Chapter XIII: Part II: Cooking in the Woods (2)

Inkstand Made of a Sheet of Paper

Drawings are not infrequently ruined by the spilling of ink, which might have been averted by the use of the simple inkstand cut from a sheet of heavy paper, as shown in the sketch. The upper illustration shows the method of cutting the paper to fit the ink bottle and stopper, and to produce a pen rack. The device will be found especially useful when materials for drawing are used away from a place especially fitted for the purpose, since the inkstand can be made in a few minutes from material readily available.--Contributed by Henry C. Franke, Jr., Philadelphia, Pa.

How to Wind Wire on Electrical Apparatus

When a beginner, it was the despair of the writer to try to produce in his homemade apparatus the mathematical regularity and perfection of the winding on the coils of electrical instruments in the supply stores, but when he found that this professional and workmanlike finish could be obtained by means of a simple contrivance, and a little care and attention to details before beginning, experimental work took on a new interest.

At the outset let it be stated that wire should never be wound directly on the iron core, not only because it cannot be done satisfactorily in that manner, but for the reason that it is often desired to remove a coil from a piece of apparatus after it has served its purpose. It is therefore advisable to make a bobbin, which consists of a thin, hard tube with two ends. The tube may be easily formed by wrapping a suitable length of medium-weight paper on the core, having first coated it with ordinary fish glue, excepting, of course, the first 2 or 3 in. in direct contact with the core. Wind tightly until the thickness is from ¹⁄₃₂ in. to ¹⁄₁₆ in., depending upon the diameter of the core, and then wrap with string until the glue hardens, after which the tube may be sandpapered and trimmed up as desired.

Where the wire is not of too small a gauge and is not to be wound to too great a depth, no ends will be necessary if each layer of wire is stopped one-half turn before the preceding one, as indicated in the accompanying sketch, and is also thoroughly shellacked. With ordinary care magnet wire may be wound in this manner to a depth of over one-half inch.

The tube having been made ready, with or without ends as may be necessary, the small winding jig illustrated is to be made. All that is essential is to provide a suitable means for rotating by hand a slightly tapering wood spindle, upon which the tube is to be pushed. The bearings can be just notches made in the upper ends of two standards, through each of which a hole is drilled at right angles to the length of the spindle, so that some string or wire may be laced through in order to hold the spindle down. A crank may be formed by winding a piece of heavy wire around the larger end of the spindle. A loop of wire, or string, is to be attached at some convenient point, so that the crank may be held from unwinding while adjusting matters at the end of each layer, or while making a connection. There should also be provided a suitable support for the spool of wire, which is generally placed below the table to good advantage. Much depends, in this sort of work, upon attention to these small details, after which it will be found that the actual winding will require very little time.--Contributed by John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.

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¶A No. 10 gauge shotgun cartridge shell telescoped with a No. 12
gauge shell forms a convenient match safe for campers, or other
persons out of doors, and is moisture-proof.

Hourglass Sewing Basket

Two oblong peach baskets, their bottoms fastened together and the whole covered with silk, formed the hourglass sewing or darning basket shown in the sketch. Square plum baskets and other forms trimmed in cretonne, linen, or inexpensive goods, depending on the intended use, may also be utilized. Ornamental details may be added to suit the individual taste.

The basket was made as follows: The peach baskets were wired together at their bottoms. A piece of silk was cut, wide enough to reach from the top to the bottom of the joined baskets and to permit the folding over of a portion at the top and bottom. One long edge of the piece was glued to the inner edge of the bottom and drawn in around the sides to form neat folds. The upper edge of the silk was then glued in the top, being folded over the edge.

A cord was fixed around the middle of the basket, as shown in the sketch. A lining was glued into the top and bottom. It was folded and stitched along its edges to prevent raveling and to give a smooth finish. The bottom need not be lined, but it is desirable to have it so.

The pincushion was made by padding a block with cotton and then covering it with silk. A cardboard box may be used instead. The cushion was nailed into place from the bottom. Ribbon may be used to draw the silk to the sides of the basket at the middle, and a cushion may be made entirely of cotton or cloth and attached with ribbons.--Contributed by Thomas J. Macgowan, Mount Vernon, N. Y.

A Perpetual-Motion Puzzle

The fallacy of perpetual motion is now so generally understood that the description of a new scheme for attaining it is only justified in so far as it may be instructive. The sketch illustrates such a device, apparently successful, and the discovery of the error in it is both instructive and interesting.

Mount a horseshoe magnet on a wooden base, and into the latter cut a continuous groove along the three sides of a triangle opposite the poles of the magnet, N and S. Suspend a long, narrow bar magnet on a universal joint from a standard. A pin projects into the groove from the lower end, which is its north pole, and can move only along the triangular course.

Start the device with the suspended magnet in the position shown. The lower end will tend to move in the direction of the arrows, because in so doing it is getting farther away from the repelling north pole of the horseshoe magnet and nearer the attracting south pole, which action will bring it to the corner of the triangle in the foreground. It will next move down the side as indicated by the arrow, because along that line it is nearer the attracting south than the repelling north pole. When it reaches the end of its trip, at the angle between the poles of the magnet, the attraction and repulsion will be balanced, but a slight jar will carry the traveler beyond the angle.

The third leg of the triangle will be covered similarly, the north pole repelling the traveler. On this basis the motion should continue indefinitely, but a test will show that it will not do so.

The corners of the triangle should be rounded slightly and it would be better to use several hanging magnets, flexibly connected, so that when one is at the dead center the others will carry the traveler on.

How to Transfer Drawings

Soiling of drawings transferred with carbon paper may be avoided by substituting a piece of unfinished paper, the surface of which has been covered with a thin coating of lead rubbed from the pencil. If any errors are made in the tracing, or undue pressure is applied with the hand, the resulting impressions may be removed readily with an eraser.

If a copy of a drawing is desired, and it is not necessary that the same relative left and right position be maintained, the original pencil drawing may be placed face downward on a sheet of paper and the back of it rubbed with a bone paper knife, or other smooth, rounded object. By going over the impression and making a reverse of it in the same way a copy of the original in the same relations may be obtained.--Contributed by J. E. Pouliot, Ottawa, Canada.

Pivoted Searchlight Made of an Old Milk Strainer

BY JOHN J. SPAULDING

Both as a safety device and a practical novelty, a homemade searchlight for a canoe, or other small craft, is worth while making. An old milk strainer was used for the reflector of that shown, and many equally serviceable makeshifts can be devised easily from old cans, or formed from sheet metal. The detailed construction, as indicated, is suggestive only, since local conditions and materials available will govern the design of the fittings. The light has a double control, one cord governing the vertical adjustment, and another, arranged like that of a ship’s wheel, the horizontal pivotal range. The vertical adjustment is desirable, but not essential. The control cords are run in screw eyes along the coaming of the craft, so that one person can paddle the canoe, and adjust the searchlight as well. Dry cells, stored under the bow deck, or in a box set at some other convenient place, supply the current for the 6-volt lamp.

The main dimensions of the fittings, as detailed, are: strainer, 10 in. in diameter and 10 in. long; vertical support, 12¹⁄₂ in. over all, and 6 in. wide at the upper portion; the wood used is ¹⁄₂ and ³⁄₄ in. thick, except that for the pivot post, which is 1 in. thick. The reflector is fitted with a wooden block through which the porcelain socket is set, as shown. A knife switch, placed near the stern of the craft, controls the connection with the battery circuit.

The inside of the reflector should be polished with emery cloth, and if the surface is rough, it may be painted with white enamel. The outer surfaces of the metal part are painted black. The wooden parts may be painted, or given several coats of spar varnish, to withstand the weather.

Gravity-Feed Coal Hopper on Truck

In the large farm kitchen, in the workshop, and even for firing a small furnace, a coal hopper that will hold considerable coal, and that can be rolled along the floor easily, is a convenience. Such an arrangement, made from a section of galvanized-iron pipe, 10 in. in diameter and 30 in. long is shown in the sketch. The pipe was cut at one end, as shown, so that when the coal was poured into the hopper, it would feed out. A truck, mounted on casters, was made, 12 in. wide, 5 in. high, and 25 in. long. The hopper was mounted on one end of it, and bolted securely at the sides and end. The coal is shoveled into the hopper at the bin, and the load pushed to the furnace, where it can be easily used as needed. The construction can be made larger for use with a coal scoop, in firing a boiler or large furnace.--L. R. Markwood, Factoryville, Pa.

Taking Photographs in Falling Snow

Falling snowflakes in a camera photograph--the large feathery, slow falling kind--often make an exquisitely beautiful picture out of a commonplace scene. And while the great majority of the attempts to get them prove failures, the photographer--usually an amateur-needs only to provide an avenue in front of his lens a short distance, that is free from falling flakes by the use of a shelter such as a tree or porch. The slow snapshot necessary in cloudy weather will not stop the motion of the flakes nearest the camera and these passing through greater angles of space in equal length of time than those farther away, will blur on the negative. We made some excellent outdoor views in deep snow, while heavy snow was falling, with flakes splendidly decorating the darker regions of figures and foliage, by holding a felt hat and two umbrellas in a line in front of the camera, and above the range of the lens.--J. Cecil Alter, Cheyenne, Wyo.

A Double-Contact Vibrator

A double-contact vibrator, which eliminates sticking contacts, spring troubles, and other sources of annoyance, in addition to producing a fine high tone, is shown in the sketch. It is an instrument easy to construct, by reason of its simplicity. Special care in making the vibrator D will insure good vibration. The springs, holding the contacts, are of phosphor bronze The contacts may be made of silver platinum, or other metals, which will not burn and break contact. The coil B are of the common bell-ringing type. The springs on the vibrator should not be too long, nor too weak; experimenting will determine the length at which they will work best. The adjustment is made at the thumbscrews A. The coils are supported on metal brackets, bolted to a wooden base. The method of hooking up the vibrator in the key circuit is shown in the diagram.--J. L. Taylor, Barker, N. Y.

Battery Buzzer Converted into a Telegraph Sounder

An ordinary battery buzzer may readily be converted into a telegraph sounder for use in practicing the Morse code. All that is necessary is to connect the vibrator contact C of the buzzer to the binding post that is not insulated from the frame. The other connections of the key and battery are the same as in any ordinary telegraph or buzzer circuit. In the diagram, C represents the vibrator contact; D, the wire connecting the contact and the uninsulated binding post, and F, the uninsulated binding post; E is the telegraph key, and B, the dry cells.--Clarence F. Kramer, Lebanon, Ind.

Lawn Seats Built on Tree Stumps

A practical use to which stumps, left from the felling of trees, are put in a city park is as supports for lawn benches. This obviates the need of grubbing them out, while the work of preparing them to receive the seats is less than would be required to remove the stumps. Of course, the location of the stump will determine whether it is worth while as a support for a seat, or had better be grubbed out. Many designs are possible, and the position and size of the stumps available will suggest suitable construction. The woodwork for the seats is simple, and the benches can be made removable for the winter if desired.--C. L. Meller, Fargo, N. D.

A Hinged Box Cover Made without Hinges

When a wooden box with a hinged cover is desired, especially a small one, hinges are not always at hand, and are sometimes difficult to obtain. Under these circumstances a good substitute is to make the box as shown in the sketch, using the extension of one end and nails, or screws, driven through the back corners of the lid, as a hinge arrangement. This makes the use of hinges unnecessary, and is serviceable even for permanent use. Where hinges projecting from the surface of the box are objectionable, this method of construction is especially desirable. It is best to make the hinged ends with the grain vertical, and to round off the hinged corners of the lid slightly.--R. J. Rohn, Chicago, Ill.

Automatic Flash Light Snaps Chicken-Coop Marauder

After the wire fence around the chicken house had been torn up, and the place entered 13 nights in two weeks, I decided on more preparedness. Various ways and means failed, so I used a comparatively slight knowledge of photography in the process.

I mounted my flash lamp on a piece of board, 1 by 4 by 8 in. long, and fastened this to a base, as shown. I attached a weight to the lamp, which was supported by a hinged drop, halfway down the upright board, which in turn was supported by a nail, to which was attached a string. The flash was set off by a slight pull of the string, which dropped the weight. This contrivance I concealed in the chicken yard, and the camera in the chicken house. That night I opened the lens of the camera in the dark, and attached the string to a loose board in the fence. The next morning, before daybreak, I closed the lens again. The flash had been set off during the night. Also there were drops of blood on the ground. I could hardly wait until the plate was developed. The result, as reproduced, was hardly what I expected.--H. U. Scholz, Medford, Ore.

A Fishing-Tackle Outfit in a Shotgun Shell

At the camp or on the trail, an emergency fishing-tackle outfit is almost as handy as matches, compass, and knife, and it may even be the means of saving one’s life. A convenient way to carry such an outfit is in two old shotgun shells, telescoped. The hooks, on a cork, and the sinkers are fitted snugly into the shell. Several yards of line are then wound on the outside. This outfit can be stowed into a pocket handily, always ready for use.--E. Everett Buchanan, Jr., Elmira, N. Y.

A Split-Bamboo Lettering Pen

Marking of packages and similar lettering can be done neatly with a pen made in a few minutes from split bamboo fitted with a short section of watch spring. Select a piece of bamboo, ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₁₆ in. and about 7 in. long, and finish the end, as at A. Trim the end to an angle, as at B, and then point it, as at C. Split the point carefully, as at D, and smooth away the tufts at the edges. Cut a piece of watch spring the width of the pen point and bind it into place, arched as shown. To use the pen, insert ink into the arch of the spring, and it will work much like a fountain pen.--Raymond H. Lufkin, Dorchester, Mass.

How to Make a Houseboat

BY H. SIBLEY

The houseboat shown is of the scow design, 6 ft. wide by 20 ft. long, with the cabin extending beyond the scow 1 ft. on each side. The scow tapers up at the forward end and is protected with a heavy sheet-iron plate so that the craft may be snubbed up on sandbars without danger of springing a leak, even though a submerged log be struck while running at full speed.

The power plant consists of a standard 4-hp. reversing gasoline engine which drives the paddles at their most efficient speed, 45 revolutions per minute through a 13-to-1 reduction. Cast-iron hubs, into which are inserted cold-rolled steel spokes, and wood paddles bolted to their ends constitute the propeller wheels. The cruising speed is about 4 miles an hour.

Two wide bunks, beneath which is locker space, provide sleeping accommodations for a crew of four. In the kitchen the motor and gearing are almost completely concealed under the work table. The cooking is done on a two-burner blue-flame kerosene stove, and the sink is provided with running water suitable for washing dishes, etc. This water is drawn from a 30-gal. tank on the roof, which is filled by a centrifugal pump driven from the engine shaft. A modern toilet room is installed, and an ice chest on the after deck will hold supplies and ice for a week’s cruise.

An acetylene-gas lighting system is installed and is used to light both cabins and a searchlight. A heavy anchor of special design is manipulated by a windlass on the forward deck. A similar device controls the rudder. Life rafts, complete with paddles, are placed on the roof, and in hot weather these are moved to one end and an awning erected to make a cool sleeping place.

Wood Box with a Refuse-Catching Drawer

The ordinary wood box may be greatly improved by adding a drawer at the top and one at the bottom, as shown in the sketch. The upper drawer is used for storing the flatirons and stove-polishing materials, and the lower drawer is the bottom of the wood box. The dirt and pieces falling from the wood remain in the drawer, which can be removed and cleaned easily.--Contributed by William Jutila, Astoria, Ore.

Disappearing-Coin Trick

To make a quarter disappear from a glass of water after hearing it drop is a very puzzling trick. The articles necessary to perform this trick are a glass of water, a handkerchief, a quarter and a piece of clear glass the exact size of a quarter. The glass can be cut and ground round on an emery wheel, and the edge polished.

To perform the trick advance with the piece of glass hidden between the second and third fingers of the left hand and holding the quarter in plain sight between the thumb and first finger of the same hand and the handkerchief in the right hand. Throw the handkerchief over the left hand and gather up the glass piece in the fold of the cloth, allowing the coin to drop into the palm of the left hand while covered. Remove the left hand and hold out the piece of glass with the handkerchief drawn tightly around it. Anyone can touch the cloth-covered glass, but it cannot be distinguished from the quarter. While this is being shown slip the quarter into a pocket. Spread the handkerchief over the glass of water and allow the glass disk to drop. A distinct click will be heard when it strikes the bottom. Raise the handkerchief and nothing will be seen, as the glass will not be visible in the water.--Contributed by Amon H. Carr, Gainesville, Tex.

Watering Window-Box Flowers

The window box for flowers can be conveniently watered in the following manner: Construct a metal box to receive the box holding the soil and bore enough holes in its bottom to admit water to the soil. The inside box should be supported about 2 in. above the bottom of the metal box. Sponges are placed in the bottom to coincide with the holes in the soil box. A filling tube is made at the end. The water is poured into the metal box and the sponges admit only enough water for the plants at all times.

How to Make Combined Kites

BY C. M. MILLER