Chapter V: Sea Routes in the Western Mediterranean (3)

The steamer passes between the hardly less steep S. coast of Elba and the flat island of _Pianosa_ (85 ft.; the ancient _Planasia_), and steers to the S.S.W. towards the S. coast of Sardinia. On the left, about 26 M. from Elba, appears the bold granitic island of _Montecristo_ (2126 ft.), the ancient _Oglasa_, the scene of the well-known novel ‘The Count of Monte Cristo’, by Alex. Dumas.

The _Straits of Bonifacio_ (p. 133) lie far to the W. of the steamer’s course. Off the N.E. coast of _Sardinia_ we first sight the massive rocky island of _Tavolara_ (1821 ft.), the _Bucina_ of the Romans, masking the _Bay of Terranova_; then, when off _Capo Comino_, the eastmost point of Sardinia, we see _Monte Alvo_ (3701 ft.), a little inland. The somewhat monotonous S.E. coast of the island is backed by sterile mountains. We pass the little port of _Arbatax_ (_Tortolì Marina_), the _Capo di Bellavista_, the _Capo Sferra Cavallo_, the _Monte Ferrau_ (2878 ft.), the _Capo Ferrato_, and lastly the islet of _Serpentara_.

Beyond _Capo Carbonara_, the S.E. point of Sardinia, and the _Isola dei Cavoli_ (p. 118), opens the broad _Gulf of Cagliari_ on the flat S. coast of the island. On the hill-side at the head of the gulf, beyond the fortified _Cape Sant’Elia_, which shuts off the inner _Golfo di Quarto_, lies the town of _Cagliari_. Around it are several large coast-lakes, the _Stagno di Molentargius_, on the E., the _Stagno di Cagliari_, on the W., and others, which yield quantities of salt. The latter has been separated from the gulf only since the middle ages by a neck of land called the _Plaia_.

=Cágliări.=—The STEAMER is moored in the Darsena. Landing or
embarkation 40, with baggage 60 c.

HOTELS. _Scala di Ferro_, Viale Regina Margherita 5, with good
restaurant, R. 2½–3 fr.; _Quattro Mori_, Largo Carlo Felice, R. from 2
fr., also restaurant.—_Café Torino_, Via Roma.

POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE, Via Lodovico Baille 22.—CAB (bargaining
advisable) 1, at night ½ fr. per drive; baggage 20 c.

BRITISH CONSUL (also Lloyd’s Agent), _R. E. Pernis_.

_Cagliari_, Sardin. _Casteddu_, the Roman _Carales_, a very ancient town, having been founded by the Phœnicians, now the seat of a university and of an archbishop, with 48,000 inhab., lies in one of the hottest and driest regions in Italy. At the foot of the _Castello_ or old town (290 ft.) lie the new quarters of _Villanova_, _Marina_, and _Stampace_, adjoined on the W. by the suburb of _Sant’Avendrace_.

The VIA ROMA, an avenue skirting the sea, the fashionable corso in the evening, leads from the _Palazzo Comunale_ to the Largo Carlo Felice. On the right are two covered _Markets_, which are worth seeing in the forenoon. This largo leads to the PIAZZA YENNE, the business centre of the modern town.

At the N. end of the Largo Carlo Felice rises a statue of _Charles Felix I._ (1821–31), and in the Piazza Yenne an antique column. Between these passes the main thoroughfare of the town: to the left the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, ending near a group of ancient Roman houses recently excavated, now called _Casa di Tigellio_; to the right, leading to the upper town, the animated VIA MANNO (popularly ‘_La Costa_‘), with numerous shops, where among other things the gold ornaments commonly worn by the country-people should be noticed.

From the Piazza della Costituzione, at the S.E. end of the Via Manno, the *VIALE REGINA ELENA runs to the N., beneath the precipitous E. side of the abrupt Castello. It affords a fine view of the ancient town-wall, of the cathedral, and of the picturesque rear of the castle-buildings; below, on the right, lies Villanova, with its quaint tiled roofs, while beyond it we have a splendid view of Cape Sant’ Elia and across the wide plain of Quarto to the mountains.

From the _Giardino Pubblico_, at the N. end of the promenade, we mount to the W. to the _Passeggiata Buon Cammino_ (see below).

Adjoining the Via Manno (p. 144) is the small Piazzetta de’Martiri d’Italia, whence the Via Giuseppe Mazzini ascends in two bends to the *_Castello_, still fortified in mediæval style. At the top is the new _Passeggiata Coperta_, one of the finest points in the town. The Via dell’Università leads hence to the left to the _University_ and to the ponderous _Torre dell’Elefante_, which, according to the inscription, was erected by the Pisans in 1307.

Straight on we pass through the _Torre dell’Aquila_, an old gateway now enclosed within the _Palazzo Boyl_, to the VIA LAMARMORA, the main street in the Castello, which is connected with the parallel streets by steep lanes, dark vaulted passages, and steps.

From the terraced little Piazza del Municipio, with the council-hall of the old town, a flight of steps to the right ascends to the _Cathedral_ (Santa Cecilia), completed by the Pisans in 1312, but since then frequently altered. A new façade, in keeping with the old building, is now under construction.

Farther to the N., in the Piazza dell’ Indipendenza, is the Pisan _Torre San Pancrazio_ (14th cent.), a modern addition to which contains the very notable MUSEUM OF ANTIQUITIES (if closed apply to the director, Sig. Nissardi). Besides Phœnician and Roman antiquities we may note the cork model of a nuraghe, one of the conical fortresses built by the aboriginal Iberian inhabitants.

Going through the _Citadel_, which bounds the Castello on the N., we follow the _Passeggiata Buon Cammino_ to the Piazza d’Armi. Just beyond the barracks a road to the left leads to the Roman—

_Amphitheatre_ (greater diameter 97, smaller 80 yds.; arena 55 by 37 yds.), with tiers of seats mostly hewn in the rock.

Below the amphitheatre lie the garden of the _Poor House_ (Ricovero di Mendicità) and the _Botanic Garden_ (Thurs. 4–7), both containing remains of antique _Irrigation Works_, which are continued on the cliffs to the N.W. of the old town. Close by is the ancient NECROPOLIS of Carales. Nearest the town are the Punic tomb-chambers, sunk perpendicularly in the rock (care should be taken here), and farther to the W. are the mostly horizontal Roman tombs.

From the ruined castle of _San Michele_, at the top of a hill about 2
M. to the N. of the Piazza d’Armi (p. 145), we overlook the _Stagno di
Cagliari_ (p. 144) and the _Campidano_, a fruitful, but fever-stricken
plain between the bays of Cagliari and Oristano (p. 129), where the
clay-built villages and the cactus hedges recall N. Africa.

See also _Baedeker’s Southern Italy._

The STEAMER on leaving the Gulf of Cagliari steers to the S.S.E.; astern we soon sight Cape Spartivento (p. 118), at the N.W. end of the gulf. For the voyage along the Tunisian coast, and for _Tunis_, see R. 21 and p. 329.

Voyage from Tunis to _Algiers_, see R. 22; to _Tripoli_, see R. 64.

26. From Naples to Tunis viâ Palermo.

FROM NAPLES TO PALERMO (193 M.). =1.= Steamers of the _Ferrovie dello
Stato_ (Line C) daily in 9 hrs., at 10.45 p.m. (returning at 8.30
p.m.); fare 25 fr. 5 or 15 fr. 65 c.—=2.= _Società Nazionale_, Line
XVI (see below) every Mon. evening in 12 hrs., and Lines X & XI every
second Frid. aft. in 17¾ hrs. (fares 25 fr. 5, 15 fr. 65 c.).—=3.=
_Adria Co._ (RR. 23, 24) every Thurs. afternoon, in 15 hrs.; fare 18
fr., without food.—=4.= _Lloyd Sabaudo_ 1–3 times monthly (comp. R.
24). Passengers, both going and coming, should rise early in order to
enjoy the superb approaches to the bays of Palermo and Naples.

FROM GENOA TO PALERMO DIRECT (494 M.) every Thurs. (returning on Wed.)
by Line XXII (for Palermo, Trapani, Syracuse, and Catania) of the
_Società Nazionale_ (fare 80 or 55 fr.).

FROM PALERMO TO TUNIS (217 M.). =1.= _Società Nazionale_: =a.= Line
XVI (from Naples, see above), leaving Palermo Tues. aft., Trapani
Tues. evening, arrives at Tunis Wed. morning (returning from Tunis
Wed. night, from Trapani Thurs. morning, from Palermo Thurs. evening,
arr. at Naples Frid. morning); fare from Palermo to Tunis 64 fr. 25 or
43 fr. 25 c.; =b.= Line XVII, from Palermo to Pantelleria and Tunis
(small cargo-boats), calling at Castellammare del Golfo, Trapani,
Favignana, Marsala, Mazzara, Sciacca, and the island of Pantelleria;
dep. from Palermo Thurs. morning, from Mazzara (reached also by
railway, 89 M. in 4¼ hrs.; 18 fr. 25, 12 fr. 80, or 8 fr. 30 c.) Frid.
afternoon (landing or embarkation in fine weather only), arr. at Tunis
Sat. evening (returning from Tunis on Sun. evening, arr. at Mazzara on
Mon. evening, and at Palermo Tues. night; fare from Mazzara 73 fr. or
50 fr. 35 c.)—=2.= _Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache Co._), cargo-steamer
from Palermo to Tunis direct (coming from Marseilles, R. 21), on Wed.
noon, in 18 hrs. (returning Thurs. at noon); fare 60 or 40
fr.—Combined tickets (Naples-Palermo-Tunis) are available by either of
the two companies’ boats.

Agents at Naples, Palermo, and Tunis, see pp. 137, 148, 331.

Naples, see p. 135. The bay is usually quitted at night. We proceed to the S.S.W., through the _Bocca Grande_ (p. 133). After about 1¼ hr. we skirt the rocky W. coast of _Capri_ (p. 154).

Towards morning appears to the S.W. the island of _Ustĭca_ (784 ft.), which was visited by an earthquake in March 1906; to the S.E. in clear weather are seen _Filicuri_ (2543 ft.; Greek _Phoinikusa_) and _Alicuri_ (2175 ft.; the ancient _Ericusa_), the westmost of the _Lipari Islands_ (p. 155); beyond lies the N. coast of _Sicily_, from _Cape Gallo_ (p. 152) and the finely shaped _Monte Pellegrino_ (p. 151) to the _Madoníe Mts._ (6480 ft.), snow-clad in winter.

A scene of striking beauty is revealed as we steam into the *_Bay of Palermo_, which opens towards the E., between Monte Pellegrino and the smaller pointed headland of _Monte Catalfano_ (1237 ft.), backed by a circus of grand mountains, _Monte Cuccio_ (3448 ft.), _Monte Grifone_ (2550 ft.), and others. After passing between the harbour piers, the _Antemurale_ on the S. and the _Molo_ (lighthouse) on the N., we observe on the left the shallow old harbour of _La Cala_ (p. 149) with the ruined fort of _Castellammare_.

* * * * *

=Palermo.=—ARRIVAL. The steamers from Naples are berthed at the new
Santa Lucia Pier (Pl. G, 4, 5); in the case of the others landing or
embarkation is effected by boat (60 c.; with baggage 1 fr.). The
custom-house examination is slight. Porter (facchino) for hand-bag 10,
trunk 50 c.—From the pier to the town ca. ¾ M. (tramway No. 1, see
below). Omnibuses or motor-cars from the hotels await steamers at the
pier. Cabs, see below.

=Hotels= (most frequented Feb.-April). *VILLA IGIEA, ¼ hr. to the N.
of the quay, at the Acquasanta terminus of tramways Nos. 1 & 7, near
the sea, with park, casino, and fine view, R. from 8, B. 2, déj. 5, D.
7, omn. 3 fr.; *EXCELSIOR PALACE (Pl. e; G, 2), Via della Libertà,
near the Giardino Inglese, good restaur., R. from 4, B. 1½, D. 6, omn.
1½ fr.; *HÔT. DES PALMES (Pl. a; E, 3), Via Stabile 103, R. 4–12, B.
1½, D. 6, omn. 1½ fr.; three houses of the first class, closed in
summer. The following, also of the first class, are open throughout
the year. *HÔT. DE FRANCE (Pl. c; C, 5), near the Giardino Garibaldi,
R. 4–10, B. 1½, D. 5, omn. 1½ fr.; *TRINACRIA (Pl. b; C, 5), with sea
view, entrance in Via Butera, R. from 4, B. 1½, D. 5, omn. 1½ fr.;
SAVOY (Pl. g; E, 3), Via Cavour, R. from 3, D. 4½, omn. 1–1½ fr.;
PANORMUS (Pl. k; E, 3, 4), Via Michele Amari 11, R. from 2½, B. 1¼,
déj. 2½, D. 3½ fr.—Less pretending (open all the year round): MILANO
(Pl. f; F, 3), Via Emerico Amari 114, R. from 3½, omn. 1 fr., well
spoken of; ALBERGO VITTORIA (Pl. h; D, 4), Via Bandiera 31, and
CENTRAL (Pl. d; C, 3), Corso Vittorio Emanuele 343, R. from 2 fr.,
both with restaurant; PATRIA (Pl. i; B, 4), Via Alloro 96 (view from
roof-terrace), CAVOUR, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 330, both hôtels garnis
(R. from 1½ fr.).

=Restaurants= (Italian cooking; à la carte). _Gran Caffè Nuovo_, in
the Teatro Biondo (Pl. C, 4), _Restaurant de Paris_, Via Maqueda 200,
both good. Plainer: _Vanini_, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 405; _Ristorante
Napoli_, same street, No. 265; _Ristorante Bologni_, same street, No.
381.

=Cafés= (rarely frequented in the morning). _Caffè del Teatro Massimo_
(p. 151); _Trinacria_, Quattro Canti di Campagna (Pl. E, 3);
_Caflisch_, Via Maqueda 250; _Café Italia_, Via Cavour.—_English Tea
Rooms_, Piazza Marina 41.—BEER. _Gran Caffè Nuovo_ (see above);
_Trinacria_ (see above); _Gambrinus_, Teatro Massimo.

=Cabs.= For 1–4 pers., within Via Lincoln, Corso Tukery, Piazza dell’
Indipendenza, and Piazza Ucciardone, per drive 50 c., from midnight to
dawn 1 fr.; to outer quarters, drive under ½ hr., also to the quay or
the railway-stations 1 fr.; from midnight to dawn 1 fr. 50 c.: one
hour 1 fr. 80 c., each addit. ¼ hr. 40 c.—Hand-bag 20, trunk 40
c.—Driving in the inner city on Good Friday prohibited.—For long
drives a bargain should be made; thus, to Monreale (p. 152), with stay
of 1½ hr., 7–8 (or out of season 4–6) fr.

=Tramways= (within the city 10, transfer 15 c.). Among the chief are:
=1.= From _Piazza Marina_ (Pl. C, 5) to Via Francesco Crispi (Pl. E,
F, 4), Piazza Ucciardone (Pl. G, 4), and _Acquasanta_ (Villa
Igiea).—=4.= From _Porta Maqueda_ (Pl. D, E, 3), to Via Francesco
Crispi, Piazza Ucciardone, and _Falde_ (p. 151).—=7.= From _Piazza
Marina_ to Via Lincoln (Pl. B, A, 6–4; Central Station), Corso Tukery,
Piazza dell’ Indipendenza (Pl. B, 1), Corso Alberto Amedeo (Pl. B-D,
1), Politeama Garibaldi (Pl. F, 3), and _Acquasanta_ (Villa
Igiea).—=9.= From _Piazza Bologni_ (Pl. C, 3) to Piazza dell’
Indipendenza, Rocca (p. 152), and _Monreale_ (p. 152), every ½ hr., in
35 min.; fare 40 (back 30) c.—Above Rocca (gradient ca. 1 in 8) there
is a funicular section 1100 yds. long.

=Post Office.= (Pl. C, 3), Piazza Bologni.—=Telegraph. Office= (Pl. C,
3), Via Maqueda 222; also in the Piazza Marina.

=Steamboat Lines.= _Società Nazionale_, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 96,
corner of Piazza Marina; _Ferrovie dello Stato_ (steamer service), J.
& V. Florio, Via Roma; _Navigation Mixte_ and _White Star_, A.
Tagliavia, same street, No. 51; _Austro-American_ (p. 425), A. Lauria;
_Cunard_, Piazza Marina 13; _Anchor Line_, E. G. Orr (see below).

=Banks.= _Banca Commerciale_, _d’Italia_, and _di Sicilia_, all in
Corso Vittorio Emanuele.—_Thos. Cook & Son_, same street, No. 155.

=Consuls.= British, _R. G. Macbean_, Via Francesco Crispi;
vice-consul, _W. A. Morrison_.—United States, _H. De Soto_, Piazza
Castelnuovo 44.—=Lloyd’s Agent=, _E. G. Orr_, Piazza Marina.

=English Church.= _Holy Cross_ (‘Anglicana’; Pl. E, 3, 4), Via
Stabile; services every Sun. at 11 a.m. and 7 p.m. in winter.

ONE DAY AND A HALF is the minimum time for a glance at the sights.
1st. In the forenoon, _Cappella Palatina_ (p. 149), _San Giovanni
degli Eremiti_ (p. 150); _Cathedral_ (p. 149), _Martorana_ (p. 150),
_Museum_ (p. 150); in the afternoon (best in the early morning in
summer), _Monte Pellegrino_ (p. 151); in summer, towards evening,
_Villa Giulia_ and the _Marina_ (p. 151).—2nd. In the forenoon,
_Monreale_ (p. 152).

_Palermo_, the capital of Sicily, with 250,000 inhab., the seat of an archbishop and a university, lies on the beautiful bay named after it, in the midst of the _Conca d’Oro_, a fertile plain artificially watered, and yielding oranges, lemons, mandarins, and other fruits in profusion. Palermo is also the chief seaport in the island, whence fruit, wine, sumach, and the sulphur of S. Sicily (79% of the world’s consumption) are largely exported.

The city, the _Panormus_ of antiquity, began its career as a Phœnician colony; it next became the capital of the island under the Carthaginian domination, but was conquered by the Romans in 254 B. C. Next came the Ostrogoths and the Byzantines, who were succeeded by the Aglabides and Fatimites (p. 323), who again made the town the capital of the island under the name of _Balerm_, and opened up Sicily to Moorish culture. When Palermo became the residence of its Norman conquerors (1072–1194) they erected castles and churches, partly employing Arabian architects and artificers, whose work shows a charming blend of Byzantine, Arabian, and Oriental features. Later, as the favourite seat of the Hohenstaufen (1194–1266), Palermo attained the zenith of its glory. The old town, however, owes its architectural character to the Spanish viceroys (16–17th cent.), who chose it as their residence in spite of the protests of Messina. Since the union of Sicily with the kingdom of Italy (1860) there has been a great revival of building enterprise, with the result that broad streets and villa-suburbs have sprung up, particularly on the N. side of the old town.

From the Santa Lucia Pier (Pl. G, 4, 5) we enter the old town by the Via Francesco Crispi (Pl. F, E, 4; tramway No. 1, see p. 147), leading to the old Porta San Giorgio (Pl. E, 4). The Via Cavour diverges here to the right to the old Porta Maqueda (p. 151); we turn to the left, cross the Piazza del Castello (Pl. D, 5), pass the old Fort Castellammare, and skirt the Cala (p. 147), or old harbour, a little beyond which is the—

PIAZZA MARINA (Pl. C, 5), where the beautiful *_Giardino Garibaldi_ recalls the tropics with its luxuriant vegetation.

A little to the N.E. of the Giardino is the Porta Felice (Pl. C, 5, 6; p. 151), from which to the Porta Nuova (Pl. B, 1; p. 150), over 1 M. distant, runs the CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE, intersecting the whole of the old town. This long street owes its present form to Don Pedro de Toledo (p. 138), but having been for centuries the route from the harbour to the castle, it has retained its old popular name of _Cássaro_ (from the Arabic _kasr_, castle).

At the _Quattro Canti_ (Pl. C, 3), the old business centre of the city, the Corso is crossed by the VIA MAQUEDA (Pl. A-D, 4, 3; p. 151), begun by the viceroy Marqués de Villena in 1609, and now a second important artery of the old town.

The Corso leads to the Piazza del Duomo, on the N. side of which rises the—

*=Cathedral= (Pl. C, 2), dedicated to the _Assunta_, on the site of an older church which the Moors had converted into a mosque. The original Romanesque building, erected by Archbishop Walter of the Mill (Gualterio Offamilio) after 1185, has been entirely transformed in the course of centuries, with the exception of the lower part of the clock-tower and the external decoration of the choir niche. The handsome W. façade with the two towers which date from 1300–59, the incongruous dome, and the modernized internal decorations are the work of the Florentine _Fern. Fuga_ (1781–1801). The right aisle, on the left of the S. portal, contains the *Monuments of Norman and Hohenstaufen monarchs.

At the S.W. end of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, beyond the Piazza della Vittoria (Pl. B, 2), on a slight eminence, which from the earliest times has been the site of the castle, rises the—

=Palazzo Reale= (Pl. B, 1), which still bears traces of its original fortified character, although the foundation walls alone are Arabian, and the central tower with the pointed arch (Santa Ninfa, p. 150) is the only relic of the Norman part of the building.

The last door on the left, opposite the monument of Philip V., leads into the palace-yard (sticks and umbrellas are left with the porter; guide ½ fr., but quite unnecessary). We ascend the stairs to the left, on the first floor turn to the right, and pass through the arcaded passage to the—

**_Cappella Palatina_, a perfect gem of mediæval art, built by king Roger II. in 1132–40 in the Arabic-Norman style (adm. daily 7 to 10.30 free; later, week-days till 4, Sun. till 3, fee; best light in the morning). In the interior the chapel is a basilica with two aisles; including the choir and apse it is 36 yds. long and 14 yds. in breadth. The Arabian pointed arches are borne by ten antique columns; the central dome, 59 ft. high, is adorned with Greek and Latin inscriptions. The beautiful Arabian timber ceiling in the nave, with its Cufic (early Arabic) inscription, is joined to the walls by stalactite vaulting. All the walls are incrusted with glass-mosaics on a gold ground.

The palace-tower, _Santa Ninfa_, now an observatory, is famed for the delightful panorama it affords (fee ½–1 fr.; not always accessible). The top of the _Porta Nuova_ (Pl. B, 1), close by, also overlooks the city and the Conca d’Oro.

Descending the steps by the monument of Philip V., we now follow the Via del Bastione a Porta di Castro and the Via dei Benedettini to the ruined church of *_San Giovanni degli Eremiti_ (Pl. A, B, 1, 2; adm. by the garden-gate; fee 25 c.). The interior is in the form of a so-called Egyptian cross (p. 376), with three apses. The nave is divided into two squares by a pointed arch. Quite an Oriental effect is produced by the five unadorned domes, which are best viewed from the pretty cloisters (now a garden). Adjoining the S. side of the church is a dilapidated little mosque.

We now return to the Quattro Canti (p. 149) and turn to the right into the Via Maqueda. Here, immediately on the right, is the _University_ (Pl. C, 3); on the left is the _Palazzo di Città_ or _Municipio_. Just beyond the latter is the small Piazza Bellini, whence steps ascend to two old Norman churches (adm. daily 9–4, 1 fr.; Sun. free). The smaller, _San Cataldo_, of 1161, is crowned with Arabian pinnacles. Still more curious is the larger church—

*_La Martorana_ (Pl. B, C, 4), named after its founder, the Greek admiral of Roger I. (1143), and known also as Santa Maria dell’ Ammiraglio, a Byzantine edifice with Norman additions, now suitably restored. The two lower stories of the clock-tower are part of the original church.

From the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, a little to the E. of the Quattro Canti, runs the new Via Roma (Pl. C, D, 4) to the N.N.W. to the Piazza San Domenico. On the E. side of this piazza rises the large church of _San Domenico_ (Pl. D, 4), containing monuments to many eminent Sicilians.—Behind the church, in the Via Bambinai, is the _Oratorio del Santissimo Rosario_ (keys at No. 16, adjacent), containing a fine Madonna del Rosario by A. van Dyck.

From the Piazza San Domenico the Via Monteleone leads to the N.W. to the Piazza dell’ Olivella, where an old monastery on the right contains the—

=Museo Nazionale= (Pl. D, 3; week-days 10–3, 1 fr.; Sun. 11–3, free, but not fully shown; closed on high festivals, on the last three days of the Carnival, and in Holy Week).

GROUND FLOOR. From the Primo Cortile, containing mediæval and
Renaissance portals, sculptures, and inscriptions, we enter the
Secondo Cortile (once the cloisters), where ancient sculptures and
inscriptions are exhibited, on the left Sicilian, on the right those
of foreign or uncertain origin.

From the vestibule, beyond the cloisters, we pass through a small
room, containing two Phœnician sarcophagi found near Palermo, to the
Sala di Panormo, with mosaics and inscriptions from Panormus, and
opposite to it the Sala del Fauno, so named from the fine satyr in the
style of Praxiteles which it contains.

The adjoining Sala di Selinunte contains the celebrated *Metopes of
Selinus (p. 154). On the left, between parts of the ponderous
entablature of the oldest temple, are three rude and primitive metopes
of the beginning of the 6th cent. B. C. (quadriga, beheading of
Medusa, Hercules and the Cercopes); then the lower halves of two
metopes, dating from about the middle of the 6th cent. (battle of the
gods and the giants); on the back-wall four metopes of the early 5th
cent., a period just before the prime of Greek art (Hercules slaying
the queen of the Amazons, Hera unveiling herself before Zeus, Actæon
torn to pieces by the dogs of Artemis, Athene slaying a giant).

The stairs in the forecourt ascend to the—

FIRST FLOOR. The steps to the left lead to the Sala Arăba, which
contains Arabian and Arab-Norman antiquities found in Sicily
(door-frame from the Martorana monastery, earthenware vase from
Mazzara) and early Arabian objects from Cairo. The Corridoio di
Ponente contains painted female figures (4th–3rd cent. B. C.), similar
to the terracottas of Tanagra. Beyond the cloisters is the room of the
ancient bronzes, among which we note a fountain-group of Hercules and
the Cerynæan hind, from Pompeii, and a ram marvellously lifelike. Next
come two rooms on the left with Greek vases. From the corridor on the
opposite side we enter the Gabinetto di Numismatica, an admirable
collection of the ancient coins of Sicily and of antique trinkets. The
last room contains gorgeous church vestments.

On the SECOND FLOOR is the Gallery of Pictures, chiefly by Sicilian
masters (_Pietro Novelli_ and others); a small winged altar-piece by
_Jan Mabuse_ (1501?), a gem of Netherlandish art, should, however, be
noted.

From the Museum the Via della Bara leads to the W. to the PIAZZA GIUSEPPE VERDI (Pl. D, 3), in which rises the _Teatro Massimo_ or _Vittorio Emanuele_, the largest in Italy.—At the N. end of the Via Maqueda (p. 149) is the old Porta Maqueda (Pl. D, E, 3), whence the Via Ruggiero Settimo leads into the broad—

VIA DELLA LIBERTÀ (Pl. F, G, 3, 2), a fashionable evening promenade, ending at the pretty _Giardino Inglese_ (Pl. G, H, 2).

The MARINA, officially named _Foro Umberto Primo_ (Pl. C, B, 6), which begins at the _Porta Felice_ (Pl. C, 5, 6; p. 149), near the harbour, affords a superb walk and is a favourite resort on summer evenings after 6 (music at 9).

At the S. end of the Marina lies the *=Villa Giulia= or _Flora_ (Pl. A, B, 6), one of the most beautiful public gardens in Italy, where the blossoming trees diffuse their fragrance in spring far around. It is adjoined on the W. by the *_Botanic Garden_ (Pl. A, B, 6; gardener 25–50 c.), almost vying with the famous Jardin d’Essai at Algiers (p. 232).

A visit to *=Monte Pellegrino= (1968 ft.), the ancient _Heirkte_, a bare limestone hill to the N. of Palermo, should not be omitted in clear weather. (Tramway No. 4 to _Falde_, near the S. foot of the hill, see p. 147; donkey, ordered in the town beforehand, with attendant, 4 fr.)

The zigzag path, visible from the town, ascends in about 1½ hr. from the Punta di Bersaglio, 5 min. to the N. of Falde, to the _Grotto of St. Rosalia_ (d. about 1170), which has been well described by Goethe. Near it are a cottage, where bread and wine may be obtained (bargaining advisable), and the restaurant _Argos-Eden_ (open only on Sun.).

A steep footpath ascends thence in ½ hr. to the _Telégrafo_, the signal-station on the summit, where we enjoy a *View of the beautiful basin of Palermo, of the indented N. coast of Sicily, and of the Lipari Islands (p. 146). To the E., beyond the Madoníe (p. 146) and the distant Nebrodian Mts., towers Mt. Ætna.

MONREALE (tramway No. 9 and carr., see pp. 147, 148) is reached from the Porta Nuova (Pl. B, 1; p. 150) by the Corso Calatafími. Beyond (3 M.) _La Rocca_ the road ascends to the (¾ hr.) top of the ‘royal hill’ (1148 ft.). The town of =Monreale= (Restaur. Savoy, Eden; pop. 24,000) owes its origin to a Benedictine abbey, founded by William II. (1174), and to the famous cathedral (1174–89) built here as the seat of the second archbishopric in the island.

The **_Cathedral_ is a Norman Romanesque basilica consisting of nave, aisles, and three apses, 335 ft. long and 131 ft. wide. Externally the choir end of the church, with its Arabian pointed arches and mosaic decoration, is particularly fine. The magnificent main portal, flanked in northern style with two square towers, has two admirable bronze doors by ‘Bonannus Civis Pisanus’ (1186). The doors of the side-portal are by Barisano. The pointed arches of the nave rest on granite columns, and all the walls are lavishly decorated with glass mosaics. The roof (172 steps; verger, who shows the chapels also, 50–75 c.) commands a splendid view.

Of the Benedictine monastery nothing is now left except the *_Cloisters_, the pointed arches of which are adorned with mosaics and borne by 216 columns in pairs, remarkable for the variety of their capitals and for the inlaid ornamentation of their shafts (date ca. 1200). Entrance (1 fr.) from the Piazza del Duomo by the side-door to the left. The custodian shows also the garden of the monastery, where we have a charming view of Palermo.

See also _Baedeker’s Southern Italy_.

* * * * *

Pursuing our VOYAGE TO TUNIS we soon obtain a fine view of the bold limestone rocks of _Monte Pellegrino_ (p. 151). We next pass the beautiful _Bay of Mondello_ and the _Cape Gallo_ and steer to the W., away from the Sicilian coast and the _Gulf of Castellammare_. That spacious gulf is bounded on the E. by the _Punta di Raisi_, a spur of _Monte Orso_ (2900 ft.), and on the W. by the mountains of _San Vito_ (_Monte Sparagio_ and others).

Beyond _Cape San Vito_ (lighthouse) appear to the _S.W. Monte San Giuliano_ (see below) and the _Ægadean Islands_. The French steamers bound for Tunis direct pass near these islands; first _Lévanzo_ (951 ft.; ancient _Phorbantia_), beyond which to the S. is _Favignana_ (1070 ft.; ancient _Ægusa_), the largest of the group; then _Marittimo_ (ancient _Hiera_), with _Monte Falcone_ (2245 ft.).

The Italian steamer coming from Naples rounds _Monte San Giuliano_ (2464 ft.), a solitary mass of Jurassic rock, the ancient _Eryx_, famed for its temple of Venus Erycina, and highly revered by all the Mediterranean peoples, and next calls at—

=Trápani= (Grand-Hôtel, on the quay; landing or embarkation, without baggage, 60 c.; Brit. vice-consul, G. Marino), the ancient _Drepana_ (from _drepanon_, a sickle), so called from the form of the peninsula. Down to the first Punic war this was merely the port of the ancient _Eryx_, but it is now a thriving commercial place (pop. 38,000). The chief export is the sea-salt yielded by the extensive evaporation grounds on the W. coast, towards Marsala. The coral-fishery also is an important industry.

The Naples steamer next passes through the strait between the islands of _Levanzo_ and _Favignana_ (see above) and the flat W. coast of Sicily, and then steers to the S.W. through the _Straits of Pantelleria_ (p. 396), between Favignana and the _Isola Grande_, towards _Cape Bon_ (Arabic _Râs Addar_, the Roman _Promontorium Mercurii_), the E. boundary of the _Bay of Tunis_ (p. 129). High up on this bold headland stands a lighthouse (410 ft.), visible for 32 M. around, one of the most important landmarks for mariners between Gibraltar and Egypt. Beyond the cape rises _Jebel Abiod_ (1273 ft.), with its semaphore. The islands to the W. are _Zembretta_ and _Zembra_ or _Jamur_ (1420 ft.; the ancient _Ægimurus_).

The great quarries near _El-Aouaria_ (the ancient _Aquilaria_), between Cape Bon and the _Râs el-Ahmar_ (318 ft.) yielded the Phœnicians the material for building Carthage. We next pass the _Anse de Thonaire_, with its important tunny-fishery (Ital. _tonnara_), and the _Râs al-Fortas_.

The steamers usually enter the _Inner Bay of Tunis_ and _Lake Bahira_ in the early morning. _Tunis_, see p. 329.

The ITALIAN CARGO-STEAMERS (p. 146) first touch at _Castellammare del
Golfo_, then proceed to _Trapani_ (see above), where they spend the
night. They next pass _Favignana_ (see above), _Isola Grande_, the
lagoon of _Lo Stagnone_, and _Capo Boeo_ or _Lilibeo_, the W.
extremity of Sicily.

=Marsála= (Albergo Centrale; Leone; Stella d’Italia; landing or
embarkation 60 c.; with heavy baggage 1½ fr.; Brit. vice-consul, Chas.
F. Gray; pop. 58,000) is a busy trading town, well known for its fiery
wines. It occupies the site of _Lilybaeum_, the chief fortress of
Carthage in Sicily. The modern name is of Moorish origin (_Marsa-Ali_,
harbour of Ali).

Skirting the monotonous S.W. coast of Sicily the vessel next calls at
=Mazzara del Vallo= (Alb. Centrale; Alb. Stella; Brit. vice-consul, O.
Favara), founded as _Mazara_ by the Greeks of Selinus, but destroyed
along with its mother-city by the Carthaginians in 409 B. C.

Beyond Mazzara we pass the _Punta di Granítola_, the _Râs el-Belât_ of
the Moors, who in 827 began their victorious progress through the
island, and the broad bay of _Selinunte_ (_Selinus_), where the
grandest ruined temples in Europe are situated. Beyond _Cape San
Marco_ we come to—

=Sciacca= (Nuova Italia; pop. 25,000), a seaport situated on a steep
hill, 262 ft. above the sea, with its mouldering castles of mediæval
nobility. The name was originally Arabic, _Shâkkah_. In ancient times
it was called _Thermae Selinuntiae_, from the already famous
vapour-baths in the caverns at the foot of _Monte San Calógero_ (1272
ft.) and the hot salt-springs (132° Fahr.).

The steamer next steers to the W.S.W. through the _Straits of
Pantelleria_ (p. 396), at a little distance from the shallows where
the volcanic _Isola Ferdinandea_, 4–5 M. in circumference, rose from
the sea with a crater, on 18th July, 1831, but disappeared on 12th
Jan., 1832.

On the margin of the shallower water, in a great submarine basin 3900
ft. deep, lies the island of =Pantelleria=, also belonging to Italy.
Its chief town, off which the steamer anchors for some hours, is on
the N.W. side. This volcanic island, 32 sq. M. in area, culminates in
an extinct crater 2743 ft. in height, while numerous ‘fumaroli’, or
smoking and steaming fissures, and hot mineral springs testify to a
continuous volcanic activity. This was further indicated by a
submarine eruption which occurred in 1891, within 3 M. of the island
to the N.W.

The steamer afterwards rounds _Cape Bon_ (p. 153) and follows the same
course to Tunis as the larger passenger steamers.

27. From Naples to Syracuse (_Malta_, _Tunis_, _Tripoli_) viâ Messina
and Catania.

FROM NAPLES TO MESSINA (204 M.). =1.= Steamers of the _Ferrovie dello
Stato_ (Line D), leave Naples Sun. evening, arr. at Messina Mon.
morning (at Reggio at noon; returning from Reggio same afternoon and
from Messina same evening); fares 22 fr. 85, 14 fr. 70 c.—=2.=
_Società Nazionale_: =a.= Line XX (Linea Circolare, see pp. 134, 142),
dep. from Naples Sat. aft., arr. at Messina Sun. morning (returning
from Messina Wed. aft.); =b.= Line V (Genoa-Alexandria; p. 134), dep.
from Naples Thurs. aft., arr. at Messina Frid. morning (returning from
Messina Sun. evening); fares by these two lines 22 fr. 85, 14 fr. 70
c.; c. Lines X & XI, fortnightly from Naples viâ Palermo (comp. p.
146) to Messina (fares 50 fr. 10, 33 fr. 40 c.).

FROM NAPLES TO CATANIA (258 M.), the Linea Circolare (see below); also
the _North German Lloyd_ (Mediterranean-Levant; RR. 23, 24) every
second Mon. (from Catania Tues.) in 16 hrs.; fare 36 or 24 marks.

FROM MESSINA TO SYRACUSE (93 M.), only the Linea Circolare, dep. from
Messina Sun. morning, arr. at Reggio same morning, at Catania Sun.
afternoon, at Syracuse Mon. evening (returning from Syracuse Tues.
forenoon, from Catania Tues. midnight, and leaving Messina for Naples
on Wed. aft.). This steamer may be overtaken at Syracuse if we go by
train from Messina to Syracuse (comp. p. 158), in which case there
will be time to spend a night at Taormina and see the sunset and
sunrise. At Syracuse a drive through the old town should not be
omitted (comp. p. 162).

_Naples_, see p. 135. Steering across the bay towards the _Peninsula of Sorrento_, we enjoy a delightful retrospect of _Mt. Vesuvius_ and the hills around Naples. Farther on we admire the bold rocky N. coast of the island of _Capri_.

After 1¼ hr. we pass through the _Bocca Piccola_, a strait 3 M. in breadth, between the huge cliffs of _Lo Capo_, the N.E. point of Capri, and the _Punta di Campanella_ (154 ft.; lighthouse), the extremity of the peninsula of Sorrento.

The steamboat now proceeds to the S.S.E. towards the straits of Messina. We have a fine view, in passing, of the _Punta Tragara_, the S.E. headland of Capri, with the cliffs of the _Faraglioni_, and of the precipitous _Monte Soláro_ (1920 ft.), the highest hill in the island. On our left lies the broad _Gulf of Salerno_, with the bays of _Positano_ and _Amalfi_ on the S. side of the peninsula of Sorrento. Conspicuous among the Neapolitan Apennines are the spurs of _Monte Stella_ (3708 ft.) with the _Punta Licosa_, and of _Monte Bulgheria_ (4016 ft.) with _Cape Palinuro_ (lighthouse).

At length, far off the coast of _Calabria_, we sight to the S. the volcanic _Lipari_ or _Æolian Islands_, the ancient _Liparaeae_ or _Æoliae_. We pass close to _Strómboli_, the _Strongyle_ of the Greeks, which the ancients regarded as the seat of Æolus, god of the winds. This island culminates in a peak (3038 ft.) with a crater on its N. side, often shrouded in smoke, which is one of the few constantly active volcanoes in Europe. To the S.W. we descry in clear weather _Panária_ (1381 ft.), with its archipelago of smaller islands; _Lípari_, the largest of the group with _Monte Sant’Angelo_ (1955 ft.); and _Vulcano_ with its ever smoking crater (1638 ft.).

Off _Cape Vaticano_ (lighthouse), a spur of the Calabrian coast-hills between the bays of _Sant’Eufemia_ and _Gioia_, we sight the N. coast of Sicily, with the _Monti Peloritani_, the _Myconius Mons_ or _Mons Neptuni_ of the Romans, overtopped by _Mt. Ætna_ (p. 159). On the Calabrian coast, near the strait which was the chief scene of the earthquake of 1908 (p. 156), appear the ruins of the little town of _Palmi_, halfway up _Monte Elia_ (1900 ft.; a famous point of view), and those of _Bagnara_ and of _Scilla_ with its castle-rock.

The *Voyage through the _Straits of Messina_ (Faro or Stretto di Messina), the _Fretum Siculum_ of antiquity, is one of the most beautiful in the Mediterranean. Both banks are luxuriantly fertile, shaded with palms, and yielding oranges, pomegranates, and prickly pears. The Calabrian coast, thickly studded with villages, partly in ruins, culminates in _Montalto_ (5424 ft.), the highest peak of the wooded _Aspromonte_, the ancient _Sila_, while we survey the Sicilian coast as far as _Mt. Ætna_. The narrowest part of the straits, 2 M., is between the _Punta del Faro_ (p. 158) and the _Punta Pezzo_, where they are entered from the _Tyrrhenian Sea_; between Messina and Villa San Giovanni (p. 159) they are 4½ M., and between _Capo di Scaletta_ (p. 158) and the _Punta di Péllaro_ (p. 159) in the _Ionian Sea_ 8¾ M. wide. The currents which sweep past the headland of Scilla (see above) and cause strong eddies near the harbour of Messina, sometimes augmented by gales, gave rise at a very early period to the legend of Scylla and Charybdis, and Homer has described Scylla as a roaring, all-devouring sea-monster.

We pass the lighthouses of the Punta del Faro and the Punta di Pezzo. Nearing the _Harbour of Messina_, in a bay formed by a sickle-shaped peninsula, we survey the ruins of the city on the green slopes of the Monti Peloritani (p. 155), whose fissured peaks tower above the sea of houses, once so picturesque.

The central point of the earthquake of Messina (28th Dec., 1908), caused by dislocation or subsidence, was the strait and the W. slope of Aspromonte (p. 155). The first terrific shock at 5 a.m. was followed almost immediately by a great tidal wave caused by a submarine earthquake, and aggravating the calamity in the lower parts of the coast towns and villages. The effects of the earthquake were disastrous also in Calabria as far to the N. as Cosenza, and in Sicily as far to the S. as Pachino (near Cape Passero; p. 411). At Messina the sea-wave rose to a height of 8–9 ft., at Reggio 11½ ft., and at Giardini and Riposto 19½–20 ft. The area of the seismic disturbance extended to the N.E. to Pizzo on the bay of Sant’Eufemia (p. 155), to the E. to the mouth of the Amendolea, near Cape Spartivento and the small town of Ferruzzano, the scene of the earthquake of 1907, and to the S. to Riposto (p. 158). It was estimated that 96,000 persons lost their lives. The value of the buildings destroyed amounted to about 6,500,000_l._

* * * * *

=Messina.=—ARRIVAL. Landing or embarkation 1 fr., or without baggage
50 c., but bargain advisable. Passengers are landed at the quay
(Approdo Ferry-boats) adjoining the old Stazione Porto, where, in
connection with the express from Naples (steam-ferry from Villa San
Giovanni), express trains to Catania and Palermo are in waiting.

HOTELS (inquiries should be made as to prices), all with the exception
of the Excelsior built of wood and very fair. _Gr.-Hôt. Regina Elena_,
Viale Roosevelt, to the E. of Viale San Martino, in an open situation
commanding fine views, to be opened in 1911; _Grand-Hôtel_, R. 4½–5,
B. 1¼ fr.; _Excelsior_, R. 4–10, B. 1½ fr.; _Belvedere_, R. 2½–3½ fr.,
these three in the Viale San Martino; _Venezia_, Piazza Cavallotti.

CAB per drive 60 (with luggage 80) c., at night 1 fr.; by time, 2 fr.
for the first hour, and 1 fr. 50 c. for each addit. hour; to the Punta
del Faro 6–7 fr.

POST OFFICE, Viale San Martino.—TELEGRAPH OFFICE in the piazza of the
chief station.

TOURIST AGENCY. _Mrs. Pearce_, Via Primo Settembre, opposite the
railway-station.

BRITISH VICE-CONSUL, _J. B. Heynes_.

The town of _Messina_ was like Reggio completely destroyed by the earthquake of 1908 (comp. above) and has now only 80,000 inhab. as against 110,000 in 1908. Notwithstanding this catastrophe it was finally decided in autumn 1909 to rebuild the town on its former site. Its harbour, one of the best in the Mediterranean, the third in importance in Sicily, sustained no damage and has even now a very brisk trade (1908: 3589 vessels of 2,598,647 tons burden; 1910: 3148 vessels of 2,050,733 tons burden). The great charm of Messina consists in the beauty of its environs and the views they afford, particularly of the Calabrian coast by evening light.

Originally named _Zancle_ (_i.e._ sickle), Messina was one of the
earliest of the Greek colonies in Sicily, having been founded about
730 B.C. Early in the 5th cent. it was occupied by new colonists from
the Messenian Reggio (p. 159) and called _Messana_. From the earliest
times the Messenians took a leading part in almost all the political
agitations in the island. In 228 the Mamertines, disbanded mercenaries
of Agathocles (p. 163), treacherously seized the town and soon
afterwards invoked the aid of the Romans against Hannibal, thus
directly giving rise to the first Punic war. For a time Messina
enjoyed the special favour of the Romans, and even of Verres, the
notorious proconsul, but when it became the naval base of Pompey, in
36 B.C., it was plundered by the soldiers of Octavian. From the period
of the Crusades, by which Sicily was partly affected, date the
privileges which made Messina a kind of free city and the seat of the
Sicilian opposition to foreign domination. The failure of its war
against Spain (1672–8), notwithstanding the help of French troops sent
by Louis XIV. and two naval victories won by Admiral Duquesne over the
Spanish-Dutch fleet under De Ruyter (1676), caused the downfall of the
city. Terrible pestilences (the plague in 1740 and cholera in 1854),
severe earthquakes (in 1783 and 1894), and the bombardment of the town
by the Neapolitan fleet (in 1818) had already seriously injured
Messina prior to its recent appalling calamity.

The ruins extend along the shore to the N., from the ‘sickle’ of the harbour and the citadel, to the _Giardino a Mare_, under whose plane-trees is a _Camp_ for the destitute. The _Citadel_ itself, with its broad moats and its bastions, is still standing.

On the Marina or Corso Vittorio Emanuele (formerly called also _La Palazzata_) are still seen several palatial façades, interrupted by archways and passages leading to the parallel Via Garibaldi. These are mostly relics of a uniform row of palaces, erected after the earthquake of 1783. Opposite the ruined Palazzo Municipale rises the _Neptune Fountain_, by Montorsoli, a pupil of Michael Angelo (1557), with a colossal statue of Neptune between Scylla and Charybdis.

Beyond the Via Garibaldi lies the Piazza del Duomo, with the almost intact _Orion Fountain_ by Montorsoli (1547–51), a point which may be reached direct from the Dogana by the Via Primo Settembre. The _Cathedral_ (la Matrice), founded by the Normans in 1098, is now, with the exception of the choir niche, a mass of ruins. The short Via Università degli Studi led to the S.E. from this piazza to the _University_, now also destroyed.

A few paces to the S. of the University, in the coast-plain called the _Mosella_, between the _Torrente Portalegni_ and the _Torrente Zaera_, and beyond the ruins of the new quarters of the town, lies the main _Camp_ of wooden barracks for the homeless, flanking the Viale San Martino.

A good survey of the ruins, as well as a superb view of the straits,
is obtained from the old =Forte Castellaccio=, which, along with the
modern forts, the barracks of the mountain-artillery, and the
powder-magazine, has escaped destruction. The way to it (35–40 min.)
is up the Torrente Portalegni close to ruined houses; we then skirt
the Botanic Garden, cross the Piazza Venti Settembre occupied by
barracks, and ascend straight on the steep Via Castellaccio.

The beautiful EXCURSION TO THE PUNTA DEL FARO (cab, see p. 156; bargain advisable) affords a good survey of the devastated environs. The road leads from the Giardino a Mare (p. 157) and the camp called _Villaggio Regina Elena_, along the foot of the hills, past luxuriant orchards, and through the ruined fishing-villages of _Salvatore dei Greci_, _Paradiso_, and _Pace_; it then skirts two lagoons, the _Pantano Grande_, or _Lago di Ganzirri_, below the ruins of _Faro Superiore_, a village famed for its wine, and the _Pantano Piccolo_. On the _Punta del Faro_ or _Capo Peloro_ (once _Promontorium Pelorum_), the N.E. point of Sicily, are the ruins of the fishing-village of _Faro_ or _Torre del Faro_, and near it the quite intact =Lighthouse= (200 steps; keeper 50 c.), which commands a splendid *View of the Lipari Islands and the Calabrian coast as far as Cape Vaticano (comp. p. 155).

FROM MESSINA TO SYRACUSE, 115 M., railway in 6¼–7 hrs.; fares 22 fr.
60, 15 fr. 85, 10 fr. 25 c. (journey may be broken once; to
_Giardini-Taormina_, 30½ M., in 1½–2 hrs.). The quick trains start
from Messina harbour (comp. p. 156); the morning train, which runs to
Syracuse harbour, has a dining-car (déj. 2½ fr.). The train skirts the
coast, affording fine views; it crosses the stony channels of several
_torrenti_ or _flumare_, which are generally dry, and pierces a number
of headlands by means of tunnels.

7½ M. _Galati_; 12 M. _Scaletta Zanclea_, with a picturesque castle,
not far from the _Capo di Scaletta_; 15½ M. _Alì_, with sulphur-baths.
Beyond the (23 M.) beautiful cape of _Sant’ Alessio_, with a deserted
castle, we sight the headland of Taormina.

30½ M. _Giardini-Taormina_. The village of Giardini lies in a small
bay, in a malarious region, 1¼ M. beyond the _Capo di Taormina_.
Taormina is reached by road (3 M.), by a bridle-path, or by a steep
footpath. (Diligence 1 fr.; down, 50 c.; carr. according to number of
party, 2–5 fr.; heavy luggage had better be left at the station.)

=Taormina= (673 ft.; San Domenico Palace Hotel, Hotel Castello a Mare,
Timeo, International, Villa San Pancrazio, Metropole, all often
crowded from 15th Jan. to April and closed in summer; plainer, San
Giorgio, Victoria, Naumachia, etc.; Brit. vice-cons., Dr. S.
Cacciola-Cartella; pop. 4000), the ancient _Tauromenium_, a highly
picturesque little town, lies on the S.E. spurs of _Monte Venere_
(2900 ft.), and is overlooked by a ruined _Castle_ (1300 ft.) and by
the village of _Mola_ (2083 ft.). Its chief attraction is the
*_Ancient Theatre_, at the E. end of the town, which is open daily
till dusk. Originally Greek it was entirely remodelled in the Roman
period. The spectators’ area (_cavea_), almost wholly hewn in the
rock, is 357 ft. in diameter, and the _orchestra_ (seats for persons
of distinction) 115 ft.; the stage (_pulpitum_) is particularly well
preserved. The *View from the site of the theatre is one of the most
beautiful in Italy, especially in the morning, when the sun rises
above Calabria or, in winter, from the sea, imparting a rosy hue to
the snowy peak of Mt. Ætna (p. 159), and gilding the rocky heights
beyond the theatre.

Between Taormina and Catania the train crosses a number of the
lava-streams descending from Mt. Ætna. On the northmost of these, near
_Schisò_, between the bay of Giardini and the mouth of the _Alcántara_
(Arabic al-kántara, the bridge), lay Naxos, founded in 735 B. C., the
oldest Greek colony in Sicily.

41 M. _Giarre-Riposto_, the station for the country-town of _Giarre_
and for the seaport of _Riposto_ which has a brisk trade in wine. It
is also the starting-point of the railway round the W. side of Mt.
Ætna (‘Ferrovia Circumetnéa’; 68½ M. in length).

51 M. _Acireale_ (525 ft.; Sicil. _Iaci_), a wealthy country-town
built on several lava-streams and much frequented as a bathing-place
on account of its mineral springs (sulphur, salt, and iodine).—Near
(55½ M.) _Aci Castello_ we perceive on the left in the sea seven
cliffs of columnar basalt, the _Scogli de’ Ciclopi_ or Islands of
Cyclops, the rocks which according to Greek myth the blinded
Polyphemus hurled after the crafty Ulysses.

59½ M. =Catania=, see p. 160.

Running inland the train enters the _Piana di Catania_, the plain of
the rivers _Simeto_ and _Gornalunga_, which is often flooded in
winter. This was the region of the _Laestrygonian Fields_ of
antiquity, extolled by Cicero as the ‘uberrima Siciliæ pars’, and
still the granary of the island. To the right, beyond the _Monti
Cartina_, in a malarious district lies the _Lago di Lentini_, the
largest lake in Sicily. On the left, beyond (77½ M.) _Lentini_, Greek
_Leontinoi_, is the swampy lagoon _Pantano di Carlentini_. We pass
numerous salt-works and snow-white pyramids of sea-salt.

94 M. _Augusta_ (the ancient _Xiphonia_), a seaport with 16,000
inhab., lies in a site similar to that of Syracuse, on the N. margin
of the _Bay of Megara_, which is bounded by the headlands of _Santa
Croce_ and _Santa Panagia_ (p. 162). 98½ M. _Mégara Iblea_, not far
from the site of the Greek colony of _Megara Hyblea_. On the left is
the _Penisola Magnisi_, the ancient _Thapsos_, on the N. side of which
lay the fleet of the Athenians during their expedition against
Syracuse (p. 163).

The train passes the small bay of _Trogilos_, where the fleet of
Marcellus once anchored (p. 163), and a tunny-fishery (tonnara), runs
through a cutting, and skirts the limestone plateau near Cape Santa
Panagia. To the left we have a fine view of the sea and the modern
town, and at length reach the (115 M.) harbour-station of _Syracuse_
(p. 162).

* * * * *

FROM MESSINA TO (8 M.) REGGIO, a delightful trip, especially by morning light, either by one of the steamers mentioned at p. 154 or by one of the ferry-boats (comp. p. 156). To the left, nearly opposite Messina, is the little town of _Villa San Giovanni_ (p. 155), now in ruins, as are also the villages of _Catona_, _Gallico_, _Archi_, and others farther to the S.

=Reggio= (Alb. Veneto-Trentino, a temporary hotel-restaurant), before the earthquake of 1908 a town of 35,000 inhab., called _Reggio Calabria_ to distinguish it from Reggio in the Emilia, lies at the W. base of the _Aspromonte_ (p. 155). The ancient _Rhegium_, originally a Eubœan colony, but occupied by new Messenian settlers in 723 B.C., has been destroyed eight times in war and twice by earthquakes (1783 and 1908). Its last disaster was most appalling in the upper quarters. Along the shore and in the piazzas the survivors are now living in huts. The _Strada Reggio Campi_ above the town offers a beautiful view especially towards evening.

On the VOYAGE TO CATANIA we enjoy a splendid view of the whole of the straits as far as the _Punta del Faro_ (p. 158), and later of the coast of Calabria from the _Punta di Pellaro_ (p. 155) to the _Capo dell’ Armi_. On the Sicilian coast rise the _Monti Peloritani_ (p. 155) and the majestic _Mt. Ætna_ (10,958 ft.; Ital. _Etna_), the highest volcano in Europe, with its countless minor craters and the great _Valle del Bove_, the remains of the enormous oldest crater, 3 M. broad, bounded by rocky slopes of 1900–3900 ft. in height. The view is specially striking beyond _Taormina_ (p. 158), and we obtain also a good idea of the volume and the direction of the old lava-streams. After sixteen years’ quiescence fresh flows of lava were emitted in the Valle del Bove in 1908 and from the volcano’s S. slope in 1910.

Beyond _Acireale_ (p. 158) and _Cape Molini_, the N. limit of the broad _Bay of Catania_, we sight the _Scogli de’ Ciclopi_ (p. 159). As we enter the harbour of _Catania_ we have a fine view of the S. side of Ætna.

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