Chapter VIII: Sea Routes in the Eastern Mediterranean (2)

Next, on the E. coast of Sicily, stands forth the _Penisola della Maddalena_ (177 ft.), once a coast-island but now joined to the main island by the deposits of the _Ciani_ and _Anapo_. It ends in the _Capo Murro di Porco_, with a lighthouse on the top.

Entrance to the harbour of _Syracuse_, see p. 162.

65. From Tripoli to Alexandria viâ Benghazi and Derna.

STEAMBOATS (agents at Tripoli, see p. 406; at Alexandria, see p. 432).
=1.= _German Levant Line_ (cargo-boats), three times monthly (80
marks).—=2.= Steamers of the _Banco di Roma_ (p. 406) fortnightly viâ
Malta, Benghazi, Derna, and Solum.—Between Tripoli, Lebida
(occasionally), Mesurata, Benghazi, and Derna there plies a
fortnightly steamer of the Società Nazionale (comp. R. 66).

_Tripoli_, see p. 406. Skirting the flat, sandy coast, with its numerous oases, including that of _Tajûra_ (p. 411), we pass the small _Râs Sotara_, _Râs el-Hamra_ (‘red cape’), and _Râs Ligata_.

In the fertile undulating plain to the E. of the small port of _Ligata_ (lighthouse; sailing-boat from Tripoli in about 7 hrs. if the wind is favourable) lies _Lebida_, _Lebda_, or _Khoms_ (pop. 3500; Brit. vice-cons.), in its oasis, a poor little seaport (for alfa) with open roads, relics of old fortifications, and an Italian school.

About 2 M. to the S.E. of Lebida lies the site of =Leptis Magna=,
which fell into decay after the first irruption of the Arabs. In
ancient times it was one of the richest trading towns in N. Africa. It
was the starting-point of the coast-road to Carthage (see p. 407) and
also of the Limes Tripolitanus, the Roman frontier-wall, which down to
the conquest of the Garamantes (p. 407) and the Gætuli in the 2nd and
3rd cent. A.D. protected the province of Africa against the Sahara
tribes. The ancient harbour, with its massive quays, at the mouth of
the _Kinyps_, which was a copious stream in the Roman age (now a
scanty brook, the _Oued Lebda_), is completely choked with sand. The
once famous oasis and the grand ruins of the time of Septimius Severus
(p. 407) also, except the triumphal arch (comp. pp. 315, 316), are
almost entirely buried in sand.

On the rocky coast, which here endangers navigation, we next pass the _Râs et-Tabia_, adjoined by the little port of _Marsa Ugra_, and then, situated in the oasis near the _Râs es-Sahal_, _Slîten_ or _Zelythen_ (pop. 7000), a seaport for alfa. Beyond the _Râs el-Ihûdi_ we sight _Cape Mesurata_, the ancient _Promontorium Trikeron_ (‘triple horn’) or _Cephalus_, a striking landmark.

The small port of =Mesurata= or _Misrâta_ (pop. 3000), in its little oasis of palms, fruit, and olives, is noted for its carpets and woven stuffs.

Leaving the coast we now steer to the E. across the _Syrtis Major_, or _Gulf of Sidra_, the largest on the N. African seaboard.

The town of =Benghazi= or _Bengâsi_ (Albergo Maffei, near the harbour, Italian; Brit. consul, J. F. Jones; pop. 20,000, incl. 1200 Europeans, mostly Maltese and Greeks, and 2500 Jews; garrison 3000) is the capital of the Turkish province (mutessariflik) of _Benghazi_ or _Barca_, which was separated from Tripolitania in 1869. Its dazzling white houses extend beyond the isthmus of the _Sebkha_ or salt-lake (with its large evaporating grounds) and over the broad corn-growing coast-plain bordering the plateau of Merj (p. 414). The large _Gasar_ or castle, now the seat of the governor (mutessarif), with barracks, together with the lighthouse and a windmill, form the chief landmarks as we make for the harbour.

The harbour, much silted up and very imperfectly protected by an unfinished breakwater, is sometimes rendered inaccessible for months in winter by the prevailing W. gales. The steamers have to lie to, under steam, some 3 M. off the coast, and passengers are landed in lighters or in rowing-boats.

The chief sight is the _Market Quarter_, where caravans from the interior are sometimes met with. The minarets, as at Tripoli, are in the Turkish style. The European colony is mainly Maltese, Greek, and Italian. The _Italian School_ is attended chiefly by Jewish children. A branch of the _Banco di Roma_ (p. 406) and an _Italian Post Office_ have been recently established.—To the E. of the town is a beautiful _Palm Grove_.

To the N.E. of Benghazi lie the ruins of _Euhesperidae_, or
_Berenice_, as the town was called after the wife of Ptolemy III.
Euhesperidæ, famed in Greek myth for the gardens of the Hesperides,
was the westmost seaport-town of Barca, the ancient =Cyrenaica=, a
fissured hill-region rising in terraces from the sea, which was
colonized in the 7th cent. B.C. by Greeks, mostly Dorians from Thera
(p. 417) and Crete (p. 415). From its loftily situated capital
_Cyrene_ (p. 411), one of the richest and most brilliant cities in the
Greek world, Greek culture spread rapidly over the whole coast-region,
where the numerous seaports acquired also great wealth through the
caravan-traffic with the interior. For a time (about 400–330 B.C.) the
Cyrenians succeeded in repelling the attacks of the Carthaginians with
their mighty fleet, but in 322 they succumbed to Ptolemy I. (p. 433),
who united the different parts of the district under the name of
_Pentapolis_ (‘five cities’). In 96 B.C. this region along with the
Marmarica (p. 415) fell into the hands of the Romans, and it was
united by Augustus with Crete as a Roman province. In the great revolt
of the numerous Jews who had settled in Egypt and Barca in the
Ptolemaic age, 200,000 Greeks and Romans are said to have perished in
Trajan’s reign. This terrible disaster was followed by the irruption
of Berber tribes and of Arab marauders, and later (after 1551) by the
misgovernment of the Turks. The ruin of the country was completed by a
gradual subsidence of the coast which seriously prejudiced navigation.
Though well supplied with rain, extremely fertile, and not too hot in
summer, this region is now but thinly peopled (about 500,000), and the
only towns of any size are Benghazi, Merj (p. 414), and Derna (p.
414). The highlands are occupied by hordes of nomadic Arabs, who often
defy the Turkish authorities, and who are largely under the influence
of the fanatical brotherhood of the Senussîyeh. The convents of the
sect serve also as caravanserais. European goods are conveyed by the
caravan-route to Kufra, the headquarters of the sect, and thence to
equatorial Africa. Fire-arms are frequently smuggled into the country,
especially from Greece. The chief exports are cattle (to Malta,
Syracuse, etc.), goatskins, barley (to England), wool (to Marseilles
and Genoa), and butter (to Constantinople). Large flocks of sheep are
driven overland into Egypt.

Beyond Benghazi the steamer rounds _Râs Adrian_; whose name recalls the town of _Adrianopolis_ founded by Hadrian. On a height, farther on, appears _Tokra_, a poor village near the ruins of the Greek twin-towns of _Tauchira_ (_Teuchira_) and _Arsinoë_.

The next place on the coast, at the foot of a chain of high hills overgrown with brushwood, is _Tolmeita_ (Ital. _Tolemáide_), the ancient _Ptolemais_ or _Tolometta_, now the site of imposing *Ruins (Greek, Roman, and early-Christian). The Greek Kothon was the harbour of =Barca=, a thriving Greek colony on the margin of the plateau, about 15 M. inland, founded about 540 B.C. and temporarily destroyed by the Persians in 510. The town was still a place of some importance in the middle ages as a military station and a resting-place for Mecca pilgrims, but now, under the name of _Merj_ or _Medinet el-Merj_, which has been given to the whole province, it has become a poor little Turkish garrison-town, inhabited by Arabs and Jews. No trace of its ruins is left.

Passing the rocky islet of _Sarat_ and _Râs el-Hamâma_, the ancient cape _Phycus_, we reach the bold _Râs Sem_, the northmost point of Barca, about 10 M. to the N.W. of Cyrene (see below).

In a small plain on the coast, between the Râs Sem and _Râs el-Hilil_ (the ancient _Naustathmus_), lies the poor seaport of _Marsa Susa_, recently colonized by Moslems from Crete. Near it are the ruins of _Apollonia_ (later _Sozopolis_), once the harbour of Cyrene, but destroyed by the silting up of the coast.

From Marsa Susa a mule-track ascends to the S.W., through valleys with luxuriant vegetation and venerable olive-groves, past several ancient rock-hewn _Granaries_, and past a *_Necropolis_ with countless rock-tombs, to (3–4 hrs.) the ruins of =Cyrene= (2002 ft.; now _Krennah_ or _Gurena_), lying on the edge of a lofty plateau, with fine views all around. This was the capital of the Cyrenaica, founded near the fountain of Cyra about 620 B.C., but already spoken of in the 4th cent. A.D. as ‘urbs deserta’. The ruins have not yet been scientifically explored, but there are traces of streets, and, beneath a mantle of dense vegetation, scanty remains of the acropolis, the temples, and a Roman circus. Near them is a convent of the Senussîyeh, to which unbelievers are not admitted.

About 10 M. to the S.E. of Marsa Susa, on the caravan-route to Guba
(or Mara), once lay the town of _Ghermes_, whose *Ruins are the best
preserved in the Cyrenaica (town-wall, forum, stadium, etc.).

Beyond the bay of _Marsa el-Hilil_ the coast is again rocky. Near a beautiful, richly wooded ravine are the ruins of _Erythrum_. We next steer past _Râs Turba_ and then round the little _Tsor Kersa Islands_ and the _Râs Boasa_ (lighthouse).

=Derna= (pop. 4000), the _Darnis_ or _Darnae_ of antiquity, a small seaport to the E. of the headland, but entirely destitute of a harbour, is now the chief trading town in E. Cyrenaica. Vessels anchor in the open sea, over a mile from the landing-place. Near the Turkish fort and the custom-house are remains of American fortifications (comp. p. 408) and a wireless telegraph-station.

The town itself lies on a plateau in the finest *_Coast Oasis_ of Barca (yielding dates, figs, almonds, tobacco, etc.). In the principal square, near which the camel-caravans from the interior encamp, is the unpretending residence of the Turkish kaimakam. The shops in the busy market-street are mostly owned by Arabs and Greeks.

Beyond the _Râs et-Tîn_ (Gr. _Chersonesos_), the coast recedes far to the S. The _Gulf of Bomba_, with its rocky islands, here forms a large natural harbour, open towards the E. only. Beyond _Menelaus Island_ (now _Susra Mesrâta_) once lay the _Portus Menelai_. The _Platea Island_ near it received from Thera, about 640 B.C., the first Greek colony in the Cyrenaica.

We next skirt the _Marmarica_; the coast-region between the gulfs of Bomba and _Solum_. In the deep-set bay of _Tobruk_ (the ancient _Antipyrgos_) it possesses the best natural harbour between Bizerta and Alexandria, frequented chiefly by sponge-fishers.

The featureless and inconspicuous coast of _Egypt_ is bounded by the low white dunes near the borders of the Libyan desert. Lastly we steer across the broad so-called _Arabian Gulf_, between the _Râs ed-Dabba_ and the _Nile Delta_ (p. 418), and enter the harbour of _Alexandria_ (comp. p. 418).

66. From Tripoli to Constantinople viâ Derna and Crete.

Between Tripoli and Constantinople there is a fortnightly service by
the _Società Nazionale_ (Line VIII: Catania, Syracuse, Benghazi,
Constantinople; comp. R. 64). Dep. from Tripoli every second Mon.
aft., from Mesurata Tues. morn., from Benghazi Thurs., from Derna
Frid. noon, from Canea Sat. night, from Candia Sun., from Smyrna Mon.
midnight, arr. at Constantinople Wed. morn. (returning from
Constantinople Mon. night, arr. at Tripoli the second Wed.); fare 117
fr. 60 or 78 fr. 40 c.—From Canea to the Piræus (for Athens) there are
corresponding steamers of the Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co.,
of the Thessalian line of the Austrian Lloyd, and of Line X (p. 493)
of the Società Nazionale.

For the voyage from Tripoli to _Derna_, see R. 65. The steamer next touches at =Crete= (Gr. _Krētē_, Turk. _Kirid_, Ital. _Candia_), the fourth-largest island in the Mediterranean (5402 sq. M.; 303,550 inhab.), formerly Turkish, but nominally independent since 1908.

Nearing the island we first sight the _Aspra Vuná_ (_Madaraes Mts._, 7907 ft.), generally snow-clad, the ancient _Leuka Orē_ (White Mts.). The vessel steers round _Cape Krio_, the S.W. point of Crete, and _Cape Busa_, the N.W. point, and passes the island of _Grabusa_.

We next proceed to the E.N.E., past _Kisamo Bay_ and _Cape Spada_ (_Psakon_), the N. point of the island. Beyond the cape opens the broad _Bay of Canea_ (Gr. _Chanía_).

In favourable weather the steamer anchors in the open roads of =Canea= (Hôt. de France, pens. 8–10 fr.; Hôt.-Restaur. Bristol, pens. 5–8 fr.; at both it is advisable to ask charges; Brit. cons.-gen., R. Peel; pop. 21,000), the capital of Crete, on the site of _Kydonia_. The remains of the Venetian fortifications are interesting. Fine view from the lofty reservoir of the waterworks. Most of the consuls reside at _Chalepa_, the E. suburb.

In stormy weather the steamers round the broad headland of _Akrotiri_ (once _Kyamon_) and anchor in _Suda Bay_, the only good harbour in the island. (Road to Canea.)

After leaving Canea and passing _Cape Drépano_ we have a pleasant view of _Harmyro Bay_ and _Rethymno_, Ital. _Rétimo_ (pop. 9300), the ancient _Rhithymna_, now the third-largest town in Crete. In the heart of the island tower the _Psiloriti Mts._, the ancient _Ida_, often snow-clad, culminating in the _Stavros_ (8065 ft.).

Farther on we pass _Cape Stavros_, an important landmark. We then steer to the S.E., between _Cape Panaghia_ and the barren island of _Dia_, Ital. _Standia_ (870 ft.), where vessels seek refuge from northerly storms, into _Candia Bay_ and anchor in the roads a little off the quay (lighthouse).

=Candia= (Hotels, both near the landing-place: Cnossos, pens. 9–15 fr., with restaurant; Angleterre, rooms only, unpretending; advisable to ask charges at both; Brit. vice-cons., A. Calocherino; pop. 22,480), Gr. _Herákleion_, formerly _Megalókastron_, the seat of the Metropolitan of Crete, is said to have been founded by the Moors on the site of Herakleion, the port of Knossos. Here also the fortifications were built by the Venetians, and were bravely defended by their admiral Franc. Morosini against the Turks for three years until he had to capitulate in 1669.

We walk from the landing-place through the main street and past a handsome Venetian palace to the chief square, with the _Morosini Fountain_. Straight on we come, at the E. end of the town, to an open space, at the N.E. angle of which is the—

*_Museum_, containing the splendid antiquities excavated at Knossos and elsewhere, illustrating the peculiar development of art in Crete at its prime. The oldest objects belong to the so-called island culture (3rd millenary B.C.) of the bronze period, or early and middle Minoan periods, as they are now called after Minos the legendary king of Crete. To the bronze age belong also the pre-Hellenic antiquities, those namely of the so-called Mycenæan or late Minoan period (middle of 2nd millenary B.C.), which are hardly surpassed by the creations of Greece at its zenith. Particular notice should be taken of the wall-paintings, fragments of a procession, stone vases with reliefs, ivory statuettes of bull-baiters, and the two fayence figures of a goddess grasping a snake.

From the old S. gate of Candia a road (horse 3–4 fr.) leads in less than an hour to the site of _Knossos_, the ancient capital of the island. The *_King’s Palace_, excavated here since 1898 by Mr. Arthur Evans, dates from the second or middle Minoan period, but was already half burned down in the Mycenæan period.

The steamer next crosses the _Cretan Sea_, to the N.N.E., to two islands of the _Cyclades_ (p. 492): _Anaphe_ (1349 ft.) and _Santorin_ or _Thira_ (1857 ft.), the ancient _Thera_. Close to _Cape Oia_ (lighthouse) on the beautiful island of Santorin, which is the relic of an old crater (p. 492), are seen the ruins of _Thera_, the ancient capital.

Next, on the left, we sight the island of _Iós_ or _Niós_ (2408 ft.). We then pass through the strait between _Amorgós_ (1233 ft.; lighthouse), the eastmost island of the kingdom of Greece, and the small island group of _Eremonisia_, flanking Naxos on the S.E. side.

The high mountains of _Naxos_ (3289 ft.), the largest of the Cyclades, remain in sight long after we have passed the islet of _Donusa_ (1600 ft.). The islands of _Delos_, once the religious and economic centre of the Cyclades, and _Mykonos_ (1194 ft.) are only visible in the far distance in very clear weather.

The ship presently nears the W. coast of _Nikaria_ (p. 492), an island belonging to the _S. Sporades_ (p. 490), and then (as do also the steamers from the Levant) passes through the _Strait of Chios_ (p. 492) and across the _Gulf of Smyrna_ (comp. p. 530).

_Smyrna_, and thence to _Constantinople_, see pp. 530, 533–536.

67. From (_Marseilles_, _Genoa_) Naples to Alexandria and Port Said.

1174 or 1278 M. STEAMERS (agents at Marseilles, see p. 120; at Genoa,
p. 114; at Naples, p. 137; at Alexandria, p. 432; at Port Said, p.
437). =1.= _North German Lloyd_: (a) from (Marseilles) Naples to
Alexandria, in Jan.-April, on Frid. at noon (from Marseilles on Wed.
aft.) in 4 days; returning from Alexandria Wed. aft. (from Naples
Sat.); fares from Naples 240–480 or 140–180 marks (from Marseilles
280–520 or 160–200 marks); (b) E. Asiatic Line. (R. 24), from
(Algiers, Genoa) Naples to Port Said every second Frid. night
(returning Frid.), in 4 days; fare 242 or 176 marks; (c) Australian
Line (R. 21), from (Genoa) Naples to Port Said every fourth Wed. night
(returning Frid.), in 3–4 days; fare 242 or 176 marks.—=2.= _German E.
African Line_: E. circular tour (RR. 17, 23) from (Marseilles) Naples
to Port Said every third Mon. in 4 days; W. circular tour (RR. 4, 17,
23) from Port Said to Naples every third Sat.; fare 242 or 176
marks.—=3.= _Rotterdam Lloyd_, Batavia Line, from Marseilles every
second Thurs. direct to Port Said (returning Tues.) in 5 days.—=4.=
_Nederland Royal Mail_, Batavia Line, from Genoa direct to Port Said
in 5 days.—=5.= _Messageries Maritimes_, S. Mediterranean Line, from
Marseilles direct to Alexandria (Port Said, Jaffa, Beirut, R. 72),
every Thurs. noon (returning Frid. aft.), in 4 days; fare 315 or 240
fr.; return-ticket (‘interchangeable’), available also for the quick
boats of the Austrian Lloyd (R. 68), 603½ or 433¼ fr.—=6.= _Società
Nazionale_, Line V (Genoa to Alexandria), from (Genoa, Leghorn) Naples
on Thurs. aft. to Alexandria (returning Thurs. aft.), in 4 days; fare
252 or 172½ fr.

The great liners of the P. & 0., Orient Royal, Royal Mail, White Star,
Bibby, and other British companies are almost exclusively for
through-passengers from Gibraltar or Marseilles to Port Said, India,
Australia, etc.

From _Marseilles_ and _Genoa_ to _Naples_, see RR. 23, 24; from Naples to the _Straits of Messina_, see R. 27.

On the left, beyond Messina, are seen the ruins of _Reggio_ (p. 159), at the foot of the _Aspromonte_, the S. point of Calabria.

Leaving the Straits of Messina, we steer across the _Ionian Sea_, to the E.S.E., in a direct line for Egypt. _Mt. Ætna_ (p. 159) remains long in sight. For two days we lose sight of land. The mountains of Crete (p. 415) are visible on the voyage to Alexandria only in perfectly clear weather; but on the voyage to Port Said we pass within a few miles of Crete and near the island of _Gavdos_, Ital. _Gozo_ (1063 ft.; lighthouse), which flanks Crete on the S.W.

On the ALEXANDRIA VOYAGE, nearing land, we overlook the long isthmus of _Lake Mareotis_ (p. 432), from the sand-hill near _Abusîr_, on the E. shore of the _Arabian Gulf_ (p. 415), to _Ramleh_ (p. 436) and _Fort Abukîr_ on the W. shore of that gulf. The chief landmarks are the lighthouse of _Râs et-Tîn_ (p. 434) and _Fort Cafarelli_ or _Napoléon_ (p. 434).

We pass through the strait of _Boghaz_, amidst the chain of cliffs between Râs et-Tîn and the fortified _Marabout Island_, and sight the two lighthouses of _El-Meks_ in succession. Lastly we steer through the outer harbour, with its breakwater, and past the _New_ or _Gabbari Mole_ (Môle aux Charbons), 1000 yds. long, into the inner harbour of _Alexandria_ (comp. p. 434).

* * * * *

On the PORT SAID VOYAGE the flat coast of Egypt is generally approached at night. We first sight the lights of _Damietta_, on the E. bank of the Damietta branch of the _Nile_, the ancient _Phatnitic Arm_. This and the Rosetta arm are now the only mouths of the river, which had seven in ancient times.

A conspicuous landmark is _Fort Jemil_, between the former _Mendesian_ and _Tanitic_ mouths. It rises on the low downs flanking _Lake Menzaleh_ (970 sq. M.), the largest lagoon in the Nile delta.

The entrance to _Port Said_ (p. 436), 766 yds. in breadth, is marked by a lighthouse, several minor lights, and a number of buoys. On the W. pier (r.) rises the Lesseps monument (p. 437).

68. From Venice or Trieste to Alexandria and Port Said viâ Brindisi.

BETWEEN VENICE AND ALEXANDRIA (1423 M.), _Società Nazionale_ (Line
VII: Venice, Alexandria, Port Said) on the 14th and 28th of every
month (returning 1st and 15th), viâ Ancona, Bari, and Brindisi, in 5–6
days; fare 280 fr. 95 or 191 fr. 30 c. (from Brindisi 195 fr. 25 or
132 fr. 15 c.). Agents at Venice, see p. 420; at Brindisi, p. 429; at
Alexandria, p. 432.

BETWEEN TRIESTE AND ALEXANDRIA (1383 M.), _Austrian Lloyd_, two lines:
1st. Quick steamer from Trieste on Thurs. noon (from Brindisi Frid.
aft.), in ca. 4 days (returning from Alexandria Sat. aft., from
Brindisi Tues. foren.); fare 360 or 245 fr. (from Brindisi 300 or 200
fr.). 2nd. Trieste and Syria Line (R. 72), on Sat. foren., viâ Gravosa
(occasionally) and Brindisi, in 5 days (returning Thurs. aft.); fare
250 or 175 fr. (from Brindisi 200 or 135 fr.). Agents at Trieste, see
p. 425; at Brindisi, p. 429; at Alexandria, p. 432.

BETWEEN TRIESTE AND PORT SAID, _Austrian Lloyd_, Syrian Line, see
above; also the Bombay steamers (usually 1st and 16th of every month;
to Port Said in 4 days), the Calcutta steamers (12th and 25th of each
month; 6 days), and the Japan steamers (27th of each month; 6 days).
Agent at Port Said, see p. 437.

From Brindisi to Port Said, _P. & O._ on Sun. morn., corresponding
with Calais and Brindisi express, chiefly for through-passengers to
India.

=Venice.=—At the RAILWAY STATION (Pl. C, D, 3; Restaurant, good),
where care of heavier luggage may be left to the hotel porters, are a
gondola station and two piers for the local steamers (see
below).—Agents for sleeping-cars, _Thos. Cook & Son_ and _P. Faerber_
(see p. 420).

ARRIVAL BY SEA. The steamers anchor in the Canale di San Marco,
opposite the Punta della Salute (Pl. G, 6). Custom-house examination
on board. Gondola tariff, see below.

=Hotels.= HÔT. ROYAL DANIELI (Pl. a; H, 5), on the Riva degli
Schiavoni with its fine views, R. 7–30, B. 2, déj. 4, D. 7–10, pens.
15–25 fr.; *HÔT. DE L’EUROPE (Pl. b; G, 6), on the Canal Grande,
entrance Calle del Ridotto, R. 5–8, B. 2, déj. 5, D. 7, pens. 14–18
fr., frequented by American and French travellers; GRAND-HÔTEL (Pl. o
; F, 6), on the Canal Grande, entr. Via Ventidue Marzo, Ramo Minotto
2322, R. 7–30, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 7 fr.; *GR.-HÔT. BRITANNIA (Pl. c; G,
6), also on the Canal Grande, entr. Corte Barozzi, similar charges;
four high-class houses.—Less pretending: *GR.-HÔT. D’ITALIE (Pl. h; G,
6), in Campo San Moisè and on the Canal Grande, R. 3½–15, B. 1½, déj.
3½, D. 5–6 fr., often full; *GRAND CANAL HOTEL & MONACO (Pl. l; G, 6),
on the Canal Grande, entr. Calle Vallaresso, R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4,
D. 6 fr.; *HÔT. REGINA (Pl. t; G, 6), also on the Canal Grande, entr.
Calle Traghetto, R. 5–18, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr., frequented by
English and American travellers; HÔT. DE MILAN & BRISTOL (Pl. u; G,
6), also on the Canal Grande, entr. Calle Traghetto, R. from 4, B. 1½,
déj. 3–3½, D. 4½–5 fr.; HÔT. BEAU-RIVAGE (Pl. r; H, I, 5), Riva degli
Schiavoni, R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5 fr., patronized by English
and American travellers.

=Restaurants.= *_Bauer-Grünwald_, Via Ventidue Marzo, adjoining the
Gr.-Hôt. d’Italie; _Pilsen_, in the Moderne Hôt. Manin, N.W. corner of
the Piazza of St. Mark.

=Cafés.= _Florian_, _Aurora_, _Quadri_, all in the Piazza of St.
Mark.—TEA ROOM. _Ortes_, Via Ventidue Marzo 2288.

=Gondolas=, the famous and picturesque boats which are the cabs of
Venice, have their chief station on the Molo (Pl. H, 6; p. 422).
Tariff: in the town, per hour, 1–2 pers. 1½, 3–4 pers. 2, 5–6 pers. 2½
fr. (after dusk ½ fr. extra); half these charges for each addit. ½
hr.; from the _Molo_ to the sea-going steamers, or the reverse, 20 c.
each passenger; trunk 20, small packages 5 c.—A boat with two
_gondolieri_ costs double. (As a rule one, ‘basta uno’, is enough.) In
case of dispute with the boatmen, often insolent and especially
towards ladies travelling alone, a _vígile municipale_ (policeman) may
be applied to.

The =Local Steamers= (_Vaporetti Comunali_), which do not carry
luggage, ply (except in fog) on the main line through the Canal Grande
every 10–15 min., from 6 a.m. till midnight; fare 10, to the Lido 20
c. (money changed on board; fare paid on landing). The chief
landing-stages (_Pontoni_), beginning from the station, are: 1.
_Scalzi_ (Pl. D, 3), near the exit from the station; 2. _Cerva_, Riva
del Carbón (Pl. G, 4), for the Rialto bridge (p. 421) and streets (p.
421) leading to St. Mark’s; 3. _San Tomà_ (Pl. E, 5), for the church
of the Frari (p. 422); 4. _Accadémia_ (Pl. E, 6), for the
picture-gallery (p. 422); 5. _San Marco_ (Pl. G, 6; near the Calle
Vallaresso), for St. Mark’s; 6. _San Zaccaria_ (Pl. H, 5), for the
Riva degli Schiavoni and St. Mark’s; 7. _Giardini Pubblici_ (Pl. L,
7); 8. _Lido_ (p. 424; April-Oct. only). In the reverse direction the
steamers call at the _Riva del Carbón_ (Pl. G, 4) instead of Cerva,
and at _Santa Lucia_, close to the entrance to the railway-station
(see above), instead of Scalzi.

A minor line connects the Riva degli Schiavoni (comp. Pl. H, 5, 6)
with the islands of _San Giorgio Maggiore_ (Pl. H, I, 7; p. 424) and
_Giudecca_; in April-Sept. every ½ hr., in winter hourly.

A third line plies from the Riva degli Schiavoni (dep. near the Ponte
della Paglia, Pl. H, 5, 6) direct to the _Lido_, every 20–30 min.
Ticket 15, return 25 c.; or, incl. adm. to bath-house 40 c., incl.
bath 1 fr. 30 c.

=Post Office.= Fóndaco dei Tedeschi (Pl. G, 4; p. 421), near the
Rialto bridge, 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.; poste restante in the court, on the
left.—=Telegraph Office= (Pl. G, 6; also branch post-office), Bocca di
Piazza, behind the W. side of St. Mark’s Piazza.

=Banks.= _Banca Commerciale Italiana_, Via Ventidue Marzo 2188;
_Società Bancaria Italiana_, San Marco, Bocca di Piazza 1239; _Guetta_
(_American Express Co._), Campo San Moisè; _Thos. Cook & Son_, see
below.—BOOKSELLER. _Istituto Veneto di Arti Gráfiche_, Piazza San
Marco 40.

=Tourist Agents.= _Thos. Cook & Son_, Piazzetta dei Leoni 289 (N. side
of San Marco); _P. Faerber_, in Hôt. d’Italie (p. 419), also
town-agent for the railway.

=Steamboat Agents.= _North German Lloyd_, Piazza San Marco 118;
_Hamburg-American_ (for winter pleasure-cruises by ‘Meteor’), P.
Faerber, see above; _Società Nazionale_, Campo Morosini 2802;
_Austrian Lloyd_, for the Venice and Trieste Line (p. 425), in the
Piazzetta (p. 423); _Hungarian Croatian Co._, Thos. Cook & Son (see
above).

=Consuls.= British, _E. de Zuccato_, Traghetto San Felice, Grand
Canal.—United States Consul, _J. V. Long_, Campiello Querini
Stampaglia 5257.

=Churches.= _English_ (_St. George’s_), Campo San Vio 731;
_Presbyterian_, Piazza of St. Mark 95.

ONE DAY may suffice for a hurried glance, but a week or more should if
possible be devoted to this unique city. Sail through the _Grand
Canal_; inspection of the piazza and the church of _St. Mark_ and the
_Doges’ Palace_ (p. 423).—Of the _Churches_ St. Mark’s (p. 423) is
open throughout the day, Santi Giovanni e Paolo (p. 424) and Frari (p.
422) save from 12–2 (adm. in the afternoon, till their restoration is
completed, 50 c.). The _Doges’ Palace_ is open on week-days, 9–3 (adm.
1 fr., or incl. visit to the Archæological Museum and the Prigioni 2½
fr.), on Sun. and holidays 10–2, free. _Academy_ (p. 422) on week-days
9–4 (adm. 1 fr.), on Sun. and holidays 10–2, free.

_Venice_, Ital. _Venezia_, once the most brilliant commercial city in the world, now a provincial capital, with 148,500 inhab., of whom one quarter are practically paupers, is a commercial and naval port. It lies 2½ M. from the mainland in the lagoons, a shallow bay 25 M. long by 9½ M. broad, separated from the Adriatic by narrow sandy strips of land (_lidi_). The city is built on piles, on 117 islets, and is intersected by over 150 canals, which are crossed by 378 bridges. The interior of the town consists of a labyrinth of narrow streets and lanes, some of them scarcely 5 ft. wide. The centre of traffic is the _Piazza San Marco_ (‘la Piazza’), with the adjacent _Piazzetta_. The other open spaces are called _campi_ or _campielli_. The local name for a street is _calle_ or _salizzada_, and for a narrow canal _rio_.

The tribe of the _Veneti_, the ancient inhabitants of N.E.Italy, were
of Illyrian race, but became Romanized in the 3rd cent. B. C. The
havoc committed on the mainland by the barbarian Huns compelled the
inhabitants of the coast to seek refuge in the islands of the lagoons,
where in 697 they formed the Venetian League, headed by a doge
(_dux_). In 811 _Rivoalto_ (now Venice) became their capital. Aided by
its close connection with the Byzantine Empire (p. 541), the town rose
to be a rival of Genoa in its important traffic between East and West.
In its art also Venice was under Oriental influence throughout the
middle ages. After the conquest of Constantinople by the great doge
_Enrico Dandolo_ in 1204, the lion of St. Mark laid his mighty talons
on the coasts and islands of Greece and Asia Minor. On the Italian
continent also the republic gradually extended its conquests to
Bergamo.

The 15th cent. saw the zenith of the republic’s glory, when her fleet
commanded the whole of the E. Mediterranean. But after their capture
of Constantinople in 1453 the Turks began to menace the Venetian
supremacy. The discovery of America and of the new sea-routes to India
carried the world’s traffic into new channels, while her continental
possessions involved her in the wars between the rival powers of
France, Austria, and Spain. Her protracted conflicts with the Turks
led in 1718 to the final loss of all her Oriental possessions, and in
1798 her political independence was destroyed by the French. From 1814
to 1866 Venice belonged to Austria, and since 1866 has formed a part
of the kingdom of Italy, under whose auspices her trade has somewhat
revived.

The *=Canal Grande= or _Canalazzo_, the main artery of Venice, intersects the city from the _Railway Station_ (Pl. C, D, 3) to the harbour (_Canale_ or _Bacino di San Marco_, Pl. G-K, 6, 7), from N.W. to S.E., and resembles an inverted _S_ in shape. The voyage through it by steamer (p. 419; 25 min.) or by gondola (p. 419; 1 hr., preferable) conveys a most striking impression of the magnificence of mediæval Venice. The canal is bordered with fine old guild-houses, sumptuous churches, and stately palaces of the 12–18th cent., and each of its bends reveals a new and picturesque vista.

LEFT. │ RIGHT.
│
_Chiesa degli Scalzi_ (Pl. D, 3; │
church of the barefooted friars), │
in the highly ornate baroque style │
(1649–89). │
│
│_Fóndaco dei Turchi_ (Pl. E, 3;
│‘trade hall of the Turks’), a late
│Romanesque edifice (11th cent.),
│restored in 1861–9, now the _Museo
│Civico_.
*_Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi_ (Pl. │
E, F, 3), the most beautiful │
early-Renaissance palace in Venice │
(1509), in which Richard Wagner │
died in 1883. │
│
│_Palazzo Pésaro_ (Pl. F, 3), the
│most brilliant example of
│late-Renaissance (1679), now the
│_Gallería d’Arte Moderna_.
*_Cà Doro_ (Pl. F, 3), the most │
elegant Gothic palace (15th cent.).│
│
_Fóndacodei Tedeschi_ (Pl. G, 4; p.│
420), once the warehouse of the │
Germans (1505). │

The *_Ponte di Rialto_ (Pl. G, 4; ‘Rivo Alto’, the ancient name of Venice; comp. p. 420), is a marble arch of 29½ yds. span and 74 ft. in breadth, flanked with shops (1588–92).

Near the bridge are the │
steamboat-piers of Cerva and Riva │
del Carbón (p. 419), whence the │
_Mercería_ (Pl. G, 4, 5), a street │
of shops, and the Calle dei Fabbri │
(Pl. G, 5) both lead in 5 min. to │
_St. Mark’s_. │
│
_Pal. Loredan_ (Pl. F, 5) and _Pal.│
Farsetti_, once Dándolo, both │
Romanesque (12th cent.). │
│
*_Pal. Grimani_, high-Renaissance, │_Pal. Papadópoli_ (16th cent.).
Sanmicheli’s masterpiece (16th │
cent.). │
│
│_Pal. Pisani_ (_a San Polo_),
│Gothic (15th cent.).
│
_Pal. Corner-Spinelli_, │_Pal. Grimani_, high-Renaissance
early-Renaissance, in the style of │(16th cent.).
the Lombardi. │
│
│Near it is steamboat pier San Tomà
│(Pl. E, 5; p. 419), for the old
│Franciscan church *_Frari_ (Pl. E,
│5; adm., see p. 420; ticket valid
│also for San Tomà), in the Gothic
│style (1380–1417), the
│resting-place of many eminent
│Venetians, with admirable
│altar-pieces by Giov. Bellini and
│Titian (temporarily in _San Tomà_,
│close by; adm. 9–5, ticket 50 c.
│admitting also to the Frari
│church).
│
│*_Pal. Fóscari_ (Pl E, 5), Gothic
│(15th cent.).
│
│_Pal. Rezzonico_ (Pl E, 6), built
│in 1680. Robert Browning died here
│in 1889.

Between the Campo San Vitale (Vidal) and the Campo della Carità is the _Ponte di Ferro or dell’Accadémia_ (Pl. E, 6).

│Near the bridge is steamboat pier
│Accadémia (p. 419) for the
│*_Accadémia di Belle Arti_ (Pl. E,
│6), containing admirable Venetian
│pictures (G. Bellini, Carpaccio,
│Titian, P. Veronese). Adm., see p.
│420.
│
_Pal. Cavalli_ (Pl. E, 6), now │
_Franchetti_, Gothic (15th. cent.).│
│
_Pal. Corner della Cà Grande_ (Pl. │
F, 6), by Jac. Sansovino (1532). │
│
_Pal. Contarini-Fasan_ (Pl. F, G, │*_Santa Maria della Salute_ (Pl. F,
6), Gothic (14th cent.). │G, 6), by Bald. Longhena (17th
│cent.); fine pictures by Titian in
│the sacristy.
│
│_Dogana di Mare_ (Pl. G, 6),
│custom-house (1676–82), on the
│point between the Grand and the
│_Giudecca_ canals.
│
_Giardino Reale_ (Pl. G, 6), or │
royal garden, behind the Procuratie│
Nuove (p. 423). │
│
_Molo_ (Pl. H, 6), adjoining the │
Piazzetta (p. 423). │

From the Molo, or from one of the steamboat-piers (p. 419) of San Marco (Pl. G, 6) or San Zaccaria (Pl. H, 5), we next visit the **=Piazza di San Marco= (Pl. G, 5), the centre of the traffic of the city. Even now this far-famed piazza (182 yds. long, 100 yds. wide at the E. end, 61 at the W. end; paved with slabs of trachyte and marble) conveys an admirable idea of the ancient glory of Venice.

On the N. and S. sides of the piazza rise the PROCURATÍE, once the residences of the nine procurators or highest officials of the republic. The _Procuratíe Vecchie_, on the N. side, were erected in 1480–1517. The _Procuratíe Nuove_, now used along with the adjacent old Library (see below) as a royal palace, were begun by Vinc. Scamozzi in 1584. The _Atrio_ or _Nuova Fábbrica_, on the W. side, dates only from 1810. The groundfloors of these buildings, flanked with arcades, are now occupied by cafés (p. 419) and shops.

The old CAMPANILE DI SAN MARCO, at the corner of the Old Library, collapsed in 1902, but has been rebuilt. The top of the tower (adm. 15 c.) commands a fine and extensive *View. The _Torre dell’ Orologio_, a clock-tower built in 1496–9, adjoining the Old Procuratie, forms the entrance to the _Mercería_ (p. 421).

The church of **=San Marco= (Pl. H, 5), which is said to contain the bones of St. Mark, was begun in 830, rebuilt after a fire in 976, and restored after the middle of the 11th cent. in the Byzantine style. The ground-plan (83½ yds. long, 56¾ yds. broad in front) is in the form of a Greek cross (with equal arms), crowned with five domes. The front arm of the cross is flanked with a colonnade. Outside and inside the church is adorned with over five hundred marble columns, mostly Oriental, and with mosaics, chiefly of the 10–16th centuries. The Gothic additions to the façade (15th cent.) enhance its fantastic charm. Over the main portal are four antique bronze-gilt horses from Constantinople.

The INTERIOR is wonderfully impressive. The beauty of the outlines and
the magnificence of the decoration are equally striking. The priceless
_Pala d’Oro_, which forms the altar-piece, from Constantinople (1105),
is shown on week-days (11–2; ticket, 50 c., admits also to the
_Tesoro_ in the right transept, 11–2).

Adjoining the Piazza of St. Mark, on the side next the lagoon, is the *=Piazzetta= (Pl. H, 5, 6). The *_Librería Vecchia_, or old library, now part of the royal palace (see above), by Jac. Sansovino (1536–53), is one of the most beautiful secular buildings in Italy. The adjacent _Zecca_ (mint) now contains the famous library of San Marco. On the opposite (E.) side of the square rises the—

**=Doges’ Palace= (_Palazzo Ducale_; Pl. H, 5), which is said to have been founded in 814 as the residence of the first doge. It was rebuilt after the fires of 976 and 1105, and has since been repeatedly restored and altered. The Gothic exterior is flanked with two superb arcades with pointed arches; the W. front dates from 1423–8; the S. front, next the lagoon, is of the 14th century.

The _Porta della Carta_, the late-Gothic chief portal, next to the church, leads into the quadrangle of the palace, where the façades, though still partly Gothic, show the influence of the new Renaissance style. In the interior (adm., see p. 420) we visit the central and upper floors, containing the state-apartments which were redecorated after the fires of 1574 and 1577, a brilliant example of the Venetian late-Renaissance and rococo art. The countless pictures by Titian, Paolo Veronese, Jac. Tintoretto, and other masters, proclaim the ancient glory of Venice. (Guide unnecessary. Catalogues for public use on week-days.) The groundfloor contains the _Archaeological Museum_ (antiques, Renaissance sculptures, etc.).

At the E. end of the Molo (p. 422) the _Ponte della Paglia_ (Pl. H, 5, 6), which crosses the _Rio di Palazzo_, affords a good view of the ‘Bridge of Sighs’ (_Ponte dei Sospiri_; Pl. H, 5), specially interesting to readers of Childe Harold. The latter bridge connects the Doges’ Palace with the _Prigioni di San Marco_.

The contiguous =Riva degli Schiavoni= (Pl. H, I, 5; ‘quay of the Slavonians’) forms the sunniest promenade in the town. To the left, nearly opposite the _Monument of Victor Emmanuel II._, a narrow lane leads to the church of _San Zaccaria_ (Pl. H, I, 5; adm. in the afternoon 50 c.), built in 1458–1515. Over the second altar on the left is a Madonna by Giov. Bellini (1505).

A few paces to the W. of the church is Campo San Provolo. The street of that name to the right, the first bridge to the left, and then the Calle Corte Rotta and the Ruga Giuffa (Pl. H, 5) lead to _Santa Maria Formosa_ (Pl. H, 4; knock at W. portal; gratuity 25–30 c.), with the famous *St. Barbara by Palma Vecchio.

From the Campo Santa Maria Formosa we follow the Calle Lunga to the E., and near the end of it the Calle Bragadin to the left (N.) to the—

Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo, with the *_Monument of Colleoni_ (Venetian condottiere, d. 1475), the grandest equestrian statue of the Italian Renaissance, by the Florentine Andrea Verrocchio.

The church of *_Santi Giovanni e Paolo_ (Pl. H, 4; adm. see p. 420), once the church of the Dominicans and the burial-church of the doges, erected in the Gothic style in 1330–90, is quite a museum of Venetian sculpture. The finest monument is that of Andrea Vendramin (d. 1478; in the choir, on the left), by Tullio and Ant. Lombardi and Al. Leopardi.

On the S. side of the _Canale di San Marco_ (p. 421), reached by ferry
from the Molo (‘traghetto’, 1–2 pers. 15, 3–4 pers. 20, 5–6 pers. 30
c.), or more quickly by steamer from the Riva degli Schiavoni (see p.
419), are the island and the Benedictine church of =San Giorgio
Maggiore= (Pl. H, 7; if closed, ring on the right), built by Palladio
(1565) and Ant. Palliari. The _Campanile_, 197 ft. high (ascent to the
left of the choir; easy wooden stairs), offers a superb **View of the
city, the lagoons, and the sea, embracing in clear weather the Alpine
chain far away to the N. (finest in the early morning or just before
sunset).

The =Lido=, the most fashionable sea-bathing place in Italy (height of
season July and Aug.), is reached either by the direct steamers or by
those coming from the railway-station (p. 419, 420). An electric
tramway connects the pier with the _Bath Establishment_
(café-restaurant) and with the large hotels on the shore.—See also
_Baedeker’s Northern Italy_.

* * * * *

=Trieste.=—=Railway Stations=, 1. _Stazione Meridionale_ (S. Station;
Pl. B, C, 2; buffet), 10 min. to the N. of the Piazza della Borsa, for
Vienna, Abbazia and Fiume, and Cervignano (Venice).—2. _Stazione dello
Stato_ or _di Sant’ Andrea_ (State Railway Station; Pl. A, 6), at the
S. end of the Old Harbour (p. 426), 15 min. to the S.W. of the Piazza
della Borsa, for the Tauern Railway, and for Assling and Vienna. Cabs,
see below; hotel-omnibus 1 _K_.

=Arrival by Sea.= The _Austrian Lloyd_ steamers anchor in the New
Harbour (p. 426), at Moles I-III, near the Dogana (Pl. B, 2, 3) and
the S. Station, or at the Molo San Carlo (Pl. B, 4; excursion-steamer
‘Thalia’).

=Hotels.= GRAND-HÔTEL, Riva dei Mandracchio, adjoining the Lloyd
Palace (p. 426), a first-class house, to be opened in 1911; HÔT. DE LA
VILLE (Pl. a; C, 4), Riva Carciotti, with first-class restaurant, high
charges, variously judged; HÔT. VOLPICH ALL’ AQUILA NERA (Pl. d; C,
4), with good café-restaurant, R. 3–8 _K_, B. 1 _K_ 20 _h_, D. 3 _K_,
HÔT. TONIATO (Pl. h; C, 4), R. 3–10 _K_, both Via San Nicolò, good;
HÔT. BALKAN (Pl. c; C, 3), Piazza della Caserma, R. from 3 _K_, B. 70
_h_, D. 2 _K_ 80 _h_; HÔT. VANOLI (Pl. k; B, 4, 5), Piazza Grande 2;
HÔT. DELORME (Pl. b; C, 4), Via del Teatro 5; HÔT. CENTRAL (Pl. f; C,
4), Via San Nicolò 15, R. from 2 _K_ 50–4 _K_ 50 _h_, B. 1 _K_ 20 _h_.

=Cafés.= _Caffè degli Specchi_, _Caffè al Municipio_ (in the
town-hall), _Orientale_ (in the Lloyd Palace), all in Piazza Grande;
_Stazione_, Piazza della Stazione.

=Restaurants= at the hotels. Also, _Restaurant Dreher_, Via della
Cassa di Risparmio (Pl. C, 4), near the Old Exchange (p. 426); _La
Cooperativa_, Piazza San Giovanni 5 (Pl. D, 3, 4).

=Cabs.= From or to the stations 1 _K_ 60 _h_ (9 p.m. to 6 a.m. t2
_K_); in the inner town per drive with one horse 1 _K_ (at night 1 _K_
20 _h_), farther out 1 _K_ 40 or 1 _K_ 60 _h_; by time: ½ hr. 1 _K_ 20
_h_, at night 1 _K_ 60 _h_, ¾ hr. 1 _K_ 60 or 2 _K_ 20 _h_, 1 hr. 2
_K_ or 2 _K_ 80 _h_, each ¼ hr. more 50 or 60 _h_ (with pair, 1 _K_ 40
or 1 _K_ 60 _h_; 2 _K_ 20 or 2 _K_ 40 _h_; 2 _K_ 80 or 3 _K_ 20 _h_;
70 or 80 _h_). Trunk 50 _h_; small articles carried inside free,
outside 20 _h_.

=Tramways= from the Boschetto (beyond Pl. E, 2) viâ the Piazza della
Borsa and Passeggio di Sant’ Andrea (p. 427) to _Servola_ (p. 427);
from the S. Station to _Barcola_ (p. 427), etc.—ELECTRIC HILL-TRAMWAY
(views on left, best to sit backward), from the Piazza della Caserma
(Pl. C, D, 3) viâ (2½ M.) _Obelisco_ (80 _h_) in ½ hr. to (3¾ M.) the
rail, station of _Opčina_ (p. 427; 1 M. to the S.W. from the S.
Station).

=Motor Omnibus= in the forenoon, on week-days only, every hour to
_Miramar_ (p. 427; return-fare 3 _K_).

=Steamboat Lines.= _Austrian Lloyd_ (offices in Lloyd Palace, Pl. B,
4) to Venice (daily in summer, in 4–6½ hrs.; in winter Tues., Thurs.,
Sat., returning Mon., Wed., and Frid.); quick boats to Alexandria;
other lines to Syria and to Port Said (comp. p. 418); quick boats to
the Piræus (for Athens) and Constantinople (R. 78), etc.; _Cunard
Line_ (agents, Schröder & Co.), viâ Fiume, Palermo, Naples, and
Gibraltar to New York (R. 16); _Austro-American Line_ (office Via
Molin Piccolo 2) to Buenos Ayres, to Almeria, Cadiz, and Las Palmas,
to New York, and to Patras (R. 78) and Palermo; _German Levant Line_
to Tunis, Algiers, and Oran; _Hungarian-Croatian Co._ (agent, Maule,
Riva dei Pescatori 16) and _Croatian Steamboat Co._ to Fiume.—LOCAL
STEAMERS (from Molo San Carlo, Pl. B, 4) to Barcola (p. 427),
half-hourly in summer, and to Miramar (p. 427) twice daily.

=Post & Telegraph Office= (Pl. 12; C, 3), Piazza delle Poste.

=Consuls.= British Consul-General, _J. B. Spence_; vice-consul, _N.
Salvary_.—United States Consul, _M. G. Hotschick_; vice-consul _O.
Demartini_.—LLOYD’S AGENT, _R. Greenham_, Via San Lazzaro 15.

=English Church Services=, in the Via San Michele 1714, every Sun. at
11 a.m. and 6 p.m.

_Trieste_ (pop. 221,000, Italians, Slovenians, and Germans; in 1758 about 6400 only), the Roman _Tergeste_, the chief seaport of Austria and in the E. Mediterranean, lies on the E. shore of the _Bay of Trieste_, at the head of the Adriatic and at the foot of the _Karst_ or _Carso Plateau_ (1945 ft.), which is often visited by N.E. gales (Bora). Having become the heiress of Venice Trieste was a free harbour from 1719 to 1891; in 1833 it became the seat of the _Austrian Lloyd_, the oldest and one of the greatest of the steamboat companies in the Mediterranean. The harbour is entered by ca. 12,000 vessels annually (imports 573, exports 508 million florins). The new Tauern Railway, completed in 1909, the direct route to the Baths of Gastein, the Tyrol, and thence to Germany, is expected to give a new impulse to the trade of the city.

The =Harbour= comprises the _Porto Vecchio_ (Pl. A, B, 4), sheltered by the _Molo Santa Teresa_ (Pl. A, 5; lighthouse) of 1756, the _Porto Nuovo_ (Pl. A, 1–3), with its four moles and a breakwater 1186 yds. long, constructed in 1867–83, and the _Porto Nuovo di Sant’ Andrea_ or _Francesco Giuseppe Primo_ (Pl. A, B, 7). The last, in the _Bay of Muggia_, was completed in 1910. Between the Porto Nuovo and Porto Vecchio is the _Canal Grande_ (Pl. C, 4), completed in 1756, for small vessels only.

Near the old harbour are the two busiest squares in the town, the PIAZZA GRANDE (Pl. B, C, 4) and the PIAZZA DELLA BORSA. In the Piazza Grande are a marble _Statue of Charles VI._ and the _Maria Teresa Fountain_ (1751). On its E. side rises the _Municipio_ or town-hall (Pl. C, 4). Next to the sea are pleasure-grounds; at the S. end of these is the _Lloyd Palace_ (Pl. B, 4); at the N. end is the _Luogotenenza_ (or governor’s residence; Pl. 7, C, 4).

To the N. of the Piazza Grande are the _Theatre_ (Teatro Comunale Giuseppe Verdi, Pl. C, 4) and the _Tergesteo_ (Pl. 13; C, 4), the new exchange, built in 1852. The _Borsa_, or old exchange (Pl. C, 4), is now the seat of the chamber of commerce.

The VIA DEL CORSO (Pl. C, D, 4), the main street of Trieste, running to the E. from the Piazza della Borsa, separates the new town from the streets of the old town, which ascend the castle-hill. The old _Castello_ (Pl. D, 5) now contains the barracks. Fine views are obtained from the terraces of the _Convento dei Cappuccini_ (Pl. D, 4, 5) and of the CATHEDRAL (_Basilica San Giusto_; Pl. 3, D, 5; closed 12–3), which is composed of three early-Christian churches (6th cent.), united in the 14th century.

Between the cathedral and the Piazza Grande are the open-air _Museo Lapidario_ (Pl. 9; C, 5), Via della Cattedrale 9, and the _Arco di Riccardo_ (Pl. 1a; C, 5), the remains of a Roman arch.

In the Piazza Lipsia, to the S.W. of the Piazza Grande, rises the _Commercial and Nautical Academy_ (Pl. 1; B, 5), containing the _Museo Civico_ of natural history and antiquities. Near it is the Piazza Giuseppina (Pl. B, 5), with a bronze monument by Schilling to the _Archduke Maximilian_ (d. 1867; see below).

ENVIRONS. By the _Passeggio di Sant’ Andrea_ (Pl. A-E, 6, 7), past the
_Stabilimento Tecnico_ (Pl. B, 7) and _Lloyd Arsenal_ (Pl. C, D, 7),
to (2½ M.) _Servola_ (tramway, p. 425).—By hill-tramway (p. 425) to
*=Obelisco= (1125 ft.; Hotel), with terrace; walk thence to the N.W.
along the foot of the Karst to the _Belvedere_ (1303 ft.; fine view;
best in the evening).

The *Excursion to Miramar is best made in the afternoon; the traveller
should ascertain whether or not the park and château are open. The
highroad (4½ M.; motor-omnibus, see p. 425) skirts the coast. We may
take the train also from the S. Station to (5 M.) _Miramar_ or to (5½
M.) _Grignano_ and descend thence in ¼ hr. (or ½ hr.) to Miramar, or
take the tramway (p. 425) to _Barcola_ (sea-baths; Hôt. Excelsior) and
walk thence to (2½ M.) Miramar (motor-omnibus 60 _h_). The pleasantest
route, however, is that of the steamer (p. 425),—The imperial château
of =Miramar=, on the beautiful _Punta di Grignano_, was built in
1854–6 by Archd. Maximilian. It was here that he accepted the imperial
crown of Mexico (1864). The château, which has a charming park, is
open to the public (10–12 and 3–5, in winter 2–4; adm. 60 _h_).

From the S. station of _Opčina_ (pronounced Óptchina; see p. 425;
ordinary trains only stop here) directly in ½ hr. (or from Trieste viâ
Miramar, 10½ M. Nabresina, and 18 M. Opčina in 1¼–2½ hrs.) to (10 or
28 M.) =Divača= (pronounced Divátcha; 1418 ft.; Buffet, also R. 2 _K_
80 _h_, good; quarters also at the Restaurant Obersnel), station for
(1 M.) _Kronprinz Rudolf’s Grotto_ (tickets, etc. at the buffet), for
the (¾ hr.) _Stephanie-Warte_ (1428 ft.; view), and for the grand
_Cataracts and Caverns of St. Canzian_ (tickets and guides at the inn
of Joh. Gombač at _Matavun_, ½ hr. below the Stephanie-Warte, ¾ hr.
from Divača).

See also _Baedeker’s Austria-Hungary_.

* * * * *

The ITALIAN STEAMERS from Venice to Alexandria usually leave the lagoons to the N. of the _Lido_ (p. 424), avoiding _Chioggia_ and the marshy delta of the _Po_. They then steer down the Adriatic Sea towards Ancona. In clear weather we obtain a superb view of the Alps, of the Euganean hills to the N.W., and of the _Apennines_, whose offshoots come close down to the Adriatic near _Rimini_.

=Ancona= (Hôt. Roma e Pace, etc.; Brit, vice-consul; pop. 33,300, incl. about 6000 Jews), 140 M. to the S.E. of Venice, a strongly fortified town and the busiest seaport on the E. coast of Italy, is splendidly situated between the headlands of _Monte Astagno_ and _Monte Guasco_, the N.W. spurs of Monte Conero (p. 428).

The _Harbour_, an oval basin open towards the W., is considered the best in Italy. The well-preserved _Arch of Trajan_, in marble, of 115 A.D., and a _Triumphal Arch_ of the time of Pope Clement XII. (1730–40) recall the two founders of the N. quays. The _Banchina_, on the E. side of the harbour, is a modern quay (1880).

From the Dogana we may walk to the E. in a few minutes to the church of _Santa Maria della Piazza_, with its lavishly decorated façade (1210), and to the late-Gothic _Loggia dei Mercanti_ (Exchange; 1454–9). A little to the E. is the _Prefettura_ (15–16th cent.), with its fine quadrangle and a superb Renaissance archway.

The Via del Comune, near this, leads to the N., past the _Palazzo del Comune_ (of 1493, but much modernized), to the *_Cathedral_ (San Ciriaco; closed 12 to 4.30), on Monte Guasco, a fine point of view. The church, in which Byzantine and Romanesque forms are mingled, dates from 1128–89; the fine porch is of the 13th century.

The STEAMERS round the N. pier, and beyond _Monte dei Cappuccini_ (lighthouse) pass _Monte Conero_ (1877 ft.; the ancient _Promontorium Cunerum_), crowned with a Camaldulensian monastery. This limestone mass does not form part of the Apennines, in front of which it lies, and geologically considered is perhaps, like Monte Gargano (see below), a relic of the great Dalmatian limestone tableland (p. 429).

The coast recedes. In clear weather we sight in succession the summits of the Central Apennines, snow-clad till July: _Monte Vettore_ (8130 ft.), the highest of the _Monti Sibillini_, the _Gran Sasso d’Italia_ (9561 ft.) in the _Abruzzi_, and the _Maiella_, with _Monte Amaro_ (9170 ft.).