Chapter XXXIV: Part II: A Netted Hammock (9)

Instead of making golf tees in the usual manner I used the brass end of a shotgun shell, weighted with a small iron ball attached to a string. The device was made as an experiment and proved so useful and convenient to carry that I continued to use it.--Edward Beasley, Texarkana, Ark.

Patching Canvas Bottom of a Canoe

A patch of silk, properly applied makes a good repair for a hole worn through the canvas bottom of a canoe. Loosen the canvas for about 2 in. around the hole and apply thick shellac. Insert a piece of silk in the hole to lap under the edges of the canvas. Permit the shellac to dry slightly and smooth down the patch. Protect the joint further with white lead, smoothing over the patch and painting it when dry.

Handy Tray for Pencils and Penholders

A piece of light cardboard, or sheet metal, may be folded into a neat and useful holder for pens, pencils, etc., on the desk or drafting table. In the latter case a piece of stiff drawing paper folded into V-grooves and tacked to the board, is convenient. For use on a finished surface the folded piece should be pasted on cardboard or otherwise fastened down.--William Robert, Springfield, Mass.

Removing Sag from Couch Spring

A couch spring of the type shown in the sketch sagged considerably, making it ineffective. The sag was taken up by bending the sections of wire with a monkey wrench, so that the entire spring was stiffened almost as satisfactorily as when new. Care must be taken that the wires are bent uniformly so that the strain is evenly distributed.

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¶An eggshell may be balanced on the edge of a knife if the egg is
“blown,” and then partly filled with sand.

An Effective Combination Lock Easily Made

BY E. F. STRONG

The combination lock described has been used for years on lockers and letter boxes in a large public building. The details of a lock with three disks are given, and in Fig. 4 the use of two disks is suggested. The lock is made as follows: From a piece of ³⁄₁₆ or ¹⁄₄-in. hard wood, saw out three disks, A, Fig. 1, from 1 to 4 in. in diameter, according to the size of lock desired. For one with 2-in. disks, as shown, cut slots, B, ¹⁄₂ in. wide and deep, in the edge of the disks. For axles use ³⁄₈ by 2-in. hardwood dowels, C, with a six-penny headless wire nail in one end, leaving about ¹⁄₄ in. of it exposed.

FIG. 2

FIG. 3

FIG. 4

This Wooden Combination Lock Gives Good Service and is Easily Made]

The case of the lock is shown in Fig. 1. It is made large enough to mount the disks, as shown. Around the edges of the inside surface of the lid fasten strips a trifle thicker than the disks. Place the disks in the positions shown, drilling small holes in the baseboard for the nail axles. The bolts, D, and the piece, E, are made of hard wood, fastened with a lap joint. On each side of the bar, D, fasten cleats, F, to hold it in position. The handle, H, moves in a slot in the lid, and is fixed to the bar, E.

The door, or lid, on which the lock is to be used, is provided with openings, J, as shown in Fig. 3. The axles C, project through openings, as bearings. When the windows J, through which the combinations are read, are made, place the ends of the bolts in the slots of the disks and screw the lock in position. Mark on each disk the point exactly in the center of the window, enabling one to work the combination temporarily. To lock the device, push the handle to the left and turn the axles. To unlock it, turn the axles until the pencil marks appear in the middle of the windows, and throw the bolts.

Next make paper dials, K, of a diameter as shown in Fig. 2. Divide the circumference into from 50 to 100 equal parts, according to the size of the dial, and draw radii, as shown. Number at least every fifth point. To the face of each disk, A, with small thumb tacks, fasten one of the dials, placing the combination numbers selected exactly over the pencil marks made in setting the temporary combination. Verify the combination before locking it. Unless the slots in the disks are a little wider than the ends of the bolts, the combination must be very closely adjusted. An aid in setting the combination is a line on the glass or a point of black paper, as shown in Fig. 2. The combination may be changed by setting the dials in new positions. The large number of combinations possible makes it very difficult to obtain the combination. For most purposes, two disks are sufficient in a lock of this kind.

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¶A convenient method of supporting a garden-hose nozzle is to tie a
loose knot in the end of the hose, arranging the nozzle to spray as
desired.

A Simple Metal Bird Basin

A bird basin can be made an attractive feature of a home garden, and that shown in the illustration was made easily of a metal basin and a section of iron pipe. The pipe was sunk in the ground to a depth of 30 in. and loose rock placed around the end of it. A shallow pan, hammered out of a flat piece of sheet metal and provided with a cork stopper, was fixed to the upper end of the pipe. Holes were made in the edge of the pan and strings to support morning-glories were attached from them to a hoop, set in the ground around the pipe. When it is desired to change the water in the pan it is drained off by releasing the cork.--Mrs. F. D. Reynolds, Stevens Point, Wis.

Catch-All Screen inside Hot-Air Register

In order to recover small articles dropped through the floor-register grating of a hot-air heating system without the necessity of removing a section of the pipe, mesh gratings like that shown were fitted into place. Number six gauge wire mesh was used in pieces just large enough to fit into the metal box below the register. Access to the screen may be had by removing the grating--F. M. Ball, St. Louis. Mo.

Practical Uses for Old Button Clasps

Leather and metal-button clasps from suspenders are useful in repairing heavy gloves, large leather cases, and other articles on which the clasps have been lost or worn out. They may be sewed or riveted into place. Attached to straps, they are useful means of making a fastening, and may be applied to leggings, and other parts of outing clothes.

Bark-Covered Porch Light and Plant Shelf

A combination flowerpot holder and reading lamp was made from two pieces of wood, bark, and a lamp socket, and proved to be a good shaded reading light. With a plant in the flowerpot, the fixture was made quite attractive by day. Maple bark, well dried out, was used. A piece of board, ³⁄₄ in. thick, was cut to fit the curve of the bark, and fastened to it. The former was then nailed to another board, ¹⁄₂ by 5 by 14 in., which formed the support for the fixture. A lamp socket was attached and a suitable current source provided.

Removable Headrest for Chair

A convenient attachment for the back of a chair is an extension padded to form a comfortable headrest. This may be made by fixing a padded piece of wood, 6 in. wide and 20 in. long, to the chair back by means of suitable wooden braces, notched to fit the top of the chair.

Rigging Economizes Space in Closet

It was necessary to store a considerable quantity of clothing in a small clothes closet, and the rigging detailed in the illustration was devised, and provided unusual accommodations. Wooden rods, 1¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, were set across the closet at each side of the door and supported on notched blocks, as shown in the detail at the left. The clothes used frequently were supported on these rods by means of hangers. For clothes out of season, or used only occasionally. a special rigging was arranged in the space above the door. A 1¹⁄₂-in. rod was fitted between the walls to slide in a groove at its ends. Strips nailed to the wall formed the groove. Cords, attached to the rod, as shown, and carried to the ceiling, where pulleys were fixed, made it convenient to raise or lower the rod. A sheet was spread over the clothes to protect them.--A. K. Hay, Ottawa, Canada.

Scoop Made of Box End

A scoop that is serviceable for handling various kinds of lighter bulk material may be made by cutting the end from a cardboard box of suitable size and trimming it into shape. A handle may be provided by making a loop of cloth, or flexible cardboard, and fastening it with a paper fastener.

Mechanical Toy Pigeon Made of Wood

When the head of the mechanical pigeon is lowered the tail rises, and the reverse. It is constructed as follows: Make paper patterns for the parts, which consist of two body pieces, a head, a tail, and the foot piece. The shape of the parts is shown in the sketch, the front body piece being removed to show the connections of the rubber and wire controlling the movements. The view above shows the fastening of the parts with nails. The main sizes of the parts, which are made of ¹⁄₈ to ¹⁄₄-in. soft wood, are: head, 1³⁄₄ by 3¹⁄₂ in.; body, 2 by 5¹⁄₄ in.; tail, 1¹⁄₄ by 3¹⁄₄ in.; foot piece, 1³⁄₈ by 1¹⁄₂ in. Mark the shapes on the wood, cut them out, and mount them, with a rubber band connecting the head and tail, as shown. Nail the foot piece between the body pieces, and pivot the head and tail on nails. Connect the head with a wire, having a loop on one end. Make the holder, and cut a slot into it for the draw wire, operated with the finger.--C. C. Wagner, Los Angeles, Calif.

Sportsman’s Cabinet for Guns, Equipment, and Books

The books, magazines, guns, fishing tackle, camera, etc., of the out-of-door man are often kept or laid aside in various places. To provide a good place for such equipment, I made the case shown. What apparently is a neat bookcase when closed, the top shelf used as a magazine rack, accommodates numerous other articles. After the “bookcase” has been examined superficially I open the door, swing the shelves out, and display back of them my guns, hunting togs and outfit. Two small drawers, covered by the upper rail of the door when closed, hold various small articles; and a blind drawer under the door holds shoes and the larger articles. I constructed this combination cabinet as follows: The lumber used was ⁷⁄₈-in. chestnut. The dimensions of the cabinet are 60 by 30 by 14 in. For the back of the bookshelf and cabinet I used matched ceiling. The door casings are 4 in. wide; the sidepieces of the door are 3 in. wide, the top, 4 in., and bottom piece, 6 in. wide. This cabinet cost me less than $3 and does the service of a gun cabinet valued at $30.--F. E. Brimmer, Dalton, N. Y.

A Photographic-Negative Filing System

In order to preserve photographic negatives and to make them easily available, the following homemade system was devised: The negatives are kept in envelopes having a print from the negative therein mounted on the face. A trial, or an inferior, print is used, and shows what negative it contains. Extra prints and enlargements are kept in the same envelope for each negative. On the face, or back, of the envelope is written data, such as name or title of subject, place and date taken, stop and shutter speed used, most suitable printing paper, developer, etc. This data may be kept in the negative envelope on a sheet of paper. This leaves the photograph album free from data that is of no interest to persons viewing the pictures. The envelopes are kept in their original boxes, classified as “Animals,” “Birds,” “Live Stock,” “Landscapes,” “My 1914 Vacation Trip,” and so forth.

Knee-Rest Holder for Milking Pail

Becoming tired of holding the milk pail between my knees while milking, I made a contrivance of strap iron to overcome this. It is arranged so that the milk pail will just fit inside, the curved straps supporting the weight of the pail on the knees. The holder may be made of wood, with the possible exception of the curved arms, which should be made of pieces of iron, ¹⁄₈ in. thick and about 2 wide. The circular frame can be made adjustable to various pails by bolts set in holes in the bands.--J. C. Whitescarver, Miami, Okla.

Tool Sockets in Edge of Drawing Board

Drawing tools, pencils, etc., were kept out of the way on a drawing board by inserting them in pockets drilled in the upper edge of the drawing board. A small brass plate, pivoted on the center, was used to cover each set of two pockets, and the latter were numbered on the upper surface of the board.--Elmer O. Tetzlaff, De Pere, Wis.

Cart for Carrying Huge Drum in Parade

The inalienable right of the small boy to carry the drum in a parade was disregarded when the cart shown in the sketch was made for a large drum. Two rubber-tired wheels were mounted on an axle bent to fit the drum, and curved handles, forming a supporting frame, were fixed to it. The frame was made of hickory, steamed and bent into shape, and the drum was arranged to be quickly dismounted.--W. C. K., Mason City, Iowa.

A Homemade Inverted Electric-Light Fixture

An attractive and serviceable inverted-light fixture for a den and study was made at an outlay of about 30 cents, the details of construction being shown in the illustration. The light is distributed thoroughly, and with a 40-watt lamp is ideal for work at a desk. The lower portion A is a tin washbasin, costing 10 cents, and the part C is a cup-cake pan, costing 5 cents. The rim B is made of ⁵⁄₈-in. wood, 13 in. in diameter, and the disk E, 10 in. wide, is the round block cut from the center of the rim B. The uprights D are made of ³⁄₈-in. dowel rods and of a length suitable to the height of the room. They are glued and toenailed to the rim and disk. F is a cup-cake pan, and G is a drawer knob, fastened to the pan F. These parts can be omitted if desired. They are fastened to the top with wood screws.

The light socket is supported in a metal strap, H, having a rounded offset to match a bolted clamping strip. The inside of the basin, being tinned, acts as an excellent reflector. All parts except the inside of the pan are enameled white. The fixture is fastened to the ceiling with screws through the disk.--A. F. Krueger, Champaign, Ill.

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¶The gummed portions of unsealed envelopes are often useful when a
gummed strip is desired.

Laying Out a Horizontal Sundial Plate

To make a sundial accurately it is necessary to lay out the lines for the particular locality where it is to be used, as a dial will vary slightly according to the latitude. The parts may be made of wood, metal, or stone. A good method is to have a bronze casting made from a wooden pattern. The lines may be cut with a lathe and planer in a machine shop, or engraved by hand.

Lay Out the Dial Plate Symmetrically, Allowing Space for the Style]

The illustrations show how the dial is made. The lines, as indicated in Fig. 1, should be laid out very carefully, first on a pattern. Draw a horizontal line near the top which represents the six-o’clock line, A-VI, in Fig. 2. Then lay out another line AH, at right angles to A-VI. Take a point C at any convenient place and construct the right-angled triangle ABD. The angle CAB should be equal to the degree of latitude of the place. The angle CBD equals CAB. Take a compass and set it to a radius equal to the side BD, and draw the quadrant DF from E. From D draw the line DG out for same distance and parallel with A-VI. Now divide the quadrant DF into six equal parts. Draw the lines E1, E2, E3, etc., and where they intersect the line DG, draw the lines from A, as A-I, A-II, A-III, etc. These are the hour lines. Divide each of the six divisions of the quadrant into four parts, and draw the lines, as shown between the 3 and 4 divisions. These are the 15-minute parts. Each of these parts may be divided in turn, and this is best done by eye, unless the dial is quite large.

FIG. 3

Diagram for Marking the Dial and Making the Style]

This will complete one-half of the dial. The other half is done in the same manner, leaving a space between the line AH and its corresponding line for the other side of the dial. This space should be equal to the thickness of the upright shadow-casting piece, or style. The style has its base equal in length to the line AH, and its angle, S, equal to the latitude, or the angle CAB. It is mounted in the space with the high end at 12 o’clock. It may be fastened to the dial with screws passing through the base. Mount the dial horizontally on a suitable pedestal. The style should be exactly north and south, with 12 o’clock toward the north. The dial will be fast or slow over clock time. This is corrected by consulting an almanac and setting the clock accordingly from the dial. A correction plate may thus be made and mounted on the pedestal.--F. B. Walters, Baltimore, Md.

Homemade Roadster with Motorcycle Engine

By mounting a 5-hp. motorcycle engine on a frame built of 2 by 4-in. stuff, and rigging the outfit on running gear made of gas-pipe axles, old buggy springs, and motorcycle wheels, I made the light roadster shown in the photograph, at small cost. It develops 30 miles an hour easily, carrying only the driver, and has carried five persons. The frame is suspended from the springs, with an underslung effect, on the front axle. The power is transmitted by a friction drive, consisting of a fiber contact pulley, obtained from an old commercial car, and a disk used as a cutter on a plow.

The front axle is of 1-in. gas pipe fitted with suitable-size solid nipples, and washers, at the bearings. The steering knuckle was made of steel shafting turned down to fit a pipe tee, set in the axle. The drive shaft is ⁷⁄₈ in. in diameter, and has a ball thrust bearing on the end. Sprocket gearing gives a ratio of 6 to 1, on high speed.--E. L. Munsen, La Conner, Wash.

Mending Aluminum Cooking Utensils

Holes in aluminum ware may be mended by plugging them with rivets as follows: Make a rivet of lead or solder, and enlarge the hole to fit the rivet tightly. Insert the rivet from the inside and back it with a piece of hard wood, or metal. Rivet the other end to fill the hole and lap over it slightly. Suitable rivets may be made by cutting a lead wire, about ³⁄₄ in. long, and of the desired diameter, on which a head is formed by riveting down the end. The wire is set in a hole in a block during this operation.--L. C. Burke, Madison, Wis.

Feeding Cards into Typewriter

Trouble is sometimes experienced in feeding cards into a typewriter, and this may be overcome by providing a paper sheet as a leader. Run the sheet of paper into the machine and feed the card in after it, lapping their adjoining edges. This prevents the edge of the card from catching on the rolls.

A California Bungalow for Canaries

An outdoor birdhouse, which has proved popular in various sizes, especially for canaries, is that with a bungalow roof, and sides of wire netting, as shown in the photograph reproduced. While a number of these houses were made in a workshop to order, the construction is so simple that boys will find considerable fun in making them, especially in framing the roof. The house shown is 18 by 28 in., and 14¹⁄₂ in. high to the eaves strip. The body of the house is made in two side and two end frames, fastened at the corners with screws. The wire is put on the frames before assembling them. A small, sliding door, of wood and wire, is provided, or one end may be made in two frames, one of which is hinged for a door. The eaves should extend at least 2¹⁄₂ inches.--H. L. Coolidge, Pasadena, Cal.

Homemade Device Aids Blind Person in Writing

To assist my father in writing, notwithstanding his blindness, I made the machine shown in the illustration. It has been in use two years, and proved thoroughly practical. It consists of a board, ¹⁄₂ by 11 by 13³⁄₄ in., on which the paper is held by a clip. Two stops, A, insure a good alinement of the sheet. A T-square, B, slides in a groove at the left side; the upper edge is beveled. At a distance of ³⁄₄ in. from this edge is stretched a brass guide wire, C, by means of which the height of the script is gauged. The wire is supported on brass strips, D. When the line is written, a pin, E, set in one of a row of holes in the groove F, is raised, the T-square moved, and the pin inserted in the next hole below, giving the correct spacing. As the wire does not touch the paper, either ink or pencil can be used. The board consists of four pieces, glued, and fastened with screws, as detailed.--Arthur E. Tremaine, Brookline, Mass.

Making Cardboard Tubes for Electrical Coils

It is often difficult to obtain cardboard tubes as foundations for coils of special sizes, and the following is a practical method for making them as desired: Cut a strip of cardboard somewhat wider than the length of the tube desired and about 2 ft. long. Soak the cardboard in water until it is quite pliable. Wrap it tightly around a wooden rod of suitable size, gluing or shellacking each successive layer. When the desired thickness has been obtained, bind the tube with string, and place the whole in a moderately warm oven to dry. The tube may then be cut to length.--Alexander V. Bollerer, New Britain, Conn.

An Army in a Small Box

A play device that will afford much amusement and which is interesting for boys to make is that shown in the sketch. To make the peephole cabinet, obtain a box of suitable size; fasten a piece of looking-glass inside, at each end. Make a peephole at one end of the box, and rub the silvering from the back of the looking-glass at the hole. Place a few metal soldiers, horses, etc., along the sides of the box 1 or 2 in. apart, one being set to hide the reflection of the hole. By looking through the hole an endless army may be seen. Light is provided through the skylight at the top, which is fitted with ground glass or tissue paper. This device perplexes most persons who are not familiar with its construction.--James E. Noble, Portsmouth, Canada.

Liquid-Filled Tray Carried Safely

In photographic work, and in the shop or laboratory, chemicals carried in shallow trays are easily spilled. In photographic work, especially, this endangers materials used, as the spilled liquid dries and dust affected by it may spoil chemicals with which it comes into contact. The tray should be carried in a larger pan or basin partly filled with water, thus keeping the tray level.

Making an Umbrella Handle Detachable

A parasol or umbrella with a detachable handle is a great convenience in packing when traveling, and a handle may be made detachable as follows: Remove the handle by using a block of wood and a hammer. Clean out the hole, and polish the steel stem with emery, as far as it goes into the handle. Cut off 1 in. from the end, and then solder a section of brass tubing into this piece, and another section into the end of the stem. The abutting ends are then tapped to fit an 8-32 screw, which is then soldered into the shorter piece, as shown. The latter is pushed into the handle, and a hole, ¹⁄₁₆ in. in diameter, is drilled almost through the handle. A piece of wire nail is driven into this hole. By making the screw fast in the handle rather than in the stem, the threads are protected, and the length when taken apart is correspondingly reduced.--John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.

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¶To renew a typewriter ribbon, roll it on a spool and apply a very
small drop of glycerin at intervals of several inches, with a
fountain-pen filler, and permit the glycerin to soak in thoroughly.

Boys’ Athletic-Equipment Locker

The boy should have a place in the home for his sports togs and equipment, and a cupboard like that shown can be made easily for the purpose. Its size will depend on the quantity of articles to be stored. A good size is 12 by 30 in., by 5 ft. high. Plain boards are used, and for the door they are fastened together with cleats and screws. The drawer is convenient but not essential.--J. D. Hough, Toledo, Ohio.

Wire Compacts Bristles in Polish or Stencil Brushes

The bristles of brushes used for applying shoe polish and for painting through stencils often curl so much that the brush becomes almost useless. In order to overcome this I bound the bristles with several turns of wire and soldered them into place as shown. When desirable, part of the wire may be removed by cutting it at the solder.--Hugo Kretschmar, West Nyack, N. Y.

Old Table Used as Wall Workbench

Good use was made of an old table, one leg of which was broken, by removing two of the legs at one side and fitting the table against a wall. A wide board was set on the back edge of the table, against the wall, and provided a rack for tools. A drawer was fitted into the front of the table, and a small iron vise was clamped at one end. The arrangement provided a convenient bench for home shop work.

Lettering Photo Prints without Marking Negative

Instead of scratching titles on photographic negatives, which often produces a poor result, a good method is to write the title on the sensitive paper with black ink before printing. Care must be taken not to scratch the paper. The toning and fixing baths wash away the ink, leaving the script or lettering white. The negative is thus unmarred.

Rope Pad Prevents Slamming of Door

An antislam pad, made of a piece of rope and fixed to the knobs of doors, is in general use in a large hospital. The device is made by forming loops on the end of a short section of rope, as shown, and fitting them over the door knob. This also prevents the closing of the door so that a patient may be heard in calling an attendant.--C. M. Hall, St. Louis, Missouri.

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¶Curtain rollers should be arranged so that the direction of pull on
the tacked edge of the curtain is away from the end.

Box to Protect Extra Spark Plugs

Damage often results to spark plugs which are thrown in the tool box of an automobile, and the use of a small case for the extra spark plugs is desirable. Partitions may be fitted into an old box of suitable size, or a case may be specially made. That shown was designed to provide for six spark plugs in a minimum of space. It was made of ¹⁄₄-in. wood, and of a length so that the spark plugs could be slipped in the recesses only by turning the faces of adjoining plugs together. A hinged cover keeps them firmly in place.--E. R. Mason, Danville, Ill.

Homemade Spring Wagon Seat

Two ⁷⁄₈-in. boards, 12 in. wide, between which two 12-in. pieces of 2 by 4-in. wood are bolted, provide a strong spring seat for a wagon. The boards are cut to a suitable length, and the 2 by 4-in. pieces are set near the middle, and about 8 in. apart. This gives a spring seat at each end of the device.

Cushioned Chair Made of a Barrel

A strong barrel may be made into a comfortable chair by cutting it halfway through at the middle and shaping the remaining upper portion into an arm and back rest. Holes are bored at the seat level and at the back, and wires woven through them to form a backing for excelsior-stuffed cushions.

Bicycle Fitted Up to Resemble Motorcycle

The boy who cannot own a motorcycle but who has a bicycle, may remodel it to resemble a power-driven machine by fitting it up with equipment, much of which can be made in the home workshop. The illustration shows how an ordinary bicycle was improved by several practical fittings. The lower end of the mudguard of the rear wheel was extended to form a clip, for the homemade stand A. Brackets were made of strap iron to support the bundle carrier B, the basket of which was made of wood. The tank C, 3 by 3 by 21 in., with two compartments and doors, contains batteries and tools. It is fastened to the frame by means of two bolted straps. The bracket D was made of strap iron, to support the electric headlight E. The handlebars were extended, as shown at F, and the horn G was provided. The seat post was lengthened by welding a piece to it, and reversed, as at H. A tail light, J, and a pump, K, held by straps, were provided, and the front mudguard was fitted with a leather piece, L, shaped as shown in the front view.--P. P. Avery, Garfield, N. J.

Toy Submarine Made of Shade Roller

The submarine shown really goes, and was made of a bit of tin, some lead, a few brads, and an old window-shade roller, with a good spring. The spring is the submarine engine. Saw off the roller 3 in. beyond the inner end of the spring, and shape it like the bow of a submarine. Flatten a piece of lead, and fasten it to the bottom of the boat for a keel. Experiment until the keel is of the right weight, and in the proper place, permitting the boat to move evenly, just below the surface of the water. For the propeller, cut a 2-in. tin disk as shown, and bend the blades into shape. In the center make a hole to admit the end of the spring, to which it is then soldered. Wind up the “engine” by turning the propeller. The shade-roller spring can also be used for other toy craft.--E. P. Sullivan, Arlington, Massachusetts.

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¶Rub powdered graphite on rubber and asbestos gaskets so that they
may be removed easily when desired.

Simple Machine for Transmitting Writing

An interesting and novel construction for amateur or boy mechanics is a telautograph or writing telegraph machine. The instruments, as shown, are duplicates with the exception of the placing of the rubber bands. They can be made in different sizes, and satisfactory results were obtained by making the base 7 by 12 in., the arm B 5 in. long and ³⁄₄ in. wide, and the triangle C 6 in. by 3¹⁄₂ in. A hole is bored in the arm B, slightly smaller than the pencil to be used and a slot sawed from the edge to hole, so that when the pencil is forced into the hole it will be tightly gripped, as at A. The arm B is fastened to triangle C, to move freely. The triangle is fastened to the base, and can also move freely. The rubber bands D are stretched tightly to hold the moving parts in position. The strings E should be strong, and stretched taut.

The larger diagram shows the instruments placed in parallel position. The smaller diagram shows how they can be placed one above the other. An unruled pad is fastened to the base of each instrument with thumb tacks. The operation may be traced by noting the successive action of the parts when the pencil on the pad at the left is moved in writing a message. The pivoted triangle communicates the action to the string E, which actuates the other triangle and its lever system. The rubber bands serve to steady the action. The instruments may be arranged a short distance apart for play or experimental purposes or set in rooms on different floors, by making suitable pulley connections for the cords E.--William Freebury, Buffalo, N. Y.

Diagonal Corners on Disk-Record Covers

Having been bothered with the edges of square paper covers of disk records curling, making it unhandy to place them in a file, I remodeled them as shown in the sketch. The covers without the lower corners were so convenient that I made others by folding and pasting paper of the shape shown in the pattern. It was found desirable to use a good quality of paper for the new envelopes as this gave added protection.--J. H. Moore, Hamilton, Ontario, Can.

Live Poultry Weighed Handily in Funnel Scale

A deep funnel, or cone, made of sheet metal and attached to an ordinary platform weighing scale or a draw scale, is useful especially in weighing live poultry. The fowl is placed in the funnel head first and remains quiet while being weighed, which is not the case in most common methods of weighing. The funnel is mounted on three legs, for use on a platform scale, and suspended from a ring by chains, from the hook of a drawspring scale.--C. W. Reemtsen, Des Moines, Ia.

Transferring Pictures to Glass

The surface of glass on which pictures are to be transferred must be thoroughly clean. A coat of nearly colorless varnish is applied, and permitted to dry overnight in a room free from dust. Wet the picture, soaking it in clear water for about 10 minutes. Place it on blotting paper with the front side down, leaving the back wet. Varnish the glass again, and place the picture face down on the varnished surface, pressing out the bubbles, working from the center out. Rub on the back of the transfer paper until the picture is transferred to the varnished surface, and remove the paper carefully. Permit the picture on the glass to dry, and then varnish it.

An Order-Memo Device for Delivery Routes

A milk driver who had many extra orders of milk and cream to deliver had considerable difficulty in keeping track of the orders. He overcame this difficulty by the use of a clip attached to the steering wheel of his truck. He got a spring clothespin, wired one side of it to one of the spokes of the steering wheel, and now places his extra orders in a ring attached to the clip, as they come on his route. When he makes a delivery, he moves the memo on the ring, bringing the next order before him. This method can be used in many other businesses, where articles such as newspapers are delivered on routes.--Francis W. Nunenmacher, Berkeley, California.

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¶To counteract mildew on canvas, coat the parts with soap and rub
well with powdered chalk or whiting.

Model Paddle-Wheel Boats

FIG. 3

FIG. 2

The Rubber-Band Motor is Wound Up at the Crank, and Propels the Boat About 20 Feet]

Only a few boys have ponds of their own, in a pasture, perhaps. But there are miniature lakes in our city parks, pools at our summer camps, and old water holes in the woods; if all of these fail, a boy can still sail his ships on the bathtub sea. A simple side-wheeler, built of wood, is shown in the sketch. It winds up with a crank and runs 15 to 20 ft. A float is made by pointing the ends of a thick board, the dimensions of which are given in Fig. 1. On this the paddle-wheel frame is nailed, as shown in the top view, Fig. 1, the side view, Fig. 2, and the end view, Fig. 3. It is made of thin wood. A broom-handle section, just long enough to slip into this frame, is whittled to form a winding drum, and fitted with paddles, wire axles, and a crank. A second shorter section of the broom-handle, set between blocks nailed to the stern, serves as a roller for the rubber bands. These, linked together and tied to a length of heavy cord, as shown in Fig. 1, are fixed to the bow and run over the roller to the drum. The addition of a top, or lid, of cardboard, wood, or tin, and painted to resemble cabins and pilot house, and fitted with masts and a smokestack, completes the model. Fig. 5 shows a similarly built stern-wheeler with the stern-wheel shaft set on brackets.--E. R. Smith, Walla Walla, Wash.

The Stern-Wheeler Is Similar in Construction to the Side-Wheeler as to Driving Mechanism]

A Small Thresher of Practical Use

Buckwheat, oats, wheat, morning-glory seeds, and other grains and seeds, were successfully cleaned with a model thresher of simple design which I made from materials picked up in and around the farm workshop. It is 24 in. high, 14 in. wide, and 3¹⁄₂ ft. long. For a cylinder, I used a roller, 3 in. in diameter and 1 ft. long. The teeth are nails driven spirally about the cylinder in rows that alternate with similar teeth in the concave, the nails being driven ¹⁄₂ in. apart. The fan consists of a small roller upon which four pieces of tin are nailed. The beaters are larger rollers, into which wooden teeth are set. To hold the cylinder, fan, and beaters in place, four posts and two crosspieces were used, as shown.

The power used is an 8-ft. windmill that I constructed, using a buggy wheel as the frame. The cylinder must be run at a fairly high speed, the fan nearly as fast, and the beaters may be run much slower; this is taken care of by the relative size of the pulleys. The screen between the fan and beaters must be of small mesh so that grain will not fall through into the fan chamber. The sieve through which the grain drops must be the proper size for grain, and can be varied for the different kinds of grain or seed threshed. It is better to put only the heads of grain into the thresher, as long straws twist about the rollers. The material to be threshed is fed into the cylinder in the usual manner, and takes its course as indicated by the arrows, the grain falling to the spout at the bottom, and the straw and chaff being blown out at the exhaust for it. Soft wood was used in the construction, ⁷⁄₈-in. stock for the heavier pieces, and ³⁄₈ or ¹⁄₄-in. stock for the other parts. The curved housing for the fan was made of tin. Leather or rope belts, fitted tightly, may be used. The power is applied on the cylinder pulley, hand or other power being suitable.--F. E. Brimmer, Dalton, N. Y.

Moth-Ball Puzzle as Window-Advertising Novelty

A druggist recently puzzled thousands with a novel window display. A small white ball in a 1-in. glass tube, about 10 in. long, displayed in a show window, would sink to the bottom, then slowly ascend, only to sink as before. A sign reading “What Makes It Move?” kept the crowd guessing. The tube was apparently filled with water. The construction is simple. The tube is about three-quarters full of carbonated soda water. The white ball is an ordinary moth ball. The ball sinks, and when it becomes soaked gradually as it lowers, bubbles of gas cling to it, carrying it to the top of the solution. There the gas escapes, destroying the ball’s buoyancy, and causing it to sink again, This process is repeated over and over.--David J. Lonergan, Minneapolis, Minnesota.

Record-Cleaning Pad Fixed to Talking Machine

By providing a practical method of keeping talking-machine records free from dust automatically, as they are played, the life of the record is prolonged and the reproductions are more clear, and free from scratching sounds. A felt pad supported on a fixture made of a strip of brass does the work nicely. The pad is clamped in a clip at the end of the brass strip, and the entire device is held in place by the spring action of the upper clip, which fits over the end of the reproducing arm. The pad or the whole device can be slipped out of place quickly.

Novel Uses for Safety Pins

TIN-PAIL EAR

CARD SUPPORT

SCREEN-DOOR SPRING REPAIR

EYE FOR FISH-HOOK SINKER

HOLDS BUGGY CURTAIN OVER TORN BUTTON-HOLE

SPRING HINGE FOR BOX

DRY-BATTERY CONNECTOR

These Eight Examples of How an Ordinary Safety Pin can be Used for Practical Purposes Are Suggestive of Many Others]

It is surprising to note how many uses can be made of an ordinary safety pin, both as an emergency-repair device, and for other purposes. I found 40 simple uses for safety pins, a few of which are shown in the illustration. Some of the many other uses are as a chain, a candle holder, a spring, a cover holder for a kettle, and as a pencil clip. Most of these can be made by twisting the safety pin with a small plier. By using a cutting plier, many more useful kinks can be devised.--George G. McVicker, North Bend, Neb.

Moving Heavy Objects with a Broom

After trying to move a heavy trunk alone, the attempt is usually given up until some friend can be called in to lend a hand, because a truck or other means of handling such heavy objects is not at hand. An ordinary sweeping broom will serve as a sled to move a stove or similar object in the home without heavy lifting. The straw in the broom is slippery and can be drawn over carpets without injuring them. In handling a stove, the legs must of course be removed, one person drawing the load and the other steadying it.--Samuel H. Avery, Chicago, Ill.

Rear Seat for Motorcycle or Bicycle

A rear seat mounted on a light support that can be quickly attached to a strong bicycle or a motorcycle is handy, and one like that shown in the sketch can be made in the home workshop. The supporting frame, consisting of two main sections forming a fork over the rear axle, and a brace extending to the bicycle frame, are made of ¹⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₄-in. strap iron. The seat and the handlebars are supported on posts of the usual type, flattened at their lower ends, and riveted to the fixture. The lower ends of the fork are bent to form foot rests. The detailed construction of the seat post and the method of clamping the brace at A are shown in the smaller sketches. The fastenings on the seat and handlebar posts are made with rivets or bolts.--P. P. Avery, Garfield, N. J.

Changing Wheels Equalizes Wear on Baby-Cab Tires

The front and rear wheels of a baby cab are usually of the same size and the tires on the rear wheels are worn much more rapidly than those on the front wheels. By changing the position of the wheels, the wear on the tires is equalized, making it unnecessary to renew them until all are worn out.--J. Cecil Alter, Cheyenne, Wyo.

A Craftsman Leather Billfold

BY LIVINGSTON HAVILAND

The making of a billfold is easily within the range of an amateur in leather work, who will observe the instructions carefully. Seal, morocco, pigskin, and ooze sheep are satisfactory. Skiver, or thin leather, and silk moiré make suitable linings. When the processes involved in the making of the billfold are mastered, numerous other small articles in leather will suggest themselves, and can be made similarly.

The finished billfold is shown with the cardcase side up; folded, and with the bill compartment open, in Fig. 2. Begin the making of it by cutting a pattern of stiff cardboard for the main portion, or body part No. 1, as shown in Fig. 1.

Make a second pattern for body part No. 2, as shown in Fig. 1. Trim the leather to fit the patterns, a straight edge of metal being placed over the pattern as a guide for the knife. A close-grained hardwood board, or a piece of sheet zinc, is suitable as a base for cutting the leather.

Cut pieces of lining slightly larger than the patterns. If skiver is used, it must be glued to the leather with a good quality of leather glue, which should be pliable so as not to crack the leather. Do not stretch the lining, but merely smooth it gently, as otherwise it may cause the leather to buckle. Place the glued parts under a light weight to dry. In fitting the silk lining into place, apply a thin stripe of glue around the edges only, and permit them to extend beyond the leather. Then trim them off neatly.

Part No. 1 is to be folded to form the back of the billfold and also the two pockets for cards. The parts are glued as shown in Fig. 3. Weight the billfold and permit the glue to dry. The sewing may then be undertaken.

The neatness of the billfold will depend largely on the care with which the sewing is done, and the finish on the edges. Draw a straight line with a blunt-point tool along the edges to be sewed, ³⁄₁₆ in. from them. Mark the spacing for an inch of the stitches on a strip of paper and transfer them to the stitching line. Punch the holes, making certain that each is made with the awl held vertical, as shown at D. Back the open ends with strips of cardboard when punching holes in them. Heavy, waxed silk of a color to match the leather is used for the sewing. The work may be done by hand without a holder, clamped between two boards. Thread the two needles and start them from the right side, as at E. Pass the needle from the first hole through the second as at F. With the needles then in position, as at G, continue this stitch. Tie the ends of the thread neatly at the end of the stitching. Trim the edges and tool them to a smooth finish with a suitable metal tool, or rod, heated moderately, applying water with the finger tip.

* * * * *

¶The taper of a key is generally ¹⁄₈ in. per foot of length, and keys
having a head are preferable because of greater ease in removing
them. The width of a key is usually ¹⁄₄ the diameter of the shaft,
plus ¹⁄₈ inch.

Lawn Mower Sharpened Efficiently with Simple Rigging

With this device, one can quickly sharpen the lawn mower, or perhaps earn money sharpening the neighbors’ machines. Because several knives in a lawn mower work against the cutting blade, it is difficult to sharpen a mower satisfactorily with a file or stone. A usual method is to reverse the cutting-wheel cogs, turn the mower upside down, and run it backward over the ground. By the use of grinding paste on the cutting blade the cutting wheel tends to sharpen itself. This process can be improved by supporting the mower, as shown at A, the blocks permitting the mower’s driving wheels to rest outside them. A block, B, supports the wooden roller. Remove the driving wheels, and the gears which turn the cutting wheel. Take the gear from one end and put it in the other end, replacing the driving wheel. By revolving the latter backward, the cutting wheel will also turn backward. Apply a paste of emery powder and lubricating oil to the cutting blade, and adjust the blade so that it comes fairly into contact with the cutting wheel. Turn the driving wheel backward, and gradually tighten the adjustment until a good edge on the cutting blade and the knives is produced.

A handle fixed on the driving wheel, as shown at C, makes turning it easier. After sharpening, replace the gears, clean the bearings thoroughly, and replace the driving wheels.--Ed. M. Hawes, Everett, Wash.

Rubber Pads for Opening Screw Watch Bezel

The modern screw case for watches is primarily for the purpose of keeping dust from getting into the delicate works. Unless one is possessed of a strong grip, it is hard not only to set the case tight enough to keep out dust, but also to open the watch when adjustment is necessary. To make this work easy, a jeweler has, as a part of his tool kit, several rubber dies to fit the different sizes of watch cases. He made them from old rubber heels, cut to fit the watch cases closely. Danger of breaking the crystal is also overcome.--C. E. Drayer, Cleveland, Ohio.

Spring Roost Releases Poultry-House Door Latch

Those in the habit of shutting their poultry houses at night to prevent disturbance or loss by night-prowling animals, will be interested in a contrivance that makes this unnecessary. The principle of the mechanism, as illustrated is that the opening to the poultry house is closed after the fowls have gone to roost, and in the morning when they descend from the roost, the door automatically opens, and they are free to go out. The spring door opens inside with hinges at the side, and a suitable bumper. The spring has just sufficient tension to cause the door to open when the catch is released.

The roost is fitted up as shown in the detail. One end is held by a bolt, while the other rests on a coil spring compressed by the weight of the fowls on the roost. A cord is attached at the spring end, passing through pulleys to the door, where it is fastened to the end of the bolt catch. The door is closed after the fowls are on the roost. The spring end is compressed to a level position, by their weight. The instant the birds leave the roost, it rises and pulls the cord, releasing the catch, and permitting the door to open.--George S. Brown, Norwich, Conn.

A Child’s Bell-Ringing Hoop

In making this useful toy, first, a wheel from an old baby carriage was stripped of the tire; then two laths are fastened together at one end, and the wheel inserted between them, at the other end, and held by a bolt. A strong cord was passed around the groove in the wheel, and around a spool, nailed so as to turn on the side of the lath when the wheel is rotated. Driven into the rim of the spool are three nails, which strike against the old alarm-clock bell, fastened as indicated.--W. F. MacGregor, Toronto, Can.

Emergency Camp Stoves Quickly Made

While conducting a boys’ camp in summer we experienced a severe sleet storm. Our tents were not equipped with stoves and I faced a double problem: to keep the boys warm and to keep them contented. The difficulty was solved by having them construct emergency camp stoves, as shown, using iron stovepipe, and other material at hand. One length of pipe is laid under the side of the tent about 4 in. in the ground, as in Fig. 1. An elbow mounted in sod connects with the chimney. A stone at the front of the stove regulates the draft, and stones placed upon the pipe hold the heat. The arrangement diagrammed in Fig. 2 is built with one length of pipe or a stone conduit. A hole is dug into the ground, about 10 in. deep. Over this is placed a pan, and an opening is made at the front for the fuel. The chimney is made of stones and sticks picked up around the camp, and plastered with mud. Coffee may be boiled or small cooking done on this stove.--William H. Leach, Alden, N. Y.

Pruning and Brush-Cutting Knife

With the blade of an old beef cutter and a stout wood handle, I fashioned a brush knife that is superior to a sickle for cutting down heavy weeds. The blade was secured in a slotted handle by a screw and rivet, and the top of the handle wired as an additional security. A blade of this sort is handy, also, for pruning purposes.--J. M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Plier Drives Nails in Backing Picture Frame