Chapter III: BRONZE ROOM (rotunda) contains the other bronzes found in the (2)

Behind the GALATA QUAY (Pl. H, I, 4), constructed in 1879–95, lies a labyrinth of narrow and dirty streets, extending to the other side of the GRAND RUE DE GALATA (p. 545), the chief thoroughfare to the N.E. suburbs. At the S.W. end of the latter are the still busier RUE DE KARAKEUÏ (Pl. H, 4), beside the New Bridge (p. 545), and the Place Karakeuï. where the _Exchange_ rises on the left.

In the old-fashioned W. quarter of Galata are the ruinous _Palace of the Podestà_ (in the Pershembeh Bazaar, Pl. H, 4) and the _Arab Jami_ (Pl. G, 4), the oldest mosque in the city, which was founded at the time of the Arab attacks (717). Near it is the _Yanik Kapu_, an old Genoese gateway. A little farther on, near the Old Bridge (p. 552), is the _Asab Kapu Jami_ (Pl. G, 3, 4), erected by Sinán (p. 552), adjoining which is a beautiful *_Sebíl_ (p. 542), with gilded railings and far projecting timber roof (18th cent.).

From the Old Bridge Pera is reached by the broad Rue Iskander (Pl. G, 3), and from the New Bridge by the steep and dirty YÜKSEK KALDIRIM (Pl. H, 3, 4), partly in steps (and also by the tunnel or by tramway No. 1; p. 538).

On the boundary between Galata and Pera, a little to the W. of the N. end of the Yüksek Kaldirim, rises the =Galata Tower= (Pl. H, 3; 148 ft. high), now entirely modernized, the ascent of which (p. 539) forms the best introduction to a walk through the city. It marks the spot where the new land-walls on the E. and W. sides of Galata met in 1348. We mount 143 steps to the room of the fire-watchmen, and 72 more to the three upper stories.

The *PANORAMA from the fourteen windows of the watchmen’s room
embraces Galata with the buildings on the quay; to the N.E. is the
Jihangir Mosque (p. 544); opposite, on the Asiatic coast, to the
extreme left is the palace of Beylerbey (p. 558); farther to the S. is
Scutari, dominated by the Great and Little Bulgurlu (p. 557). To the
S.E. lie the Princes Islands (p. 535); to the S., above the S. coast
of the Sea of Marmora, rises the Bithynian Olympos (p. 535). With the
aid of the Plan of the city we may easily locate the chief buildings
of Stambul, from the Aya Sophia and the Ahmed Mosque with its six
minarets, to the S., round to the Great Bazaar with its numerous
little domes, to the Place d’Armes (Séraskier-Kapou), with the great
tower, the barracks, and the Suleiman Mosque, to the Mihrimah Mosque,
and to the Byzantine city-wall at the extreme N. end of Stambul. At
our feet lies the Golden Horn, with the two bridges and the naval
harbour. In the distance, to the N.W., peeps the mosque of Eyúb (see
inset map in Plan of city).

The modern streets of =Pera=, the European quarter, run to the N.W. from the Galata Tower, between old Turkish cemeteries and large gardens, across the whole hill. The embassies to the Sublime Porte, the European churches, schools, hospitals, and shops also are situated here.

The GRANDE RUE DE PÉRA (Pl. H, I, 3, 2), the continuation of Yüksek Kaldirim, passes the _Monastery of the Dancing Dervishes_ (Tekkeh; Pl. H, 3), whose strange performances may be witnessed on Fridays (except during Ramadan), usually from 7.30 to 8.30 Turkish time (4½–3½ hrs. before sunset; adm. 5 pias.).

We may now cross the Place du Tunnel, past the upper station of the tunnel railway (Pl. H, 3; p. 538), and follow Rue Kabristan (or one of the narrow streets to the left, farther to the N., such as the Rue Vénédik) to the—

=Public Grounds of tho Petits Champs= (Pl. H, 3, 2), near the _British Embassy_ (Pl. H, 2) and the chief hotels (p. 537). They afford a beautiful view of Stambul and the Golden Horn, and are a favourite resort in the afternoon and evening (concerts, see p. 539).

We return, to the N.E., by Rue Tepé Bachi to the Grande Rue de Péra, whence the Rue Yéni Teharchi leads to the S.E., past the _Galata Seraï_ (Pl. H, 2; Imper. Lyceum), to Top Haneh.

Our street ends, at the N.W. end of Pera, at the PLACE DU TAXIM (Pl. 1, 2). Here on the right, adjoining the Kishla Jaddesí, are the _Artillery Barracks_, one of the chief scenes of conflict on 25th April 1909 when the Young Turks fought their way into the city, and the *=Taxim Park= (Pl. I, 1; band, see p. 539), and on the left a large esplanade.

From the Place du Taxim we may ascend the Ayas Pasha Boulevard, past the _German Embassy_, or from the Taxim Park the Dolma Bagtché Déré (Pl. K, 1; Dolma-garden valley), past the _Ecuries Impériales_, to PLACE DOLMA BAGTCHÉ DÉRÉ. On the E. side of this square, below the suburb of that name, rises the =Dolma Bagcheh Palace= (pp. 558, 546), of which only the high walls with their superb gateways are seen on the inland side. The sultan repairs hither weekly in solemn procession (‘selamlik’) to Friday prayer (at noon), usually offered in the neighbouring _Valideh Jami_ (mosque of the sultan’s mother; Pl. K, 1, 2).

We may now follow the road to the N.E. through the adjacent suburb of _Beshiktash_, where, opposite the steamboat pier, rises the _Türbeh Kheireddin Barbarossa_ (p. 221), which is best viewed from the Bosporus. Farther on are the ruins of the Chiragan Seraï (p. 558).

From the pier of Beshiktash a road leads to the N.E. to the =Yildiz Kiosque=, surrounded with barracks and high walls, formerly the residence of the now deposed sultan Abdul Hamid (1876–1909). The _Palace_ and its _Park_, and the private _Hamidieh Mosque_, built of white marble, are inaccessible.

It is now best to return by tramway (No. 2; p. 538) to the large suburb of =Top Haneh= (Pl. I, 3), inhabited chiefly by Turks, with the loftily situated _Jihangir Mosque_ (1553).

Here, in the esplanade of the Artillery Arsenal on the Bosporus, are situated the _Mosque of Mahmud II._ (1830) and a fine but now roofless _Well House_ of the time of Ahmed II. (1703–30), resembling the sebíl at the Asab Kapu (p. 543). The _Mosque of Kilij Ali Pasha_ (Pl. I, 3) was built by Sinán (p. 552).

We now return to Pera by the Rues Tchoukour Bostan and Yéni Tcharchi (p. 544), or by the GRANDE RUE DE GALATA (Pl. I, H, 3, 4), the busiest international thoroughfare, to Place Karakeuï (p. 543).

b. Stambul.

From the Rue Karakeuï, in Galata, the =New Bridge= (Pl. H, 4, 5) crosses the Golden Horn (p. 555) to Stambul (toll 10 paras; carr. 2½ pias.). It was originally built of timber in 1845, and called _Sultan Valideh Bridge_ after its founder (the ‘sultan’s mother’), and was rebuilt in 1877. The new iron bridge was begun in 1909. It affords beautiful *Views of Galata and Stambul, of the Bosporus and the Asiatic coast, while its busy and picturesque traffic presents scenes of endless variety.

At the S. end of the bridge lies the PLACE EMIN EUNOU (Pl. H, 5), called also _Baluk Bazar_ or fish-market, beyond which rise the fine outlines of the—

*=Yeni Valideh Jami= (Pl. H, 5), or ‘new mosque of the sultan’s mother’. Begun in 1615 by _Khoja Kassim_ for the mother of Ahmed I., after the model of Ahmed’s Mosque, and damaged by the great fire of 1660, it was not completed till 1663. In the middle of the outer court are ranged, as in all the larger Turkish mosques, the forecourt (harám) with its three portals, the mosque itself, and the türbeh (p. 539), all turned towards Mecca (to the S.E.).

The forecourt, with its two elegant minarets and large wooden roofs
above the side-portals, has a remarkably fine octagonal fountain of
ablution (shudrivàn) in the centre.

Like the Suleïmanieh (p. 552) the mosque is preceded by two
colonnades. In the interior the lower wall surfaces and the four
massive pillars of the dome are incrusted with bluish-green tiles. The
mihrâb wall is connected with the pillars by a gallery; adjoining it,
near the mihrâb or prayer-niche itself, are the superb pulpit and the
railed-in gallery of the sultan. The adjacent *Private Rooms of the
sultan still have their original decoration of fayence tiles and
stained glass.

The Türbeh contains the sarcophagus of the sultan’s mother and the
tombs of five sultans, recognizable by the turban and double heron’s
plume.

On the W. side of the outer court is the =Missir Charshi= (Pl. G, 5; ‘Egyptian Bazaar’), originally for goods from Egypt, but now a general market, next in importance to the Great Bazaar (p. 551). Among the wares in the open shops of the vaulted street the chief commodities are spices, drugs, and pigments.

To the W. of the Egyptian Bazaar, at the foot of Rue Ousoun Tcharchi
(p. 551), rises the _Mosque of Rustem Pasha_ (Pl. G, 5), vizier of
Suleiman the Great (p. 542) and husband of his daughter Mihrimah (p.
553). It was built by Sinán (p. 552). The interior is noteworthy
chiefly for the superb effect produced by its fayence tiles.

We follow the tramway (No. 3; p. 538), to the S.E., through the Rue Bagtché Kapou, so named after the old ‘garden-gate’ of Stambul, and the Hamidieh Jaddesi, crossing the broad Bab Ali Jaddesi which leads to the left to the _Railway Station_ (p. 537). Farther on we come to the wall of the Seraglio on the left, and to (10 min.) the _Sublime Porte_ (Pl. H, 6; vizierate and ministry of foreign affairs) on the right. Its central part, which contained the ministry of home affairs and the cabinet was burnt down in Feb. 1911.

The =Seraglio= or _Seraï_ (Pl. H-I, 5, 7; now officially called _Top Kapu Seraï_, ‘seraglio of the cannon-gate’), with its neglected garden-terraces and miscellaneous buildings, occupies the site of the Acropolis and oldest streets of Byzantium (p. 541) and the first of the seven hills of New Rome. Within the extensive precincts, enclosed by a pinnacled wall and defended by towers, Mohammed II. in 1468 erected a summer palace, which Suleiman the Great (p. 542) enlarged and made his residence. All the sultans resided here until Abdul Mejíd built the Dolma Bagcheh Palace (1850–5; p. 558). In 1873 the railway was carried through the gardens, past the _Granite Column of Emp. Claudius II._ (268–70 A. D.). Around the palace are grouped the old church of Irene (p. 548), several military and other new buildings, the imperial _Mint_, and the _School of Art_ founded in 1889.

From the chief entrance, the _So-uk Cheshmeh Gate_ (Pl. H, 6), we ascend to the right, past the Mint, to the first terrace. A road to the left leads thence, behind the School of Art, to the New Museum, on the right, and the Chinili Kiosque, on the left.

The =New Museum= (Pl. I, 6), opened in 1891, contains the imperial **_Collection of Antiquities_, the arrangement of which is still incomplete. Adm., see p. 539. Director, Halil Bey.

GROUND FLOOR. The first rooms, on the right and left of the entrance,
contain the sarcophagi, including the famous coffins discovered in
1887 in the so-called royal tombs of Sidon (p. 470). The two vaults,
in which the rulers of Sidon of the 6–4th cent. B. C. are supposed to
have been buried, contained 26 stone coffins, some in the Egyptian
form of a mummy, with sculptured heads, others shaped like Greek
temples. In several cases their execution is highly artistic. The
finest are in (right) Room I: *No. 48. So-called Satrap’s Coffin, of
Ionian workmanship (first half of 5th cent.); *49. Sarcophagus of the
mourning women, in marble, in the form of a temple, influenced in
style by the works of Praxiteles (4th cent.). In (left) Room II: *No.
75. Lycian sarcophagus, with lid in the form of a pointed arch,
executed under the fresh influence of the Parthenon reliefs (p. 517);
**76. Alexander sarcophagus, an Attic original (about 300 B. C.), with
traces of rich colouring; 90. Sarcophagus of Tabnit, king of Sidon,
originally that of an Egyptian general (6th cent.). Again, in Room I:
No. 1142. Tomb-stele from Nisyros (p. 490; about 500 B.C.); 45.
Tomb-stele from Pella, a fine early Greek work like the last; 31–33.
Fragments of Roman sarcophagi (Ulysses fighting against the wooers,
etc.); also leaden coffins from Beirut, Khoms (p. 412), etc. (Room II
contains also six terracotta coffins from Klazomenæ, 6th cent. B. C.).
Among the objects in the other rooms we note a large Lycian
sarcophagus from Trysa (2nd cent. B. C.); *1179. Late Roman
sarcophagus from the region of Konia, with the recumbent figures of
man and wife.

A large room is devoted solely to the art and inscriptions of the
Hittites, the dominating race on the Upper Euphrates, in Syria, and in
Asia Minor from about 1500 to 1000 B.C., who were afterwards split up
into small principalities and lost their national characteristics.
From this later period (about 9–8th cent.) date the numerous objects
from Senjerli in N. Syria (among others No. 873. Two sphinxes as a
base of a column). Other relics are from Marrash in N. Syria (840.
Lion with inscription) and from Albistan (835. Limestone pillar).

Two rooms are set apart for the Greek-Roman sculptures. Among the
chief early Greek works (6th cent. B.C.) are: No. 5bis. Reliefs from a
tombstone in the form of a pillar, with scenes of peace and war; 8,
133. Torso of Apollo and Relief of Hercules drawing his bow, both from
Thasos; 680. Tomb-stele from Dorylæum in Phrygia; *78. Head of a man,
early Ionian, from Rhodes; 32, 33. Kybele, from Kyme; 1136. Relief,
Birth of Athena, from Chalcedon.—Of the 5th cent.: No. 1189. Caryatid;
1433. Hermes Propylæos, after the famous work of Alkamenes (Roman
copy); *148. Snake’s head from the tripod in the At Meïdán (p. 549).
Among other creations of the Greek golden age (4th cent.) are: No.
1121. Statue of a youth; 114. Upper half of a stele, from Kyzikos;
1242. Relief with a portrait of Euripides; 1028. Relief of a woman
playing on the lyre, from Mysia.—Hellenistic sculptures from Pergamum
(p. 533): *764. Dancer, from a large circular monument; *1138. Marble
head (Alexander the Great?); 72. Marsyas hanging (a good copy); also
important: *709. Alexander the Great, from Magnesia on the Sipylos;
685. Colossal head of Zeus, from Troy; 9. Colossal statue of Apollo,
from Tralleis; *1423. Relief of a boatman (?), from Tralleis, in the
style of the ‘Alexandrine’ reliefs.—Of Roman origin: 31. Largest
representation of the so-called Thracian horseman, from a triumphal
arch at Saloniki.

In the room of the Byzantine antiquities we note No. 164. Statue of
the Good Shepherd (3rd cent.?); *1090. Early-Christian pulpit from
Saloniki, with the Adoration of the Magi in detached figures; 189,
190. Fragments of a column with scenes with figures (Baptism of
Christ, etc.; about 500); also interesting capitals with figures and
foliage ornamentation.

Two rooms form an Architectural Museum (Asia Minor relics).

The FIRST FLOOR is occupied by the Babylonian-Assyrian antiquities
(incl. the glazed terracotta sarcophagi from Nippur, and No. 1027.
Votive relief of king Narâm-Sin, about 3750 B.C.), the unimportant
Egyptian relics, and curiosities from Cyprus (p. 489), Himyar (region
of Yemen in S. Arabia), and Palmyra. Then collections of bronzes and
trinkets from Schliemann’s excavations at Hissarlik (p. 534), from the
Sidonian sarcophagi (p. 546), etc.; vases and terracottas from Asia
Minor (Hissarlik, Myrina, Priene), Cos (p. 490), and Rhodes; glass
vessels from Asia Minor, Cyprus, Syria, and Tripolitania; also a
collection of coins.—The N. wing contains the _Museum Library_.

The elegant =Chinili Kiosque= (Pl. I, 6; ‘fayence palace’), one of the oldest Turkish buildings in the city, was erected in 1470 by _Kemal ed-Din_ under Mohammed II., in the Persian style, and was restored in 1590. In 1908 it was converted into an *_Oriental Art Museum_. Adm., see p. 539.

The two-storied portico (ticket-office on the left) contains
tombstones, etc.—The vestibule, with its original inscribed frieze, is
adorned with well-preserved green *Fayence Tiles.

The domed hall and five side-rooms contain Arabian, Persian, and
Turkish fayence, Turkish pottery, seals (tugres), firmans, and irades
of Turkish sultans, woodwork (koran-desks, cabinets, etc.), leather
(beautiful book-bindings), and metal work; also cut gems, Arabian and
Venetian glass, mosque-lamps, embroidery, and *Persian Carpets. The
chief treasures of the collection are the *Prayer Niche from the
palace of the Seljuk sultan Alaeddin at Konia (13th cent.) and a
throne of Selim I. (p. 512).

Passing the Mint (p. 546) we next enter the outer court of the Seraglio. In the centre rises the huge _Janissaries’ Plane Tree_ (Pl. I, 6), where the janissaries (p. 550) used to meet.—To the left the _Orta Kapu_ leads to the _Seraglio Palace_ (adm., see p. 540). It contains the throne-room (Arsh Odasi) of the time of Suleiman the Great, the Library, the Imperial Treasury (hazneh han), and the superb Bagdad Kiosque (1639), etc.

Above the outer court rises, on the right, the =Church of Irene= (Pl. I, 6; dedicated to ‘divine peace’), a domed basilica built by Constantine, and restored first by Justinian after the Nika revolt (p. 541), and again in 740. After the Turkish conquest it was used as an arsenal, but is now a _Military Museum_ (adm., see p. 539).

We leave the Seraglio by the _Bab i Humayún_ (Pl. I, 6), the superb modern gate of the sultan, replacing that of Mohammed II.

In the SERAÏ MEÏDÁN (Pl. I, 6, 7; ‘Seraglio Square’), on the S.W. side of the palace-walls, rises the *_Fountain of Ahmed III._, erected in 1728, the finest sebíl in the city, with a well-preserved timber roof. Nearly opposite are the Aya Sophia and the _Ministry of Justice_ (Pl. H, 1, 7), which was the meeting-place of the new Turkish parliament in 1908–9.

The **=Aya Sóphia Mosque= (Pl. H, 7; adm., see p. 539), formerly the church of St. Sophia, 4 min. to the S. of the So-uk Cheshmeh Gate (p. 546), is the most famous edifice in the whole city. Here in 326, opposite to his palace, Constantine erected a basilica, which he dedicated to Divine Wisdom (Sophía), and which after a fire in 415 was rebuilt by Theodosius II. The church having again been destroyed during the Nika rebellion, Justinian caused the present sumptuous edifice, which was to eclipse all others in the empire, to be erected in 532–7 by _Anthemios_ of Tralleis and _Isidoros_ of Miletos.

The plan of the building is nearly square. Its axis, contrary to custom, runs to the E.S.E., in line with that of the palace. It measures 82½ by 77 yds., but if the atrium or forecourt had still existed the length would have been no less than 184 yds. The edifice with its nave and aisles presents a curious combination of an ancient Christian basilica with a dome-covered mosque. Above the nave, which is 36 yds. in breadth, the great dome, 105 ft. in diameter and 184 ft. in height, but externally inconspicuous, rises on four massive pillars. It is continued lengthwise by two half-domes, relieved by niches, the large E. central niche forming the apse. The upper story of the aisles, borne by antique columns with capitals resembling imposts, and the galleries above the inner vestibule contained the gynæceum, or women’s seats.

The Crusaders pillaged the church in 1204 (p. 542), and many of its treasures were carried off also at the Turkish conquest. The mosaics were whitewashed, the minaret at the S.E. angle was erected, and the unsightly flying buttresses were added on the E. side. To the further detriment of the general effect the successors of the conqueror built the other three minarets, the mausoleums, schools, and outbuildings. A thorough restoration was undertaken by _Fossati_, an Italian architect, in 1847, when the outside was painted yellow with red stripes.

The entrance for visitors is in the N. side-street, by a door to the
left of the N.W. minaret. A few steps descend to the INNER VESTIBULE
(eso-narthex), from which five doors open on the outer vestibule
(exo-narthex) and nine portals lead into the interior. At the S. end
of the inner vestibule, opposite the N. entrance, is a Byzantine
*Bronze Door (9th cent.), with part of the original panels.

The northmost portal admits us to the *INTERIOR, in which the immense
central dome, in contrast to St. Peter’s at Rome, dominates the entire
nave. The marble pavement is partly destroyed and partly covered with
carpets and mats spread obliquely in the direction of Mecca (S.E.).
The mihrâb or prayer-recess has been placed, for the same reason, a
little to the S. of the axis of the apse. Beside the pillars of the
apse are, on the right, the mimbar, or Friday pulpit, and on the left
the octagonal grated gallery of the sultan, resting on eight antique
columns. The nave contains several open galleries or tribunes for
prayer-recitals. The Koran niche in the S. aisle also is worth seeing.
(Visitors should be careful not to touch anything.)

During the nights of Ramadan (p. 539) visitors are admitted only to
the galleries, which the sacristan will show at other times.

On the S. side of the mosque, adjoining the Aya Sophia Meïdán, rise
five TÜRBEHS, or burial-chapels of sultans. The southmost, once the
baptistery of the church, dates perhaps from Justinian’s reign.

The AYA SÓPHIA MEÏDÁN (Pl. H, 7), a busy square planted with trees, on the S. side of the mosque, was the ancient _Augusteion_ (or Agorá), the greatest centre of traffic in New Rome, whence the triumphal road led to the Golden Gate (p. 554). Down to the Turkish conquest it was adorned with a mounted statue of Justinian. Adjoining it on the S.W. lies the AT MEÏDÁN (Pl. H, 7; ‘horse square’), 330 yds. long, partly occupying the site of a _Hippodrome_ begun by Sept. Severus (p. 541) and completed by Constantine. From these two squares, and from the Seraï Meïdán (p. 548), the Roman and Byzantine imperial palaces, with their dependencies and several churches, extended to the S.E. to the town-wall on the Sea of Marmora.

At the N. angle of At Meïdán, where Rue Divan Yolou (p. 550) diverges, lies a small _Public Garden_. Farther on, to the S.W., passing a _Street Fountain_ presented by Emp. William II. in 1898, we come to three ancient monuments which still occupy their old places on the spina of the Hippodrome (comp. p. 348). One is the _Obelisk of Theodosius I._, dating from the time of Thutmosis III. (p. 456; brought from Heliopolis), with Roman reliefs, on the pedestal, of the imperial family viewing the races from the court-stand of the Hippodrome. The second is the bronze *_Snake Column_, once the central support of a huge tripod which the Greeks erected as a votive offering at Delphi after the victory of Platæa (p. 506). The third is the so-called _Colossus_, an obelisk of unknown origin.

No less conspicuous than the Aya Sophia is the *=Mosque of Ahmed I.= (Pl. H, 7), on the S.E. side of At Meïdán. It was built by the young sultan of that name in 1608–14 as the second-largest mosque in the city, and is the only one besides the Kaaba at Mecca that has six minarets. The large outer court, planted with trees and often used as a market-place, is separated from At Meïdán by a broken-down wall. The lofty chief portal, with its stalactite niche and its fine bronze gate, leads into a forecourt flanked with domed colonnades where we notice the pretty stalactite capitals. In the centre rises a superb hexagonal marble fountain with a railing.

The interior of the mosque (79 by 70 yds.), in the style of the Mehmedieh (p. 553), resembles the Shahzadeh mosque (p. 552) in the disposition of its four half-domes. The great central dome, 73 ft. in diameter, rests on four clumsy round pillars, and around it runs a low gallery with depressed keel-arches. The walls are lined with white marble below and with beautiful fayence tiles from Nikæa above.

To the S.W. of At Meïdán is the _Janissaries’ Museum_ (Pl. G, H, 7;
adm., see p. 539), in which are exhibited wax-figures wearing the
ancient costumes of Turkish dignitaries and the uniforms of the
Janissaries, or old body-guard (1328–1826).

To the S. of the Museum, close to the railway, rises the *=Küchük Aya
Sóphia= (Pl. H, 7, 8), or ‘little’ mosque of Aya Sophia, a kind of
prelude to the ‘great’, now containing a military museum. It was built
under Justinian in 528, at the same time as San Vitale at Ravenna, as
a church of _SS. Sergius and Bacchus_. The building is nearly square,
with semicircular niches at the angles, and encloses an octagonal
interior, between the eight corner-columns of which are four
semicircular niches and four straight rows of columns. The junction of
the walls with the dome was masked, as later in the Sophia Church, by
curved triangular spandrels or pendentives.

Beyond the public garden (p. 549) we enter the RUE DIVAN YOLOU (tramway No. 3, p. 538). At the end of it, on the right, is a railed-in burial-ground containing the handsome _Türbeh of Mahmud II._ (d. 1839) and his son Abdul Aziz (sultan in 1861–76). Entrance to the right, in Rue Mahmoudié.

In the main street, now called Sedefdjilar Yolou, we next come to the second hill of New Rome (p. 541), crowned with the so-called =Burnt Column= (Pl. G, 6; Turk. _Chemberli Tash_, ‘stone with the hoop’). This great column of porphyry was erected by Constantine on the ancient ‘triumphal way’, to mark the centre of his forum, and bore his statue in bronze down to 1105. It was restored in 1909. The street then leads past the Kalpakjilar Kapu (on the right), the S. gate of the Great Bazaar (p. 551), to the Bayazid Mosque (p. 551).

From the Burnt Column the Rue Nouri Osmanié leads to the N. to the white marble _Mosque of Nuri Osmanieh_ (Pl. G, 6), a bold dome-roofed edifice copied from the Selim Mosque (p. 553), but with a semicircular forecourt.

Adjacent on the W. is the *=Great Bazaar= (Pl. G, 6; Turk. _Büyük Charshi_, ‘great market’), one of the sights of Constantinople. It lies in a depression between the Nuri Osmanieh Mosque and the Serasker Square (see below) and forms a distinct quarter of the city, enclosed by gates. As in the sûks (p. 335) the crafts mostly have their own streets or districts. Most of the buildings have been re-erected since the earthquake of 1894. To the early 17th cent. belongs the still extant castellated _Valideh Han_ (see below); of the early 18th cent. are the _Bezestán_ (the main central building, founded in the 10th cent.) and the _Sandal Bezestán_. Besides genuine Oriental wares many European goods also are sold here.

The _Nuri Osmanieh Kapu_, on the W. side of the outer court of the
mosque, opens on to the KALPAKJILAR BASHI JADDESÍ, the main
thoroughfare on the S. side of the Bazaar. Immediately on the right is
the _Sandal Bezestán_, once the silk-bazaar, now a warehouse (usually
closed).

The street on the N. side (Restaurant Tokatlian, see p. 537) leads to
the W. after a few paces to the =Bezestán= (Pl. Bez.; G, 6), where
artistic old weapons, gold and silver wares, inlaid furniture, etc.
are displayed. In the street on the E. side are sold jewels and
trinkets; on the N. side cloth, Oriental antiquities, and books; on
the W. side Turkish women’s apparel and embroidery; on the S. side
leather-work, etc.

From the W. gate of the Bezestán we pass through the Bezestán Jaddesí,
with its clothes-shops, to the OUSOUN TCHARCHI, the main street
ascending from the Rustem Pasha Mosque (p. 545) to the S. gate
(Kalpakjilar Kapu, p. 550). Going straight on we may ascend through
the curved Fesjiler Jaddesi, the fez-market, to the BIT BAZAR JADDESI,
a street running to the N. and S., the entrance to the (left)
_Second-hand Market_ (Bat Bazar, jestingly called ‘bit bazar’ or
louse-market). In the other direction, a few paces to the N., is the
Hakkaklar Sokak, with the stalls of the seal-engravers, booksellers,
etc., leading to the Bayazid Mosque.

Those who intend to return from the Great Bazaar direct to the New
Bridge (p. 545) may visit also the _Valideh Han_ (Pl. G, 5, 6; see
above), the seat of the Persian traders, situated in the Chakmakjilar
Yokussu, diverging to the E. from the Ousoun Tcharchi.

On the third hill of the city, the site of the forum of Theodosius I., rise the Bayazid Mosque and the Seraskerat in its large court.

The *=Mosque of Bayazid= (Pl. G, 6) was erected in 1489–97 by the Albanian _Kheireddin_, under sultan Bayazid, son of Mohammed II., the conqueror. The handsome portals of the forecourt recall Seljuk prototypes. The beautiful forecourt, enlivened ever since the time of the founder by countless pigeons, has pointed arcades with elegant domes. In the centre is an octagonal fountain. The interior, tastelessly painted in the Turkish rococo style in the 18th cent., is a simplified imitation of the Aya Sophia.

To the N. of the mosque the _Serasker Kapu_, the modern S. gateway, leads into the court, now a drilling-ground, of the _Seraskerat_ (Pl. F, G, 5; or ministry of war). Here once stood the _Eski-Seraï_, the oldest palace of the sultans (comp. p. 546). The *=Serasker Tower= (closed on Frid.; fee 3–5 pias.), about 200 ft. high, built by Mahmud II. (d. 1839) of white marble from the island of Marmara (p. 535), affords a magnificent view of the city.

Behind the barracks on the N. side of the Seraskerat, or by the Serasker Jaddesi to the right, we descend to the terrace of the Suleiman Mosque, which is surrounded by schools, baths, and the _Residence of the Sheikh ul-Islam_.

The **=Mosque of Suleiman the Great= (Turk. _Suleïmanieh_; Pl. F, G, 5), erected in 1550–66 by the Albanian _Sinán_ (Mimar Sinán Agha), on the model of the Aya Sophia and the Bayazid Mosque, is one of the two master-works of this most famous of Turkish architects (the other being the Selim mosque at Adrianople). The superb chief portal on the N.W. side is three stories in height. At the angles of the forecourt (63 by 49½ yds.) rise four minarets of unequal height. The exterior of the mosque is embellished with two arcades; the smaller domes are charmingly grouped round the great dome; the latter, only 85 ft. in diameter, is loftier than that of Aya Sophia.

Notwithstanding the striped decoration with which it was marred at the time of the restoration under Abdul Aziz (p. 550), the interior surpasses all the other mosques of Constantinople in harmony of structure, in picturesqueness of perspective, and in magnificence of ornamentation, but is unfortunately badly lighted. Between the four pillars of the dome, on each side, are two monolith columns, 29 ft. high, with stalactite capitals, supporting the upper stories of the aisles. The *Mihrâb Wall is enriched with beautiful fayence tiles and with stained glass by _Serkosh Ibrahim_.

In the burial-ground behind the mosque rise the handsome _Türbehs of Suleiman_ (fee 5 pias.) and his favourite wife _Roxolana_.

From the outer court of the mosque, with its fine old cypresses and
plane-trees, we may descend to the E. to Rustem Pasha’s Mosque (p.
545) and the New Bridge (p. 545); or we may go to the N.W. to the _Old
Bridge_ (Pl. F, G, 4; p. 555; toll 10 paras) and the Rue Iskander (p.
543).

From the W. gate of the Seraskerat, or from the W. angle of the outer court of the Suleiman mosque, we may soon reach the two-storied =Aqueduct of Valens= (Pl. F, E, 6, 5), dating from the reign of that emperor (368 A. D.) but much restored. It bridges the space between the fourth and third hills of the city.

On the S. side of the aqueduct, near the scene of the great fire of 1908, rises the _Shahzadeh Mosque_ (Pl. E, F, 5; ‘prince’s mosque’), an early work of Sinán (see above), erected by Suleiman in 1543–7 in memory of his son Mohammed. The plan is similar to that of the Mehmedieh (see below). It is charmingly fitted up in the interior. In the two türbehs repose the princes Mohammed and Jíhangir and the princess Mihrimah. As a rule the muezzin permits visitors to ascend one of the minarets for a small gratuity.

From this mosque the Rue Chahsadé Bachi ascends to the N.W. to the =Mosque of Mohammed II.= (Pl. D, E, 4; _Mehmedieh_ or _Fatih Jami_; comp. p. 542), the holiest in Constantinople after that of Eyúb (p. 555). It was built by the Greek _Christodulos_ in 1463–9 on the fourth hill of the city, on the site and with the materials of the _Apostles’ Church_. This church, founded by Constantine, had been restored by Justinian and was famous as the burial-place of the emperors.

The outer court, planted with cypresses, on the N.W. side of which a busy market is held, is surrounded, as in the Byzantine age, by a great many miscellaneous buildings. The plan of the mosque is probably the same as that of the Apostles’ Church. The forecourt is commanded by two minarets. The interior, in the form of a Greek cross, has four half-domes in the two axes adjoining the central dome, four smaller corner-domes, and three galleries. The whole building was modernized after the earthquake of 1767.

The first _Türbeh_ behind the mosque is that of ‘the Conqueror’.

From the N.W. corner of the outer court the Sultan Mehmed and Sultan
Selim streets lead to the N. to the _Mosque of Selim I._ (Pl. E, 3;
Turk. _Selimieh_) on the fifth city-hill, erected by Suleiman the
Great in 1520–6 in memory of his warlike father Selim I. (p. 542).
This is the simplest of all the sultans’ mosques. The outer walls are
roofed with a single semicircular dome.

To the S. of Mehmedieh, between the fourth city-hill and the _Lykos
Valley_, among the ruins caused by a fire, rises _Marcian’s Column_
(Pl. D, E, 5; Turk. Kiz Tash, maiden’s stone), erected in honour of
that emperor (450–7).

In the Lykos Valley, to the S.W. of Marcian’s Column, once lay the
_Barracks of the Janissaries_ (p. 550), who were massacred in the Et
Meïdán here (Pl. D, 5; ‘place of flesh’) after a revolt in 1826.—In
the _Ak Seraï_ quarter (Pl. D, E, 6), on the ancient triumphal way (p.
550), lay the Roman _Forum Boarium_ (cattle-market). The road ascended
thence to the seventh city-hill. Here, in the quarter now called
_Avret Bazar_, is still seen the pedestal of the marble _Column of
Arcadius_ (Pl. D, 7; Turk. Avret Tash, women’s stone), the sole
surviving relic of the forum of Arcadius.

From the Mehmedieh a main street (carr. 5 pias.) leads direct in ¼ hr., to the N.W., to the Edirneh Kapu (see below).

Beside the city-wall, near Rue Edirné Kapou, is the sixth and highest city-hill, on which rises the _Mihrimah Mosque_ (Pl. C, 3), built in 1556 by Sinán (p. 552) for the princess Mihrimah (p. 545), on the site of the Byzantine monastery of St. George, and restored in 1910.—From the Greek _Church of St. George_ we walk about 250 paces to the N.E., and then descend to the right, near the city-wall, to visit the—

=Kahrieh Mosque= (Pl. C, 2), once the church of the monastery of _Chora_ (‘in the country’), which probably existed before the time of Theodosius II. It was restored in the 11th cent. and enlarged in the 14th, and contains famous Byzantine *Mosaics (sacristan lives near).

We now turn our steps to the ruinous _Edirneh Kapu_ (Pl. C, 2; Adrianople Gate), the gate of Charisius or cemetery-gate (Porta Polyandriu) of the Byzantines.

Outside the gate, where stretches the largest _Moslem Cemetery_ of Stambul, we obtain an excellent view of the old *=Land-Wall= of the city, over 4 M. in length. The chief part of it is the _Theodosian Wall_ (p. 541), extending from the Sea of Marmora to the Tekfur Seraï (see below). This was originally a single wall, defended by towers, but after an earthquake in 447 it was doubled, the two walls being 66 yds. apart and, from the bottom of the moat, 100 ft. high.

The S. part of the land-wall may be visited by carriage (one-horse 10,
two-horse 10 or 15 pias.; bargaining necessary) from the Edirneh Kapu.
We drive past _Top Kapu_ (Pl. A, 4; ‘cannon-gate’), once the gate of
St. Romanos, famed in the siege of 1453, to Yedi Kuleh railway-station
(Pl. A, B, 9). We may return thence to the town by local train (about
every ½ hr.), or from the Yedi Kuleh Gate by tramway (No. 4; change at
Ak Seraï, p. 553), or from Psamatia Kapu (Pl. B, 8) by local steamer
(p. 538).

Near the S. end of the wall rises the castle of =Yedi Kuleh= (Pl. A,
9; ‘seven towers’; adm. except Sun. 2½ pias.; small fee to
lantern-bearer), rebuilt by Mohammed II., within which is the
dilapidated _Porta Aurea_ (‘golden gate’), once the triumphal gate of
the Byzantine emperors.—On the Sea of Marmora, at the point where the
land-wall joined the _Marmora Sea Wall_, rises the octagonal _Mermer
Kuleh_ (Pl. A, 9; ‘marble tower’), the sole relic of a castle of the
time of Emp. Basil II. (976–1025).

To the N.E. of the Edirneh Kapu, beyond the _Greek Cemetery_ (Pl. C, 2), the Theodosian city-wall is joined by the single but stronger _Wall of the Blachernae Quarter_ (‘marsh-land quarter’). This wall served for the defence of the famous St. Mary’s Church of the empress Pulcheria (ca. 450), and for that of the Blachernæ Palace, founded at the end of the 5th cent., which in the 12th cent. became the imperial residence instead of the older palaces in the Augusteion (p. 549). The wall dates partly from the reigns of Emp. Heraklios (610–41), Leo V. (813–20), and Manuel Comnenus (1143–80), but was largely rebuilt in the 14th and 15th centuries.

The ruined Byzantine palace rising above the town-wall near the small _Kerkoporta_ (Pl. C, 2), the so-called _Tekfur Seraï_ (‘emperor’s palace’), was probably founded by Constantine VII. Porphyrogenetos (912–59). Of the _Blachernae Palace_ itself the foundations are still traceable between the _Egri Kapu_ (Pl. C, 1; once Porta Kaligaria) and the Aivas Effendi Mosque. To the old terrace of the palace belonged the massive _Towers of Isaak Angelos_ and _Anemas_ (Pl. C, 1).

On the N. side the land-walls end with the picturesque castle of _Brachionon_ or _Pentapyrgion_, answering to the Yedi Kuleh on the S. side. It lies between the inner and the site of the outer Blachernæ gate. Near it are buried the Arabs who fell in 678 (p. 541).

From the _Aivan Seraï Kapu_ (Pl. D, 1), which belongs to the old _Sea Wall on the Golden Horn_ (p. 541), a broad road to the left (N.W.) leads through the suburb of _Ortakjilar_ (Pl. B, C, 1) to (¾ M.) Eyúb (p. 555). Straight on, we soon reach the Aivan Seraï pier (p. 555).

c. The Golden Horn.

By CAÏQUE (p. 538) from the New Bridge to Eyúb about 1 hr., to the
Sweet Waters 1½–2 hrs. (there and back 20–25 pias.). The row back is
particularly fine towards sunset.—STEAMBOAT (p. 538) to Eyúb in ¾ hr.,
thence to the Sweet Waters 20 min.

The =Golden Horn=, already named _Chrysokeras_ by the Greeks, an arm of the sea 4½ M. long and at the widest point ½ M. across, probably a submerged side-valley of the Bosporus, is one of the finest natural harbours in the world. In the Byzantine period it was closed for defensive purposes by a chain. It consists of the _Outer Commercial Harbour_ (Pl. H, I, 4, 5), with the Galata Quay (p. 543) and the new quays on the Stambul side, the _Inner Commercial Harbour_ (Pl. G, H, 4), between the two bridges, and the _Naval Harbour_ (Pl. E-G, 2, 3).

The voyager on the Golden Horn is chiefly struck with the busy harbour scenes and the picturesque appearance of the crowded Oriental quarters rising from the banks. Starting from the New Bridge (Pl. H, 4) the steamer crosses the inner commercial harbour to the pier of _Yemish Iskelesí_ (Pl. G, 4) at Stambul, at the foot of the terrace of the Suleiman Mosque, and then passes under the Old Bridge (Pl. F, G, 4; p. 552) into the naval harbour. On the Stambul side it first calls at the piers of _Jubali Kapu_ and _Aya Kapu_ (Pl. F, 3), the latter lying below Selim’s Mosque (p. 553).

Next, on the same side, are the piers of _Phanar_ (Pl. E, 2), the Greek quarter, where a terrible massacre took place in 1821, and _Balat_ (Pl. D, 2), the largest Jewish quarter.

On the opposite bank, from the Old Bridge onwards, lie the dockyard buildings. On the bay of _Kasím Pasha_ (calling-place of some of the steamboats) is the _Ministry of Marine_ (Divan Haneh; Pl. G, 2, 3), with its surrounding barracks, workshops, and docks. In front of it are anchored men-of-war and guard-ships.

The steamer next touches at _Ters Haneh_ (Pl. E, 2), on the E. bank, at the end of the dockyard, and at the Jewish quarter of _Haskiöi_ (Has Keuï; Pl. E, 1); then, on the W. bank, at _Aivan Seraï_ (Pl. D, 1; p. 554), where we have a fine view of the N.E. end of the land-walls and the beginning of the sea-wall on the Golden Horn; then, on the E. bank, at _Kalijeh Oglu_, and on the W. bank at _Defterdar Iskelesí_ (Pl. C, 1) and _Eyúb_ (see inset plans in Plan of City).

In the suburb of *=Eyúb=, a few minutes’ walk from the pier, is the famous _Mosque of Eyúb_, where the ceremony of girding each new sultan with the sword takes place. It was built of white marble by Mohammed II., the Conqueror, in 1459, adjacent to the türbeh of Abu Eyúb Ensari, the legendary standard-bearer of the prophet, whose tomb here was revealed in a vision a few days after the conquest. The spot is so revered by the Moslems that until now no Christian dared set foot even in the outer court. Since the establishment of the new Turkish government, however, visitors may enter the deeply impressive court and even the mosque itself, but they should be careful not to remain standing between the railings in the centre of the court and the gilded windows on the wall-side.

From the mosque, up the hill-side to the N.E., extends the picturesque _Cemetery_, with its venerable cypresses. A path ascends from the mosque, past a monastery (_Tekkeh_) of the dancing dervishes (p. 543), to the top, where we have a splendid *View of both banks of the Golden Horn.

From Eyúb a smaller local steamer plies through the _Stambul Liman_,
the shallow N.W. arm of the Golden Horn, 1¼ M. long, to _Kiathaneh_,
or _Kiahat Haneh_; this trip, on Fridays or Sundays in spring, affords
an interesting picture of Turkish life. At Kiathaneh two streams fall
into the Golden Horn, the so-called =Sweet Waters of Europe= (the
Asiatic waters, see p. 558), or _Eaux Douces_. The eastmost is the
_Kiathaneh Suyu_, in the valley of which, about 1¼ M. up, is a château
of the sultan, the most popular holiday resort of the citizens of
Constantinople. In the meadows, under shady trees, are erected huts
and arbours, where music and amusements of all kinds are provided. The
Moslems enjoy themselves sedately here on Fridays; the Christians come
on Sundays; hither too the people of fashion ride or drive. Shortly
before sunset a whole flotilla of boats on the Golden Horn returns
home to the city.

d. Scutari.

STEAM FERRY BOATS from the _New Bridge_ (see p. 538) and _Beshiktash_
to Scutari. Those from the New Bridge to the minor stations _Salajak_,
near the Leander tower, and _Harem-Iskelesí_, below the Selimieh
Barracks (p. 536), are less frequent and are seldom used by
strangers.—CARRIAGES have the same tariff as in the city (p. 538).
Drive from the pier to the Chamlija Spring and back viâ the Great
Cemetery (about 2½ hrs.) 1½ mejidiehs (30 pias.).—HORSE to the
Bulgurlu about 1 mej.

The steamer leaves the Seraglio Point on the right and steers to the E. to (¼ hr.) the chief landing-place at Scutari, which lies on the Asiatic shore, in a bay to the N. of the promontory. To the right, off the end of the promontory, is a flat islet on which rises the so-called _Leander’s Tower_ (by the Turks named _Kiz Kulesí_, _i.e._ maiden’s tower, from the legend that a sultan’s daughter was once kept here), with a signalling station and lights.

=Scutari= (no European inns), Turk. _Üsküdar_, the ancient _Chrysopolis_, the harbour of Chalcedon (p. 536), now a large suburb of Constantinople, contains 90,000 inhab., comparatively few of whom are Armenians and Greeks. Its fine old mosques, its crooked streets, and its small timber houses give it a more Oriental character than Stambul. Until a century ago Scutari was the terminus of the caravan-routes from Asia Minor, by which the treasures of the East were brought to Constantinople. It is still the starting-point of the sacred annual Mecca caravan.

From the pier we follow the broad main street past the _Büyük Jami_ (‘Great Mosque’; 1547), on the left, and the _Yeni Valideh Jami_ (1707–10), on the right, beyond which a road to the right diverges to the Dervishes’ Monastery and the Great Cemetery.

The street, inclining to the left, next leads to the quarters of =Yeni Mahalleh=, with an Armenian cemetery, and =Baglar Bashi=; then, past villas, to the village of =Bulgurlukiöi=. Before the village is reached a road to the left leads to (2 M. from the pier) the =Chamlija Spring=, shaded by great plane-trees, a favourite Friday and Sunday resort like the Sweet Waters (p. 556).

We may thence ascend (to the N., ¼ hr.) the =Great Bulgurlu= or _Büyük Chamlija_ (879 ft.; small café, bargaining necessary), which, in the forenoon especially, affords a superb *View of Constantinople, the Bosporus, and the Sea of Marmora.

On the way back we turn to the left, skirting the Armenian cemetery, to visit the *_Great Cemetery_ (Büyük Mezaristán), the largest Moslem burial-ground in the East. The lower road through it leads to the N. to the _Monastery of the Howling Dervishes_ (Rufaï Tekkeh; no admittance).

To the S. of the Great Cemetery lies _Haidar Pasha_ (p. 536), with a large _Military Hospital_, where Florence Nightingale (1820–1910) first devoted herself to her philanthropic work. Adjoining the Hospital is the _British Cemetery_, containing a tall granite Obelisk in memory of the British who fell in the Crimean war.

e. The Bosporus.

LOCAL STEAMERS (p. 538), with 17 stations on the European side and 12
on the Asiatic, never all touched at on the same voyage. To _Rumeli
Kavak_, the northmost station on the W. shore, in 2 hrs., 5 (in summer
6) steamers only. From any station it is easy to ferry to the opposite
shore (5–10 pias.).

The Thracian *=Bosporus= (‘ox-ford’, from the Greek myth that Io swam in the shape of a cow from Asia to Europe), Turk. Kara _Denis Boghaz_ or _Stambul Boghaz_ (Black Sea or Stambul Straits), which, like the Dardanelles (p. 534), was formed by the subsidence of a river-valley in the tertiary period (comp. p. xxxiv), connects the Sea of Marmora with the Black Sea. Length 20 M., breadth about 2 M., average depth 89 ft. (greatest about 395 ft.). A surface-stream, quickened by the prevailing N.E. winds, and consisting of the fresher water of the Black Sea, fed by its copious rivers, constantly pours through the straits towards the Mediterranean, while the saltier and heavier water of the latter flows in the opposite direction in a strong under-current into the Black Sea. The steep coast-hills of the N. part, as far as Rumeli Kavak, consist of eruptive rock, basalt, dolerite, and trachyte; in the S. part the prevailing formations are Devonian, clay-slate, greywacke, quarzite, and limestone. The peninsula of Stambul is of the miocene formation.

A trip on the Bosporus affords a highly picturesque and varied panorama of the scenery on its banks, and on the way back we suddenly obtain a striking view of the great city and its suburbs. The more important places only are named below. (L. signifies landing-place or pier.)