Chapter VI: Algeria (5)

From the Colonne Voirol we may now walk through the _Bois de Boulogne_ (p. 230), or follow the road to the S.E. in the valley of the _Oued Knis_, past the sanatorium of Dr. Verhaeren and the _Villa des Grottes_ (curious rock sculptures, among others the expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise), to (1 M.) the poor agricultural village of =Birmandreis= (354 ft.; Café-Restaur. des Platanes). From Birmandreis we have the choice of two routes. We may walk through the _Ravin de la Femme Sauvage_ (to the N.E. and E.), as the cool and shady lower Oued Knis valley is popularly called, to (1¾ M.) the village of _Le Ruisseau_ (tramway No. 4, p. 219), ½ M. beyond the Jardin d’Essai (p. 232). Or we may take the road (to the S.E. and E.), through orchards and market-gardens, and across a fine open hill, to the (1¼ M.) poor village of _Vieux-Kouba_ and (½ M.) _Kouba_ (p. 233).

From the Rue Michelet the =Boulevard Bru= (Pl. A-C, 8, 9; p. 230; tramway No. 3, see p. 219) leads between villas, affording near the farther end a beautiful view of Algiers, to (¾ M.) the _Cimetière de Mustapha_ (Pl. C, 9), incorporating the _English Cemetery_. Here at the tramway-terminus the Boul. Bru joins the Chemin de Fontaine-Bleue, a road coming up from Mustapha-Inférieur (p. 232). We follow the latter road straight on to its junction with the Chemin Shakespeare or des Crêtes, beyond which, in the same direction, the Rue Laurent-Pichat brings us to the (¼ M.) _Villa Sesini_ (Pl. D, 9), superbly situated above Belcourt (p. 232). Straight on we follow the Rue de Béhagle, a narrow field-road diverging from the Rue Laurent-Pichat; this road after 5 min. leads to the left, through a small oak-copse and past the _Fort des Arcades_ (Pl. D, 9), to the verge of the plateau (*Bench with view) and then, taking the name of Chemin des Arcades, goes on to the hill-garden of the _Jardin d’Essai_ (see p. 232).

d. The S.E. Suburbs.

The only attractions here are the Mohammedan Cemetery at Belcourt
(near the Marabout station of tramway No. 4; p. 219) and the Jardin
d’Essai. It is best to go to the latter by the inner line, just
mentioned, and to return by No. 5, the outer line.

The suburbs of _Agha-Inférieur_, with its railway-station (p. 217) and the new Arrière-Port (p. 223), _Mustapha-Inférieur_, _Belcourt_, and _Le Hamma_, together with the adjacent little town of _Hussein-Dey_, are the industrial quarters of Algiers.

Along the coast, beyond Boul. Laferrière (p. 226), run the Rue Baudin (Pl. C, 5), in line with the Rue de Constantine (p. 226), and the RUE SADI-CARNOT (Pl. B-E, 5–8), over 2½ M. long, from which, at the N.E. angle of the _Champ de Manœuvres_ (Pl. C, 7; also a race-course), diverges the RUE DE LYON (Pl. B-E, 7–9), 2 M. in length, the route of the inner tramway-line (No. 4).

The unattractive Rue de Lyon leads to (about ¾ M.) the =Cimetière Musulman de Belcourt= (Pl. D, 9), the finest Mohammedan burial-ground in Algiers, containing a number of handsome monuments and the picturesque _Kubba_ of Sidi Abderrahmân Bu-Kobrin (d. 1793), a famous Algerian saint, a native of Great Kabylia. Adm., see p. 220. As a rule only the side-entrance in the Rue Colonel-Combes is open.

The so-called _Grotte de Cervantes_ (Pl. D, 9), with a bust and
memorial tablet of the famous Spanish author, who lived in captivity
at Algiers in 1575–80, is said to have been his hiding-place when
attempting to escape. Ascending a road from the end of the Rue Col.
Combes beyond the cemetery, we follow a (5 min.) path to the left, and
turning to the left again, somewhat downhill, we reach the (9 min.)
grotto.

The Rue de Lyon next leads through the suburb of _Le Hamma_ to the (½ M.) *=Jardin d’Essai= (Pl. E, 9; adm., see p. 220), or _Jardin du Hamma_, the botanic garden of Algiers and at the same time a nursery-garden and public promenade. Founded by government in 1832 and frequently extended, it became the property of the Compagnie Algérienne (p. 219) in 1878. In wealth of vegetation it vies with the botanic gardens of Palermo and Lisbon, which, however, have been more advantageously laid out. It consists of two sections: a hill-garden on the verge of the Sahel plateau and the main garden in the once marshy, but now extremely fertile coast-plain.

Opposite the S. ENTRANCE of the main garden, in the Rue de Lyon, is
the dilapidated Mauro-Turkish _Fontaine du Hamma_ (16th cent.). From
this point, near the small _Hôt.-Restaurant du Château Rouge_, the
Chemin des Arcades (p. 231) ascends to the =Hill Garden=, a wooded
park, with tall araucarias, huge eucalypti, and other trees.

Through the =Main Garden= a magnificent avenue of planes runs from the
chief entrance towards the sea. Halfway is a circular space with a
café. The W. half of the garden, to the left of the avenue, is
occupied by the less interesting nursery-garden.

The E. half of the garden is intersected by shady walks at right
angles to each other. Parallel with the main avenue are the narrower
dragon-tree and palm avenue and the magnolia and fig-tree avenue. The
chief cross-walks, parallel with the Rue de Lyon, are the date-palm,
the bamboo, and the dwarf-palm and rose avenues. From the S. entrance
we turn at once to the right into the date-palm avenue, where, from
the steps opposite the offices (‘administration’), we have a charming
view of the dragon-tree and palm avenue. Then, passing the magnolia
and fig-tree avenue, we go straight to the S. angle of the garden,
where we are struck with the profusion of tropical plants, outstanding
among which are the huge Ficus nitida with its exposed roots and a
group of yuccas (the rare Yucca draconis and other palm-lilies). A
little lower down, near the artificial island with its aquatic plants,
are a group of *Strelitzias and (beyond a tall Livistona australis) a
beautiful little palm-grove. We next follow the *Bamboo walk, and from
it turn to the right into the *Dragon-tree (p. 30) and palm avenue,
which leads towards the sea. Farther on, to the left, beyond the
dwarf-palm (Chamærops excelsa) and rose avenue, is the small
_Zoologie_ (adm., see p. 220), with a few specimens of Algerian
animals.

Opposite the N. ENTRANCE, in the Rue Sadi-Carnot, at the station of
the outer tramway-line, rises a group of date-palms, where the cafés
_Oasis des Palmiers_ and _Closerie des Palmiers_ are much frequented
by the citizens in the afternoon (déj. 2½, D. 3 fr.). Beyond the
railway line, from the shore near the sea-baths (p. 219; restaur.), we
obtain a delightful *View of Algiers. When the wind is to the N. or
N.W. the breakers here are grander than at the Rampe de l’Amirauté (p.
223).

The Rue Sadi-Carnot ends at the _Oued Knis_ (p. 231), on the outskirts of the small town of =Hussein-Dey= (Hôt. de la Gare; railway and tramway station; see pp. 217, 247), where the _Tobacco Factory_ has swallowed up the villa of the last deys of Algeria. The inhabitants (5700) are mostly Spaniards from the Balearic Islands (‘Mahonnais’), who grow early vegetables.

From Hussein-Dey to _Maison-Carrée_, see p. 247.

From the village of _Le Ruisseau_ (p. 231), at the end of the Rue de Lyon and at the mouth of the Ravin de la Femme Sauvage, a road ascends in windings to the (1¼ M.) village of =Kouba= (427 ft.; tramway No. 4, see p. 219), in a charming, well-wooded site. At the entrance to the village, on the site of a kubba, stands a _Church_ with a long flight of steps. The flat roof of the _Grand Séminaire_, a training-college for priests founded by Card. Lavigerie (p. 346; adm. by leave of the Superior), commands an extensive *Panorama of the Mitidja, the Atlas of Blida, and the Jurjura range.

From Kouba vià _Vieux-Kouba_ to _Birmandreis_, see p. 231.

e. El-Biar and Bouzaréah.

TRAMWAY (No. 6, p. 219) to El-Biar and Château-Neuf. From Château-Neuf
diligence several times daily to Chéraga and six times daily to
Bouzaréah (notices are posted in the Place du Gouvernement, at the
corner of Rue Bab-Azoun).

A favourite circular trip for one day (motor-cars and carriages, see
p. 218) embraces El-Biar, Château-Neuf, Chéraga, Staouéli-Trappe,
Sidi-Ferruch (p. 237), Guyotville (p. 237), Pointe-Pescade (p. 237),
St. Eugène (p. 236), and Algiers. A popular drive for half-a-day
includes Bouzaréah, Forêt de Baïnem, Bains Romains (p. 237), Pointe
Pescade, and Algiers.

(1). The road to EL-BIAR leads from the old town through the Kasba and the _Porte du Sahel_ (Pl. B, 3; comp. p. 228). Walkers may note two possible digressions. To the left, just outside the gate, a path descends in 10 min. to _Boul. Laferrière_ (p. 226). To the right, 2 min. farther, diverges the Chemin de Fontaine-Fraîche (Pl. A, 3, 4), the road to (10 min.) the charmingly situated village of _Birtraria_, whence one may either ascend to the S.W. in 20 min. to _El-Biar_ (see below), or walk to the N.E. through the pretty _Frais-Vallon_ and then descend the Avenue du Frais-Vallon (Pl. A, B, 2, 1), on the right bank of the _Oued M’Kacel_, to (½ hr.) the _Quartier Bab el-Oued_ (see below).

The highroad passes near the foot of the _Fort l’Empereur_ (Pl. A, 4; 689 ft.), almost hidden by trees. This was the site of the camp of Charles V. (p. 221), and on it was built the _Mulaï Hassan Fort_ (1545), which was partly blown up by its Turkish defenders when bombarded by the French in 1830. The road then winds up to the tramway station of _St. Raphaël_ (788 ft.), whence a charming road branches off to (1¼ M.) _Mustapha-Supérieur_ (to the left, and after 3 min. to the left again, joining the _Chemin du Télemly_ close to the Hôt. Continental).

The large village of =El-Biar= (784 ft.), 2 M. to the S.W. of the Porte du Sahel, and the village of _Château-Neuf_ (*Hôt.-Restaur. Mallard, pens. from 6 fr.; a favourite Sunday afternoon resort), lying on the monotonous plateau ½ M. beyond El-Biar, uninteresting in themselves, are the starting-points of the roads to the _Colonne Voirol_ and to _Bouzaréah_ (p. 235).

A road leads from Château-Neuf to (5½ M. from the Porte du Sahel)
_Chéraga_ (650 ft.; Hôt. des Voyageurs, humble), a pleasant village
among fruit-trees, and (3 M.) _Staouéli-Trappe_ (p. 237), situated on
a shelf-like terrace above the coast, where the French first
encountered the troops of the dey in 1830. The old Trappist monastery
founded here in 1843 was purchased in 1904 by the Swiss Consul
Borgeaud, who has converted the abbey-lands of about 3000 acres into a
model farm (no admittance). The burial-ground contains the tomb of
Col. Marengo (1787–1862).

From Staouéli-Trappe a road descends to the N.W. to (1 M.) _Staouéli_
(p. 237). The highroad joins the Castiglione road at (11 M.)
_Sidi-Ferruch_ (p. 237), a station on the steam-tramway.

(2). TO BOUZARÉAH a new road (2½ M.) leads to the N.W. from _El-Biar_ (see above), through the pretty valley of the _Oued bel-Elzar_, one of the feeders of the Oued M’Kacel (see above), while the old road (2 M.) leads to it from _Château-Neuf_ (see above), crossing an uninteresting plateau and, about ½ M. short of Bouzaréah, passing the _Ecole Normale Primaire_.

A more interesting route to (5 M.) Bouzaréah is from the _Quartier Bab el-Oued_ (Pl. B, 1), formerly the N.W. suburb of Algiers, inhabited chiefly by Spaniards. From the Boul. du Général-Farre or Boul. Militaire Nord (Pl. C, 1; p. 222) we follow the Avenue de la Bouzaréah (Pl. C, B, 1) and the Avenue Beau-Fraisier, in the old suburb of _Cité Bugeaud_, to the Pont du Beau-Fraisier crossing the Oued M’Kacel. We thence ascend the fine Chemin des Carrières, passing near the blue-limestone quarries on the spurs of Mont Bouzaréah, then through a side-valley of the Frais-Vallon (p. 234), with its luxuriant vegetation, and lastly mount in windings past the _Hospice des Vieillards_.

The village of =Bouzaréah= (1230 ft.; Hôt. de France, humble; pop. 2500), in an open site on the crest of _Mont Bouzaréah_ (1335 ft.), the culminating point of the Sahel, is a favourite goal for excursionists in summer. A road leads to the N.E. from the village, past the _Fort de la Bouzaréah_, on the left, and the _Christian Cemetery_, on the right, to (¾ M.) the _Observatoire d’Alger_ (1148 ft.). The roof of the observatory affords a fine view of the Bay of Algiers and of the hills of Great Kabylia as far as Cape Bengut (p. 254).

From the Observatory we may descend either to the E. by the steep
Chemin Sidi Ben-Nour, passing the fort of that name, to the _Avenue
des Consulats_ (see below), or to the N. by a steep and stony path to
the _Vallée des Consuls_ (p. 236).

A road leads to the N.W. from Bouzaréah in ¼ hr. to the poor huts of the _Village Arabe de la Bouzaréah_, on the slope of a flat hill (1178 ft.), overgrown with cacti and dwarf-palms, where we have a splendid *View of the forest of Baïnem, Cape Caxine (p. 237), the S.W. chain of the Sahel, with the ‘Tombeau de la Chrétienne’ (p. 238), and Jebel Chenoua (p. 242), as also of the Blida Atlas with the deep incision of the Chiffa Ravine (p. 215).

From the Arab village the road descends to the W. to the (1¼ M.)
=Forêt de Baïnem=, the largest wood (1250 acres) near Algiers. We
follow the ‘Route Forestière Wendling’, high on the slope of the
Sahel, with a fine view of the coast between Pointe Pescade (p. 237)
and Cape Caxine, at first through underwood, richly carpeted with
flowers in spring. We then pass through the remains of a pine-forest
to the (1¾ M.) _Rond des Eucalyptus_, a bifurcation in a small
eucalyptus grove (straight on is the Route Forestière Mignerot leading
to Guyotville, 3¼ M.; p. 237). We follow, to the right, the beautiful
Route Forestière Combe (2 M.), which descends through groups of
cork-trees, pines, and eucalypti, past a ravine, to the _Maison
Forestière_, whence it is continued by a eucalyptus and mimosa avenue
down to _Villas_ (p. 237), on the Castiglione road, a station on the
steam-tramway.

f. Notre-Dame d’Afrique and St. Eugène.

TRAMWAY (No. 1, p. 218) to the Hôpital du Dey; thence an omnibus every
½ hr. (1–4 pers. 1 fr. 20 c.; each addit. pers. 30 c.) to the church
of Notre-Dame d’Afrique.—TRAMWAY (No. 7, p. 219) to St. Eugène. The
terminus ‘Deux-Moulins’ is only a few paces from the station of the
steam-tramway to Castiglione (R. 35).

The tramway through the Avenue des Consulats ends at the _Hôpital Militaire du Dey_ (Pl. A, B, 1), which, with its gardens, occupies the site of a villa of Hassan Pasha (p. 225). We follow the Boul. de Champagne, and then diverge to the right by the Route de Notre-Dame d’Afrique (½ hr.), a narrow road, shady towards evening, affording splendid *Views of the Bay of Algiers.

The large domed church of =Notre-Dame d’Afrique= (443 ft.), a pilgrimage-church for sick persons and mariners, founded by Card. Lavigerie in 1872, rises conspicuously on a spur of the N.E. slope of _Mont Bouzaréah_ (p. 235), above the Christian and the Jewish burial-grounds (see below). From the terrace in front of the church, where the blessing of the sea by the clergy every Sunday at 3.30 attracts many spectators, we survey the coast as far as the Pointe Pescade (p. 237). Behind the church is the _Hôt. Bompard_.

The _Vallée des Consuls_, which has its name from the villas of the European consuls of the Turkish period, a shady and extremely fertile vale above _St. Eugène_ (see below), affords charming walks. A pleasant road leads through it from Notre-Dame d’Afrique, shaded by gnarled old olive-trees. We may thence mount to the _Observatory_ (comp. p. 235), or else descend in 20 min. to St. Eugène; but the descent viâ _Fort Duperré_ to _Deux-Moulins_ (p. 237) is very rough and fatiguing.

From the lower end of the Boul. du Général-Farre (p. 234), beyond the still uncompleted _Quartier de l’Esplanade_ (Pl. C, 1), runs the AVENUE MALAKOFF (Pl. C, B, 1), close to the shore and protected against the breakers by a high limestone wall, leading to the _Fort des Anglais_, an old Turkish fort on a rocky headland. Opposite, to the left, on the spurs of Mont Bouzaréah, lie the _Christian Cemetery_ and the interesting _Jewish Cemetery_ of Algiers.

Beyond the cemeteries we come to the little town of =St. Eugène= (Hôt.-Restaur, du Château-Vert, déj. 2½, D. 3 fr.; Restaur. Deux-Moulins; pop. 4800, incl. 500 Jews), with several factories and pretty villas. The tramway-terminus, _Deux-Moulins_, at the N.W. end of the town, is the starting-point for walks to the _Pointe Pescade_ (p. 237), the _Forêt de Baïnem_ (p. 235), and other places.

35. From Algiers to Tipaza and Cherchell.

a. Viâ Castiglione.

STEAM TRAMWAY (p. 219) from the station in the Quartier Bab el-Oued
(Pl. B, 1 ; in connection with the electric tramway from Rue Waisse,
Pl. C, 4) to (28½ M.) _Castiglione_; four trains daily in 2¾–3½ hrs.
(fares 3 fr. 15, 2 fr. 30 c.).—DILIGENCE from Castiglione three times
daily to (5 M.) _Bérard_ and twice daily viâ (43½ M.) _Tipaza_ to (60½
M.) _Cherchell_. In order to visit the _Tombeau de la Chrétienne_ we
have to take a private vehicle (costing, from Castiglione to Tipaza,
with a stay of 2–3 hours at the Ferme Seuillet or the Ferme du
Rocher-Plat, about 12–15 fr.).

Interesting ROUND OF THREE DAYS: 1st. By early train to Castiglione;
drive (taking provisions) to Ferme Seuillet (walk to Tombeau de la
Chrétienne) and to Tipaza (see pp. 238, 239); there visit the E. hill,
sending carr. on to the hotel.—2nd. Visit lighthouse and W. hill of
Tipaza early; drive to Cherchell about noon (see pp. 242, 243).—3rd.
Drive about noon to Marengo (see pp. 244, 243; lunch); take afternoon
train to Blida, and evening train thence to Algiers.—Attractive but
more costly, FOUR DAYS’ ROUND: 1st. By early train to Blida; by midday
or evening train to Bou-Medfa; by omnibus to Hammam Rhira (p.
212).—2nd. By carr. from hotel to (16 M.) Marengo, and thence by
steam-tramway (see pp. 243, 244) or by carr. to Cherchell.—3rd. Drive
about noon to Tipaza (see pp. 243, 242).—4th. Tombeau de la
Chrétienne; towards evening by steam-tramway from Castiglione back to
Algiers.—Tours by MOTOR CAR, comp. p. 173.

From Algiers to (3¾ M.) _Deux-Moulins_ (_St. Eugène_), see pp. 235, 236. Here begins the finest part of the coast-road, which will repay walkers as far as Cape Caxine or Guyotville. The spurs of _Mont Bouzaréah_ (p. 235), furrowed by many little ravines, come close down to the sea. The coast, undermined at places by the surf, presents a picturesque series of small headlands, bold cliffs, and rocky islets.

The most striking spot is the (5 M.) *=Pointe Pescade= (Restaurant), a headland crowned with the mouldering walls of a Turkish fort (1671), overlooking the blue sea and the coast as far as Cape Matifou and beyond.

By road and railway we next come to the (5½ M.) _Bains Romains_ (Hôt.-Restaur.) and the _Hôt. de la Fontaine Romaine_, both sea-bathing places in summer, to (7 M.) _Villas_, lying below the _Forêt de Baïnem_ (p. 235), and to (8 M.) _Cape Caxine_, on the gneiss rocks of which rises a _Lighthouse_ (210 ft.; visible 24 M. round).

Beyond the precipitous _Grand Rocher_ lies (9½ M.) _St. Cloud-sur-Mer_, a sea-bathing place. The coast now grows flatter.

10 M. =Guyotville= (82 ft.; Hôt. des Touristes, humble), a village of 3500 inhab., with a colony of Italian peasants, who cultivate early vegetables and grapes on the sandy soil, protected from the sea-winds by plantations of Spanish reeds (Arundo donax) and in spring by narrow fields of rye. On the plateau to the S. of the village, in the territory of the tribe of _Beni-Messous_, a number of dolmens (see pp. 324, 229) still exist.

From Guyotville to the _Forêt de Baïnem_, see p. 235.

Near the low headland of _Râs Acrata_ the road reaches the broad *_Bay of Castiglione_, much exposed to N.W. gales, which extends in a slight curve to _Jebel Chenoua_ (p. 242), a hill we sighted soon after leaving Guyotville. We have a view also of the pretty adjoining bay of Sidi-Ferruch. To the right, near (12½ M.) _Les Dunes_, part of the sand-hills is cultivated.

13 M. _La Trappe_ and (14½ M.) _Staouéli_ (Hôt. Malakoff, quite good) are stations for _Staouéli-Trappe_ (p. 234).

From Staouéli and from the (15½ M.) _Station Sidi-Ferruch_ roads lead to the N.W. (one 2¼, the other 2 M.) to the small sea-bathing village of =Sidi-Ferruch= (49 ft.; Hôt. de la Plage, plain), at the end of a sandy tongue of land formed by the surf and by the deposits of the Oued Mazafran (p. 238). It attracts also jackal-hunters and anglers from Algiers in winter. An inscription at the entrance to the _Fort_ recalls the landing of French troops here in 1830 (comp. p. 234). A little to the N.W. are the scanty remains of an _Early Christian Church_, with baptistery, etc.

As we proceed, the Atlas of Blida (p. 169) is visible for a time. 18 M. _Zéralda_ (62 ft.; Hôt. de Zéralda), an agricultural village, lies in a broad coast-plain, the lowest of four old beach-terraces which mount to the N.E. in gigantic steps to Staouéli-Trappe.

The road now leads between low sand-hills, with pines and underwood, to the _Oued Mazafran_ (called in its upper course Oued Chiffa, p. 213), through whose valley, deeply furrowing the Sahel, we have another glimpse of the Atlas of Blida.

22 M. _Mazafran_, on the left bank of the stream, is the junction of a branch-line to (6¼ M.) the little town of _Koléa_ (460 ft.; Hôt. de France; Hôt. du Commerce), founded by Andalusian Moors in 1550, finely situated on the S. slope of the Sahel, and noted for its fruit-culture. The Jardin des Zouaves deserves a visit.

The next stations are for the use of villages situated above the line, on the N. margin of the Sahel plateau. 23½ M. _Douaouda-les-Bains_, 25½ M. _Fouka-Marine_, two small sea-bathing places. In the distance, on the crest of the Sahel, appears the Tombeau de la Chrétienne, resembling a haystack.

28½ M. =Castiglione= (128 ft.; Hôt. du Tapis-Vert, good; Hôt. de Paris; Hôt. de l’Oasis, humble) is a large village of 2000 inhab., on the vine-clad slope of the Sahel. Below are the unpretending sea-baths, where lodgings may be procured.

The HIGH ROAD TO (43½ M.) TIPAZA, affording at first a beautiful view of the coast, of Jebel Chenoua, and the hills of the Dahra (p. 209) beyond Marengo, leads viâ the fishing-villages of (30 M.) _Chiffalo_ (founded by Sicilian fishermen from Cefalù) and (31 M.) _Bou-Haroun_, whose inhabitants are engaged in the anchovy and sardine fishery, to (33½ M.) _Bérard_ (66 ft.; Café-Hôt. Bérard, poor), a banana-growing village.

36 M. _Ferme Seuillet_ (102 ft.), a large farm, is the starting-point for the _Tombeau de la Chrétienne_. The rough road to the tomb (2½ M.) ascends in windings (partly avoided, after 10 min., by a short-cut to the left), at first through underwood, and then to the S.W. through vineyards.

The so-called *=Tombeau de la Chrétienne= (856 ft.; Arabic _Kbûr er-Rûmia_), the largest tomb in the Atlas regions and one of the most conspicuous of sailors’ landmarks on the whole coast of Algeria, stands on one of the highest points of the S.W. range of the Sahel. It was probably erected by Juba II. (p. 244), in imitation of the Medracen (p. 274), as a tomb for his family. The building consists of a low square pedestal, of about 70 yds. each way, and a circular substructure relieved by sixty Ionic half-columns and four blind portals, crowned with a pyramid rising in steps, of which 33 still exist. The present name is derived from the cruciform mouldings of the door-panels. The monument, originally 130 ft. in height, but now 108 ft. only, has suffered severely from the vandalism of native treasure-hunters, who bored two tunnels into it, and from bombardment by two deys of Algiers, bent on the same quest. Further damage was done by earthquakes in 1825 and 1867, and the masonry also has been loosened by the removal of its leaden cramps. The building is surrounded by dense underwood and is partly overgrown by it on the N. side. Key and candles at the keeper’s hut on the N.E. side (fee 50 c.).

The ENTRANCE is under the blind portal on the E. side, where the
original vestibule has almost disappeared. A short passage leads to
the antechamber; in the wall on the right, near two rude reliefs (lion
and lioness), is a passage, once closed by stone slabs, with a flight
of seven steps. Beyond this is a winding gallery, about 165 yds. long,
probably destined for funeral processions, with small wall-niches for
lamps. The gallery leads to the two inner chambers, an ante-room, and
the larger chamber, with three wall-niches, in the centre of the
monument, probably the tomb of the kings, but now quite empty.

The ASCENT of the monument, from the S. side, rather a toilsome climb,
conveys a still more striking idea of its grandeur than the long
groping in the inside. The *Panorama from the top embraces the coast,
from Sidi-Ferruch to Jebel Chenoua; the hills of the Dahra, with Jebel
Zaccar Chergui (p. 212) to the S.W.; the broad Mitidja plain to the
S.; and the Atlas of Blida with the ravine of the Chiffa.

We return to the Ferme Seuillet by the same route, or descend to the N.W. by the steep road to (37½ M.) the _Ferme du Rocher-Plat_ (85 ft.).

The highroad next passes the (42 M.) _Ferme Demonchy_, intersects a beautiful eucalyptus-grove, and passes the E. hill of Tipaza (p. 242). In approaching Tipaza we obtain a charming view of its little bay and the lighthouse.

43½ M. =Tipaza.=—HOTEL. _Hôtel du Rivage_, prettily situated at the S.
base of the lighthouse hill, with a small garden, R. 2½, B. ½, déj. or
D. 2½–3, pens. 7 fr.

_Tipaza_, a small seaport of 2000 inhab., mostly Mohammedans, founded in 1854, stands on the ruins of _Tipasa_, a place with a Berber name, but originally an ancient Phœnician settlement, and from the time of Emp. Claudius (about 40 A. D.) a Roman colony. Thanks to its advantageous site near the Nador valley, the main outlet in Roman times of the densely-populated W. Mitidja, Tipasa became in the 2nd cent. one of the most prosperous seaports of Mauretania. The most glorious period in its history was at the close of the 4th cent. when Tipasa, famed for its staunch adherence to the Catholic faith, repelled the attacks of Firmus, the Berber prince (p. 244); but after a century of prosperity most of the inhabitants fled to Spain in 484 in order to escape from the persecutions of Hunerich, king of the Vandals. Since its occupation by the Arabs the old town, already much impoverished, has disappeared from the page of history.

The site of Tipaza, secluded and peaceful, is strikingly picturesque. The adjoining coast is richly varied, and close by rise the great limestone rocks of Mt. Chenoua. At the same time there are remains of numerous Roman and early-Christian buildings around, all in complete ruin, and partly overgrown with luxuriant vegetation.

Ancient Tipasa, originally occupying only the central castle-hill, which now bears the lighthouse (see below), gradually extended over the coast-plain to the S. of the bay, and also along the slopes of the W. and E. hills. The late-Roman _Town Walls_, 2410 yds. in length, are still traceable at places. The busy trade of the port led, probably at an early period, to the construction of a broad _Landing Place_ with substantial quays, the space for which was obtained by the levelling of the rocky terrace on the coast. The Roman _Outer Harbour_, behind the rock-islets near the E. hill, probably served as a place of refuge in stormy weather only. Since the middle ages the coast-line has been much modified by the encroachments of the sea.

We begin our walk on the N. side of the village, at the present _Harbour_, which occupies the site of the now submerged Roman landing-place. The huge rock (possibly used as a mausoleum), undermined by the sea, which rises in the middle of the harbour, was left untouched by the Roman engineers. During the construction of the new harbour the remains of a Roman _Cistern_ and underground _Conduits_ were unearthed.

From the harbour we walk to the N., round a small bay, to the LIGHTHOUSE HILL (112 ft.), gorgeous with flowers in spring, where a few vestiges of Roman streets, cisterns, and a temple are traceable (see above). At the _Lighthouse_ (phare) we obtain a delightful view. Near it, on the N. margin of the hill, a precipice has been formed by a landslip.

The road connecting the highroad with the harbour and the lighthouse hill leads past the Hôtel du Rivage and through the *=Thermæ=, a grand bath-house of the 2nd or 3rd cent., rivalling the W. baths of Cherchell (p. 246). Among the ruins, still 30 ft. high in places, extending into the Jardin Trémaux, the frigidarium on the E. side is still quite recognizable.

Near the hotel, to the left, we enter the =Jardin Trémaux= (adm. kindly granted), the garden of a private estate, adorned with antique and early-Christian relics. On the E. side, near the baths, we observe, protected by a roof, a fine late-Roman sarcophagus, bearing nuptial and sacrificial scenes. Near it is an old Christian sarcophagus, with Christ, the Good Shepherd (beardless); on the sides are lions tearing a gazelle to pieces.

In the middle of the grounds, to the left of the road, are a few relics of a Roman _Amphitheatre_ (3rd cent.?), which even during the French period has served as a quarry.

The road, farther on, passes the =Nymphæum= (on the left), a sumptuous late-Roman fountain (3rd or 4th cent.), 26 yds. in breadth, backed with a semicircular wall. In front of it is a platform 6½ ft. high, once bedecked with Corinthian columns and with statues, over which the water descended into a narrow trough or basin.

Immediately behind the fountain is a well-preserved vault, once the _Reservoir_ for the water brought to Tipasa by an underground conduit, 5½ M. long, from the valley of the Nador. A few paces away are the noteworthy ruins of a Roman _Mausoleum_ (1st cent.?).

The _Roman Theatre_, at the exit of the gardens, to the right of the park-road, yielded the materials for building the hospital of Marengo. Several tiers of seats are still traceable.

From the _W. Gate_, of whose round towers alone a few relics remain, we follow the vestiges of the town-walls to the N. W. to the (5 min.) WEST HILL (about 100 ft.), the _Râs el-Knissa_ (‘church promontory’) of the natives.

A few paces to the right of the town-walls, just above the undermined margin of the coast-terrace, some fragments of a wall and two arcades of an aisle mark the site of the =Bishop’s Church= of Tipasa. Erected in the 4th cent., the church was a basilica, 57 yds. by 49 yds., with nave and triple aisles; the nave, 14½ yds. in breadth, was afterwards trisected by the addition of two rows of columns; little remains of the semicircular choir-recess.

Of the square _Baptistery_, on the N. side of the church, there remain the round font, with three steps, and fragments of the external walls. An adjoining chamber has a fine mosaic pavement; several other rooms show traces of a heating apparatus.

On the left, to the W. of the town-walls, lay the early-Christian _Western Cemetery_, with countless rock-tombs, sarcophagi, and monuments sadly desecrated by herds of cattle. About a hundred paces to the N. of the church, in the rocks rising above the sea, are several _Grottes Funéraires_. Near them is a large round _Mausoleum_, once adorned externally with sixteen half-columns, containing fourteen wall-niches (arcosolia) for coffins and the slab of a table for love-feasts (agapai).

About 2 min. to the S. W. is the _Burial Church of Bishop Alexander_, built at the end of the 4th cent., a small basilica with nave and aisles, of irregular shape, of which the foundations only remain. On the E. side is a rectangular altar-niche with nine sarcophagi, containing, as the eulogistic inscription in the nave declares, the remains of ‘the nine righteous men’ (probably the nine predecessors of Alexander). The right aisle contains many sarcophagi and a semicircular table for love-feasts. At the W. end of the nave are a mosaic with fish in seven rows and an inscription in memory of the founder, who was probably buried in the W. apse, added later, and accessible by a narrow portal only.

We now return to the harbour, and ascend thence, close to the sea, past the remains of a small _Roman Burial Ground_, to the (10 min.) EAST HILL (115 ft.), outside the town-walls where thousands of graves indicate the great extent of the early-Christian _Eastern Cemetery_.

Here, beyond a few peasants’ huts, we reach the best-preserved ruin at Tipasa, the *=Basilica of St. Salsa=, the patron saint of the town. This church, built in the first half of the 4th cent, over the heathen sarcophagus of Fabia Salsa, was a square burial-chapel, about 16 yds. each way, with nave and aisles, but in the 5th or 6th cent. was prolonged westwards into a basilica 33½ yds. long, with a vestibule and with galleries over the aisles. At the same time the remains of the saint were transferred to a Roman sarcophagus, which was placed on a high pedestal in the old nave, now the choir of the enlarged church. The rows of clumsy columns in the nave are a later addition. The walls between the choir-pillars belong to a restoration of the 7th or 8th century. Among the ruins of the walls, still 10–12 ft. high at places, lie Ionic capitals and other fragments in picturesque confusion. Near the façade are preserved relics of the old stairs to the galleries.

The small _Chapel_ and the square _Hall_ (later a burial-place) on the S. side of the church date perhaps from the 4th century.

An *EXCURSION TO CAPE CHENOUA will be found attractive. We first
follow the Cherchell road for 1 M.; we then turn, beyond the _Ferme
Trémaux_ (p. 244), to the right and cross the Nador valley to the
small sea-baths of _Chenoua-Plage_, at the E. base of Mt. Chenoua. A
narrow road leads thence, up and down hill, along the beautiful _Baie
du Chenoua_ to the _Anse des Grottes_, which owes its name to the
numerous caves in the limestone rocks (_Grottes du Nador_). On the
narrow coast-terrace between (7½ M.) _Cape Chenoua_ and the _Râs
el-Amouch_ is the secluded settlement of a French contractor, who with
a staff of Spanish hands carries on a cement-factory and quarries the
red marble of the cape, which was already known to the Romans.

The ascent of *=Jebel Chenoua= is interesting, both for the sake of
the view from the top and for the glimpse it affords of its peculiar,
purely Berber inhabitants. From the hilly coast-road just mentioned
the route ascends to _Tenzirt_ and (2–2¼ hrs.) a _Pass_ (about 2300
ft.) between the two chief heights of the Chenoua. Thence in 40 min.
more we reach the E. peak (2976 ft.), crowned with the kubba of _Lalla
Tefouredj_ (Berber _Lalla Tzaforalz_). The path descending from the
pass to _Desaix_ (see below) will be found convenient.

The ROAD FROM TIPAZA to (17 M.) CHERCHELL (diligence, see p. 236) branches off to the W. from the Marengo road at (2 M.) _Gué du Nador_ (p. 243), crosses the stream, and leads past (3 M.) _Desaix_ (p. 244), through a bleak tract at the foot of Mt. Chenoua.

5½ M. _Castellum du Nador_, a late-Roman fortified country-seat (3rd or 4th cent.), was originally a quadrangular walled enclosure of 55 by 47 yds.; immediately to the left of the road there now remain the ruins of two round corner-towers and of a handsome gateway flanked with two square towers.

The road leads on to the watershed, from which one has a view of the Atlas of Blida behind and the Dahra mountain spurs (p. 208) in front. Thence it dips into the valley of the _Oued el-Hachem_.

9½ M. _Marabout Sidi-Ameur_ (164 ft.), on the left bank of the stream, at the junction of the Marengo road (p. 244).

About ¾ M. farther on we observe, on the left, the *=Cherchell Aqueduct=, coming from the village of Marceau, the largest Roman work of the kind in Algeria, which, rising in three tiers to a height of over 100 ft., here bridges a side-valley.

Passing several hill-farms, owned by French families, the road next turns to the N.W. into the valley of the _Oued Bellah_. Beyond the (14 M.) _Café de l’Oasis_ we pass under the aqueduct, of which twenty pillars and five arches, built of great blocks of limestone, are still standing here at the foot of the beautiful pine-wood.

Beyond the aqueduct begins the finest part of the road. At first it skirts a pine-clad slope and then, leaving _Cap Blanc_ to the N. E., leads to the W., up and down hill, along the coast. Lastly it passes the fissured _Cape Zizerin_ and two saints’ tombs.

17 M. _Cherchell_, see p. 244.

b. Viâ El-Affroun and Marengo.

RAILWAY (Algiers and Oran Line, R. 33) viâ (31½ M.) Blida (p. 213) to
(43 M.) _El-Affroun_, six trains daily, in l–3/4–2¾ hrs. (7 fr. 75, 5
fr. 80, 4 fr. 25 c.).—STEAM TRAMWAY from El-Affroun viâ (12½ M.)
Marengo to (30½ M.) _Cherchell_, two (as far as Marengo three) trains
daily, in ca. 2¾ hrs.; fare 3 fr. 70 or 2 fr. 70 c.—For the combined
visit to Tipaza and Cherchell, comp. also the diary on pp. 236, 237.

From Algiers to (43 M.) _El-Affroun_, see pp. 217–213. From the railway-station at El-Affroun the STEAM TRAMWAY runs to the W., at the foot of a range of low hills, through the plain of _Mitidja_, which is here very monotonous. To the right, on the crest of the Sahel, is the _Tombeau de la Chrétienne_ (p. 238); in front of us rises _Jebel Chenoua_ (p. 242). We pass the two poor villages of (3½ M.) _Ameur-el-Aïn_, and (8½ M.) _Bourkika_ (345 ft.), where the road from Miliana and Hammam Rhira (p. 212) joins ours.

12½ M. =Marengo= (305 ft.; Hôt. d’Orient, Hôt. Marengo, both unpretending; carriages at the inns only; pop. 4300), a large agricultural village, has an important Wednesday *Market. About 5½ M. to the S. is the reservoir of the _Oued Meurad_.

The ROAD FROM MARENGO TO (8 M.) TIPAZA (carr. 6–8 fr.) crosses the Oued Meurad and intersects the fine *_Forêt de Sidi-Slîmân_ (‘Solomon’s Forest’), still primæval in character, with dense underwood and luxuriant ivy climbing to the tops of the trees.

At the _Oued Nador_, near the (6 M.) _Gué du Nador_, our road joins the Cherchell road (see p. 242). At the (7 M.) _Ferme Trémaux_ it leaves the valley of the Nador, whose estuary is flanked with low sand-hills, and leads to the E. to (8 M.) _Tipaza_ (p. 239).

The highroad (carr. 12–15 fr.) from Marengo to (16 M.) _Cherchell_
(see below) ascends to the W. from the Mitidja through a hilly region
and after about 6 M. turns to the N. It joins the road from Tipaza to
Cherchell at (10 M.) _Marabout Sidi-Ameur_ (see p. 243).

Beyond Marengo the RAILWAY crosses the highroad to Tipaza and then runs parallel to it to (17 M.) _Desaix_ (220 ft.; p. 242). We skirt the S. side of _Jebel Chenoua_ (p. 242).

20 M. _Ruines Romaines._ We cross the _Oued el-Hachem_ (p. 243).

23 M. _Zurich_ (263 ft.). The thriving village of that name, with a fine avenue of plane-trees, lies about 1½ M. to the S. of the station and is inhabited chiefly by natives, who cultivate oranges and vines. The great Thursday market is well attended by the Beni Menasser (see below).

Beyond Zurich the train runs to the W. of the Cherchell highroad. To the left lies the _Cherchell Aqueduct_ (p. 243), while to the right Jebel Chenoua may be seen. 24 M. _Bled Bakora_; 25½ M. _Bou-Hamoud_; 27½ M. _Oued-Bellah_.

30½ M. =Cherchell= or _Cherchel_ (108 ft.; Grand-Hôtel or Hôt. Nicolas, R. 2½, déj. or D. 2½ fr., plain but good, Hôt. Juba, humble, both in the Place Romaine; Hôt. de Valence; pop. 6800, incl. 4700 Mohammedans), a pleasant little seaport, lies on a narrow limestone plateau, an old coast-terrace, at the foot of green hills (750–800 ft.). Behind these hills rises a mountainous region, once well wooded, inhabited by the Berber tribe of the _Beni Menasser_.

Cherchell occupies the site of the ancient Phœnician colony of _Iol_.
From the year 25 B. C. it took the name of _Caesarea_, and in the
Roman imperial age it became the capital of Mauretania and residence
of Juba II. (25 B. C. to 22 A. D.), one of the most learned and
enlightened men of his time, under whom it rapidly rose to importance.
Under Emp. Claudius it became the provincial capital, under the name
of _Colonia Claudia Caesarea_, of Mauretania Cæsariensis, and in
rivalry with Carthage and Hippo Regius (p. 309) grew to be one of the
greatest and wealthiest cities of N. Africa. After the erection of
Mauretania Sitifensis (p. 271) into a new province the prosperity of
Cæsarea began to wane. About 371 its art and industry were almost
annihilated by its capture and pillage by the Donatists (p. 172) under
the Berber prince Firmus, and it lost the last vestige of its ancient
glory when the Vandals transferred their residence to Carthage. In the
10th cent. the town is mentioned under the name of _Cherchell_, but
from the 11th cent. onwards it was entirely deserted. At length, at
the end of the 15th cent., it was revived by Andalusian Moors, who
brought with them their famed potter’s art. In 1516 it was occupied by
Horuk Barbarossa (p. 221), in 1531 it was unsuccessfully attacked by
Admiral Andrea Doria (p. 115), and lastly, after being taken by the
French, it was enclosed by a wall in 1843. As the harbour affords but
little shelter the town has now little or no trade.

Archæologists may like to examine the scanty remains of the _Roman Fortifications_ (2735 by 1640 yds.), which extend over the crest of the hill-range with its fine views; but the chief attraction is the Museum of sculptures of the period of Juba II., which form the only certain memorials of ancient Cæsarea, ‘an oasis of Greek culture in the midst of the Berbers’.

The PLACE ROMAINE or ESPLANADE forms the nucleus of the little town. Among the trees here rises a _Marble Fountain_, composed of Roman architectural fragments found in the environs, remains perhaps of a palace of king Juba’s era (the four colossal masks are copies; see below). The Corinthian column and fragments of other columns at the back of the fountain were excavated in the Roman theatre (p. 246). The parapet of the Place Romaine affords a survey of the harbour (p. 247).

On the E. side of the Place Romaine rises the new *=Museum=, which consists of four galleries enclosing a central court. Among the sculptures exhibited here are admirable replicas of famous Greek works of the archaic and of the culminating periods of Greek art (5–4th cent.), which were executed by Greek masters for the adornment of king Juba’s residence. Adm. at any time; the custodian (½–1 fr.) shows also the Thermes de l’Ouest (see below). Catalogue (1902), 3 fr.; conservator, M. A. Munkel.

Passing through the ENTRANCE ROOM (S.W. Pavilion; busts, statues,
etc.) we enter the—

SALLE BERBRUGGER (S. Gallery). 31. Marble statue of Venus; *1. Athena
(torso), a copy in marble of a famous bronze by _Alcamenes_ (5th
cent.); 46. Torso of a youth or Dionysus, probably after a marble
statue of the _School of Praxiteles_; 10, 13. Two torsos of Diana; 39
B. Female statue with the attributes of Ceres; 33 B. Aphrodite (or
Proserpine); several draped female statues.—In the middle of this
gallery are several marble heads on brackets: *64. Apollo, after an
archaic Attic original (early 5th cent.); 69. Juba II. as a youth;
without number, Agrippina.

SOUTH-EAST PAVILION. On the walls, mosaics (hunting-scenes, three
Graces, etc.). In the centre, 11. Onyx statuette of Diana hunting;
109. Egyptian basalt statue of a king Thutmosis; 23. Marble group of
Pan and a Satyr; 34. Venus.

The SALLE JONNART (E. Gallery) contains in glass-cases pottery, lamps,
bronzes, glass, coins, etc. In the middle, casts of statues found at
Cherchell but now in the Museum of Algiers.—We now cross the CENTRAL
COURT, with interesting architectural specimens, to the—

SALLE VICTOR WAILLE (W. Gallery). 19. Hercules, after an original of
the 5th cent.; *7. Dionysus; 19. Æsculapius, both after originals of
the 4th cent.; *17G. Shepherd, replica of a work of _Praxiteles_; 21,
22. Two torsos of Hermes; *47. Torso of a youth.

NORTH-WEST PAVILION. In the middle, draped female statue (Muse?),
found in the theatre; numerous inscriptions; fragments of sculpture
and architecture.

SALLE CAGNAT (N. Gallery). *39. Colossal female statue after a model
by _Phidias_; 37. Canephor (archaic); 38. Hermaphrodite and a Satyr
(Hellenistic). On the N. wall on brackets: Four colossal masks from
king Juba’s palace mentioned above (_Pergamenian School_; 1st cent.).

NORTH-EAST PAVILION. Inscriptions; several objects of Punic origin. In
the centre, 68. Bust of Augustus; 49B. Muse.—Leaving this room by a
door in the N. wall we enter a—

COURT containing sarcophagi and numerous architectural fragments.

Leaving the Museum we cross the Place Romaine to its W. side, where we follow the third side-street (from the N.) to the W. and soon reach on the right, nearly opposite a little mosque, the *=Thermes de l’Ouest= (W. Baths), dating from the 2nd or 3rd cent., the grandest Roman ruins in the town, with walls still rising to a height of 10–13 ft. (concrete faced with brick) and bits of old mosaic pavement. Most of the antiques in the museum were found in these baths, in which they seem to have been collected in the early-Christian period.

The ancient _Portico_, on the E. side of the baths, once with granite
columns 26 ft. high, is now embedded in the building of the
Manutention, and on the S. side are several chambers hidden under the
Prison Civile.

From the present entrance on the S. E. side we first come to a suite
of five important chambers. The central hall, 26 by 16 yds., was
probably the _Frigidarium_, which was flanked on three sides with
smaller basins (piscinæ). The two narrow passages behind the S. and
the N. basins show traces of the stairs that once ascended to the
upper story.

On the W. side of the frigidarium is a room supposed to have been the
_Tepidarium_, which, like its side-rooms, is accessible only by
climbing over the walls. The hall behind the tepidarium, with its
semicircular niche, was apparently the _Caldarium_.

The Baths command a delightful view of the sea and of the coast to the
W., as far as Cape Ténès (p. 209).

Proceeding from the Thermes de l’Ouest we take the side-street at the mosque mentioned at p. 245 to the S. and reach the RUE DE TÉNÈS, the principal street of the town which leads to the W. (right) to the Porte de Ténès (see below). We, however, turn to the E. (left) and then follow the Rue du Centre, the first S. side-street. In the first side-street of the last, on the right, is the entrance to the famous old CHIEF MOSQUE ‘of the hundred columns’, completed in 1573, now the _Military Hospital_. Into the original ‘house of prayer’ a corridor and four hospital dormitories have been built; the antique columns, which are said to have been brought from the W. Baths, have been disfigured by a coating of paint.

At the S. end of the Rue du Centre, on the right, is a brick wall, the sole relic of the Roman _Thermes du Centre_.

A few paces to the left, on the hill-side above the Rue du Caire, are the remains of the _Roman Theatre_, unearthed in 1905. The E. side-entrance (parodos), between the stage and the auditorium, still exists, but the 27 tiers of seats were used for building the neighbouring barracks in 1845.

The _Barracks of the Tirailleurs_, on the hill above the theatre,
stand on six antique _Cisterns_, once fed by the Cherchell aqueduct
(p. 243). Passing through the Porte de Miliana, the S. gate behind the
barracks, we may now follow a path through the fields to the ruined
walls of the _Roman Circus_, once over 435 yds. long, which still lay
within the ancient town-walls.

Outside the _Porte de Ténès_ (comp. above), the W. town-gate, on the
old Gunugu (Gouraya) road, lay several _Roman Burial Grounds_. A
collection of objects unearthed here has been made by the commandant,
_M. Archambeau_, at his country-seat ½ M. from the gate.

From the Roman Theatre we follow the winding street to the N. and reach the S. side of the Place Romaine at the _Catholic Church_, built in the pseudo-classical style. In front of the high-altar and at the end of the left aisle are two early-Christian mosaics.

We may go down to the =Harbour=, either from the Place Romaine or viâ the W. Baths (p. 245), passing a large _Roman Basin_ (piscina) and a ruined _Turkish Fort_ of Horuk Barbarossa (p. 221).

The very shallow harbour, scarcely 5 acres in area, lying behind the fortified _Ilot Joinville_ with its lighthouse, is probably identical with the _Roman Naval Harbour_, where part of the Alexandrian and Syrian fleet was always stationed to defend the coast against pirates. The short pier at the point of the lighthouse-island and an old embankment on the cliffs on the E. side of the bay protected the ancient _Commercial Harbour_.

To the E. of the Place Romaine and the Porte d’Alger, at the S.E. angle of the Champ de Manœuvres, are relics of the _Thermes de l’Est_ (E. Baths), including part of the chief hall, 22 by 13 yds., with two niches.

From the highroad, 5 min. to the E. of the drilling-ground, a short path to the right leads to the foundation walls of the _Roman Amphitheatre_, overgrown with dense scrub. Since 1845 the ruins have served as a quarry.

36. From Algiers to Cape Matifou and to Aïn-Taya viâ Maison-Carrée.

20 M. STEAM TRAMWAY (p. 219), three trains daily (five on Sun. and
holidays) in ca. 2¼ hrs. (fares 2 fr. 30, 1 fr. 65 c.).—DILIGENCE from
Rouïba (p. 249) to (4½ M.) _Aïn-Taya_ twice daily, in 1 hr.—A pleasant
drive may be taken from Algiers to Aïn-Taya direct.

The STEAM TRAMWAY runs parallel with the railway through the S. E. suburbs of Algiers (p. 232), past the _Jardin d’Essai_ (p. 232), and through the little town of _Hussein-Dey_ (p. 233), to the railway-station of _Maison-Carrée_ (p. 217). It then crosses the _Harrach_ by a Turkish bridge of 1697.

7½ M. =Maison-Carrée= (66 ft.; Hôt. du Roulage, Hôt. de l’Harrach, both humble; pop. 7300, incl. 2700 Mohammedans and 3200 foreigners, mostly Spaniards), prettily situated on the right bank of the Harrach, amidst hills rising some 200 ft. above the stream, possesses an agricultural school and an interesting cattle-market (Frid.). It owes its name to the square Turkish _Citadel_, built in 1746, now the _Prison de l’Harrach_, used for native convicts.

About 1¼ M. to the N. of Maison-Carrée, near the sea, lies the
_Monastère St. Joseph_, the headquarters of the _Missions d’Afrique_
founded by Card. Lavigerie (p. 346), whose members owe their name of
_White Fathers_ (Pères Blancs) to their white gowns Arabian in
appearance. The monastery owns an ethnographical collection from the
interior of Africa.

From Maison-Carrée the steam-tramway mentioned at p. 219 runs across
the Mitidja to (19 M.) =L’Arba= (335 ft.; Hôt. des Etrangers; Hôt. de
l’Arba), a small town of 2300 inhab., with an important Wednesday
market (Arabic arbáa), and then along the foot of the Atlas, partly
through orange-groves, to (23 M.) =Rovigo= (361 ft.; Hôt. des
Eaux-Thermales; Hôt. du Commerce; pop. 4200, chiefly Mohammedan). This
is the station for (4½ M.) _Hammam-Melouan_ (about 720 ft.), a small
watering-place with hot saline springs, chiefly patronized by natives,
in the narrow ravine of the _Harrach_.

A picturesque hill-road leads from L’Arba to (59 M.) _Aumale_ (p. 250;
diligence in 12 hrs.) viâ (14½ M.) _Sakamody_ (2585 ft.), (47½ M.)
_Bir-Rabalou_ (2106 ft.), and (50½ M.) _Les Trembles_.

The Matifou road ascends to the top of the hill-chain and leads to the E. to the village of (10 M.) _Retour-de-la-Chasse_ (75 ft.), 2 M. to the N.W. of railway-station Maison-Blanche (p. 249), and to (15½ M.) _Rouïba_ (p. 249).