Chapter IX: Part I: Kinds of Canoes

The charm of the birchen canoe has long been sung in verse and prose, and while the bark that the Indian used has been supplanted by a more perfect type of modern manufacture, the popularity of this, the most graceful of water craft, has increased with years, until today we find the canoe the choice of thousands of recreation seekers who paddle about in park lakes and quiet streams, or spend their vacations in cruising down rivers and other attractive waterways--sometimes within the environs of towns and villages, and again dipping paddles in the wilderness streams of the far north. True, the modern canoe is a distinct product of the twentieth century, and while it is so largely used at summer resorts, it nevertheless retains all the good points of the old, while embodying numerous improvements which fit it even better for wilderness travel than the Indian model after which it was patterned. The noteworthy increase in the number of canoeists in the past dozen years is good evidence that this natty craft is fast coming into its own, and as more and more outdoor men and women understand its possibilities and limitations and become proficient in handling it, the long-rooted fear and distrust with which the uninformed public regard the canoe, will pass away. As a matter of fact, accidents ever follow in the wake of ignorance and carelessness, and while there are very few expert gunners injured by firearms, and still fewer experienced canoeists drowned, there are numerous sad accidents constantly occurring to the reckless and foolhardy, who do not know how to handle a weapon, nor understand the first thing about paddling a canoe. Let us consider then, the practical side of the subject, the choice of a suitable canoe and the knack of handling it in a safe and efficient manner.

If one would experience in full measure the many-sided charm of paddling, he should get a good canoe. Unlike other and heavier water craft, the canoe is a lightly balanced and responsive conveyance, which may be cranky and dangerous, or safe and stable, according to the model, the skill of the builder, and the dexterity of the paddler. There are canoes and canoes, of varying models and sizes, and constructed of many materials, and while all may serve as a means of getting about in the water, the paddling qualities include numerous little idiosyncrasies which serve to differentiate canoes as well as men. In fact, this light and graceful craft may be properly viewed as the highest type of boat building, since it must be fashioned strong but light; it must be steady when going light; capable of carrying comparatively heavy loads; draw little water, and it must be honestly constructed of good material to stand up under the hard usage which every canoe is subjected to, whether used for summer paddling, or upon long hunting and shooting trips.

Three types of canoes are in common use by experienced canoeists, the birch-bark, the all-wood, and the canvas-covered cedar canoe. The birch-bark, by reason of its rougher workmanship, is slow under the paddle, is easily injured, and it grows heavier and more difficult to handle every time it is used. The all-wood canoe is most expensive to buy, and though swift under the paddle, is too easily injured and too difficult to repair for rough and ready use. The cedar-planked canoe which is covered with filled and painted canvas is for many reasons the best all-around craft-attractive enough for park use, and stout enough for use in rapid water and for cruising in northern lakes and rivers.

How to Select a Birch-Bark Canoe

The Indian-made birch-bark canoe costs about $1 a foot and is fashioned of birch bark over an ash, or spruce, frame. The bark is not nailed to the frame, but is sewed together with boiled spruce, or tamarack, roots, split to a suitable size. To give the proper shape to the canoe a double row of stakes are firmly planted in the ground and the spruce frame is sprung between them. The bark is put on inside out, and the work of sewing together is done while the bark is fresh, or immediately after it is stripped from the tree. The seams are afterward made water-tight by smearing well with spruce gum, which hardens quickly and makes a fairly good joint. The Indian model is a good one so far as the freeboard, width of beam, and flaring stems are concerned, but the curved bottom makes it extremely cranky and dangerous for the novice to handle. Be sure to see that the birch-bark canoe is fashioned with a flat, straight bottom, which makes the craft steadier and less inclined to veer about under the stroke of the paddle. In an expert’s hands the round bottom will be found a decided advantage, making it faster to paddle and more easily turned and steered in swift and rough water. Many prefer the three-piece bottom, but the bottom made of a single piece of bark is stronger and less likely to open up and leak. All birch canoes will warp and twist somewhat, and it is practically impossible to find one that is straight and true. The birch-bark canoe has many limitations and not a few weaknesses, but if one has the good luck to find a good one, and treats it fairly, it will prove a safe and dry craft for many hundreds of miles’ travel. Of course, one must carry a kettle of pitch for making repairs, and be content to travel somewhat slower than with modern canoes, but this may not be a disadvantage. Birch canoes have no seats, as the Indian kneels when paddling, but a low thwart, or seat, is easy to put in at the bow and stern, if one prefers the white man’s paddling position.

All-Wood or Peterborough Canoe

This type of craft is much used in Canada along the St. Lawrence River, and to a much less extent by American sportsmen, owing to its higher cost, and its tendency to break and cause a leak. Of course, the all-wood canoe is a good craft, but everything considered, there can be no question in the minds of canoeists who are acquainted with all types of canoes, that the all-cedar or basswood craft is less dependable than the canvas-covered cedar canoe. The Peterborough type--so called from a Canadian city of this name where many wood canoes are made--with its relatively low ends and straight sides with but little sheer and tumble home, is the model commonly used by practically all manufacturers of the all-wood canoe. While a boat of this kind can be, and often is, used in rough-water lake paddling as well as in wilderness travel, the all-wood canoe is better suited for club use, and in the wider and more quiet-flowing streams and lakes.

The Canvas-Covered Cedar Canoe

The canvas-covered cedar canoe, when rightly made of the best material, is by all odds the best paddling craft afloat, being strong and light, with a hull so smooth that it is swift to paddle, while the mode of construction makes a very stiff craft, which will not warp or twist out of shape. Moreover, it will stand a vast amount of hard usage and abuse, while repairs are quickly and neatly done by the stream side. In the making of a first-class canoe of this type, the ribs are first steamed and then bent and fitted over a solid form; cedar being used for the ribs and planking; spruce for the gunwales, and white ash, or oak, for the stems and thwarts. In a canoe built according to my instructions, each plank runs to the full length of the craft and all are beveled and lapped together, thus making a perfectly smooth and almost water-tight canoe, before the canvas is cemented on its surface. The canvas is thoroughly waterproofed before it is put on, then it is drawn tightly over the planking, and several coats of filler and the final finish of paint are applied, after which it is rubbed down.

The well-made canvas-covered canoe is, if properly designed, a pretty good facsimile of the representative Indian model in that it possesses all the good points of the birch-bark canoe, but is more substantially constructed, of better and more durable material, and more finely finished. In making the selection, it is necessary to pay a fair price to obtain a good craft, and while various manufacturers supply canoes of similar types at different prices, some of them are so inferior that they will scarcely stand a season’s use. Of course, the use to which a canoe is put will influence the selection. If the craft is wanted for long service on hunting and fishing trips, a high-grade canoe of plain finish is the logical choice. If the canoe is for club use, a highly finished craft with mahogany trimmings may be preferred. A canoe for occasional use on some quiet lake or small stream may be selected from the cheaper kinds, which will, no doubt, answer every purpose. However, most manufacturers list what they call an “A” and a “B” grade. The “A” grade provides selected-cedar ribs and planking; oak for gunwales, stems, thwarts and seats selected from the finest material, and the finish the best that can be procured, while the “B” grade is identical in model, canvas and paint, but the material not quite so clear or free from minor defects, though for all practical purposes it will render as much service and give fully as much satisfaction as the first, or “A,” grade. A little saving may be made by selecting the second-grade canoe, having most of the money invested in the canoe and not so much in the finer finishings. The ordinary construction provides for the ordinary solid topwale, but the open gunwale is sometimes preferred, because the openings make washing easy, all sand and dirt running out freely between the wales. This construction detail is supplied by most manufacturers, when specified, at a slight additional cost.

Points to be Considered

The particular shape, combined with the dimensions, of the canoe is commonly called the model, and since many canoe builders offer several different models it is a comparatively easy matter to find a craft which fully meets one’s ideas of a canoe. Canoes can be had as small as 10 ft. long and weighing as little as 18 lb., while others are built all the way up to 35 ft. and ranging around 50 in. wide. For all-around use, that is for cruising, hunting, and fishing, the 16-ft. length, with 32-in. beam, 12 in. deep amidships, and weighing about 60 lb., will meet the approval of the experienced canoeist. In a good canoe of this size a flat floor, medium-high ends, and a fair amount of tumble home--to add stability and keep the water from shooting inboard--may be reckoned the “earmarks” of a general-purpose craft. For exclusive river work, where many rapids are encountered, a lightly rounded bottom, a trifle lower in the center than at the ends, will be easier to handle in white water, while comparatively narrow ends will give more speed under the paddle.

All canvas-covered canoes are provided with brass bang plates, or irons, at stern and bow, and if wanted, an outside keel may be furnished. In most cases this is not essential, but when the canoe is largely used in rocky rivers a broad keel of ¹⁄₂-in. oak, or ash, 2¹⁄₂ in. wide in the center and tapered at both ends to fit the brass bang irons, will protect the bottom from hard knocks. The narrow 1-in. keel is an out-and-out nuisance, making the canoe slow to turn and furnishing but scant protection for the bottom. Any keel adds to the weight of the craft, and weight is a factor that must be considered when much portaging is done. So far as capacity is concerned, a canoe, 16 ft. long, 32-in. beam, and 12-in. amidship depth, will accommodate two men and the usual amount of camp duffle, weighing from 350 to 400 lb. On short trips, a 15-ft. canoe may be made to accommodate two men, while on very long cruises, where a larger amount of duffle must be taken along, an 18-ft. canoe may be needed. For three persons, the 17 or 18-ft. canoe, of 34-in. beam, is about right, but for a party of four it is better to use two 16-ft. canoes than one large craft. In fact, canoes longer than 18 ft. are more properly regarded as freight craft and only used on special trips.

Moccasins, or rubber-soled footwear, are most suitable for the canoeist’s wear, but since heavy-heeled shoes are often worn, it is a good plan to protect the thin planking by running a slatted floor, 8 or 10 in. wide, in the center of the canoe. Provide this grating with brass buttons, and it will be held firmly in place, but removable at any time. For convenience in towing, a small but flexible rope--braided cotton is always soft and pliable--about 20 ft. long, should be tied at both bow and stern. The ordinary “painter eye,” which fastens with a bolt screwed to the under side of the breast hooks, is good, but a small hole, through which the rope is securely knotted, will serve as well.

Paddles

The best material for paddles is good selected spruce, and while this material is not so heavy nor will stand hard knocks so well as maple or birch, its lightness makes it the choice of many paddlers. For rough work the maple paddle may be chosen, and while heavier than spruce, it possesses greater elasticity, and this spring offsets to a great extent the larger weight of material. Cedar, ash, and pine make excellent paddles, and the Indians often fashion them from these woods.

In selecting a single-blade paddle, it is well to remember that the length will depend on the paddler’s height, for it is self-evident that a tall man will require a longer paddle than a short person can conveniently swing. Hence the usual rule is to pick out a paddle as long as the paddler is tall, and is a sensible one to follow, although there are exceptions. Personal preferences differ, and, also, a longer paddle will be required when paddling from seats than when a kneeling position is adopted. For general use, the stern paddle of 5¹⁄₂-ft. length will be long enough, while the bow paddle of 5 ft. will probably suit the average man. Ladies, boys, and girls will need shorter lengths.

The shape of the paddle blades varies somewhat, and while some prefer a broad blade and others a narrow one, it is well to pick out one of medium size. Large blades are tiresome for long trips, while the narrow blade balances best in the hand, but affords less resistance in the water. When picking out a spruce paddle, see that there is plenty of wood at the juncture of the blade and shaft, for it is at this point most paddles break. Spruce being a comparatively soft wood, it will fur badly, and the blades should be fitted with copper tips to prevent splitting. Maple paddles do not need this protection, but most builders err in making them too thick and heavy. Pick out the lightest and thinnest maple paddle that can be found, one that is fashioned of straight-grained wood, and test it for elasticity before making the purchase. A couple of coats of spar varnish will keep the paddles in good shape, but as a varnished surface is hard on the hands, most veteran canoeists varnish the blades and finish the shafts with oil. An extra paddle will, of course, be carried on all long trips.

The single-blade paddle is quite universally used, but the double-blade gives more spread for the lone paddler. Although the double-blade was designed for the “Rob Roy” type of canoe--a one-man craft, decked both fore and aft, the paddler sitting in a cockpit in the center--it is sometimes used for propelling the open Canadian canoe, and when the canoeist travels alone, the double-blade is a good choice, especially on open waters where much wind and high seas are likely to be encountered. Spruce is the best material for double paddles, and 10 ft. is the best length. As all double-bladed paddles are provided with a ferrule, or friction joint, in the center, they may be unjointed and each used as a pair of single paddles. In case the open end of the metal ferrule is objectionable, a wood plug may be fitted to provide a palm grip, similar to the grip of the single paddle.

Portages for Carrying the Canoe

When the weight of the canoe does not exceed 65 lb., it is easily carried by placing the paddle blades over the center thwart, the ends under the next after thwart and lashing them securely in place; then placing a sweater or coat over the shoulder to form a pad on which to rest the paddles to carry the canoe in an inverted position. However, when long portages must be undertaken the “neck yoke,” or the pneumatic canoe yoke, may be used. The neck yoke is fashioned from a block of pine, or other soft wood, to fit the curve of the shoulders, and the ends fit in the grooves made in the gunwales; or small pieces of wood may be screwed to the under side of the gunwale to serve the same purpose. The pneumatic cushion, which fits around the neck and is provided with straps to secure the paddles in position, is well-liked by some canoeists, but the wood neck yoke fits so well that it is hard to find a good substitute. A large and heavy craft can be easily carried by two men by turning the craft bottom side up and resting the weight on the back and shoulders. If the man at the stern lets the gunwale rest on his shoulders and his companion lower the front thwart to rest against his neck and shoulders, both may carry a light pack of duffle and will have a clear view of the trail ahead.

To Practice Batting for Baseball Playing

A boy with a very great desire to make a good ball player found that he could not hit a ball tossed to him. Try as he might, the bat never hit the ball. Some one suggested that a ball hung by a cord would help to a great extent, and it was tried out with excellent results. An inexpensive ball was suspended from the limb of a tree so that it would be at the proper height for the batter. In striking at the ball it was not necessary to make home-run hits, as this is liable to break the cord, or get it tangled to its support. If the strikes are made properly, the ball will swing out and come back in a perfect curve, or can be made to come back bounding and in no straight line. This will teach the eye to locate the ball and make hits where it cannot be taught by having some one toss the ball to the striker.

Making Impressions of Leaves

A very true and artistic impression of a leaf, or similar object, can be made as follows: Grease a piece of heavy writing paper with linseed oil, and smoke the surface well by lighting a small piece of camphor gum and holding the paper over the flame. Place the leaf on the smoked surface of the paper and cover it with several thicknesses of newspaper, then press the leaf into the blackened surface. Remove the leaf and lay it with the blackened surface on a piece of white paper, then cover again with the newspaper and press evenly and thoroughly. A beautiful and permanent impression of the leaf will be transferred to the paper.

Care should be taken not to move the leaf the least bit either in coating it with the smoke or in transferring it to the paper. Be careful not to use too much oil. This process can be used to stamp cloth for embroidery. A candle can be used in place of the camphor if care is exercised, but the camphor gives a very dense smoke with a minimum of heat.--Contributed by J. H. Beebee, Rochester, N. Y.

Making T-Squares

BY J. B. Murphy

The making of a single article of any kind presents a distinct problem in itself, but the production of a large number of the same article must be done in a different way, if efficiency and uniformity in the product are desirable qualities. Taking, for instance, the making of a large number of T-squares, the material is not made up in the same manner as for one. Where a number of these instruments was required, they were made as follows, with no other Equipment than bench tools and a band saw. The squares were made of mahogany having both stock and blade edged with maple. The blades were fastened to the stock with five ³⁄₈-in. button-head screws.

The material for the heads and the blades was glued up and finished to the sizes given at A and B. The material was cut to gauge lines on the band saw, the blades being a scant ¹⁄₈ in. in thickness, and the stocks, ³⁄₈ in. Two of each were cut from each prepared piece, first from one side and then from the other. They were then faced off on both sides, and two more pieces cut. With careful cutting, six blades and six stocks were made from each piece. This left one side of each piece to be planed after sawing. The holes for the screws were drilled with a small hand drill.

For assembling, a jig was made by nailing a piece of stock, ³⁄₈ in. thick, to a straight drawing board. One end of the piece was planed straight and true before it was fastened in place. Stops were provided to locate the stock and hold the blade square with it. Wedges were used to keep both stock and blade against the stops while the screws were inserted. The wedges were not driven with a hammer, but pushed in firmly with the fingers.

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¶Insert a scratch awl in common hard soap for hardening, and it will
need no drawing after the plunge.

by

Stillman Taylor