Chapter VIII: Sea Routes in the Eastern Mediterranean (3)

After some time we pass the four low _Trémiti Islands_, the mythical _Insulae Diomedeae_, and then the rocky island of _Pianosa_ (ancient _Planasia_), beyond which we sight _Monte Gargáno_ (3464 ft.; _Mons Garganus_), once, as late as the tertiary age, an island separated from the mainland by a strait.

Off the lighthouse of _Vieste_, on the E. side of the peninsula, we steer away from the _Bay of Manfredonia_ and due S.E. to—

=Bari= (Hôt. Cavour, Corso Vittorio Emanuele; Caffè del Risorgimento, at the hotel; Brit. vice-cons. and U. S. cons. agent; pop. 73,400), the ancient _Barium_, a provincial capital and the largest trading town in Apulia. As in the time of Horace, this is the part of the Adriatic where fish are most abundant.

From the _Porto Nuovo_, on the N.W. side of the old town, Monte Gargano, often cloud-capped, is visible even in rainy weather. The small _Porto Vecchio_, on the E. side, admits small craft only.

The sights of the old town are the _Castle_, once that of the Hohenstaufen, dating from Emp. Frederick II. (1223; now barracks and signalling station), the _Cathedral_, a Romanesque church of the 12th cent. modernized in 1745, and the church of _San Nicóla_, dedicated to St. Nicholas of Bari. San Nicola and the small church of _San Gregorio_ near it date from the end of the 11th century.—The old town and the new (_Borgo_) are separated by the broad _Corso Vittorio Emanuele_, which ends in pleasant promenades.

Beyond Bari we skirt the coast, where in the seaports of _Mola di Bari_, _Polignano a Mare_, and _Monopoli_, with their white houses, we see the first signs of the Orient. The _Faro di Penna_, the lighthouse on _Capo Gallo_, and the lighthouses in the islands of _Sant’ Andrea_ (see below) and _Le Petagne_ mark the approach to (475 M.) _Brindisi_ (see below).

The AUSTRIAN LLOYD STEAMERS, on leaving _Trieste_ (p. 425), steer to the S.W. through the _Bay of Trieste_, avoiding the numerous bays of the N.W. coast of _Istria_; then, beyond the lighthouse of _Salvore_, the ancient _Silvium Promontorium_, they keep in sight of the hilly, olive-clad W. coast of Istria. We pass the small coast-towns of _Umago_, _Cittanuova_, and _Parenzo_ (ancient _Parentium_), then the lighthouse on the _Marmi Bank_, the _Canal di Leme_, a kind of fiord, backed by _Monte Maggiore_ (4580 ft.), and the harbour of _Rovigno_, sheltered by cliffs (scogli).

Beyond the cliff of _San Giovanni in Pélago_ (lighthouse) we pass the _Isŏle Brioni_, where the Venetians once quarried stone for their palaces and churches. Fine view of the deeply cut bay of _Pola_, the chief naval seaport of Austria, used also by the Romans of the imperial age as a naval harbour.

Beyond _Cape Promontore_ (ancient _Polaticum Promontorium_), the flat S. extremity of Istria, with a lighthouse on the _Porer Cliff_, a delightful view in clear weather is revealed of the Dalmatian islands, relics of the ancient Dalmatian limestone plateau, now submerged in the Adriatic. The most conspicuous are _Lussin_ (_Apsorus Insula_), culminating in _Monte Ossero_ (1929 ft.), and to the E., overtopped by it, _Unie_ and _Sansego_ with their lighthouses.

We pass the large islands of _Lunga_ or _Grossa_ and _Incoronata_ (_Celadussae Insulae_), lying off the coast near Zara. A good way farther on we sight the rocky islet of _Pomo_, midway between Dalmatia and the E. coast of Italy; then the islands of _Sant’ Andrea_ (1001 ft.), _Busi_ (788 ft.; containing the _Spelonca di Ballon_, resembling the blue grotto of Capri), and _Lissa_ (1920 ft.; ancient _Issa_), where the Austrian fleet defeated the Italian in 1866.

Between the islands of _Cazza_ (797 ft.) and _Lagosta_ (1368 ft.; ancient _Ladesta_) and the Italian island-group of _Pelagosa_, we may descry _Monte Gargano_ (p. 428) to the S.W. in clear weather.

We now steer straight towards the _Faro di Penna_ (p. 428).

=Brindisi.=—The QUAY is on the N.E. side of the town; the STATION, on
the S.W. side, is ¾ M. from the quay. Between them runs the Corso
Garibaldi, continued to the W. by Corso Umberto Primo.

HOTELS (charges should be agreed upon beforehand). _Grand-Hôt.
International_, at the quay, R. 5–10, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6, omn. 1½
fr.; _Albergo Europa_, Corso Garibaldi 147, R. from 2 fr.; _Alb.
Centrale_, Corso Garibaldi 67, near the harbour; these two, with
restaurants, fairly good.—_Café Caprez._

CAB (bargaining necessary) from station to quay 60 c., 2 pers. 1 fr.,
3 pers. 1 fr. 20 c.; ½ hr. 2, 1 hr. 3 fr.; at night 20 c. more; trunk
20 c.

=Post & Telegraph Office=, Corso Umberto Primo and on the quay.

BRITISH CONSUL, _S. G. Cocoto_.

STEAMBOAT OFFICES. _Società Nazionale_, Via Margherita 32; _Austrian
Lloyd_, Thos. Cook & Son, Strada Marina.—The steamers are generally
moored at the quay; otherwise, landing or embarkation 60 c.—LLOYD’S
AGENT, _Sig. Nervegna_.—ENGLISH CHURCH SERVICE in winter.

_Brindisi_ (pop. 22,000), a quiet town, the seat of an archbishop, has been ever since ancient times an important starting-point for the East. In the middle ages its harbour was often sought by the Crusaders, and hosts of travellers now pass through it on their way to or from Egypt, India, Australia, etc. The inner harbour, sheltered from every wind, consists of two natural creeks formed by erosion; in the southmost, the Seno di Ponte Piccolo, 492 yds. long, the large steamers are easily berthed. The channel connecting the inner harbour with the outer had become choked with sand in the later middle ages, but was reopened in 1755 and lined with masonry in 1866. On the island of _Sant’ Andrea_, outside the harbour, rises a castle of the 15th cent., now a quarantine station.

The town offers few sights. On a height close to the quay stands a _Column_, 62 ft. high, with a rich capital containing figures of gods. Adjacent is the base of a second column. The unfinished inscription on the first mentions Lupus Protospatha, a Byzantine governor, who restored the town in the 10th cent. after its destruction by the Saracens. These columns are said to have marked the end of the Via Appia which led from Rome to Tarentum and Brundisium, and they perhaps bore a beacon-fire. The Gothic _Castle_, with its huge round towers, on the N. creek, to the W. of the town, built by Emp. Frederik II. about 1235 and strengthened by Charles V., now contains a bagno for galley convicts. The baptistery of _San Giovanni al Sepolcro_ (11th cent.), with its fine portals and frescoes, is now a museum of antiquities. The _Cathedral_, in its present form, is of the 18th cent.; at the corner of a street opposite is a mediæval house with an elaborate balcony. The Norman church of _San Benedetto_ (early 13th cent.) has an interesting side-portal and fine cloisters. _Santa Lucia_ has a crypt with relics of Byzantine frescoes.

Leaving Brindisi the STEAMER next passes through the _Straits of Otranto_, the entrance to the Adriatic, about 47 M. in breadth, within sight at first of the flat and marshy coast of Apulia, with the lighthouse of _San Cataldo_. To the E., on the coast of _Albania_, rise the _Acroceraunian Mts._ (p. 496).

Far away to the left appear the _Othonian Islands_ (p. 496), belonging to Greece, and the W. coast of _Corfu_ (p. 495).

Steering through the _Ionian Sea_ we near the W. coast of _Kephallenía_ (p. 500) and _Zante_ (p. 502). Off the _Strophades_ (p. 502) we sight the _Messenian Peninsula_, with _Mt. Ægaleon_ (p. 502).

Beyond the _Œnussae Islands_ (p. 493) we proceed to the E.S.E. till at length we pass the W. coast of _Crete_ (p. 415) and the island of _Gavdos_ (p. 418). We then lose sight of land until near _Alexandria_ or _Port Said_ (comp. p. 418).

69. Alexandra.[6]

ARRIVAL. Most of the steamers are berthed at the quay in the inner
harbour (otherwise the fare to or from the steamer is 2 pias., at
night 3 pias., each trunk 1 pias.). After the formalities of the
sanitary authorities are concluded, the care of heavier baggage is
entrusted to one of the Arabian hotel porters, or to Cook’s agents (p.
432), who wear an official cap or badge. The inclusive charge to the
hotel or to the railway-station is 15–20 pias., which
through-passengers to Cairo may sometimes pay in advance at one of the
tourist agencies before starting on their journey. The custom-house
examination is usually lenient.

Footnote 6:

MONEY. The _Egyptian Pound_ (£E, ‘livre égyptienne’) contains 100
_Piastres_ (pias.) of 10 _Millièmes_ (mill.) each. The Arabic for
piastre is _kirsh_, pl. _kurûsh_ (pronounced in Cairo _’irsh_ and
_’urûsh_), but the European name is known everywhere. Petty traders
often distinguish between the ‘great piastre’ of 10 mill, (_kirsh
sâgh_) and the ‘little piastre’ of 5 mill. (_kirsh tarifa_). In the
following data the ‘great’ is always understood.

The Egyptian pound is worth ca. 20_s._ 6_d._, the piastre nearly
2½_d._ Egyptian gold coins are rare, their place being taken by the
sovereign (_ginê inglîsi_, 97½ pias.), the French 20 fr. piece
(_bint_, 77 pias.), and the Turkish pound (_mejidîyeh_, 87½ pias.),
which are all legally current.

The silver coins are _riyâl masri_ (20 pias.), _nusse riyâl_ (10
pias.), _rub’a riyâl_ (5 pias., 1_s._ ¼_d._, often called a
‘shilling’ at Cairo), _kirshen_ (2 pias.), and _kirsh_ or _kirsh
sâgh_ (1 pias.). Nickel: _nusse kirsh_ or _kirsh tarifa_ (½ pias.),
2 mill. (⅕ pias.), and 1 mill. (ca. ¼_d._). Copper: ½ and ¼ mill.

Eastern European time, which is about 2 hrs. in advance of
Greenwich, is observed in Egypt.

=Railway Station.= GARE DU CAIRE or BAB EL-GUEDID (Pl. G, 5; buffet),
near the old Porte Moharrem Bey.

=Hotels= (English style). SAVOY PALACE (Pl. g; H, 4), Rue de la Porte
de Rosette 35, R. 40–70,. B. 10, déj. 20, D. 30, pens. 80, omn. 5
pias.; METROPOLE HOTEL (Pl. k; F, G, 3), Rue Avéroff, near the E.
harbour, R. 20–30, B. 6, déj. 15, D. 20, pens. 40–60, omn. 5 pias.,
well spoken of; EXCELSIOR HOTEL (Pl. a; H, 4), Rue de la Porte de
Rosette 15; GRAND-HÔTEL (Pl. b; F, 4), Square Ste. Catherine, R. from
25, B. 6, déj. or D. 20, pens. 60–80, omn. 5 pias.; WINDSOR HOTEL (Pl.
d; G, 3), Rue Avéroff 7, near the E. harbour, R. from 17, déj. 15, D.
20, pens. from 50 pias.; HÔT. BRISTOL (Pl. i; G, 4), Rue de la Gare de
Ramleh; HÔT. DES VOYAGEURS (Pl. f; F, 4), Rue de l’Eglise Ecossaise 4,
pens. 11 fr.; HÔT. BONNARD (Pl. e; F, 3), Rue Champollion 7, pens.
from 42 pias.—=Hôtels Garnis.= HÔT. DU NIL (Pl. h: F, 3), Rue de
l’Ancienne Bourse 11; HÔT. CONTINENTAL (Pl. c; F, 4), Rue de France 2.

=Cafés= (cup of Arabian coffee 1 pias.). Several in Place Méhémet Ali
(Pl. F, 4), etc.—CONFECTIONERS. _Confiserie Albengo_, Rue Chérif Pacha
17; _Groppi_, same street, No. 33; _Zola_, Rue Toussoun Pacha 3;
_Sault_, Rue _Chérif_ Pacha 26.

=Restaurants.= _Ristorante Firenze_, Rue de la Poste 14 (Pl. F, 3, 4);
_Restaurant Universel_, Rue de l’Ancienne Bourse 9 (Pl. F, 4); same
street, Nos. 3 and 6, _Old Bourse Bar_ and _Spathis_; _Castelli_, Rue
Chérif Pacha 1.

=Tramways= (see Plan), all diverging from Place Méhémet Ali. Uniform
fare, 1st cl. 10, 2nd cl. 5 mill., with right to one change of
car.—Electric line to Ramleh (p. 436) every 5 min. till midnight
(dep., see Pl. G, 3).—There are in addition several services of MOTOR
OMNIBUSES plying within the town and to the suburbs.

=Cabs= (Arabic _arabîyeh_). In the town, drive of 10 min. 2 pias.,
with two horses 3 pias.; 20 min. 2½ or 4 pias.; ½ hr. 3 or 5 pias.;
hr. 6 or 9 pias.; each addit. ¼ hr. 1½ or 2 pias.; from steamer to
railway-station 3 or 5 pias. (See tariff in vehicle as to suburbs).
The aid of a friend who speaks the language is desirable in bargaining
for long drives.

=Post Office= (Pl. F, 3), open 7–12 and 2 to 9.30. Postage, see p.
441. France has its own post-office, Rue de la Gare de Ramleh
2.—=Telegraph Offices.= _Egyptian_, Rue Tewfik Premier 1; _British_,
Rue du Télégraphe Anglais 5 (Pl. F, 4).

=Consulates.= British (Pl. 6; H, 3), Rue de l’Hôpital Egyptien:
consul-general, _D. E. Cameron_; vice-consul, _E. H. Mulock_.—United
States, Rue Chérif Pacha 21; consul, _D. R. Birch_; vice-consul, _F.
L. Romeo_.

=Tourist Agents.= _Thos. Cook & Son_, Rue de la Porte de Rosette 2;
_Clark_, Grand-Hôtel; _Hamburg-American_, Square Ste. Catherine (Pl.
F, 4); _F. Th. Fotiades & Co._, Rue Chérif Pacha 22.

=Physicians.= _Dr. Morrison_, Place Méhémet Ali; _Dr. Webb Jones_, Rue
de Stamboul; _Dr. Elkins_ (Government Hospital); _Dr. Forster_
(lady-doctor); _Dr. Hoddad_, Rue de la Gare de Ramleh 29.

=Steamboat Offices.= _Peninsular & Oriental_, Rue Avéroff (Haselden &
Co.; ‘Box 153’); _Messageries Maritimes_ (RR. 67, 72), Ricard, Rue de
l’Eglise Debbane 5; _Austrian Lloyd_ (RR. 68, 72), Rue de la Porte de
Rosette; _Società Nazionale_ (RR. 67, 68, 72), Capt. Baldovino, Rue
Sésostris 12; _Khedivial Mail Steamship Co._ (RR. 72, 75, 76), Rue
Centrale; _North German Lloyd_ (R. 67) and _Rumanian Mail_ (R. 76),
Müller & Co., Rue Sésostris 16; _German Levant Line_ (R. 72), Stross,
No. 11, same street; _White Star_, Ross & Co., Rue de la Marine;
_Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._ (RR. 72, 75, 76),
Reidemeister, Rue St. Marc 1.

=Banks= (usually 9–12 and 3–5). _Ottoman_, Place Méhémet Ali 5 (Pl. F,
4); _National Bank of Egypt_, Rue Toussoun Pacha 4 (Pl. G, 4);
_Anglo-Egyptian_, Rue Chérif Pacha 7; _Crédit Lyonnais_, same street,
No. 4; _Bank of Egypt_, Rue Tewfik 4; _Deutsche Orientbank_ (Pl. F,
4), Rue Adib 4.

=Photographs.= _Reiser & Binder_, Rue de l’Ancienne Bourse 6 (also
art-dealers); _Lassave_, Rue de l’Eglise Debbane 7; _Fettel &
Bernard_, Rue Toussoun Pacha 1. Photographical requisites at
_Delmar’s_, Rue Tewfik Premier.

=Theatres.= _Zizinia_ (Pl. G, 4), Rue de la Porte de Rosette, often
closed; French and Italian operas, alternating after 1st Jan. with
Cairo.—VARIETY THEATRES (all with gardens): _Alhambra_ (Pl. G, 4);
_Nuovo Teatro Alhambra_, cor. of Rue Misalla and Rue de la Gare de
Ramleh (Pl. G, 3).—_Jardin Rosette_, Rue de la Porte Rosette (Pl. H,
4).

=Churches.= _English_ (_St. Mark’s_; ‘Egl. anglicane’; Pl. F, 4),
Place Méhémet Ali; chaplain, _Ven. Archdeacon Ward, M. A._; services
on Sun. at 8, 11, and 6.15 o’clock.—_Presbyterian_ (_St. Andrew’s_;
Pl. 1, F, 3, 4), Rue de l’Eglise Ecossaise; service on Sun. at 10.30
a.m.—_American Mission_ (‘Egl. améric.’; Pl. G, 4), Rue Sidi
el-Metwalli.

ONE DAY, when time is limited. Forenoon, _Place Méhémet Ali_ (p. 434),
the _Arab_ and _Turkish Quarters_ (p. 434); tramway or cab to
_Pompey’s Pillar_ (p. 435); *_Catacombs of Kôm esh-Shukâfa_ (p. 435).
Afternoon, _Rue Chérif Pacha_ (p. 435) and _Museum_ (p. 436). A
‘billet cumulatif’ obtained at the Museum (8 pias.) admits also to
Pompey’s Pillar and the Catacombs.

_Alexandria_, called by the Arabs and Turks _Iskanderîeh_, the second town of Egypt, strongly fortified, and one of the most important trading places on the Mediterranean, lies in 31° 11′ N. lat. and 29° 53′ E. long., at the W. end of the _Nile Delta_ (p. 418), on a strip of land separating _Lake Mareotis_ from the sea. The population is about 377,000, incl. 48,000 Europeans (‘Franks’), chiefly Greeks and Italians, but many French and Austrians and a lesser number of English and Germans. The Moslems live mostly in the N. and W. quarters (comp. p. 434), the Europeans chiefly in the E. quarter or in Ramleh (p. 436).

Alexandria was founded in 331 B. C. by _Alexander the Great_, who
endeavoured to blend the land of the Pharaohs with his new Greek
empire. His Egyptian governor and successor, _Ptolemy I. Soter_
(323–286), made Alexandria a centre of art and science. He founded the
Museum, an institute for the promotion of science and poetry, to which
the famous Alexandrine library was attached. The highly advantageous
position of the town, which was connected, through Lake Mareotis, with
the Nile by several navigable channels, and whose harbour (unlike the
other older seaports at the mouth of the Nile) was protected by marine
currents from being silted up, led to the surprisingly rapid
development of its trade and prosperity under the _Ptolemies_.
Alexandria had attained its zenith when, in 48 B. C., the Romans
intervened in the quarrels between _Cleopatra_ and her husband
_Ptolemy XIV._ Both _Caesar_, who entered Alexandria in triumph after
the murder of Pompey at Pelusium, and _Antony_ were ensnared by
Cleopatra. After the defeat of Antony’s partisans _Augustus_ founded
the large E. suburb of _Nicopolis_. When at its prime the city is said
to have had a population of half-a-million inhabitants. The Greek
element predominated, after which came the Egyptian, while a Jewish
community had existed here ever since the time of Ptolemy I.
Christianity also took root in Alexandria at an early period, having
been first proclaimed here, according to tradition, by St. Mark the
Evangelist.

In the time of _Trajan_ (96–117) the revolt of the Jews, who then
composed one-third of the population, gave rise to terrible bloodshed
and disaster. A century later the emperor _Caracalla_ (211–7) paid a
fateful visit to the city, and, to punish the citizens for their
contumacy, ordered many of them to be massacred and the famous academy
to be closed. The city suffered even more severely from the
persecution of the Christians under _Decius_ (250) and _Valerian_
(257), from the plague in the reign of _Gallienus_, and from its
battles with the Palmyrenes (260–8). Having become, like Carthage, a
stronghold of Christian erudition, Alexandria afterwards became the
chief scene of the embittered controversies between _Arius_ (d. 336),
a presbyter of the city, and the ‘orthodox’ bishops _Alexander_ and
_Athanasius_ (328–78). Even after the victory of the Athanasians at
the councils of Nicæa (325) and Constantinople (381) the Arian heresy,
which admitted the divine nature of Christ but denied his identity
with the Father, subsisted for centuries among the Germanic tribes.

Under _Theodosius I._ (379–95) paganism received its death-blow, when
the patriarch _Theophilus_ waged war against all heathen temples and
monuments. But the material prosperity of the city declined at the
same time. The citizens were no longer able to pay for the cleansing
of the Nile and the maintenance of the canals, and they were further
impoverished when the patriarch _Cyril_ banished the Jews. In 619 the
Persian _Chosroes_ made Alexandria his base for the conquest of Egypt.
The country was next overrun by the hordes of caliph _Omar_, whose
general Amr ibn el-Âsî captured Alexandria in 641. Its importance now
declined still further in the same proportion as Cairo, the new
capital of the conquerors, rose to wealth and importance. In 1303 and
1326 a great part of the city, with the Pharus (p. 434), was destroyed
by earthquakes. Lastly, the discovery of America and of the sea-route
to India completed the ruin of its trade.

About the year 1800 the population of Alexandria had dwindled to about
5000, but _Mohammed Ali_ (p. 414) wisely laid the foundations of a new
era of prosperity. He improved the harbours and constructed canals.
His great work was the _Mahmûdîyeh Canal_ (p. 434), begun in 1819,
which fertilized anew the environs of the city and again connected it
with the interior of Egypt, which had long been obliged to export its
produce by way of Damietta and Rosetta. Subsequent rulers also were
zealous for the welfare of Alexandria. During the revolt of the
national party under _Arâbi Bey_ (1882) Alexandria was bombarded by
the British fleet and the European quarter was burned down, but since
then the city has resumed its steady and vigorous career of progress.

The old town of to-day lies partly on the _Heptastadion_, the embankment ‘seven stadia’ (about 1430 yds.) in length, which ever since the time of the Ptolemies has connected the mainland with the island of _Pharos_, but which in the course of centuries has been greatly widened. At the E. extremity of the island, now peninsula, rises the picturesque _Fort Kâït Bey_ (Pl. D, E, 1), on the site of the famous ‘Pharus’, a lighthouse erected under Ptolemy II. Philadelphus by Sostratus of Cnidos, in 280–279; it was originally 400 ells (590 ft.) in height, and was deemed one of the seven wonders of the world; it is supposed to have been the prototype of the Egyptian minaret (comp. p. 445). The main or ‘great’ harbour of that period, protected by a huge embankment, is now the _Port Est_, the new quays of which afford a pleasant seaside walk and are being completed as a fashionable boulevard.

The _Port Ouest_, the ancient _Eunostos_ (‘haven of happy return’), was little used till the later Roman age. Improved since 1871 it now consists of an inner basin of 475 acres, and a new outer harbour of 1750 acres (p. 418). From the beginning of the Gabbari Mole extend quays with warehouses along the E. side of this harbour to the _Naval Arsenal_ (Pl. C, D, 3). Of the 2000 steamers entering the port annually more than half are under the British flag. The inner harbour is connected with the _Mahmûdîyeh Canal_ (p. 435) by means of locks. The chief exports are cotton, cotton-seed, grain, beans, rice, sugar, onions, and tomatoes.

The Rue de la Marine (Pl. E, D, 5, 4; tramways, see p. 431) and its continuation the Rue Moutouch Pacha (Pl. D, 4, 3) form one of the chief approaches to the peninsula of _Pharos_ (see above). Between the viceregal _Palace of Râs et-Tîn_ (Pl. A, B, 3) and the Port Est lies the TURKISH QUARTER, with its pretty houses and a few gardens.

The RUE RÂS ET-TÎN, the main street of the N. quarters, leads past the _Government Buildings_ (Pl. D, E, 3), to the S.E., to the ARAB QUARTER, lying on the ancient Heptastadion (see above) and containing several _Sûks_ or markets, which present an interesting picture of Oriental life.

The Rue de France (Pl. E, F, 3, 4), the S.E. prolongation of the Rue Râs et-Tîn, leads to the =Place Méhémet Ali= (Pl. F, 4), the focus of European life, planted with trees and adorned with a _Statue of Mohammed Ali_ (p. 444) on horseback. The chief buildings here are the _Palais de Justice_, the _Bourse_, and the _English Church_. The last is adjoined by _St. Mark’s Building_, belonging to the British community and used as a school and for official purposes. From the W. harbour the Place Méhémet Ali is reached by the Rue Bab el-Karasta (Pl. E, 5) and Rue Anastasi (Pl. E, F, 5, 4), skirting the lofty _Fort Cafarelli_ or _Napoléon_ (Pl. E, 5; signalling station).

A few paces to the S. of the Place Méhémet Ali lies the triangular Square Ste. Catherine (Pl. F, 4), named after the Catholic _Church of St. Catharine_. From this point we walk (or take a car or motor-omnibus, see p. 431) to the S.E. through the Rue Abou Dardah (Pl. F, 4, 5) and Rue de la Colonne Pompée (Pl. F, G, 6, 7), past the _Sidi Amr Mosque_ (Pl. G, 6) and a large _Cimetière Arabe_ (Pl. F, 6, 7), to a bare hill, on the right, covered with débris.

Here in the time of the Ptolemies rose the _Serapeum_, the most superb temple in the city, dedicated to Serapis, god of the lower regions. On the same site now stands POMPEY’S PILLAR (Pl. F, G, 7; adm. 3 pias.; see also p. 432), the grandest memorial of antiquity in the city. We ascend by steps to the plateau. All around are traces of recent excavations, chiefly bringing to light relics of Roman edifices. The column, composed of red granite from Assuan, is 88 ft. high including the mutilated base. It is perhaps a Christian monument of victory, dating from the time of Emp. Theodosius I. (p. 433), signalizing the destruction of the Serapeum (391). In the middle ages it was supposed to be the tomb of Pompey.

We follow the Rue Karmouss (Pl. G, 7, 8), which leads hence to the S. to the _Mahmûdîyeh Canal_, and diverging to the right viâ the Rue Bab el-Melouk, we pass a small mosque and reach (10 min.) the entrance (Pl. ‘E.’; F, 8) to the—

*=Catacombs of Kôm esh-Shukâfa= (Pl. F, 8; ‘hill of potsherds’), an Egyptian burial-place of the 2nd cent. A.D., hewn in the rock. Adm. from 8 a.m. till dusk (5 pias.; see also p. 432).

The tombs, discovered in 1900, consist of several stories and afford
an excellent example of the characteristic Alexandrine blend of the
Egyptian with the Græco-Roman style. They probably belonged to some
Egyptian magnate. Around the principal chambers are plainer vaults for
the domestics of the family. Modern stairs ascend to the restored
entrance on the hill-top. The interior is rendered accessible by
wooden bridges and lighted by electricity, but is partly under water.

A spiral staircase, lighted by a large round shaft, descends near a
sarcophagus-chamber of later date to two stories. From the entrance to
the upper story we enter a rotunda covered with a kind of dome. On the
right are two smaller vaults with niches, sarcophagi, and shelf-tombs
(loculi). On the left is a large chamber, the Triclinium Funebre, used
for funeral banquets.

The stairs divide farther down, affording a survey of the principal
chambers, and lead round the entrance to the *Tomb Chapel on the
lowest floor, with three niches for sarcophagi. Round the chapel runs
a gallery, accessible from the vestibule, with 91 shelf-tombs.

An important thoroughfare, leading to the N.E. from the Rue Abou Dardah (p. 434), is the Rue Sidi el-Metwalli (Pl. F, G, 5, 4), with its continuation the RUE DE LA PORTE DE ROSETTE (Pl. F-I, 4, 3). These streets unite at the end of the busy Rue Chérif Pacha (Pl. F, G, 4), a street of shops, coming from the Place Méhémet Ali (p. 434). This thoroughfare corresponds with the E. half of the _Dromos_, the main street of the ancient city, which ended at the _Canopic Gate_, the site of the now removed Porte de Rosette. In the Rue du Musée, a N. side-street, is the—

*=Museum= (Pl. H, 3), a building in the Greek style, which contains an extensive collection of Græco-Roman antiquities, mostly Alexandrine, found in catacombs and tombs. Adm. daily, 9–12 and 3 to 5.30, 2 pias. (see also p. 432; closed on Thurs. in summer).

From the ante-room we see the statue of Hercules in the transverse
gallery between the main wings of the building (see below). The
side-room contains a topographical collection. Room I (on the right).
Christian antiquities, including tombstones and some of the terracotta
flasks in which pilgrims brought holy oil from the tomb of St. Menas
(d. 296) at Mariut.—Rooms II-V. Alexandrian coins, stamps from Greek
amphoræ, etc.

Room VI. Inscriptions and tombstones. On the right, Ptolemaic
*Tombstones (Nos. 83, 97, etc.), resembling those of Attica in the 4th
cent. B.C.—Rooms VII-IX. Egyptian antiquities. (In Room VIII, No. 380.
Fine bas-relief with a man, a harper, and singing-women.)

Rooms X & XI. Egyptian monuments and smaller sculptures. (In R. XI,
No. 3704. Portrait-head in black basalt.)—Rooms XII & XIII.
Portrait-busts and sculptures. (In R. XII, Case B, admirable small
busts of Alexander; *66. Marble Head of Hercules or, according to
others, of Zeus.)

Rooms XIV & XV. Architectural fragments. (In R. XV, No. 3, painted
capitals from palaces of the Ptolemies.)—Room XVI. Sculptures.

Rooms XVII & XVIII. Small objects of art. In R. XVII glass; mummies
with portraits of the deceased painted on wood (2nd cent. A.D.). In R.
XVIII small clay figures of the Ptolemaic and Roman periods; among the
former, *Figures of girls in the style of the Tanagra figurines.

Room XIX. A mosaic and cinerary urns from Shatbi.—Room XX. Tomb
accessories.—Room XXI. Objects from tombs, including elegant bronze
wreaths; terracotta figures.—Room XXII. Architectural fragments;
mosaics from Canopus.

In the gallery crossing the garden is a colossal figure of Hercules.

From the Museum the Rue du Musée to the N.W., the broad Rue d’Allemagne to the left, and the Rue Missala to the right soon lead to the old _Ramleh Railway Station_, now used for the electric line (see p. 431) to =Ramleh= (_i. e._ ‘sand’), a villa suburb and sea-bathing place, inhabited in summer by wealthy Alexandrians and Cairenes. At _San Stefano_, the terminus, is the _Hôtel Casino San Stefano_, with a theatre and concert-rooms (adm. 5 pias.).

From Alexandria to _Cairo_, see R. 71.

70. Port Said.

ARRIVAL. The steamers moor alongside the Quai François-Joseph or in
the Bassin Ismaïl. If they are not berthed at the quay the fare for
landing at the Custom House (Pl. 8) is 1½–2½ piastres (trunk 2, small
packages 1 pias.). The North German Lloyd provides a steam-tender in
winter, which lands passengers free of charge. Heavy luggage had
better be entrusted to one of the hotel-porters, or to an agent of
Messrs. Cook (comp. p. 431) or of the Hamburg-American Line.

RAILWAY STATION near Lake Menzaleh (p. 418), 10 min. to the W. of the
Custom House.

HOTELS. *_Eastern Exchange Hotel_ (Pl. a), Rue Sultan Osman, pens.
from 12s., English house; *_Savoy_ (Pl. d), corner of Quai
François-Joseph and Rue el-Tegara, with restaurant and bar, pens. from
62 pias. ; _Hôt. Continental_ (Pl. b), Rue el-Tegara, with bar, pens.
10_s._ 6_d._; _Hôt. de la Poste_ (Pl. c), Rue du Nil.

CAB from the quay to the station 4 (at night 5) pias.

POST OFFICES. Egyptian (Pl. 14) and French (Pl. 15), Rue du
Nil.—TELEGRAPH OFFICES. Egyptian (Pl. 18), Rue el-Tegara; Eastern
Telegraph Co. (Pl. 17), Quai François-Joseph, for Europe.

CONSULATES at the Quai François-Joseph. British (Pl. 3):
consul-general, _E. C. Blech_; vice-consul, _T. D. Dunlop_.—United
States (Pl. 2): consular agent, _H. Broadbent_.

TOURIST AGENTS. _Thos. Cook & Son_, Quai François-Joseph; _F. C.
Clark_, Savoy Hotel; _Hamburg-American Line_, Rue du Nil.

STEAMBOAT OFFICES. All the important companies have offices on the
quay. _L. Saxon & Co._ (Società Nazionale) are also Lloyd’s Agents.

BANKS. _Bank of Egypt_ and _Crédit Lyonnais_, Rue du Nil; _National
Bank of Egypt_, Rue Eugénie; _Ottoman_, Bassin du Commerce.—Money, see
p. 431.

PHYSICIANS. _Dr. Curling_, _Dr. W. Hayward_ (Egyptian Government
Hospital); _Dr. E. Cuffey_ (Lady Strangford Hospital); _Dr. J. H.
Wigham_.

ENGLISH CHURCH. _Church of the Epiphany_ (‘Eglise angl.’ on Plan), Rue
el-Tegara; services every Sun. at 10.30 a.m. and 6 p.m.

_Port Said_ (pop. 42,000, incl. 11,300 Europeans) lies at the E. end of the strip of land between _Lake Menzaleh_ (p. 418) and the open sea, at the N. end of the _Suez Canal_, to which it owes its foundation. Its trade, chiefly through-traffic, is growing rapidly.

The _Harbour_ of 570 acres has a depth of 26 ft., which is maintained by laborious dredging. It is sheltered by two massive breakwaters, the _Jetée Ouest_, 2460 yds. long, with a statue of Ferd. de Lesseps (1805–94), the builder of the Suez Canal (1859–69), and the _Jetée Est_, 1750 yds. long. The former protects it against the mud of the Nile. Between these is the _Digue Nouvelle_, an inner breakwater 597 yds. long, for shelter against E. winds; on the mainland opposite (to the W.) rises the *_Phare_, a lighthouse 174 ft. high, visible 23 M. away.

The inner harbour of 220 acres consists of the _Bassin Ismaïl_ (with its three very shallow creeks), the _Bassin des Chalands Charbonniers_, and the _Bassin Abbas Hilmi_ or _Africa Basin_, with the quarantine establishment.

The Rue Quai du Nord (tramway) leads to the N.W. to the _Quartier Arabe_.

71. From Alexandria or Port Said to Cairo.

FROM ALEXANDRIA TO CAIRO, 130 M., express in 3, ordinary train in 6–6¾
hrs.; 1st cl. 87½, 2nd cl. 44 pias.—FROM PORT SAID TO CAIRO, 145 M.,
express (with dining-car) in 4–4¼, ordinary in 5 hrs.; 96 or 48
pias.—As to transport of luggage, see p. 431.—The buffets at the
intermediate stations are poor.

_Alexandria_, see p. 431. The Cairo railway, the oldest in the East (1855), rounds _Lake Mareotis_ (p. 432), which during the Nile inundation rises at places to the permanent way. On the left is the _Mahmûdîyeh Canal_ (p. 434).

On the right beyond (17 M.) _Kafr ed-Dâwâr_ appear the first cotton-fields.—38 M. _Damanhûr_ (pop. 22,100), the ancient Egyptian _Timē-en-Hor_ (town of Horus) and Roman _Hermopolis Parva_, is now the capital of the province of _Beheireh_, which extends from the Rosetta arm of the Nile (p. 418) to the Libyan desert.

The soil becomes more fertile. Villages of wretched mud-huts and a few groups of trees appear. We cross the _Rosetta Arm_. 64½ M. _Kafr ez-Zaiyât_.

76 M. =Tanta= (Buffet; Hôt. Khédivial, etc.; Brit. cons. agent, E. Erba; pop. 80,000), capital of the province of _Gharbîyeh_, between the Rosetta and Damietta arms (p. 418), possesses a palace of the Khedive and an unfinished mosque of _Seiyid el-Bedawi_, a popular Egyptian saint, born at Fez (12th cent.). The great August fair (_el-Mûlid el-Kebîr_; ‘the great mûlid’, or nativity of the saint) is often attended by half-a-million persons, including a number of European merchants.

Farther on we pass several cotton-cleaning mills, evidencing the prosperity of this region, and then cross the _Damietta Arm_.

101 M. =Benha= (Buffet), junction of the Port Said (see below) and Suez lines, is noted for its fruit. 120½ M. _Kalyûb_ (or _Qualioub_).

The Libyan hills become more prominent; so also the _Mokattam Hills_ (p. 443) and the citadel with the slender minarets of the mosque of Mohammed Ali (p. 454). Gardens and villas appear. On the left are the site of ancient Heliopolis (p. 459; obelisk not visible), Matarîyeh with its sycamores, Kubbeh, the residence of the Khedive, and the suburb of Abbâsîyeh (p. 459).

130 M. =Cairo= (chief station), see p. 439.

* * * * *

_Port Said_, see p. 436. The Cairo line at first skirts the W. bank of the _Suez Canal_ (p. 437). On the right lies _Lake Menzaleh_.

Beyond (28 M.) _El-Kantara_ (‘the bridge’), the isthmus between lakes Menzaleh and _Balah_, traversed by the time-honoured military and caravan route from Egypt to Syria, we cross the bed of the latter lake, now largely drained.

We next cross _El-Gisr_ (‘the barrier’), a hill 52 ft. high, between lakes Balah and _Timsâh_ (‘crocodile’), once the most serious obstacle in the way of the canal.

49 M. =Ismaîlîya=, or _Ismaïlia_ (Buffet; pop. 7000), junction for Suez, a quiet little town on the N. bank of Lake Timsâh.

The train now runs to the W. through the _Arabian Desert_, intersected here by the _Wâdi Tûmîlât_, and skirts the _Ismaîlîyeh Canal_ (p. 454).

Near (85 M.) _Abu Hammâd_ begins the well-watered and well-planted E. part of the Nile Delta. To the S. of the railway lies the Biblical land of _Goshen_ (Gen. xlv. 10), which was miserably neglected during the Turkish period, but has now awakened to new life.

97 M. =Zakâzîk= (Buffet; Brit. cons. agent, G. Diacono; pop. 60,000), capital of the E. Egyptian province of _Sharkîyeh_, favourably situated at the junction of several railways and on the _Muizz Canal_ (part of the ancient Tanite arm of the Nile, see p. 418), is a rapidly improving place. It is the chief seat of the Egyptian cotton and grain trade. The large cotton-mills give some quarters of the town quite a European look.—Near _Tell Basta_, ½ hr. to the S.E. of Zakâzîk, are the ruins of the ancient _Bubastis_ (Egyp. _Per-Bastē_, the _Pi-beseth_ of Ezekiel xxx. 17).

116 M. _Benha_, and thence to (145 M.) _Cairo_, see p. 438.

Cairo.[7]

=Railway Stations.= =1.= _Central Station_ (Pl. B, 1; Buffet), for
Alexandria, Port Said, and Upper Egypt, to the N.W. of the town,
beyond the Ismaîlîyeh Canal, ½ M. from the Ezbekîyeh.—=2.= _Pont Limûn
Station_, or _Gare de Matarîyeh_, adjoining the central, for Matarîyeh
(Old Heliopolis), for the electric line to the Heliopolis Oasis (see
p. 441), etc.—=3.= _Bâb el-Lûk Station_ (Pl. B, 5), for Helwân (p.
464).—The hotel omnibuses and the porters and tourist-agents (p. 441)
await the arrival of the express trains. Or an Arab porter, wearing a
metal badge on his arm, may be engaged to carry luggage to an omnibus
or a cab (tariff, see p. 441). Heavy luggage is taken to the hotels in
separate vehicles.

Footnote 7:

A STREET is often called _sikkeh_ or _tarîk_. A _shâria_ (French
_chareh_) is an avenue or boulevard; _derb_ is a road (also
caravan-route); _hâra_, a lane (also quarter of the city); _atfa_, a
blind alley or _cul-de-sac_; _mîdân_, a square. Most of the names
have been affixed, since the British occupation, in Arabic character
and in English or French transliteration. It should be noted that in
the Plan and in the text the English _ee_ is replaced by the
continental and more usual _i_ or _î_ and the French _ou_ or English
_oo_ usually by _u_ or _û_.

=Hotels= (mostly in the English style and excellent, but generally
crowded in Jan.-March; advisable to telegraph for rooms from
Alexandria or Port Said; closed in summer or charges reduced).

_In the Town_: *SHEPHEARD’S HOTEL (Pl. B, 3), Shâria Kâmel, with
terrace, garden, restaurant, bar, post-office, etc., pens. from 80
pias., patronized by American and English travellers; *SAVOY (Pl. B,
4), Mîdân Suleimân Bâsha, pens. from 80 pias., with excellent
restaurant (déj. 30, D. 50 pias.); *SEMIRAMIS (Pl. A, 5), Kasr
ed-Dubara, on the Nile, with garden and roof-terrace, restaurant,
post-office, etc., pens. from 80 pias.; *CONTINENTAL (Pl. B, C, 3),
Place de l’Opéra, with terrace, restaurant, etc., pens. from 70 pias.,
frequented by English travellers; *HÔT. D’ANGLETERRE (Pl. B, 3),
Shâria el-Maghrâbi, with terrace, etc., pens. 70–80 pias.—*NATIONAL
(Pl. B, 3), Shâria Suleimân Bâsha, pens. from 50 pias.; NEW KHEDIVIAL
HOTEL (Pl. B, 2), Shâria Bâb el-Hadîd, pens. from 45 pias.; EDEN
PALACE (Pl. C, 3), Shâria el-Genaïneh, pens. from 50 pias., frequented
by English and American travellers; VILLA VICTORIA (Pl. B, 3; private
hotel), Shâria Shawarbi Bâsha, quiet and well-situated, pens. 70
pias.; VILLA NATIONALE, Shâria Shawarbi Bâsha (Pl. B, 3), also a
private hotel, with garden and tennis-court, pens. 50 pias.; BRISTOL &
DU NIL (Pl. C, 2, 3), Mîdân el-Khaznedâr, pens. from 65 pias.,
commended; MÉTROPOLE (Pl. B, C, 3), Hâret Zogheb, pens. 50–60 pias.,
well spoken of; HÔT.-PENS. ROSSMORE HOUSE (English), Shâria
el-Madabegh 13, pens. 40–50 pias.—HÔT. DES VOYAGEURS (Pl. B, 2),
Shâria Nubar Bâsha, pens. 45–50 pias., with good cuisine, patronized
by the French; HÔT. ROYAL (Pl. C, 2), Shâria Wagh el-Birket, with
bodega, pens. 60 pias.; HÔT. DE LONDRES (Pl. B, 2, 3), Shâria Kâmel,
pens. 40 pias.; HÔT.-PENS. SUISSE, Shâria el-Genaïneh 10 (Pl. C, 3),
pens. 33–40 pias.

_On the Island of Gezîreh_ (p. 457): *GHEZIREH PALACE HOTEL, with
restaurant, large gardens, daily concerts, etc., open Dec.-April,
pens. from 80 pias. (electr. omnibus to station; motor to Shepheard’s
and Semiramis Hotels frequently).

_At the Heliopolis Oasis_ (p. 459): HELIOPOLIS PALACE HOTEL, a new
extensive establishment of the first class, on the Metropolitan Line
(p. 441), with all modern appliances, a garden, pavilion, etc., open
in winter only, pens. 80–150 pias.; *HELIOPOLIS HOUSE, a first-class
family-hotel, opposite the former, with a large terrace, restaurant,
American bar, and concerts, pens. 40–50 pias.; PENS. BELLE-VUE, with
restaurant (déj. 12, D. 16 pias.), pens. 40 pias.

_Near the Pyramids of Gîzeh_ (p. 461): *MENA HOUSE HOTEL, with
restaurant, swimming-bath, tennis-courts, golf-links, riding-track,
etc., open 1st Nov. to 15th May, pens. 60–100 pias.; SPHINX HOTEL,
near Kafr el-Haram (p. 463), a village 10 min. to the S.E. of the
tramway-station, new, pens. from 10_s._

=Restaurants= at the hotels, with grill-rooms. Also _Santi_, in the
Ezbekîyeh Garden, déj. 20, D. 25 pias.; _St. James’s_, Shâria Bûlâk,
opposite the Egyptian Telegraph Office; _Restaurant du Nil_, Shâria
Elfi Bey, déj. 14, D. 16 pias.; _Hermes_, Shâria Kâmel, opposite the
Ezbekîyeh Garden.

=Bars & Cafés.= _New Bar_, Place de l’Opéra; _Splendid Bar_, Shâria
Kâmel; _Bar High Life_, Shâria Wagh el-Birket 42.—European style, but
not for ladies: _Sphinx Bar_, Shâria Bûlâk, with grill-room; _Café
Egyptien_, opposite Shepheard’s Hotel, with female orchestra;
_Eldorado_, Shâria Wagh el-Birket.—The Arabian cafés (_kahwa’s_) are
small and dirty.

=Confectioners.= _Lehrenkrauss_, Shâria Kasr en-Nîl 34, with tearooms;
_Sault_, _Groppé_, both Shâria el-Manâkh.

=Beer.= _Restaurant Falck_, Shâria el-Mahdi (Pl. B, C, 2, 3);
_Bavaria_, Mîdân Kantaret ed-Dikkeh (Pl. B, 2), good restaurant (déj.
12, D. 15 pias.); _Kemmler_, in the street on the N. side of the
Crédit Lyonnais (p. 442); _Flasch_, near the Ezbekîyeh Garden.

=Tramways= (fare 1 or ½ pias. unless otherwise stated; separate
compartment for women). The following are the chief lines: 1. From the
_Atabet el-Khadra_ (Pl. C, 3) to Place de l’Opéra (Pl. C, 3), Shâria
Bûlâk (Pl. B, A, 3), Kasr en-Nîl (Egyptian Museum), Kasr el-Aïni (Pl.
A, 7), Rôda, Gîzeh Village, and the Pyramids (Mena House, see above),
every 30 (aftern. every 20) min.; fare 4 or 2 pias.—2. From the
_Atabet el-Khadra_ to Bâb el-Khalk (Pl. D, 4; Arab Museum), Shâria
Khalîg el-Masri, Place Seiyideh Zeinab (Pl. C, 6), Shâria Mawardi, and
the _Abattoirs_ (beyond Pl. B, C, 7), every 7½ min.—3. From the _Mîdân
el-Khaznedâr_ (Pl. C, 3) to Kasr en-Nîl, Kasr el-Aïni (Pl. A, 7),
Gezîret Rôda (p. 461), Pont Abbâs II., and the _Village of Gîzeh_ (p.
461), every 10 min.; fare 2 or 1 pias.—4. From the _Mîdân
el-Khaznedâr_ to Mîdân Bâb el-Lûk (Pl. B, 4), Mîdân Ismaîlîyeh (Pl. A,
4, 5; for the Great Nile Bridge and Egyptian Museum), Shâria Kasr
el-Aïni, Fum el-Khalîg (Pl. A, 7), and _Old Cairo_, every 6½ min.—5.
From _Kasr en-Nîl_ (Gezîreh, p. 457) to Zoological Garden and _Village
of Gîzeh_, every 10 min.—6. From _Bûlâk_ (p. 454) to Shâria Abou
el-Ela (Pl. A, 3), Shâria Bûlâk, Atabet el-Khadra (see above), Bâb
el-Khalk (see above), and the _Citadel_ (Place Rumeileh; Pl. E, 6),
every 3 min.—7. From _Zabtîyeh_ (Shubra), to Central Station (Pl. B,
1), Shâria Clot Bey, Atabet el-Khadra, Mîdân Bâb el-Lûk (Pl. B, 4),
and _Mîdân Nasrîyeh_ (Pl. B, 5), every 3 min.—8. From _Central
Station_ (Pl. B, 1) to Shâria Abbâs (Pl. B, A, 2, 3), Shâria Mariette
Bâsha (Pl. A, 4; Egyptian Museum), Kasr en-Nîl, _Mîdân el-Azhâr_ (Pl.
B, 4; Gare de Bâb el-Lûk), every 9 min.—9. From _Ghamra_ (to the N. of
Pl. D, 1) to Mîdân ez-Zâhir (Pl. D, E, 1), Bâb esh-Sharîyeh (Pl. D,
2), Muski, Bâb el-Khalk, and thence as No. 2, every 6 min.—10. From
the _Atabet el-Khadra_ (Pl. C, 3) viâ the Place de l’Opéra, Shâria
Bûlâk, Shâria Imâd ed-Dîn (Pl. B, 3, 2), Bâb el-Hadîd (Pl. B, 1), and
Abbâsîyeh to the _Heliopolis Oasis_ (p. 459), every 10 min.; in ca. 50
min.; fare 1½ or 1 pias.

=Electric Railway= (‘Métropolitain’) from the _Pont Limûn Station_
(Pl. B, 1) every 10 min. (from 6.30 a.m. till 12 p.m.) to the
_Heliopolis Oasis_ (p. 459), in 10 min.; fares 1st cl. 2, 2nd cl. 1
pias.

=Steam Ferries= between Bûlâk (Shâria Abou el-Ela; to the W. of Pl. A,
3; corresponding with tramway No. 6) and Gezîreh (p. 457), and between
Old Cairo (p. 460; corresponding with tramway No. 4) and the village
of Gîzeh (p. 461).—_Local Steamers_ from the Bûlâk Bridge (Pl. A, 4)
to Bûlâk.

=Cabs= (comp. p. 431), open victorias with two horses, abound in the
European quarters and tourist-resorts. Closed cabs (landaus) usually
have to be ordered, and the fares are higher. The TARIFF (in cab) is
for 1–3 pers. (each addit. pers. 2, trunk 1 pias.) as follows:

1. DRIVE within a radius of 4 kil. (2½ M.) from the Administration
Building (Gouvernorat; Pl. D, 4), for 1 kil. 3, each addit. kil. 2
pias.; if dismissed outside the zone named, 2 pias. more per kil.;
waiting, up to ¼ hr., 2 pias.

2. BY TIME (Arab, bis-sâa), in town 1 hr. 10, each addit. ¼ hr. 2
pias.; per day (12 hrs.) 70 pias.

3. LONGER DRIVES. To the Citadel 10, and back 20 pias. (incl. stay of
1 hr.); to Old Cairo 12 or 18 pias. (halt of 1 hr.); to the Pyramids
50 or 80 pias. (halt of 3 hrs.); to the Heliopolis Oasis 30 or 50
pias. (halt of 2 hrs.).

A gratuity (bakshîsh) of 5–10 per cent over the fare is usually given.
Complaints, with the number of the cab and other details, should be
lodged at the police-office (p. 442). During the season the demands of
the cabmen are often exorbitant, but the mere mention of the dreaded
word ‘karakól’ (prison) generally brings them to reason.

=Motor Cabs= (with taximeter): 3½ pias. for the first 1200 mètres (¾
M.), 1 pias. each addit. 400 mètres (¼ M.), waiting 1 pias. for each 5
min. In addition to these fares a surtax must be paid for each drive
as follows: from or to the Mena House (Pyramids) 10 pias., Heliopolis
8 pias., Citadel, Gîzeh 5 pias., Gezîreh 3 pias.

=Donkeys= (Arabic _homâr_; per hour about 2, day 12 pias.) abound.
They are pleasant on bridle-paths free from dust. The donkey-boys
(_hammâr_) often lash the animals into a gallop, but this should be
checked. _Ala mahlak_ means ‘slow’, _erbût_ or the English _stop_
‘halt’. The bakshish should be of course proportioned to the
donkey-boy’s behaviour.

=Post Office= (Pl. C, 3; p. 446), corner of Shâria Tâhir and Shâria
el-Baidak. The outside-offices, for the sale of stamps only, are open
from 7.30 a.m. to 9.30 p.m. (inland letter ½, in postal union 1 pias.;
post-cards 3 and 4 mill.). The offices inside are open from 9 to 6.30,
with a short break at 12.30. Lists of the over-sea mails are exhibited
in the vestibule. Notice of the arrival of registered letters is sent
to the addressee, who obtains delivery by producing the notice,
stamped by the hotel or signed by some well-known person.
Branch-offices at Shepheard’s, the Continental, Ghezireh Palace, and
Mena House. Letter-boxes at all the hotels.

=Telegraph Office.= _Eastern Telegraph Co._ (Pl. B, 3), corner of
Shâria Imâd ed-Dîn and Shâria el-Manâkh. _Egyptian_ (Pl. B, 3), Shâria
Bûlâk, corner of Shâria Imâd ed-Dîn.—Branches at Shepheard’s, the
Crédit Lyonnais, and Ghezireh Palace.

=Consulates.= GREAT BRITAIN, Shâria Gâmia esh-Sherkes (Pl. B, 4):
consul-general and plenipotentiary, _Sir Arthur Hardinge_; consul, _A.
D. Alban_; vice-consul _R. M. Graves_.—UNITED STATES, Kasr ed-Dubara:
consul-general and plenipotentiary, _P. A. Jay_; vice-consul, _L.
Belrose_. Also French, German, Austrian, Italian, etc.

=Tourist Agents.= _Thos. Cook & Son_ (Pl. B, 2, 3), Shâria Kâmel 6;
_Lubin_, Shâria Bûlâk 5; _F. C. Clark_, near Shepheard’s;
_Hamburg-American Line_, Hôt. Continental (Pl. B, C, 3); _D. E.
Munari_, Shâria Kâmel 5.

=Steamboat Offices.= _Khedivial Mail_, _White Star_, _Union Castle_,
_Thos. Cook & Son_ (see p. 441); _Messageries Maritimes_, Shâria
el-Maghrâbi 10; _Società Nazionale_, Figari, Shâria el-Maghrâbi 33;
_Austrian Lloyd_, Heller, same street, No. 2; _North German Lloyd_,
_Rumanian State Maritime Service_, Sterzing, Place de l’Opéra 3;
_German East African Line_, Fix & David, Shâria Mansûr Bâsha; _Russian
Steam Navigation & Trading Co._, Alchewsky, Shâria el-Manâkh
6.—Notices of departure also posted in the hotels.

=Police Office= (Pl. D, 4; p. 450; _Zabtîyeh_). About 300 officials,
incl. a few Europeans, chiefly Italians, obliging to strangers and
well organized. Complaints against the police must be lodged at the
traveller’s consulate.

=Banks.= _Crédit Lyonnais_ (Pl. C, 3), Shâria el-Bosta; _Ottoman_ (Pl.
B, 3), Shâria Imâd ed-Dîn 13; _Bank of Egypt_ (Pl. B, 3, 4), Shâria
Kasr en-Nîl 17; _Anglo-Egyptian_, Shâria el-Manâkh; _National Bank of
Egypt_, Shâria Kasr en-Nîl 35; _Deutsche Orientbank_ (Pl. B, 3),
Shâria el-Manâkh 23; _Banque d’Athènes_.

=Shops.= BOOKSELLERS. _Diemer_, at Shepheard’s Hotel; _British
Library_, opposite the Savoy.—PHOTOGRAPHS, at _Diemer’s_; also sold by
_Dittrich_, Shâria Elfi Bey; _Paul_, Shâria el-Manâkh 26.—EMBROIDERY,
CARPETS, and various ORIENTAL ARTICLES (mostly made in Europe):
_Chellaram_, Hôt. Continental; _Madjar_, at Shepheard’s; _Spartali_,
opposite the Savoy; _J. Cohen_, _Valliram Bros._, and other dealers in
the Khân el-Khalîli (p. 446).—ARABIAN WOODWORK. _Parvis_, next to
Shepheard’s (large warehouse near the entrance to the Muski, p. 446;
to the left in the court); _Haloun_, Sikket el-Gedîdeh (Pl. D, 3);
_Furino_, Shâria Suleimân Bâsha.—ANTIQUITIES (genuine) at the Egyptian
Museum (p. 455).

=Physicians= (addresses obtainable at the hotels, at Diemer’s, or at
the chemists’). _Dr. Keatinge_ (head of the Kasr el-Aïni school of
medicine), _Dr. Murison_ (of Victoria Hospital), _Dr. Milton_, _Dr.
Phillips_, _Dr. Tribe_, _Dr. Madden_, and _Dr. Richards_, all English;
_Dr. Keichline_, American.

=Chemists.= _Pharmacie Anglo-Américaine_, Place de l’Opéra; _Pharm.
Coscarelli_, Shâria Abdîn 17; _Pharm. Nardi_, in the Muski;
_Anglo-German Dispensary_, Shâria el-Bawaki 11; _Savoy Pharmacy_
(_Norton & Co._), Shâria Kasr en-Nîl 34; _Stephenson & Co._, Shâria el
Manâkh 15.

=Theatres.= _Khedivial Opera_ (Pl. C, 3; p. 446; French or Italian),
boxes dear; evening dress compulsory; office open 8–12 and
2–5.—_Théâtre Abbas_ (Pl. B, 2), Shâria Kantaret ed-Dikkeh, Ital.
operas and Fr. operettas.—_Théâtre Printania_ (Pl. B, 3), Shâria
Elfi Bey.—_Ex-Verdi_, Shâria Bâb el-Bahari 5, Arabian and
Greek.—_Nouveautés_, Shâria Nubar Bâsha 9; _Jardin de Paris_, Shâria
Imâd ed-Dîn; at both varieties.—_Summer Theatre_, mostly Italian
pieces, in the _Ezbekîyeh Garden_ (p. 445).—EVENING CONCERTS by
English military bands on Tues. and Thurs. in the Ezbekîyeh Garden
(p. 445).

=Churches.= _Church of England Services_ at _All Saints Church_ (Pl.
B, 3), Shâria Bûlâk (services at 8 and 10.30 a.m. and 6 p.m.), and at
_St. Mary’s_ (Pl. A, 5), Shâria Kasr el-Aïni.—_Church of Scotland_
(_St. Andrew’s_; Pl. A, 3), Shâria Bûlâk, to the S. of the Bridge of
Abu’l Eileh.—_American Mission_ (Pl. B, C, 3), opposite
Shepheard’s.—_Rom. Cath._ (_L’Assomption_; Pl. D, 3), Shâria
el-Banadkiah 2, in the Muski; _St. Joseph’s_, in the Ismaîlîyeh
quarter (Pl. A, B, 4).—_Orthodox Greek_ (_St. Nicholas_; Pl. D, 2, 3),
in the Hamzâwî (p. 447).—_Coptic Cath._ (Pl. D, 3) and _Coptic
Orthodox_ (Pl. C, 2).—_New Synagogue_ (Pl. B, 3), Shâria el-Maghrâbi,
and others.

=Collections= (closed on Frid. and Mohammedan festivals): _Arab
Museum_ (p. 450), 9 to 4.30 (May-Oct. 8–1), adm. 5 (in summer 1)
pias.—_Egyptian Museum_ (p. 455), 9 to 4.30 (May-Sept. 8.30 to 1),
adm. 5 (in summer 1) pias.—_Khedivial Library_ (p. 451),
exhibition-room 9–4, free.

Visitors are admitted to most of the _Mosques_ (p. xxv) and to the
_Mameluke Tombs_ (p. 458) daily except Frid. and at the hour of
noonday prayer. Ticket (2 pias.) at the entrance. Fee of ½–1 pias. to
the attendant who supplies slippers.

THREE DAYS (when time is limited). 1st. Forenoon, _Muski_ (p. 446),
_Market Quarter_ (p. 446), *_Gâmia el-Azhar_ (p. 447), _Muristân
Kâlaûn_ (p. 448), *_Gâmia el-Muaiyad_ (p. 450), _Bâb Zuweileh_ (p.
450); afternoon, _Mameluke Tombs_ (p. 458) or _Gezîreh_ (p. 457) or
_Heliopolis Oasis_ (p. 459).—2nd. Forenoon, _Arab Museum_ (p. 450;
closed Frid.), _Medreseh Kâït Bey_ (p. 451), *_Gâmia Ibn Tulûn_ (p.
451); afternoon, *_Gâmia Sultân Hasan_ (p. 452), _Citadel_ (p.
453).—3rd. Forenoon, *_Egyptian Museum_ (p. 455; closed Frid.);
afternoon, *_Pyramids of Gîzeh_ (p. 461).—Intercourse with natives,
see p. xxv.—Guides, touts, and beggars should be summarily shaken off.

_Cairo_, Arabic _El-Kâhira_ or _Masr el-Kâhira_, or simply _Masr_ or _Misr_ (after the old Semitic name of Egypt), lies in 30° 4′ N. lat. and 31° 17′ E. long., on the right bank of the Nile, about 12½ M. to the S. of the ‘cow’s belly’, where the river divides into the Rosetta and Damietta arms (p. 418).—On the E. side of the city, which covers an area of about 11 sq. M., rise the reddish rocky slopes of the _Mokattam Hills_ (p. 454; about 650 ft.), marking the beginning of the Arabian desert.

Cairo, the largest city in Africa and in the whole of the Arabian world, is the residence of the Khedive and of all the chief authorities. The population is estimated at 630,000, including 50,000 Europeans, chiefly Greeks and Italians. The great majority of the citizens are Egypto-Arabian, Fellah (peasant) settlers, Christian Copts (also nearly pure descendants of the ancient Egyptians), Nubians, Turks, Armenians, and (about 6000) Jews; then negroes of many different tribes, Berbers and Arabs from the N. African seaboard, Bedouins (nomadic Arabs), Syrians, Persians, Indians. The street scenes in the older quarters are very curious and picturesque.