Chapter IX: The Black Sea (1)

Route Page
82. From Constantinople to Constantza 561
83. From Constantinople to Odessa 563
84. From Odessa to Batum 568
Yalta, 569.
85. From Batum to Constantinople 571

The =Black Sea= (Turk. _Kara Denis_; Russ. _Chornoye More_; p. xxxiv), the _Pontus Euxinus_ of the ancients, sometimes deserves its name for the dark-blue hue of its waters, which is markedly different from the blue of the Mediterranean. Its area, nearly equal to that of the Baltic, amounts to 163,689 sq. M., without including the 14,519 sq. M. of the _Sea of Azov_ (p. xxxiv) which is united with the Black Sea by the narrow Straits of Kertch (p. 570) and separated from the shallow Gulf of Odessa (p. 564) by the Crimean Peninsula. The basin proper of the Black Sea is a huge depression, falling away rapidly from its margin to its centre, where it reaches a depth of ca. 7365 ft. Its flow and ebb are not perceptible. Owing to the great rivers it receives its surface-water is but slightly salt (1.8 per cent), but the deep water is more saline (2.2 to 2.3 per cent). The bottom is coated with black mud impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen and is therefore entirely destitute of animal life. On warm summer nights the phosphorescence of the water is very observable. As in the Mediterranean, the vessels are often followed by dolphins.

During almost the whole of summer gentle N. and N.E. winds, with a clear sky, prevail in the S.W. part of the Black Sea. At other seasons the wind is very variable. The N.W. and W. winds often bring fog, which makes the entrance of the Bosporus difficult. In winter and about the time of the equinox dangerous storms from the S. and S.E. are by no means rare.

82. From Constantinople to Constantza.

224 M. STEAMBOATS (agents at Constantinople, see pp. 538, 539; at
Constantza, see p. 563). =1.= _Royal Rumanian State Maritime Service_
(Serviciul Maritim Român; in correspondence with the North German
Lloyd; comp. R. 76), from Constantinople on Tues. and Sat. aft. in 14
hrs. (from Constantza on Sun. and Thurs. night in 12 hrs.; comp. p.
563); fare 55 or 35 fr.—=2.= _Austrian Lloyd_ (for Odessa and
Nikolayev) from Constantinople every other Sat. aft. viâ Burgas (from
Constantza on Thurs. night viâ Varna), in about 1½ days (fare 51 fr.,
20 fr.; in the reverse direction 44 fr., 20 fr.); also by Line Braila
B, from Constantinople every other Frid. aft. viâ Varna, in 2 days
(from Constantza direct to Constantinople Wed. aft., in 19 hrs.); fare
58 (back, 46) or 25 fr. (without food in 2nd cabin).—=3.= _Società
Nazionale_, Line XIII (for Braila), from Constantinople Sun. aft.
(from Constantza Mon. aft.), in 17 hrs. (fare 40 or 28 fr.).

For _Constantinople_ and the voyage through the _Bosporus_, see p. 536 and pp. 557–560.

The Rumanian and Italian vessels pursue a N. course through the _Black Sea_, long affording fine retrospects of the precipitous shores of Anatolia and the fissured promontories of the Rumelian coast.

Steering to the N.W. the Odessa steamer of the Austrian Lloyd reaches the open sea off _Rumelí Fanar_ (p. 560). It again, however, approaches the Rumelian coast abreast of _Cape Iniada_ (Turk. _Kuru Burnu_), the _Thynias Promontorium_ of the ancients.

Beyond the far-projecting _Cape Kuratan_ or _Zeitün Burnu_ (lights), belonging to _S. Bulgaria_ (formerly _E. Rumelia_), opens the wide _Gulf of Burgas_. We pass the peninsula of _Sozopolis_ and the lighthouses of the islands of _Megalo Nisi_ and _Anastasia_, and enter the _Bay of Burgas_, which runs deeply into the land from the middle of the gulf.

=Burgas= (Hôt. Commercial, etc.), the modern Greek _Pyrgos_, is the chief harbour of S. Bulgaria (11,700 inhab.) and lies at the head of the bay between large lagoons. The harbour is tolerably sheltered from the E. wind by two moles. The chief exports are grain and attar of roses.

In continuing our voyage we pass the peninsula of _Mesembriya_ (the ancient _Mesembria_) and _Cape Emine_ (lighthouse), the N. horn of the Bay of Burgas, forming a spur of the well-wooded _Little Balkan Range_, the old frontier between E. Rumelia and Bulgaria.

On the N. margin of the Balkan Mts. lies =Varna=, the ancient _Odessos_, now the chief seaport of Bulgaria (pop. 35,000), where some of the Austrian Lloyd steamers call. The entrance to the bay of Varna, open towards the E., is bounded on the S. by _Cape Galata_ (_Galata Burnu_; lighthouse) and on the N. by _Cape St. George_. The anchorage, between two long moles, is similar to that of Burgas. The _Devna Canal_ connects the bay with _Lake Devna_.

Farther on the steamer rounds _Cape Kaliakra_ (Turk. _Chiliga Burnu_; lighthouse), jutting far to the S., and rejoins the course of the direct steamer from the Bosporus to Constantza. Next comes _Cape Shabla_ (lights), 10–12 M. to the N. of which lies the village of _Ilanjik_, on the border between Bulgaria and the Rumanian _Dobruja_. At night the position of the flat coast is revealed by the lights of the small port of _Mangalia_ and of _Cape Tusla_, stretching in front of the lagoon of Mangalia.

After a short halt in the open roads all the steamers pass through the entrance to the harbour of _Constantza_ and moor alongside the quays of the E. mole. The landing-place of the Rumanian mail-steamers (see below) is close to the harbour-station.

=Constantza.=—HOTELS (crowded in the latter half of Aug. and in
Sept.). _Hôt. Carol I._, at the E. end of the headland, of the first
class, with garden, R. 6–10, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5 fr. (_lei_);
_Regina_, _Raynier_, etc.

POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE, to the E. of the chief railway-station;
branch-office at the harbour.—CAB 2 lei.

STEAMBOAT AGENCIES. _Rumanian State Maritime Service_ (see below), at
the landing-stage; _Austrian Lloyd_, H. Rappaport; _Società
Nazionale_, E. Tozzi.

BRITISH VICE-CONSUL, _Lionel E. Keyser_.—LLOYD’S AGENTS, _Watson &
Youell_.

_Constantza_ (Ruman. _Constanţa_, Turk. _Küstenjeh_), a seaport with 17,000 inhab. and in summer a popular Rumanian seaside-resort (see below), lies on a small tongue of land rising boldly from the sea and enclosing with the E. mole (1500 yds.) a sickle-shaped harbour. The latter, which is always free from ice, is not yet quite complete. Beside the S. mole is the so-called petroleum-harbour. Petroleum, agricultural produce, and timber are the chief exports.

From the harbour-station the chief promenade of the town leads past the _Cathedral_ (left) and the new _Municipal Casino_ (right) to the _Lighthouse_ at the E. end of the promontory. In the Piaţa Independenţei (Independence Square), at the narrowest part of the peninsula, rises a monument to _Ovid_, who died in exile at the neighbouring _Tomi_ (afterwards _Constantiana_) in 17 A.D.

In summer there is a train-service to (½ hr.) _Mamaia_, with a large
bathing-establishment.

The sailings (Sun. & Thurs.) and arrivals (Sun. & Wed.) of the
Rumanian mail-boats are in connection with the arrivals and departures
(at and from the harbour-station) of the Ostende-Vienna Express, the
Berlin Rapide, and the Bukarest Express.

83. From Constantinople to Odessa.

397 M. STEAMBOATS (agents at Constantinople, see pp. 538, 539; at
Odessa, p. 565). =1.= _North German Lloyd_ (Mediterranean & Levant
Service, RR. 23, 24, 77, 80), to Odessa (and Batum) every other Sun.
evening in 1½ days (48 or 32 marks).—=2.= _Russian Steam Navigation &
Trading Co._: (a) by the direct Alexandria line (p. 491) from
Constantinople Mon. (from Odessa Thurs.) foren., in 29 hrs. (80 or 50
fr.); (b) Two circular lines to Syria and Egypt (p. 466), each every
other Thurs. or Frid. aft. (from Odessa Sat.), in ca. 1½ days (same
fares); (c) Anatolian Line (p. 571) from Constantinople every other
Sat. (from Odessa Mon.) aft., in ca. 1½ days (68 or 42 fr., without
food).—=3.= _Austrian Lloyd_ (Odessa and Nikolayev Line) from
Constantinople every other Sat. aft. viâ Burgas (p. 562) and
Constantza (see above), in 2½ days (fares, 1st class 78 fr., 2nd
class, without meals, 30 fr.). On the return trips (3¼ days) the boats
leave Odessa on Wed. aft. and call at Constantza and Varna (p.
562).—=4.= _Società Nazionale_, Lines X & XI (Genoa to Odessa), from
Constantinople Thurs. aft. (from Odessa Frid. even.), sometimes
calling at Burgas or Constantza, in ca. 1½ days (fare 60 or 47
fr.).—=5.= _Messageries Maritimes_ (Marseilles to Odessa), from
Constantinople Mon. (from Odessa Wed.) in 3 days (60 or 40 fr.).

For Russian money, see p. 565.—Russian time is that of E. Europe (p.
537).

For _Constantinople_ and the voyage through the _Bosporus_, see p. 536 and pp. 557–560.

The direct boats steer to the N.N.E. across the Black Sea (p. 561) all the way to the _Gulf of Odessa_ (p. xxxiv). Opposite the mouths of the Danube and about 26 M. from the coast-town of _Kilia_ we sight, on the left, the _Isle of Serpents_ (Ruman. _Ins. Serpilor_, Greek _Fidonisi_), a bare islet of limestone rock, with a lighthouse, belonging to Rumania.

The flat coast of Bessarabia, with its numerous lagoons (Russ. _Liman_); is visible only in clear weather.

On the _Dniester Liman_, or great lagoon of the _Dniester_, lie the towns of _Akkerman_ (the ancient _Tyras_) and _Ovidiopol_ and the lighthouse at the mouth of the _Zaregrad_, beyond which we approach the abrupt edge of the great steppe of S. Russia, which is intersected by deep defiles known as Ovrági or Bálki. Important landmarks are the _Kovalevski Tower_, once the water-tower at Lustdorf (p. 568), and the lighthouses on the promontory of _Bolshoi Fontan_, at the Great Fountain (p. 568).

Nearing the _Harbour of Odessa_ we have a good view of the whole sea-front of the city and of the series of villas (datshas) between the Great Fountain and Cape Lansheron. The steamer passes the _Vorontsóv Lighthouse_ on the outer mole (p. 566) and then anchors in the ‘quarantine harbour’.

=Odessa.=—ARRIVAL BY SEA. The examination of passports and luggage,
which not even the passenger bound for more distant places escapes,
occupies a considerable time. If the steamer is not berthed at the
quay passengers are landed by small boat (40 copecks, with baggage 50
cop.; in stormy weather 60–75 cop.) at the Platonovsky Mole (Pl. E, 4,
5). Passengers going straight on by railway should take a cab direct
to the main railway-station (70 cop., with pair 1 roub. 40 cop., incl.
luggage; see p. 565).

The =Main Railway Station= (Grande Gare; Pl. D, 7, 8) is the terminus
of through EXPRESS TRAINS from Berlin viâ Oderberg, Cracow, Lemberg,
Podvoloczyska, and Shmerinka (41 hrs.; fare 130 or 82 marks) and viâ
Alexandrovo, Warsaw, Brest, Rovno, Kasatin, and Shmerinka (42 hrs.;
fare 122 marks 95 or 75 marks 90 pfennige), and from Vienna viâ
Oderberg and Podvoloczyska (35½ hrs.).

=Hotels.= *LONDON (Pl. b; D, 5), Nikoláyevsky Boul. 11, with sea-view,
R. from 2½ roub., B. 60 cop., déj. (11–3) 1, D. (3–8) 2 roub.; *ST.
PETERSBURG (Pl. c; D, 4), corner of Yekateríninskaya and Nikoláyevsky
Boul., also with sea-view, R. from 2½, B. ½, déj. (11–1) ¾, D. (1–7)
1¼ roub.; *BRISTOL (Pl. i; D, 5), corner of Púshkinskaya and
Kondratenko Sts., R. 1½–15 roub., B. 60 cop., déj. (11–2) ¾, D. (1–8)
1–2 roub.; *YEVROPÉISKAYA (Pl. d; D, 5), Púshkinskaya 4, commercial,
R. from 1½, B. ½, déj. (11–1) ¾, D. (1–7) 1¼ roub.—HÔT. DE PARIS
(Paríshskaya; Pl. f, D 5), Púshkinskaya 8; HÔT. PASSAGE, cor. of
Deribássovskaya and Preobrashénskaya (Pl. C, 5), etc.

=Restaurants= at the *_London_, *_Yevropéiskaya_, *_Bristol_, and _St.
Petersburg_ hotels; also _Alexander Park_ (p. 568), in summer only,
with beautiful view; _Nikoláyevsky Boulevard_ (p. 566; in summer),
déj. 60 cop., D. ¾–1 roub.; _Exchange_ (p. 568), D. 60 cop.; _Bruhns_
(luncheon rooms), Deribássovskaya 16 (in the court).

=Cafés.= _Fanconi_, corner of Yekateríninskaya and Deribássovskaya
(Pl. D, 5; newspapers); _Robinat_, Yekateríninskaya, near Nikoláyevsky
Boul. (Pl. D, 5); _Liebmann_, corner of Preobrashénskaya and
Deribássovskaya (Pl. C, D, 5); _Palais Royal_, Lansherónovskaya (Pl.
D, 5), café-restaurant, D. 50 cop.

=Cabs= (Isvóshtshik). To the Main Railway Station, with luggage, 35
cop.; to or from the Quarantine Harbour, with luggage, 70 cop.; drive
in the town 20, per hour 50, each addit. ½ hr. 25 cop.; to Lansherón
30 cop.; to the Small, to the Middle, and to the Great Fountains 75
cop., 1 roub. 10, 1 roub. 50 cop.—_Carriage and Pair_ (‘phaeton’) cost
double the above mentioned fares.

=Tramways= (horse) from the _Main Railway Station_ (Pl. D, 7) through
Rishelyévskaya, Lansherónovskaya, and Khersónskaya to the _Hospital_
(Pl. B, C, 3); from the _Old Churchyard_ (Pl. C, 8) to a point below
the _Voyénny-Spusk_ (Pl. D, 4), every 5 min.; from corner of
_Preobrashénskaya_ and _Malaya Arnaútskaya_ (Pl. C, 7) to the _Little
Fountain_ (p. 568), every 10 min. in ¾ hr. (with branch to _Arkadia_);
from corner of _Kanátnaya_ and _Skóbelevskaya_ (Pl. E, 6) to
_Lansherón_ (p. 568), every 10 minutes.—=Electric Tramway= from the
_Greek Bazaar_ (Pl. 2; D, 5) to _Lansherón_ (p. 568), every 3
minutes.—=Steam Tramway= from _Kulikóvo Póle_ (Pl. D, 8) to the _Great
Fountain_ (p. 568), every 25 min., in ¾ hr. (15 cop. to the Middle
Fountain, 20 cop. to the Great).

=General Post & Telegraph Office= (Pl. 24; C, 4, 5), Sadóvaya 8 (poste
restante upstairs, to the left). Foreign letters 10, post-cards 4 cop.

=Banks.= _Imperial_ (Pl. 1; D, 6), Shúkovskaya 9 (open 9.30–3);
_Chayés_, Rishelyévskaya; _Crédit Lyonnais_, corner of Rishelyévskaya
and Lansherónovskaya (Pl. D, 5; 10–4).—=Money.= The Russian roubel,
divided into 100 copecks, is worth about 2_s._ 2_d._—MONEY CHANGER.
_Gruber_, Deribássovskaya (Pl. D, 5).—=Booksellers.= _Becker & Wedde_,
_Berndt_, both in Deribássovskaya.

=Sea Baths= at Lansherón (stony), the Fountains, Arkadia, Lustdorf
(more open sea), and other places.

=Consuls.= British Consul-General, _Ch. S. Smith_, Kanatnaya 31.—U. S.
Consul, _J. H. Grout_, same street, No. 33; vice-consul, _A. W.
Smith_.

=Police Headquarters=, Preobrashénskaya 38 (Pl. 23; C, 5).

=Steamboat Agents.= _North German Lloyd_ and _German Levant Line_,
McNabb, Rougier, & Co.; _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._,
Lansherónowskaya 5; _Austrian Lloyd_, Regir; _Società Nazionale_,
Vitale & Gallian; _Messageries Maritimes_, C. Muntz.

=Theatres.= _Town Theatre_ (Pl. 29; D, 5), Theatre Square, operas and
dramas; _Sibiryakóv Theatre_ (‘Theatre’; Pl. C, 4), corner of
Khersónskaya and Kónnaya, for operas and plays.—PLEASURE RESORTS.
_Hôt. du Nord_; _Alexander Park_ (p. 568); _Arkadia_ (p. 568); _Little
Fountain_ (p. 568).—_Circus Truzzi_ (Pl. 4; C, 4), also a theatre of
varieties.—_English Club_ (Pl. 6; D, 5).

=English Church=, Remeslennaya 15 (Pl. D, 6, 7).

SIGHTS (one day or less). Nikoláyevsky Boulevard and Monument of
Catharine (p. 567); drive through Yekateríninskaya, Preobrashénskaya,
Deribássovskaya. and Púshkinskaya (as far as the Exchange); Alexander
Park (p. 568) and Lansherón (p. 568).

_Odessa_ (154 ft.), in the province of Khersón, is the chief commercial and industrial place on the Black Sea and the fourth-largest town of the Russian Empire (pop. 500,000, including at least 175,000 Jews). It is the seat of an archbishop of the Greek church and of a modern Russian University, and it is the headquarters of the 8th army-corps. It lies in 46°28′ N. lat. and 30°45′ E. long, and extends for a distance of about 4 M. over the elevated and treeless steppe. The winter climate is consequently very severe (mean temperature in Jan. 25° Fahr., July 73°, annual mean 49°). Its wide and well-paved streets, crossing each other at right angles and generally planted with trees, make it one of the most regularly laid out and most handsome cities in Russia. Attractive parks have been as it were wrested from the barren soil by dint of untiring perseverance and unstinted care.

The rescript in which Catharine II. ordered the foundation of the town
was dated May, 1794, and its foundation-stone was laid by Admiral J.
de Ribas in August of the same year. The new city, which sprang up on
the site of the small Tartar and Turkish village of _Chadshibéy_, was
probably named after the Sarmatian harbour of _Odessos_ which is said
to have lain in this neighbourhood. From 1817 to 1859 Odessa was a
free harbour. It was greatly improved by the efforts of two of its
governors, the Duc de Richelieu (1803–14) and Prince Vorontsóv
(1823–54). During the Crimean war the town was attacked unsuccessfully
by the British and French fleets in 1854, and the blockade by Turkish
war-ships in 1876–7 was equally fruitless. The excesses of the
revolution of 1905 were nowhere more ghastly than at Odessa.

The =Harbour= (347 acres in area), which in winter has sometimes to be kept open by ice-breakers, consists of an outer harbour (154 acres) and five inner basins. Effective protection against all sea-winds is afforded by a breakwater (1334 yds. long), the quarantine mole (1120 yds. long), and the so-called roadstead mole (710 yds. long), forming a continuation of the last. The so-called _Quarantine Harbour_ (Pl. E, F, 5) is for foreign vessels; the _New Harbour_ (Pl. E, 4), between the Platonovsky and New moles, and the _Coal Harbour_ (Pl. D, E, 4) are for Russian traders; the _Practical Harbour_ (Pl. D, 3, 4) is for coasting vessels. To the N. of the town, opposite the suburb of _Peressyp_, where a second breakwater and new docks are projected, lies the _Petroleum Harbour_.

Opposite the New Mole (Pl. E, 4) is a massive _Flight of Granite Steps_ (193 in number) ascending to the level of the town. It is adjoined by a wire-rope elevator (3 or 2 cop.).

The finest feature of this part of the town is the *=Nikoláyevsky Boulevard= (Pl. D, E, 4, 5), a broad street ¼ M. in length, which stretches along the margin of the plateau above the harbour, commanding an unimpeded view of the sea. It is bounded on one side by a series of handsome buildings, on the other by four rows of trees and pleasant grounds. In spring this is the rendezvous of the fashionable world, just as the Deribássovskaya (p. 567) is in winter. Towards the N. the houses end with the _Vorontsóv Palace_. The _Imperial Palace_ (Pl. D, 5) is also the residence of the general in command of the Odessa Military District. At the entrance to the Yekateríninskaya a bronze statue of the _Duc de Richelieu_ (Pl. 32; see above) was erected in 1826.

A little to the S.W., in Catharine Square, rises the _Monument of Empress Catharine II._ (Pl. 31; D, 4), by Dmítrenko and Popóv (1900). Round the pedestal bearing the bronze statue of the empress are figures of Prince Potémkin (in front), Count Súbov (on the right), Col. de Volant (left), and Admiral J. de Ribas (at the back). The monument is 35 ft. high.

From this point the Yekateríninskaya, one of the main streets of the city, leads towards the S. Just beyond the Theatre Square (see below) we turn to the right and follow the DERIBÁSSOVSKAYA (Pl. C, D, 5), a short street with the finest shops in Odessa, skirting the _Deribássov Garden_, to the—

SOBÓRNAYA SQUARE (Pl. C, 5), with its pleasure-grounds and fountain. On the W. side of the square rises the _Cathedral of the Transfiguration_ (Pl. 13), founded in 1794, in length 114, in breadth 46 yds., and 164 ft. high. It has a dome, rising over the centre, and a tower 266 ft. high. In the interior, to the right of the main entrance, is the tomb of Prince Vorontsóv (d. 1856; see below).—In the grounds to the N. of the church is a bronze statue of _Prince Vorontsóv_ (Pl. 22; p. 566), by Brugger (1863).—On its E. side the square is skirted by the _Preobrashénskaya_ (Pl. C, D, 7–4), the longest street in the town.

To the N. of the Sobórnaya Square diverges from the last-named street to the N.W. the Khersónskaya, with the building of the _New Russian University_ (Pl. 30; C, 4), which was opened in 1865 and contains archæological, natural history, and other collections (open on Sun. 12–2).—At the N. end of the Torgóvaya (Pl. B, C, 4, 5) is the _Rússov Picture Gallery_, with modern Russian paintings (shown on application).

At the end of the Sadóvaya is the NEW BAZAAR SQUARE (Pl. C, 4), where a market is held daily. The _Market Hall_ is overshadowed by a massive building of 1847, the large _Sryétenskaya_ or _Novobasárnaya Church_ (Pl. 18), with five domes.

We return by Deribássovskaya to the THEATRE SQUARE. The handsome =Town Theatre= (Pl. 29; D, 5) was erected by the Viennese architects _Fellner_ and _Hellmer_ (1887).

A few paces to the W. of Theatre Square, at the S. end of the Nikoláyevsky Boulevard (p. 566), rises the TOWN HALL (_Dúma_; Pl. 7, D, E, 5), an edifice in the Greek style, with a portico of twelve columns. Adjacent are a fountain with a bronze bust of the poet _Alexander Púshkin_ (1799–1837; p. 570) and a cannon from the British man-of-war ‘Tiger’, sunk in 1854.

In the square in front of the Dúma is the _Museum of Antiquities_ (Pl. 3; D, 5), with objects found at the Greek colonies on the Black Sea.

From the Dúma the PÚSHKINSKAYA leads to the _Main Railway Station_ (p. 564). To the left, at the corner of the Kondratenko Street, is the _Exchange_ (Pl. 5; D, 6), a tasteful erection by Bernadazzi (1899).

To the E. of the E. end of the Kondratenko Street, above the Quarantine Harbour (p. 566), lies the =Alexander Park= (Pl. E, 5, 6; restaurant, see p. 565), a popular resort where open-air concerts take place in summer in favourable weather. The _Monument of Alexander II._, a tall column of labradorite, commemorates a visit of that monarch in 1875. About ½ M. farther out is _Lansherón_, a sea-bathing place (tramway, see p. 565).

From Lansherón a series of villas (datshas) and private gardens extends along the sea to the _Little Fountain_ (tramway), with a garden-restaurant (band) and good sea-bathing, _Arkadia_ (tramway; band), the _Middle Fountain_ (steam-tramway, see p. 565; excellent beach), and the _Great Fountain_ (reached from the terminus of the steam-tramway by cab, 20–30 cop.), a village with the extensive _Uspénskiy Monastery_, the goal of an annual pilgrimage. These three villages take their name from a spring which once supplied Odessa with water.

Still farther to the S. is the German colony of _Lustdorf_ or _Olgino_, with vineyards and frequented sea-baths (tramway from the Great Fountain in 20 min., fare 20 cop.; cab 1½–2 roub.).

See also _Baedeker’s Russland_ or _Baedeker’s Russie_ (not yet
published in English).

84. From Odessa to Batum.

723 M. STEAMSHIP LINES (agents at Odessa, see p. 565; at Batum, see p.
570). =1.= _North German Lloyd_ (Mediterranean & Levant Service; p.
563), from Odessa to Batum (and Constantinople) every fourth Monday.
Passengers between the two Russian ports are not carried. Fares from
Constantinople as at p. 571.—=2.= _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading
Co._ (direct Crimea and Caucasus Line) from Odessa to Batum every Mon.
aft. or even. (from Batum every Sun. night), viâ Sebastopol, Yalta,
Feodóssiya, and Novorossysk, in 4 days (1st cl. 41¾ roub.).

_Odessa_, see p. 564. The LLOYD STEAMERS pursue a S.E. course, straight towards _Cape Chersonese_ (see p. 569).

The flat _Cape Tarkhankut_ (lighthouse), the W. extremity of the =Crimea= (p. xxxiv) or _Tauric Peninsula_ (the ancient _Chersonesus Taurica_), remains out of sight. On the S.E. the _Yaila Mts._, extending to the _Chatyr-Dagh_ (4990 ft.), gradually come into view, along with the hilly district in front of them sloping thence to the rolling steppes in the N. part of the Crimea.

In clear weather we may descry to the E. _Cape Constantine_, the N. horn of the _Bay of Sebastopol_ (Russ. _Sevastópol_), the best natural harbour of the Black Sea, measuring about 4½ M. from side to side. The higher parts of the town of _Sebastopol_, the chief naval harbour of S. Russia, famous for its siege (1854–5) during the Crimean War, also are visible.

As soon as we have rounded the flat _Cape Chersonese_ (lighthouse), the S.W. extremity of the Crimea, we see before us the S. coast of the peninsula, rising gradually to the precipices of Cape Aiya.

To the left rises _Cape Fiolente_, the _Parthenium_ of the ancients, the supposed site of the sanctuary of Artemis in which Iphigenia served as priestess. Beyond it, above the steep and wooded shore, is _St. George’s Monastery_, founded in 988.

In the distance, between bare rocks on either hand, is the narrow entrance to the _Bay of Balaclava_, supposed to correspond with Homer’s description of the Læstrygonian Bay (Odyss. X, 86–94). The picturesque little town of _Balaclava_, the ancient _Symbolon Portus_ and the seat in the middle ages of the Genoese colony of _Cémbalo_, was the chief base of the British army in the Crimean war, famed for the gallant charge of the Light Brigade (25th Oct., 1854), commemorated by Tennyson.

Beyond _Cape Aiya_ (1919 ft.), which in clear weather is visible for some 68 M., opens the _Bay of Laspi_, enclosed by the W. spurs of the Yaila Mts.

When abreast of _Cape Sarýtsh_ (lighthouse), the S. point of the Crimea, below the _Church of Foros_ and the _Baidar Gate_ (1634 ft.; celebrated for its view), the Lloyd vessels pursue an E.S.E. course direct for Batum. The picturesque and exuberantly fertile coast of the so-called _Russian Riviera_ lies to our left, but all that we can descry are the precipitous _Cape Kikeneïs_, the range of the _Ai-Petri_ (4046 ft.), and the distant Cape Ai-Todór (see below).

The RUSSIAN STEAMER calls first at _Sebastopol_ (p. 568) and beyond
Cape Sarýtsh steers near the coast. The chief points visible are
_Mshátka_, _Miláss_ (recognizable by its four towers), Cape Kikeneïs
(see above), and the lofty and abrupt cliff of _Divo_, below _Lemény_.
We soon sight the superb château of Alúpka (p. 570), with Mt.
Ai-Petri, the white Moorish château of _Julber_, and _Cape Ai-Todór_,
with the villa of Schwalbennest.

Beyond the headland Yálta is disclosed to view. In the distance to the
N.E. rises _Ayu-Dagh_ (‘bear hill’; 1854 ft.). We pass Oreánda and
Livadia (p. 570) and land at the mole of—

=Yálta.=—HOTELS. *_Rossíya_ (Pl. a), R. from 2–3, B. ¾, D. 1¼ roub.;
_Fránziya_ (Pl. c). rather cheaper; _Hôt. de Yalta_ (Pl. d), in a high
site, good, R. from 1½ roub., D. from 80 cop. to 1 roub.; _Márino_
(Pl. i); _Oreánda_; _Métropole_; _Grand-Hôtel_ (Pl. f),
etc.—RESTAURANT in the public gardens D. ½–1 roub.

CABS (good ‘phaetons’ and pair). Drive in the town (also to or from
harbour) 20–50 cop. (luggage 10 cop.); hour 70, each addit. ½ hr. 30
cop.—POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE, at the Oreánda Hotel (see above).—SEA
BATHS (10–15 cop.), on the Nábereshnaya (stony beach).—The Yalta
section of the _Club Alpin de Crimée_ arranges, from April to Oct.,
drives (fare 1½ roub.) and walks in the environs. In the club-house
(Pl. 3; with museum and meteorological station), beside the
police-bridge, the programme for the week may be consulted.

_Yálta_ or _Jálta_, the capital of a district, with 20,000 inhab.,
most picturesquely situated in a bay formed by the spurs of the abrupt
Yaila Mts. (p. 568), is the most fashionable watering-place in the
Crimea (mean annual temperature 57° Fahr.). The Nábereshnaya or Marine
Esplanade and the adjacent shady town-garden (20 cop.) are the chief
promenades.

To the E. of Yalta, and reached in 1 hr. by the upper road to Gursuff
(see below), is the (3 M.) beautiful park of *_Lower Massándra_ (carr.
there and back 1 roub. 60 cop.; adm. by season-tickets which are
issued free of charge at the director’s office on week-days, 9–12 and
2–5). Adjacent, on the N.E., is _Upper Massándra_, with a small
imperial château.—To the E. of Lower Massándra are the vineyards of
_Maharátsh_ and (4½ M. from Yalta) _Nikíta_, with an interesting
acclimatization-garden, founded in 1812.

In beautiful grounds about 2 M. to the S.W. of Yalta are the two
imperial palaces of _Livádia_. Adm. on week-days, 9–12 and 2–5, on
showing one’s passport at the director’s office. From the park of
Livadia we may next go by the ‘Lower Road’ to the adjoining park of
_Oreánda_ (carr. from Yalta 3 roub. 20 cop.), which likewise is
imperial property. Since it was burned in 1882 the castle has remained
a ruin. A good view is obtained from the _Krestóvaya Gorá_ (614 ft.)
or ‘Hill of the Holy Cross’.

About 11 M. to the S.W. of Yalta (carr. 3 roub. 20 cop.; also local
steamers), on the coast, lies _Alúpka_, with a beautiful park and a
château in the Gothic-Moorish style, built by Blore in 1837 for Prince
Vorontsóv (p. 566).—About 9 M. to the N.E. of Yalta is _Gursuff_
(carr. 5 roub. 60 cop.; also local steamers), in a charming situation,
with good sea-baths. In the former château of the Duc de Richelieu
Púshkin (p. 567) lived in 1820.

Beyond Yalta the direct Russian steamers continue their voyage along
the coast, which farther on becomes increasingly level, to
_Feodossiya_ or _Theodosia_ (p. xxxiv), the chief commercial port of
the Crimea. Hence they steer to the S.E., leaving the _Straits of
Kertch_ (see below) to the left, to the beautifully situated seaport
of _Novorossysk_. From the last port to _Batum_ the steamers follow a
similar course to that of the Lloyd Steamers described below.

See also _Baedeker’s Russland_ or _Russie_ (no English edition).

The LLOYD STEAMER now makes for the open sea, leaving the _Straits of Kertch_ or _Yeníkale_ (the ancient _Cimmerian Bosporus_), the entrance to the Sea of Azov (p. 561), far to port (left).

The S.W. slope of the _Great Caucasus_, the mighty frontier-wall between Europe and Asia, which has been almost uninhabited since the emigration of the Circassians in 1865, does not become visible until we are abreast of _Gagry_. When we are nearly opposite the mouth of the Ingúr we may descry in clear weather the two snowy domes of the volcanic _Elbruz_, or, as it is sometimes called, _Elburz_ (18,468 ft.), the chief height of the _Central Caucasus_.

As the boat holds its course in the direction of _Batum_ the _Ajara Mts._ (_Lazistan_, p. 571), belonging to the _Little Caucasus_ (‘Armenian Highlands’) rise to the E., separated from the Great Caucasus by the ancient land of _Colchis_, the marshy plain of the _Rion_ (the ancient _Phasis_). The _Harbour of Batum_, opening to the N., is inadequately sheltered from the W. and S.W. storms of winter by _Cape Batum_ (lighthouse).

=Batum.=—ARRIVAL. All the steamers are moored alongside the quay; hand
baggage 5 cop., heavy luggage 10 cop. each package.

HOTELS. _Fránziya_, Micháilovskaya; _Impérial_, Kutaïskaya, R. 1½–10,
B. ½ roub.; _Oriental_, Nábereshnaya.—POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE,
Maríinsky Prospekt.—CAB from harbour or station to town 40, drive 25,
hour 60 cop.

CONSULS. British, _P. W. J. Stevens_.—United States, _A. Heingartner_;
vice-consul, _E. Mattievich_.

STEAMBOAT AGENTS. _North German Lloyd_, Schutz & Zimmermann; _Russian
Steam Navigation & Trading Co._, Arkadaksky; _Austrian Lloyd_,
Marcetich; _Messageries Maritimes_, De Cortenze; _Società Nazionale_,
Valazzi; _N. Paquet & Co._, Victor d’Arnaud.

_Batum_, a town of ca. 30,000 inhab., was the ancient _Bathys_, a place of little importance. In modern times, under the name of _Bathumi_, it was a Turkish frontier-fortress down to 1878. By the terms of the Berlin Congress of that year it passed to Russia (along with Kars), and it is now the strongly-fortified capital of the Russian province of its own name. The town, which has the most important harbour on the E. coast of the Black Sea, owes its present prosperity to the construction of the railway to Bakú, on the Caspian Sea. The staples of its trade are petroleum products (annual exports 1¼ million tons), manganese ore, liquorice, silk-cocoons, and wool. Along the beach runs the _Boulevard_, above which to the S. rises the _Alexander Névsky Cathedral_, built in 1903. About ¾ M. to the S. lies the _Railway Station_, and near by is a _Roman Catholic Church_. In the W. part of the town, on _Lake Nurie_, is the _Alexander Park_, with subtropical vegetation.

To the S.W. of the town, beyond Cape Batum, is the marshy and fever-stricken _Delta of the Chorokh_.

See also _Baedeker’s Russland_ or _Russie_ (no English edition).

85. From Batum to Constantinople.

726 M. STEAMSHIP LINES (agents at Batum, see p. 570; at
Constantinople, see pp. 538, 539). =1.= _North German Lloyd_
(Mediterranean & Levant Service; p. 563), from Batum every alternate
Sat., in 4 days, viâ Trebizond, Samsun, and (if required) Ineboli
(fare 80 or 56 marks).—=2.= _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._
(Anatolian line), from Batum every other Thurs. night (from
Constantinople Frid. aft.) viâ Rizeh, Trebizond, Kerasun, Ordu,
Samsun, Sinope, and Ineboli, in 6½ days (fare 112 or 84 fr., food
extra).—=3.= _Austrian Lloyd_, from Batum Frid. midnight (from
Constantinople Sat. aft.) viâ Rizeh, Trebizond, Kerasun, Samsun, and
Ineboli, in 5½ days (fare 130; 2nd class, food extra, 48 fr.).—=4.=
_Messageries Maritimes_, from Batum every second Wed. evening (from
Constantinople Mon.) viâ Trebizond and Samsun, in 5 days (fare 100 or
60 fr.).—=5.= _N. Paquet & Co._, from Batum every second Thurs. (from
Constantinople Tues.) viâ Trebizond and Samsun, in 5 days (fare 100 or
60 fr.).—=6.= _Società Nazionale_ (Line IX), from Batum every other
Tues. even, (from Constantinople Thurs. aft.) viâ Trebizond, Kerasun,
Samsun, and Ineboli, in 4½–5 days (fares 93 fr. 70, 62 fr. 50 c.).

Most of the Austrian, French, and Italian vessels are small old
cargo-boats. The S. coast of the Black Sea is often visited by
dangerous tempests, especially in winter.—For Turkish money, see p.
536.

_Batum_, see p. 570. Long after starting we continue to enjoy, in clear weather, a grand *View of the snow-clad central chain of the _Great Caucasus_ (p. 570). The rugged mountains of the _Lazistan_, covered with snow in winter, become visible as far as the _Kolat Dagh_ (about 7540 ft.) and are equally impressive. There are numerous small towns on the coast, but the only one called at by the steamers is _Rizeh_ (the ancient _Rhizūs_), the first seaport beyond the Turkish frontier, which is almost hidden by a forest of fruit-trees.

We next pass the headland _Erekli Burnu_. As we near Trebizond we see the delta of the brook _Piksit Su_ or _Matshka_ (the ancient _Pyxites_), where, according to a vague tradition, the ten thousand Greeks under Xenophon encamped in 400 B.C. on their retreat from Persia (comp. pp. 574, 576).

* * * * *

=Trebizond.=—ARRIVAL. The landing, which takes place at the pier
adjoining the custom-house (Pl. C, 1), is often attended by vexatious
delays and also, if there is a strong wind blowing from the sea, by
considerable difficulty.

HOTELS. _Pens. Marengo_ (Pl. b; B, 1), on the E. hill, with fine
views, well spoken of; _Hôt. Suisse_ (Pl. a; B, 1), on the Hurriyet
Meïdan; pens. in both 6–10 fr.

AUSTRIAN POST OFFICE (Pl. B, 1), near the Hurriyet Meïdan.—STEAMBOAT
AGENTS, at the harbour.—BANKS. _Banque Ottomane_ (p. 539); _Banque
d’Athènes_.

CONSULATES. British (Pl. 15; B, 2): consul, _H. Z. Longworth_.—United
States (Pl. 16; B, 2): consul, _M. A. Jewett_; vice-consul, _I.
Montesanto_.

_Trebizond_, the Turkish _Tirabson_ or _Tarábosan_, the seat of the governor-general of the viláyet of the same name and of a Greek and an Armenian archbishop, is, next to Samsun, the most important seaport on the N. coast of Asia Minor. It contains 35,000 inhab., including Greeks, Turks, Armenians, Persians, and Lazis, who speak a dialect resembling the languages of the S. Caucasus. _Trapezūs_, founded by Milesians from Sinope (7th cent. B.C.?), was named after the ‘table’-shaped (‘trápeza’) castle-hill (p. 573). Next to the mother-city it was the most important Greek colony in what afterwards became the kingdom of Pontus (p. 575), and was the seat of a governor in the Byzantine period. After the conquest of Constantinople by the Crusaders (p. 542) it became the capital of the small Greek empire of the _Comneni_, the last of whom, _David Comnenus_, was overthrown by Mohammed II. (p. 542) in 1461.

Trebizond is picturesquely situated on three low ridges at the N. base of _Boz Tepeh_ (800 ft.), an outlier of the mountains extending thence to the S. to the Kolat Dagh (p. 571). The small harbour facilitates trade with the towns of the hinterland (_e. g._ Gümüshkhaneh), but it is only partly protected against sea-winds by the pier at _Kalmek Point_ and a new breakwater at the headland of _Eleusa_. Notwithstanding the competition of Batum and the Trans-Caucasian railway Trebizond still carries on a considerable camel-caravan traffic with the Armenian highlands (Erzerum) and N. Persia (Tabriz).

The trade and industry of Trebizond are concentrated in the new town on the EAST HILL, above the harbour. Beyond Kalmek Point, on which are a battery, a lighthouse, and the _Güzel Seraï_ (Pl. B, C, 1; now artillery-barracks), lies the Greek quarter, which encloses the Frank quarter, the seat of the European wholesale merchants. On a small promontory projecting from the N. shore rises the _Greek Cathedral_ (Pl. 6; B, 1).

A little to the N. of the _Hurriyet Meïdan_, with its pleasure-grounds (Pl. 12; B, 1), runs one of the main streets leading to the W. to the BAZAARS (Pl. A, B, 1), or market quarter, which presents a lively scene, especially in the early morning. The most interesting stalls are those of the coppersmiths and of the native goldsmiths, whose works in gold and silver filigree are sold by weight.

KEY TO NUMBERS. _Cemeteries_ (all C, 2): 1. Armenian-Catholic; 2.
Greek; 3. Latin (see p. 475); 4. Protestant.—_Mosques_ and _Churches_:
5. Aï Yaneh, B 1; 6. Greek Cathedral, B 1; 7. Great Mosque, A, B 1; 8.
Kathunieh Mosque, A 1; 9. Orta Hissar Jamissi, A 1; 10. St. Basilius,
B 1.—11. Yeni Juma Jamissi (St. Eugenius), A 2; 12. Grounds in the
Hurriyet Meïdan, B 1.—13. Seraï, A 1.—14. Zendan Kapusí, A 1.—15.
British Consulate, B 2.—16. United States Consulate, B 2.

Near the _Aï Yaneh Church_ (Pl. 5; B, 1), to the S. of the Bazaars, we leave behind us the Usun Sokak and pass over a _Viaduct_ (fine view) leading to the old CASTLE HILL, rising between the two ravines of the _Kuzgun Deresí_ and the _Iskeleboz Deresí_. This is now occupied by the Turkish town proper and contains the ruins of the _Byzantine Town Walls_.

The chief artery of traffic leads through the _Orta Hissar_ (Pl. A, 1, 2) or older and central part of the castle. It passes (left) the SERAÏ (Pl. 13; A, 1), the seat of the governor-general, and (right) the mosque of _Orta Hissar Jamissi_ (Pl. 9; A, 1), once the church of _Panagia Chrysokephalos_, said to have been founded by Justinian.

At the Seraï a street diverging to the left leads to the _Yokari Hissar_ (Pl. A, 2), or old upper castle, with the ruins of the imperial palace of the Comneni.—On the N. side of the Seraï various crooked lanes descend through the _Ashagi Hissar_ (Pl. A, 1), or lower castle, the wall of which projects over the W. ravine, to the _Fishing Harbour_, the ancient harbour of Trapezūs, where remains of an almost semicircular quay are still visible under water The appearance of the fishing-boats is very quaint.

Through the _Zendan Kapusí_ (Pl. 14; A, 1), or W. gate, we pass from the Seraï over a second viaduct to the WEST HILL. Here lie (on the left) the picturesque _Turkish Cemetery_ and a suburb occupied by Turks and Greeks. Beyond the infantry-barracks, at the W. end of this suburb, rises the old _Aya Sóphia Church_, now a mosque.

Beautiful *VIEWS are obtained from the caves of _Kirk Batal_ (Pl. B,
C, 2), on the slope of Boz Tepeh (p. 572), above the Greek cemetery,
and from the high-lying Greek nunnery of _Panaya Theoskepastos_ (Turk.
_Kizlar Monastir_; Pl. B, 2).

A pleasant DRIVE (or walk or ride) may be taken to the hill of
_Suk-Su_ in the S.W. with the summer-residences of the wealthier
Greeks; or to the W. along the coast to (1 hr.) _Platana_ (see below;
motor-omn. 15 pias.; carr. there and back 40–50 pias.); or to the S.,
through the _Pyxites Valley_ (p. 572), following a road traversed by
many camel-caravans, and ascending steeply to (4 hrs.) _Jevislik_
(carr. there and back 80 pias.; provisions should be taken).

* * * * *

Beyond Trebizond the STEAMER passes the little port of _Platana_, the ancient _Hermonassa_, with a good roadstead, protected against the W. and N.W. winds. The lofty _Cape Yoros_ or _Ieros_ (ancient _Hieron_; lighthouse), is visible for some 65 M. and is locally regarded as an infallible barometer.

=Tireboli=, the _Tripolis_ of the Greeks, the next seaport, now a quiet little town with 5000 inhab., lies, like Kerasun, amid the magnificent rocky scenery of the spurs of the _Sis Dagh_ (9220 ft.) and the _Chal Dagh_ (6450 ft.), the summits of which are often covered with snow. Roads lead thence inland to the towns of _Gümüshkhaneh_ and _Karahissar_.

Farther on, beyond _Cape Zephyros_ (Turk. _Zefireh Burnu_) we reach the seaport of =Kerasun= or _Kerasund_ (Turk. _Kiresün_, Greek _Kireson_), founded under the name of _Kerasūs_ by the Milesians of Sinope and now a town of about 18,000 inhabitants. Like Trebizond it was one of the resting-places of the Ten Thousand under Xenophon (p. 572). Its situation on and behind a small peninsula (about 425 ft.; lighthouse), which used to be fortified, and backed by superb mountains is very picturesque. The poor anchorage of the steamers is on the W. side of the peninsula, near the pier and the custom-house. Owing to the want of good communication with the hinterland its maritime commerce is insignificant.

The steamers seldom call at _Ordu_, the ancient _Kotyora_, but steer across the _Bay of Vona_, the winter quarters of most of the sailing-vessels on this coast, which is admirably sheltered by _Cape Vona_ (_Boōna Promontorium_; lighthouse).

Beyond _Yasun Burnu_ (_Jasonium Promontorium_), the name of which commemorates the legendary voyage of Jason and the Argonauts (see p. 560), the coast recedes far to the S.

Without touching at the little seaport of _Üniyeh_ or _Unia_ (once _Œnoē_), the steamer passes the _Chiva_ or _Chalti Burnu_ (_Heracleum Promontorium_) and the large delta of the _Yeshil Irmak_ (formerly _Iris_; beacon), which is navigable for small vessels in winter only, and steers direct towards the broad _Bay of Samsun_ (landing or embarkation 7½ pias.), which is enclosed by low hills clad with plantations of tobacco and maize.

=Samsun.=—HOTEL. _Mantika_, near the Banque Ottomane, R. 2–5, pens. 15
fr. (bargain advisable).— _Restaurant Yanni_, near the
tobacco-factory.

BANKS. _Banque Ottomane_, _Banque d’Athènes_, _Banque de
Salonique_.—POST OFFICES. _Turkish_, _French_, and others, near the
custom-house.

CONSULS. British, _B. Ch. Papadopulos_.—United States Consular Agent,
_William Peter_.

_Samsun_, a town with about 30,000 inhab., was in antiquity an important Greek colony under the name of _Amisus_ and is now the chief trading-place on the N. coast of Asia Minor. The chief exports are tobacco, flour, grain, and linseed. The manufactured goods it imports are forwarded mainly by trains of wagons or camels to such inland places as Mersifun, Amasia (once Amasea, the home of Strabo), Tokat (Comana), Sivas (Sebastia), and Kaisarieh (Cæsarea).

From the custom-house we turn to the left to the _Market Place_ with its clock-tower. A well-paved street leads thence to the _Banque Ottomane_. Farther to the E., on the shore, are the _Seraï_ (see p. 483) and several _Consulates_. The attractive _Villa Quarter_, occupied by Armenian and Greek merchants, conveys an impression of great prosperity.

Beyond Samsun the sandy coast juts out far towards the N.W. We pass the strip of land separating the sea from the large lagoon _Ak Göl_, the vicinity of which is infested by fever. _Cape Bafra_ (beacon), a little farther on, is near the delta of the _Kizil Irmak_ (_Halys_), which in B.C. 301–183 formed the boundary between the kingdom of _Pontus_ and _Paphlagonia_. Though the largest river in Asia Minor the Kizil Irmak is not navigable.

Beyond the month of the Halys we come to a broad semicircular bay. On its N. shore, beyond the peninsula of _Boz Tepeh Burnu_ (about 650 ft.; beacon), is a tongue of land on which stands =Sinōpe= (Turk. _Sinob_), the oldest of the colonies established on the coast of the Black Sea by the Greeks of Miletus (p. 491) and long the most powerful. Sinope was the home of Diogenes the Cynic (about B. C. 412–323). Here Xenophon’s Ten Thousand (p. 574) took ship on their way back to Byzantium (p. 541) at the conclusion of the toilsome Anabasis. It was also the residence of Mithridates VI. (B. C. 120–63; comp. p. 507), the last king of Pontus, who was famous both for his linguistic accomplishments and his military powers. He extended his sway over the whole of Asia Minor and the Crimea (p. 568), but was finally subdued by the Romans in three hardfought campaigns. Sinope, formerly the starting-point of an important caravan-route to Cappadocia and the lands of the Euphrates, now possesses, notwithstanding its excellent harbour, little more than the shadow of its former greatness. The poor little town, inhabited by about 8000 Greeks and Turks, entirely lacks roads to the interior. The barracks at the W. end of the headland serve as a quarantine lazaretto.

We next steam past _Injeh Burun_ (_Syrias Promontorium_; beacon), the northmost point of Asia Minor, and skirt a hilly, well-wooded, but thinly peopled stretch of the shore.

=Ineboli= (_Ionopolis_), the chief seaport of this part of the coast, situated on the little river of that same name, is a poor little town with Turkish timber-built houses (p. 542) and a ruined castle. The roads, with their breakwater in ruins, are exposed to every wind and are often inaccessible in winter for days together. A road leads hence to (ca. 50 M.) _Kastamuni_, the present capital of the ancient Paphlagonia.

The small ports beyond _Cape Kerembe_ (_Carambis Promontorium_; lights), where the coast again turns to the S.W., are not touched at by the large steamers.

Farther on, in the ancient _Bithynia_, appear the prominent _Cape Baba_ (_Acherusia Promontorium_; beacon) and _Cape Kirpe_ or _Kerpe_, with the small island of _Kirpe_ (_Thynias_; beacon). Near Cape Baba lay the important Greek colony of _Heraclea Pontica_, now called _Erekli_ or _Bender Eregli_.

Farther on is the _Yum Burnu_ (p. 560), which is visible at a distance of 17 M. and marks the N. entrance to the Bosporus.

For the passage of the _Bosporus_ and the arrival in _Constantinople_, see pp. 560–558 and p. 536.

INDEX

Abbas (Abbès), 387.

Abbâsîyeh, 459.

Abda, 109.

Abdalajis, Sierra de, 72.

Abd el-Kader, Anse d’, 262.

El-Abîd, 206.

Abruzzi, 428.

Abu Hammâd, 438.

Abukîr, Fort, 418.

Abu Nemrûs, 464.

Abusîr (near Alexandria), 418.

— (near Cairo), 464.

Abydos, 534.

Abyla, 54.

Acherit, Forêt d’, 266.

Acherusia Promontorium, 576.

Acho, Monte del, 103.

Acholla, 370.

Aci Castello, 159.

Acif Djerra, 258.

— el-Hammam, 261.

— Tléta, 254.

Acireale, 158.

Acre, 469.

—, Bay of, 468.

Acrite, 490.

Acroceraunian Mts., 496.

Adeje, 42.

Adélia, 211.

Adeni, 257.

Ad Fratres, 198.

Adjeroud, 125.

El-Adjiba, 251.

Adjim, 394.

Ad Piscinam, 283.

Adramyti, 533.

Adrianopolis, 413.

Ad Septem Fratres, 103.

Aduares, Barranco, 48.

Ægadean Islands, 153.

Ægaleon, Mt., 502.

Ægaleos, Mt., 494.

Ægean Sea, 490.

Ægimurus, 153.

Ægina, Bay of, 494.

Ægion, 501.

Ægospotamoi, 534.

Ægusa, 153.

Ælia Aurelia Augusta Mactaris, 360.

— Capitolina, 472.

Æolian Islands, 155.

Æthalia, 143.

Æthusa, 396.

Ætna, Mt., 159.

Afdalah, 107.

Affreville, 210.

El-Affroun, 213.

Agadie, 267.

Agâdir (Morocco), 110.

— (near Tlemcen), 196.

Agbia, 357.

Aggarsel Nepte, 387.

Aggersel, 365.

Agha, 217.

Aghir, 394.

Agua, Cabo del, 124.

— García, Forest of, 38.

— Mansa, 40.

Aguia, Penha d’, 27.

Ahaggar, Highlands of, 169.

Aidour, Pic d’, 182.

Aiguades, Anse des, 265.

Aiguille, Pointe de l’, 125, 126.

Aïn-Abessa, 269.

— -Abid, 306.

— -Affra, 312.

— -Amara, 306.

— el-Arba, 184.

— -Beïda, 273.

— -Bessem, 250.

— Bou-Ras, 354.

— -Dalia (Morocco), 102.

— -Daliah (near Bona), 303.

— -Douz, 197.

— -Draham, 327.

— -Fakroun, 272.

— -Fezza, 186.

— Fîjeh, 484.

— -Garci, 365.

— -Ghrasesia, 370.

— -el-Hadjadj, 203.

— -el-Hadjar (Algeria), 201.

— el-Hajar (Morocco), 110.

— -Hallouf, 365.

— el-Hamda, 269.

— el-Hammam, 273.

— -Hedja, 357.

— el-Ibel, 215.

— el-Jedida, 102.

— -Khamouda, 371.

— -Kial, 185.

— -Kissa, 315.

— -Mader, 392.

— -Meslout, 206.

— -Mesria, 362.

— -Mimoun, 273.

— -M’Lila, 274.

— -Mokra, 303.

— -Moularès, 372.

— -Naga, 284.

— -Oussara, 215.

— -Regada, 306.

— -Rharsalla, 357.

— -Rhelal, 351.

— -Roua, 269.

— -Roumi, 328.

— -St. Charles, 307.

— -Sefra, 202.

— -Sennour, 312.

— -Sfissifa, 203.

— -Smara, 272.

— -Sultan, 258.

— -Tahamimine, 312.

— -Talaouart, 269.

— -Talazit, 215.

— -Tassera, 271.

— -Taya, 248.

— -Tédelès, 207.

— -Tellout, 186.

— -Temouchent, 185.

— -Tounga, 354.

— -et-Turk, 184.

— -Tzadert, 206.

— -Yagout, 274.

— -Zannouch, 383.

— -Zatout, 278.

— -Zeft, 208.

Ai-Petri, 569.

Aït Akerma Mts., 260.

— -Atelli, 258.

— -Frah, 258.

— -Krelifa, 258.

— -Lahssen, 258.

— -Larbâa, 257.

— -Mellal, 259.

Ai-Todór, Cape, 569.

Aït-Ouabane, 259.

— -Saada, 259.

— -Touddeurt, 258.

— Yahia, 258.

Aivaly, 533.

Aiya, Cape, 569.

Ajaccio, Bay of, 133.

Ajara Mts., 570.

Akbou, 251.

Akfadou, Forêt d’, 261.

Ak Göl, 575.

El-Akhouat, 360.

Akinti Burnu, 558.

Akir, 470.

Akka (Akko), 469.

Akkerman, 564.

Akmês, Pointe, 131.

Akouda, 366.

Akrotiri, 489.

Aktē (headland), 494.

Alassio, 113.

Alban Mts., 135.

Albania, 496.

Albâtre, Montagne d’, 278.

Albenga, 113.

Alboasa, Cape, 123.

Alborán, 117.

Albufeira, 5.

Albulae, 185.

Alcántara, the, 158.

Alcázar, Punta, 123.

Aleih, 483.

Alexandreia Troas, 533.

Alexandria, 431, xxxiii.

Algarve, 5.

Algeciras, 56.

—, Bay of, 6.

Algeria, 168.

=Algiers=, 217.
Académie, 228.
Agha-Inférieur, 232.
— -Supérieur, 228.
Archevêché, 224.
Arrière-Port, 223.
Avenue Bab el-Oued, 224.
— Malakoff, 236.
Belcourt, 232.
El-Biar, 234.
Birmandreis, 231.
Birtraria, 234.
Bois de Boulogne, 230.
Boulevard Bru, 231.
— Carnot, 222.
— de France, 222.
— de la République, 222.
— de la Victoire, 227.
— Laferrière, 226.
— Valée, 228.
Bouzaréah, 235.
—, Mont, 235.
Cabs, 218.
Campagne Bellevue, 231.
Cemeteries, 227, 231, 232, 236.
Champ de Manœuvres, 232.
Château d’Hydra, 231.
— -Neuf, 234.
Chemin de Maclay, 231.
— du Télemly, 230.
Chéraga, 234.
Churches:
Cathedral, 225.
English, 230, 220.
Notre-Dame d’Afrique, 236.
— des Victoires, 224.
St. Augustin, 226.
Scottish, 228, 220.
Cimetière d’el-Kettar, 227.
— de Mustapha, 231.
— Musulman de Belcourt, 232.
Cité Bugeaud, 234.
Colonne Voirol, 230.
Conseil Général, 224.
Consuls, 219.
Dâr Soof, 225.
Dépêche Algérienne, 226.
Deux-Moulins, 236.
English Cemetery, 231.
— Church, 230, 220.
Escaliers de la Pêcherie, 223.
— du Bastion Central, 223.
Fish Market, 223.
Fontaine du Hamma, 232.
Forêt de Baïnem, 235.
Fort de la Bouzaréah, 235.
— des Anglais, 236.
— des Arcades, 231.
— Duperré, 236.
— l’Empereur, 234.
Frais-Vallon, 234.
Gouvernement, Bureaux du, 225.
Grotte de Cervantes, 232.
Hamma, Le, 232.
Harbour, 222.
Hôpital Militaire du Dey, 235.
Hotels, 217.
Hussein-Dey, 233.
Jardin d’Essai, 232.
— du Hamma, 232.
— Marengo, 224.
Jenina, 224.
Jetée du Nord, 222.
Jewish Cemetery, 236.
Kasba, 227.
Kouba, 233.
Kursaal Theatre, 224.
Lycée National, 224.
Marché de Chartres, 226.
— de la Lyre, 226.
Medersa, 228.
Monuments:
Duke of Orleans, 223.
Mac Mahon, 230.
Marshal Bugeaud, 226.
Mosques:
Great, 224.
Ketshâwa, 225.
Mozabites, 226.
de la Pêcherie, 223.
Sidi Abderrahmân, 228.
— Mohammed ech-Chériff, 227.
Musée Municipal des Beaux-Arts, 226.
Museum, 229.
Mustapha-Inférieur, 232.
— -Supérieur, 228.
National Library, 225.
Observatoire, 235.
Orphelinat St. Vincent-de-Paul, 230.
Oued bel-Elzar, 234.
— Knis, 231.
— M’Kacel, 234.
Palais Consulaire, 223.
— de Justice, 226.
— de l’Amirauté, 223.
— d’Eté du Gouverneur, 230.
— d’Hiver du Gouverneur, 225.
Phare, 223.
Place de la République, 222.
— du Gouvernement, 223.
— Malakoff, 224.
Plaine de Mustapha, 228.
Plateau Saulière, 228.
Porte du Sahel, 233.
Post Office, 219, 226.
Préfecture, 222.
Presqu’île de l’Amirauté, 223.
Quai de la Marine, 222.
Quartier Bab el-Oued, 234.
— de l’Esplanade, 236.
— des Tagarins, 228.
— d’Isly, 230.
Railway Stations, 217.
Rampe de l’Amirauté, 223.
Rampes Chasseloup-Laubat, 223.
— Magenta, 223.
Ratto, Dwelling House of M., 225.
Ravin de la Femme Sauvage, 231.
— des Sept-Sources, 230.
Rue Bab el-Oued, 224.
— de Constantine, 226.
— de la Kasba, 227.
— de la Porte-Neuve, 227.
— de Lyon, 232.
— d’Isly, 226.
— Kléber, 227.
— Marengo, 228.
— Michelet, 228.
— Randon, 227.
— Sadi-Carnot, 232.
Ruisseau, Le, 231.
St. Eugène, 236.
— Raphaël, 234.
Scottish Church, 228, 220.
Square Bresson, 222.
Staouéli-Trappe, 234.
Station Zoologique, 223.
Steamboat Agents, 219.
Synagogue, 227.
Théâtre Municipal, 222.
Tramways, 218.
Turkish Fountain, 223.
University, 228.
Vallée des Consuls, 236.
Vieux-Kouba, 231.
Villa des Grottes, 231.
— Sesini, 231.
Village Arabe de la Bouzaréah, 235.

Algiers, Bay of, 118.

—, Sahel of, 221, 169.

Alhama, 72.

—, Sierra de, 89.

Alhucemas, Islas de, 123.

Ali, 158.

El-Alia, 370.

Alicante, 112.

Alicuri, 146.

Allaghan, 251.

Allélik, 309.

Alma, 249.

Almeida, Barranco de, 36.

Almería, 112.

Almijara, Sierra de, 112.

Almina, 103.

—, Punta de la, 123.

Almodóvar, 68.

Alora, 88.

Altava, 186.

Alta Vista, 41.

Althiburus, 362.

Alúpka, 570.

Alupo, Cape, 490.

Alvo, Monte, 144.

Amalfi, 155.

Amaro, Monte, 428.

Ameradsa, 278.

Ameur-el-Aïn, 243.

Amisus, 575.

Ammaedara, 362.

Amorgós, 417.

Amoucha, 269.

Amrûs, 411.

Anafe, 107.

Anaga Mts., 33.

—, Punta de, 33.

Anaphe, 417.

Anăpo, 162.

Anastasia Islands, 562.

Anatolia, 490.

Anatoli Fanar, 560.

— Hissar, 558.

— Kavak, 560.

Ancona, 427.

Andalouses, Plaine des, 184.

Andalusia, 49.

Andros, 529.

Anfa, 107.

Angad, Plaine des, 197.

Angustias, Barranco de las, 48.

Anjera Mts., 103.

Announa, 307.

Antequera, 72.

—, Punta, 33.

Anti-Atlas, 93.

Antibes, Cap d’, 112.

Anticaria, 72.

Antigoni, 535.

Anti-Lebanon, 483, xxxiv.

Antipaxos, 500.

Antipyrgos, 415.

Aokas, Cape, 266.

Aomar, 250.

El-Aouaria, 153.

Apano-Garuna, 499.

Apennines, 113, 427.

Apes’ Hill, 103.

Aphrodisium, 365.

Apisa Majus, 359.

Apollonia (Palestine), 468.

— (Tripolitania), 414.

Apsorus Insula, 429.

Apuan Alps, 134.

Aquæ Calidæ, 212.

— Carpitanae, 364.

— Flavianae, 273.

— Herculis, 278.

— Sirenses, 200.