Chapter III: Andalusia.5 (1)

Route Page
Geographical and Historical Sketch. Preliminary Notes 49
5. Gibraltar 52
6. From Gibraltar to Seville 56
a. Viâ Bobadilla and Utrera 56
b. Viâ Tangier and Cadiz 57
7. Seville 59
a. The Plaza del Triunfo with the Alcázar and the
Cathedral, 61.—b. The Central and Eastern Quarters (Casa
del Ayuntamiento, Casa de Pilatos, University), 65.—c.
The Western and South-Western Quarters (Museo Provincial,
Hospital de la Caridad, Public Gardens), 66.
8. From Seville to Cordova 68
9. From Cordova viâ Bobadilla to Granada 72
10. Granada 73
a. The Lower Town, 75.—b. Darro Valley and Albaicín, 78.—c.
The Alhambra, 79.—d. The Generalife, 87.
11. From Granada viâ Bobadilla to Málaga 88

_Andalusia_, the southmost region of Spain, is geologically of somewhat recent origin. In the tertiary period the sea still washed the southern shores of the Iberian tableland, until a pressure acting in a direction from S. to N. gradually lifted up a new coast in long parallel folds, while the Mediterranean forced a new passage to the ocean through the Straits of Gibraltar (comp. p. xxix). Latest of all appeared the Guadalquivir Bay, the highest point of whose coast scarcely rises 490 ft. above the sea. The coast-hills, which have their counterpart in the Rîf Mts. on the African side (p. 93), stretch in the main from E. to W., descending abruptly to the sea. Transverse fissures, in which volcanic activity is still indicated by frequent earthquakes, divide the coast into several different chains, which culminate in the _Sierra Nevada_ (11,421 ft.; ‘snow-mountain’), the highest peak in Spain. The W. chain (_Serranía de Ronda_) trends round to the N. In contrast to the _Andalucía Alta_, the folded region facing the Mediterranean, the _Andalucía Baja_, the basin of the Guadalquivir, opens towards the Atlantic. The _Guadalquivir_ (Arabic _Wâd al-Kebîr_, ‘the great river’), the _Bætis_ of antiquity, rises indeed in the Sierra de Cazorla, apart from the coast-mountains, but receives its more copious affluents, particularly the _Guadiana Menor_, from the Sierra Nevada. After a wild career it enters the plain beyond Montoro, becomes navigable at Cordova, and even carries sea-going vessels at Seville.

Footnote 5:

Fuller details in _Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal_.

The HISTORY of the country dates from hoar antiquity. It was the _Tarshish_ of the Bible, being already named in the generations of Noah (Gen. x. 4), and was called by the Greeks _Tartessós_, the home of precious metals, especially of silver, the source of the wealth of Tyre. Here, too, are the rich copper mines of _Rio Tinto_ and _Tharsis_, which were already worked in the ancient Iberian age. The Mediterranean peoples contented themselves with visiting the harbours established in the bays of the coast, leaving it to the natives to bring the produce of the interior down to them across the mountains or by the river Bætis. Thus arose, probably even before the foundation of Cadiz, the Phœnician towns of _Málaca_ (Málaga) and _Kalpe_ (Gibraltar), besides other small settlements. About 1100 B.C. _Gadîr_ or _Gades_, the westmost of these, appears in history, and afterwards became dependent on Carthage. The art of writing, the first and most potent aid to commerce, was propagated from Gades, which thereby laid the foundation of the higher civilization of the peninsula. Summoned to their aid by the Gaditanians, the Carthaginians, who had already gained possession of the Balearic Islands, invaded Iberia. After the Punic Wars (p. 345) came the domination of the Romans, who in 27 A.D. gave the whole of S. Spain the name of _Provincia Baetica_. On the break-up of the Roman Empire Andalusia was overrun by the Vandals (p. 322), the Suevi, and the Visigoths. At length the Arabs and the Berbers of Morocco obtained a footing here, after they had crossed the Straits of Gibraltar under Târik (p. 54). By them this region, and afterwards the whole peninsula which they conquered, were named _El-Andalûs_ (‘land of the West’). Down to the 13th cent. the Moors occupied Andalusia, and it was not till 1492 that Granada was captured by Ferdinand V., the Catholic.

These vicissitudes in the country’s history are still reflected in its present INHABITANTS. Half African, half European, like the Maltese, the Sicilians, and the Sardinians, the Andalusians have inherited something of the character, the customs, and the language of all the nations that once held sway in this region. To this day the Andalusian dialect swarms with Arabic words; almost all the terms used in agriculture and irrigation are Arabic. The popular dances and music are of Oriental origin. To their Oriental ancestry the Andalusian (_Andaluz_, _Andaluza_) also owes his exuberant imagination. There can be no greater contrast than that which the calm and proud Old-Castilian presents to the volatile and excitable Andalusian, who is apt to substitute fancy for fact, who sees everything as through a magnifying glass, and who is therefore much given to exaggeration (_fanfarronadas_). On the other hand nothing can be more charming than the bearing of an Andalusian ‘maja’, who is admired rather for her wit, her grace, and her power of repartee than for her beauty. The _Sal Andaluza_ is as proverbial as the Attic ‘salt’ of the ancients.

Andalusia can boast of possessing, not only some of the finest and most interesting Moorish BUILDINGS in Spain, such as the mosque at Cordova, the Giralda and Alhambra at Granada, but also several of the grandest monuments of the ‘reconquista’ period. Among these are the Alcázar of Seville, one of the most brilliant creations of the so-called Mudejar, or Moorish-Christian style, and the grand cathedrals of Seville and Granada in the Gothic and ‘plateresque’, or Spanish early-Renaissance, styles.—Nor is the SCENERY of this region less attractive. Andalusia may be said to stand in the same relation to Spain as Sicily to Italy, or as Provence to the rest of France. It combines all that the rest of the peninsula possesses locally or partially. To the E. are vast plateaux and steppes, frozen in winter and parched in summer; to the S. rise snow-clad mountains; on the S.W. are the sand-dunes of the Atlantic coast; olive-groves thrive on the Guadalquivir; and on the shores of the Mediterranean are well-watered vegas where the cotton-plant, the banana, and the sugar-cane flourish.

MEDITERRANEAN TRAVELLERS will hardly have time for more than a
circular tour from Gibraltar to Tangier, Cadiz, Seville, Cordova,
Granada, and back to Gibraltar, or, in unfavourable weather, to
Algeciras, Bobadilla, and Seville only. The Spanish railways (see the
_Guía general de Ferrocarriles_; 1 p., smaller edition 75 c.) are far
inferior to the British or to the French, and their speed is very low.
The natives travel mostly in the second or third class, but the
carriages cannot be recommended. The first class often has a
_berlina_, or coupé-carriage with four seats, which affords an
unimpeded view (higher fare).

In the larger towns one may book luggage (_facturar el equipaje_) 1–2
hrs. before the departure of the train, at the _despacho central_, or
town-office. Booking it at the station itself is a very slow process.
As in France luggage up to 30 kilos (66 lbs.) is free. The ticket for
it is called a _talón_ or _boletín de equipaje_. The porter (_mozo_),
often most importunate, receives 30–50 c. or more.

Andalusia possesses few first-class hotels. The better second-class
inns are similar to the French and Italian. Even for a stay of a
single day it is usual to pay an inclusive charge for bed and board
(_pupilaje_, from 6 to 20 p.). Déjeuner or lunch (11–1 o’clock) is
called _almuerzo_; dinner, _comida_ (at or after 7); table-wine, _vino
común_ or _de mesa_. No allowance is made for meals omitted. An extra
charge is often made for breakfast (coffee, etc.), which Spanish
travellers usually take in their own rooms. Notice of departure should
be given as early as possible, lest a whole additional day be charged
for. The usual fee to the servants (_camarero_, waiter; _muchacha_,
chamber-maid; _mozo_, boots), who are apt to be lazy and inattentive,
is 1 p. per day, divided among them, or more in proportion for
families.

The beer-houses are called _cervecerías_. The cafés are usually open
in the afternoon and evening only. _Café con leche_ is coffee with
milk; _café solo_ is without milk. Newspapers (_periódicos_) are not
provided by the cafés. Tobacco and cigars are a government monopoly;
the shop is called _estanco_; there are also special shops for the
better Havana cigars.

The post-offices (_correo_), even in the larger towns, are often open
for a few hours only. The hours for obtaining poste-restante (_cartas
en lista_) or registered letters (_cartas certificadas_) are often
changed; the addressee must show his visiting-card (_tarjeta_) at the
office. Stamps (_sellos de correo_; for the town 10, country 15,
abroad 25 c.) and post-cards (_tarjetas postales_, 10 c.) are
obtainable at the tobacco-shops only. Telegrams (_telegramas_) must be
prepaid with special stamps (_sellos de telégrafos_), for the sale of
which there are separate offices.

The Spanish _peseta_ (p.), divided into 100 _centimos_ (c.), is
scarcely equal to the franc in value. The only valid banknotes are
those of the Madrid _Banco de España_. The 5 p. piece is popularly
called a _duro_; the 10 c. and 5 c. copper coins are often termed
_perro grande_ and _perro chico_ (‘big and little dog’) in jocular
allusion to the lions in the coat-of-arms. Change should be examined
carefully, as base coin is common.—At Gibraltar the currency is
English, but Spanish money is received, except at the post and
telegraph office.

5. Gibraltar.

=Arrival.= The ocean-going steamers land and embark their passengers
in their own steam-tenders at any time before sunset at the Commercial
Pier (fare for each pers. 1_s._ either way). The tariff for small
boats is 1_s._ 6_d._ for a row in the harbour, or to or from the
steamboats, for 1–2 pers., and 1_s._ for each addit. person; luggage
up to 56 lbs. free; excess, 6_d._ per 56 lbs.; or a bargain may be
made (l–2_s._ for passenger, incl. luggage). In bad weather the tariff
is raised, in accordance with the signals (red, blue, bluish-white),
to one-third more, or double, or triple fare. The porters are
notorious for their extortionate demands. The charge for conveying
luggage to the hotel should be fixed beforehand.—The _Custom House
Examination_ at the harbour-gate is confined to tobacco, spirits, and
weapons. Foreigners require a permit from the _Police Office_ (Pl. 2)
to spend the day on shore, and if they intend to spend the night the
permit must be renewed by their landlord. Between 5.30 and 8.15,
according to the season, a cannon-shot (gun-fire) announces the
closing of the Land Port (p. 55). The other gates remain open till 11.

=Hotels= (the inclusive charge for the day should be ascertained).
HÔT. BRISTOL (Pl. a), Cathedral Square, quiet and pleasant; GRAND
HOTEL (Pl. b) and HÔT. CECIL (Pl. c), both in Waterport St.; these
three have high charges, from 10–12_s._ a day and upwards; HÔT. PARIS
(Pl. f), opposite the post-office, new, pens. 8–15 fr.—Plainer: HÔT.
CONTINENTAL (Pl. d), Turnbull’s Lane; HÔT. VICTORIA, Church St.,
café-restaur.; NUEVO HOT. ESPAÑOL (Pl. e), Irish Town, pens. 8_s._,
tolerable.—The drinking-water (rain-water from cisterns) is not
good.—CAFÉS. _Universal_, Church St.; also at the _Assembly Rooms_ (p.
53).

=Cabs= (stands at Waterport Gate, Commercial Sq., and Cathedral Sq.).
_Drive_ for 1–2 pers. in the lower town, between Waterport Gate and
Alameda, 6_d._; in the upper quarters (Governor’s St.) 9_d._; to
Catalan Bay 1_s._ 3_d._; to the lighthouse 1_s._ 4_d._; to Governor’s
Cottage 1_s._ 9_d._—_Per hour_, for 1–2 pers., 1_s._ 6_d._; for each
addit. ½ hr. 6_d._; 3_d._ extra for each addit. pers., or 5_d._ extra
for the longer drives (lighthouse, Governor’s Cottage, etc.).—Each
trunk 2_d._—The tariff is in force only from daybreak till midnight. A
bargain should be made beforehand.

=Post Office= (Pl. 1), Waterport St.; week-days 7 a.m.–8 p.m. (on Sun.
8–10 a.m.). The overland English mail closes at 6.45 a.m.—=Telegraph
Office=, same place; 6 a.m. till midnight. Tariff to England 3_d._ or
(viâ Malta) 6_d._ per word; to the United States 1_s._ 4_d._–1_s._
11_d._ per word.

=Banks.= _Anglo-Egyptian_, Market St., opposite Police Station;
_Larios Hermanos_, Irish Town; _Thos. Cook & Son_ (tourist-agents),
Waterport St.—Numerous money-changers.

=United States Consul=, _R. L. Sprague_; vice-consul, _A. D.
Hayden_.—=Lloyd’s Agents=, _Smith, Imossi, & Co._, Irish Town.

=Theatre.= _Assembly Rooms_ (Pl. 8), in the Alameda, with open-air
café.

=Steamboat Lines= (comp. ‘Gibraltar Chronicle’). _Peninsular &
Oriental_ (Smith, Imossi, & Co., Irish Town), weekly between London,
Marseilles, and Port Said (for Australia and China; comp. RR. 17, 67);
_Orient Royal_ (Smith, Imossi, & Co.), fortnightly between London,
Marseilles, and Port Said (for Australia; comp. RR. 17, 67); _Cunard_
(M. H. Bland & Co., Cloister Bdg.), between New York and Trieste (RR.
15a, 16); _White Star_ (Th. Morsley & Co., Irish Town 11), 2 or 3
times monthly to Naples (and Genoa; RR. 16, 15a), or viâ Algiers to
Genoa; _North German Lloyd_ (J. Onetti & Sons, Engineer Lane),
fortnightly to Algiers, Genoa, Naples, and Port Said (comp. RR. 1,
15b, 24, 67), also fortnightly between New York, Algiers, Naples, and
Genoa (comp. RR. 16, 24); the _Hamburg-American_ (J. Carrara & Sons,
Waterport St.) has excursion-steamers only; _German Levant_ (J.
Rugeroni & Son, Commercial Sq.), occasionally to Algiers; _Hall Line_
(W. J. S. Smith, Bomb House Lane), weekly between London, Lisbon,
Cadiz, and Málaga (comp. RR. 1, 6b); _Royal Mail Steam Packet_ (Bland
& Co., see above), every other Wed. for Tangier, Mogador, Teneriffe,
etc. (RR. 14, 3, 4); _Transports Maritimes_ (Imossi & Son), 21st of
each month for Madeira and S. America; _Oldenburg-Portuguese_ (A.
Mateos & Sons, Pitman’s Alley) twice monthly to Tangier and Mogador
(R. 14); _Navigation Mixte_ (A. Mateos & Sons), every other Wed. night
to Tangier, Oran, and Marseilles (RR. 18, 19); _Vapores Correos de
Africa_ (J. Onetti & Sons; at Algeciras, A. Gil Pineda), from
Algeciras to Tangier and Cadiz (see R. 6b).—Local steamers to
Algeciras and Tangier, comp. R. 6.

ONE DAY (or even less when time presses). Walk through the town to the
_Alameda_ (p. 55); visit to _Europa Point_ (p. 55) and perhaps
_Catalan Bay_ also (p. 56).—Foreigners are not admitted to the
fortifications, photographing or sketching which is prohibited.

_Gibraltar_, a town of 23,450 inhab. (incl. the garrison of 5100 men), the key of the Mediterranean, and one of the most important coast-fortresses in the world, in British possession since 1704, and headquarters of the Atlantic Fleet, lies on the W. slope of a huge rock, which is connected with the Spanish mainland by a sandy isthmus only. The famous rock bounds the Bay of Algeciras or Gibraltar on the E. ‘It is the very image of an enormous lion, crouched between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, and set there to guard the passage for its British mistress’ (Thackeray).

The rock is composed of Jurassic limestone, overlying Silurian slate, and extending from N. to S.; it is 3 M. long and ¾ M. in breadth, with a saddle separating _Mt. Rockgun_ (1356 ft.), the lower hill on the N., from the _Signal Station_, the _Highest Point_ (1396 ft.), and the _Sugar Loaf Hill_ (_O’ Hara’s Tower_, 1361 ft.) on the S. Its grey masses ascend gradually in terraces on the W. and S. sides, and rise almost perpendicularly on the E. and N. sides.

The TOWN OF GIBRALTAR (‘North Town’) covers a third of the W. slope to the N., while the remaining two-thirds are occupied by the Alameda, numerous pretty villas, the barracks of the _South Town_, and the _Lighthouse_ on Europa Point. The houses rise in terraces to a height of 260 ft.; the streets are narrow and dark, and are relieved by few squares. The natives are chiefly Spaniards and descendants of many different Mediterranean races. The numerous Moroccans, mostly dealers from Tangier, indicate the proximity of the African coast. The cleanness of the town and the absence of beggars produce a pleasant impression. The Coal Stores on the South Mole (along with those of Algiers and Malta) supply the vessels bound for the Suez Canal (about 1200 annually). There is little other trade except the import of cattle and provisions from Galicia and Morocco.

The ancient name of the rock was _Kalpe_, while the hills on the
African side were called _Abyla_ (now Sierra Bullones; p. 103).
Together they were known as the ‘Pillars of Hercules’, the entrance to
the ocean. Under the protection of the divine Hercules-Melkarth, the
Phœnicians ventured through the straits, even as far as Britain,
whence they brought the earliest tidings from the North and also
cargoes of tin, which they mixed with copper to produce bronze.
_Kalpe_ was also the name of the first Phœnician settlement on the bay
of Gibraltar, while _Carteia_, on the inner part of the bay, was
probably of ancient Iberian origin. Carteia was still an important
harbour under the Carthaginians, and in 171 B. C. it became the first
Roman colony in the whole peninsula. Nothing is recorded of the period
which succeeded the invasion of the Vandals (p. 322). At length in 711
the bay re-appears in history, when _Mûsa_, the governor appointed by
the Caliph of Damascus, sent the Berber _Târik ibn Ziyâd_ across from
Ceuta to the bay of Algeciras on an expedition against Spain, in which
he defeated the Visigoths at Veger de la Frontera, near Cape Trafalgar
(p. 58). Impressed by the commanding position of the rock of
Gibraltar, Târik afterwards erected a fort upon it, which formed the
nucleus of the Moorish castle (p. 55). From him is derived the name of
_Jebel Târik_, ‘mountain of Târik’, corrupted into Gibraltar. In 1309
Gibraltar was captured by _Al. Pérez de Guzmán_ (_el Bueno_) for
Ferdinand IV. of Castile; the Moors recaptured it in 1333, but in 1462
lost it again to the Spaniards. In consequence of the plundering of
Gibraltar by Algerian pirates under _Kheireddin_ (p. 221), Charles V.
ordered the fortifications to be reconstructed and new ramparts to be
built from the S. side of the town to the crest of the hill. In 1610
the Spanish Admiral _Mendoza_ caused the last Moriscoes of Andalusia
to be sent back to Morocco from this very port, where their ancestors
had so long held sway, and whence they had gone forth to conquer the
whole peninsula. After having undergone ten sieges at various periods,
the fortress was surprised and captured by the British fleet under
_Adm. George Rooke_ and _Prince George of Hesse-Darmstadt_ in 1704,
during the Spanish War of Succession, and was stoutly and successfully
defended by them during a six months’ bombardment by the Spaniards and
the French (1704–5). The thirteenth siege (1727) and the ‘great siege’
by the French and the Spaniards (1779–83) were also unsuccessful, the
British commander then being _Gen. Eliott_, afterwards Lord
Heathfield. By the Peace of Versailles, in 1783, Great Britain was
confirmed in her possession of the historic rock.

The older FORTIFICATIONS on the coast, from Land Port on the N. to
Europa Point on the S., those on the S. slope of the rock above Europa
Point, and those on the N. side (the famous underground galleries, p.
55) have in late years been strengthened by the construction of a fort
on the summit of the hill, armed with guns of the largest calibre.

From the _Old Mole_, dating from 1309, and lately prolonged by the _North Mole_, we pass through the _Old Mole Gate_ (the outer gate of the harbour), and then, beyond the _Market_, through the inner _Waterport Gate_, which stands on the site of the old Moorish wharf. This brings us to the S. E. to CASEMATES SQUARE.

Adjacent, on the S., is WATERPORT STREET, with the chief buildings, forming, together with the parallel street to the W. called _Irish Town_, the chief business quarter.

Waterport Street is prolonged to the S. by CHURCH STREET. Beyond Commercial Square and the _Exchange_ (Pl. 3) we come to the Catholic _Cathedral_ (Pl. 4), on the left, originally a mosque, but restored by the ‘Catholic kings’ (p. 75) after 1502; there now remains little worth seeing except the Moorish orange-court.—A little farther on, on the same side is the _Supreme Court_ (Pl. 7), with its pretty garden. To the right, in Cathedral Square, stands the _Anglican Cathedral_ (Pl. 6), built in the Moorish style.

The southmost part of this line of streets is SOUTHPORT STREET, where, on the right, rises the _Convent_, once a Franciscan establishment, now the _Government House_ (governor, Sir Arch. Hunter), the garden of which contains a venerable dragon-tree (p. 30). At the S. end of this street is _Southport Gate_, which is always open, dating from the time of Charles V., but restored in 1883. Outside the gate, on the left, is the small _Trafalgar Cemetery_, where the British who fell at the battle of Trafalgar (p. 58) are buried.

The =Alameda=, beyond the gate, a fine promenade with rich subtropical vegetation, was laid out by Governor George Don in 1814. A military band plays near the Assembly Rooms (p. 53) on Sun. and Wed. from 3–5, or in summer in the evening. To the W. we overlook the _Naval Harbour_, with its dockyard, quays, and long _South Mole_.

A little to the E. of the Southport Gate is _Prince Edward’s Gate_, a second exit to the S. from the town, whence the *=Europa Main Road= ascends gently along the W. slope of the rock, above the Alameda Gardens, between gardens and villas. Below it, on the right, farther on, are the _Naval Hospital_ and the _Buena Vista Barracks_. Lastly, a little way short of a signal-station, we descend between the fissured rocks of the _Europa Pass_ to (1½ M.) _Europa Point_, with its great _Lighthouse_, the much-eroded S. extremity of the peninsula. The road then turns to the N., soon affording a view of the Spanish Mediterranean coast, to the _Governor’s Cottage_ and the _Monkeys’ Cave_ hidden among the rocks.

The _Moorish Castle_, above the artillery barracks, begun by Târik in 713 and completed in 742, is entered through the Civil Prison (verbal permission required by foreigners). Access to the _Subterranean Galleries_ of the fortress, lying below the castle and dating from 1782 (comp. p. 54), is now limited to British subjects.

From the Market (p. 54) we may walk to the N. E. to the _Land Port_ (notice as to closing should be observed; comp. p. 52), and past the _Inundation_, a space which may be flooded for defensive purposes (made in 1705), to the =North Front=, which forms part of the low neck of land below the N. slopes of the rock. From this point the Devil’s Tower Road leads to the S.E., past the _Cemeteries_, to the _Devil’s Tower_ (10 min. from the Land Fort), probably an old Genoese watch-tower. The road then turns to the S. to _Catalan Bay_, below the E. flank of the rock, just allowing room for the little fishing-village of _Caleta_. The rocks contain several caves.

Beyond the _Neutral Ground_, 550 yds. in breadth, we come to the
Spanish town of _Linea de la Concepción_ (29,600 inhab.), 1¼ M. to the
N. of Gibraltar, which owes its origin to the old Spanish lines of
defence, long since demolished. The place is uninteresting.

6. From Gibraltar to Seville.

a. Viâ Bobadilla and Utrera.

STEAMBOAT from Gibraltar (Commercial Pier) to _Algeciras Puerto_ in ½
hr. (fare 1½ or 1 p.; passengers with through-tickets have their
luggage conveyed gratis).—RAILWAY from Algeciras Puerto to _Seville_,
214 M., in 10½ hrs. (54 p. 20, 40 p. 20, 24 p. 85 c.); carriages are
changed at Bobadilla, La Roda, and Utrera. Rail. Restaurants at Ronda,
Bobadilla, and Utrera. There are through-expresses from Granada to
Seville (thrice weekly, in 7¾ hrs.), but they do not correspond with
the Algeciras trains.

_Algeciras_ (Hot. Reina Cristina, first-class; Hot. Anglo-Hispano; Hot. Marina; Brit, vice-cons., W. J. Smith; pop. 13,300), a small town on the W. margin of the bay of that name, is a winter resort of English and American visitors. The famous Morocco Conference (comp. p. 96) of 1906 was held in the Casa Consistorial or town-hall.—Local steamer to Ceuta, see p. 102.

The train for Bobadilla, soon after starting, crosses the rivers _Palmones_ and _Guadarranque_. To the right we have a final view of the Bay of Algeciras and the African coast. Beyond (8¾ M.) _San Roque_ we traverse extensive plantations of cork-trees (p. 171). 26 M. _Jimena_; 36 M. _Gaucin_, in the _Guadiaro Valley_, the station for the little town high up on the hills, 5½ M. to the E.—We next pass through the romantic _Guadiaro Ravine_, and through many tunnels under the slopes of the _Sierra de Ronda_, and skirt the foot of the barren limestone slopes of the _Sierra de Libar_.

65½ M. =Ronda= (2460 ft.; Rail. Restaur.; Hot. Reina Victoria, first-class, pens. from 17½ or 20 p.; Hot. Royal, in the new town, English, pens. from 12½ p., good; pop. 19,000), one of the most interesting towns in Spain, occupying a plateau girdled by grand mountains. From the station we follow the Carrera de Espinel to the W. to the Calle de Castelar, the main street of the new town, and the _Plaza de Toros_ (bull-ring). From the railed-in platforms of the _Paseo de la Merced_, a park a little to the N.W. of the plaza, we enjoy a fine view, with the foaming _Guadalevin_, or Guadiaro, some 660 ft, below us. The _Puente Nuevo_, crossing at the S. end of the main street (p. 56) from the new town to the old town, affords a splendid view of the *_Ravine_ of the Guadalevin (_El Tajo_, ‘the cutting’), about 330 ft. deep and filled with the spray of the river. The bed of the latter is strewn with rocks and the abrupt sides of the gorge are thickly overgrown with cactus.

The train descends between olives and cork-trees into the valley of the _Guadalete_ (p. 59), and then cuts through the last N. spurs of the S. Andalusian Mts.

110 M. =Bobadilla= (1240 ft.; Rail. Restaur.) is the junction for Cordova (see R. 9), Granada (see R. 9), and Málaga (R. 11).

We follow the Cordova line as far as (124½ M.) _La Roda_ (comp. p. 72; change carr.), and then turn to the W. to (147 M.) _Osuna_ and (166½ M.) _Marchena_, junction of the Utrera and Cordova line (p. 59). We next cross the _Guadaira_ (p. 59) and pass (184 M.) _Empalme de Morón_. At (194 M.) =Utrera= (Rail. Restaur.; change carr.) we join the Cadiz and Seville line (R. 6 b).

The train now runs to the N.W., mostly through fertile land (oranges, pomegranates, olives), and crosses the Guadaira.

214 M. _Seville_ (Estación San Bernardo or de Cádiz), see p. 59.

b. Viâ Tangier and Cadiz.

FROM (GIBRALTAR) ALGECIRAS TO CADIZ. Steamers of the _Vapores Correos
de Africa_ (agents at Gibraltar and Algeciras, see p. 53; at Tangier,
p. 98; at Cadiz, p. 58) from Algeciras (steamboats from Gibraltar, see
p. 56) every morning except on Mon. & Frid. (from Cadiz daily except
on Sun. & Thurs.) to (3 hrs.) Tangier and (9 hrs.) Cadiz (fares 1st
cl. 30 p., 2nd cl. 23 p.; to Tangier only 15 or 12 p.). From Gibraltar
to Tangier there ply on Tues., Thurs., and Wed. the small
cargo-steamers of the _Bland Line_ (about 2¼ hrs.; 10 or 5 p.).
Steamers of the _Hall Line_ ply weekly and those of the Royal Mail
Steam Packet and the Oldenburg-Portuguese lines mentioned at p. 104,
as well as of the Navigation Mixte, ply occasionally to Cadiz. The
voyage to Cadiz viâ Tangier is picturesque in itself, and it affords
also a most interesting glimpse of Moorish-Mohammedan life at Tangier.
On the other hand the steamboat communication is uncertain in stormy
weather, and to many travellers the voyage, especially in the smaller
vessels, is very trying.

FROM CADIZ TO SEVILLE, 95 M., railway in 3¼–5¼ hrs. (fares 19 p. 80,
14 p. 50, 8 p. 70 c.). Railway Restaurant at Utrera only.

For _Algeciras_ and the voyage through the _Straits_, see pp. 56, 5. As far as Tarifa the steamers usually skirt the Andalusian coast, and then strike across the straits to the semicircular _Bay of Tangier_, which is bounded on the E. by _Cape Malabata_.

=Tangier=, see p. 98.

After leaving the Bay of Tangier we sight _Cape Spartel_ (p. 102) on the coast of Morocco. In clear weather we command a beautiful retrospect of the mountainous coast, as far as the Sierra Bullones (p. 103). Opposite, on the Spanish coast, where the hills gradually recede, at the N.W. end of the shallow _Bay of Barbate_, rises _Cape Trafalgar_, the _Promontorium Junonis_ of the Romans and _Taraf al-Ghâr_ (‘cape of caverns’) of the Moors. The tall lighthouse on the cape is visible at night from a distance of 22 M. It was here, on 21st Oct. 1805, that _Nelson_ won the brilliant victory over the combined French and Spanish fleets under _Villeneuve_ and _Gravina_ that cost him his life and made Britain mistress of the seas.

Farther along the sandy coast, are the little town of _Conil_ and the insignificant _Cape Roche_, beyond which we sight _San Fernando_ (p. 59). At length, rising out of the blue sea, appear the lofty quays and the white houses of _Cadiz_, overtopped by the cathedral, a beautiful sight in sunny weather. We steer round _Fort San Sebastián_, skirt the cliffs of _Los Cochinos_ and _Las Puercas_, and enter the broad _Bay of Cadiz_.

=Cadiz.=—ARRIVAL. Passengers of the Vapores Correos de Africa steamers
are landed in tenders gratis, but heavy luggage is taken ashore by
special boats according to tariff. The _mandadero_, or porter, usually
gets ½–1 p. for taking luggage to the _Aduana_ (custom-house) or to
the hotel.—The RAILWAY STATION (_Estación_) lies at the harbour.

HOTELS (comp. p. 51). _Hôt. de France_, Plaza de Loreto, pens. from
12½ p.; _Hôt. Continental_, Calle del Duque de Tetuán 23; _Hôt. de
Cadiz_, Plaza de la Constitución, pens. from 10 p.

CAFÉS. _Cervecería Inglesa_, Plaza de la Constitución, corner of Calle
del Duque de Tetuán; _Café Imperial_, Calle del Duque de Tetuán 6;
_Cervecería Alemana_, Calle Zorrilla 2.

POST OFFICE (_Correo_), Calle del Sacramento 1.—TELEGRAPH OFFICE,
Alameda de Apodaca 20.

BANKERS. _Ant. Sicre & Co._ (Agents of Crédit Lyonnais), Calle Diego
de Cádiz 5; _Amaro Duarte & Co._, Plaza de Mina 18.—MONEY CHANGERS.
_Casa de Cambio_, Calle de San Francisco 8 and 16.

CONSULS. British Vice-Consul, _R. A. Calvert_, Alameda 20.—U. S.
Consular Agent, _J. Sanderson_, Alameda 12.—LLOYD’S AGENT, _H.
MacPherson_, San Ginés 6.

STEAMBOAT LINES. _Hall Line_, weekly from London to Lisbon, Cadiz,
Gibraltar, and Málaga (comp. pp. 1, 89); the _Compañía Trasatlántica_
(office in the Calle Isabel la Católica) has a Philippine Line
(monthly from Liverpool to Lisbon, etc.; comp. p. 1), a Canary Line,
and several others; _Vapores Correos de Africa_ (agent, Antonio
Millán), comp. p. 57; steamers of the _Austro-American Line_ (office,
Viuda de R. Alcon) ply between Trieste, Almería, Las Palmas, and
Buenos Ayres; _Navegación é Industria_ (Viuda de R. Alcon), for the
Canaries.

_Cadiz_, Span. _Cádiz_, the _Gadîr_ of the Phœnicians and _Gades_ of the Romans, now a provincial capital of 64,100 inhab., and a fortress, is most picturesquely situated on a low limestone rock, which was once an island, on the W. side of the Bay of Cadiz.

From the harbour or from the railway-station we cross the Plaza Isabel Segunda either to the Calle Alonso el Sábio and the _Cathedral_ (Catedral Nueva), or to the Calle del Sacramento, leading to the _Torre del Vigía_ or _de Tavira_, 102 ft. high, which is accessible only by special permission of the Capitania del Puerto (Calle de Aduana). The top (151 steps; fee 30–50 c.) commands an excellent survey of the town, surrounded almost entirely by the sea, with its flat-roofed houses and their _miradores_ or belvederes.

The Calle Sagasta, the second side-street off the Calle del Sacramento, leads to the right into the Calle del Duque de Tetuán, the chief artery of traffic, which ends in the busy Plaza de la Constitución to the N.W. A little to the N.E., in the pretty Plaza de Mina, is the _Academia de Bellas Artes_, the picture-gallery of which contains several admirable works by Murillo, Zurbarán, and other masters. (Adm. 9–3, in summer 7–4; Sun. and holidays 10–3.)

On the N. outskirts of the town are the beautiful *Gardens of the _Alameda de Apodaca_ and the _Parque Genovés_, with their fine palms. On the S. side of the town, not far from the W. end of the shadeless Paseo del Sur, rises the former Capuchin convent-church of _Santa Catalina_ (ring on the left in the adjacent court; adm. 20 c.), containing Murillo’s last work, the *Betrothal of St. Catharine.

The RAILWAY TO SEVILLE runs along the narrow neck of land which connects Cadiz with the mainland, rounds the Bay of Cadiz, passing between salt-marshes, where salt is obtained by evaporation, and then strikes across the delta of the _Guadalete_. The chief stations are the naval harbour of _San Fernando_, the sea-baths of _Puerto Real_, and the _Puerto de Santa María_ (‘El Puerto’). Turning to the N.E., the train now runs through a hilly country to (30½ M.) _Jerez_ (or _Xeres_) _de la Frontera_, the third-richest town in Spain, with 52,500 inhab., far-famed for its ‘sherry’.

Our next run is through moor, alternating with fertile tracts, to (75 M.) =Utrera= (p. 57), junction for La Roda (and Bobadilla, R. 6 a), and also for the direct line to Cordova. Lastly, we cross the _Guadaira_ to (95 M.) _Seville_ (Estación de Cádiz, see below).

7. Seville.

=Railway Stations.= 1. _Estación San Bernardo or de Cádiz_ (Pl. F, G,
1; Rail. Restaur.), for the line to Utrera (Cadiz, Granada,
Málaga).—2. _Estación de Córdoba_ or _de Madrid_ (Pl. D, 5, 6;
Restaur.), near the Guadalquivir. Hotel carriages and cabs at both.
Tariff, see p. 60.

=Hotels= (comp. p. 51). *HOT. DE MADRID (Pl. a; D, E, 4), Calle de
Méndez Núñes 2, with dépendance (Pl. b; D, 4), in the Plaza del
Pacífico, pens. from 12½ (in spring 15) p.; *HOT. DE INGLATERRA (Pl.
f; E, 4), Plaza Nueva 13, newly fitted up, pens. from 12½ p.; HÔT. DE
PARIS (Pl. c; D, 4), Plaza del Pacífico, with two dépendances (Pl. d),
similar charges; these three claim to be first-class.—HOT. DE ROMA
(Pl. e; D, 4), Plaza del Duque de la Victoria 6, pens. from 9 p.; HOT.
DE ORIENTE (Pl. i; E, 4), Plaza Nueva 8, pens. 7–10 p.; PENSIÓN LA
PENINSULAR (Pl. g; E, 4), Plaza Nueva 20; CECIL HOTEL (Pl. h; E, 4),
Calle de Méndez Núñez 18 & 23; HÔT. DE LA PAIX (Pl. k; E, 4), same
street, No. 11; HOT. SIMÓN (Pl. n; D, 4), Calle O’Donnell 25, pens. 7
p.; HÔT. RESTAUR. ALHAMBRA, Calle Santa María de Gracia (Pl. D,
4).—During Holy Week (semana santa) and the Feria (p. 60) charges are
doubled almost everywhere, and rooms should be secured long
beforehand.

=Cafés.= _Pasaje de Oriente_ (see below); _Cervecería Inglesa_ (Engl.
beer) and _Café de Paris_, both in the Calle de la Campana; _Perla
Chica_, near the Ayuntamiento (p. 65).—=Restaurant.= *_Pasaje de
Oriente_, Calle de las Sierpes.

The =Tramways= (_Tranvías_; cars stop where required; passengers ring
to alight) all start from the Plaza de la Constitución (Pl. E, 3). For
a general view of the city the circular lines ‘Constitución, Roario,
Macarena’ (red cross) and ‘Constitución, Puerta Real, Puerta de Jerez’
(green cross) are recommended. The ‘Línea del Parque’ runs to the park
on fine afternoons only.

Cabs. │ 1–2 pers. │ 3–4 pers.
│ by day │at night│ by day │at night
────────────────────┼────────┼────────┼────────┼────────
One-horse, per drive│1 p. │2 p. │1½ p. │2½ p.
„ per hour │2 „ │3 „ │2½ „ │4 „
Two-horse, per drive│2 „ │4 „ │2 „ │4 „
„ per hour │3 „ │5 „ │3 „ │5 „

The night hours are from midnight to sunrise. Small articles 25 c.;
trunk under 66 lbs. (30 kilos) 50 c., heavier 1 p.—During the Semana
Santa and the Feria fares are about double (but not for baggage), and
bargaining is advisable. Driving on Holy Thursday and Good Friday is
prohibited.

=Post & Telegraph Office= (_Correos y Telégrafos_; Pl. D, 4), Calle de
las Sierpes. Poste-restante hours are from 8.15 to 9.45, from 12.15 to
2.15, and 6–7 p.m.

=Banks.= _Crédit Lyonnais_, Calle de las Sierpes 87; _Banco
Hispano-Americano_, same street, No. 91; _Banco de Cartagena_, Calle
Rioja 18.

=Consuls.= British, _A. L. Keyser_, Chicarreros 10 (to the E. of the
Audiencia, Pl. E, 3); vice-consul, _A. Henderson_.—United States, _Ch.
S. Vinans_, Mercaderes 50 (Pl. E, 3); vice-consul, _C.
Karminski_.—=Lloyd’s Agent=, _José Dunipe_, Marqués de Santa Ana 14.

=English Church=, Plaza del Museo (Pl. D, 5). Services in winter.

=Theatres.= *_Teatro de San Fernando_ (Pl. D, E, 4), Calle de Tetuán,
for operas and ballet; _Teatro de Cervantes_ (Pl. C, 4), Calle Amor de
Dios, for short dramas, etc.—=Bull Ring= (_Plaza de Toros_; Pl. F, 4,
5). Famous ‘corridas’ on Easter Sunday and during the Feria.

=Church Festivals.= Most curious among these are the *Processions
(pasos) of the brotherhoods during Holy Week, which attract crowds of
spectators. They are best witnessed from the stand in front of the
town-hall (seat for the 4 days 10 p.).—The *=Feria= (18–20th April), a
picturesque popular festival, founded in 1847, is held in the Prado de
San Sebastián (Pl. G, 1, 2), where wealthy families have their own
tents.

=Sights.= Most of the churches are open in the morning only; the
_Cathedral_ (p. 63) till 12 and after 3.30. In the Sacristía de los
Cálices (p. 64) a ticket (permiso) for this sacristia, for the
Sacristía Mayor, the Sala Capitular, and the closed chapels is
obtained for 2 p. The Capilla Real is open in the forenoon only (fee
½–1 p.). The services of the importunate guides to the Cathedral and
the Giralda may be dispensed with. During Holy Week, when the churches
are open all day, the inspection of their art-treasures is scarcely
possible. Admission to collections in private houses and charitable
institutions is readily granted as a rule, but seldom without
difficulty on Sundays and holidays and during Holy Week. The usual
days and hours of admission are—

*_Alcázar_ (p. 61), week-days 11–4; tickets (1 p.) are issued at the
office at the back of the Patio de las Banderas (door No. 11).

_Casa de Pilatos_ (p. 65), daily (50 c., for the poor).

*_Giralda_ (p. 62), daily (25 c.); no one allowed to ascend alone.

*_Hospital de la Caridad_ (p. 67), daily (fee ½–1 p.); clear weather
indispensable; afternoon light best.

*_Museo Provincial_ (p. 66), daily 10–3 (in summer 10–4). On Sun. the
Archæological Museum is open till 1 only.

TWO DAYS (when time is limited). 1st. Forenoon, _Plaza de la
Constitución_ (p. 65), _Cathedral_ (p. 63), _Alcázar_ (p. 61);
afternoon, _Calle de las Sierpes_ (p. 65), _Casa de Pilatos_ (p. 65);
towards evening, ascent of the _Giralda_ (p. 62).—2nd. Forenoon,
_Museum_ (p. 66); afternoon, _Caridad_ (p. 67), _Paseo de las
Delicias_ (p. 67), and _Parque María Luisa_ (p. 68).

_Seville_, Span. _Sevilla_ (33 ft.), a city of 145,300 inhab., the capital of Andalusia and of the province of Sevilla, the seat of an Archbishop and of a University, lies in a broad plain on the left bank of the tawny _Guadalquivir_, opposite the suburb of _Triana_. At flood-tide sea-going vessels of 23 ft. draught can ascend the river to the quays of Seville, which, though 54½ M. from the sea, can thus claim to be a seaport. The harbour is annually entered by about 1000 vessels, of 1¼ millions aggregate tonnage. The city combines the features of a seaport with gay scenes of popular life and a wealth of treasures of art. The houses in the narrow winding streets, the heritage of the Moorish period, often contain charming inner courts, called _pátios_, where the inhabitants spend most of their time in summer. The larger _plazas_ or squares are mostly planted with oranges or palm-trees.

Seville, as its ancient name _Hispalis_ indicates, was originally an
Iberian settlement. Ever since the 2nd cent. B. C. its navigable river
has made Seville a place of importance. In 411 it became the capital
of the Vandals (p. 322), and in 441 the seat of the Visigoth kings,
who however migrated in 567 to the more central Toledo. During the
Moorish period Seville, alternately with Marakesh, was a favourite
residence of the Almoravides and Almohades (p. 95); and particularly
under _Yûsuf Abû Yakûb_ (1163–84) and under _Yakûb ibn Yûsuf_
(1184–98), surnamed _Al-Mansûr_ (‘the victorious’), it was embellished
with many sumptuous buildings, and for a time it even surpassed
Cordova in population. The Christian period begins with Frederick III.
(‘the saint’) of Castile, who captured the city in 1248 and made it
his residence. Among his descendants was Pedro I. (1350–69), surnamed
‘the Cruel’, of whom many anecdotes are still current. Since the
discovery of America Seville has prospered greatly and vies with Cadiz
as one of the chief ports of Spain.

At Seville were born Spain’s two greatest painters, _Velázquez_
(1599–1660; court-painter at Madrid from 1623 onwards) and _Murillo_
(1617–82). Here too is laid the scene of several famous operas:
_Mozart’s_ Don Juan and Figaro, _Rossini’s_ Barber of Seville, and
_Bizet’s_ Carmen.

See ‘Seville’, by _W. M. Gallichan_, in the ‘Mediæval Towns Series’
(London, 1903); and ‘Seville’, by _A. J. Calvert_ (London, 1907).

a. The Plaza del Triunfo with the Alcázar and the Cathedral.

We begin our walk at the PLAZA DEL TRIUNFO (Pl. F, 3), which is bounded by three imposing edifices, the Lonja on the W. side, the Alcázar on the S., and the Cathedral on the N.

The =Casa Lonja= (Pl. F, 3), the Exchange, built in the high-Renaissance style in 1583–98, contains on the upper floor the Archivo General de Indias, with the Spanish charters and deeds relating to the discovery and government of America and the Philippines. Fine view from the roof, especially of the Cathedral.

The *=Alcázar= (Pl. F, 3; adm., see p. 60), originally a castle of the Almohade Yûsuf Abû Yakûb (1181; see above), dates in its present form mainly from the time of kings Pedro I. (p. 61) and Henry II. (1369–79), who caused the castle to be restored by Moorish architects in the Mudejar style (p. 51). Later alterations date from the reigns of Charles V. (1526), Philip II. (1569), and Philip IV. (1624), while modern restorations (1857–89) have materially changed the character of the interior.

The EXTERIOR with its pinnacled corner-towers, still has the character
of a mediæval castle. From the entrance in the S.E. angle of the Plaza
del Triunfo we first cross the large Patio de las Banderas, in which
are the ticket-office and a vaulted gateway (‘apeadero’). Thence we
may proceed straight to the garden (see below), or to the right to the
Patio de la Montería, the inner court, planted with oranges and palms.
Very striking is the splendid *CHIEF FAÇADE of the inner Alcázar. The
beautiful windows and side-entrances are framed with toothed arches;
above them runs a rich stalactite frieze crowned with a far-projecting
timber roof resting on quaint corbels. Arabic inscriptions in Cufic
characters (p. 150) serve for decoration.

The APARTMENTS in the interior are grouped round the Patio de las
Doncellas (‘court of the maidens’), erected in 1369–79, but almost
entirely rebuilt under Charles V. and Philip II. The lower story is
preceded by superb Moorish arcades resting on coupled Renaissance
columns. The upper walls in open-work are richly embellished with
stucco. The chief rooms on the groundfloor are, on the S.E., the Salón
de Carlos Quinto with its fine ‘azulejos’ (or tiles) and timber
ceiling; on the S.W., the quadrangular domed *Salón de Embajadores,
also richly decorated with azulejos, and the Patio de las Muñecas
(dolls’ court), modern in its upper parts, so called from the figures
which adorn it.

From the Apeadero (see above) we may lastly visit the GARDEN of the
Alcázar, with its luxuriant vegetation, a pavilion of the time of
Charles V., a grotto, and fountains.

Returning to the Plaza del Triunfo, we face the Cathedral, with the Capilla Real (p. 64), projecting on the E., and the clock-tower at the N.E. angle of the church, the famous—

**=Giralda= (Pl. F, 3), the conspicuous landmark of the city. It was originally the minaret of the principal Moorish mosque, built in brick by the architect _Jâbir_ for Yakûb ibn Yûsuf (p. 61) in 1184–96. The tower tapers slightly towards the top and is remarkable for its harmonious proportions. It is square in form, each side being 45 ft. long, and its walls are 7 ft. thick. The upper wall-surfaces adjoining the windows, at a height of about 80 ft. above the ground, are diapered with a network of Arabesque-like sunken panels, and are further enlivened with niches. Instead of being crowned with a pinnacled platform (see altar-piece, p. 64), the tower now has a belfry (1568), capped by a small dome (305 ft.), on which stands the _Girardillo_, or vane, a bronze female figure representing Faith.

The *Ascent (p. 60) is most enjoyable towards evening. Entrance by the
door in the S.E. angle. An easy inclined plane, in 35 sections, and
ending in 16 steps, ascends to the first gallery, where the bells are
hung, and where we enjoy a very extensive view.

In the Calle de Alemanes, on the N. side of the Cathedral, is the main entrance to the *=Patio de los Naranjos= (Pl. F, 3; ‘orange-court’), once the court of the mosque. The handsome entrance-gateway, called Puerta del Perdón, dates from the Moorish period. The bronze-mounted *Doors and the knockers, in the Mudejar style, and the sculptures (1519) are additions of the Christian period. The old artesonado or coffered ceiling was replaced in 1833 by a tower.

In this picturesque court, where the faithful used to perform their ablutions at a fountain (al-mîdâ) before entering the sacred precincts, we stand opposite the Cathedral; on the right is the _Sagrario_ (p. 65); on the left is the _Biblioteca Colombina_, or cathedral library, founded in 1539 by Fernando Colón, Columbus’s son, above which towers the Giralda.

From the orange-court the cathedral may be entered by the Puerta de los Naranjos or (on the left) by the Puerta del Lagarto. It is preferable, however, to enter on the W. side, from the Calle del Gran Capitán.

The **=Cathedral= (Pl. F, 3; adm., see p. 60), one of the grandest and most sumptuous Gothic churches in the whole of Christendom, occupies the site of the principal Moorish mosque, which was erected by Yûsuf Abû Yakûb in 1171. It was begun by unknown architects in 1402, and in its chief parts was completed in 1506. The dome having collapsed in 1511, it was rebuilt from designs by _Juan Gil de Ontañón_ in 1517, and having in 1888 again fallen in it was restored by _Casanova_.

The W. FAÇADE, which was not completed till 1827, as well as the E. façade, is remarkable for the wealth of sculpture on its portals. On the two lateral gateways in particular, the Puerta del Bautismo (left) and the Puerta del Nacimiento (right), we note the beautiful terracotta figures by _Pedro Millán_ (about 1500), of semi-northern character.

The *INTERIOR has a nave with double aisles, two rows of side-chapels, a transept which does not project beyond the main walls, a choir in the centre, and a Capilla Mayor containing the high-altar. Exclusive of the Capilla Real, the church is 383 ft. long and 249 ft. in width. The nave is 53 ft. wide and 132 ft. high, the aisles are each 36 ft. wide and 85 ft. in height. The marble pavement is of the 18th cent., the fine stained glass of the 16th–19th centuries. The screen (reja) and the Gothic stalls (sillería) of the choir were almost entirely destroyed by the last collapse of the dome. The huge high-altar (retablo) in the Capilla Mayor is a masterpiece of Gothic wood-carving (1482–1564).

The SIDE CHAPELS and the SACRISTIES form a veritable museum of sculpture and painting, but are very badly lighted.

Adjoining the Puerta Mayor, the chief portal of the W. façade, are the Altar del Santo Angel, with a picture by _Murillo_ (the ‘Angel de la Guarda’ or guardian angel), and the small Altar del Nacimiento, containing admirable pictures by _Luis de Vargas_ (1502–68; ‘Adoration of the Child’ and the ‘Four Evangelists’).

The fourth chapel in the S. aisle, the Capilla de Hermenegildo, contains the fine Gothic monument of Archbp. Juan de Cervantes (d. 1453), by _Lorenzo Mercadante de Bretaña_.—In the S. transept rises the very curious sarcophagus of Columbus, placed in the cathedral of Havana in 1892 and brought to Spain in 1899. To the right stands the Altar de la Gamba, with the famous painting by _Luis de Vargas_, the so-called Generación, or Adoration of the Immaculate Conception by Adam and Eve, generally known as ‘La Gamba’, from the finely drawn and painted leg of Adam.

Through the Capilla de los Dolores we pass into the SACRISTÍA DE LOS CÁLICES, built in the late-Gothic style by _Diego de Riaño_ (d. 1533) and _Martin Gainza_ (d. 1566), where we obtain tickets of admission to the closed chapels, etc. (see p. 60). In front of us is a famous *Crucifix, by _Martínez Montañés_ (d. 1649), the most typical of Andalusian sculptors; on the left are a SS. Justa and Rufina, by _Goya_ (1817), and St. Dorothea by _Murillo_. On the window-wall is St. John the Evangelist, by _Zurbarán_.

Adjacent to the Antesala is the *SACRISTÍA MAYOR, a magnificent room in the plateresque style, also built, after 1532, by _Riaño_ and _Gainza_, containing the rich treasury of the cathedral and three valuable pictures, a Descent from the Cross, by _Pedro Campaña_ (1548), and SS. Leander and Isidore by _Murillo_.

The Capilla del Mariscal possesses an altar-piece in ten sections, the Presentation in the Temple, by _Pedro Campaña_.

The elliptical *SALA CAPITULAR, begun by _Riaño_ and _Gainza_ in 1530 but not finished till after 1582, has a Doric entablature resting on Ionic mural columns, while the decoration is plateresque (Span. Renaissance). The eight ovals between the windows and the fine picture of the Immaculate Conception are by _Murillo_.

On the E. side of the church we pass through a high railing (1773) into the CAPILLA REAL (adm., see p. 60), a Renaissance edifice by _Gainza_ and others (1551–75), on the site of the old royal vaults. By the entrance, right and left, are the tombs of Alfonso the Wise (d. 1284) and his mother Queen Beatrice of Swabia. In the apse is preserved the reliquary of St. Ferdinand (Ferdinand III. of Castile; p. 69), who, as well as Pedro I., is interred in the ‘Panteón’ under the chapel.

In the N. aisle, beyond the Puerta del Lagarto (p. 63) is the Capilla de los Evangelistas, whose altar-piece is by _Ferd. Sturm_ (1559); on the predella, to the left, below, are SS. Justa and Rufina with the Giralda in its original form (p. 62). In the Capilla de Santiago (St. James) is a *Picture of that saint, by _Juan de las Roelas_ (1609). Most famous of all is a **_Murillo_ in the Capilla del Bautisterio (forenoon light best), the Infant Christ appearing to St. Antony of Padua (1656).

The Puerta del Sagrario, the last door on the N. side of the cathedral, leads into the =Sagrario=, built as a parish-church in the baroque style in 1618–62, with a single vault 75 ft. high. The altar-piece on the left is a fine half-figure of the Mater Dolorosa by _Montañés_.

b. The Central and Eastern Quarters.

The lively Calle Génova or Cánovas del Castillo leads from the Cathedral to the PLAZA DE LA CONSTITUCIÓN (Pl. E, 3), the focus of the city traffic. On the right is the _Audiencia_, containing the law-courts; on the left, between this plaza and the large Plaza Nueva or de San Fernando (Pl. E, 4), rises the—

*=Casa del Ayuntamiento= (Pl. E, 4), or town-hall, a Renaissance edifice (1526–64) designed by _Diego de Riaño_ (p. 64). The richly decorated S. part is one of the most charming creations of the plateresque style.

At the Audiencia begins the *CALLE DE LAS SIERPES (Pl. E, D, 3), or ‘street of serpents’, so named after the sign-board of an old inn. It contains the chief cafés and clubs and the largest shops, and it presents a very lively scene in the evening.

This street forms the best starting-point for a walk through the E. quarters of the town. The first lateral street on the right, the Calle Sagasta, leads to the church of _San Salvador_ (Pl. D, E, 3), which contains a statue of Christ by Montañés (2nd altar on the right). From the S.E. angle of that church the Cuesta del Rosario leads to—

_San Isidoro_ (Pl. E, 3), where at the high-altar a celebrated masterpiece by Roelas, the Death of St. Isidore (El Tránsito), was once closely studied by Murillo.—From San Isidoro the Calle Almirante Hoyos and Calle de Aguilas, which contain several fine patios, lead to the Plaza de Pilatos.

The *=Casa de Pilatos= (Pl. E, 2; adm., see p. 60), the property of the Duque de Medinaceli, was probably begun early in the 16th cent. by Christian-Moorish architects for the Ribera family. As a member of that family had been to Jerusalem, the building was popularly supposed to be a copy of Pilate’s house. The architecture shows a curious but harmonious blend of Moorish, Gothic, and Renaissance elements.