Chapter VI: Algeria (4)

Boghari is the starting-point of the important caravan-route to the
Sahara oases of _Laghouat_ and _Ghardaïa_. Diligence every other day
at 3 a.m. vîa Aïn-Oussara and Djelfa (night-station) to Laghouat in 58
hrs. (also motor-omnibus sometimes); most of the stopping-places have
very fair inns or caravanserais (R. usually 2, déj. or D. 2½ fr.). 13
M. _Boughzoul_ or _Bou-Guezoul_ (2100 ft.); 32½ M. =Aïn-Oussara= (2330
ft.); 57 M. _Guelt es-Stel_ (all three in the Hauts-Plateaux, p. 169);
85 M. _Zmila_ (good drinking-water); 96 M. =Djelfa= (3803 ft.; Hôt. de
France, quite good; Hôt. du Roulage; pop. 2200), in the midst of the
Sahara Atlas. This little town, situated in the valley of the _Oued
Djelfa_ or _Melah_, where dolmens abound, and at the junction of our
road with the caravan-route to Bou-Saâda (p. 270), is the capital of
the nomad tribe of the _Ouled Naïl_, whose daughters usually lead an
evil life in the S. Algerian towns before marriage. (Their valuable
trinkets are noticeable.) 118 M. _Aïn-el-Ibel_ (3412 ft.); 137 M.
_Sidi-Maklouf_ (3019 ft.).—177½ M. =Laghouat= (2461 ft.; Hôt. Storace,
good; Hôt. Mendane; pop. 5700, incl 5000 Mohammedans and 400 Jews).
This picturesque little town, on the S. slope of the Sahara Atlas,
with its military headquarters and brisk trade, lies on the _Oued Mzi_
(called Oued Djedi lower down; p. 284), amidst the fruit-trees of a
palm-oasis. It has a pretty Jardin Public. The native quarters present
a curious and lively scene.

The journey from Laghouat to (130½ M.) Ghardaïa by the rough Sahara
road is very fatiguing. (Diligence every second day, in winter at 4
a.m., in summer at 5 p.m., in 30 hrs.; fare 30 or 25 fr.;
motor-omnibus projected.) The chief stages are: 220½ M. (from Boghari)
_Tilghemt_ or _Tilrempt_ (quarters), in an oasis of terebinths (p.
202); 265 M. _Berrian_ (1936 ft.), a little town of 3800 inhab., the
northmost settlement of the Mozabites (17th cent.), lying on the
chalky limestone plateau of the _Chebka_, with a palm-oasis on the
_Oued Bir_.

308 M. (from Boghari; 130½ from Laghouat) =Ghardaïa= (1805 ft.; Hôt.
du Sud; pop. 8200, incl. 5400 Mozabites), a free market, is one of the
most picturesque and interesting places in the Sahara. Situated on the
_Oued Mzab_, in a beautiful oasis, with 64,000 palms, the town is
enclosed by a lofty wall defended with towers, and is dominated by the
great minaret of the chief mosque. It holds high market on Fridays,
and has two places of amusement (for Arabian music and dances).
Ghardaïa is the headquarters of the _Mzab_, a small republic of towns
which was founded in the 11th cent. by fugitive Berber Ibadites (p.
208) after the destruction of Tiaret, was presided over by a priestly
caste (tholbas), and in 1852 became a protectorate of the French who
annexed it in 1882. The _Mozabites_ or _Mzabites_, who hold aloof from
the other Mohammedans, are often met with as artisans and small
traders in the towns of the Tell Atlas and in the oases of the E.
Sahara, but in their old age they always return to their original
home. Their manners and customs are still somewhat mediæval; their
mosques with minarets in the form of blunted pyramids, their curious
cemeteries and tombs with votive offerings, and their schools will be
found interesting. Their language is a Berber dialect akin to those of
the Kabyles (p. 252) and the Tuâreg, but Arabic and French also are
generally spoken.

Among places worth seeing near Ghardaïa are (¾ M.) _Mélika_, with its
black inhabitants and large cemeteries, and (1¼ M.) _Beni-Isguen_, a
wealthy place of 5400 inhab., the sacred town of the Mozabite league,
from which Arabs and Jews are excluded, with a massive town-wall,
clean streets (smoking forbidden), and a loftily situated castle. The
oldest town of the league is _El-Ateuf_, founded in 1012, with 2000
inhab., 5½ M. to the E. of Ghardaïa, on the caravan-route to (55½ M.)
the Mozabite colony of _Guerrara_. Other caravan-routes lead from
Ghardaïa to the S.W. viâ (166 M.) _El-Goléa_ (1280 ft.), with its
small oasis, to _In Salah_ and the _Tuat Oases_, and to the S.E. to
(112 M.) _Ouargla_ (p. 285).

Beyond Blida the train, running to the N.E., through orange-groves and fields of vegetables, again descends to the Mitidja. 234 M. _Beni-Mered_ (459 ft.), with fertile gardens.

239 M. =Boufarik= (164 ft.; Hôt. Benoît, Boul. National; Hôt. Nemoz, Place Mazagran, D. 2 fr., quite good; Hôt. de la Gare, humble; omn. to the Place Mazagran; pop. 6000), once a fever-stricken village of peasants, is now the centre of trade for the produce of the Mitidja. Around it are admirably irrigated vineyards and orchards (oranges, mandarins, etc.), sheltered from the prevailing winds by planes, thujas (arbor vitæ), or cypresses. Near it are factories of perfume and immense wine-cellars. To the W. of the town is the large _Marché Arabe_ (cattle-market; Monday), 12 min. from the Place Mazagran, or reached by a road direct from the station.

On the right, farther on, we observe the hill-ranges of _Rovigo_ and _L’Arba_ (pp. 248, 247) and the _Jebel Bou-Zegza_ (p. 249). Beyond (245½ M.) _Birtouta-Chebli_ we near the low spurs of the _Sahel_ (p. 221). 252½ M. _Gué-de-Constantine_, in the plain of the brook _Harrach_ (p. 247), where the eucalyptus abounds.

254½ M. _Maison-Carrée_ (p. 247), junction of the lines to Tizi-Ouzou (R. 38), Bougie (R. 37), Constantine (R. 43), and Biskra (R. 44), and also of the tramways to Aïn-Taya and Rovigo (p. 219).

The train turns to the N.W. and reaches the shore. High up on the left lies _Kouba_ (p. 233). 257½ M. _Hussein-Dey_, see p. 233.

Skirting the _Jardin d’Essai_, on the left (p. 232), we now sight Algiers. Beyond the S.E. suburbs of _Le Hamma_, _Belcourt_, and _Mustapha-Inférieur_ (p. 232), we come to the minor station of (260½ M.) _Agha_ and then to the (262½ M.) main station of _Algiers_.

34. Algiers.

ARRIVAL BY SEA. The French steamboat lines (RR. 20, 22) have their own
piers. The fare for landing by boat from other steamers is 30 c.
(trunk 20 c.; small articles free). The tariff of the porters
(portefaix-commissionnaires, largely natives, mostly exorbitant) to
the lower part of the old town is 25 c. for a trunk of 25 kilos (55
lbs.), 50 c. up to 50 kilos, and 1 fr. up to 100 kilos; for porterage
to the custom-house (Douane; where baggage is not cleared on Sun. or
festivals) 25–50 c., according to bargain. The numbered porters of the
steamboat companies had better be employed; or the matter may be
entrusted to the hotel-agents. The services of guides, interpreters,
and the like should be declined.

=Railway Stations.= 1. _Chief Station_ (Gare; Pl. C, 3), Quai Sud,
below the Rampes Magenta (p. 223) and Boul. Carnot, 5–15 min. from the
hotels in the town, ¾–1 hr. from those at Mustapha-Supérieur: station
for all the hotel-omnibuses (no tramway; cabs, see p. 218).—2. _Gare
de l’Agha_ (Pl. C, 5, 6; also goods-station), Rue Sadi-Carnot, at
Agha-Inférieur (p. 232), a subordinate station for the S. quarters of
the town.—Town-offices of the railways, Boul. Carnot 2 and at the
Agence Lubin (p. 219).

=Hotels= (comp. p. 174; in Feb. and March rooms should be ordered in
advance). In the _Villa Quarter_ (Mustapha-Supérieur and Quartier
d’lsly; mostly closed in summer), suitable for some stay, clientèle
largely English and American: *HÔT. CONTINENTAL (Pl. c; A, 6), Chemin
du Télemly and Boul. Bon-Accueil (entered also from the Station
Sanitaire, p. 228), on a high site, with fine views and garden, R.
5–20, B. 1½, déj. 4–5, D. 6–8, pens. from 13, omn. 3 fr.; *HÔT. ST.
GEORGE (Pl. a; A, 8), Rue Michelet, with beautiful grounds, R. 5–15,
B. 1½, déj. 4–4½, D. 6–7, pens. 13–25, omn. 3 fr.; ALEXANDRA (Hôt.
Kirsch; Pl. b, A 8), same street, with garden and small terrace, R.
4–18, B. 2, déj. 3½–4½, D. 5–6, pens. 12–25, omn. 3 fr., good cuisine;
these three are of the first class.—HÔT. ORIENTAL (Pl. f; A, 6), Boul.
Bon-Accueil (entrance from Station Sanitaire), with garden, R. 5–10,
B. 1¼, déj. 3, D. 4, pens. from 9 fr., good cuisine; GRAND-HÔTEL (Pl.
g; A, 7), above Rue Michelet, with fine grounds, pens. 9–12 fr.; HÔT.
BEAU-SÉJOUR (Pl. e; A, 6), Rue Michelet, below the Museum Terrace (p.
228), R. 3–8, B. 1, déj. or D. 3, pens. 8–10, omn. 2½ fr., open
throughout the year; PENS. VILLA OLIVAGE, beyond the Bois de Boulogne
(p. 230), good; PENS. VICTORIA, Rue Michelet, near the Colonne Voirol.

In the _Town_, nearer the sights, more convenient for excursions:
*HÔT. EXCELSIOR (Pl. h; C, 4, 5), Boul. Laferrière, 8 min. from the
Gare de l’Agha, well fitted up, with restaurant, R. 1–30, B. 1¼, déj.
3½, D. 5, board 8, omn. (also from the Agha station) 1 fr.; *HÔT. DE
L’OASIS (Pl. k; C, 3), Rue du Laurier 2 and Boul. de la République 9,
with fine views, restaurant, and American bar, R. 3–18, B. 1½, pens.
from 10, omn. 1¼ fr.; HÔT. DE LA REGENCE (Pl. 1; C, 2), Place du
Gouvernement 3, R. 4–10, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 4½, pens. 12–20, omn. 1½
fr.; GR.-HÔT. ARAGO & DU PALMIER (Pl. m; C, 3), Rue Arago 6, quiet;
HÔT. DE NICE (Pl. n; C, 8), Rue Garibaldi 2 and Place de la République
(Square Bresson).

=Hôtels Garnis.= HÔT. DES ETRANGERS (Pl. i; C, 3), Rue
Dumont-d’Urville 1, near the Place de la République, R. 3½–7½, B. 1½,
HÔT. D’EUROPE & TERMINUS (Pl. o; C, 3), Rue Garibaldi, corner of Boul.
Carnot (R. 3–7, B. 1 fr.), ROYAL HOTEL (Pl. p; C, 3), Boul. de la
République 10 (R. from 2½ fr.), both with fine views; HÔT. REGINA,
Boul. Bugeaud.

=Cafés.= _Café Continental_ (_Brasserie Maxéville_), _Café d’Alger_
(_Brass. de Tantonville_), both Place de la République; _Café de
Bordeaux_, Boul. de la République 1, corner of Place du Gouvernement;
_Café d’Apollon_, Place du Gouvernement 4.—CONFECTIONER. _Maison
Fille_, Rue Bab-Azoun 2.

=Restaurants.= At the _Hôtel Excelsior_ (p. 217); _London House_, at
the Hôt. de l’Oasis, Boul. de la République 9, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.;
*_Taverne Gruber_, same boulevard, No. 7, a favourite resort (music in
the afternoon and evening); _Jaumon_, Rue Dumont-d’Urville, déj. 2, D.
2½ fr., plain but good.—For LUNCHEON (fish, sea-crayfish, shell-fish,
etc.): *_Restaur. Cassar_ and _Restaur. de la Pêcherie_, Rampe de la
Pêcherie.—BEER at the *_Brasserie Terminus_, Boul. Carnot 1 (in Hôt.
de l’Europe), D. 3 fr.; also, Rue de la Liberté 6, _Brass. de
l’Etoile_ (music in the afternoon and evening) No. 11, _Brass.
Suisse_; No. 8, _Brass. du Phénix_; No. 1, _Brass. Lorraine_.

=Cabs= (_voitures de place_).

‘_Double courses_’ (there and back):— │ │per
│ │hr.
a) within the _First Zone_, extending as far as the │ │
European cemetery of St. Eugène (beyond Pl. B, 1) to │ │
the N. and as the beginning of the Champ de Manœuvres │ │
(Pl. C, 7) to the S. │1.50│2.—
Each ¼ hr. │—.50│
b) within the _Second Zone_, including the W. margin of │ │
the town (Prison Civile, Télemly, Palais d’Eté at │ │
Mustapha, etc.) and extending as far as Deux-Moulins │ │
beyond St. Eugène (comp. Map, at p. 233) to the N. and │ │
the Cimetière Musulman (Pl. D, 9) at │ 2.—│2.—
Belcourt to the S. To the Jardin d’Essai (and back) │2.50│
Each ¼ hr. │—.75│
Within the _Third Zone_ comprising the regions beyond those │ │
just named: │ │
Half-day (6 hrs.), within a radius of 15 kilometers (9½│ │
M.) │11.—│
Whole day (12 hrs.), within a radius of 25 kilomètres │ │
(15½ M.) │20.—│

During the night-hours (12–6 a.m.) a fare and a half is charged.—For
waiting, ½ fr. extra for each ¼ hr.—Hand-luggage up to 20 kilos (44
lbs.) free; each piece exceeding that 50 c.

=Motor Cabs= (_Automobiles de place_; stand, Rue Garibaldi). Drive
under 900 mètres (984 yds.) 1 fr. 50 c.; for each addit. 300 m. 20 c.;
small articles free; trunk 50 c.

=Carriages= (cabs and ‘voitures de grande remise’; fares raised
on Sun. and holidays). _Vitoz & Co._, Rue Michelet 105,
Mustapha-Supérieur; _Sanino_, Rue de Strasbourg 3, and Rue
Michelet 117; _Comp. Générale des Voitures_, Rue de Strasbourg
7.—Saddle Horses let by _Vitoz_ and _Sanino_.—

=Motor Cars= for excursions: _Metrot_, _Marcé_, both Rue d’Isly 39;
_Anglo-American Garage_, Chemin du Télemly; _E. Paul_, Rue d’Isly 73.

=Tramways= (1st and 2nd cl.). =1= (without name-board). From _Hôpital
du Dey_ (Pl. A, B, 1) to Rue Bab el-Oued (Pl. C, 1, 2), Place du
Gouvernement (Pl. C, 2), Rue Bab-Azoun (Pl. C, 2, 3), Rue d’Isly (Pl.
C, 3, 4), _Rue Michelet_, and _Station Sanitaire_ (Pl. A, 6), every 5
min. (but 5–6 a.m. and 10–12 p.m. every 10 min. only); fare 5–20
c.—=2= (red name-board). From _Place du Gouvernement_ to Rue d’Isly,
Rue Michelet, and _Colonne Voirol_ (comp. Pl. A, 8), every ½ hr. (from
6 a.m., last car at 8.5 p.m.), in 40 min.; fare 30 or 20 c.—=3=
(blue). From _Place du Gouvernement_ to Rue d’Isly, Rue Michelet, and
_Boul. Bru_ (Pl. A-C, 8, 9), every ½ hr. (last car 7.50), in ½ hr.; 30
or 20 c.—=4= (green). From _Place du Gouvernement_ to Boul. Carnot
(Pl. C, 3), Rue de Constantine (Pl. C, 4), Rue Sadi-Carnot (Pl. B, 5,
6), Rue de Lyon (Pl. B-E, 7–9), Le Ruisseau, and _Kouba_; as far as
Marabout (Cimetière Musulman de Belcourt) every 5 min.; to Les
Platanes (Jardin d’Essai) every 10 min.; to Kouba every 40 min.; fare
35 or 30 c.—=5= (red). From _Place du Gouvernement_ to Boul. Carnot,
Rue Sadi-Carnot, Jardin d’Essai (Oasis des Palmiers, in 27 min.),
Nouvel Ambert, _Maison-Carrée_ (in 1 hr.); as far as Nouvel Ambert
every 10 min., to Maison-Carrée every 20 min.; fare 60 or 45 c.—=6.=
From _Place du Gouvernement_ to Rue de la Lyre (Pl. C, 2, 3), Rue
Rovigo (Pl. C, 3), Prison Civile (Pl. B, C, 2; 20 or 15 c.), El-Biar
(comp. Pl. A, 4; 40 or 35 c.), and _Château-Neuf_ (in 50 min.; 50 or
40 c.); as far as Prison Civile every ¼ hr., to El-Biar every ½ hr.,
to Château-Neuf once every hr. (Sun. every ½ hr.).—=7.= From _Place du
Gouvernement_ to Boul. de France (Pl. D, 2), Esplanade (Pl. C, 1), Bab
el-Oued (Pl. B, 1), St. Eugène (comp. Pl. B, 1), and _Deux Moulins_,
every 9 min.; 30 or 20 c.

=Steam Tramways= from the Place du Gouvernement: to (7½ M.)
_Maison-Carrée_ (p. 247), and thence either to (4½ M.) _Fort-de-l’Eau_
(p. 248) and (12½ M.) _Aïn-Taya_ (p. 248), or to (10½ M.) _L’Arba_ (p.
247) and (15½ M.) _Rovigo_ (p. 248); to (22 M.) _Mazafran_ (p. 238),
and thence either to (6¼ M.) _Koléa_ (p. 238), or to (6½ M.)
_Castiglione_ (p. 238).

=Post & Telegraph Office= (Pl. 22, C4; p. 226), Rue de Constantine
133; branches at Rue de Strasbourg 2, in the Palais Consulaire (p.
223), at Rue Michelet 64 (Mustapha-Inférieur), near the Palais d’Eté
(p. 230), etc.

=Steamboat Agents.= _Cunard_, _North German Lloyd_ (R. 15b),
_Hamburg-American_, _German Levant_ (RR. 15b. 22), and _Hungarian
Adria_ (R. 22). R. Heckmann, Rue Colbert 1; _Comp. Générale
Transatlantique_ (RR. 20, 22), Boul. Carnot 6 and Quai de la Marine;
_Soc. de Transports Maritimes_ (R. 20), Boul. de la République 2 and
Quai de la Marine; _Comp. de Navigation Mixte_ (R. 20), Boul. Carnot 2
and Quai do la Marine; _White Star Line_, _Austro-American Line_, J.
Crispo, Boul. de la République 3; _Nederland Royal Mail_, J. Bergeret,
Boul. Carnot; _Compañía Mallorquina de Vapores_ (R. 20), J. J. Sitges
Frères, Quai Nord 40.

=Tourist Agents.= _R. Heckmann_ (Universal Tourist Office), Boul. de
la République 11; _Agence Lubin_, Rue de la Liberté 7; _Agence
Duchemin_, same street, No. 4.—Information obtainable also from the
_Comité d’Hivernage_, Rue Combe 2. 8–11 and 2–6 (Sun. 8–11).—_Club
Alpin Français_ (section de l’Atlas), Palais Consulaire (p. 223).

=Consuls.= British Consul-General, _B. S. Cave_, Boul. Carnot 6;
vice-consuls, _L. G. C. Graham_, _L. Graeme Scott_.—U. S. Consul, _A.
W. Robert_, Rue d’Isly 64.

=Physicians.= _Dr. Dangerfield_, Kent House, Colonne Voirol;
_Dr. Gubb_, Mustapha, Chemin des Glycines; _Dr. Nissen_,
Mustapha-Supérieur, Villa Bey, Rue Michelet.—CHEMISTS.
_Grandmont_ (_Obrecht_), Rue Bab-Azoun 28; _Licht_, Rue Michelet
85; _Brenta_, Rue Bab-Azoun 3.

=Baths.= _Bains du Palmier_, Rue Arago 6 (Gr.-Hôt. Arago & du
Palmier); _Bains du Hamma_, Rue du Hamma 1 (near the Théâtre
Municipal); _Bains Michelet_, Rue de Richelieu 25.—MOORISH BATHS
(comp. p. 175): _Bains de l’Alhambra_, Rue Marengo 4.—SEA BATHS
(June-Oct.; plainly fitted up; costume 50 c.): _Bains du Jardin
d’Essai_ (p. 233); _Bains Nelson_, Avenue Malakoff.

=Banks= (comp. p. 174). _Crédit Lyonnais_, Boul. de la République 6;
_Comp. Algérienne_, Rue Dumont-d’Urville; _Banque de l’Algérie_,
_Crédit Foncier et Agricole d’Algérie_, _Crédit Agricole et Commerciel
Algérien_ (J. Thibaud), all three in the Boul. de la République (Nos.
5, 8, & 4).

=Booksellers.= _Jourdan_, Place du Gouvernement and Rue Cléopâtre 1;
_Chaix_, Rue d’Isly 11bis; _Relin_, Rue d’Isly 11; _Ruff_, Rue
Bab-Azoun 10; _Carbonnel_, _Ledoux_, both Boul. de la République (Nos.
2 & 7).—=Newspapers= (5 c.). _La Dépêche Algérienne_ (morning); Les
Nouvelles, _Le Cri d’Alger_ (evening). For strangers, _The North
African News_ (Sat.; 25 c.).

=Shops= (caution almost as necessary as at Tunis; comp. p. 331).
PHOTOGRAPHS AND VIEWS. _Geiser_, Place de Chartres 2; _A.
Wollenweider_, Rue du Divan 4; _Hyam_, Station Sanitaire (Pl. A,
6).—ORIENTAL ARTICLES (partly made in France and Germany; also
Indian, Japanese, and Turkish wares). _Ratto_ (goldsmith), Rue
Socgémah 12; _Pohoomull Frères_, Rue Bab-Azoun 11; _Ratto-Magana_,
Rue de l’Etat Major 5; _Miss Jockyl_, English Club Buildings,
Mustapha-Supérieur.—EMBROIDERY. _Mme. Hémery_, Rue Michelet 89,
Mustapha-Supérieur.—COPPER AND BRASS WORK. _Zagha_ (from Damascus),
Rue Bruce 27; _Nassan_, Place Malakoff.

=Theatres.= _Théâtre Municipal_ (Pl. 26; C, 3), Place de la
République, for operas, operettas, and dramas, closed in summer;
_Kursaal_ (Pl. C, 1), Esplanade de Bab-el-Oued (tickets sold in
advance at 4 Boul. de la République.—_Casino Music Hall_), Rue d’Isly
9 (fauteuil 2½ fr.).—_Fêtes Mauresques_ at the Kasba, arranged by the
Comité d’Hivernage (p. 219), with native musicians and dancers (adm. 5
fr.).

=Band= plays in winter, Sun. and Thurs., 4–5, in the Place du
Gouvernement; in summer (May-Oct.), on Mon., Wed., and Sat., from 8 to
10.30, in the Place de la République (Square Bresson), and on Sun.,
Tues., and Thurs., from 8 to 10.30, in the Place du Gouvernement.

=Golf Club=, with good nine hole course, near the Pens. Villa Olivage
(p. 217).—SKATING RINK at the corner of Boul. Carnot and Rue Waïsse
(Pl. C, 4).

=Churches.= _English_ (_Ch. of the Holy Ghost_; p. 230), Rue Michelet
(Pl. A, 7), to the N. of the Alexandra Hotel (p. 217); Sun. services
at 8 and 11.30 or 9.45 a.m.; chaplain, _Rev. A. P. Cronyn, M.
A._—_Presbyterian_ (_St. Andrew’s_; Pl. 7, A 6) also Rue Michelet,
Sun. service at 10.30 a.m.; minister, _Rev. T. E. Jubb_, M. A.

=Sights=, with days and hours of admission:—

_Archevêché_ (p. 224), all day; fee ½–1 fr.

_Bibliothèque Nationale_ (p. 225), week-days 1–6; closed Aug. and
Sept.

_Conseil Général_ (p. 224), apply to secretary; week-days 8–11 and
1–5.

_Jardin d’Essai_ (p. 232), all day (_Zoologie_ 50 c.).

_Kasba Barracks_ (p. 227), apply to Etat-Major, Rue de la Marine 11.

_Medersa_ (p. 228), except during lectures; closed Sun., Frid., and
on great Mohammedan festivals.

_Mosquée de la Pêcherie_ (p. 223), at any time except during
prayers.

_Mosque, Great_ (p. 224), as above.

_Mosque of Sidi Abderrahmân_ (p. 228), Sun., Mon., Tues., 8–12 and
2–3; closed on the chief Mohammedan holidays.

_Musée Municipal des Beaux-Arts_ (p. 226), daily, except Friday.

_Museum_ (p. 229), daily, except Mon., 1–4 (1st April to 15th July
2–5; closed 16th July to 30th Sept.).

_Palais d’Eté du Gouverneur_ (p. 230), in his absence; fee ½–1 fr.

_Palais d’Hiver du Gouverneur_ (p. 225), as above.

_Synagogue_ (p. 227), all Frid., Sat. after 12, at other times apply
to keeper, 30–50 c.

As to visiting the _Mosques_, see p. 174.—Men are not admitted to the
_Mohammedan Cemeteries_ (p. xxvi) on Frid. and holidays 12–6.

TWO DAYS. 1st. Forenoon, _Place de la République_, _Boul. de la
République_, _Place du Gouvernement_, _Great Mosque_, _Archevêché_
(pp. 222–224), *_Kasba Quarter_ (pp. 226, 227), *_Mosque of
Sidi-Abderrahmân_ (p. 228), and *_Jardin Marengo_ (p. 224). Afternoon,
_Mustapha-Supérieur_ with the *_Museum_ (pp. 228–230).—2nd. Forenoon,
_Mohammedan Cemetery_ at _Belcourt_ (p. 232), *_Jardin d’Essai_ (p.
232). Afternoon, _Notre-Dame d’Afrique_ (p. 236) or _Bouzaréah_ (p.
235).

_Algiers_, French _Alger_, Ital. _Algéri_, the capital of the French colony of Algeria, with 154,000 inhab. (incl. 35,200 foreigners, mostly Italians and Spaniards, 33,200 Mohammedans, and 12,500 Jews), seat of the archbishop of Algeria, a fortress, and a naval harbour, lies in 36°47′ N. lat. and 3°2′ E. long., on the W. side of the nearly semicircular *_Baie d’Alger_, which is bounded on the W. by the _Pointe Pescade_ (p. 237), and on the E. by _Cape Matifou_ (p. 248). It is the most important coaling-station on the whole coast, and shares with Oran the chief trade of Algeria. The town extends along the slopes of the _Sahel of Algiers_, a range of hills about 44 M. long, culminating in _Mt. Bouzaréah_ (p. 235), continued beyond the mouth of the _Oued el-Harrach_ by low sand-hills, and separated from the Tell Atlas by the _Mitidja_ (p. 169). With regard to climate, see pp. 170, 172.

On the site of the Roman _Icosium_, an unimportant place on the road
to Tipasa and Cæsarea (Cherchell, p. 244), _Bologgîn ez-Ziri_ (p.
323), about 940 (about the same date as the foundation of Miliana and
Médéa) founded the new colony of _Al-Jezaïr Beni Mezghanna_, so called
from the adjacent coast-islands (jezîra, pl. jezaïr) and from the
Berber tribe of the Beni Mezghanna who dwelt in this region. It is
recorded that in the 11th cent. the inhabitants of the new settlement
used the old Roman baths, of which there is now no trace, for their
amusements and an old Christian basilica for their worship. From that
time the history of Al-Jezaïr is a blank down to the end of the 15th
cent., when it began to serve the Moorish exiles from Spain
(afterwards called Tagarins here) as a base of their retaliatory
expeditions against Spain. In 1509 or 1510 the Spaniards, in the
course of their victorious career, occupied the largest of the
coast-islands, where they erected the fortress of _El-Peñón_, and
conquered the Mitidja which had recently been colonized by the Arabian
tribe of the Tsaliba. The little town, called _Argel_ by the
Spaniards, was inhabited by Mohammedans, who in 1516 summoned to their
aid, from Djidjelli, _Horuk (Arudj) Barbarossa_, a Turkish pirate of
Christian descent. Horuk complied with the request and established
himself at Al-Jezaïr, where, after repelling a Spanish expedition
under Diego de Vera (1516), he erected the Jenina as his residence and
the Kasba as his citadel.

Having fallen in a battle with the Spaniards near Tlemcen (p. 187),
Horuk was succeeded by his brother _Kheireddin Barbarossa_ (1518–36),
who became the real founder of the new barbaresco or piratical state.
As a vassal of the sultan of Turkey he extended his sway over the
greater part of Algeria. He defeated Hugo de Moncada, the Spanish
viceroy, in 1519, and in 1530, after having stormed the fortress of
Peñón, he constructed the Jetée de Kheireddin with its materials and
with others from Rusguniæ (p. 248) and Tipasa, thus creating the first
harbour of Algiers. Thenceforwards for three centuries the ‘Algerian
pirates’ were the terror of the seas, to whom, for protection of their
trade, England, Holland, the Hanseatic towns, and other maritime
countries ignominiously consented to pay tribute. Fourteen times the
European powers, from the time of the fruitless campaign of Charles V.
in 1541 to the British expedition of 1824, had besieged and bombarded
Algiers in vain. The beys (or, after 1600, deys) had succeeded in
maintaining their position, and in 1627 had even carried their
piratical expeditions as far as Iceland. It was not till 1830 that
these barbarous piracies were put a stop to by the French, and that
the way was thus paved for conquest of the whole of Algeria.

The most stirring events in the recent history of Algeria were the
conquest of Constantine (1837), the protracted struggles against _Abd
el-Kâder_ (1839–47), the defeat of his Moroccan allies on the Oued
Isly (1844), the subjection of Great Kabylia (1856–7), the revolts of
the natives in 1871–2, the rising of _Bou-Amama_ in S. Oran (1881),
the occupation of the Sahara as far as Tidikelt and the Tuat oases
(1892–1901), and lastly the French advance towards Morocco (comp. p.
96).

The Algiers of the Turkish period consisted solely of the triangular quarter on the slope of the _Kasba Hill_, between the old landward gates, _Bab Azoun_ on the S. and _Bab el-Oued_ on the N., with the _Sûk_ or Market Street (now Rue Bab-Azoun and Rue Bab el-Oued) as its nucleus. Between these two gates ran the old Turkish wall, on whose site lie the Boul. Gambetta (Pl. B, C, 3), on the S., and the Boul. Valée (Pl. C, 2), on the N. The French ramparts constructed in 1845 extended the town as far as the present Boul. Laferrière (Pl. C, 4, 5) to the S., and to the Boul. du Général Farre to the N. (Pl. C, 1). Since the demolition of these fortifications in 1904 the industrial suburbs on the coast and the lofty villa-suburbs, _Quartier d’Isly_ (Pl. B, 4, 5), _Télemly_ (Pl. A, 5, 6), and _Mustapha-Supérieur_ (Pl. A, 7, 8), which last is little frequented except in winter, have all been brought within the precincts of the town.

a. Lower Quarter of the Old Town.

The chief business parts of the town are the arcades, with their numerous shops, in the Rue Bab-Azoun (Pl. C, 2, 3) and Rue Bab el-Oued (Pl. C, 2; p. 224), the Place du Gouvernement (Pl. C, 2; p. 223), the focus of all the tramways, and above all the spacious PLACE DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE (Pl. C, 3), with the gardens of _Square Bresson_ (band, see p. 220), adorned with bamboos and magnolias, the _Théâtre Municipal_ (p. 220), and the most showy cafés. Between these two places and the sea, at a height of 65 ft. above the quay and its warehouses, run the uniform rows of houses of the BOULEVARD DE FRANCE (Pl. D, 2; p. 223), the BOULEVARD DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE, completed in 1866, and the BOULEVARD CARNOT (Pl. C, 3, 4), with the new _Préfecture_ (Pl. 23; C, 4) in the Moorish style (1910). These streets, together 1 M. long, form a coast-promenade, whence in clear weather we enjoy a splendid *View of the blue bay, the Atlas Mts. of Blida, and the distant Jurjura chain (p. 258). In stormy weather, however, the Rampe de l’Amirauté (Pl. D, 2; p. 223) and the Boul. Amiral Pierre (Pl. C, D, 1, 2; p. 224) attract many walkers.

The sole =Harbour=, prior to the French period, was the _Ancien Port_, or _Darse de l’Amirauté_ (Pl. D, 2), constructed by Kheireddin Barbarossa, once a nest of piratical vessels, and now a torpedo-boat station and anchorage for yachts and fishing-boats. The new _Port de Commerce_ and _Port Militaire_, 213 acres in area, with the _Quai de la Marine_, which was extended in 1908, have been formed since 1848 at a cost of 46 million francs. They are protected by the wave-beaten _Jetée du Nord_, 984 yds. long, the prolongation of the old Jetée of Kheireddin (comp. p. 221), and by the Jetée du Sud, 1350 yds. in length. The entrance is 268 yds. in breadth. A second commercial harbour, the _Arrière-Port_ (Pl. C, D, 5, 6), was begun in 1898, but is still uncompleted.

The harbour is approached by the _Rampes Magenta_, descending from Boul. Carnot to the principal railway-station (p. 217), by the _Rampes Chasseloup-Laubat_, connecting the Boul. de la République with the Douane (Pl. D, 3) and with the warehouses and offices of the French steamboat-companies, and by the _Rampe de l’Amirauté_ (Pl. D, 2), on the old Jetée of Kheireddin. This jetty or quay, the oldest of all, connects the old Porte de France on the mainland (once the Turkish sea-gate) with what was once the island of Peñón (p. 221), now the _Presqu’île de l’Amirauté._ Walkers may descend also by the _Escaliers du Bastion Central_, opposite the Square Bresson (p. 222), or from the Place du Gouvernement by the _Escaliers de la Pêcherie_, past the mosque of that name and the _Fish Market_, which is worth seeing in the early morning.

On the Quai du Nord, between the approach to the fish-market and the old Porte de France, a pretty _Turkish Fountain_ has been preserved. Adjoining the neo-Moorish _Palais de l’Amirauté_ (Pl. D, 2) is the Turkish _Gate_, with two heraldic animals (panthers?), an interesting relic of the Bordj Ras el-Moul which was burned down in 1816. We notice also several muzzle-loading guns built into the wall, now serving as bulkheads or as posts for mooring vessels. Visitors are not admitted to the _Phare_ (Pl. D, 2; lighthouse), a relic of the Turkish fort erected in 1544 on the site of the Spanish castle of Peñón, nor to the small _Station Zoologique_ (Pl. D, 2).

We now follow the Boul. de France, past the handsome _Palais Consulaire_ (Pl. 19, D 2; chamber of commerce, exchange, etc.), to the—

PLACE DU GOUVERNEMENT, the noisiest place in the town, crowded with natives at all hours (concerts, see p. 220). The equestrian statue, in bronze, of the _Duke of Orleans_ (1810–42), a distinguished general in the Algerian campaigns, is by the Piedmontese Carlo Marocchetti (1845). Behind the statue, and half concealed by the Boul. de France, is the curiously incongruous—

=Mosquée de la Pêcherie= (Pl. 16, D 2; Arabic _Jâma el-Jedid_, new mosque), erected by Turkish architects in 1660 for adherents of the Hanefite ritual (p. 445). It is a cruciform building with nave and aisles, a huge central dome tastelessly painted inside, a rich marble pulpit of Italian workmanship, and a square minaret (now clock-tower). Entrance in the Rampe de la Pêcherie (adm., see p. 220).

A few paces to the E. of the Place du Gouvernement, adjoining the Rue de la Marine (Pl. D, 2), the harbour-street of the Turkish and early French period, is the small Place de la Pêcherie, the site of the pirates’ _Slave Market_.

Close by is the =Great Mosque= (Pl. 15, D 2; Arabic _Jâma el-Kebîr_), the oldest and largest mosque in the town, founded in 1018 for believers in the Malekite ritual, but often altered since then. Both the mosque and its minaret, originally built by the Abdelwadite Abû Tâkhfîn (p. 190) in 1322–3, have now been modernized. The entrance is by a portico in the Rue de la Marine, erected in 1837 with materials from a mosque of the Jenina (p. 225), leading into a court, embellished with a Turkish fountain, and to the unadorned sacred building itself, with its eleven aisles or arcades and horseshoe arches resting on low pillars.

The quarter to the N.W. of the Rue de la Marine, between Boul. Amiral-Pierre (Pl. C, D, 1, 2) and Rue Bab el-Oued (see below), is inhabited mainly by Italians and natives and still contains many mediæval features in its sombre lanes and passages. Soon after entering it, we come to a pleasing _Turkish House_, Rue Duquesne, No. 15, in the small square of that name, with a marble portal and a two-storied court.

The building of the =Conseil Général= (Pl. 5a, D 2; adm., see p. 220), close by, Rue de la Charte No. 5, a good example of Moorish-Turkish architecture, with its Renaissance portal, was the British consulate in the Turkish period. No. 29, in the adjoining Rue d’Orléans, has a remarkably rich Italian Renaissance portal.

The short Rue du Quatorze-Juin, the last houses in the Rue des Consuls (Pl. D, 2), occupied by the other European consuls in the Turkish period, and the adjacent narrow Rue Navarin and Rue Jean-Bart, all have the character of the Kasba quarter (p. 227).

The narrow passage called Rue des Postes leads here to the Rue Volland (Pl. C, 1), the cross-street between Boul. Amiral-Pierre and the AVENUE BAB EL-OUED (Pl. C, 1). Here, on the right, are the barracks and the _Kursaal Theatre_ (p. 220), and on the left the _Lycée National_, on the site of the Turkish janissaries’ barracks.

The Rampe Valée ascending hence to the Kasba quarter skirts the *=Jardin Marengo= (Pl. C, 1), a public park, laid out in 1834–47 on the site of the Mohammedan cemetery; the grounds, with their wealth of palms, yuccas, and bamboos, climb the hill-side as far as the mosque of Sidi Abderrahmân (p. 228).

We now return by the RUE BAB EL-OUED (Pl. C, 2; p. 222) to the Place du Gouvernement. Halfway, in the Rue de la Kasba (p. 227), rises on the right the church of _Notre-Dame des Victoires_ (Pl. 8; C, 2), formerly a mosque (_Jâma Bitchnîn_, of 1622).

From the W. side of the Place du Gouvernement (p. 223) the Rue du Divan and Rue du Soudan lead to the small PLACE MALAKOFF, on the E. side of which, between these streets, rises the—

*=Archevêché= (Pl. 1, C 2; archbishop’s palace), the finest and but little modernized relic of the _Jenina_ founded by Horuk Barbarossa (p. 221) in 1516. In the course of centuries this residence of the beys was gradually extended to the Rue Jenina and the Rue Socgémah, and in 1816 was at length superseded by the Kasba (p. 227). The entrance is by the Renaissance portal (adm., see p. 220; apply to the concierge).

The fine court, with its two stories and horseshoe arches resting on
slender winding columns, is remarkable for its harmonious proportions.
The walls are adorned with tiles of little value, but the rich
wrought-iron gratings of the windows deserve notice. The upper story,
whose galleries have small domed chambers at the four corners, is
adjoined by rooms sumptuously decorated like those of the Alcázar at
Seville (p. 61). We note in particular the lavish ornamentation in
stucco, the elegant window-shutters, restored in part, and the
beautiful ceilings in cedar and oak panelling. The room converted into
a chapel has been materially altered.

The =Cathedral= (Pl. 3, C 2; _St. Philippe_), on the W. side of the same Place, built since 1843 in a strangely mingled Moorish and Romanesque style, occupies the site of the _Ketshâwa Mosque_ erected by Hassan Pasha in 1791 (see below). The façade is adorned with two towers resembling minarets. The first chapel contains the bones of the so-called Gerónimo, a Christian Arab (comp. p. 230), who is said to have been immured alive in 1569.

The _Palais d’Hiver du Gouverneur_ (Pl. 21, C 2; adm., see p. 220), built by Hassan Pasha (1791–9), like the National Library (see below), is one of the latest specimens of Moorish-Turkish architecture in Algeria; but it has been entirely remodelled to suit its present purpose and has been provided with a new façade. Above the old portal, Rue du Soudan No. 5 (now Bureau Arabe; see p. 174), is a pretty carved projecting roof. No. 7, next door, has a rich marble portal. The roof affords a good survey of the whole of the Jenina buildings.

To the N. of the Place Malakoff, in the Rue de l’Etat-Major, No. 12, on the left, is the—

=National Library= (Pl. 2; C, 2), in the old palace of Mustapha Pasha (1799–1805), containing about 40,000 vols. and 2000 MSS. Adm., see p. 220. Librarian, M. E. Maupas.

Adjoining the vestibule (skiffa), adorned with clustered columns and
Delft fayence, on the left, is the two-storied *Quadrangle, similar to
that of the archiepiscopal palace. In the gallery of the first floor
are views of Old Algiers (including the bombardment by the British
fleet in 1824). Adjacent are two small reading-rooms containing a
valuable collection of Arabic, Berber, and Turkish MSS. (shown only on
application to the curator M. Abdeltif). The charters of the Turkish
period also are important.

The _Bureaux du Gouvernement_, Rue Bruce 10, which once belonged to the Jenina buildings, also are worth seeing (apply to the governor’s secretary). So, too, is the pleasing _Dwelling House_, Rue Socgémah 12 (now owned by M. Ratto, goldsmith; p. 220).—The old _Dâr Soof_ (wool-exchange), Rue de l’Intendance 1, one of the most ornate Mauro-Turkish buildings in the town, is now a private house and can be seen only by special introduction.

We now turn to the E. to visit the Rue de Chartres or the Rue de la Lyre (Pl. C, 2, 3), which, like the neighbouring Rue Randon in the Kasba quarter (p. 227), contain countless little shops kept by Jews and Mozabites (p. 216). The _Marché de Chartres_ and the _Marché de la Lyre_ (Pl. 14; C, 3) are the chief provision markets. In the afternoon the former is devoted to the sale of second-hand goods. The Rue de Chartres and the two flights of steps in the Place de la Lyre, next to the theatre, lead back to the Place de la République (p. 222).

To the S. of the Place de la République are the new quarters of the town. At the beginning of the RUE DE CONSTANTINE (Pl. C, 3, 4), on the left, is the new _Palais de Justice_ (Pl. 20; C, 3), in the pseudo-classical style. On the right is the new-Romanesque church of _St. Augustin_ (Pl. 9; C, 3).

At the back of this church runs the Rue Dumont-d’Urville (Pl. C, 3), passing almost immediately on the left the Rue de Tanger, in which rises the small _Mosque of the Mozabites_ (p. 216), and leading to the long and monotonous RUE D’ISLY (Pl. C, 4). The latter crosses the Place d’Isly. (Pl. C, 4), where a monument has been erected to _Marshal Bugeaud_ (1784–1849), the conqueror of Abd el-Kâder (p. 221).

Farther on in the Rue de Constantine, on the left, at No. 32 is the _Musée Municipal des Beaux-Arts_ (adm., see p. 220), containing a small collection of pictures mostly by French painters.

The Rue de Constantine and Rue d’Isly reach the boundary of the old town at the new _Post Office_ (Pl. 22, C, 4; p. 219), a neo-Moorish building (1910), on the N. side of the BOULEVARD LAFERRIÈRE (Pl. C, 4, 5; p. 222), or Boul. Militaire Sud. To the right, above, are the handsome offices of the _Dépêche Algérienne_ (p. 220), in the neo-Moorish style. The open space on the left, down by the sea, is destined for the future _Central Station_.

From Boul. Laferrière to _Mustapha-Supérieur_, see pp. 231, 230; to _Belcourt_ and _Le Hamma_, see p. 232.

b. The Kasba.

To avoid the steep ascents in the Kasba Quarter we take the tramway
(No. 6, p. 219) to the Prison Civile, glance at the Mohammedan
Cemetery and the Kasba Barracks, and then descend from the Boul. de la
Victoire by one or other of the streets (very slippery in wet weather)
between the Rue de la Kasba (Pl. C, 2) and Boul. Gambetta (Pl. B, C,
3). It should be noted that all the ascending streets lead to the
Boulevard de la Victoire, and the descending streets to Rue Randon or
Rue Marengo. Ladies in particular may sometimes gain admission to one
of the better Moorish houses (comp. p. xxvi), where they should not
omit to see the view from the roof. A walk through the Kasba quarter
by moonlight is delightful, but safe only for a considerable party.

The *=Kasba Quarter= (Pl. B, C, 2, 3), the almost unaltered main portion of old Algiers, bounded by the Rue Randon, Rue Marengo, and Boul. de la Victoire, lies on the hill-side below the _Kasba_, the old castle and afterwards the residence of the Turkish rulers, and still presents a highly attractive picture of Oriental life, though partly inhabited by Maltese and Spaniards as well as by Mohammedans of various races and creeds (p. 171). A few streets only, with small mosques, coffee-houses, and shops, show signs of life in the daytime, and that chiefly on Fridays and Sundays. Most of the streets, however, often only 6–7 ft. wide, with their jutting upper stories and balconies supported by brackets of beams, and the numerous blind alleys and sombre vaulted passages are shrouded in silence, while their bare, almost windowless walls and their closed doors, marked with the sign of the warning hand (p. 81), enhance their impenetrable mystery.

The chief business street of the Kasba is the RUE RANDON (Pl. C, 2, 3; comp. p. 226), especially the S. part of it with its shops, between the Marché de la Lyre (p. 226) and the SYNAGOGUE (Pl. 24, C 2; adm., see p. 220), a building with a huge dome and three women’s galleries.

The Rue de la Girafe and Rue Caton, the last two side-streets before the Synagogue, ascend to the RUE KLÉBER (Pl. C, 2), where, at the crossing of the Rue d’Anfreville and Rue du Palmier, opposite an Arabian coffee-house, rises the small _Mosque of Sidi Mohammed ech-Chériff_ (Pl. 17; C, 2).

The Rue d’Anfreville leads to the left to the long RUE DE LA PORTE-NEUVE (Pl. C, 2, 3), a street starting from the Rue de la Lyre (p. 226). A little way down we may visit its side-streets, Rue des Dattes and Rue Médée, and then return by the Rue de la Mer Rouge to the upper part of the Rue Kléber. We may next follow the Rue du Palmier (see above) and the Rue Annibal, or its side-street Rue Tombouctou, to the long and steep RUE DE LA KASBA (Pl. C, 2), which ascends in steps from the Rue Bab el-Oued (p. 224) to the Kasba barracks.

The small square at the top of the Rue de la Kasba, adjoining the BOULEVARD DE LA VICTOIRE (Pl. B, C, 2), is a resort of jugglers and story-tellers, with their admiring audience.

Passing the _Prison Civile_ (Pl. B, C, 2; on the right), and crossing the moat, we may now visit the Mohammedan _Cimetière d’el-Kettar_ (Pl. B, 2), prettily situated on the slope above the _Frais-Vallon_ (p. 234).

The =Kasba= (Pl. B, 2; 427 ft.), originally an octagonal pile of buildings, surrounded by large gardens, was erected by Horuk Barbarossa in 1516, but was afterwards much altered. In 1816–30 it was the residence of the deys (comp. p. 221), and now serves as the Zouave barracks. The large two-storied quadrangle in the Mauro-Turkish style is a relic of the original building. The old mosque is now used as a storehouse. Adm., see p. 220.

The road to El-Biar (p. 234) leads through the Kasba and then
traverses the old _Quartier des Tagarins_ (comp. p. 221), which
extended to the Porte du Sahel (Pl. B, 3).

From the Prison Civile the steep BOULEVARD VALÉE (Pl. C, 2; p. 222) leads back to the town, the lower part commanding a superb *View of Algiers and its bay.

This boulevard joins the RUE MARENGO, opposite the MEDERSA (Pl. C, 2; adm., see p. 220), opened in 1904, one of the three recently founded Mohammedan colleges of Algeria, a building in an appropriate neo-Moorish style. No. 46, nearly opposite, is the pretty little Medersa of the Turkish period.

The *=Mosque of Sidi Abderrahmân= (Pl. 18, C 2; adm., see p. 220), built in 1696 and dedicated to the learned marabout Sidi Abderrahmân et-Tsalbi (1387–1468), the chief saint of the Tsaliba (p. 221), has no attraction beyond its elegant minaret, adorned with coloured tiles; but its situation near the Jardin Marengo (p. 224), and the charming view it commands, are most impressive. The kubba of the saint is bedecked, as is usual in the case of such tombs, with flags, ostrich-eggs, and other offerings. The small burial-grounds attached are relics of the chief Mohammedan cemetery (p. 224).

c. Mustapha-Supérieur and Environs.

The narrow coast-plain, here called _Plaine de Mustapha_, is the
somewhat abrupt margin of the _Sahel_, to the S. of the old town, on
which lie the _Quartier d’Isly_, _Télemly_, and _Mustapha-Supérieur_,
where the white villas dating from the Turkish period, with their
superb gardens and luxuriant orchards, are occupied chiefly by English
and American residents. This is the favourite promenade of foreign
visitors. Tramways Nos. 1, 2, and 3, see pp. 218, 219. To avoid
ascents the traveller had better begin his walk at the terminus of
line No. 2 or No. 3.

The main street of *=Mustapha-Supérieur= is the RUE MICHELET (Pl. B, A, 5–8), a street nearly 2½ M. long, in line with the Rue d’Isly. The first third of it is uninteresting. It passes the former _Académie_ (Pl. B, 5), situated on a high terrace below the Quartier d’Isly, which was converted into a university in 1909 (1442 students). Farther on the road leads through the suburb of _Agha-Supérieur_ to the (½ M.) so-called _Plateau Saulière_ (Pl. B, 6, 7; tramway-terminus, Station Sanitaire; p. 218).

The upper Rue Michelet, which, in spite of its steep hills, is the most fashionable drive in Algiers, ascends, partly in windings, past the hotels (p. 217), a number of handsome villas, and several charming points of view, to the top of the Sahel. Beyond the _Scottish Church_ (p. 220) at the first sharp bend in the road, rises, behind the view-terrace of the _Museum Garden_, the—

*=Museum= (_Musée National des Antiquités Algériennes_; Pl. A, 6, 7), opened in 1897, containing the finest collection of the kind in Algeria. Adm., see p. 220. Catalogue rather old (1899). Director, M. Stéphane Gsell.

The GARDEN contains a dolmen (of the Beni-Messous) from Guyotville (p.
237), Roman tombstones, vases, etc.

In the VESTIBULE are views of Old Algiers, from the 17th cent.
onwards. Over the inner door is an early-Christian mosaic from
Rusguniæ (p. 248) representing Christ as the Good Shepherd.—The COURT
contains modern views of Algiers and Arabic, Jewish, and Turkish
inscriptions. In the centre is a Roman mosaic from Sila, representing
Scylla (p. 155) and marine deities.—On the right is—

ROOM I. The cases in the middle and most of the wall-presses contain
prehistoric antiquities from the provinces of Algeria and Oran and
from the Sahara, including the Flamand collection (1889–90). Along the
walls are ranged casts and copies of the graffiti or rock-drawings of
Tiout (p. 202), Moghrar-Tahtàni (p. 203), etc.; Libyan (early Berber)
tomb-stelæ; on the end-wall to the right, a warrior on horseback, from
Abizar in Great Kabylia; two cases with relics from Phœnician tombs at
Gouraya (some of them imported from Greece); also Punic tomb-stelæ,
etc.—In the centre are a fine mosaic from Aïn-Babouch and models of
the mausoleum of Le Khroub (p. 273), of the so-called Tombeau de la
Chrétienne (p. 238), and of the Medracen (p. 274).—We now pass through
R. IV into—

ROOM II. In the centre are antique marbles: *Torso of a Venus (in the
style of the Capitoline Venus), draped female *Statue (replica of a
work of the age of Phidias; the head added later), colossal statue of
Poseidon (after a Greek original of the 4th cent.), torso of Bacchus,
Satyr and Hermaphrodite (after a group of the Hellenistic period; a
torso), two elegant decorative pillars, all of these coming from the
so-called museum of king Juba at Cherchell (p. 244); then a colossal
bust of Minerva from Khamissa; bronze *Figure of a boy with an eagle,
from Lambèse. By the wall next the court is a fragment of a
sarcophagus-relief, Warrior with wounded Amazon (Achilles and
Penthesilea?). By the back-wall are casts of the chief antiques of
Cherchell, marble busts, including Jupiter Serapis and a god of the
lower regions, both from Carthage. The wall-cabinets contain Greek and
Etruscan vases and fragments of Roman sculptures and inscriptions.
Around are mosaics: Boar and panther hunt from Orléansville; fragment
of a representation of the Four Seasons, from Lambèse; Europa with the
bull, Jupiter and Antiope, Oceanus and Nereids. In the centre is a
relief-plan of Timgad (p. 289).—We next pass through R. V into—

ROOM III. Among the bronzes in the first case are a mask (3rd cent. B.
C.) from El-Grimidi; a statuette of Venus untying her sandal, from
Cherchell; adjacent, an early-Christian bronze lamp (5th cent.). Then
come cases with Greek, Roman, and Mauretanian coins, lamps, etc. The
case by the wall next the court contains early-Christian reliquaries
(in terracotta). Along the walls are ranged Roman and early-Christian
inscriptions, reliefs, and architectural fragments; by the
entrance-wall is the tombstone of a bishop from Mouzaïaville (5th
cent.); by the end-wall Roman busts (incl. Hadrian); a slab bearing
regulations as to rights of using water, from Lamasba (Mérouana);
early-Christian sarcophagus from Dellys (4th cent.).

The corner-rooms (IV and V) contain the ORIENTAL SECTION (Art of
Islam), which has received considerable additions and for which five
new rooms are being prepared.

ROOM IV. Berber and early Moorish works of art. In the ante-room
Berber vases, tissues, and wood-carving from Great Kabylia, etc.,
incl. an ancient Kabylian cradle. In the central case are Berber
trinkets, chiefly from Great Kabylia (Dra el-Mizan; work of the
Beni-Yenni), and Tunisian vases. Cases with Algerian bronzes and
curiosities from Kalâa des Beni-Hammad (p. 270; stucco-work, fragments
of vases). Cases and two wall-presses containing superb Moroccan
embroidery (some showing Spanish-Moorish influence), mostly from the
region of Fez. A large majolica vase from Palma (Majorca). Also, on
the walls, *Carpets from the district of Jebel Amour, from Kalâa (p.
207), Kairwan, Rabât, and of the tribe of the Rirha (near Sétif).

ROOM V, devoted mainly to the Mauro-Turkish art of the barbaresques.
At the entrance is a marble portal of Italian workmanship. Stands with
weapons (some of them in the Louis XVI. style), trinkets, richly
embroidered slippers, pistol-cases, cartridge-belts, etc., and also
gorgeous feminine apparel. On a stand, with gold embroidery from
mosques and saints’ tombs, is placed the cast of the so-called
Gerónimo (p. 225). By the walls are two superb saddles, copper
vessels, furniture inlaid with mother-of-pearl, etc.; presses with
Algerian *Embroidery (curtains of ladies’ chambers, bath-veils, etc.).
By the back-wall, Jewesses’ costumes from Constantine. In the gallery
are Smyrna carpets.

In the Rue Michelet, a few paces farther, beyond the Chemin du Télemly (see below), is a small round space with a marble _Statue of Mac Mahon_ (1808–93; governor of Algeria in 1864–70). Opposite, to the left, is the—

_Palais d’Eté du Gouverneur_ (Pl. A, 7), a fine neo-Moorish building with beautiful grounds. Adm., see p. 220.

Farther on we cross the Chemin de Gascogne or Chemin Romain, the shortest route from Mustapha-Inférieur (p. 232) to the Colonne Voirol (see below). Near the lower half of that road is the _Orphelinat St. Vincent-de-Paul_ (Pl. A, 7), on the site of a villa of Mustapha Pasha (p. 225), to whom this quarter owes its name.

Following the Rue Michelet farther to the S. we pass, on the right, the new _English Church_ (p. 220), in the Moorish style. The cost of building, which amounted to 7000_l._, was defrayed by the French Government in compensation for the site of the former English church which was required for the new post-office (p. 226).

Beyond the bifurcation of Boul. Bru (p. 231) the Rue Michelet takes a sharp turn to the N.W. and leads along the margin of the so-called _Bois de Boulogne_ (Pl. A, 8, 9), a sparse pine-wood, to the _Colonne Voirol_ (689 ft.; tramway-terminus, see pp. 218, 219), a monument in memory of General Voirol.

* * * * *

One of the finest and easiest walks at Mustapha-Supérieur is the *=Chemin du Télemly= (Pl. A, B, 6–4), which diverges to the right from the Rue Michelet just beyond the Museum garden (p. 228) and leads along the slope of the Sahel, halfway up, passing through several verdant ravines (_Ravin des Sept-Sources_, etc.), to the (1¾ M.) _Quartier d’Isly_ (Pl. B, 4, 5), a charming, loftily-situated villa-quarter. This road affords several splendid views of the bay.

From the Quartier d’Isly we may either descend by the Rue Edouard-Cat and Avenue Pasteur to the lower Rue Michelet and the Rue d’Isly (p. 226), or we may follow the main road as far as the town-wall, between the Boul. Laferrière (p. 226) and the Porte du Sahel (p. 233).

Side-roads connect the Chemin du Télemly with the _Campagne Bellevue_
(see below) on one side, and with _St. Raphaël_ (p. 234) on the other.

As the road, mostly bordered with hedges, which leads from the Colonne Voirol (p. 230) to (1¼ M.) _El-Biar_ (p. 234), passing the _Campagne Bellevue_ (794 ft.) halfway, is monotonous, the =Chemin de Maclay=, leading from the Colonne Voirol to (1¾ M.) _Château-Neuf_ (p. 234), is far preferable. It passes through the upper valley of the _Oued Knis_ (see below), verdant with fruit-trees, eucalypti, and pines, runs to the N.W. to the (½ M.) _Café d’Hydra_, and at the (½ M.) _Café-Restaurant du Retour de la Chasse_ joins the highroad coming from Blida.

A little way to the S.W. of the Colonne Voirol, on the road from
Algiers to Douéra and Boufarik (p. 216), is the beautiful _Château
d’Hydra_, once a country-seat of the Deys, but now private property.