Chapter XII: Part II: Cooking in the Woods (1)

Cooking in the woods requires more of a knack than equipment, and while a camp stove is well enough in a permanent camp, its weight and bulk makes this article of camp furniture unsuited for transportation by canoe. Patent cooking grates are less bulky, but the woodsman can learn to do without them very nicely. However, the important item which few woodsmen care to do without is the folding baker, or reflector. The baker is folded flat and carried in a canvas case, including baking pan and a kneading board. The largest size, with an 18-in. square pan, weighs about 5 lb., and the smallest, with an 8 by 12-in. pan in aluminum, only 2 lb. In use, the reflector is placed with the open side close to the fire, and cooking is accomplished evenly and well in any kind of weather. Bread, fish, game, or meat are easily and perfectly cooked, and the smaller size is amply large for a party of two or three.

The camp fire is one of the charms of the open, and if it is built right and of the best kind of wood, cooking may be done over it as well as over a forest range. Many woodsmen prefer to build a second and smaller fire for cooking, and although I have never found this necessary, excepting in large camps where a considerable quantity of food must be prepared, the camper can suit himself, for experimenting is, after all, a large part of the fun of living in and off the woods.

A satisfactory outdoor cooking range may be fashioned by roughly smoothing the top and bottom sides of two green logs, and placing them about 6 in. apart at one end and about 2 ft. apart at the opposite end. At the wide end a few stones are built up, and across these, hickory, ash, and other sticks of hard wood are placed. The reflector is placed close to the coals at this end, and the fire is built between the logs, the broiling and frying being done at the narrow-end opening. Woods that burn slowly when green should be used for backlogs and end logs; chestnut, red oak, butternut, red maple, and persimmon being best adapted for this purpose.

The hard woods are best for cooking and heating, since they burn more slowly, and give out considerable heat and burn down to a body of glowing coals. Soft woods are quick to catch fire, burn rapidly, and make a hot fire, but burn down to dead ashes. Hickory is by far the best firewood of the North, in that it makes a hot fire, is long-burning, and forms a large body of coals that gives an even and intense heat for a considerable length of time. Next to hickory comes chestnut; the basket oaks, ironwood, dogwood, and ash are the woodsman’s favorites. Among the woods that are easy to split are the red oak, basket oak, white oak, ash, and white birch. Some few woods split more easily when green than after seasoning, and among them are hickory, dogwood, beech, sugar maple, birch, and elm. The most stubborn woods to split are the elder, blue ash, cherry, sour gum, hemlock, sweet gum, and sycamore. Of the softer woods, the birches make the best fuel; black birch in particular makes a fine camp fire, and it is one of the few woods that burns well when green. The dry bark of the hemlock makes a quick and hot fire, and white birch takes fire quickly even though moist. Driftwood is good to start a fire with, and dry pine knots--the limb stubs of a dead pine tree--are famous kindlers. Green wood will, of course, burn better in winter when the sap is dormant, and trees found on high ground make better fuel than those growing in moist bottom lands. Hard woods are more plentiful on high ground, while the softer woods are found in abundance along the margins of streams.

For cooking the noonday meal a small fire will suffice to boil the pot and furnish the heat sufficient to make a fry. Simply drive a forked stick in the ground and lay a green stick in the fork with the opposite end on the ground with a rock laid on it to keep it down, and hang the pot on the projecting stub left for this purpose. A long stick with projecting stubs, planted in the ground to slant over the fire at an angle, will serve as well. Let the pot hang about 2 ft. from the ground, collect an armful of dry twigs and plenty of larger kindling sticks. Now shave three or four of the larger sticks and leave the shavings on the ends, stand them up beneath the pot, tripod fashion, and place the smaller sticks around them to build a miniature wigwam. While the pot is boiling get a couple of bed chunks, or andirons, 4 or 5 in. in diameter, set and level these on each side of the fire, and put the frying pan on them. When the pot has boiled there will be a nice bed of coals for frying that will not smoke the meal.

When the woodsman makes “one-night stands,” he will invariably build the fire and start the kettle boiling while he or a companion stakes the tent, and as soon as the meal is prepared, a pot of water is started boiling for dish washing.

For roasting and baking with the reflector, a rather high fire is needed and a few sticks, a yard or more long, resting upright against a backlog or rock, will throw the heat forward. When glowing coals are wanted one can take them from the camp fire, or split uniform billets of green, or dead, wood about 2 in. thick and pile them in the form of a hollow square, or crib. The fire is built in the center of the crib and more parallel sticks are laid on top until it is a foot or more higher. The crib will act as a chimney, and a roaring fire will result, which upon burning down will give a glowing mass of coals.

Camp cookery implies the preparation of the more simple and nutritious foods, and in making up a list it is well to include only the more staple foodstuffs, which are known to have these qualities. Personal ideas are certain to differ greatly, but the following list may be depended upon and will serve as a guide.

Provision List

This list of material will be sufficient for two persons on an outing of two weeks. Carry in a stout canvas food bag 12 lb. of common wheat flour. The self-raising kind is good, but the common flour is better. It is well to bring a little yellow, or white, corn meal, about 6 lb., to be served as a johnny cake, hot, cold, or fried mush. It is fine for rolling a fish in for frying. Rice is very nutritious, easily digested, and easy to cook. It is good when boiled with raisins. When cold, it can be fried in slices. About 3 lb. will be sufficient. Oatmeal is less sustaining than rice, but it is good for porridge, or sliced when cold and fried. Take along about 3 lb. About 2 lb. of the self-raising buckwheat flour should be taken along, as it is the favorite for flapjacks or griddle cakes. Beans are very nutritious, and about 2 lb. of the common baking kind will be required, to boil or bake with the salt pork. For soups, take 2 lb. of split peas. They can also be served as a vegetable. Salt pork is a stand-by, and 5 lb. of it is provided and carried in friction-top tins or a grease-proof bag. It should be parboiled before adding to the beans or when fried like bacon. The regulation meat of the wilderness is bacon, and 5 lb. of it is carried in a tin or bag. Carry along 3 lb. of lard in a tin or bag, for bread-making and frying. About 3 lb. of butter is carried in a friction-top tin. For making rice puddings, take along 1 lb. of raisins. About 1 lb. of shredded codfish is good for making fish balls. Other small articles, such as ¹⁄₂ lb. of tea; 1 lb. of coffee; 3 lb. of granulated sugar; 1 pt. of molasses; 1 pt. of vinegar; 4 cans of condensed milk; 1 can of milk powder, a good substitute for fresh milk; 1 can egg powder, good for making omelets or can be scrambled; 1 lb. salt; 2 oz. pepper; 1 package each of evaporated potatoes, onions, and fruits, and 3 packages of assorted soup tablets.

This list is by no means complete, but it will suffice for the average person on the average trip, since the occasional addition of a fish or game will help to replenish the stores. When going very light by pack, only the most compact and nutritious foods should be selected, while on short, easy trips the addition of canned goods will supply a greater variety.

Woodcraft

While shooting and fishing and camping out are chapters in the book of woodcraft, the word is generally defined to mean the knack of using the compass, the map, and in making use of the natural signs of the woods when traveling in the wilderness. If the camper keeps to the beaten paths and does not stray far from the frequently used waterways, he needs no compass, and sufficient knowledge of the ways of the woods may be acquired from the previous articles, but if the outer ventures into an unknown region the value of more intimate knowledge increases as the distance to civilization lengthens, because it will enable him to keep traveling in the desired direction and prevent the “insane desire to circle,” should one discover he has lost the trail.

The Emergency “Snack” and Kit

The woodsman well knows that it is an easy matter to stray farther from camp than he intended to when starting out, and that it is a common enough occurrence to lose one’s bearings and become temporarily lost. To prepare for this possible emergency and spend a comfortable night away from the camp, he carries in his pocket a little packet of useful articles and stows away a tiny package containing a small amount of nutritious food. When leaving camp for a day’s hunting and fishing, the usual lunch is, of course, included, but in addition to this, the woodsman should carry a couple of soup tablets, a piece of summer sausage, and some tea. Wrap this in oiled silk, and pack it in a flat tin box. It will take up very little room in the pocket.

The emergency kit is merely a small leather pouch containing a short fishing line; a few fishing hooks; 1 ft. of surgeon’s adhesive plaster; needle and thread; a few safety pins, and a small coil of copper or brass wire. These articles, with the gun and a few spare cartridges, or rod; a belt knife; match safe; compass; map; a little money, pipe, and tobacco, make up the personal outfit without which few woodsmen care to venture far from camp. In addition to the above, I carry a double-edge, light-weight ax, or tomahawk, in a leather sheath at the belt and a tin cup strung to the back of the belt, where it is out of the way and unnoticed until wanted.

The Compass

A small pocket compass affixed to a leather thong should be carried in the breast pocket and fastened to a button of the shirt. An instrument costing $1 will be accurate enough for all purposes. Many of the woodsmen as well as the Indians do not use a compass, but even the expert woodsman gets lost sometimes, and it may happen that the sun is obscured by clouds, thus making it more difficult to read the natural signs of the wilderness. The compass is of little value if a person does not know how to use it. It will not tell in what direction to go, but when the needle is allowed to swing freely on its pivot the blue end always points to the magnetic north. The true north lies a degree or more to either side. In the West, for instance, the needle will be attracted a trifle to the east, while on the Atlantic coast it will swing a trifle to the west of the true north. This magnetic variation need not be taken into account by the woodsman, who may consider it to point to the true north, for absolute accuracy is not required for this purpose. However, I would advise the sportsman to take the precaution of scratching on the back of the case these letters, B = N, meaning blue equals north. If this is done, the novice will be certain to remember and read the compass right no matter how confused he may become on finding that he has lost his way. The watch may be used as a compass on a clear day by pointing the hour hand to the sun, when the point halfway between the hour hand and 12 will be due south.

The compass needle is attracted to iron and steel, therefore keep it away from the gun, hatchet, knife, and other metal articles. Hold the compass level and press the stop, if it has one, so that the needle may swing free. Note some landmark, as a prominent tree, high cliff, or other conspicuous object lying in the direction of travel, and go directly to this object. Consult the compass frequently when making a detour, or when the landmark passes out of sight. When this mark is reached, select another farther on and continue the travel, always picking out new marks along the line indicated by the compass. When making camp, consult a map, study it, and so gain a good general idea of the surrounding country; and when leaving camp, take the bearings from the compass. By so doing a person will know in what direction he is traveling, and when the course is changed, keep the general direction in mind. When climbing a hill or making detours, take a mental note of the change in direction and the bearings will not be lost.

Maps

The maps of the U. S. Geological Survey are drawn to a scale of 2 in. to the mile and cost 5 cents each. On the back of each map are printed the symbols showing the character of the land, the contours, roads, and all important rivers and lakes in the district. For convenience, the map should be pasted on a backing of cotton cloth and then cut up into handy sections. Number the sections from left to right and paste a key to the pieces on the back of one of them.

Natural Signs

When traveling through underbrush the woodsman cannot see far ahead, and so lays a true course by noting the position of the sun. For example, here in the northern hemisphere the sun rises just south of east and sets somewhere south of due west. Therefore, if a person is going north, he should keep the sun on the back and to the right shoulder in the morning hours; full on the back at noon, and on the back and over the left shoulder throughout the afternoon.

If the day is cloudy, set the point of a knife blade on the thumb nail, twist it around until the full shadow is cast on the nail, thus indicating the position of the sun.

The direction of the wind is apt to change and for this reason is an unreliable guide, while the so-called signs of the woods, such as the tips of evergreen trees pointing north, bark being thicker on the north side of trees, or moss growing thicker on the north side of the trees, are by no means to be depended upon. There is absolutely nothing in these signs. However, every woodsman is aware that the foliage of trees grows somewhat thicker on the south side, and that the branches are rather shorter and more knotty on the north side, but these and other signs are scarcely infallible, and if they were, few tenderfeet would recognize them.

When traveling by night, look for the Big Dipper or Great Bear, as the two end stars are known as the pointers, pointing to the north star.

Marking the Trail

When traveling over old and blind trails, look for the old blaze marks, and if doubtful about them, make new ones by breaking down the brushes every 15 or 20 ft., the bent part pointing in the direction of travel. If a road is encountered, it is easy to tell if it is a tote or logging road, for tote roads are crooked and wind about the trees and rocks, while the logging road is fairly straight and broad. Of course, tote roads lead nowhere in particular, but all logging roads are sure to come to a fork and lead to water. When breaking a new trail, blaze it by taking a single clip from a tree from the side it is approached, and on the opposite side make two blazes, indicating the way from the camp. If this is done, a person will always know the way back if the trail is crossed from side to side. This is the rule of the wilderness, but is not always observed to the letter, for many woodsmen blaze their trail by clipping the trees as they pass them. Be sure to blaze your own trail correctly, and when you come to a place where two roads or trails fork, set a stick to indicate the right direction.

When a person becomes lost in the woods, as every woodsman is sure to do sometimes, sit down and think it over. Many times a person is nearer camp and companions than it is possible to realize, and if a straight direction is taken, a lumber road or a stream will be found that will give one his bearings. Above all, do not become frightened. If the emergency kit and lunch have not been forgotten, a day and night in the woods alone is not a hardship by any means. Avoid wasting energy by rushing madly about and forgetting to blaze the trail that is being made. Bend the points of the brushes down in the direction of travel Do not shoot the last cartridge to attract attention, and do not shout until hoarse. Sit down and build a fire of green wood, damp leaves or moss, so that it will smoke. Build a second fire a short distance from the first. This is the recognized signal of the one who is lost. The afternoon may be windy but the wind is certain to die away at sundown, and the smoke rising from the fires will be visible from a considerable distance. When an Indian gets lost he merely camps on the spot and awaits the next day for picking up the trail.

A Camp Water Bag

While out on a camping trip I devised a way to supply the camp with cool water. A strip of heavy canvas was cut about 2 ft. long and 1 ft. wide, and the edges were sewed up to make a sack 1 ft. square. In the upper corner a large porcelain knob insulator was sewed in for a mouth piece; the groove around it made a water-tight joint with the cloth. Two metal rings were sewed in the cloth at the top for attaching a strap to carry it. The side and top seams were made as tight as possible.

In use this sack was filled with as cool water as possible and tightly corked. It was then hung in the shade where a breeze would strike it. The water gradually seeped through the cloth and this, in evaporating, kept the contents cool. This sack also came in handy while fishing or on the road.--Contributed by Earl Zander, Three Rivers, Mich.

A Mold for Making Hollow Candy Figures

Those semitransparent candies made up in the shapes of animals which are brought out for the holidays and are so dear to the children have caused many to desire to know how they are made hollow. It is a little trick of the candymaker, which is perfectly clear to mechanics. The candies are cast in metal molds just as babbitt bearings are cast for motor cars. One-half of such a mold is shown in the sketch. A concave recess in the face gives the shape of a horse, dog, or sheep, and another half with a similar recess is laid on and located with two dowels. In use the halves are set on a table resting on the back face A, the hot liquid is poured in at B until the mold is full, then it is allowed to set for a minute, during which the portion in contact with the cold metal hardens, whereupon the mold is turned over and the still liquid center is poured out. This leaves a glossy surface like candy, a delight to the child, that saves money for the maker and because of its thin walls makes eating easy.

Ornamenting an Old Tree Stump

An old stump remaining after cutting down a large tree in front of a house was made into an ornamental object in the following manner: A cap was made of concrete, reinforced with a square piece of netting. A concrete vase was made and set on the cap. It is only necessary to make a square box from a few scrap boards of the desired size, built up around the stump top. A neat mixture of cement is made and poured in around it, and allowed to set.

Marker for a Hat

A quick and convenient way of marking a hat is to take a visiting card and cut it down in the manner shown in the illustration, then make two small slits in the sweatband of the hat and insert the ends of the card. If the card becomes soiled it can be easily replaced with another. The address can be added if desired.--Contributed by James F. Hatch, Raleigh, N. C.

A Quickly Made Door Latch

A door latch that is efficient as well as simple may be made by bending a piece of iron rod and pointing one end, as shown in the illustration, then securing it to the door with staples; or small rods may be bent in the shape of a staple and the ends threaded for nuts. The door is locked by turning the handle in the position shown by the dotted lines and securing it with a padlock.--Contributed by Claud M. Sessions, Waynesville, Ill.

An Electric Lure for Fish

Every good fisherman knows that a light will attract fish. A simple light can be made by taking a pint fruit jar, putting a ¹⁄₄-in. hole in the top of the cover, inserting a piece of gas pipe in the hole and soldering it to the cover. Insulated wires are run through the pipe, and a small electric globe is attached to the ends in the jar. The other ends of the wires are attached to a pocket battery. The jar is placed under water and the light turned on, which attracts the fish.

A Table Box for Campers

BY GEO. J. EASTER

A very useful combination packing box and camp table may be made from a coffee or other large box. If a box with a three-ply top is available, it makes a neat appearance, but this is not essential. A box, 14 in. deep, 20 in. wide, and 29 in. long, outside measurements, is convenient, as it will slip under the seat of a spring wagon, and is of such a size that a person’s knees will pass under it when used as a table.

FIG. 2

The Strips in the Corners of the Boxes Form Sockets for the Legs]

Saw the box in two on the center line of the narrow way, making two uncovered boxes of the same size and depth. The corners of each box should be well braced on the outside, as shown at A, Fig. 1. The strips B are fastened to the inside of the box to form sockets, C, for the legs. The strips are ¹⁄₂ in. thick, 1¹⁄₄ in. wide, and as long as the box is deep. Four legs, about 12 in. long and of such size as to fit in the sockets, are used for holding the boxes together in transit. Rope handles are fastened in the ends of each box, and also a hook and eye, which are used to lock them together.

To pack the boxes place one half open side up, and insert the legs, as shown in Fig. 2. Then fill it and extend the packing to the level of the leg ends; slip the other half of the box on the legs, and fasten the two with the hooks. If properly roped, such a box will be taken as baggage. Canvas, and other articles which will be removed at once upon arrival in camp, rather than provisions, should be packed in this box, so that it can be converted into a table with the least possible work.

To make one table, or two, of the box, remove the packing legs and insert long legs in the sockets of each section. A set of eight legs, 30 in. long, take up very little space, and can be carried diagonally in the bottom of the box. A piece of oilcloth can be wrapped around them and used later as a cover for the table. The legs should fit loosely in the sockets to provide for the swelling in damp weather. Ordinarily they can be wedged to make them rigid. The table is shown in Fig. 3.

Each Half of the Box Inverted is Used as a Table Top on the Legs]

Novel Homemade Picture Frames

Pictures can be mounted cheaply and artistically on stiff paper, to make them serviceable for decorating the summer home or camp cottage, without having them placed in a wooden frame. For this purpose a “natural-surface” drawing paper should be used, each sheet being sufficiently large to allow a border all around. With the picture properly centered and marked off, the frame can be fixed. Sets of parallel slots can be cut all around in the border, and a suitable ribbon drawn through so that it is held in place only by the narrow strips of paper. On each of the four corners, a rosette, or similar decoration, can be placed. Ribbons harmonizing with the subject of the picture should be used; for example, a marine scene could have a blue ribbon; fields and brooks, some shade of green; while flowers would probably be best set off by some delicate pink shade.

Another means of decorating the border is to choose some appropriate illustration from a newspaper, or magazine, and carefully trace this outline with carbon paper all around the frame. These figures could then be colored as desired. Profile pictures are best for such work, as they are most easily traced. To be in harmony with the picture, cuts such as captains, sailors, or ships would be suitable for marine scenes; soldiers and guns, for war scenes; and trees or flowers, for landscapes.--Contributed by J. B. Murphy, Plainfield, N. J.

Rectangular Opening to Use over Camera View Finder

Ordinary view finders on cameras, having the cut-out in the shape of a Maltese cross, are quite confusing to some camera users. To overcome this difficulty, I cut a piece of celluloid to the shape shown, and in taking a picture, the proper opening is held over the view finder so that only the view that will appear in the picture can be seen.--Contributed by E. Everett Buchanan, Elmira, N. Y.

Clipping File Made of Envelopes

Handy pockets for holding notes, or small articles, may be made by anyone from ordinary envelopes. The gummed flaps of the envelopes are stuck together after spacing the envelopes to allow a small margin at the end on which the contents of each separate pocket may be written.--Contributed by H. Goodacre, Wolcott, Ind.

Handle for a Drinking Glass

Measure the bottom part of the glass and make a band of copper that will neatly fit it. The ends of the copper can be riveted, but if a neat job is desired, flatten or file the copper ends on a slant, and braze or solder them together.

Attach to the band an upright copper piece a little longer than the glass is high. To this upright piece a bent piece of copper to form a handle is riveted or soldered. The glass is set in the band and the upper end of the vertical piece is bent over the glass edge.--Contributed by William King, Monessen, Pa.

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¶A simple and handy pincushion can be made of a large cork fastened
to any support or base with a nail or screw.

Combination Camp-Kitchen Cabinet and Table

BY J. D. BOYLAN

The combination camp-kitchen cabinet and table is the result of not being able to take the members of my family on an outing unless they could have some home conveniences on the trip, and perhaps the sketch and description may help solve the same problem for others. The table will accommodate four persons comfortably, and extra compartments may be added if desired. The cabinet, when closed, is strong and compact, and if well made with a snug-fitting cover, is bug-proof, and the contents will not be injured greatly, even though drenched by rain or a mishap in a craft.

For coffee, tea, sugar, salt, etc., I used small screw-top glass jars. They are set in pocket shelves at both ends. When closed, one can sit on the box or even walk on it if necessary when in the boat, and if an armful or two of coarse marsh grass is spread over it, the contents will keep quite cool, even when out in the hot sun. When open for use, the metal table top F is supported on metal straps, E, which also act as braces and supports for the table leaf, G, on each side of the box. This affords plenty of table surface and one can easily get at the contents of the cabinet while cooking or eating. The legs, D, are stored inside of the box when closed for traveling. They are held in place under metal straps when in use, and held at their upper ends by the metal plate and blocks, B and C. The bent metal pieces, A, on the ends of the top, spring over the blocks at B and C, and form the handles.

A Homemade Life Buoy

A serviceable circular life buoy may be made by sewing together rings of canvas, filling the resulting form with ground cork, and waterproofing the covering. Cut two disks of canvas about 30 in. in diameter, and cut out a circular portion from the center of each, about 12 in. in diameter. Sew the pieces together at their edges, leaving a small opening at a point on the outer edge. Fill the cover with cork used in packing grapes, and sew up the opening. Paint the buoy thoroughly, with white lead, and attach hand grips of rope.

Locking Device for Latch Hook on Gate or Door

The troublesome opening of a latch hook on a gate or door, permitting intruders to enter or possibly injuring the door in the wind, can be easily overcome by fitting a small catch over the hook, as indicated in the sketch. The U-shaped locking device is cut from a piece of tin, and fastened on the screw over which the hook is set. When locked, it is pushed back over the head of the hook, and cannot be easily jarred out of place.

A Vanishing-Cuff Parlor Trick

A trick which is interesting and amusing for the entertainment of the home audience, is performed with a derby hat and a gentleman’s cuff. The effect is produced as follows: The performer takes the derby from his head and shows that it is empty. He removes one of his cuffs and drops it into the hat. He tips the hat over so that the spectators can see the inside, and the hat appears empty. He then shakes his arm, and the white cuff reappears, whereupon he places the hat back on his head. The explanation is simple: The white cuff, dropped into the hat, contains a false cuff link, and the inside of the cuff is painted black. A thread holds the cuff in shape until the latter is dropped into the hat, when the thread is broken without the spectators being aware of it. The cuff just fits into the hat, and its ends are deftly snapped beneath the hatband, the hat thus appearing empty. The duplicate cuff is kept on the forearm of the performer, and with a shake, slides into place.--Merritt Hale, Hartford, Conn.

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¶A little fresh developer added occasionally to old developing
solutions will bring them up in speed and intensity.

Inexpensive Table Lamp Made of Electrical-Fixture Parts

A small table lamp that is light and easily portable, can be made at a cost of less than $1 from electrical-fixture parts, either old or purchased at a supply store for the job. The base is a bracket, with its brass canopy inverted, as shown. The upright is a ¹⁄₈-in. brass pipe, and it is fitted to a standard socket. The shade holder can be made complete from a strip of tin and two wires; or adapted from a commercial shade holder used for candlesticks. Various types of shades, homemade if desired, can be used.

Wire Holders Keep Cabinet Doors Open

Doors of cabinets often have an annoying tendency to swing shut when articles are being removed from the shelves. To overcome this trouble with a kitchen cabinet, I fitted brackets of No. 9 gauge wire into the sides of the cabinet, the wire being bent to the shape shown in the sketch. When the doors are to be held open, the wires are slid forward from their original position, as indicated by the dotted lines, and set in front of the doors. Before the doors are closed, the wires are quickly snapped back into place.--A. S. Thomas, Amherstburg, Ont., Canada.

“Switchboard” Protects Milker from Cow’s Tail

A simple and effective device for guarding a person milking a cow from being hit in the face by the cow’s tail is made of a board, about 10 in. wide and 5 ft. long. This is hung by two wire hooks from a long wire running lengthwise of the stable just over the front edge of the gutter. It is moved along with the milker and effectually protects his face while milking. The device was made by a Wisconsin farmer after nearly losing the sight of an eye in being hit by a cow’s tail. He tried tying the tails of the cows while milking them, but found by actual test that some cows dropped down as much as 25 per cent in milk production when their tails were tied. The “switchboard” gives the cows the necessary freedom.--D. S. B., Wisconsin Live Stock Breeders’ Association.

Reflected-Light Illumination with Homemade Arrangement

“Friend wife” does not complain any longer because of poor light over the kitchen stove. The windows in the kitchen were so disposed that the light was partly shut off from the stove by the person standing before it. I solved the difficulty in this way: A small window was cut directly back of the stove, in a partition between the kitchen and an adjoining storeroom, locating it just a few inches above the top of the stove. A mirror was placed, after some experimenting, so that the light from an outside window in the storeroom was reflected through the small window in the partition and onto the top of the stove. Plenty of light was thus afforded. Various adaptations of this arrangement may be worked out.--F. E. Brimmer, Dalton, N. Y.

Bedroom Shade and Curtains Arranged for Thorough Ventilation

Curtains, shades, and similar fixtures, often interfere with the proper ventilation of sleeping rooms. By arranging these features as shown in the sketch, the ventilation is not interfered with, and the shades and curtains give the same service as with the usual arrangement. The curtains are hung singly on hinged bars, which may be homemade or those used as towel bars. Details of the supports, at A and B, are shown in the sketch. Two pairs of fixtures are provided for the shade, permitting it to be lowered at night, with free circulation of the air at the top and bottom. The shade is quickly raised, and the curtains swung into their closed position.--J. E. McCoy, Philadelphia, Pa.

Coffee Grinder Repaired with Rubber Faucet Plug

A rubber piece that held the glass container on a wall coffee grinder wore out, so that the glass would not stay in, putting the grinder out of commission. The piece worn out was a thick rubber washer, tapered at one end to form a hollow in the other, when in place. I cut a section from the thick end of a standard rubber faucet plug, and shaped it to the form of the desired washer. By removing the old rivet carefully, I was able to use it in fixing the new washer into place, and the mill was soon grinding merrily, as of old.--M. T. C., Chicago, Ill.

Coal Hod Made from Iron Pipe

When my coal hod became worn out, I made one of a length of 8-in. galvanized-iron pipe, and found it to be handier and stronger than the kind I had used. I fitted the pipe with an iron handle and with a bail of strong wire, set in metal eyes riveted to the pipe. The upper end was cut to the curved shape shown, and the lower end square, and holes were punched along the edge for fastening it with nails to the double bottom of wood. Three wooden pads were set under the bottom, so that the hod stands easily on a spot that is not quite level.--T. E. Roberts, Toronto, Canada.

Frayed Shoe Laces Repaired with Pitch or Wax

When the tag or end fastening comes off of a shoe lace, take a little black sealing wax, and press it carefully around the end of the lace and shape it to a point. This will last a long time, and does away with the annoyance of frayed lace ends.

An Enameled Armchair Made of Wooden Strips

An armchair suitable for a dressing table was made by a handy woman from pine strips. The photograph shows the simple and pleasing lines of the construction. Aside from the board seat, only three sizes of wood are used, 2 by 2 in., 1 by 2 in., and ¹⁄₂ by 2 in. The pieces are fastened with screws, round-head brass ones being used at exposed points. The seat is wider from side to side than from front to back. Two coats of white paint and one of white enamel give a good finish.

The dimensions may be varied to suit individual needs. Sizes suggested are: back, 32 in. high and 24 in. wide; side, 26 in. to top of arm and 19 in. wide; seat, 17 in. from floor, 18 in. from front to back, and 20 in. wide between the front supports. The stock is all planed up square to dimensions, and sandpapered smooth. The ends should be cut squarely in a miter box, with a fine-toothed saw, and then sandpapered smooth, taking care not to round the ends.--A. May Holaday, Chico, Calif.

A Curling-Iron Heater

Heating of curling irons is a not uncommon source of fires, and to minimize this danger, an electrical heating device is valuable. In the arrangement shown, a long candle-shaped incandescent lamp is mounted in a suitable can, or metal tube, to form the body of the heater. This should be bright, both inside and out, and preferably nickeled. Two irons can be heated by setting them in the holes in the top. Four small brackets, soldered, as shown, around the edge of the can, hold it to the base. A porcelain lamp receptacle is used, mounted on a base block. Stain, fill, and finish the wood as desired. In assembling the parts, screw the receptacle to the base, and connect the flexible cord through a suitable hole. Screw in the lamp, and fasten down the body.--John D. Adams, Phoenix, Arizona.

A Stepmother for Incubator Chicks

The best imitation mother hen for incubator chicks that we have found, is built by attaching rag strings to the bottom of an inverted cracker, or similar, box, which accommodates 2 doz. chicks. The rag pieces are torn 1 in. wide, from coarse cloth or gunny sacking, and their loose ends just touch the floor. They are placed close together. An inlet to the mother box is cut in the edge of it. The chicks huddle in among the string rags, keeping safe and warm, whereas without such an arrangement, they may crowd together too closely, and some of them be smothered.--J. Cecil Alter, Salt Lake City, Utah.

A Cardboard Writing and Drawing Pad

Where neatness is desired in the writing of themes, manuscripts, etc., especially if sketches are set into the copy, a homemade writing and drawing pad is useful. The one shown in the sketch can be made easily, and is a handy device for school children as well as older persons. The paper is placed under the guide strips, as shown, and is moved along under the sliding straightedge as desired. Drawing instruments can be used handily along the straightedge, as indicated. The pad is built up as detailed in the sectional views. The general dimensions can be varied. The bottom piece is ¹⁄₈-in. cloth board. The second layer is ¹⁄₃₂ in. thick and of cardboard; the next is ¹⁄₁₆-in. cardboard, and the upper layer is ¹⁄₈-in. cloth board, similar to the straightedge. The latter rests on the projecting guides for the paper, and is set between the shaded sidepieces.--R. S. Edwards, Walla Walla, Wash.

Homemade Shoulder-Pack Tent

BY J. D. BOYLAN

After sleeping under various kinds of canvas coverings and not finding any of them entirely to my liking, I made the tent shown in the illustration, which proved quite satisfactory. It is of light weight, easily set up or taken down, and when buttoned closely is practically rain, wind, and bug-proof. The cost of materials necessary for making it is comparatively slight. I use it not only as a sleeping tent but also as a carry-all in packing camping equipment. The canvas is supported by frames made of pliable branches cut in the woods.

The layout for the canvas is shown in the detailed drawings. The sections for the ends are made of three pieces, one for the ground and two, divided vertically, for the end covering. The ground section of the main portion of the tent and the covering are made in one piece, 6 ft. wide, joined at the middle, as shown. The adjoining edges A are sewed together and the edges B, which are set at the ridge of the tent, are sewed, after the other pieces are joined. Brass grommets are fitted in the canvas, as indicated, and the points of the supporting frames pass through them in driving the supports into the ground. The shoulder straps C are placed so that they are in position when the tent is folded, and rolled into a pack. Other equipment may be placed inside of it. The tent supports D are pointed at the ends E, and are twisted together at the top. The ridge pole F steadies them and holds the canvas at the middle.

To set up the tent, lay the canvas flat on the ground and place the supports, twisted together, through the grommets. Spring them into the ends of the canvas, and insert the ridge pole by springing it between the supports. The canvas is 8-oz. duck, and the fastenings used are snap buttons; buttonholes, buckles, or harness snaps may also be used.

Kitchen for Hikers

BY PRESTON HELLER

With a view to provide all the needs of a commissary department for 36 boys for a period of four days, either on a hike or in a permanent camp, the kitchen illustrated was constructed. As it is placed on two wheels, which are removed when the kitchen is in use, it can be moved from one day’s camp to another by attaching it to the rear of a horse-drawn wagon by means of a shaft. When the wheels are removed the entire outfit rests on legs, which are swung down from the bottom. The sides and one end are opened by swinging one half up and resting it on the top, while the other half swings down to a horizontal position where it is used as a work board, making all parts easily accessible.

The outside dimensions of the kitchen, when closed and in the form of a large box on wheels, are 5 ft. 3 in. long, 3 ft. wide, and 2¹⁄₂ ft. high. The main feature of this entire kitchen is its compactness. At the front, and extending about 1 ft. back, is a kitchen cabinet where the plates, sugar, salt, flour, etc., are kept in separate compartments. Here also are found the necessary cooking utensils, such as bread knives, butcher knives, cleaver, cooking spoons, pancake turner, sieves, large forks, lemon squeezer, etc.; and on the shelves of galvanized iron small boxes and packages of baking powder, cocoa, etc., are placed. This entire compartment, as well as all others where food is handled and prepared, is lined with No. 28 gauge galvanized iron which makes sanitation a feature also.

Upon passing around to one side there can be seen a large three-shelved oven, 21 in. wide, which is heated by a gasoline burner. Between the burner and the bottom of the oven are located coils of pipe for heating water, and these coils are connected with a tank of 7-gal. capacity, located just above the oven. An air valve and glass gauge are attached to the tank.

The next compartment to the rear is a large storage space, extending all the way through the kitchen, and a 2¹⁄₂-gal. forged-copper gasoline tank occupies a shelf in the upper portion of this space. At the rear end along this side are located nickelplated faucets which are connected with the hot-water tank mentioned; a 7-gal., white enameled milk tank above; an 18-gal. cold-water tank, and an ice-water tank, used when distilled-water ice can be secured. These faucets all drain into a small sink, which, in turn, drains off through an ordinary sink drain to a hole dug in the ground beneath it. Practically the entire rear end of the kitchen is occupied by the large water tanks, ice box, and milk tanks, with the exception of a small space at the bottom where the silverware is kept in a drawer.

On the other side, and to the rear, two compartments above and below the large water tank form excellent storage space for ham, bacon, sausage, preserves, butter, etc., which need to be kept in a cool place. Next in line is the other end of the large storage place which extends through from the other side. Pans, pails, canned goods, larger packages, etc., are kept in this space.

Immediately to the rear of the kitchen cabinet, on this side, are located compartment shelves where the tin cups are kept, and adjoining this is found a three-compartment steam cooker. By having the cups and plates near this steam cooker, which is also heated by a gas burner, there is less danger from rust, as they are kept thoroughly dried. Wherever there is a gasoline burner the compartment in which it is located is not only lined with galvanized iron, but asbestos in sheets is placed on the inner side, so that the heat will not ignite the interior packing or the woodwork. The tanks are accessible from the top of the kitchen for filling and cleaning, and are packed with ground cork.

The kitchen has shown its efficiency by giving satisfactory service in camps of many members.

Hungry Campers Quickly Provided For from the Compact, Easily Transported Kitchen, Shown with Supply Cabinets on Left and Utensil Cupboards on Right

The Kitchen Outfit Compacted into Its Cabinet, Mounted on Wheels and under Transport

The Portable Kitchen Outfit Opened, Exposing the Various Compartments Arranged So as to Be Convenient: Above, Stove and Cooking Compartments; Below, Pantry Compartment and Space for Utensils]

Bird House Made of Kegs

Two ordinary nail kegs, or other small kegs, will make a good bird house. They should be mounted on a square post with braces of light wood, as shown. The openings for the entrance can be cut in the ends or sides, as desired. If cut in the sides, be sure to make the hole between two staves.

A Drinking-Glass Holder

To make a glass holder quickly, shape a wire as shown in the sketch. The wire should be of sufficient size to hold the glass firmly. It is fastened to the wall, or support, with a screw and a staple.--Contributed by Edwin P. Stott, Chicago, Ill.

Needle Threader for a Sewing Machine

The threader consists of two brass pieces riveted together so that they will make an extension conical hole for the thread to enter freely. The length of the pieces should be such that when the upper end of the threader is placed against the needle-holder end, the conical hole will coincide with the hole in the needle. A piece of thin sheet metal is placed between the pieces above the conical hole to make an opening below for the thread to pass through when the threader is removed. The opposite edges of the brass pieces from the large part of the conical hole are filed to a bevel so that when they are riveted together they will form a V-shaped groove to center the needle.--Contributed by Harriet M. Kerbaugh, Allentown, Pa.

Winding Coiled Springs

When a helical spring is needed badly, one can be made up quickly by winding the wire around in the threads of an ordinary bolt. An accurate spring can be formed, and the pitch between each coil will be exact for the entire length. In removing the spring from the bolt, grasp the coil in one hand and turn the bolt with the other.

Revolving-Wheel Ruling Pen

A ruling pen that will do neat work and not leave any ink on the ruler, and which with its small ink fount draws many lines at one filling, can be made from an old discarded revolving-wheel glass cutter. A ¹⁄₈-in. hole is drilled in the body, or handle part, just above the wheel. The hole is filled with a piece of felt--a piece cut from an old felt hat will do--rolled to fit snugly, so that it will bear lightly against the wheel. The felt is soaked with the ink to be used, and the pen is ready for use.--Contributed by Bert Fish, Rochester, N. Y.

* * * * *

¶An excellent method of closing a crack in a wall before papering is
to paste a thin strip of linen over the crack. This not only makes
a smooth job, but prevents the paper from tearing, should the crack
widen.

A Portable Folding Boat

BY STANLEY L. SWIFT

A boat that is inexpensive, easily made, and readily transported is shown in the illustration. Since the bow section folds inside of the stern portion, it is important that the dimensions be followed closely. The material used is ⁷⁄₈-in. throughout.

Make a full-size diagram of the plan to determine the exact sizes of the pieces. Brass screws are best for fastening this type of work, but copperplated nails may be used. Tongued-and-grooved stock is best for the bottom. The joints should not be driven together too firmly, to allow for expansion, and all joints in the boat should be packed with red lead or pitch.

The adjoining ends of the sections should be made at the same time, to insure a satisfactory fit when joined. Braces are fixed into the corners.

Metal straps hold the sections together at the bottom of the hinged joints. These should be fitted so that there is little possibility of their becoming loosened accidentally. The front end of each strip is pivoted in a hole, and the other end is slotted vertically on the lower edge. Their bolts are set firmly into the side of the boat, being held with nuts on both sides of the wood. A wing nut, prevented from coming off by riveting the end of the bolt, holds the slotted end. Sockets for the oars may be cut into hardwood pieces fastened to the gunwales. The construction of the seats is shown in the small sketch at the left.

Nontangling Pasture Stake

An old carriage wheel and axle were used to good advantage in the making of the pasture stake shown in the sketch. When the animal tethered to the wheel walks around the stake, it is practically impossible for the rope to become tangled, as the wheel revolves on the axle.--Contributed by W. F. Quackenbush, New York, N. Y.