Chapter XXIII: Part III: Construction of the Track System (2)

To draw an ellipse that will be an exact projection of a circle at any given angle it is necessary to determine the length of the major axis. This may be done by laying out the circle, either full size or to scale, and projecting two parallel lines equal to the diameter of the circle, or its scale, and connecting these lines with a line drawn to the required angle. The length of this line is the major axis.

* * * * *

¶Never run a glass cutter over the same line twice, as this will
ruin the cutter. Alcohol rubbed along the line to be cut aids in the
process.

Ship’s-Wheel Device for a Radiator Valve

Leaving one’s comfortable bed to open the valve of a radiator in a cold room is an unpleasant task. The device shown in the sketch obviates the necessity for leaving the bed, yet gives as positive control over the valve as if the hand were on the valve wheel.

The construction of the pulley attached to the top of the valve wheel is shown in the small sketch at the right. It is built up of a center section of wood and flanges of sheet metal, fastened with screws. The pulleys attached to the wall are built in the same way, but are smaller. Any size that is convenient may be used for the larger as well as the smaller pulleys, but the larger pulley must be small enough so that it will not rub against the end of the radiator.

The cord is wound around the pulley at the valve handle, several times, like the steering cord on a motorboat. This gives a positive grip on the pulley. The cord may be conducted directly from the large pulley to the nearer small pulley, the other small one being omitted.

To operate the device draw on the proper cord to open and close the valve. It would be well to mark the cords with tabs so that they may be readily distinguished.--Contributed by P. D. Norton, Chicago, Ill.

Lighted Whirling Fan Used as Radiator Ornament

An ornament for the automobile-radiator cap that attracted a great deal of attention at night was made by attaching two incandescent lamps to the blades of a small propeller, which is whirled around by the wind. By using the shaft on which the wheels of a roller skate revolve, ball bearings were provided. One end of this shaft is held rigid in a block of wood.

The wires which lead from the propeller are run under the hood, and attached to the socket for the trouble lamp. They are taped to the rod that braces the radiator, to avoid a short circuit, and then out from under the hood at the radiator cap, and connected to the brushes A and B. The incandescent electric-light bulbs are attached to the ends of the propeller blades and connected in series. The wire is run from one side of the socket E to the collar C, and soldered to the latter. The wire from the other side of the socket is connected to the other lamp F. The other wire from this lamp socket at F is soldered to the other collar D. The brushes are made by bending a strip of copper into the shape shown in the detail, and fastening it to the wooden block by means of screw binding posts, soldered to the strips.--F. Lloyd Adams, Jersey City, N. J.

A Fifty-Cent Electric Stove

Few persons realize what an intense heat may be developed when the globe of an ordinary incandescent lamp is tightly inclosed, largely eliminating the loss of heat. When the lamp is inclosed, the temperature will increase until the rate of radiation is equal to that at which the heat is generated. A good reflector is a poor radiator, hence, when the metal wall surrounding the lamp is bright and shiny, both inside and out, the heat is reflected inward.

To make a small stove that will keep liquids warm, melt paraffin, dissolve glue, etc., procure an ordinary 16-cp. carbon lamp, a porcelain receptacle, and a bright, clean tin can, about 4 in. in diameter and 7 in. long. Thoroughly blacken the bottom on the inside, and then solder on four small brackets, cut from sheet brass or copper, so that the can may be held down firmly, when inverted on the base. The latter should preferably be made of hard wood, with the upper edges beveled, as shown. Next bore the hole for the wire or flexible cord. Fasten down the porcelain receptacle, connect the wiring, screw in the globe, and screw down the tin can; the stove is then ready for operation.--John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.

BY CHARLES M. MILLER

A Variety of Small Stools and Foot Rests]

[The various materials referred to in this article by number or size
were described in detail in an article on “A Reed Basket,” in the Boy
Mechanic, Book 2, page 257.]

Footstools of reed are preferable, in the home, to those made of other materials, because of their light weight, rounded edges, and comfortable, yielding tops. Reed, rattan, and similar material, used in their construction, withstand hard wear, and will not easily mar floors or furniture, a feature not to be overlooked, especially since the footstool is a favorite seat or play table of children. Several types of stools and foot rests are shown in the illustration. A stool having a framework of dowels, covered with reed, and utilizing the frame to produce a paneled effect, is shown in Fig. 3. The upper dowel of the framework is covered and woven over with the top, in the somewhat lighter stool shown in Fig. 8; the legs are braced at the ends with reed, arched and covered with winding reed. The stool shown in Fig. 11 is designed with rounded lines, the bracing dowels being set low, and a panel of openwork woven into the sides. Figure 15 shows a foot rest, the framework of which is steamed and bent, and the top slanted to provide a more comfortable rest for the feet. It is strongly braced, paneled on the sides with winding reed, and ornamented with openwork scrolls. The details of the construction of the frames and the method of weaving the reed are shown in the other sketches.

Dowels, ³⁄₄ in. in diameter, are used for the main framework of all of the stools shown. The dimensions of the various stools may be made to suit individual taste, those suggested in each instance having been found satisfactory. A good size for the stool shown in Fig. 3 is: height, 9 in.; width, 11 in.; length, 15 in. The lower of the horizontal dowels should be set at least one-third the height of the leg from the top. The braces are notched at their ends to fit the curve of the legs, and finishing nails are driven into them through the legs. The corner joints are further reinforced by a binding of reed, placed over them. The holes for the spokes are bored through the braces before the construction is nailed together. They should be bored about 1¹⁄₄ in. apart, spaced uniformly, according to the length and width of the stool. The tops of the legs should project about ¹⁄₁₆ in. above the upper braces, so as to produce a level surface when the winding reed is applied.

The upper end of the legs must first be covered with winding reed, as shown in Fig. 2. Tack a strip of the reed on; then add successive pieces, as shown, until the end is covered. The joint of the leg and the lower brace must be reinforced, as shown in Fig. 2, by tacking winding reed over it horizontally. The braces must then be wound with winding reed, the spokes being inserted later. In winding the reed on the braces, tack one end of it to the brace at the left of a leg; then begin the winding on the brace to the right of the leg, and as each hole is encountered mark with pencil on the reed, so that if any of the holes are covered they may be found easily, when inserting the spokes. The marks should be made on the lower side.

The spokes extend from the lower edge of the bottom rail on one side to the lower edge of the corresponding rail or brace on the opposite side. Short spokes are fitted between the upper and lower rails at the ends of the stool. The top is woven complete before the sides are woven, the pairing weave being used. In this method two strands of reed are handled together, the first passing behind one spoke, and being below the second strand, and then passing in front of the next spoke, and being above the second strand, etc. This weave is shown in detail in Fig. 9, illustrating an article on “Taborets and Small Tables for the Summer Veranda,” page 155, July, 1916. The weaving of the top includes the covering of the upper rails at the ends of the stool, which are wound in as spokes, the reed passing around them and being directed back in the opposite direction.

The weaving for the sides is carried around the stool continuously, passing around the legs. One of the strands in the pairing weave passes behind the leg, and the other must be wound around it an extra turn, to cover up the space otherwise exposed. The reed is wound around the legs to the lower end, the strand being tacked at the inner side of the leg.

The framework for the second type of stool is shown in Fig. 6. The two side rails are fixed into place by the same method used in making the first stool, and the frame is braced on the ends by sections of No. 12 or No. 14 reed. These are fitted into place and covered in the winding. The braces should be fitted to the curve of the leg, and nailed into place with small finishing nails. The ends where the braces join the legs and rails should be whittled down to a long, thin wedge, so that they may be bound in securely by the reed that is wound around the legs, as shown in Fig. 4.

The spokes in this model, as shown in Fig. 6, do not pass through the upper rails, but extend from one lower rail over the upper rails and to the lower rail on the opposite side. This makes it necessary that the upper rails be set slightly below and in from the top and outer edges of the legs. The lower rails should then be set in so as to be uniform with the upper ones.

The lower rails and the end braces are wound by the method used for the rails in the first stool. The tops of the legs are finished differently, however, as shown in Figs. 4 and 5. The weaving is begun at the lower rail, and proceeds until the side panel is filled to the under edge of the upper rail. The weavers cannot then be returned at the corner, and are cut off to extend 2 in. beyond the leg. Their ends are thinned out, and then brought around the corner against the upper rail on the end, as shown in Fig. 5. Alternately they are turned down on the leg and against the end rail, producing a covering for the corner. The strands of the top are woven over the thinned-out ends, and bound over the joint of the braces with the upper rail. The corners may be beaten gently with a block of wood to smooth them, and to bring the weavers firmly together. The weavers pass twice around the legs, as each strand is brought to the leg, as shown in Figs. 5 and 7. It will be found convenient to place the spokes in only one lower rail, as in Fig. 6, while weaving the first side panel, and the top. As the work proceeds the spokes are bound down to the upper end rails, and when the middle of the second side panel is reached, they are trimmed off and fitted into their holes, on that side.

The third stool differs fundamentally from the preceding ones in that the framework is curved at the upper ends, and the weaving of the top is carried down over the ends. The framework is shown in detail, in Fig. 9. Ash dowels, ³⁄₄ in. in diameter, are used for the framework, and the rails are notched into the main sections, and nailed, as were those in the preceding stools. The length of the curved dowels must be determined carefully, and it is desirable to have the stock longer than is necessary for the finished pieces, so that inaccuracies in bending may be allowed for properly. The distance between the legs should be such that a space of ¹⁄₂ in. is provided between the legs and the first hole for the side spokes, and the intervening spokes should be placed 1 in. apart. A satisfactory size is to make the stool 6 in. high, the end rails 8 in., and the side rails 13 inches.

FIG. 2

FIG. 3

FIG. 4

FIG. 5

FIG. 6

FIG. 7

FIG. 8

FIG. 10

FIG. 9

FIG. 11

FIG. 14

FIG. 12

FIG. 15

FIG. 13

The Making of Stools in Woven Reed Affords the Craftworker an Excellent Opportunity to Produce Constructions, for Home Use, or as Gifts, That Have Originality and a Personal Element. The Frameworks for Four Typical Stools and Foot Rests are Shown at the Left, and the Completed Objects at the Right. Figure 14 Shows a Variation Adaptable to the Methods of Weaving Shown in Other Models]

The method of bending the dowels is shown in Figs. 12 and 13. They must be soaked in hot water or steamed, and clamped around the form as indicated, being left to dry. A pipe fitted over the ends of the dowels, to give leverage, will aid in bending them. The form is made by fitting pegs, suitably spaced, into a board, ⁷⁄₈ in. or more in thickness. The curved pieces may be braced temporarily, as shown, and removed from the form when partly dried, so that it can be used quickly for the second piece. The pegs must be set close enough together so that the curve at the upper ends of the legs will not be too large, making the legs appear short. Care must be taken in bending this short curve, as the dowels are likely to break if the curve is quite abrupt. By setting the pegs solidly and making them long enough, two pieces of dowel rod may be curved in the form at the same time, and permitted to dry. A convenient tray of galvanized iron, for use in heating water for the moistening of the dowels, is shown in Fig. 10. It is 28 in. long, but may be made shorter if the points at which curves are to be made are moistened separately. A wash boiler, or any other suitable vessel, may be used for heating the water and dipping the dowels into it. After being shaped, the pieces are trimmed off to the proper height on the leg portions. Holes for the spokes are then bored through the lower and side rails, and they are notched and nailed to the legs.

The cross rails of the framework, shown in Fig. 9, are fixed into place by the method used in the previous models. The lower rails should be set about 2 in. from the floor, and are bored for double spokes. The rails are set with their outer edges ¹⁄₈ in. in from the edges of the legs, so that the weaving will be flush with the surface of the legs, rather than project slightly beyond it. The spokes for the ends and seat, or top, pass from one lower rail on one end to the corresponding rail on the other end, and are supported on the upper end rails. There are no corners to be fitted with the winding reed in this model, as the windings continue over the curves at the ends and down over the latter, by the same method of weaving as used in the top. The weaving is begun at the lower rails, and passes completely around the sides and ends of the stool, until about 1¹⁄₂ in. has been covered, up from the lower rails. The ends only are then covered, the strands of reed passing around the curved portion of the upper rails, and around the dowels forming the support for the top, in weaving back and forth.

The ornamental weaving at the sides of the stool is produced by spreading out the double spokes and conducting them to the proper holes in the upper rails. Several types of design may be made by crossing the spokes in various ways before setting them into the holes in the rails. The short spokes in the sides are permitted to remain with their upper ends free and longer than necessary while the 1¹⁄₂-in. lower section is woven. They must be cut carefully to the size necessary to form the desired design, and the ends glued into the holes.

The stool shown in Fig. 15 is designed as a foot rest, with a slanting top. It is similar in general construction to that shown in Figs. 9 and 11, the framework being made of dowels, bent to the shape indicated by means of a form. The top and ends are woven in the manner described for the previous model. A point of difference to be noted is the bracing by means of a woven panel below the side rails, as shown in Fig. 15. This feature may be carried around the ends also, or the ends may be braced to the lower side panel by the method of bracing shown in Fig. 4. The rails around the stool are all on the same level. The double spokes for the top are fixed into the end rails, the spokes for the side panels into the side rails, and the smaller dowel placed at the lower edge of the side panels, as a support for the twisted weaving shown. The weaving of the top and the panels is by the method used in the previous model. The scrolls fitted into the open portions of the sides are tacked into place, and the strands of weaving reed carried over them, where the curves touch the upper and lower rails. A variety of designs may be worked out for the openwork. The scrolls are made of No. 6 or No. 8 reed, and should be formed on a base, as in Fig. 12, brads being used to hold them in shape until dry.

Another type of foot rest with a slanting top is shown in Fig. 14. The framework is built up of dowels, straight sections only being used. The joints are fastened by the method used in the first and second models described. The method of covering the frame is essentially the same as for the stool shown in Fig. 15, or an adaptation of that used in Fig. 11 may also be applied. Where facilities for steaming or moistening the dowels are not to be had conveniently, this type of construction will be found satisfactory, the designs being limited to straight lines, however. The method of covering the framework used in Fig. 3 is also available for the framework shown in Fig. 4, and the corners may be finished as shown in Fig. 2. Numerous variations and combinations of the types shown may be worked out readily after one has become reasonably familiar with the possibilities of woven-reed construction.

Squirrel-Skin Bill Fold

As a souvenir of the “days afield” my brother fashioned a quaint bill fold out of a squirrel skin, which, by the way, is a skin of remarkable toughness, After tanning the skin and removing the hair, it was cut as shown, the skin of the forelegs being used as fold-overs. The piece of tape took the place of the tail. The shot holes through the skin added the requisite touch of realism, recalling a day with the gun.--James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Waterproof Dry-Battery Case

Dry batteries that are sealed in a tight, waterproof case will last much longer than those exposed to dampness, especially in marine practice. A box, like that shown in the sketch, will afford excellent protection and add materially to the life and efficiency of batteries. It is constructed of ¹⁄₂-in. cypress, or oak, of a length and width depending upon the capacity in number of cells desired. The inside dimensions should be such that the cells are firmly fitted. It should be put together with screws and marine, or any other waterproof, glue. The batteries should be placed in the case and connected. Molten paraffin wax should then be poured over and under the cells. Do not get the wax too hot, but heated only to the melting point. Binding posts and a single-blade switch should be placed on the case and connected up. Screw on the cover, after painting the top edges with the glue. Give the case a good coat of varnish and paint, and fit with a carrying handle. This makes a neat and handy battery outfit that is thoroughly waterproof. The case can be refilled by cutting out the wax and removing the old cells.--B. F. Dashiell, Baltimore, Md.

Making Small Ratchet Wheels in a Lathe

Accurately formed ratchet wheels of small size may be made without special appliances in a lathe. A triangular file and a simple gauge, made of a piece of hardened steel, are the only tools required, as shown in the illustration.

The lathe is prepared as an index for the ratchet wheels by dividing the face of one of the steps, preferably the largest of the cone pulley. A center punch may be used in marking the graduations slightly, and another point should be marked in the headstock base, from which dividers are used to gauge the movement of the spindle. The dividers should be set, when the work is begun so that one point rests in the punch mark on the headstock and the other in one of the marks on the pulley. The bearings should be tightened so that the work will not shift easily. The blank to be cut is supported on an arbor provided with a shoulder, and is held in place by a small machine screw threaded into the end of the arbor.

The teeth are cut by filing them with the gauge as a guide. If the spindle is turned carefully so that the dividers register the graduations precisely, the ratchet wheel will be cut accurately. By first roughing out the teeth and then refiling them with a fine file, a more smoothly finished surface will result. Other forms of teeth might also be made if a properly shaped gauge is provided.--Charles F. Merrill, Hopedale, Mass.

Front-Opening Hatbox

Lifting a hatbox down from a high shelf, only to find that the desired hat is not among the several hats contained therein, is annoying. If the hat shelves of the clothes closet are provided with boxes that open on the front, the hats may be removed easily without taking the boxes from the shelves. Rectangular boxes are used for making the front-opening containers by cutting the side corners of the front, and using the front lower edge as a hinge. The top, or cover, is placed over the box, holding the hinged front in place when closed. These boxes have been found to afford ample protection and are convenient.--D. J. Hough, Toledo, Ohio.

Plaster of Paris to Set Screws into Wall

Screws holding light fittings in a bathroom were found to be driven into the plaster between laths and became loosened. No strain was placed upon them, and as it was desired to replace the screws in the same holes, the following method was employed: A cotton string was wrapped around the threads of the screw, and the screw then dipped into plaster of Paris until sufficient of this adhered to it to fill the hole in the wall and to permit some of it to be forced behind the plaster. When the plugs thus formed were dry, they resisted a considerable pressure, by reason of the enlarged portions behind the plaster.--H. A. Trester, Milwaukee, Wis.

Case for Fishhooks Made of a Tin Can

After trying several devices for keeping my fishhooks, I hit upon my present method, which has been found satisfactory. The materials used are: a ¹⁄₂-lb. baking-powder tin; two disks, 2 in. in diameter and ¹⁄₄ in. thick, sawed from a convenient limb; a twig, 4 in. long, somewhat smaller than a lead pencil, made smooth and straight; enough cork stoppers, about ³⁄₄ in. in diameter at the small end, to make 3¹⁄₂ in. in length, and a few drops of cold glue.

Drill a hole lengthwise through the through the stoppers and through the center of each disk, just large enough to allow the twig to pass through closely. Cut from the small ends of two of the stoppers a piece, ¹⁄₄ in. long, for pieces A and B. Pass the twig through the long stoppers and the disks; the pieces A and B should then be glued to the ends of the twigs projecting beyond the disks, to fasten the hook holder together, and to be used for handles by which it may be lifted from the box. If the hooks are dry when they are stuck into the corks which form the center, they will keep in good condition indefinitely, and their points will never be dulled by coming in contact with the tin sides of the box or with each other.--C. A. King, East Kingston, N. H.

Improvement on Pocket Flash Lamps

It is often desirable to concentrate the rays from a pocket flash lamp on a limited area rather than spreading them, as is the case with many lamps of this type. The addition of a hood, which may be slipped over the lens, as shown in the illustration, concentrates the light in this manner. A strip of sheet brass, about ¹⁄₃₂ in. thick, 4 in. long, and ³⁄₄ in. wide, was drilled at the center, forming an opening of the same diameter as the lens. A brass tube was soldered to fit over the hole. The ends of the strip were bent back at right angles, to hold the device firmly against the sides of the flash lamp. The lamp is used in the ordinary fashion, and the clip may be removed quickly when not needed. It may be plated or finished to suit the metal parts of the lamp.--Ralph W. Tillotson, Erie, Pa.

Testing Dry Cells with Light Bulb

Tests of batteries for telephones, doorbells, and similar appliances, may be made by the use of a lamp from a pocket flash light. Remove the reflector and lamp and connect them with the poles of each cell to be tested, as shown in the sketch. The glow of the lamp is proportional to the amount of life in the cell. Very often but one dead cell will be found to cause trouble. By testing carefully the good cells may be retained and new ones substituted for those worn out.

Loading Box to Dispense with Dark Room

When a daylight developing tank is used, a dark room is needed only for loading the plate holders and for transferring exposed plates to the tank. These operations may be performed satisfactorily in darkness, using a large box with holes made in the side to admit the hands, as shown in the sketch. The box may be made of light wood or stout cardboard. The sleeves fitted to the openings are provided with elastic bands to insure that no light creeps in at the edges. The holders, plates, and sponge should be arranged conveniently in the box before beginning operations.

The box must be made light-proof by lining it with black cloth if necessary. If any difficulty is experienced in identifying the film side of the plates they may be marked with minute tabs at the corner on the film side, or identified by moistening the finger tip on the sponge and testing for a slight stickiness of the film side at the extreme corner. A red window might be fitted into the box, but the device has been found satisfactory without it.--Contributed by H. J. Gray, Lewes, Sussex, England.

* * * * *

¶New brooms should be soaked in strong, hot salt water. This toughens
the bristles and makes them last much longer.

Rubber Bands Made from Old Inner Tubes

Old inner tubes of bicycles, or other vehicles, may be cut into rubber bands of various widths which will be found to give good service. The tubes should be laid flat on a hard piece of board, or a piece of sheet zinc, and the bands cut off one at a time with a sharp knife held against a straightedge. In cutting them on wood, it is best to use a close-grained stock and to cut across the grain of the wood.

Sailors’ Sweetheart Picture Frame

The boys on United States battleships are fond of making trinkets and souvenirs to be sent home, and the sailors’ sweetheart picture frame shown in the sketch is a favorite. Speaking from experience, I know that many “landlubbers” will be interested in this novelty, although coming from a man-of-war makes it more interesting. I have been there and, therefore, I know. The place of honor in the center is of course reserved for the lady. The smaller picture openings may be filled with penny pictures of father and mother, or other relatives.--Contributed by Charles Rorer, Bridgeport, Connecticut.

BY CHARLES M. MILLER

Taborets and Small Tables for the Summer Veranda]

[The various materials referred to in this article by number or size
were described in detail in an article on “A Reed Basket,” in the Boy
Mechanic, Book 2, page 257.]

Utility and ready portability are well recognized features of woven-reed furniture, but the qualities which make it especially attractive for summer use in the open air, or on the veranda, are its inviting comfort and graceful lines. While furniture of this type arranged in suites makes a particularly harmonious showing, individual pieces may be used in combination with other furniture, lending a touch of variety. Small tables or taborets, of light weight and simple design, may be made by the novice, and may be adapted to a variety of uses. Footstools, jardinière stands, sewing tables, yard tables, and smoking stands are some of the possibilities. Three representative types are shown in Figs. 1 to 3, and the general method of construction as well as the details of the weaving are also illustrated.

A serviceable taboret or stand is illustrated in Fig. 1. It is 18 in. high, and 17 in. in diameter on the top. The sides are 9 in. wide at the top and 14 in. at the bottom.

The framework for the top of the stand consists of a disk of wood, 16 in. in diameter, with a similar one, 14 in. in diameter, directly underneath, the edge being set under 1 in. all around. Four legs of 1-in. doweling support it, and two cross braces of doweling are placed between diagonally opposite corner posts, behind the woven portions of the side. The grain of the wood in the upper disk should run at right angles to that of the lower, to prevent warping, and the disks should be fastened together with nails or screws. Avoid putting them into the lower disk, where the legs are to be fixed.

To locate the position for the legs, draw a diameter on the under side of the top, as at A, Fig. 4, and 4 in. on either side of it draw parallel lines B and C. Draw another diameter, D, at right angles to A, and draw the parallel lines E and F 4 in. from the diameter D. Where the four outside lines intersect will be the centers of the holes for the legs. These holes are not bored perpendicularly, but are slanted to conform to the slant of the leg. A template should be used in guiding the bit, as shown at G, Fig. 4. It may be constructed of wood, 3 in. wide and 5 in. long, Fig. 5. Place the gauge just outside the edge of the hole to be bored. Nail it to the board lightly on the diagonal, as shown, and guide the bit against it.

Before the legs are fixed into place finally, the holes for the spokes of the side should be bored. The parallel lines of Fig. 4 now serve another purpose, that of giving the location of the spokes. Place one spoke ¹⁄₂ in. from each leg, and the others 1 in. apart. The legs are utilized as spokes in the weaving. The spokes should be double, and the extra spokes may be inserted beside the original ones, after the weaving has progressed a few rounds. Number 5 reed should be used for the spokes and No. 4 reed for the weavers, which are woven back and forth around the spokes.

Drive the legs into their sockets, applying glue, and pin them with nails, as at H, Fig. 4. Tack strips on the bottoms of two pairs of legs and then fasten two strips to brace them, as shown in Fig. 6. The strips should be put on and the distance between the legs spaced before the glue sets.

It is best to weave the sides before beginning the top, so as to prevent rubbing the woven top while weaving the sides, with the stand inverted. The side spokes should be 2 ft. long and should be set into the top 1 in., with glue. Turn the top of the stand down on a table, and begin the weaving at the under side of the top. Single weaving is used for the sides, every other round passing twice around the legs.

There being four sides in the construction, there will be an even number of spokes, even though there should be an odd number to each side. The weaving would thus repeat itself, in going behind and before the same spoke each time. This is not desirable in this construction, and a change should be made each round. To do this, go over two spokes, instead of one, at the finish of a round. Such a “skip” is an Indian method, and forms a design that may be carried in slanting lines back and forth down the side of the stand. It is best to confine these “skips” to one side. Another way to overcome the repeat, as the weaving in and out around the same spokes in two successive layers is called, is to insert an extra spoke on one side, thus making an odd number of spokes around the stand. It is necessary then to conform the design of the open work for this side to the number of spokes. The design for the open work shown in Fig. 2 will be used for the stand illustrated in Fig. 1, and to be described in detail. The first of the two methods of overcoming the “repeat” will be used.

Insert the extra reed for doubling the spokes, after a few rounds have been woven adjoining the top. The method of weaving from the corner post and the making of the open design are shown in Figs. 7 and 8. The method of “pairing” for winding the reed in and out of the spokes, is shown in Figs. 9 and 10. The rear weaver of the pair of strands is thrown over the forward weaver, back of the next spoke and out. The fore weaver then becomes the rear one, and is thrown in like manner. This process is repeated in order to make the complete rounds. Figure 9 shows the weaving from the side, and Fig. 10 is a view looking down on top of the spokes and the edge of the weaving, shown in section. Pairing gives a continuous rope twist to the two weavers, and an even or odd number of spokes is equally suitable.

For the open designs of Fig. 2, one or more of which may be placed in the side of the stand, the center spokes are left free, as shown in Fig. 7. Before turning the first weaver back for the open work, as at M, start a short weaver N about two spokes back from the opening, and pair it with the regular weaver across the opening, and two spokes beyond. In turning back on the spokes, the single weaver goes twice around the spokes, as shown by the intermediate layers O. This is a short bend and the weavers must be very soft. Use short ones and wet them frequently with a sponge. A sectional view of the weaving at the opening is shown in Fig. 8, as it joins with the weaving around the corner posts. At K, the weaver turns back on a double thickness of reed, and at L, a short spoke is set back of the other two, and the weaver is wound around the three, thus lessening the abruptness of the winding. The latter method is the better. At the horizontal center of the opening, two rounds continue across the opening and around the stand. Pair a short piece of reed across at the finish of the openings, as was done at the lower end at N, Fig. 7.

After weaving to within 5 in. of the bottom of the legs, cut off the extra member of the double spokes, and soak the ends of the remaining spokes in water. Braid them into the border finish, as shown in Fig. 1. The corner posts serve as spoke spaces, and the spokes nearest them are wound around the bottom ends of the legs. Short spokes may be inserted beside the posts and wound around them if the ends of the spokes are not long enough for this purpose.

FIG. 2

FIG. 3

FIG. 5

FIG. 6

FIG. 7

FIG. 4

FIG. 11

FIG. 12

FIG. 8

FIG. 19

FIG. 15

FIG. 16

FIG. 20

FIG. 9

FIG. 13

FIG. 14

FIG. 10

FIG. 17

FIG. 18

Taborets, of Light Weight and Simple Design, may be Made by the Novice and Adapted to a Variety of Uses in the Home. They Are Particularly Attractive for the Summer Veranda. Sewing Tables, Jardinière Stands, Taborets, Footstools, Card Tables, and Smoking Stands Are Some of the Possibilities. A Taboret, or Small Stand, is Illustrated in Fig. 1, and the Details of Its Construction are Also Shown. The Tall Stand illustrated in Fig. 2 Involves the Same General Principles of Construction, Modified to Suit the Framework. The Footstool Shown in Fig. 3 Is Typical of Stands Having Vertical Sides]

The top may be made next. Holes are bored horizontally into the edge of the under disk, as shown in Figs. 4 and 11. In Fig. 12 the holes are shown bored into the edge on an angle. This method gives a thicker rolled edge to the top, although both methods are satisfactory. These holes must be bored before the work on the top is begun. There are two ways of beginning the weaving for the top. The radial spokes may cross each other in groups of four, the upper and lower courses being bound together with winding reed, as shown in Fig. 13, or a small maple disk may be used as a center from which the spokes radiate, as shown in Figs. 14 and 20. The center-disk method is not difficult, and is used extensively. The other type is novel, and also quite feasible.

The spokes for the method shown in Fig. 13 are bound together in the following manner: Place two spokes at right angles to each other and wind them with winding reed, the end of the latter beginning between the two spokes, as shown at P, Fig. 15. The perpendicular spoke is uppermost. Add a second perpendicular spoke and bind it into place, as at Q. Continue this process until four perpendicular spokes have been bound in as at R. Place a second horizontal reed into position and go over each vertical spoke with a separate winding, as in the first course. Continue until four horizontal spokes are bound in, and the end of the winding reed is looped around the last, as shown at S. The spokes should be of No. 5 reed, and 24 in. long.

Four groups of four spokes each will result by following out the process described. Separate the spokes by drawing the outer ones into the corner spaces. They should have the appearance of spokes in a wheel, as in Fig. 16. Use two weavers of No. 4 reed, in the pairing weave, as shown in Fig. 16, and in detail in Figs. 9 and 10. Continue the pairing weave until a center, 8 in. in diameter, is woven. Crowd up the weaving closely, for the appearance of the top will depend much on the first few rounds. Hold the center with the left hand, and manipulate the weavers until they are well seated in their proper places.

When a few rounds have been woven, nail the center securely to its place on the middle of the top. This will leave both hands free for the weaving. After a disk, 8 in. in diameter, has been woven, begin the triple weave illustrated in Figs. 17 and 18. As the triple weave is begun, add another spoke, 8 in. long, between each pair, all around the top, making 16 new and 16 original spokes. When two or three rounds are woven, the new spokes will become secure. Continue the triple weave to the edge of the top. Measure and cut the end of the spokes to uniform length. Curve the ends over the edge to see how much will be needed before cutting, allowing about ¹⁄₂ in. for insertion into the holes in the edge.

Wet the ends of the spokes with water until they are pliable enough for the curve. Bending and tying them down while wet and permitting them to dry in this position, as shown in Fig. 19, is desirable also. Weave down the curve of the roll and insert the ends of the spokes in their respective holes with glue. Then with the single, plain weave on the under side of the roll, weave well up to the ends of the spokes.

For the disk-center method of construction, as shown in Figs. 14 and 20, use ¹⁄₂-in. maple, and cut it 5 in. in diameter for the centerpiece. To locate holes on the edge of the disk draw a line ³⁄₁₆ in. from the upper edge and mark off spaces 1 in. apart, except four, which are made ¹⁵⁄₁₆ in. apart, to make a convenient division, practically uniform. Bore the holes ³⁄₄ in. deep. Number 5 reed is used for the spokes and No. 4 reed for the weavers. The disk should be toenailed around its edge with brads, fixing it firmly to the top before the spokes are inserted. Proceed with the pairing weave, as in the other method described, until 2 in. of the spokes is covered; then change to the triple weave and add additional spokes. Proceed as with the other type from this point on.

The taboret is braced by two 1-in. dowel rods, placed 2 in. above the bottom roll of the sides and extending from one corner to the other, diagonally. Their crossing at the center may be made into a halved joint, by cutting away one-half of each rod on the adjacent edges. The ends are fitted closely into the corners, and are nailed to the legs.

A taller stand or small table, the side weaving of which has been described as applied to the taboret shown in Fig. 1, is illustrated in Fig. 2. The construction in general is similar. A lighter roll is used for the top, and the bottom ends of the legs are curved outward slightly. The legs are curved by steaming the ends of the corner posts, clamping them into position, and permitting them to dry.

The footstool, shown in Fig. 3, may be made as a miniature stand, with vertical legs, and the spokes set in a circle under the top board. The spokes and weavers will carry the form, if well woven. The stool may also be braced, to withstand hard usage. It should be about 12 in. in diameter at the top, 10 in. in diameter for the body, and 6 in. in height.

The method of forming the opening shown in the side of the taboret in Fig. 1, and the weaving of the construction, will be readily understood from the method described. The principles and methods presented may be applied readily to other construction of the same general type. The physical limitations of reed, as a constructive material, and the necessity for a substantial framework must always be considered in such adaptations in order to obtain satisfactory results.

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¶One ounce of nitrate of iron added to 8 oz. of hyposulphite of soda
in a gallon of water and applied hot, produces a green finish on
brass.

Coaster with Safety Brake

Coasting on homemade devices is much enjoyed by children, but often accompanied with dangers because of difficulty in stopping quickly. The sketch shows a method of applying a simple brake to such a coaster, and the materials used may be obtained easily by boys in the home. The rubber mat indicated in the sketch gives a secure footing. The brake consists of a piece of wood, about 10 in. long and 3 in. wide. It is hinged to the base and held in a raised position by a coiled string, attached near the top of the device. A powerful pressure is obtained by throwing the rider’s weight on the pedal.

Fountain-Pen Wrench

Experiencing considerable difficulty in unfastening the parts of my fountain pen, I pressed into service an eraser in the method illustrated. The grip on the pen parts was positive and resulted in quickly releasing them without marring the surface or injuring the fingers.--Contributed by Charles R. Mellen, Jr., Geneva, N. Y.

Diving Tower for the Summer Camp

Aquatic pleasures and sports at a summer camp or lake may be considerably enlivened by the building of a diving tower like that shown in the sketch. It has proved very successful at a boys’ summer camp at Crystal Lake, Ill. The boys have made a practice for several years of building a tower early each swimming season on the opening of their camp in July and disposing of it for about $5 at the close of the camp some weeks later. This covers the cost of the lumber, and several resorts and cottages now boast towers made by the campers.

The tower is built largely of 2 by 4-in. stock. The longer pieces at the corners are 12 ft. in length, slanted so that the lower end of the tower is 7 ft. square and the platform at the top 3 ft. square. The handrail at the top is fixed to extensions of the rear uprights. A spring board is fastened on two horizontal braces near the middle of the tower, and is reached by the ladder. The structure is built on the shore and towed out to its position. It is sunk and weighted by the box of stone supported on cross braces.--Contributed by F. D. Lewis.

Gas Mantles Made at Home

I spent several interesting hours in experimenting with gas mantles which I made at home, and the process should be of interest to others. While I did not succeed in making mantles of the quality of the commercial article, they were nevertheless successful and gave light. Magnesium produces a white light when ignited. By using common Epsom salts, which contain magnesium sulphate, I made a strong solution in distilled water. I soaked a piece of gauze bandage in the solution, dried it carefully and soaked it again a number of times, drying it after each immersion. By this time the cloth was stiff with the dry salt. When held in a flame, the cloth catches fire and burns out, leaving the skeleton of magnesium sulphate. This framework, when held in the flame, glows with an intense white light. I shaped a piece of the gauze like a commercial mantle and dipped it into the solution as explained. It proved quite satisfactory.--Contributed by Victor E. Carpenter, South Bend, Ind.

Whistle Warns of Fish Catch

A toy railroad wheel, a piece of hollow cane, and pieces of wire are the materials necessary for making the whistle shown in the illustration, which warns a fisherman that a fish is attempting to make away with his bait. The wheel is fitted into the end of the cane and wedged into place to form a tight joint. The wires are formed into loops at the ends of the cane and fixed to it. The whistle is attached to the fishline, as shown, with the open end down and slightly below the surface of the water. The fishpole may be fixed so that the whistle will remain in this position while the fisherman is at ease in the shade near by. When the fish attempts to make away with the bait, as shown in the sketch, the water forces the air in the upper part of the cane out through the center hole of the wheel, and a whistling sound is the result.

Anchor for a Canoe or Small Boat

Small craft, particularly those used for fishing or on streams where a current is encountered, should be provided with an anchor. The illustration gives details for making one that is simple in construction and inexpensive. It weighs about five pounds, and is heavy enough for light craft up to 18 ft. long.

The main section was made of a piece of 1¹⁄₂-in. angle iron, 10 in. long. The flukes, or endpieces, were made of sheet iron, 2 in. wide and 8 in. long, bent at a right angle, and riveted in place. The straps which hold the link, permitting it to swing freely, were made of band iron. The link was made of an old bicycle crank, into which a ring was forged. It may be made of iron rod, forged into the desired shape and fitted with a ring. A convenient method of handling the anchor on a boat is to run the line through a pulley at the bow and fasten the end of it to a cleat, near the seat of the person handling the craft. Care must be taken, in a canoe or small boat, that sufficient line is provided to reach the bottom of the anchorage, as otherwise the craft may be overturned.--Contributed by B. E. Dobree, Battleford, Sask., Canada.

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¶The use of gasoline instead of turpentine for a thinner will prevent
the sagging of colors in striping.

Oiler for a Hand-Drill Press

On stationary hand-power drill presses, where both hands are required to turn the crank and hold the work, some means must be provided for applying lubricant to the drill, or the machine would have to be stopped from time to time to apply the oil. A very handy arrangement, for pouring the oil on automatically, is to make a support of wire to hold an oilcan, as shown. This will provide a slow and constant dropping of oil on the bit.--Contributed by Bert Verne, San Diego, Cal.

Bearing for Playground Swings

To have the playground swing work easily and without friction make the hangers as shown in the sketch. The ring in the hooks produces a slight rolling action and gives the swing a free motion.--Contributed by Edwin J. Bachman, Jr., Fullerton, Pa.

Die in a Bottle

The die is made of cork and the spots painted white. A small round bottle is procured, the die is placed in it and the bottle is filled with water. Be sure to have enough water to prevent any air bubbles when it is corked tightly. The cork is then sealed in the bottle. If there is an air bubble, the cork die will not work well.

If the bottle is held bottom up, the cork die will spin around and float up against the bottom of the bottle where the number of spots can be seen. It is impossible to manipulate the die to turn up any desired spots, this being left entirely to chance. A number of bottles can be prepared so that any of the dice games can be played.--Contributed by Henry J. Marion, Pontiac, Michigan.

Small Hook for Hanging a Picture

After an unsuccessful attempt to hang a small picture with a common pin, I devised the following method: After bending about ³⁄₈ in. of the point on an ordinary pin to an angle of about 45 deg. and bending up the other end in the opposite direction to form a hook, I drove the point on a downward slant into the wall. It went in easily and did not mar the plaster. When making a test I found that the hook would readily support a weight of several pounds.--Contributed by C. P. Smith, E. Radford, Va.