Chapter II: Madeira and the Canary Islands (1)

Route Page
3. Madeira 17
Excursions from Funchal, 24.
4. The Canary Islands 28
Teneriffe, 32.—Gran Canaria, 43.—Palma, 47.

3. Madeira.

STEAMBOAT LINES. 1. _Union Castle Line_, steamers weekly from
Southampton to Madeira in 3½ days (on their way to S. and E. Africa);
fares, 1st cl. 15–17 guineas, 2nd 10–12 _gs._ (return in each case
about ⅔ more); also summer tours to Madeira, Las Palmas, or Teneriffe
and back, 18 or 12 _gs._, or, with a week’s board in one of the
islands, 20 or 14 _gs._—2. _Royal Mail Steam Packet Co._, fortnightly
from Southampton (for Brazil) viâ Vigo and Lisbon to Madeira (fares
11_l._ 10_s._ or 8_l._); also fortnightly from London round voyage to
Gibraltar, Tangier, Casablanca, Mazagan, Saffi, and Mogador, returning
viâ Las Palmas, Teneriffe, and Madeira (fare from 22 _gs._; single to
Madeira or Canary Islands from 15 _gs._).—3. _Booth Line_ (for
Brazil), thrice monthly from Liverpool to Madeira; 10_l._, return
16_l._ 10_s._—4. _Yeoward Bros. Line_, weekly from Liverpool to the
Canaries calling on alternate voyages at Madeira; comp. p. 28.—5.
_Federal, Houlder, & Shire Lines_, from Liverpool fortnightly, for
Australia or New Zealand, calling at Madeira, Las Palmas, or
Teneriffe, 10 _gs._—6. _Empreza Nacional de Navegação_, from Lisbon to
Madeira, 1st and 7th of each month; 5_l._ 6_s._ 3_d._ or 3_l._ 12_s._
3_d._, return 9_l._ 0_s._ 8_d._ or 6_l._ 3_s._—7. _Empreza Insulana_,
from Lisbon to Madeira, 20th of each month; 4_l._ 5_s._ or 3_l._ 3_s._
9_d._, return 7_l._ 13_s._ or 5_l._ 14_s._ 9_d._—During the winter
season the Mediterranean steamers of the White Star and Cunard Lines
(p. 118) call once monthly at Madeira, and the Transports Maritimes
(p. 120) occasionally touch at Madeira.

The communication between Madeira and the Canary Islands (R. 4) is
very defective.

The _Archipelago da Madeira_, or Madeira group of islands, consists of _Madeira_ itself, the largest of the group, 37 by 14 M., _Porto Santo_ (rising 1663 ft. above the sea), 6½ by 3 M., which lies 26½ M. to the N.E. of Madeira, and the three uninhabited _Desertas_. These are the islets of _Chão_ (341 ft.), 12½ M. to the S.E. of Madeira, _Deserta Grande_ (1611 ft.), and _Bugio_ (1349 ft.). Madeira lies in 33° N. lat., between the Azores and the Canary Islands (R. 4), 620 M. to the S.W. of Lisbon, 370 M. to the N.W. of Cape Juby (p. 104), and 275 M. to the N. of Teneriffe (p. 32). The population of the islands, which are said to have been uninhabited when discovered by the Portuguese in 1419, is now, in an area of 314 sq. M., about 150,000. All the islands are of volcanic origin. In Madeira, above the primæval diabase rock (p. 29), numerous eruptions since the miocene epoch have formed a number of extinct craters (lagoas), and as in the Canaries have raised the soil 1150 ft. above its original level. The main ridge of the island, running from W. to E., and culminating in the Pico Ruivo (‘red peak’; 6060 ft.), frequently rises in rocky pinnacles. In examining the geological structure of the island one is struck with ‘the constant mingling of solid masses of basalt and lava with strata of loose tufa and ashes, the whole being interspersed with upright dykes of lava’. The only tablelands are the _Paul da Serra_, on the W., and the smaller _Santo Antonio da Serra_, on the E. On the S. and N. slopes of the central range we observe a series of very curious and grand basins (_curraes_, sing. _curral_), which are enclosed by high rocks, and are connected with the sea by deep ravines, testifying to the enormous erosion caused by water and wind. Narrow strips of coast, strewn with rounded fragments of basalt, occur only at the mouths of the few streams, and on the largest of these lies _Funchal_, the capital of the island, on its S.W. margin.

The mild and wonderfully equable climate of Madeira which since 1850 has attracted numberless invalids, chiefly English, to its shores, is due partly to its southern position, tempered by the surrounding ocean, but mainly to the influence of the Gulf Stream, which sends from the Azores an offshoot, known as the Canary branch, towards the African coast. On the sunny S. coast in particular, which is free from fog and is sheltered from the prevailing N.W. wind by the above-mentioned main ridge, the mean and almost unvarying temperature of the three winter months (at Funchal 61° Fahr.; minimum 50°) is considerably higher than that of the favourite Mediterranean resorts (Nice 48° Fahr., Ajaccio 52°, Algiers 54½°, Málaga 55°), while the summer temperature is lower (at Funchal in Aug. 70½°, maximum 92°). Dust is almost unknown. The rainfall (at Funchal 27½ inches; but more in the mountains and on the N. coast), chiefly in sudden and heavy showers, occurs mostly between October and February or March. The lowest snow-line is 1970 ft. above the sea. The relative moisture of the air (67 per cent) at Funchal is moderate, notwithstanding the proximity of the sea. As in the Canaries, the mountains are generally cloud-capped about midday, except during the prevalence of the _Leste_, the wind blowing from the African desert (p. 29), which in Madeira is not specially unpleasant.

Thanks to the genial climate, the abundant winter rains, and the system of irrigation by means of open channels (_levadas_), whereby water is brought down, partly through tunnels (_furos_), from its mountain sources, the fields and gardens of Madeira, ‘Flor do Océano’, show an almost tropical luxuriance of vegetation. Side by side with pines, junipers, and deciduous European trees, such as the plane, the chestnut, the maple, the oak, and the walnut, of which there are many splendid specimens, are seen countless evergreen trees and shrubs of tropical and subtropical origin. Among these are palms, araucarias, hickory-trees, cork-trees, camphor-trees, figs, palm-lilies (yuccas; p. 233), magnolias, eucalypti, bamboos, papyrus-bushes, tree-ferns, and aloes. A few isolated dragon-trees (p. 30), the laurel (_vinhatico_), and the tilwood tree (Oreodaphne fœtens), a kind of bay-tree scarcely occurring elsewhere, are survivals of the primæval forest destroyed by the Portuguese discoverers, and now lingering only in the remote ravines and on the slopes of the N. coast. To that forest the island owes its name (madeira, ‘wood’; _Isŏla di Legname_ on old Italian charts). The hill-sides are now largely clothed with tree-like erica and broom (Genista madeirense, G. virgata, furze, etc.), large bilberry-bushes (Vaccinium madeirense), stemless ferns, and box, forming a kind of evergreen underwood. In the gardens of Funchal, enclosed by high walls, the traveller feasts his eyes, especially in May, on a most exuberant flora, comprising roses, rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, callas, bignonias, daturas, fuchsias, hydrangeas, honeysuckle, and a superb red and purple bougainvillea. The garden-walls, field-roads, and hill-terraces are everywhere overgrown with vines, but, as in the Canary Islands, the wine-culture has suffered since 1852 from the grape-disease (Oïdium Tuckeri) and from the competition of port-wine (p. 4). Among favourite brands are _Malvasia_ or _Malmsey_, a sweet dessert-wine, _Boal_, and the astringent _Sercial_. Like the Vega of Málaga (p. 89), the S. coast of Madeira yields the sugar-cane, which forms the chief crop of the island, bananas, sweet potatoes (p. 89; Portug. _batata doce_), cherimolias, coffee-plants, yams (Dioscorea batatas; Portug. _inhame_), and early vegetables, which last are exported chiefly to England. Pine-apples thrive in hot-houses only. The natives live mostly on maize and the fruit of a kind of cactus (Opuntia Tuna) which grows abundantly on all the rocks.

Madeira also possesses several charming home-industries, producing embroidery, lace, silk shawls, basket-work, inlaid laurel-wood, and feather-flowers. Funchal, the only considerable harbour in the island, is an important coaling and provisioning station for steamers bound for S. Africa and for America. The heavy customs-dues, which render living dear, the over-population of the island, and the poverty of the peasantry cause a considerable emigration, chiefly to S. America.

=Season and Mode of Travel.= Madeira is an admirable health and rest
resort at all seasons, except perhaps for sufferers from neurasthenia
or gastric disorders; but in summer the Monte (p. 24) and Camacha are
preferable to the lower sites. Tourists, on the other hand, will find
July, Aug., and Sept, the best months for their purpose, as the hotels
are cheaper and less crowded, the days are long, and the dry weather
favours excursions into the interior. At Funchal English, French, and
in the larger hotels German are much spoken, but in the interior
Portuguese only. Those unacquainted with the language of the natives
are then dependent on the help of their horse-attendants (_arrieiros_)
or guides (_guias_ or _chapas_), many of whom speak a little English.
At the principal hotels and shops English money is readily received,
but small Portuguese change is required for fees and other minor
outlays. Beggars abound, but their importunities should invariably be
disregarded (comp. also p. xxv).

The streets of Funchal and the hill-roads are paved with round and
slippery cobbles of basalt, against which india-rubber heels afford
protection. The most popular vehicles are the bullock-cars (_carros de
bois_; seated for 4 persons; 400–1000 rs. per hour). For steep
descents the _carro do monte_ or _carrinho_, a kind of running sledge,
is employed (400–1200 rs. per drive). The longer excursions on the
extremely hilly routes so characteristic of Madeira are best taken on
horseback. The horses of Andalusian race are wonderfully wiry and
sure-footed (per hour 500 rs.; _arrieiro_, or attendant, 800–1000 rs.
per day). Ladies and invalids use the hammock or litter (_rede_), a
costly conveyance (2–4 bearers, at 500–600 rs. each per hour).
Finger-posts are entirely lacking.

The few _Vendas_, or country-inns, and the houses of the mountain
engineers (to which travellers are admitted by leave from the office
of the Obras Publicas at Funchal, Rua do Conselheiro Vieira 80) afford
very primitive quarters. Travellers should therefore be provided with
rugs, preserved meats, candles, insect-powder, and good
drinking-water. As in the Alps, strong boots with nails and a _hasta_
or _bordão_, a long stick with an iron spike, are desirable for
mountaineering.

Among BOOKS on Madeira may be mentioned _A. Samler Brown’s_ Guide to
Madeira, the Canary Islands, and the Azores (10th ed., London, 1910;
2_s._ 6_d._); Leaves from a Madeira Garden, by _Chas. Thomas-Stanford_
(London, 1910; 5_s._); _Yate Johnson’s_ Handbook of Madeira (London,
1885); Madeira, by _Ellen M. Taylor_ (2nd ed., London, 1889); Madeira
Islands, by _A. J. D. Biddle_ (2nd ed., London, 1900; 2 vols.);
Madeira, Old and New, by _W. H. Koebel_ (London, 1909; 10_s._ 6_d._);
The Flowers and Gardens of Madeira, by the _Misses Du Cane_ (London,
1909; 7_s._ 6_d._).

* * * * *

The STEAMERS arriving from the N. skirt the W. coast of =Porto Santo= (p. 17), an island in the form of a tableland, surrounded by five reef-islets; its inhabitants (about 2300) live mostly in the little town of _Villa Baleira_. Beyond Porto Santo we obtain a superb view of the abrupt and furrowed N. coast of Madeira, with the curiously shaped Penha d’Aguia (p. 27).

Farther on appears the long E. promontory of Madeira, a rocky peninsula worn by the surf, and connected with the islet of _Ponta de São Lourenço_ by a grand rocky gateway called the _Ponta do Furado_. We steer round the _Ilheo de Fora_, an outlying islet with a lighthouse (_Farol_; 348 ft.), visible from a distance of 28 M., towards which the steamers from Lisbon, Gibraltar, and Morocco direct their course, passing to the S. of Porto Santo.

To the S., beyond the low island of _Chão_, rise the _Deserta Grande_ and _Bugio_, the largest of the =Desertas= (p. 17), a group of islands deserted for lack of water, and now owned by Mr. C. J. Cossart, of Madeira. British sportsmen desiring to shoot wild goats there or hunt seals (Monachus albiventer) in the ocean-caves of the Deserta Grande must obtain permission from the owner.

The thinly peopled and somewhat bare S.E. coast of Madeira, with the three little harbours of _Caniçal_, _Machico_, and _Santa Cruz_, shows clearly the geological formation of the island (comp. pp. 17, 18). Off _Porto Novo_, in particular, we are struck with the rich colouring of the _Pico dos Iroses_, where the sombre basaltic and lava rock contrasts with brick-red strata of ashes and blood-red masses of slag.

Very beautiful is the approach to the *_Bay of Funchal_, which is bounded on the E. by the bold _Cabo do Garajão_, and on the W. by the _Ponta da Cruz_, a spur of the _Pico da Ponta da Cruz_ (p. 25). From the narrow strip of coast the lanes of the old town mount the steep hill-side between the three river-beds (which are generally dry), while several groups of houses extend up to the _Pico Fort_ (p. 23) and the _Levada de Santa Luzia_ (p. 24). Farther up, stretching to the terrace of the _Monte_ (p. 24), are gardens and vineyards, from which peep many white _quintas_ or country-houses. On the plateau behind _Forte Ilheo_ (p. 24) are seen the charming gardens, with their tall araucarias, belonging to the W. suburb of Funchal, the finest residential quarter. Of the barren mountains in the background the highest peak visible from the sea is the _Pico de Santo Antonio_ (p. 25), to the N.W. of the town.

=Funchál.=—ARRIVAL. The steamers cast anchor in the open roads, which
are much exposed to the surf when the wind is from the S. or S.W. The
passenger’s luggage, including hand-bags and small packages, is
conveyed from the steamer, in charge of a _guarda fiscal_, direct to
the Alfándega, or custom-house (Pl. 1; C, D, 2). Tobacco, spirits, and
unused articles are specially dutiable. The charge for landing is
about 500 rs. for each person, but should be ascertained beforehand,
with the aid of the hotel-porter if necessary. In stormy weather
passengers are landed at the _Pontinha_ (Pl. B, 3), a small pier
beyond the Forte Ilheo. At the custom-house a declaration has to be
filled up, for which the fee is 50 rs.; the luggage is then usually
retained till midday, and when it is finally cleared the passenger
gives a receipt for it (250–300 rs. more). For the transport of
luggage to the hotel by bullock-car not more than 1000 rs. should be
paid (an agreement should be made beforehand). The Madeira clock is 59
min. behind Greenwich time.

=Hotels= (mostly in the English style; almost all with beautiful
gardens; crowded from Dec. to April). In the W. suburb *REID’S PALACE
HOTEL (Pl. a; A, 3), situated on a basalt rock and commanding fine
views, with sea-baths, etc., pens. 10–25_s._ (or in the dépendance,
VILLA VICTORIA, 8_s._ 6_d._–18_s._); HOT. BELLA VISTA (Pl. b, B 2;
Jones’s), above the Rua da Imperatriz Dona Maria, pens. from 8_s._;
HOT. ROYAL (Pl. c, A 3; Adams’s), Rua da Imperatriz Dona Amelia, pens.
from 8_s._; PENSION QUISISANA (Reuter’s), Estrada Monumental (Pl. A,
3), 8–12_s._; PENSION ALMEIDA (Pl. f; A, 3), by the Redondo.—In the
old town, REID’S CARMO HOTEL (Pl. d; D, 1), Rua do Carmo, 8_s._
6_d._–18_s._; GR.-HÔT. CENTRAL (Swiss landlady), near the pier (Caes;
Pl. C, 2); HOT. UNIVERSAL (Pl. e; C, 2), Largo da Sé, pens. 1200 rs.,
a Portug. house.—On the Monte (p. 24; comp. inset plan), with splendid
views, MONTE PALACE HOTEL (Pl. g); HOT. BELMONTE (Pl. h); REID’S MOUNT
PARK HOTEL (Pl. i), pens. 7_s._ 6_d._–10_s._; all three near the
terminus. Wine, always an extra, is dear. The Agua Minero-Natural of
Porto Santo is a good table-water (60 rs. per small bottle).

=Apartments= for the winter in numerous quintas or villas, furnished,
but without bed or table linen; from Oct. to June 40_l._ and upwards.

=Restaurants.= _Phenix_, Praça da Rainha (Pl. C, 2); _Golden Gate_,
Entrada da Cidade 7 (Pl. C, 2; with American bar).—ENGLISH TEA ROOMS,
_Café Monaco_.—WINE. _Vaccaria do Souza_, Rua de João Tavira.

=Post & Telegraph Office= (Estação Telegrapho-Postal; Pl. 5, C, 2),
Entrada da Cidade.

=Theatre.= _Theatro de Dona Maria Pia_ (Pl. 16; C, 2), opposite the
Jardim Municipal.—Evening CONCERTS twice a week in the Jardim
Municipal, etc.

=Shops= in the Praça da Constituição, Rua do Aljube, Rua do
Conselheiro Vieira, etc.; bargaining necessary; the prices are higher
when the purchaser is attended by a guide. Pedlars often charge more
than the shops.—EMBROIDERY, etc., at _Ad. v. Breymann’s_, Rua do
Conselheiro Vieira 77.—WINES, etc., sold at _Breymann’s_; also by
_Blandy Bros. & Co._ (see below); _Cossart, Gordon, & Co._, Rua do
Principe 78; _Krohn Bros. & Co._ (see below).—PHOTOGRAPHIC MATERIALS,
_Bazar do Povo_, Largo de São Sebastião.

=Banks.= _Blandy Bros. & Co._, Rua da Alfándega 26; _Reid, Castro, &
Co._, Largo de São Sebastião 5; _Banco de Portugal_, Largo da Sé;
_Krohn Bros. & Co._, Rua do Carmo 2; _L. da Rocha Machado_, Rua da
Alfándega 27.

=Physicians.= _Dr. Grabham_, Valle Formoso; _Dr. Scott_, Quinta
Perestrello; _Dr. Machado_, Rua das Mercês 1 (Pl. C, 1); _Dr.
Stevens_, Villa Ramose.—CHEMISTS. _Pharmacia Central_, Rua Bettencourt
2; _Botica dos Dois Amigos_, Largo do Collegio.

=Carriages= and =Horses= (p. 20) at _De Souza’s_, Rua do Bispo.
Bullock-cars (p. 20) in the Entrada da Cidade; saddle-horses (poor) in
the Largo de São Pedro and the Rua de João Tavira.—LITTERS (p. 20) in
the Largo de São Sebastião.

=Motor Cabs= in the Entrada da Cidade (tariff by zones; per drive
90–500 rs.; to Camara de Lobos and back 800 rs.).

=Horse Tramway= (electric line projected) from the Praça da
Constituição to the railway-station of Pombal (starting ¼ hr. before
each train; 50 rs.).—RACK & PINION RAILWAY (Caminho de Ferro do Monte)
from the Estação do Pombal (Pl. C, 1) viâ Levada, Livramento, Sant’
Anna, and Flamengo, to the Monte (p. 24); 7 trains daily in 20 min.;
fare 300, return 400 rs.

=British Consul=, _Capt. J. Boyle_, Reid’s Palace Hotel (p. 21);
vice-consul, _E. Sarsfield_.—LLOYD’S AGENTS, _Blandy Bros. & Co._ (see
above).

=Steamboat Agents.= _Blandy Bros. & Co._ (see above) for the Union
Castle, Royal Mail Steam Packet Co., Booth, Hamburg-American, and
Woermann Lines, the Empreza Nacional de Navegação and the Empreza
Insulana de Navegação; _Leça, Gomes, & Co._ for Yeowards Bros. Line;
_Gonçalves & Co._, Rua do Conselheiro Silvestre Ribeira 2, for the
Hamburg & South American Line; _J. de Freitas Martins_, Rua da
Alfándega 52, for the North German Lloyd.—For the coasting service
(Serviço costeiro) and pleasure-trips (Viagens de Recreio), see
newspapers.

=Churches.= _English_ (Pl. 4; B, 1), Rua da Bella Vista (_Rev. C.
Jones Bateman, M. A._), services on Sun. at 8 and 11 a.m., and 5.30
p.m.; _Presbyterian_ (Pl. 15; C, 2), Rua do Conselheiro; _American_
(Pl. 8; C, 2), same street, lower down.

=Club.= _English Rooms_, in the Rua da Praia, overlooking the sea,
with library and billiard-rooms. Adm. on introduction.

ONE DAY. Visit to the Monte (p. 24) in the forenoon; drive to Camara
de Lobos (p. 25) in the afternoon.

_Funchal_ (‘place of fennel’; pop. 25,800), situated in 32° 38′ N. lat. and 16° 55′ W. long., the capital of Madeira and the seat of the Portuguese governor and a bishop, is remarkable for the luxuriant subtropical verdure of its public grounds and private gardens.

On the PRAÇA DA RAINHA (Pl. C, 2), the sea-promenade, where we have a view of the Desertas (p. 20), rise the _Palacio de São Lourenço_ (Pl. 10; the governor’s residence), several _Club Houses_, and a signalling tower called the _Pilar de Benger_ (Pl. 11; ‘Benger’s Folly’). The _Varadoures Gate_ (Pl. 12; D, 2), to the E. of the custom-house, is the sole survival of a town-wall built by the Spaniards early in the 17th cent.; adjacent is the _Fruit and Fish Market_ (Mercado; Pl. D, 2).

Opposite the pier (Caes; Pl. C, 2) the Entrada da Cidade, an avenue of planes, leads to the PRAÇA DA CONSTITUIÇÃO (Pl. 13; C, 2), adorned with pleasure-grounds, in the centre of the town.

Adjacent on the W. is the *=Jardim Municipal= (public park; Pl. C, 2; evening concerts twice weekly, otherwise closed in the evening), with its exuberant wealth of vegetation and flowers. On the S. side is the _Theatre_ (p. 22).—To the E., in the Largo da Sé, rises the insignificant CATHEDRAL (_Sé_; Pl. C, 2), with a fine ceiling of Spanish juniper (Portuguese cedro).

On the E. side of the park runs the Rua de São Francisco, leading to the long RUA DO CONSELHEIRO VIEIRA (Pl. B, C, 1, 2), or Rua da Carreira the busiest street, at the N.W. end of which (on the left) is the entrance to the _Protestant Cemetery_ (Cemiterio Britanico; Pl. 3, B 2).

From the N. side of the Rua do Conselheiro Vieira we ascend past the church of _São Pedro_ (Pl. C, 1) and through the steep Calçada de Santa Clara to the convent-church of _Santa Clara_ (Pl. B, C, 1), where Zarco, the discoverer of Madeira, is buried.—Farther to the N. is the Calçada do Pico, whence the Rua do Castello to the left leads to the old Spanish =Pico Fort= (Forte de São João do Pico; Pl. B, 1), dating from 1632, famed for its *View.

From the E. end of the Rua do Conselheiro Vieira we may now cross the Largo do Collegio, with the _Jesuit Church_ of that name (Pl. C, 1), to the _Camara Municipal_, or town-hall (Pl. 2; C, 1), in the Rua dos Ferreiros. At the lower end of the same street, not far from the Cathedral, is the Largo de São Sebastião (Pl. 7; C, 2), where the Saturday market is held.

Crossing the neighbouring _Ribeira de Santa Luzia_ we soon reach the _Carmo Church_ (Pl. 6; D, 1).—Along the Ribeira de Santa Luzia ascends the horse-tramway (p. 22) to the station of the Monte railway, near which, to the E. (reached by the Rua do Pombal, Pl. C 1), is the _Museum_, containing valuable natural history collections and a large relief-map of the island. (Adm. on application; donation to poor-box.)

In the E. suburb of _Santa Maria Maior_, beyond the Ribeira de Santa Luzia and the _Ribeira de João Gomes_, is the Campo de Dom Carlos Primeiro (Pl. D, E, 2; drilling-ground), skirting the sea, and partly planted with trees. The Spanish _Forte de São Thiago_ (Pl. E, 2; now barracks), built in 1614, was dedicated to St. James the Less (São Thiago Menor), the patron saint of Funchal. Near it is the church of _Nossa Senhora do Soccorro_ (Pl. E, 2), the scene of a great procession on 1st May.

The chief streets of the =W. Suburb=, beyond the _Ribeira de São João_, flanked with pretty villas, are the RUA DA IMPERATRIZ DONA MARIA (Pl. B, 2) and the RUA DA IMPERATRIZ DONA AMELIA (Pl. A, B, 3), which last ends at the Redondo (‘round space’) near the _Ribeiro Secco_. On the S. side of the road are the _Cemetery_ (Cemiterio das Angustias; Pl. B, 2) and the _Casino Pavão_ (Pl. B, 3), with a beautiful garden extending to the abrupt coast, frequented by English and American visitors. By the sea runs the Caminho da Pontinha, leading to the _Pontinha_ (p. 21) and the harbour-battery of _Forte Ilheo_ (Pl. B, 3; ‘island fort’, Engl. _Loo Rock_).

* * * * *

EXCURSIONS. The RACK & PINION RAILWAY (p. 22), which at Levada station crosses the _Levada de Santa Luzia_ and the beautiful hill-promenade of that name, connects Funchal with the *=Monte= (hotels, see p. 21), a village on the hill at the back of the town, with numerous villas nestling amidst beautiful groves of planes and oaks. On a spur of the hill, close to the terminus of the railway (extension projected), rises the pilgrimage-church of _Nossa Senhora do Monte_, known by English visitors as the ‘Mount Church’ (1962 ft.). It is the scene of the Novena, a great nine-days’ church-festival held in summer. The terrace of the church (68 steps) commands a glorious *View of Funchal, the coast as far as the Cabo Girão (p. 25), and the blue ocean enlivened by its passing ships. A little below the church is a sacred well.

A little to the E. of the Monte is the _Curralinho_ (‘little curral’),
or _Curral dos Romeiros_ (‘pilgrims’ ravine’), overgrown with erica
and vaccinium (p. 19). This miniature curral, a gorge of the _Ribeira
de João Gomes_ (p. 23), gives a very imperfect idea of the grandeur of
the rocky ravines (p. 18) of Madeira.

Those who are pressed for time may descend to the town in 10–12 min. in a running sledge (p. 20), by the _Caminho do Monte_; but it is preferable to walk back (in 1½ hr.) by the level *_Caminho das Tilias_ which we reach by turning to the left above the church. After about ¼ M., at the beautiful _Quinta Machado_ (with a view-tower), we descend to the left by the steep _Caminho dos Saltos_ (if desired, by running sledge ordered beforehand; 600 rs.). The route leads to the S.W., past the _Quinta Olavo_, the _Levada de Santa Luzia_ (see above), and the _Quinta do Deão_, and then descends to the S.E. through the plane-avenue on the _Ribeira de Santa Luzia_ (p. 23).

A *Side-path leads, above the Quinta Olavo, to the right, across the
river-bed, to the church of _São Roque_ (1139 ft.; view; bullock-car
from Funchal 800 rs.), whence we may descend by the steep Caminho de
São Roque to the _Pico Fort_ and the _Clara Nunnery_ (p. 23).

The Rua da Imperatriz Dona Amelia (p. 24) is continued by the *_Estrada Monumental_, a road which affords delightful views. It leads from the _Ponte Monumental_ (Pl. A, 3), a bridge across the Ribeiro Secco, past a number of sugar-cane plantations and vineyards, and, leaving the shore, proceeds to the S.W. above the ocean-cave of _Forja_ and the rocky islets of _Forja_ and _Gorgolho_. It then crosses the S. slope of the _Pico da Ponta da Cruz_ (863 ft.; *View), an old crater, near the promontory of that name (p. 21), and skirts the beautiful, but not very safe bathing-beach of _Praia Formosa_. Farther to the W., in full view of the bold central range backing the Gran Curral (see below), we cross the lower bridge of the _Ribeira dos Soccorridos_ and an old lava-stream to (5½ M.) =Camara de Lobos= (which may be reached by motor-cab, p. 22), a strikingly picturesque fishing-village (pop. 6200) at the E. base of the almost perpendicular *_Cabo Girão_, with a small natural harbour (_Bahia_). The best wine in the island is yielded by the slopes in the vicinity. Route to the _Gran Curral_ by _Jardim da Serra_, see p. 26.

The EXCURSION TO THE GRAN CURRAL, on horseback or by litter (p. 20), takes nearly a whole day. We start early and take provisions with us. From the W. suburb (p. 24) we follow the Rua das Maravilhas and the Caminho de Santo Antonio (Pl. A, 1, 2), between garden-walls and vineyards, to the N.W. to the finely situated village of (2 M.) _Santo Antonio_ (985 ft.; bullock-car from Funchal 800 rs.). We descend thence to the N.W. into the side-valley of the _Ribeira do Vasco Gil_, with its pine-woods and rich pastures, and soon obtain a view towards the W., extending to the Cabo Girão (see above) and the Pico da Cruz (p. 26). We next ascend the steep side-valley of the _Ribeira da Lapa_ to the (11 M.) _Serrado Saddle_ (Eira do Serrado; about 2900 ft.), on the N.E. margin of the _Pico Serrado_ (see below). From the top of the pass we have a grand view into the great and well-watered basin of the *=Gran Curral=, or _Curral das Freiras_ (‘nuns’ valley’; once a pasture belonging to the convent of Santa Clara), enclosed by the lofty rocks of the central mountains. Far below us, above the rock-strewn bed of the _Ribeira dos Soccorridos_, we descry the village of _Livramento_ (2018 ft.), with its little church and cypress-shaded churchyard.

Those who do not care to face the rugged descent to Livramento, and the steep clamber thence to the Bocca dos Namorados (p. 26), should now ascend the *=Pico Serrado= (3347 ft.; ‘sawn-off peak’), whence we survey the mountain-range from the _Pico de Santo Antonio_ (5725 ft.) and _Pico Cidrão_ (5551 ft.) to the _Pico Ruivo_ (p. 27), the _Pico Canario_ (5500 ft.), and the _Pico Grande_ (p. 26).

Longer, but still grander, is the excursion to the W. margin of the Gran Curral. From the Estrada Monumental (see above) we turn to the N.W. past the _Quinta Nazareh_, nestling amidst araucarias, to the (2 M.) village of _São Martinho_ (765 ft.; bullock-car from Funchal 800 rs.), situated among several old craters; we then cross, to the W., the ravine of the Ribeira dos Soccorridos by the upper bridge and mount in zigzags to the (7 M.) village of _Estreito_ (1510 ft.). Our route now ascends to the N. to the (8½ M.) *_Bocca dos Namorados_ (3445 ft.), with its beautiful chestnut-wood, where we enjoy a superb view of the Gran Curral, and skirts the W. margin of the _Pico dos Bodes_ (3718 ft.) to the (10 M.) _Cova da Cevada_, a basin affording a similar view. We next follow the top of the hill to the N.W., between the Gran Curral and the E. side-valleys of the _Ribeira Brava_ (see below), to (13 M.) the *_Bocca dos Corregos_ (4466 ft.), a narrow ridge at the foot of the perpendicular rocks of the _Pico Grande_ or _Rocha Alta_ (5420 ft.). An interesting return-route is afforded by descending from the Cova da Cevada across _Jardim da Serra_ (2523 ft.) and past the _Pico da Cruz_ (3288 ft.) to _Camara de Lobos_ (p. 25).

The EXCURSION TO RABAÇAL can, if time presses, be accomplished in one
day. It is best to go by steamboat to Calheta (3 times weekly, in 1½–2
hrs.; or a small private steamer may be hired of Messrs. Blandy Bros.,
p. 22). The steamer calls first at _Camara de Lobos_ (p. 25), then
skirts the sombre rocky slopes of _Cabo Girão_ and steers past _Fajãa
dos Padres_, a village famed for its wine, to the village of _Ribeira
Brava_ (inn), where we obtain, through the curral of that name, a very
striking glimpse of the _Serra d’Agua_ (4610 ft.) and the Pico Grande
(see above). We next pass the beach of _Lugar de Baixo_, formed by a
landslip in 1803, the beautiful cape, _Ponta do Sol_, and the village
of _Magdalena_, peeping out of vines and bananas amidst the grandest
scenery of the S. coast.

At the village of =Calheta= (bad landing-place; no inn) we may find
litters if desired (each man 800–1000 rs. per day), and we obtain
provisions and torches (fachos, at 50 rs.). We now walk chiefly
through pine-wood viâ _Salão_ to the (1½ hr.) narrow and wet tunnel
(about 650 yds. in length) of the lower _Levada Nova do Rabaçal_. At
the N. end of it we obtain a very striking view of the highest part of
the valley of the _Ribeira da Janella_, richly wooded with evergreen,
oaks and laurels. A path over the rocks (which needs a steady head)
connects this levada (or conduit) with the upper _Levada Velha_,
constructed in 1836–60, and with (9½ M.) the engineers’ houses of
=Rabaçal= (3750 ft.; adm., see p. 20; fee). A little to the N.E., on
the so-called _Balcão_, we enjoy an excellent survey of the
*_Waterfall of the Risco_, which plunges from a rock, 330 ft. high,
into a ravine overgrown with climbing plants and ferns, and a little
lower down provides the water for the old conduit. Crossing the
viaduct of the latter, we skirt the new conduit, and in a few minutes
reach another luxuriantly overgrown ravine, that of the *_Vinte e
Cinco Fontes_, where no fewer than twenty-five waterfalls issue from a
narrow basin.

From Rabaçal we may ascend towards the E. (with a guide) to the (2
hrs.) plateau of _Paul da Serra_ (4656 ft.; ‘mountain swamp’), where
fogs often prevail, and the two _Tanquinhos Houses_ (about 4900 ft.;
used by the engineers; poor quarters). Near them rise the _Pico dos
Tanquinhos_ (5260 ft.) and the *_Pico Ruivo do Paul_ (5388 ft.), both
of which afford grand views of the mountains.

Scarcely less repaying is the two days’ EXCURSION TO SANTA ANNA on the
N. coast, to which a third day may be added for the ascent of the Pico
Ruivo or the Pico Areeiro. We start from the Campo da Barca at Funchal
(Pl. D, 1) and follow the Estrada do Conde Carvalhal (Pl. E, 1), which
ascends to the N.E. in windings to (3¾ M.) _Palheiro do Ferreiro_
(1857 ft.; bullock-car from Funchal 1200 rs.), the finest quinta in
the island, the property of Mr. John Blandy of Funchal (adm. on
application). Farther on we follow the road, uphill and downhill, to
(6 M.) Camacha (2369 ft.; no inn; bullock-car 2500 rs.), a well-to-do
village of basket-makers in a charming wooded region, with many villas
owned by English residents in Funchal. Beyond the _Pico dos Iroses_
(p. 21) the road, now less attractive, crosses the gorges of the
_Ribeira de Porto Novo_ and _Ribeira de Santa Cruz_, and then, turning
to the N., reaches (13 M.) _Santo Antonio da Serra_ (2320 ft.), a poor
village on a grassy tableland. We descend thence to the N.W. into a
sequestered valley carpeted with flowers (Amaryllis Belladonna, etc.),
where a rough path leads to the (15½ M.) _Portella Pass_ (2021 ft.),
which commands a superb *View of the mountains at the head of the
Metade Valley (see below), of the N.E. coast from the Penha d’Aguia
(see below) to the Ponta de São Lourenço (p. 20), and of the island of
Porto Santo (p. 20). We now descend, at first by a zigzag path,
through vineyards and sugar-cane plantations, to (18 M.) _Porto da
Cruz_ (no inn), a picturesque little seaport at the S.E. base of the
abrupt *_Penha d’Aguia_ (1949 ft.; ‘eagle-rock’), the most curiously
shaped hill in the island. We next ascend the saddle to the S. of the
Penha d’Aguia, noteworthy for its marvellously rich vegetation, and
descend the ravine of the _Ribeiro Frio_ (see below) to _Fayal_, a
village not far from the charming _Pescaria_, a little bay to the N.W.
of the Penha d’Aguia. The church-terrace here affords a grand survey
of the valleys of the Ribeiro Frio, the Ribeiro da Metade, and the
Ribeiro Secco (all mentioned below). From Fayal we then cross the
_Cortadas Pass_, or _Bocca do Cortado_ (1985 ft.), to (24 M.) Santa
Anna (1408 ft.; Hot. Figueira, very fair; pop. 3200), a village well
adapted for some stay, the capital of the _Comarca de Santa Anna_, the
most fertile region in the island (sugar-cane, sweet potatoes, yams,
etc.). From Santa Anna a rough mule-track, very indistinct at places,
ascends past the curious basaltic _Homem em Pé_ (‘man on foot’), and
lastly over the saddle by the _Encumeada Alta_ (5948 ft.), to the top
of the _Pico Ruivo_ (6060 ft.; p. 18), which commands a most imposing,
but seldom very clear panorama of the central chain, part of the Gran
Curral (p. 25), and the E. half of the island.

Turning back from Santa Anna, we first wend our way towards the S. to
the _Cova da Roda_, where we again overlook the N.E. coast as far as
the Portella Pass and the Porto da Cruz; we then cross the _Ribeiro
Secco_ and the (29½ M.) _Cruzinhas Ridge_, and descend into the valley
of the *_Ribeiro da Metade_, a gorge vying in grandeur with the Gran
Curral. A zigzag path (‘Quatorze Voltas’) ascends thence to the little
venda (inn) of _Cedro Gordo_, and then crosses the _Serra de Caramuja_
into the (33 M.) valley of the _Ribeiro Frio_, with its splendid
groves of tilwood trees (see p. 19), laurel, and erica. Above the
village of that name rises the _Balcão_, a rock of basalt (near the
not easily accessible _Levada do Furado_), where we have a grand *View
of the Metade Valley with mountain-background. Our route winds up the
rocks of the Feiteiras (‘ferns’) and the _Pouso Saddle_, with its fine
views, to the (34½ M.) _Pouso_ or _Poïzo Refuge_ (4603 ft.), situated
on a dreary plateau. From the Pouso Refuge we may without difficulty
climb the _Pico Areeiro_ (5893 ft.; 1¼–1½ hr.), a famous point of
view, but almost always capped with clouds. The bridle-path ascends
past the _Observatorio_; we may then descend direct to the Vista dos
Navios.

The next part of our route, from the Pouso Refuge to the Monte (p.
24), is uninteresting. From the _Vista dos Navios_ (‘view of ships’),
whence the bay of Funchal is visible, the track descends to the head
of the valley of the _Ribeira de João Gomes_ (p. 23), rounds the E.
slope of the _Pico do Arrebentão_ (3842 ft.), to which point a running
sledge (p. 20) may be ordered from Funchal, and then descends rapidly,
partly in windings, to the (39 M.) _Monte_. Thence to (41½ M.)
_Funchal_, see p. 24.

4. The Canary Islands.

STEAMBOAT LINES. 1. _Union Castle Line_, fortnightly from London and
Southampton, touching alternately at Las Palmas and Teneriffe; fares
to either, 1st cl. 14–16, 2nd 9–11 _gs._ (return about ⅔ more). For
summer tours, comp. p. 17.—2. _Royal Mail Steam Packet Co._, see p.
17.—3. _Peninsular & Oriental Branch Service_, from London monthly for
Australia, calling at Las Palmas; 12_l._, return (tickets
interchangeable with No. 5 from Teneriffe) 20_l._—4. _Bucknall Line_,
monthly from London to Teneriffe; 10_l._, return 18_l._—5. _Aberdeen
(Thompson’s) Line_, from London and Plymouth monthly for Australia,
calling at Teneriffe; 13_l._, return (also valid for No. 3) 22_l._—6.
_Aberdeen (Rennie’s) Line_, from London, about once every 10 days, for
S. and E. Africa, calling alternately at Las Palmas and Teneriffe; 10
or 8_l._, return 18 or 14_l._—7. _German East African Line_, once
every 3 weeks from Southampton for S. Africa, calling at Las Palmas
and Teneriffe, 12_l._ 10_s._ or 7_l._ 10_s._; no return-fares, but an
abatement of 20 per cent is allowed on the fare back to Southampton,
either by this line, by the Woermann, or by the Hamburg-American
Line.—8. _Woermann Line_, monthly from Dover to Las Palmas, and
monthly to Teneriffe; fares and abatement for return, same as No.
7.—9, 10. _New Zealand Line_ and _Shaw, Savill, & Albion_, each
monthly from London and Plymouth for Teneriffe, 14_l._ or 11_l._
10_s._; interchangeable return-ticket 22 or 17_l._—11. _Yeoward Bros.
Line_, from Liverpool, weekly pleasure cruises to Teneriffe, Grand
Canary, and back (10–12 _gs._), also single tickets (6–8 _gs._).—12.
_Natal Line_, from London fortnightly for S. Africa calling at Las
Palmas, fare 8 _gs._, return 15_l._ 2_s._ 6_d._—13. _Federal, Houlder,
& Shire Lines_, see p. 17.—There are also steamers to the Canary
Islands from Cadiz (see p. 58), Genoa (see p. 114), Naples, and
Trieste (see p. 425).—It should be noted that almost all the British
lines have recently raised their fares by ten per cent in consequence,
it is said, of a rise in the price of coal. Inquiry as to this
‘surtax’ should therefore be made in every case.—The direct steamers
perform the voyage (1707 M. from Southampton to Teneriffe) in 5–6
days; the coasting steamers (viâ Oporto, Lisbon, etc.; about 2250 M.)
take much longer.

In addition to the above-mentioned steamers communication among the
islands themselves is effected by the small cargo-boats of the
_Compañía de Vapores Correos Interinsulares Canarios_ which ply 9
times monthly between Teneriffe and Las Palmas in 6 hrs. (fare 20 or
15 pesetas); and by those of the _Servicio de Pailebotes_ which ply
weekly from Teneriffe to Las Palmas, and weekly to Santa Cruz de la
Palma. Inquiry as to the sailings, which often vary, should be made on
the spot. The Spanish cuisine on board these local boats is not very
inviting.

The Canary Islands (_Islas Canarias_ or _Afortunadas_, _i.e._ ‘fortunate islands’), the _Makáron Nésoi_ or _Insulae Fortunatae_ of antiquity, in 27° 30′ to 29° 26′ N. lat., and 13° 15′ to 18° 2′ W. long., lie off the coast of Mauretania, the nearest point being Cape Juby (p. 104). There are in all thirteen islands, forming a Spanish province of a total area of 3305 sq. M., with a population of 364,000. They consist of two groups. The E. group is composed of _Lanzarote_ (rising to 2231 ft. above the sea), _Fuerteventura_ (2789 ft.), and five smaller islands (_Alegranza_, _Graciosa_, etc.); to the W. group belong _Gran Canaria_ (6400 ft.), _Teneriffe_ (12,175 ft.; once the meridian used by the Spaniards and the Dutch), _Gomera_ (4366 ft.), _Palma_ (7737 ft.), and _Hierro_ or _Ferro_ (4643 ft.), the meridian used by France since the time of Louis XIII. (1634). Teneriffe, Gran Canaria, and sometimes Palma are the islands usually visited by tourists; the others chiefly attract botanists and geologists.

The Canaries, supposed by some geographers to form part of the submerged continent of _Atlantis_, and by others to have been outlying spurs of the Atlas of Morocco (p. 93), have the same geological formation as Madeira (see pp. 17, 18, 19). ‘In Fuerteventura especially there occur masses of slag and lava, thrown up by countless eruptions, superimposed on the diabase formation, which is still visible in many places; and in Teneriffe we find phonolithic and trachytic rocks as well as the basaltic. Grand old craters (_calderas_) exist in Ferro, Gran Canaria, and most of all in Palma and Teneriffe. The enormous basin of the _Cañadas_ in Teneriffe has been almost entirely filled up with later streams of lava and scoriæ, which have formed a distinct volcanic cone, the great _Pico de Teide_, 12,175 ft. in height.’ The last considerable eruptions were those of 1677 in Palma, of 1730–36 and 1824 in Lanzarote, and of 1705, 1706, 1796, and 1798 on the N.W. coast of Teneriffe, all of which caused great havoc. On the occasion of the eruption of 1909 in Teneriffe a large lava-stream, accompanied by the emission of vapour and stones from the central crater (see p. 41), burst forth near the foot of the Chahorra (p. 42) and advanced in a N.W. direction towards Santiago and El Tanque but came to rest before reaching these villages. There was little damage and no loss of human life. In the W. islands, which like Madeira rise very abruptly from the sea, the effects of erosion in the broad valleys, with their rich soil, as well as in the deep ravines (_barrancos_) of more recent origin, are specially noticeable.

The climate of the Canaries is remarkable for the striking contrasts prevailing between the E. and the W. groups on the one hand, and between the lower and the higher levels on the other. In the almost treeless islands of _Lanzarote_ and _Fuerteventura_ (62 M. to the N.W. of Cape Juby) years sometimes elapse without rainfall, while the dreaded _tiempo del sur_, the hot and extremely dry wind from the Sahara, covers them with dust and sand and often brings swarms of locusts. Even more disastrous for agriculture are the sandy dunes or coast-hills, thrown up by the currents off the African shores, the sand of which is driven inland by violent N. winds. The _Gran Canaria_, on the other hand, though by no means free from the locust pest, holds an intermediate position in point of climate and scenery between the more continental E. group of islands and the almost wholly oceanic W. group. Owing to the influence of the gulf-stream (p. 18) and the zone of high air-pressure prevalent in the W. Canaries in winter, the N. coast of _Teneriffe_ and the islands of _Gomera_ and _Palma_ enjoy a remarkably mild and equable winter climate (the mean temperature of winter at Puerto Orotava being 60° Fahr. and the minimum 51°). In the region tempered by the trade-wind clouds, which gather at a height varying from 2300 to 5000 ft. above the sea, even the summer temperature is quite bearable; but on the high mountains, above the cloud-zone, the air is extremely dry, and the burning heat of the day is suddenly followed, as in the tropics, by a severe chill. The rainfall at Santa Cruz de Tenerife averages 12 inches, at Santa Cruz de la Palma 14 in., at Puerto Orotava 17 in., at Laguna 22 inches. The lowest snow-line is about 3300 ft.

The vegetation of the W. islands, the Eldorado of botanists, surpasses that of Madeira in variety, though not in luxuriance; but it is confined to the forest-zone in the region of the trade-wind clouds, and to the low ground irrigated with the aid of these clouds, where the soil consists of disintegrated diabase, tufa, and lava. On the other hand large tracts of land, especially in the Gran Canaria and on the S. and E. coasts of Teneriffe, are entirely destitute of vegetation, even in winter, while in summer the verdure of the cultivated land is often covered with a mantle of grey dust.

The Canary Islands, together with Madeira and the Azores, have been described as a region ‘where the tertiary flora, destroyed in Europe during the glacier epoch, has survived and developed, at least since the pliocene age, in insular solitude’. To the primæval African flora, the same as that of the original ‘diabasic Canaries’, belong in particular the stately Canary pine (Pinus canariensis), several species of laurel, such as the Laurus canariensis, the _viñatigo_ (Persea indica), the aloe, the oleander-leaved Kleinia neriifolia, the cactus-like euphorbias, the _balo_ (Plocama pendula), and the famous dragon-tree (Dracæna Draco). Besides the endemic trees and plants are others of very early origin, the seeds of which were originally brought over from India or America by the gulf-stream. During the Spanish period countless other plants, now cosmopolitan, were imported from America, fruit-trees from Europe, and shrubs from the Mediterranean, which last, favoured by the climate, develop into bushy trees. In the gardens, which are mostly enclosed by high walls, we are struck with the gorgeous wealth of bougainvilleas, gloxinias, poinsettias, bignonias, daturas, walbergias, passifloras, and many other flowers. In the lower and more tropical districts grow, side by side, bananas (_plátanos_), tomatoes, sugar-cane (_caña de azúcar_), yams (Span. _ñame_), tobacco, oranges and lemons, prickly-pear (Opuntia Tuna), coffee-plants, Peruvian pepper-trees (_pimenteros_), E. Indian bread-fruit, mango and camphor trees, eucalypti, cork-trees, tamarisks (_tarajales_), araucarias, magnolias, fig-trees, Japanese medlars, palms (about 25 varieties), notably the superb Canary palm (Phœnix canariensis or Jubæ Webb), the date-palm (p. 171), the royal palm (Oreodoxa regia), and, in Palma, the cocoa-nut palm. The vineyards, yielding the famous _Malmsey_ (p. 19) and _Vidueño_ wines, rise on the S. side of Teneriffe from the lower land to a height of 4070 ft. above the sea-level. In the upper cultivated regions the chief crops and fruits are wheat, potatoes, lupins, maize, chestnuts, walnuts, and, among other European fruits, peaches. On the rocky sides of the barrancos occur everywhere the aloe, the cactus-like Euphorbia canariensis (Span. _cardón_), the tabayba (Euphorbia Regis Jubæ), the orchilla lichen (Roccella tinctoria; woad), and Sempervivum (house-leek; some 60 varieties). At the bottom of the barrancos and in the cloud-region we encounter beautiful underwood, composed of evergreen myrtles and laurels, the strawberry-tree (Arbutus canariensis), ericas, stemless ferns, and a few climbing plants. Above the level of the trade-wind clouds we may still meet with the cistus, the Canary pine (up to 7050 ft. above the sea), the white Cytisus proliferus (Span. _escobón_), and the Adenocarpus frankenoides (Span. _codeso_), a kind of gorse. The Alpine retama (Spartocytisus supranubius; Span. _retama blanca_), a kind of broom, the commonest plant in the Cañadas, grows on the Peak up to a height of 10,300 ft.; but a few mosses and lichens alone reach the summit.

The fauna of the Canaries is remarkably poor. The characteristic bird is the canary (Serinus canariensis), which, as in Madeira, is of a greenish-grey colour, while the yellow canaries are imported. Mosquitoes, especially on the E. and S. coasts of the islands, fleas, and flies, including some whose bite is very unpleasant, abound in summer. The more important fish are cod, tunny, and sardines. Chief among domestic animals is the goat. Camels were introduced from the continent in 1405.

The islands, which were probably known to the Carthaginians and Greeks, were for a time occupied by king Juba II. (p. 244) with a view to the manufacture of purple dye from the juice of the Orchilla (see above). At that period the population consisted chiefly of the so-called _Guanches_ (from _guan_, son, and _Chenerfe_, Teneriffe), whose culture down to the middle ages was still that of the flint age, while their inscriptions are Libyan in character. In 1402–96 the islands were conquered, first by the Normans, under Jean de Betancourt, at the instance of the kings of Castile, and later by the Spaniards, with the result that the Guanches, in spite of their heroic resistance, were largely exterminated or sold into slavery. A few survivors still lingered in their cave-dwellings, as at Atalaya (p. 46) and Artenara (p. 46), but others intermarried with Moorish immigrants (1405), and, in the Spanish period, with Norman, S. Spanish, and Irish settlers. Their language has been extinct since the 17th century. A few peculiarities of the present population, which somewhat resembles that of S. Spain and of the W. Indies, survive in the costume of the peasants, consisting of a white blanket (_matta_) wrapped round the body like a shepherd’s cloak, in their quaint old pottery, in the whistling language of Gomera, and in the national _gofio_, a kind of porridge of maize and wheat. The Grand Canary contains also several villages of negroes, descendants of the slaves on the sugar-plantations. Among the foreigners there are 2100 English, 600 French, and 600 Germans.

Santa Cruz de Tenerife and Puerto de la Luz near Las Palmas, the chief ports of the Canaries, as also Puerto Orotava (p. 39), Santa Cruz de la Palma, and others, all declared free harbours in 1852, are rising places and compete with Madeira in provisioning the ocean steamers. The trade is in British, Spanish, and German hands. The chief exports are bananas, tomatoes, early potatoes and other vegetables, and wine. The only industry of any importance is the embroidery and lace-making of Teneriffe (‘calado’ embroidery after Mexican patterns, rosette-work introduced from Paraguay, the rich Vilaflor lace, and embroidery in relief from Venetian and Irish models). The cochineal insect (living on the prickly-pear plant) was introduced from Honduras in 1826, and for many years its culture yielded large profits to the islanders, but the discovery of aniline dyes has well-nigh ruined this industry.

The best SEASON for a tour in the Canaries is from the beginning of
March to the end of May. The best winter-quarters for invalids are to
be found at Puerto Orotava or the more remote Güimar in Teneriffe, and
at the Monte in the Grand Canary. Good quarters are obtainable also at
Santa Cruz and Laguna in Teneriffe, and at Las Palmas in the Grand
Canary, where most of the best hotels are in the English style, and
English money circulates freely. The Spanish ‘fondas’, where the
national currency is in vogue, fall short of modern requirements,
while the country inns are mostly wretched taverns.

The chief public conveyances in the islands are, in Teneriffe, the
electric tramway from Santa Cruz to Tacoronte, and in the Grand Canary
the harbour tramway at Las Palmas; the only others are the dirty and
often crowded _coches públicos_, the very expensive four-seated
vehicles, and the _tartanas_ or gigs. For mountain excursions horses
or mules are used, the _arriero_ or attendant serving as a guide.

Among numerous BOOKS on the Canary Islands are _Samler Brown’s_ guide
(see p. 20); _Whitford’s_ The Canary Islands as a Winter Resort
(London, 1890; 7_s._ 6_d._); _Ward’s_ Vale of Orotava (London, 1903);
_C. Piazzi Smyth’s_ Teneriffe, an Astronomer’s Experiment (London,
1858); and _Olivia Stone’s_ Tenerife and its Six Satellites (London,
1889).

* * * * *

=Teneriffe=, Span. _Tenerife_, the largest and most populous of the islands, 51½ M. long, 31 M. in breadth, and 781 sq. M. in area, contains about 140,000 inhab., mostly living on the N. coast. The island is composed of three mountain-ranges, chiefly of eruptive rock of a basaltic character, which have been welded together, probably since the miocene period, by great phonolithic and trachytic eruptions. These are the _Anaga Mts._ on the N.E., the _Teno Mts._ on the N.W., and the _Adeje Mts._ in the Bandas del Sur. Beyond the lofty plain of Laguna the Anaga range is prolonged to the Llano de la Maja by the massive _Cumbre_. In the centre of the island, from the enormous crater-ring of Las Cañadas, and high above the trade-wind clouds, towers the mighty _Peak of Teneriffe_, or _Pico de Teide_ (12,175 ft.), visible for 100 M. around.

Approaching the island from the N., we first sight the sombre and wildly fissured _Anaga Mts._ (3406 ft.). We steer past the lighthouse (Faro; 811 ft.) a little to the N.W. of the _Punta del Drago_, whose light is visible for 40 M., then skirt the rocky E. coast, with the _Punta de Anaga_ and _Punta Antequera_, and at length cast anchor in the open roads of the bay of _Santa Cruz_.

=Santa Cruz de Tenerife.=—ARRIVAL. Passengers are conveyed in
steam-launches (_falúas_) or in rowing-boats to the pier (Muelle; Pl.
C, 2; landing or embarkation 1 peseta, each trunk 75 c.). The hotels,
which send their porters on board, charge 3–5 shillings for the
landing and conveyance to the hotel of each passenger and his luggage.