Family, Popes Hadrian VI. and Clement VII.
Room IV. _Raphael_, Holy Family (Madonna del divino Amore). Room V.
_Sandro Botticelli_, Madonna.

The other rooms contain Renaissance objects (Oggetti del Cinquecento),
the Engravings, and the National Library.

The SECOND FLOOR (Secondo Piano) is dedicated to antique glass, gold
and silver plate, cut gems, etc., a most interesting and extensive
collection, one of the finest of its kind.

The N.E. QUARTER, between the Museum and the Central Station (tramways Nos. 4 and 11; p. 137), also boasts of its sights.

We follow the long Piazza Cavour (Pl. F, 3) to the N.E. from the Museum, and at the beginning of the Via Foria descend the Strada del Duomo to the right to the (4 min.)—

=Cathedral= (Pl. G, 3; _San Gennaro_; best seen about noon), a Gothic edifice, built in 1272–1323, but repeatedly modernized. The third chapel in the right aisle is the famous Cappella di San Gennaro or Cappella del Tesoro, added to the church in 1608–37; the altar contains two phials of the blood of St. Januarius, which is miraculously liquefied thrice yearly. The crypt, below the high-altar, shows the finest example of Renaissance decoration in Naples (1497–1507). From the left aisle is entered the basilica of _Santa Restituta_, the old cathedral, founded in the 7th century.

The church of _San Giovanni a Carbonara_ (Pl. G, 3), in the street of that name, a little way to the N.E. of the cathedral, contains, at the back of the high-altar (1746), the late-Gothic *Monument of king Ladislaus (d. 1414), by Andreas de Florentia.

At the end of the street, opposite the _Castel Capuano_ (Pl. G, 3; now law-courts), built by Emp. Frederick II. in 1231, rises the—

*=Porta Capuana= (Pl. G, H, 3), one of the finest of Renaissance gateways, built by the Florentine Giuliano da Maiano (1485), with sculptures by Giovanni da Nola (1535).

The chief approach from the Piazza San Ferdinando (p. 138) to the W. quarters is by the animated STRADA DI CHIAIA (Pl. E, 6). From its W. end we proceed along the Strada Santa Caterina, bearing to the left, cross the Piazza dei Martiri, and follow the Via Calabritto, with its numerous shops, to the—

LARGO DELLA VITTORIA (Pl. D, 7; tramways, Nos. 1 and 4, and omnibus, see p. 137). This piazza may be reached also from the Rione Santa Lucia on the E. side by the Via Parténope (Pl. F, E, 7), which leads along the coast, past the _Costello dell’Ovo_ (p. 138), and affords fine views. On the W. side of the Largo lies the—

*=Villa Nazionale= (Pl. C, D, 7), usually called _La Villa_, a beautiful public garden planted with palms, bounded on the seaside by the Via Caracciolo, the fashionable promenade of Naples, and on the side next the town by the Riviera di Chiaia. A band plays here on Sun., Tues., and Thurs., 2–4 o’clock (June-Oct. 9–11 p.m.). In the middle of these grounds is the—

_Zoological Station_, founded in 1872 by the German naturalist A. Dohrn (d. 1909). The central building contains the *=Aquarium= (Pl. D, 7; adm., see p. 137), which presents an unrivalled and most interesting picture of submarine life.

The winding =Corso Vittorio Emanuele=, over 2½ M. long, ascends from the coast a little way beyond the Villa Nazionale, or it may be reached from the Museum by the Via Salvator Rosa (Pl. E, 3; tramway No. 6, see p. 137). Above the ‘Villa’, on the S. slope of the Sant’ Elmo Hill, are situated the best hotels.

On the hills to which the two funiculars and tramway No. 7 (p. 137) ascend from the lower town lies the new quarter of _Rione Vómero_ (Pl. C, D, 5). On its E. side rises the old _Castel Sant’ Elmo_ (Pl. D, 5; 817 ft.), fortified with huge walls and with passages hewn in the tufa rock, and now used as a military prison. From the outer gate of the castle, at the tramway-terminus, we descend to the E. to the suppressed Carthusian monastery of—

*=San Martino= (Pl. D, 5; adm., see p. 137), a Gothic building of the 14th cent., tastefully restored in the baroque style about 1650. The church, the old farmacía (Room III), and the cloisters are interesting. The other rooms contain Neapolitan memorials and art-industry collections. Rooms XV and XVI (once the library) are filled with Neapolitan majolicas and porcelain. From Room XXX, to the right, we enter a *_Belvedere_ (XXXII), whose balconies offer a superb view of the city, Vesuvius, the bay, and the fertile plain extending to the Apennines (best by afternoon light).

A famous view (clear weather necessary) is obtained from the old
monastery of **=Camaldoli= (1503 ft.), founded in 1585 on the highest
of the hills to the N.W. of Sant’ Elmo. The rough road to it (carr.
about 6, with two horses 9–10 fr.; there and back 4½ hrs.) leaves the
city near the _Porta San Martino_ (Pl. A, B, 2), the N.W. gate of the
Cinta Daziaria or wall of the _octroi_ (town-customs). If on foot or
on donkey back (2–2½ fr. and fee to attendant; 5–6 hrs.), we go from
_Rione Vomero_ (see above) through the suburb of _Antignano_ (Pl. B,
C, 4, 5) to the little customs-office of _l’Archetiello_ (Pl. B, 4),
near which the bridle-path begins.

The monastery (suppressed, and now private property, but still
occupied by several monks; fee 30–50 c.; ladies not admitted) offers
little attraction. Straight through the garden we reach a point of
view which commands the bays of Naples and Pozzuoli, the Phlegræan
plain with its numerous extinct craters, and the Bay of Gaëta as far
as the distant Ponza Islands (p. 133).

When ladies are of the party we turn to the right, near the N.W. angle
of the monastery-wall, and descend a little to the (8 min.) gate of
the _Veduta Pagliana_ (adm. 20 c.), where the view is similar.

Travellers whose time is limited may at least visit the *_Strada Nuova di Posílipo_ (tramway No. 1; p. 137). It is approached, beyond the Villa Nazionale (p. 141), by the Strada di Mergellina (Pl. B, 7), from which the Corso Vittorio Emanuele (p. 141) diverges. The Strada Nuova di Posilipo, gradually ascending from the sea, leads between villas with luxuriant gardens round the broad hill of _Posílipo_, which bounds the Bay of Naples on the W., and offers, especially by evening light, superb views of Mt. Vesuvius, the peninsula of Sorrento (p. 154), and the island of Capri. A walk of 10 min. straight on from the tramway-terminus brings us through a cutting to the _Bella Vista_, a point of view near the restaurant of that name (p. 136), where we have an unimpeded view of the bay of Pozzuoli and of the islands of Procida and Ischia (p. 135).

An interesting circular trip may be made from the Corso Vittorio Emanuele (p. 141), up the Via Tasso (Pl. C, B, 6), with its fine points of view, to the top of Posilipo, then along the crest of the hill to the S.W. to the tramway-terminus, and back by the Posilipo road (a walk of 3½–4 hrs., or a drive of 1½ hr.; a cab should be taken by the hour).

For Naples and its Environs comp. also _Baedeker’s Southern Italy_, or
_Italy from the Alps to Naples_.

25. From Genoa to Tunis viâ Leghorn and Cagliari.

620 M. This route forms part of the ‘Linea Circolare della Tunisia e
Tripolitania’ (Lines XVIII-XX) of the _Società Nazionale_, a circular
tour which offers interesting glimpses of Sardinia, Malta, and the E.
coast of Sicily, as well as of Oriental life at the N. African ports
(RR. 64, 27, 24). The steamers usually leave Genoa on Frid. evening,
Leghorn on Sat. night, and Cagliari on Mon. evening, and arrive at
Tunis on Tues. forenoon. (In the reverse direction they leave Tunis on
Mon. at noon and reach Genoa on Thurs. evening.) Fare 111 or 83 fr.
(or for the whole round 303 or 212 fr.). As some of the steamers are
hardly up to date, inquiry as to the best should be made beforehand.
Office at Genoa, see p. 114; at Leghorn, Piazza Micheli (p. 143); at
Tunis, p. 331.

_Genoa_, and voyage to (92 M.) _Leghorn_, comp. pp. 113, 134. We pass _Melória_, a cliff 4 M. to the W. of Leghorn, off which the Genoese destroyed the fleet of Pisa in 1284.

=Leghorn=, Ital. _Livorno_ (Marble Palace Hotel; Hôt. d’Angleterre & Campari, Hôt. Giappone, both in Via Vittorio Emanuele, with restaurants, good Italian houses for passing travellers; Brit, cons., M. Carmichael; U. S. cons., E. A. Man; pop. 78,000), a provincial capital, one of the chief seaports of Italy, and a sea-bathing place, is quite a modern town. The harbour consists of the _Porto Nuovo_, sheltered by a semicircular mole (_diga curvilinea_) and the new _Molo Vegliaia_, and the old _Porto Mediceo_, or inner harbour. (Landing or embarkation 1 fr.; trunk 30 c.).

Near the harbour is the Piazza Micheli, adorned with a curious monument of the grand-duke _Ferdinand I. of Tuscany_ (1587–1609). Straight on runs the Via Vittorio Emanuele, the main street, lined with shops. It leads across the large Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, which is flanked by the _Cathedral_, the _Municipio_, and other public buildings, to the Piazza Carlo Alberto, whence the Via Garibaldi and Via Palestro lead to the left to the railway-station.

A pleasant walk (or tramway from the station to Antignano) is offered by the _Viale Regina Margherita_, about 2 M. in length, the seaside promenade to the S. of the town, in summer enlivened by numerous bathers. Between it and the harbour, and adjoining the Piazza Mazzini, is the _Cantiere Orlando_, the dockyards where iron-clads and other vessels are built for the Italian navy.

At the S. end of the sea-promenade lie the villa-suburbs of _Ardenza_ and _Antignano_, which have sea-baths also.

On the fine VOYAGE from Leghorn to (339 M.) Cagliari we at first obtain a good view of the _Tuscan Archipelago_, relics of the primæval _Tyrrhenis_ (p. xxxi). These islands are composed mainly of granite, with slate and limestone strata overlying it in places.

Passing at some distance from the barren fisher-island of _Gorgona_ (837 ft.) and from _Capraia_, the _Capraria_ (goats’ island) of antiquity, we steer to the S.S.W. towards the W. coast of Elba, enjoying in clear weather a fine distant *View of the peninsula of _Cape Corse_, the N. extremity of _Corsica_, and of _Monte Cinto_ (8892 ft.), the highest mountain in the interior of that island.

We next skirt the island of _Elba_, the _Æthalia_ of the Greeks and _Ilva_ of the Romans, the largest island in the archipelago, 19 M. long, famous as the scene of the first exile of Napoleon I. (1814–5). The valuable iron-mines here (comp. pp. 134, 135), worked from very ancient times, are an important factor in the industries of Italy. We pass the rocky N. coast of the island, which is visible as far as the _Capo della Vita_ (p. 135), and on its W. side we observe the massive granitic _Monte Capanne_ (3343 ft.).