Chapter VIII: Sea Routes in the Eastern Mediterranean (7)

We next pass _Askania_ (469 ft.) and _Christiana_ (916 ft.), the southmost islets of the _Cyclades_ (p. xxxii), which belong to Greece, and which, like the S. Sporades (p. 490) in the _Ægean Sea_, rise from a submarine barrier running between the extremities of Attica and Eubœa (p. 529) and the coast of Asia Minor.

Beyond Christiana we have a striking view of the immense prehistoric crater-basin formed by the islands of _Therasía_ (952 ft.) and _Santorin_ (p. 417). To the N. appear the wild rocky island of _Síkinos_ (1480 ft.) and the distant _Iós_ or _Niós_ (p. 417), and to the N.W. _Pholégandros_ (1349 ft.) and the large volcanic island of _Melos_ or _Milos_ (2537 ft.).

We steer between Pholégandros on the right and _Polinos_ (1171 ft.) on the left, a broad passage marked by lighthouses at night, and then through the strait between _Kímolos_ (1306 ft.) on the left and _Siphnos_ (2280 ft.; lighthouse) on the right, both of which, like _Sériphos_ (1585 ft.; on the right; with iron-mines), have retained their ancient Greek names.

Passing at some distance from _Thermiá_ (1148 ft.; the ancient _Kythnos_) and _Kea_ (p. 529) we steer close by the islet of _Hágios Georgios_ and through the _Bay of Ægina_ to the _Piraeus_ (p. 494).

* * * * *

On the VOYAGE TO SMYRNA we steam to the N.N.W., 370 M. from Alexandria, to _Rhodes_ (p. 490).

Beyond Rhodes on the left are the island of _Charki_ (1954 ft.), off its N.W. coast, and then _Telos_ and _Nisyros_ (p. 490). A little farther on we pass through the strait between the _Syrina Group_, on the left, and the islets of _Kandelëusa_ and _Pantelëusa_ (181 ft.; lighthouse), adjoining Nisyros, on the right.

To the W. we sight the double-peaked island of _Astropalia_ (1660 ft.; ancient _Astypalaea_) and _Amorgós_ (p. 417), and to the E. _Cos_ and _Kalymnos_ (p. 490). Beyond the lights on the islet of _Lévitha_ (548 ft.) and beyond _Leros_ (p. 490), at which the steamer calls, the rocky isle of _Patmos_ or _Patínos_ (870 ft.), St. John’s place of exile, becomes more conspicuous.

We next steer round _Cape Papas_, the W. point of the bold island of _Nikaria_ or _Ikaria_ (3422 ft.), and then to the N.N.E. through the _Straits of Chios_, 4½ M. in breadth, between the island of =Chios= (Turk. _Sakis Adasi_; 318 sq. M. in area) and the mainland of Anatolia or Asia Minor. The S. entrance of the straits, beyond _Capo Bianco_ (right; once _Argennon_), is flanked with the islets of _Páspargon_ (lighthouse) and _Panagia_. On the right lies the harbour of _Cheshmeh_, a little town with a mediæval castle.

We now enter the harbour of =Kastro=, or _Chios_ (Xenodochion Nea Chios, a good inn; pop. about 14,000, mostly Greeks), the capital of the island, on the E. coast. Once a most important member of the Ionian league of cities, Chios belonged in the middle ages to the Venetians (1204–1345), and then to the Genoese (1346–1566), and only became Turkish under Suleiman the Great (p. 542). The fruitless Greek struggle for independence ended with the massacre of Chios in 1832. The hill-country of Chios is extremely fertile. A valuable export is the gum of the mastic-shrub.

We next pass close to the _Goni Islands_, lying in front of the bay of _Lytri_ (_Erythrae_), and the _Spalmatori Islets_ (_Œnussae Insulae_), at the N. end of the straits of Chios.

Sail up the _Gulf of Smyrna_, see p. 530.

77. From (_Marseilles_, _Genoa_) Naples to Athens (_and
Constantinople_).

774 M. FROM NAPLES TO ATHENS (steamboat-agents at Marseilles, see p.
120; at Genoa, p. 114; at Naples, p. 137; at the Piræus, pp. 494,
495). =1.= _North German Lloyd_ (Mediterranean & Levant Service, RR.
23, 24, 80) from Marseilles every other Thurs. viâ Genoa (Sat.),
Naples (Mon.), and Catania (Tues.) to the Piræus in 6 days (fare from
Marseilles 180 or 120 marks, from Genoa 168 or 112 marks, from Naples
120 or 84 marks, from Catania 96 or 64 marks).—=2.= _Messageries
Maritimes_ (Marseilles, Constantinople, and Beirut line), from
Marseilles every second Thurs. viâ Naples (Sat.) to the Piræus in 4
days (fare 225 or 150 fr.); also (Marseilles, Constantinople, and
Black Sea line) every second Sat. viâ Kalamata and Canea (p. 415) to
the Piræus in 5 days.—=3.= _Società Nazionale_, lines X and XI (Genoa,
Constantinople, and Odessa line), from Genoa, Tues. night, viâ Leghorn
(p. 143), Naples (Frid.), Palermo (p. 147), Messina, Catania, and
Canea (p. 415) to the Piræus in 11 days (fare from Naples 155 fr. 50
c. or 109 fr.).

From _Marseilles_ and _Genoa_ to Naples, see RR. 23, 24.

From Naples (see R. 27), after half-a-day’s sail, we reach the superb _Straits of Messina_. On the right, at the foot of the _Monti Peloritani_, lie the ruins of =Messina= (p. 156); to the left is _Reggio_ (p. 159); to the S.W. towers _Mt. Ætna_ (p. 159).

The German and Italian boats steer to the S.S.W. to =Catania= (p. 160).

Sailing to the E.S.E., and gradually leaving Ætna behind, we lose sight of land for a whole day. At length, on the left, we sight the _Messenian Peninsula_ of the Peloponnesus, flanked by the _Œnussae Islands_; beyond it, the _Bay of Koronē_, the ancient _Messenian Bay_, runs far inland. We then steer to the E. towards _Cape Taenaron_ or _Matapán_ (p. xxxii), the S. point of the peninsula of _Mani_. To the N.E. looms the bold rocky crest of _Mt. Taygetos_ (7903 ft.), whose top is free from snow in summer only.

Beyond Cape Tænaron the _Bay of Marathonisi_, the ancient _Sinus Laconicus_, opens to the N. We next pass between _Cape Maléa_, notorious for its storms, and the island of _Kythera_ (1660 ft.; Ital. _Cerigo_), and turn towards the N. For a short time we see the mountains of _Crete_ (p. 415) to the S.E. The bleak S.E. coast of the Peloponnesus is now gradually left behind, while to the right a few small rocky islands, belonging to the Cyclades (p. 492), come into sight.

Off _Hydra_ (1942 ft.; lighthouse), near the peninsula of _Argolis_, opens the _Bay of Ægina_, the ancient _Saronic Gulf_. To the left is the island of _Poros_; in the background rises Mt. Hágios Elias (1748 ft.), the highest hill in _Ægina_. On the right, beyond the islet of _Hagios Geōrgios_ (1050 ft.; lighthouse), the ancient _Belbina_, appears the hilly S. extremity of Attica with _Cape Colonna_ (p. 529). The barren rounded hill in Attica, much foreshortened at first, is _Mt. Hymettos_; straight in front of us is _Mt. Parnes_, forming the N. boundary of the Attic plain.

Before us are the ancient _Mt. Ægaleos_ (now _Skaramangá Mts._) and the indented coast of the island of _Salamis_, which appears at both ends to join the mainland. Above Salamis towers the lofty peak of _Geraneia_ in Megaris. A hill jutting into the sea in front of Mt. Ægaleos now becomes visible. This is the _Piraeus Peninsula_ (comp. Map, p. 528). The hill a short way inland is the _Munychia_ (p. 495), and to the right of it lies the shallow bay of _Phálēron_ (p. 528). Between Hymettus and Parnes the gable-shaped _Pentelikon_ appears. We now have a beautiful view of _Athens_; in the centre rises the Acropolis, on the left the monument of Philopappos. The large white building on the right is the royal palace, beyond which rises _Lykabettos_ (p. 528).

As we near the Piræus we observe the rocky islet of _Lipsokutáli_ (_Psyttaleia_; lighthouse), lying off the E. tongue of Salamis, and masking the entrance to the straits of Salamis, the scene of the famous battle of 480 B. C. (p. 506). The steamer rounds the headland of _Aktē_ and slowly enters the harbour of the Piræus.

=Piræus.=—The COMMISSIONNAIRES of the chief Athens hotels come on
board (those of the smaller, only when written for). Arrangements for
landing (boat 1 dr., with baggage 2 dr.) and for a carriage to Athens
(p. 495) had better be left to them. Heavier baggage is briefly
examined at the _Teloníon_, at the S. E. angle of the harbour.

STATION of the electric railway to Athens (comp. p. 503), to the N. of
the town (opposite the station of the Peloponnesus line).

HOTEL. _Hot. & Restaurant Continental_, Karaïskakis Sq., to the N. of
the harbour, R. from 2 dr.; but better quarters are to be had in
Athens.—CAFÉS in and near the garden to the S. of the Dēmarchía, 3
min. to the E. of Karaïskakis Sq., on the harbour.

ELECTRIC TRAMWAYS from the custom-house to the Athens station; from
the station to the Zea harbour; also from the station, from the
harbour (Karaïskakis Sq.), or from the Rue de Socrate to New Phálēron
(p. 528).

STEAMBOAT AGENTS. _Messageries Maritimes_, Vamvakaris, Rue de Miaulis
30 b; _North German Lloyd_, Roth & Co., Rue de Tsamadú 21; _German
Levant_, Frangopulos; _Austrian Lloyd_, S. Calucci, Quai de Tshelebi,
to the W. of Karaïskakis Sq.; _Società Nazionale_, A. Vellas; _Russian
Steam Navigation & Trading Co._, Mussuris.

BRITISH CONSUL, _C. J. Cooke_; vice-consul, _J. Joannidis_.

The _Piraeus_, Gr. _Peiraieus_ (pronounced Piræévs; pop. 71,500), the time-honoured seaport of Athens (comp. p. 506), became a mere village after its destruction by Sulla in 86 B. C., and in the middle ages even lost its name, but within the last few decades has developed into a prosperous town. Its trade now exceeds that of Patras. The harbour, the ancient _Kantharos_, admits the largest vessels. Spacious quays, an exchange, a theatre, wide and regular streets, and over a hundred factories have been constructed.

Its antiquities are few compared with those of Athens. The chief are parts of the fortifications, such as a wall defended by towers, ascending the peninsula of _Eétioneia_, to the W. of the harbour. It is reached from the station in 8 min. by walking round the shallow N. arm of the harbour (the ‘blind harbour’ of antiquity). On the hill it is pierced by a gateway between two round towers.

A broad and easy path ascends the _Munychia Hill_ (280 ft.), to the E. of the town (20 min.), whence we overlook the various basins of the Great Harbour, the round _Zea Bay_ at the S.W. foot of the hill, the _Munychia Harbour_ at the S.E. base, and to the E. of the latter the broad _Phaleron Bay_, where the Athenian ships lay down to the time of the Persian wars. We may return by the Zea Bay, noticing remains of ancient boat-houses at the beginning of the Rue du Serangeion, and regain the station by tramway.

FROM THE PIRÆUS TO ATHENS (5 M.) the electric RAILWAY (p. 503) is the quickest conveyance, but as it lies low and runs through cuttings and tunnels near the city it affords little view.

New-comers had better take a CARRIAGE. The new route (1½ hr.; fare, with luggage, 8–10 dr.), though longer, is in better condition, and is therefore preferred by the drivers. At first running alongside the railway it reaches _New Phaleron_ (p. 528); it then skirts the bay of Phaleron at some little distance from the shore. Later proceeding inland it follows the broad new _Boulevard Syngrós_, which commands an excellent view of the Acropolis and leads in a straight line as far as the Olympieion (p. 509).—The old route (1¼ hr.; fare, with luggage, 6–7 dr.) follows the ‘Long Walls’ (p. 506) which once connected the Piræus with Athens. On the left is _Mt. Ægaleos_ (p. 494), while on the right appears the bay of Phaleron. We cross the generally dry bed of the _Kephisos_ (p. 505), and then pass the limits of the ancient olive-grove that occupies the plain of the Kephisos. Leaving behind a hill which conceals the Acropolis we at once come in sight of the Theseion, the Areopagus, and the Acropolis. The houses of the city, which we reach at the Dipylon (p. 522), all too soon exclude this splendid view. _Athens_, see p. 502.

78. From Venice or Trieste to Athens (_and Constantinople_) viâ Brindisi
and Patras.

FROM VENICE TO THE PIRÆUS (Athens), _Società Nazionale_ (Line XII,
Venice, Brindisi, Patras, and Constantinople), from Venice on Sat.
aft. (returning from Piræus Frid. foren.), to Patras in 4½, to the
Piræus in 5 days (fare 195 or 134 fr.).

FROM TRIESTE TO THE PIRÆUS. =1.= _Austrian Lloyd_ (fast boats to
Constantinople) from Trieste on Tues. aft. (returning from Piræus Sun.
even.) to Patras in 2½, to the Piræus in 4 days (fare to Patras 159 or
109, to Piræus 220 or 147 fr.). Also Greek-Oriental Line (every Sun.
foren.; returning from Piræus Sun. aft.), in 5 days, and Thessalian
Line (Frid. aft.; returning from Piræus Frid. or Sat.) in 6½
days.—=2.= _Greek Steamboat Co. Panhellenios_, from Trieste on Frid.
foren. (from Piræus Mon. morn.) to Patras in 3, to the Piræus in 5
days.

_From Trieste to Patras_, New York Line of the _Austro-Americana_ (p.
425), from Trieste weekly or fortnightly, in 42–46 hrs. (fare 150 or
110 K). Passengers for the Piræus are conveyed through the Corinth
canal by the _Achaia Co._, or they may go on by rail (see below).

Agents in Venice, see p. 420; at Trieste, p. 425; at Brindisi, p. 429;
at Corfu, p. 497; at Patras, p. 501; at the Piræus, pp. 494, 495.

FROM PATRAS TO ATHENS, 137½ M., railway in 7½–9½ hrs. (fare 25 or 18
dr.); express on Tues. and Frid. in 6–1 ‘wagon de luxe’ 33 dr. 40 l.).
As to Greek money, see p. 502.

The Italian steamers (comp. p. 427) from Venice touch at _Ancona_, _Bari_, and _Brindisi_. The Lloyd steamers, except those of the Thessalian line, go direct from Trieste to _Brindisi_ (comp. p. 429).

Soon after leaving Brindisi we steer to the S.E. To the left of the _Straits of Otranto_ (p. 430) are seen the outlines of _Albania_ (Turkey), with the great rampart of the _Acroceraunian Mts._ (6644 ft.). Farther on, in the foreground, lies the island of Corfu. On the right are the Othonian Islands, _Othoní_, _Eríkusa_, _Mathraki_, and the islet of _Diaplo_. At the S. end of the Acroceraunian Mts. lies _Santi Quaranta_, where the Italian steamers call, the poor seaport for Yánina, which is two day’s ride (59 M.) distant.

The scenery of the wide Strait of Corfu (2–4½ M. broad), separating the island from the mainland, is very imposing. To the right towers _Monte San Salvatore_ (p. 500). The town of Corfu, partly hidden at first by the island of Vido, is now revealed. On casting anchor we have on our left the double hump of the Fortezza Vecchia and on the right the dark ramparts of the Fortezza Nuova.

* * * * *

Corfu.

ARRIVAL. Landing or embarking 1½, with heavy baggage, 2 dr. As the
boatmen are insolent, there is no tariff, and great confusion
prevails, the traveller had better allow the hotel-agents who come on
board to arrange for boat, baggage, and carriage, for which a charge
of 3–4 fr. is made in the bill. Passengers who go ashore for a few
hours only may bargain to be landed and rowed back for 1½ fr., payable
on their return.

HOTELS (tariffs payable in gold, see p. 502). *_Hôt. d’Angleterre &
Belle Venise_ (Pl. a), to the S. of the town, high site, with fine
views and garden, R. 3–7, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5 fr.; _St. Georges_ (Pl.
b), on the Esplanade, similar charges.—Unpretending houses, with
restaurants: _Belvedere_, Strada sulle Mura, pens. 7 dr.; the
following are in the Greek style: _Orient_, on the Esplanade;
_Patras_, Nikephoros Street; _Hôt. d’Alexandrie_, R. 2 fr., and _Hôt.
de Constantinople_, R. 3 dr., both near the harbour.

CAFÉS in the Esplanade, at the beginning of the double avenue; cup of
Turkish coffee 20 l.—RESTAURANTS. _Abbondanza_ (Greek), Nikephoros
Street, moderate; _Patras_, _Belvedere_, see above.—BEER. _Dobay_, on
the Esplanade; _Gambrinus_, near the Old Theatre (p. 498).

BANKS. _Fels & Co._ (Pl. 1), Strada sulle Mura; _Banque Ionienne_,
Nikephoros Street, not far from the Esplanade; _Banque
Nationale_.—POST OFFICE, adjoining the Sanità, Nikephoros
Street.—TELEGRAPH OFFICE, near the Banque Ionienne.

STEAMBOAT OFFICES. _Austrian Lloyd_, _Ellerman Line_, Fels & Co. (see
above); _Società Nazionale_ (Pl. 8), G. Topali.—TOURIST AGENCY.
_Hamburg-American Line_, Strada sulle Mura.—LLOYD’S AGENTS, _Barff &
Co._

CONSULATES. British (Pl. 3): consul, _G. Raymond_; vice-consul, _P.
Papadachi_.—United States (Pl. 7): consular agent, _Ch. E. Hancock_.

CARRIAGES. Drives in town or nearer environs 2–3 dr. per hr., as may
be agreed upon; short drive usually 1 fr. Carr. obtained at the hotels
are better but dearer.—BOATS for excursions may be ordered at the
hotels.

MOTOR CARS (belonging to the _Société d’Automobiles_): omnibus daily
to the N. and S. parts of the island, each person 10 l. per kilomètre;
vehicle seated for live 50 l. per kilomètre.

THEATRES. _Teatro Grande_, built in 1895 on the model of San Carlo at
Naples, near the Porta Reale; Ital. opera in winter; _Summer Theatre_,
to the S. of the Ginnasio.

SEA BATHS (80 l. to 1 dr.) and plunge-baths, near Punta San Nicolò.

ENGLISH CHURCH (_Holy Trinity_), service in the season.

_Corfu_, Ital. _Corfù_, Greek _Kérkyra_, the capital of the island of the same name and the seat of archbishops of the Greek and Roman Catholic churches, is one of the wealthiest towns in the Greek dominions (pop. 28,250, incl. 4000 Rom. Cath. and 2700 Jews). The spacious harbour is enlivened by a brisk trade, the chief export being olive-oil. The fortifications constructed by the Venetians, the _Fortezza Vecchia_, picturesquely situated in the sea, on a double rock to the E. of the town, and the _Fortezza Nuova_, on the N.W., are both now unimportant. The narrow streets present a busy scene. The chief languages are Greek and Italian.

_Kérkyra._ Lat. _Corcyra_, the largest (245 sq. M.) and most important
of the Ionian Islands, was supposed in ancient times to have been
_Scheria_, the home of the Phæaci and their king Alkinoos. Having been
colonized by the Corinthians at an early period (734 B. C.), it
developed into a dangerous rival of its mother-city, thus partly
causing the Peloponnesian war. The mediæval name seems to have been
derived from ‘Korphus’, as the old fortress on the two rocks was
called. From 1386 to 1797 Corfu belonged to Venice, from 1815 to 1863
it was under British sway, after which it was ceded, along with the
other Ionian Islands, to the kingdom of Greece.

The island (with 93,860 inhab.) possesses hill and plain, bold rocks
and charming bays on the coast, abundant water-supply, rich
vegetation, and fine old olive forests, which combine to render its
scenery highly attractive. The climate is mild and equable in spring
and autumn. The good roads made everywhere by the British government
add to the comfort and enjoyment of a short stay in the island.

On disembarking we cross the courtyard of the Dogana, turn to the left at the small Hôt. de Constantinople, and follow the _Strada sulle Mura_, which skirts the N. side of the town, affording numerous fine views, and reaches the Esplanade near the royal palace. Or we may ascend direct from the Dogana through the _Strada Nikephoros_, the busy main street, in 5 min. to the Esplanade. Before we reach the Esplanade we pass a side-street on the left with the church of _Santo Spiridione_, and another on the right with the _Teatro Vecchio_, built by the Venetians, now the municipio.

The ESPLANADE, or _Spianata_, lies between the town and the old fortress. On the W. side it is bounded by handsome houses with arcades on the groundfloor. At the N. end rises the—

=Royal Palace=, built in grey Malta stone, at the beginning of the British period, for the Lord High Commissioner, and containing the throne-room and the hall of the former Ionian senate. The entrance is by the W. side-door (gratuity). A marble staircase ascends to the first floor. At the top is an antique lion couchant.—In front of the palace is a _Statue of Sir Frederick Adam_, a much respected Lord High Commissioner of the islands (1823–32).

At the E. end of the double avenue intersecting the Esplanade rises a statue of _Count von der Schulenburg_, who conducted the defence of Corfu against the Turks in 1716, erected by the republic of Venice. Beyond it a bridge crosses a strait to the—

*=Fortezza Vecchia= (adm. on application), which rises on the steep twin-rocks in terraces. The dilapidated buildings are now used as barracks and a military hospital. At the foot of the height is the garrison-church built by the British. The passage opposite the chief entrance gives access to the commandant’s house. We ascend hence to the left, pass through a long vaulted passage, leading straight on to the ramparts, which are overgrown with vegetation, and lastly mount a few steps to the platform on the W. rock (230 ft.; with signalling station and lighthouse). The custodian lends a telescope (25 l.). We enjoy here a superb **View of the town and of the island, from Monte San Salvatore and Capo Cassopetto on the N. to Capo Bianco on the S.; to the E. is Epirus in Turkey, with its lofty mountains.

A broad street descends from the S. end of the Esplanade to the VIALE DELL’ IMPERATRICE ELISABETTA, formerly _Strada Marina_, skirting the shore below the new quarter of the town and now a favourite promenade in the evening. At the beginning of it, on the right, is the _Casino_, with reading and concert rooms. Turning to the right after 4 min., and then to the left, we come to the _Museum_, containing ancient sculptures and tomb-inscriptions. Near it is the round _Tomb of Menecrates_, resembling a well (7th or 6th cent. B.C.). Above is the ruined _Fort of San Salvatore_ (prison).

The boulevard sweeps round the suburb of =Kastrades= or _Garitza_ first to the S. and then to the E. to the Molo protecting the bay. At a bend, short of the molo, we follow the Viale Imperatore Guglielmo Secondo to the right (S.). After 7 min., opposite the apse of the old church of _Santa Corcyra_, we ascend a road to the left. A gate on the left is the entrance to the—

*=Royal Villa of Monrepos= (_Villa Reale_; free on Sun. and Thurs. aft.). The park affords fine views of the town and castle.

The Viale Imperatore Guglielmo skirts the W. slope of the hilly peninsula which stretches to the S., between _Lake Kalikiópulo_ and the sea. Here probably lay the ancient city, with the bay of Kastrades as its trading harbour, while the Lake of Kalikiopulo, now choked with mud, seems to have been the _Portus Hyllaeicus_, used as a station for vessels of war. The road is bordered with rose and orange gardens, and farther on with beautiful olive-groves. In 25 min. (or from the Esplanade in ¾ hr.) we reach a round open space, called the *=Canone=, or _One-gun Battery_ (carr. 5–6 fr.), which commands a superb view of the E. coast of the island.

Opposite, at the entrance to the ancient Hyllæan harbour, lies the
_Scoglio di Ulisse_ (‘cliff of Ulysses’), or _Pontikonisi_ (‘mouse
island’), a cypress-planted islet with a chapel and parsonage, now
owned by an enterprising German. The Greeks took this to be the ship
of the Phæacians which had brought Odysseus to Ithaca, and on its way
back was turned into stone by the angry Poseidon. The S.W. shore of
the Lake of Kalikiopulo, where a brook named _Kressida_ enters the
lake, is pointed out as the place where Odysseus was cast ashore and
met the princess Nausicaa.

The charming drive to _Gasturi_ and _Benizze_ (7½ M.) and back takes 3–4 hrs. (carr. 10–15 dr.; as far as the Achilleion, there and back 2½ hrs., 8–10 dr.). We leave the town by the former W. gate, or _Porta Reale_ and pass through the suburb of _San Rocco_. The road runs a little to the W. of Lake Kalikiopulo and ascends in windings to (5 M.) =Gasturi= (Achilleion, pens. 7 dr.). About ½ M. farther, a little to the left, is the villa *=Achilleion= (adm. to the building and the grounds 11–3, 2 dr.), built in 1890–1 for Empress Elizabeth of Austria (d. 1898), in the Italian Renaissance style, and purchased by the German emperor in 1907. The back of the villa is adjoined by a peristyle and three terraces adorned with statues. On the road, just beyond the villa, is the _Restaurant Bella Vista_. We now descend (short-cuts for walkers) to the (2 M.) fishing-village of _Benizze_, where delicious oranges grow, and where there are remains of a Roman villa (boat to Corfu, 5 dr.)

Another delightful excursion is to _Santi Deca_ (carr. 10–15 dr.; there and back 5–6 hrs.). About ¾ M. short of Gasturi the road diverges to the right from the Benizze road. The drive to the village of _Hagi Deka_ or _Santi Deca_ (‘ten saints’; 676 ft.) takes 1¼ hr. (the walk 2 hrs.). Thence we ascend (guide) the (1 hr.) double-peaked =Monte Santi Deca= (1862 ft.), where we have a superb view, notably of the Albanian coast. A narrow path then descends, the last part through olive-groves, to (½ hr.) _Apano-Garuna_, and proceeds thence to the N. to (¼ hr.) the pass of _San Teódoro_ or _Hagios Theódoros_ (788 ft.), where the carriage quitted at Santi Deca may be ordered to meet us. The drive back to Corfu viâ _Kamára_ takes 1½ hr.

The monastery of =Palæokastrizza= (‘old castle’), on the W. coast,
about 15 M. to the N.W., is a delightful point of view (carr. there
and back 20–25 dr., in 6 hrs., excl. stops). A road diverging to the
right about halfway, 1½ M. beyond the picturesque bay of _Govino_,
crosses the _Pheleka_ and leads over the fine _San Pantaleone Pass_
and through hill scenery to the N. coast. Far to the right, on the E.
coast, rises _Monte San Salvatore_ (Greek _Pantokrator_; 2998 ft.;
ascended with guide in 3 hrs. from _Spartilla_; carr. from Corfu to
Spartilla viâ Giovino, Ipso, and Pyrgi, in 2½ hrs., about 20 dr.).

See also _Baedeker’s Greece_.

* * * * *

As the STEAMER leaves Corfu the picturesque fortress remains long in view. The highest hill on the right is _Monte Santi Deca_ (see p. 499). The strait widens. To the left is the mouth of the _Kalamas_; beyond it tower the Albanian Mts.; on our right is _Cape Lévkimo_. On the left, off _Kavo Aspro_ or _Capo Bianco_, the S. point of Corfu, lie the small _Sybota Islands_, where, in 432 B. C., was fought the great naval battle between the Corinthians and the Corcyræans, supported by the Athenians, which marked the outbreak of the Peloponnesian war.

In 2½–3 hrs., after passing the rocky islets of _Paxos_ and _Antipaxos_, we reach the open Ionian Sea. On the mainland is seen the little town of _Parga_.

We now leave in the distance the Epirote coast, where, off Actium, at the mouth of the Ambracian bay, Octavian’s naval victory over Antony in 31 B.C. gave him the sole supremacy. On the left the island of _Levkás_ (Ital. _Santa Maura_) remains long in sight; its S.W. headland, _Kavo Dukato_, 5 M. long, ends in the _Leucadian Rock_, which once bore a temple of Apollo. Sappho, who loved the beautiful Phaon, is said to have thrown herself from this rock, a leap which was supposed to cure unrequited love.

We round the cape and enter the strait between Levkás and _Kephallēnía_ (Ital. _Cefalonia_). Steering to the S.E., past the E. side of _Ithaca_, we have a good view of its beautiful mountain with a deep depression in the middle. At the entrance to the bay of Patras lie the _Oxia Islands_. Here in 1571 was fought the naval battle of Lépanto, where Don John of Austria annihilated the Turkish fleet.

Nearing _Cape Kalógria_, the N.W. point of the Peloponnesus, we observe to the N., beyond a narrow strip of coast and a large lagoon, the little town of _Misolonghi_ or _Mesolóngion_, where Byron died in 1824. Beyond it rises _Mt. Zygós_ (3107 ft.), the last outpost, to the W., of the high Ætolian range. Next, on the N. shore also, we sight the finely-shaped _Varássova_ (3007 ft.) and _Klókova_ (3415 ft.). In the Peloponnesus, to the S., tower the _Olonos Mts._ (7300 ft.) and the _Voïdiá_ (6322 ft.). Patras, completely surrounded with currant-plantations, becomes more and more distinctly visible.

=Patras.=—ARRIVAL. The steamer anchors in the harbour near the Molo
San Nicolò (examination of luggage at the railway-station, see below).
Landing or embarkation 1, with baggage 2 dr.; but the boatmen usually
try to extort far more. Hotel-boat 2½ dr.—STATION, to the N.E. of the
harbour, 5 min. from the landing-place.

HOTELS (charges should be agreed upon beforehand) all near the
landing-place. _Hôt. d’Angleterre_, R. 2–5, B. 1, déj. 3½, D. 5, pens.
8–12½ fr., well spoken of; _Gr.-Hôt. de Patras_, R. 4, B. 1½, déj. 3,
D. 4, pens. 12½ fr.; between these, _New & Tourist Hotel_, St. Andreas
Street, R. 2½ fr., B. 70 c., déj. 2½, D. 3½, pens. 8 fr., well spoken
of.—CAFÉS-RESTAURANTS at the first two hotels.

POST OFFICE, St. Nicholas Street.—TELEGRAPH OFFICE, in the first
cross-street to the right as we come from the harbour.

CAB. Drive in town 1 dr.—ELECTRIC TRAMWAY in St. Andreas Street,
parallel with the quay, and to the upper town.

STEAMBOAT OFFICES. _Austrian Lloyd_, St. Andreas Street, next the New
Hotel; _Austro-Americana_, _Morphy & Son_; _Panhellēnios_, St. Andreas
St., a little to the W. of the harbour; _Società Nazionale_, St.
Andreas St.

CONSULATES. British (next Gr.-Hôt. de Patras): consul, _F. B. Wood_;
vice-consul, _G. W. Crowe_.—United States (opposite the Gr.-Hôt. de
Patras): consul, _A. B. Cooke_; vice-consul, _H. J. Woodley_.

ENGLISH CHURCH (_St. Andrew’s_), near the station (see above); service
at 11 a.m.

_Patras_, the third town of Greece (pop. 37,700), is surpassed in its trade by the Piræus only. Currants, the staple produce of the Peloponnesus, and wine are the chief exports. The town was destroyed by the Turks in 1821, and after the war of independence was rebuilt with broad and regular streets bordered with arcades.

_Patrae_ first rose to importance under Augustus and afterwards gained
great wealth by its trade. In 1205 the Franks made it their base for
the conquest of the Peloponnesus (Morea). Since the 15th cent. it has
belonged successively to the Venetians, the Pope, the Byzantines, and
the Turks, and since 1833 to the kingdom of Greece.

The main street is that of _Hagios Nikólaos_ (St. Nicholas), leading to the S.E. from the quay. The third cross-street to the right leads to the _Platia Hagios Geórgios_, containing the theatre and law-courts. The second side-street to the left leads to another square with the _High School_, which contains a few ancient sculptures. The first street to the N.E. running parallel with the Hagios Nikólaos Street leads to the _Castle_, once Venetian, then Turkish (now barracks and prison), which affords a fine view of the gulf.

Excursion to _Olympia_ by railway (5 hrs.), see _Baedeker’s Greece_.

The RAILWAY FROM PATRAS TO ATHENS (137½ M., in 6½–9½ hrs.; see p. 496) is preferable to the steamers, as the traveller thus gains several clear hours for Athens. The Corinth Canal is used by the Società Nazionale and Achaia Co. only. The voyage round the Peloponnesus to the Piræus (360 M.) takes more than a day.

The train skirts the narrow S. margin of the *_Gulf of Corinth_, the grand mountains of which recall those of the Norwegian fiords. Between the ruined fortresses of _Rhion_ and _Antirrhion_, a little way from Patras, the gulf narrows to 1¼ M. and soon, near _Naupaktos_, contracts again. 25 M. _Ægion_ (Buffet); 33 M. _Diakophto_, whence a rack-and-pinion line mounts the hills inland. Then, above two deep bays on the N. bank, towers Mt. Parnassus. At the E. end of the gulf lies (81 M.) _Corinth_ (halt of ¼ hr.; Buffet, déj. 4 dr.). In the isthmus of Corinth the train crosses the Corinth Canal (3¾ M. long, 25 yds. wide, 26 ft. deep) by a bridge 170 ft. high, and then skirts the N. bank of the _Saronic Gulf_ (p. 494). On the right the eye ranges as far as the mountains of the Argolis peninsula and Ægina. Beyond (108 M.) _Megara_ we near the N. coast of Salamis. Beyond (120½ M.) _Eleusis_ the train turns inland and passes through the depression between (r.) Mt. Ægaleos (p. 494) and (l.) Mt. Parnes into the Attic plain. Arrival at (137½ M.) _Athens_, Peloponnesian Station, see below (hotel-agents in waiting; carr. 2 dr.).

* * * * *

Most STEAMERS (see p. 501) set out in a W. direction from the Gulf of Patras, holding straight out to Kephallenia and keeping distant Ithaca to the right. They then steer to the S. between the promontory of _Chelonatas_, the W. point of the Peloponnesus, and the island of _Zante_ or _Zakynthos_. Beyond the cape and the little harbour-town of _Katakolo_, the calling-place for _Pyrgos_ and _Olympia_ (p. 501), the coast recedes and forms the sweeping curve of the _Gulf of Kyparissia_; behind rise the heights of the _Lykaeon_ (4659 ft.). Later on we pass the _Strophades_ on the right. At the extremity of the Gulf of Kyparissia the _Ægaleon_ (4003 ft.) marks the beginning of the Messenian Peninsula. The steamers double the S. point and from here to the Piræus their course is the same as that of the Naples boats (see pp. 493, 494).

79. Athens.[8]

STATIONS. _Peloponnesian_ (Pl. B, 1), for Patras, etc., on the N.W.
side of the town.—_Piraeus Railway_, see p. 503.—Tickets also at the
tourist-agencies, see 504.

Footnote 8:

MONEY. Greece belongs to the Latin Monetary Convention. The franc is
called a _drachmē_ (dr.; pl. drachmǽs), the centime _leptón_ (l.;
pl. leptá). The currency is chiefly paper (notes of 1, 2, and 5
dr.), and the chief banks issue also their own notes (for 10, 25,
100, 500 dr., etc.). In nickel there are coins of 5 l. (_pendára_, a
sou or soldo), 10 l. (_dekára_), and 20 l.; in copper, 1, 2, 5, and
10 lepta. The only silver coins of full value are the 5 fr. pieces.
It is safest to decline all foreign silver. The present exchange
(1911) for the English pound is about 25 paper dr., for the gold 20
fr. piece 20 dr.

=Hotels.= At most of the hotels it is usual to arrange for a fixed
charge per day; at the chief English and French are spoken; charges
mostly in gold, that is, in francs instead of drachmæ; charges higher
during the Olympic games. *HÔT. DE LA GRANDE-BRETAGNE (Pl. b; F, 5),
Place de la Constitution, opposite the Palace, R. from 7½, B. 2, déj.
5, D. 6, pens. 17½–30 fr.; *GR.-HÔT. D’ANGLETERRE (Pl. a; F, 5), Place
de la Constitution, cor. of the Rue d’Hermès, pens. 17½–25 fr.;
*PALACE HOTEL (Pl. p; E, 4), Rue du Stade 18, R. 5–10, B. 1½, déj. 4,
D. 5, pens. from 12 fr.; these three are of the first class.—*TOURIST
HOTEL (Pl. t; E, 5), cor. of the Rue d’Hermès and Rue de la Boulé, R.
3–8, B. 1, déj. 4½, D. 5, pens. 10–15 fr.; GRAND-HÔTEL (Pl. d; F, 5),
Place de la Constitution, cor. of Rue du Stade, R. 3–6, B. 1¼, déj.
3½, D. 4½, pens. 8–12 fr.; HÔT. DES ETRANGERS & SPLENDID (Pl. c; F,
6), Place de la Constitution, cor. of Rue des Philhellènes, R. 5–7, B.
1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. 10–15 fr.; *HÔT. DE LA MINERVE (Pl. g; F, 5),
Rue du Stade 5, near Place de la Constitution, pens. from 12 fr., also
R. from 4 dr. out of the season; *HÔT. HERMÈS (Pl. s; E, 3), Boulevard
de l’Université 46, pens. from 10 fr., also R. without board from 3
fr., B. 1 fr. 20 c., déj. 3½, D. 4½ fr.; *HÔT. D’ATHÈNES (Pl. f; E,
4), cor. of Rue du Stade and Rue de Korais, R. 3–6 dr., B. 1 dr. 20
l., déj. 4, D. 5, pens. 10–14 dr., or less for some stay, R. alone,
out of season, from 3 dr.; these three are good second-class inns in
the Italian style, with restaurants; HÔT. ROYAL (Pl. r; F, 5), Rue du
Stade 9, with garden, R. 4–10, B. 1, déj. 3½, D. 4, pens. 10–12 fr.;
HÔT.-PENS. ST. GEORGES (Pl. h; E, F, 5), Rue du Stade, beside the
Parliament House, R. 3–5, B. 1, déj. 3½, D. 4, pens. 8–15 fr.; *HÔT.
IMPÉRIAL (Pl. i; F, 5), Rue Karageorgevitch, R. 2–10, pens. 8–12 fr.;
HÔT. NATIONAL (Pl. q; E, 4), Rue du Stade 30, R. (from 3 dr.) and B.
(1½ dr.) only, good.—In the warm season a mosquito-curtain (kunupiera)
should be asked for.

=Pensions=, recommended for a stay of some time. _Maison Merlin_ (Pl.
G, 5), cor. of the Rues de Kanári and de Sekéri; _Pens. MacTaggart_,
Rue du Stade 12, opposite the Parliament, pens. from 8 fr.; both
English.

=Restaurants.= At the _Hôtels de la Minerve_, _Hermès_, and _d’
Athènes_, see above; also good, in the Rue du Stade: No. 6, _Averof_,
with garden; No. 24, _Cité_, with garden; at corner of the Rue de
Patisia, _Kapsēs_; in Rue de Thémistocle, _Sintrivanēs_. French
usually understood.

=Cafés.= _Zacharátos_, Place de la Constitution, corner of the Rue du
Stade (music on summer evenings); _Zacharátos_, Place Omónia, N. side;
at the _Zappion_ (p. 508), where there is always a cool
sea-breeze.—TEA ROOMS. _Khrysákis_, Place de la Constitution.

=Wine.= _Achaia Wine Co._, Rue de Niké 1 (Pl. E, 5, 6).—BARS.
_Papagiannakis_, Rue du Stade 40; _Apotsos_, Rue du Stade 9; _Skekos_,
Rue Karageorgevitch (Greek beer 30 l. per glass).

The =Water= of the Aqueduct (p. 528) is, especially in the hot months,
not above reproach. The hotels and restaurants supply good water from
the _Marusi_ spring. The mineral waters of _Sáriza_ and _Lutraki_ cost
about 25 l. per half-bottle.

=Cabs.= To or from Peloponnesian Station 2 dr.; short drive in town 1
dr., longer 1½ dr.; to the Acropolis 2 dr.; to the Piræus with luggage
6–10 dr.; drives in town and environs 20–30 dr. per day; per hr. 3,
afternoon 4 dr. (with one horse cheaper). Agreement advisable.

=Tramways= (numbered; fare 10–15, transfer 15 l.; comp. Plan). The
chief lines are: =1.= From _Academy_ (Pl. F, 4) viâ Place de la
Constitution, Amalia St., Rue de Phalère (Pl. D, 8), Tsitsiphiés (on
the coast), and then alternately to the left to _Old Phálēron_ and to
the right to _New Phálēron_; fare 25 l.—From PLACE OMÓNIA: =2.= viâ
Rue du Stade, Place de la Constitution (Pl. F, 5, 6), and Rue des
Philhellènes to the _English Church_ (p. 504); =3.= viâ the National
Museum to _Patisia_ (comp. Pl. E, 1); =4.= viâ the Rue du Pirée,
Dipylon, Theseion Station (Pl. B, 5), Monasteraki Station, and the Rue
d’Athéna to _Place Omónia_; =5.= viâ the Rue Constantin to
_Peloponnesian Station_ (Pl. B, 1).—=12.= From _Place de la
Constitution_ (Pl. F, 5, 6) viâ the Rue des Philhellènes and Boulevard
Olga (Pl. F, G, 7, 8) to the _Stadion_ (Pl. G, H, 8).—=16.= From the
_Academy_ (Pl. F, 4) to the _Acropolis_.

=Electric Railway= to _New Phálēron_ and the _Piraeus_ every ¼ hr., in
18 min. (fare 65 or 45 l., return 1 dr. 15 or 80 l.; to Phaleron 40 or
30, return 75 or 55 l.). Three stations in Athens: _Omónia_ (Pl. D,
3), _Monastēráki_ (Pl. C, 5), and _Theseion_ (Pl. B, 5); fare between
these 5–10 l.; the ticket-clerks speak French.

=Tourist Agents.= _Thos. Cook & Son_, Place de la Constitution, corner
of Rue d’Hermès; _Ghiolman Bros._, _T. D. Ralli_, both same Place.—For
steamboat-agents at the Piræus, see p. 495.

=Banks= (9–12 and 3–5; in summer, forenoon only). _Banque Nationale_
(Pl. D, 3), Rue d’Eole; _Banque d’Orient_ (Pl. D, 3, 4), Rue de
Sophocle; _Banque d’Athènes_ (Pl. E, 4), Rue du Stade 32; _Banque
Ionienne_ (Pl. E, 4), same street, No. 14.

=Post & Telegraph Office= (Pl. D, 3), opposite Banque Nationale.
Letter under 15 grammes within Postal Union 25 l., in Greece 20, in
Athens 10 l.; registration 25 l.; deltarion or post-card, 10 or 5 l.

=Theatres= (Nov. to May). _Royal National_ (Pl. C, 2), Rue Constantin;
_Théâtre Municipal_ (Pl. D, 3). Several summer-theatres.—=Bands= play
every summer evening in the Place de la Constitution, at the Záppion
(p. 508), and at New Phaleron (p. 528). Military band, Place de la
Constitution, Sun. and Thurs. afternoons.

=Photographs.= _Barth & Eleutheroudakis_, booksellers, Place de la
Constitution (Alinari’s and Boissonnas’s photographs, etc.);
_Rhomaïdēs_ (Pinacothèque Hellénique), same square; _Simiriotēs_, Rue
des Philhellènes 2.—REQUISITES: _Tavanakēs & Georgantopulos_, Rue
d’Hermès 12; _Pestarini_, Rue du Stade 2; _Ragnio_, Rue du Stade,
opposite the Parliament.

=Legations and Consulates.= GREAT BRITAIN: Minister, _Sir Francis E.
H. Elliot_, Rue de Dragatsani 8 (Pl. E, 4). Consul, _T.
Cornish_.—UNITED STATES: Minister, _G. H. Moses_, Rue Sina 16.
Consul-General, _W. H. Gale_, Rue Regilles 6; vice-consul, _B.
Melissinos_.

=English Church= (_St. Paul’s_; Pl. F, 6, 7), Rue des Philhellènes,
corner of Palace Garden; chaplain, _W. A. Gardner_, Rue du Lycée 1.
Services at 8 and 10.30 a.m., and 6 p.m.

=Scientific Institutions=, all under supervision of the _General
Ephoros_ or director _Dr. P. Kavvadias_; office in the Ministère des
Cultes, Rue d’Hermès. The _Greek Archaeological Society_, Rue de
l’Université 20 (Pl. F, 4), is the central authority for antiquarian
research in Greece.—_British School of Athens_ (Pl. I, 4), Rue de
Speusippe; _American School of Classical Studies_, same street; also
French, German, and Austrian institutes. _National Library_ (Pl. E,
3); open 19–2, 3–5, and 8–11.

=Collections.= _Acropolis Museum_ (p. 519) and _National
Archaeological Museum_ (p. 526), on week-days from 9 (Dec. and Jan.
10) to 12, and from 3 (Oct.-March from 2, June-Aug. from 4) till
sunset. On Sun. and holidays the National Museum is open 10–12, and
the Acropolis Museum in the afternoon only. Adm. free (sticks and
umbrellas 20 l.).—_Numismatic Museum_ (p. 525), Wed. and Sat. 9 (or
10)–12 and 3–6, free.—_Historical and Ethnographical Museum_ (p. 526),
daily except on holidays, 2–5, adm. 50 l.

=Plan of Visit.= THREE DAYS: 1st. *_Acropolis_ (p. 512), *_Acropolis
Museum_ (p. 519); afternoon, _Lykabettos_ (p. 528).—2nd. *_National
Museum_ (p. 526); afternoon, _Stadion_ (p. 509), _Olympieion_ (p.
509), _Monument of Lysikrates_ (p. 510), _Theatre of Dionysos_ (p.
510), *_Odeion_ (p. 511), _Areopagus_ (p. 512), _Acropolis_ by
sunset.—3rd. _Boul. de l’Université_ (p. 525), region to the _N. of
the Acropolis_ (pp. 520 _et seq._); afternoon, *_Theseion_ (p. 521),
*_Dipylon_ (p. 522), _Hill of the Pnyx_, _Tomb of Philopappos_ (p.
524).

If 1½ DAY only be available we first drive to the _Acropolis_ (p.
512), to which we devote 2 hrs.; then visit the _Odeion_ (p. 511), the
_Theatre of Dionysos_ (p. 510), the _Monument of Lysikrates_ (p. 510),
the _Olympieion_ (p. 509) with _Hadrian’s Arch_ (p. 508), and the
_Stadion_ (p. 509); we then drive past the _Tower of the Winds_ (p.
520), the _Market Gate_ (p. 521), and _Hadrian’s Stoa_ (p. 520) to the
_Theseion_ (p. 521), and if possible also to the ancient _Cemetery
outside the Dipylon_ (p. 523). Lastly, in half-a-day, we may drive
through the _Boul. de l’Université_ (p. 525), glance at the chief
modern buildings, and visit the _National Museum_ (p. 526).

_Athens_ (130–492 ft.; pop. 167,500), modern Greek _Athénai_, lies 3¾ M. from the _Saronic Gulf_, in the great Attic plain, which is closed on the W. by _Ægaleos_ and _Parnes_ and on the E. by _Hymettos_ and _Pentelikon_. The city is bounded on the S.E. by the _Ilissos_ and on the W. by the _Kephisos_. The valleys of these streams are separated by the _Turkovuni_ hills, whose S. spur, the _Lykabettos_, rises abruptly above Athens on the E. A broad saddle separates the latter from the rock of the _Acropolis_ and a group of hills farther to the W.; these include the _Philopappos_ or _Museion_, the _Pnyx_, and the _Nymphs’_ hills, and slope gently down to the sea.

The Athens of antiquity circled round the Acropolis and included the hills on its S.W. and W. sides (see Plan, where traces of ancient walls and the probable direction of the streets are indicated). The modern city extends to the N. of the Acropolis, far towards the plain of the Kephisos. Down to 1834 Athens was a poor village. Now, as the capital of the kingdom of Hellas, it has developed into one of the finest cities of the E. Mediterranean, and is quite European in character.

The main street is the _Rue du Stade_, connecting the _Syntagma Square_ (Place de la Constitution; Pl. F, 5, 6) with the _Omónia Square_ (Place de la Concorde; Pl. D, 2, 3). This street and the broad E. end of the Rue d’Hermès (see below) contain the principal shops. The Syntagma Square forms the centre of traffic. Parallel with the Rue du Stade runs the _Boul. de l’Université_ (_Panepistēmion_), in which the chief public buildings are situated. This new E. quarter, known as _Neapolis_, is adjoined, to the W. of the Rue du Stade, by the older business quarter, the main arteries of which are the _Rue d’Hermès_ (Pl. B-E, 5; p. 520), running to the W. from the Syntagma Square, and the _Rue d’Athéna_ (Pl. D, 3–5), running from the Place de la Concorde to the S. and intersecting the Rue d’Hermès at right angles. Parallel to the latter is the _Rue d’Eole_ (p. 520), which leads to the N., past the National Museum, to Patisia, and is prolonged to the S. to the Tower of the Winds at the foot of the Acropolis. The Piræus is the chief seat of industry and the wholesale trade.

HISTORY. The Athenians prided themselves on being the aboriginal
inhabitants of the country, whose earliest kings are said to have been
Cecrops, builder of the Acropolis, Erechtheus, Pandion, and Ægeus.
Research, however, attributes the earliest settlement on the Acropolis
to the _Pelasgians_, afterwards expelled by Ionian invaders.
_Theseus_, the fifth king, is regarded as the actual founder of
Athens. To him Thucydides assigns the Synœkismos (in 1259 B.C., it is
said) or subordination of all the Attic communities to Athens as their
capital. Originally consisting of the Acropolis only, the city
gradually extended in all directions.

After the self-sacrifice of Kodros (1068 B.C.) the kings were
succeeded by _Archons_, first of the house of Kodros and afterwards
elected from the ranks of the Eupatridæ (landed nobles). Internal
dissensions and the capricious rule of this aristocratic oligarchy led
at the end of the 7th cent. to the codification of the existing law of
Athens by _Drakon_, a measure succeeded in 594 B.C. by the democratic
reforms of _Solon_. Eligibility for the highest offices was henceforth
to depend, not on birth, but on the possession of property and the
payment of taxes (‘timocracy’). The judges were to be chosen by lot,
and a council (Boulē) of 400 members (Bouleutæ) was placed over the
archons as the supreme governing body.

In 561 B.C., however, while Solon was still alive, _Peisistratos_, an
ambitious but humane man and a patron of art, succeeded in usurping
the position of tyrant. He and his sons _Hippias_ and _Hipparchos_
brilliantly developed the city. Roads were made to the various ‘demoi’
or communities of Attica, and a copious supply of water was brought by
a subterranean conduit from Hymettos. The Olympieion was begun, the
ancient temple of Athena on the Acropolis, the ‘hekatompedon’, was
enclosed with a colonnade, and other large buildings were erected. All
this splendour, however, did not compensate for the want of a free
constitution; in 514 Hipparchos was assassinated by Harmodios and
Aristogeiton and in 510 Hippias was banished with the aid of the
Spartans. After further democratic reforms, and after various wars
with adjoining states, which led to the development of the Athenian
fleet, the little Attic state obtained the leadership of the whole
nation in the Persian wars. In order to punish Athens for supporting
the revolt of the Greek towns in Asia Minor (498), _Darius I._, king
of Persia, sent an army of over 200,000 men with a huge fleet, under
_Datis_ and _Artaphernes_, across the Ægean Sea in 490. Contrary to
all expectation the Athenians under _Miltiades_, assisted by the
Platæans only, defeated the immense Persian army on the plains of
Marathon. Even more glorious, and still further confirming the
hegemony of Athens, was the result of the campaign of _Xerxes_ against
Greece in 480. After the heroic resistance of Leonidas and his
Spartans at Thermopylæ had been overcome by the slaughter of the
devoted band the whole of the huge army and armament of the Great King
bore down upon Attica to avenge the defeat of Marathon. The Athenians
took to their ships. The city was occupied by the Persians, the
Acropolis captured, and the temples burned down. But the decisive
naval victory won at Salamis (480), and due to the unflinching courage
and pertinacity of _Themistokles_, broke the power of the Persians.
The citizens had scarcely re-entered Athens when they were again
compelled to retire before the army of _Mardonios_, but their great
victory at Platæa in 479 finally relieved them from the menace of a
Persian yoke.

Having taken the most glorious part in these terrible struggles Athens
now became the natural leader of the Greeks in the war of retaliation.
In 474 this leadership found expression in the foundation of the Attic
and Delian naval league. The zenith of the Athenian power coincided
with the rebuilding of the city, which progressed rapidly in spite of
the opposition of the Spartans. The fortification both of the city and
its harbour, which the genius of Themistokles had removed to the
Piræus, was taken in hand with special vigour, and in 460–445 the
‘Long Walls’ were erected, stretching from the Piræus and from
Phaleron to Athens itself. Next, under the rule of _Perikles_, arose
the magnificent buildings on the Acropolis. A colossal statue of
Athena Promachos in gold and ivory, by Phidias, was erected out of the
Persian booty in 438, when the cella of the great Parthenon also was
probably completed. In 437–432 were erected the stately Propylaea, and
lastly the Erechtheion, begun probably soon after the peace of Nikias
(421) but not completed till 407.

The Athenian democracy had attained its fullest development and its
widest sway when the long-standing antagonism of Sparta led to open
war between the rival states in 431. In the second year of the war
Athens was visited by a terrible plague, which carried off, among many
others, Perikles, the only man of genius powerful enough to control
the democracy, the deterioration of which may be dated from his death.
After many vicissitudes, including the disastrous campaign in Sicily
undertaken by the advice of _Alkibiades_ (comp. p. 163), the
Peloponnesian war ended in 404 with the utter humiliation of Athens.
The fortifications of the city and the Piræus had to be demolished,
the fleet to be given up, and an oligarchic government, that of the
‘Thirty Tyrants’, to be endured at the bidding of Sparta. In 403
_Thrasyboulos_ restored the democracy; in 393 _Konon_ won a naval
victory over the Spartans at Knidos, and rebuilt the Long Walls; but
all this was but a brief and feeble reflex of the ancient glory of the
state. In vain _Demosthenes_ exhorted his fellow-citizens to vigorous
resistance against _Philip of Macedon_; when they at last roused
themselves it was too late. In 338 Greek independence received its
death-blow on the battle-field of Chæronea.

Although Athens never again recovered her political importance her
material prosperity survived almost unimpaired for several centuries
more. In the year of the battle of Chæronea began the judicious
financial administration of the orator _Lykourgos_, who completed the
theatre previously begun on the S.E. slope of the Acropolis, built the
Stadion, and filled the arsenals and harbour of the Piræus with
military stores and with ships. After a fruitless revolt in 322 (the
‘Lamian War’) Athens was garrisoned with Macedonian troops. Yet Athens
continued to live and thrive on the intellectual heritage stored up
within her walls ever since the days of the Persian and Peloponnesian
wars. As the home of the greatest poets of antiquity, as the seat of
the far-famed schools of philosophy and rhetoric founded by Plato,
Aristotle, and Zeno, and as a great centre of art and architecture,
she still had many visitors and admirers. Foreign patrons lavished
gifts upon her or erected sumptuous buildings in the city. To Ptolemy
Philadelphos of Egypt (281–246) she owed a gymnasion with a library,
to the Pergamenian kings handsome colonnades, and to the Syrian king
Antiochos IV. Epiphanes (175–164) the Olympieion.

The dominion of Macedonia was followed by that of Rome, in spite of
the nominal declaration of the independence of Greece made by the
consul Flamininus in 196 B.C. After the overthrow of the Achæan
League, of which Athens was a member, and the destruction of Corinth
in 146 Greece and Macedonia were formed into a Roman province. Athens
had to pay heavily for the ill-considered help it afforded
Mithridates, King of Pontus, who chose Greece as the battle-field on
which to contest with Rome the sovereignty of Asia. The city was
stormed and sacked by _Sulla_ in 86 B.C., and the fortifications of
the Piræus were finally demolished. The city was, however, favoured by
Cæsar and the Roman emperors. The chief buildings of this period are
the Tower of the Winds, the Market Gate owing its origin to donations
made by Cæsar and Augustus, the statue of Agrippa, the round temple of
Roma and Augustus, the new marble steps of the Propylæa, and the
monument of Philopappos.