Chapter XV: Part II: A Festooned Kite (1)

More than one kite on the same framework is known as a compound kite. The one illustrated consists of three tailless kites on one long stick, called the spine. The upper one is 3 ft.; the center one, 2 ft., and the lower one, 1 ft. in width. There will be needed for the construction of this kite a stick of light wood--spruce is best, but it may be of pine or bass--7 ft. long by ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₂ in. If the wood breaks easily it will be better to increase the width from ¹⁄₂ in. to ³⁄₄ in., or the stick might be made ³⁄₈ in. thick without increasing the width, but with a good spruce stick the dimensions first given will be sufficient. The stick should be straight-grained and without a twist. If the spine is twisted, the kites will not lie flat or in a plane with each other, and if one is out of true, it will cause the kite to be unsteady in the air. The bow sticks are three, the upper one being 4 ft. long by ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₂ in.; the center one, 2 ft. long by ¹⁄₄ by ³⁄₈ in., and the lower one, 1 ft. long by ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₄ in. About five sheets of tissue paper will be required, but more may be needed for color combinations. The so-called French tissue paper is much better, as it comes in fine colors and is much stronger than the ordinary tissue. It costs a trifle more, but it pays in making a beautiful kite. The Chinese rice paper is the strongest, but it comes only in natural colors.

It will be seen that the kites do not extend to the top and bottom of the spine stick. The first bow stick is placed 13 in. from the top end of the spine, and each of its ends extends 6 in. beyond the kite for fastening the festoons. The bow sticks should be lashed to the spine, not nailed. Wind diagonally around the two sticks, both left and right, then wind between the two, around the other windings. This draws all windings up tightly to prevent slipping.

To string up the upper kite, drill a small hole through the spine, 6 in. from the top, at A, and also 6 in. from each end of the bow stick, at B and C. If a small drill is not available, notch the stick with a knife or saw to hold the string. Another hole is made in the spine 29 in. from the upper bow stick, or at D. Tie the outline string at A, then pass through the hole at C, then through D, up through B and back to the starting point at A. In tying the last point, draw up the string tightly, but not enough to spring the spine or bow. Measure carefully to see if the distance AC is the same as AB, and if CD is equal to BD. If they are not, shift the string until they are equal and wind at all points, as shown at E, to prevent further slipping. Proceed in the same way with the center and lower kite, and it will be ready for the cover.

The cover tissue should be cut about 1 in. larger all around than the surface to be covered, but turn over about half of this allowance. This will give plenty of looseness to the cover. For the fringe festoons, cut strips of tissue paper, 2¹⁄₂ in. wide, paste ¹⁄₂ in. of one long edge over a string, and cut slits with scissors at intervals of 1 in. along the loose edge. After the fringe has been made, attach it as shown in the illustration. Do not stretch it tightly, but give sufficient looseness to make each length form a graceful curve and keep the sides well balanced.

To bend the bows of the upper and center kites, attach a string from end to end of each bow on the back side of the kite and spring in short brace sticks in the manner usual for tailless kites.

Attach the upper end of the bridle at A. The length of the bridle string is 87 in. and the kite line is attached to it 30 in. from A, leaving the lower part from this point to F, where it is tied to the spine, 57 in. long.

The kite should fly without a tail, but if it dodges too much, attach extra streamers to the ends of the bow sticks of the lower kite, and to the bottom of the spine.

If good combinations of colors are used a very beautiful kite will be the result, and one that will fly well.

Simple Experiment in Electromagnetism

The following simple experiment, which may be easily performed, will serve to prove the theory that there is a magnetic field produced about a conductor carrying a current, and that there is a definite relation between the direction of the current in the conductor and the direction, or polarity, of the magnetic field produced by the current. The current in the experiment is to be produced by a battery consisting of a small copper and zinc plate fastened to the under side of a large flat cork, as shown in the sketch, the whole being placed in a glass or rubber vessel partly filled with diluted sulphuric acid. A small coil of wire is formed and mounted on top of the cork, and its terminals are connected to the copper and zinc plates. The electromotive force generated will cause a current to circulate through the coil from the copper plate to the zinc plate. If the poles of a permanent magnet be presented in turn to the same side of the coil it will be found that there is a force of attraction between one pole of the permanent magnet and the coil, and a force of repulsion between the other pole and the coil. If the same operation be performed on the opposite side of the coil, it will be found that the force between the poles of the magnet and the coil are just the reverse of what they were in the first case; that is, the pole that attracted the coil in the first case will now repel it, and the one that repelled it, will now attract it. Applying one of the fundamental laws of magnetism--like poles attract and unlike repel each other--it can be readily seen that the two sides of the coil are of opposite magnetic polarity.

If the direction of the current around the coil be changed, the action between the coil and the magnet will be opposite to what it was originally, and if the plates be placed in clean water, there will be no current and no attraction or repulsion between the coil and the poles of the magnet.

Double Lock for a Shed

Four boys using the same shed as their workshop wished to lock it so that any one of them could enter alone. Usually only two keys are supplied with a lock, so two locks were purchased and applied to the staples as shown. Each boy was provided with a key and could enter at his pleasure.--Contributed by George Alfred Moore, Versailles, O.

Ferrules for Tool Handles

Discarded metal caps from broken gas-mantle holders should be saved, as they will come in handy for several purposes, such as ferrules on wood handles, and the like. The wire screen is removed from the end, and the cap is fastened to the handle with a nail or screw.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Mallet Made from Wagon-Wheel Felly and Spoke

When in need of a mallet and if an old broken and discarded wagon wheel is at hand, one can be made quickly as follows: Cut through the rim at A and B, and through the spoke at any distance desired, as at C, for instance. The spoke is dressed into the shape of a handle and sandpapered smooth. The section of the felly is used as head and is shaped properly and fastened to the handle with two nails.--Contributed by Mark Gluckman, Jersey City, New Jersey.

A Mystery Sounding Glass

Procure a thin, tapering drinking glass, a piece of thin, black thread, about 2 ft. long, and a long lead pencil. Cut a small groove around the pencil near one end. Make a slip noose in each end of the thread and slip one into the notch and place the thin glass in the other with the thread near the top. When the pencil is revolved slowly the thread will be wound on it slightly and it will slip back with a jerk that produces a ring in the glass. This may be kept up indefinitely. The movement necessary is so small that it is imperceptible. The glass can be made to answer questions by two rings for “yes” and one ring for “no.”

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¶A lighted match held to the outside of a fish-pole joint causes an
expansion of the outer ferrule and allows the pole to be readily
pulled apart.

Repairing a Broken Canoe Paddle

While paddling a rented canoe one day the paddle struck a rock and snapped in two a little below the center of the handle. The boatman laughed at the idea of trying to fix it, but after paying his price for the paddle I decided to try mending it. The barrel of an old bicycle pump was procured and I found that it fitted over the paddle at the break a trifle loosely. It was pushed on the handle out of the way. Then with a No. 8 bit I bored a hole 8 in. deep in the end of each broken part. Into these holes, which formed one cavity when the broken ends were brought together, was forced and glued a tight-fitting 16-in. dowel pin. The outside of the handle was then wrapped with tape for about 10 in. each side of the break, and the pump barrel was forced down over this tape until it completely and firmly enveloped the broken ends.--Contributed by Clarence G. Meyers, Waterloo, Iowa

Tightening Lever for Tennis Nets

Tennis nets are always sagging and to keep them at the proper height requires considerable attention, especially so where the posts are not solidly set in the ground. A very effective net tightener, and one that is easy to make is the lever shown in the illustration. One end of a piece of hardwood board is shaped into a handle the other end being left large. In the latter a hole is cut to fit loosely over the post for the net. The upper end of the post is notched and a sheave pulley is placed in it so that the groove will be in line with the net. The upper rope on the net is run over the pulley and is attached to the lever handle. A downward pressure on the handle draws the rope taut and locks it on the post. It is easily removed from the post and can be left attached to the rope and rolled up in the net when not in use.

A Desk Watch Holder

A watch holder for the desk is a great convenience for the busy worker, and many calendar devices are sold for this purpose, yet they are no more efficient than the one illustrated, which can be made from an ordinary spindle desk file. If the wire is too long it can be cut off and the bend made in it to form a hook for the watch ring.

Cleaning Silverware

To clean silverware or anything made of the precious metals, such as jewelry, etc., is very simple with the following method: Place a piece of zinc in a cup, dish, or any glazed ware; put in the articles to be cleaned, and pour over them a hot solution of water and carbonate of soda--washing soda--in proportions of one tablespoonful of soda to ¹⁄₂ gal. of water. This is a solution and method used by many jewelers for cleaning pins, rings, chains, and many other small articles made in gold and silver.

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¶A machine should never be stopped in the midst of a fine cut.

An Eight-Pointed Star Kite

BY CHARLES M. MILLER

Nearly every boy can make kites of the several common varieties without special directions. For the boy who wants a kite that is not like those every other boy makes, an eight-pointed star kite, decorated in an original and interesting manner, in various colors, is well worth while, even if it requires more careful work, and extra time. The star kite shown in Fig. 1 is simple in construction, and if carefully made, will fly to a great height. It is balanced by streamers instead of the common type of kite tail. Any regular-shaped kite should be laid out accurately, as otherwise the error appears very prominent, and unbalances the poise of the kite.

The frame for this star kite is made of four sticks, joined, as indicated in Fig. 5, with strings running from one corner to the second corner beyond, as from A to C, from C to E, etc. A little notching of each pair of sticks lessens the thickness of the sticks at the center crossing, and strengthens the frame, The sticks are ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₂ in. by 4 ft. long, They are set at right angles to each other in pairs, and lashed together with cord, and also held by a ³⁄₄-in. brad at the center. The strings that form the sides of the squares, A to G, and B to H, must be equal in length when tied. The points where the strings forming the squares cross each other and the sticks are also tied.

The first cover, which is put on with paste, laying it out on a smooth floor or table as usual in kite making, is plain light-colored paper. The darker decorations are pasted onto this. The outside edges of the cover are turned over the string outline, and pasted down. The colors may be in many combinations, as red and white, purple and gold, green and white, etc. Brilliant and contrasting colors are best. The decoration may proceed from the center out, or the reverse. The outside edge in the design shown has a 1¹⁄₂-in. black stripe. The figures are black. The next octagonal black line binds the design together. The points of the star are dark blue, with a gilt stripe on each. The center design is done in black, dark blue, and gilt.

FIG. 4

FIG. 3

FIG. 5

FIG. 1

The Boy Who Makes a Star Kite of This Type will Have a Construction Different from the Common Run of Kites, Especially If He Decorates It in an Attractive Manner]

The flags are tied on, and the tassels are easily made of cord. The outside streamers are at least 6 ft. long, and balanced carefully. Ribbons, or dark-colored lining cambric, are used for them. The funnel-shaped ends balance the kite. They are shown in detail in Figs. 2, 3, and 4, and have 1-in. openings at the bottom, through which the air passes, causing a pull that steadies the kite. They are of dark blue, and the cloth fringe is of light blue. A thin reed, or fine wire, is used for the hoop which stiffens the top. Heavy wrapping or cover paper is used to cover the hoops. It is cut as shown in Fig. 4 and rolled into shape.

A four-string bridle is fastened to the frame at I, J, K, and L, as shown. The upper strings are each 18 in., and the lower ones 32 in. long, to the point where they come together, and must be adjusted after the kite line is fastened at M.

Second Handle on Hoe or Rake Saves Stooping

Anyone who has used a hoe or rake for days at a time will appreciate the labor saved by the attachment for the handle shown in the illustration. It is adjustable to various-sized persons by means of the holes at the front end of the horizontal piece. The two parts are each made of strips joined at the middle portions, and arranged to clamp on the handle of the hoe or rake. In hoeing around shrubs and large plants, the handle may be set to one side.--A. S. Thomas, Amherstburg, Ont., Canada.

Photo-Copying Lens Increases Angle of Camera

Trying to take some indoor pictures I found the angle of my ordinary lens was insufficient to “get in” the various objects I desired. Not having a wide angle lens, I decreased the focal length of the lens by using a copying attachment. The results were quite pleasing and while there is some distortion and less of the plate is covered than usual, there is a remarkable increase in the angle of view. To obtain definition, it is necessary to stop the lens down, but the pictures are very clear.--Samuel L. Pickett, Denver, Colo.

Belt for Sprocket Drive Made of Brass Strips

Being unable to purchase a small driving chain for sprockets made by cutting out every other tooth in gears taken from a clockwork, I used a brass strip, properly punched, and found it satisfactory. The strip was .005 in. thick and the points where the holes were to be punched out were indicated by dividers set from the gears. I made a punch from a nail leaving a small center on it as shown and grinding the end to an oblong shape. I used a piece of sheet lead as a die, on which to punch the strips. The marks made by the dividers provided spots on which to set the center of the punch, making the result quite accurate.--Edward M. Davis, Philadelphia, Pa.

Rain Alarm with Drop-of-Water Contact

An annunciating device, which awakens a person sleeping in a room with the window open and warns him that it is raining, so that he may close the window, is an interesting bit of electrical construction. On the outside of the house, as detailed, is a funnel fixed to the wall. At its small end, two separate wires have their terminals. The wires enter the room at the frame of the window, and connect to an electric bell, and a dry cell. A drop of water entering the funnel, flows down to the small end, falling on the terminals of the wires, and acting as a conductor, completes the circuit, ringing the bell. A switch inside cuts out the circuit, stopping the bell’s ringing.--John M. Chabot, Lauzon, Quebec, Can.

Coaster Steering Gear Made from Cream-Freezer Drive

In rebuilding a wagon into an automobile coaster, I used the driving rod and gears from an old ice-cream freezer, and found that it worked so well that perhaps other boys might be interested in the job. The front of the coaster was covered with a hood, and the steering wheel was set back of it, as shown. The center rod of the freezer was used for the steering post F, and an old rubber-tired wheel was made into a steering wheel. The casting from the top of the freezer, with the gears in it, and the rod on which the turning crank was fastened were set on a block, H, and braced, as shown. The shaft where the crank was fastened, at B, was set through the wagon bed. A crosspiece of iron, A, was wired to the axle D with wires C. A heavy block was used for a turntable. The top end of the casting was fastened to the hood with a brace, G, and the block H steadies the rigging also.--L. Chester Bryant, El Dorado, Ark.

Pad for Glass Vessels Made of Corks

In the kitchen, shop, laboratory, and other places where glass or other fragile dishes or vessels are used, a convenient pad on which to rest them can be made by stringing corks on a strong cord or wire in the form of a ring. Several rings of corks may be used to make a mat, or rings slightly larger in diameter than the bottle or vessel may be made for certain sizes of containers. If desired, the corks may be cut to fit closely on the radial joints, making the resulting ring more secure.

A Shaving Lamp and Mirror for the Camp

To make shaving possible in camp at night, or with little daylight, a small mirror was provided with an electric flash light. The mirror was set to swing free, in a wooden support. The light was fastened slightly above and behind the mirror. and swings at its base, so that it can be tipped upward or downward, throwing the light correspondingly. A piece of wood, 1¹⁄₄ by 3¹⁄₂ in., and as long as the mirror frame is wide, serves as a base. The arms will hold the mirror far enough in front of the lamp to allow room in which to swing. The body of the lamp is set on a block, and held between two wooden pieces, into which a band of iron was set near the top. The uprights move in an arc, pivoting at their lower fastening, on screws.--C. L. Meller, Fargo, N. D.

Automatic Electric Light on Talking-Machine Cabinet

In many homes the phonograph is placed where little light is available in changing the records, setting the needle etc. An electric light which is lighted only while the cover of the phonograph is raised, is well worth installing. A metal arm, A, supports the open cover of the cabinet. When the cover is closed, this arm passes through a slot and takes the position shown by the dotted line. A strip of spring brass, B, is fastened to the inside wall of the cabinet, in the path of the arm, so that it will be pushed down to the off position, as indicated. When the arm releases the strip B, the latter presses against the contact C. A small electric lamp, D, is set in the corner, and electrical connection made to it through B and C, the plug connections passing through the back of the cabinet. When the cover is down, the electric circuit is open, and the moment it is raised, connection is made at C, and the lamp lights. The backs of most phonograph cabinets may be removed easily to make these changes.--M. C. Ball, Kansas City, Mo.

Device for Suspending Parcels from Overhead Hooks

To hang small sacks or other articles out of reach overhead, so that they may be easily taken down, I use a double-eye hook which I made of wire. A single piece of wire is used, and twisted into two loops as shown, and then formed into a twisted hook. I use a pole with a nail, hooking it into the lower loop, to raise the parcel; this leaves the upper loop free to be hooked on the nail above.--E. B. Warren, Garnet, Mont.

Steel Wool as Aluminum-Ware Cleaner

It takes little trouble to keep aluminium pots and pans shining if they are cleaned frequently with steel wool, water, and a nonalkaline soap. Use a very fine grade of the wool, and give the utensils a few rubs frequently rather than attempt to clean them only occasionally, when much soiled.--L. P. Langan, Denver, Colo.

How to Make a Model Old-Four Monoplane

BY RALPH M. BROWN

The old-four monoplane model, made famous by its wonderful flights, is one of the most graceful that has been built. Its large size and slow, even glide make it a much more desirable flier than the ordinary dartlike model. It gives one a true insight into the phenomena of heavier-than-air flight. This machine, when complete, should weigh 9 oz. and fly 1,200 ft., rising from the ground under its own power and landing lightly. Its construction is simple, and with careful reference to the sketches, an exact reproduction may be made.

For the motor bases, A, Fig. 1, secure two spruce sticks, each 48 in. long, ³⁄₈ in. wide, and ¹⁄₄ in. thick, and fasten a wire hook on one end of each stick with thread wound around after giving it a coat of glue. These hooks are to hold one end of the rubber bands that act as the motive power, and are designated by the letter B. At the opposite ends of the sticks, at C, bearings are provided, which consist of blocks of wood, each 1 in. long, 1 in. wide, and ³⁄₈ in. thick. These are also bound in place with thread after gluing them. Holes are drilled through the blocks lengthwise and then lined with bushings made of brass tubing, ¹⁄₁₆ in. in inside diameter. The two motor bases A are connected with four cross sticks, D, each 9 in. long and ³⁄₁₆ in. square. These are bound and glued on the under side, one near each end and the others equidistant each from the other and from the nearest end stick. The front bumper E is made of round rattan, ¹⁄₈ in. in diameter.

The alighting gear is next in order of construction. This is made as shown entirely of bamboo, ³⁄₁₆ in. square. The pieces marked F are 11 in. long; G, 9¹⁄₂ in. long, and the cross bar H, 11 in. long. At the rear, the pieces J are 13 in. long; K, 4¹⁄₂ in. long, and the cross piece L, 11 in. long. The distance between the points M and N, Fig. 2, is 6 in., and between O and P, 9 in. The bamboo is easily curved by wetting and holding it for an instant in the flame of a candle. It will hold its shape just as soon as it becomes cold. The wheels are made of tin, 1¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, borrowed from a toy automobile. The axles are made from wire, ¹⁄₁₆ in. in diameter.

The wing spars Q are made of spruce, ³⁄₁₆ in. wide and ¹⁄₄ in. thick. Those for the front are 30 in. long, and for the rear, 36 in. long. The ribs R are made of bamboo pieces, ¹⁄₁₆ in. square, 5 in. long for the front plane, and 6 in. for the rear. These are bound and glued on top of the spars, 3 in. apart. They are given a slight upward curve. The round ends are made of ¹⁄₁₆-in. rattan.

The Motor Base is Made of Two Spruce Sticks Joined Together with Four Cross Sticks, Bound and Glued to the Under Side]

It is rather difficult to make good propellers, but with a little time and patience they can be shaped and formed into good proportions. Procure two clear, straight-grained blocks of white pine, 8 in. long, 1¹⁄₂ in. wide, and ³⁄₄ in. thick. Draw a diagonal line on one block from opposite corners, as shown at S, Fig. 3, then on the other block T, draw the line in an opposite direction. Turn the blocks over and draw opposite diagonals, as shown by the dotted lines. Draw a circle on each side exactly in the center, ¹⁄₂ in. in diameter. Drill ¹⁄₁₆-in. holes through the centers of the circles for the propeller shafts. The wood is then cut down to the lines drawn, leaving only enough material so that they will not break easily. The face of the blades should be flat and the back rounded. Leave plenty of stock near the hub. After the faces have been finished, the blades are shaped as shown at U. The propellers should be finished with sandpaper to make them perfectly smooth, as much of the success of the model will depend upon them. It will be a good plan to shellac them, and also the frame and the alighting gear. Aluminum paint costs but little, and it makes a fine finish for a model aeroplane.

The propeller shafts V, Fig. 1, 2, and 4, are cut from bicycle spokes. An eye for the rubber band is bent in the spoke, about 2 in. from the threaded end. The end having the threads is run through the bearing block C, Fig. 4, and the propeller fastened on with a small washer on each side of it by means of two nuts, W, cut from a bicycle nipple. These nuts may be turned up tightly with pliers.

The planes are covered with tissue paper put on tightly over the tops of the ribs, using a flour paste. The planes are movably fixed on the motor bases A by tying at the four points of contact with rubber bands. This makes it possible to adjust the fore-and-aft balance of the machine by changing the position of the planes.

The motive power, which is the most important part of the entire machine, consists of rubber bands. There are three ways of obtaining these bands. It is best, if possible, to purchase them from an aeroplane supply house. In this case, procure about 100 ft. of ¹⁄₁₆-in. square rubber, 50 ft. for each side. These are wound closely between the hooks X. This rubber can be taken from a golf ball. It will require about 40 strands of this rubber, which is removed by cutting into the ball, on each propeller. Another way of obtaining the bands is to purchase No. 19 rubber bands and loop them together, chain-fashion, to make them long enough to reach between the hooks without stretching. About 30 strands on each propeller will be sufficient. The hooks X are made in the shape of the letter “S,” to provide a way for taking out the rubber bands quickly. To prevent the hooks from cutting the rubber, slip some ¹⁄₁₆-in. rubber tubing over them. The rubber bands, or motor, when not in use, should be kept in a cool, dark place and powdered with French chalk to prevent the parts from sticking together.

The Alighting Gear is Made Entirely of Bamboo and Attached to the Under Side of the Motor Frame]

With the model complete, flying is the next thing in order. With a machine as large as this one, quite a field will be necessary to give it a good flight. Test the plane by gliding it, that is, holding it up by the propellers and bearing blocks on a level with your head and throwing it forward on an even keel. Shift the planes forward or back until it balances and comes to the ground lightly.

Winding up the propellers is accomplished by means of an eye inserted in the chuck of an ordinary hand drill. While an assistant grasps the propellers and motor bearings the rubber is unhooked from the front of the machine and hooked into the eye in the drill. Stretch the rubber out for about 10 ft., and as it is wound up, let it draw back gradually. Wind up the propellers in opposite directions, turning them from 400 to 800 revolutions. Be sure to wind both propellers the same number of turns, as this will assure a straight flight.

The Most Difficult Part of Making the Propellers can be Overcome with a Little Patience]

Set the machine on the ground and release both propellers at once, and at the same time push it forward. If everything is properly constructed and well balanced, the mechanical bird will run about 5 ft. on the ground and then rise to 15 or 20 ft. and fly from 800 to 1,200 ft., descending in a long glide and alighting gracefully.

The Motive Power, Which Is the Most Important Part of the Machine, Consists of Rubber Bands]

If the machine fails to rise, move the forward plane toward the front. If it climbs up suddenly and hangs in the air and falls back on its tail, move it toward the back.

After the novelty of overland flights has worn off, try flights over the water. To do this the wheels must be removed and four pontoons put in their place, as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 2. The pontoons are made over a light frame, constructed as shown in Fig. 5. The frame pieces are bamboo, ¹⁄₈ in. square. Each one is 8 in. long, 4 in. wide, and 2 in. deep. The covering consists of writing paper glued in place, after which the whole surface is covered with melted paraffin to make it water-tight.

Framework for Constructing Pontoons by Covering Them with Writing Paper Soaked in Paraffin]

No doubt various methods will be suggested by the time such flights are made, such as smaller planes for racing, larger ones for altitude and duration, etc. To make the machine carry weights, build a duplicate set of planes and fasten them 6 in. above the others by means of struts, ³⁄₁₆ in. square, forming a tandem biplane, as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 2.

Patience is the one thing necessary in model budding. Sometimes a machine carefully made will not fly, and no one can make it do so until some seemingly unimportant alteration is made.

How to Make a Pair of Trammels

The making of these trammels is a very nice workshop problem for a school, as it requires a very small amount of stock and a corresponding degree of skill, and at the same time adds a little something to the general shop equipment.

The brass is best procured in strips, which may be had in different widths, except the bar, which is ¹⁄₄ in. thick and not less than ³⁄₄ in. wide. The steel for the points may be the ordinary steel, or if the trammels are to be used on woodwork, very satisfactory points can be made of heavy nails.

Cut two pieces of brass, 4¹⁄₄ in. long, and straighten them with a wood or rawhide mallet on a surface plate. Draw center lines both ways through each piece and lay out the openings for the bar with a sharp scriber, and make a center-punch mark for the ¹⁄₈-in. hole that is to be drilled at the intersection of the center lines. Mark the lines where the piece is to be bent, and with a pair of dividers lay out the ends and shape them with a file.

The center hole and bar openings are next drilled, and the latter finished by filing. It is better to plane up a short piece of hard wood, ¹⁄₄ by ¹³⁄₁₆ in., and use it as a gauge in filing the rectangular openings than to try to make them by measurement. Polish the brass pieces with a piece of fine emery cloth or paper, rubbing it in straight lines lengthwise of the stock.

The bending is done by clamping the pieces in a vise and bending first one side and then the other on the lines indicated. This will require some care, as the upper ends should be 1¹⁄₄ in. apart on the inside when the bending is complete. To insure the same angle on both sides, a template of wood is used, and the pieces are carefully bent to fit it.

The holes for the points are reamed tapering from the inside, where they are riveted in place. The points are filed to shape and polished, which is best accomplished in a lathe. Clamp one of the points in an upright position in a vise with the shouldered end up. Slip one of the brass pieces in place and rivet by upsetting the projecting end with a light hammer.--Contributed by J. A. Shelly, Brooklyn, N. Y.

Seeding Bare Spots on Lawns

A lawn that shows patches of grass with bare spots, or only partly covered with grass can be sown with seed that will fill the uncovered places by using the tool illustrated. It is made of a block of wood, 1 in. thick, into which several large nails are driven so that their ends project about 1¹⁄₂ in. Another block is fastened on top of the nail heads to keep them from pushing out of their holes. A handle is attached to the latter block.

The tool is used by driving it into the earth where there is no grass, or in thin places, and the grass seed is sprinkled into the holes. In raking over the lawn the young grass is not so apt to be torn out and destroyed before it gets a good root.--Contributed by Edmund H. Trabold, Orange, N. J.

A Porch Swing

The seat of the swing consists of a board, 30 in. long, 14 in. wide, and 1 in. thick, with holes bored in each corner for the ropes. The rail at the top is made of four oak pieces, two of them 30 in. long, for the sides, and the other two 18 in. long, for the ends; all 3 in. wide and ⁷⁄₈ in. thick. The ends of these pieces are finished rounding, and holes are bored in them for the supporting ropes. The supports for the rails consist of four pieces of ³⁄₄-in. pipe, 15 in. long. The ropes are run through the holes in the ends of the rails, down through the pipes and through the holes in the seat board, where they are knotted.

A rope tied to a convenient post or screw hook makes a handy way to give motion by pulling. To get into the swing, raise one of the side rails on the rope.--Contributed by Ward M. Mills, Bakersfield, Cal.

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¶Cover the top and side of ice in a refrigerator with a piece of
Canton flannel, and the ice will last longer.

Sheepshank Knot Used to Recover Rope

The knot shown has a peculiar characteristic which enables a person to recover the rope after letting himself down from some elevated position. After the rope has been tied firmly to some support, as a limb of a tree, tie this knot, or “sheepshank,” as high up as possible. Close inspection will show that one of the three sections of the knot holds no part of the weight below. This section is identified as the portion which projects through the loops A and B at both ends. The other sections project through at one end only. When the knot has been arranged, slide down carefully to a position just below it and cut the rope at C; then descend to the ground. By shaking the rope the knot may be loosened, and only a short piece will be left attached to the support.--Contributed by F. R. Gorton, Ypsilanti, Michigan.

Writing Two Colors on a Plain-Ribbon Typewriter

To write red, or any other color, on a one-color ribbon typewriter place a long enough piece of red carbon paper, or the color desired, between the ribbon and the paper. It will hold its place quite well, does the work as well as a two-color ribbon used on expensive machines, and does not cost very much.--Contributed by Leslie E. Turner, New York City.

A Simple Card Deception

The effect of this trick is not new, but the method is a new one. A card is selected by a spectator and noted, then returned to the pack, which is shuffled by the one drawing the card. Despite the thorough mixing the correct card is located by cutting the pack. The secret is this: When the card is chosen, the chooser is allowed to remove it from the pack. The performer then takes it and holds it up and asks the audience to fix it in their minds. While doing this, allow the thumb nail of the index finger to slightly graze the edge of the card. This will not show, nor can it be detected by the holder, and he suspects nothing of the kind. When returned to the deck and shuffled the pack is evened up for cutting. A glance at the edges will show a small white spot distinctly, as the scraped edge will contrast with the other soiled cards. It is simple to cut the pack from this key.--Contributed by John C. Moorehead, Minneapolis, Minn.

Catching Minnows for Bait

Instead of chasing the little fish up and down the stream to catch enough for bait, try putting a clean bit of shell in a wide-mouth jar and holding it in the water. The minnows will be attracted in great numbers, and it is an easy matter to dip them up. A bit of shell can be used also in a net. The white, shining shell seems to be a good lure for the little fellows.--Contributed by Miriam Colchester, Amherst, Can.

Grinding Writing and Lettering Pens

A fine or coarse writing or lettering pen can be produced quickly by means of an oilstone. By rubbing it at the sides of the nibs, the pen is made finer, and grinding across the ends makes it coarser. By grasping the penholder in the normal writing position, and writing lightly on the surface of the stone, the pen may be ground to the style of the user, making it write more smoothly. If the pen scratches, a slight touching up on the stone, which should be a fine hone, will remedy the difficulty.

Pneumatic Door Check Made of Bicycle Pump

A door was provided with a heavy coiled spring that caused it to slam shut, and in order to overcome this nuisance, a check was made from an old bicycle pump. The fittings being worked out neatly, did not mar the appearance of the woodwork. Band iron, ¹⁄₈ by 1¹⁄₂ in., was used for the fittings. A clamp, as detailed, was made to hold the end of the pump cylinder. A bracket, 5¹⁄₂ in. long, of similar iron was fastened to the door, as shown, with screws, and the clamp bolted to it. The end of the plunger was extended and bent at a right angle, so as to pivot in a small angle bracket attached to the trim, as shown in the front view. An air-release hole was provided, as indicated, so that the air was freed from the cylinder gradually as the door closed, thus preventing slamming.--P. P. Avery, Garfield, New Jersey.

Convenient Tool Drawer under Chair Seat

For the householder who does small repairing occasionally at home, a sliding drawer under his working chair will be found a convenience. The tools are always handy when he sits down to his work, and he can put them away again without arising from the chair. This arrangement is also useful in small shops where a chair or stool is used for tinkering and light bench work.--James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Red Windows in Daylight Photographic Workroom

Instead of the customary dark room, with the expense of red incandescent lamps or the evil-smelling oil lamp, the photographer who works during the day should have a red room, obtained by means of a window with panes of red glass. The amateur can cover the windows with red cloth, through which will penetrate a diffuse red light of the desired quality. This is far superior to the common practice of providing an opaque screen, blocking up the windows, etc., and the screen can be made of red cloth instead of black cloth, just as handily. Proper ventilation should, of course, be provided.--Alfred J. Miller, Albuquerque, N. M.

A Model Paper Monoplane That can be Steered

3 5 7

9

4 6

2 8

10

The Method of Folding the Paper is Indicated Clearly in the Diagram, Which are to be Followed in the Order of Their Numbering, the Tail being Inserted Separately]

An interesting bit of paper construction is a small monoplane made from a 7-in. square of paper, folded as indicated in the diagram and provided with a paper tail. This little monoplane can be steered by adjusting the tail, and even made to loop the loop in the varying air currents. For the boy who enjoys experimenting with such a model this little construction offers much instruction and entertainment, and the grown-up who still has an interest in such things will also find it a worth-while job.

To make this model, fold a square of medium-weight paper on the dotted lines, as indicated in Fig. 1 in the diagram. Then unfold the sheet and refold it as in Fig. 2. Then bring the folded corners A and B into position, as shown at A and B in Fig. 3. Fold the corners C and D upward to the position C and D in Fig. 4. Fold corners G and H to the corresponding letters in Fig. 5. Fold points J and K to the corresponding letters in Fig. 6. Raise the points J and K, Fig. 6, and fold them in so that the corners which were below them in Fig. 6 now come above them, as at L and M in Fig. 7. Fold the corner N back along the line OP, Fig. 8, so that the shape of the main portion of the model is as shown in Fig. 9, at OP. Make the tail 1¹⁄₂ by 14 in. long, as shown in Fig. 10, and paste it into position. This completes the model, which can be steered by bending or twisting the tail.--George H. Stipp.

Roll-Film Spools Useful in Economizing Pencils

Now that everyone should economize, short lead pencils should receive attention. A convenient lengthener is easily made by removing the metal ends from used film-camera spools, the 3¹⁄₄-in. length being the best size to use. The pencil is cut to fit the unslotted end of the spindle tightly. An eraser may be fitted in the slotted end. In a school quite a saving was made by collecting the short pencils of the pupils and having them thus fitted up in the workshop.--A. T. Moss, Napa, Calif.

How to Use the Lawn Mower

Difficulty in the operation of a lawn mower is often caused by failure to use the machine properly. A lawn mower cuts like scissors except that one of the members is fixed. The cutters pass over the cutting bar at an angle and thus shear off the grass. The machine tends to throw the grass off to one side, usually toward the left; hence the machine should not be permitted to throw the cut grass back into the uncut patch. This may be prevented by passing around the lawn so that the uncut grass is at the right of the operator.--W. H. Kruse, Fort Wayne, Ind.

Telegraph Recorder with Spool-and-Pencil Indicator

A simple substitute for the somewhat complicated telegraph recorders of the inking type may be constructed of materials readily available to a boy. The instrument shown in the sketch was made in a short time and with no special outlay. The base and the upright support are of wood. The armature A was made of a strip cut from a tin box, and folded to a length of 4 in.

The recording device consists of a short piece of pencil, P, set in a spool, S. The electromagnet M is fixed to the base, and the armature A is actuated when current is permitted to pass through the magnet, causing the recording pencil to move vertically. A strip of paper is moved slowly under the pencil, and in order to make the record regular a small channel-shaped guide of metal may be arranged under the pencil.--William Warnecke, Jr., New York City.

Campers’ Bait Cache

Campers desiring a sure supply of angleworms for fishing will find the bait cache shown in the sketch convenient and practical. A box, about 18 in. long and 10 in. square on the end, is sunk into the ground in a shady place, and all the bait dug by the campers on their arrival is placed into it. The soil used to fill the box should be rich, black loam, quite moist but not wet enough to be sticky. A few inches of the top of the box is left unfilled and a double layer of green sod is fitted over it, as shown in the sectional view at the right. The upper sod is arranged level with the surface of the ground and should be cut carefully so that it will not be observed by prowlers. If the region where fishing is to be done is such that angleworms cannot be obtained easily, it is best to dig them before starting for the camp. The bait cache may then be made as a convenient place in which to keep the bait in good condition for fishing.

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¶After cleaning a shotgun, or a rifle, a cork large enough to be seen
readily should be placed in the end of the barrel to prevent rusting.
The cork should not be pressed into the end deeply as, if it is
forgotten and the firearm discharged without removing it, a dangerous
explosion may result.

A Sail-Rigged Wind Motor

BY E. R. HENDERSON

Ample power for driving light machines in a repair shop was obtained by the use of a wind motor like that shown in the sketch and in the detail drawings. The device has numerous other applications, particularly as a substitute for wind motors that require a high tower, as in the driving of a pump. As an interesting and inexpensive means of providing power for a home or boy’s workshop, or as an experimental device, the motor is also worth while making. The materials used are easily obtainable, and the construction can be carried out with ordinary tools, for the most part. The driving connections may be obtained from old machine parts. The dimensions given are for a motor of considerable size, and may, of course, be reduced proportionately for a lighter machine. If the device is made by boys, the framework and other parts should be made one-half as large as the sizes indicated. The wood used should then be three-fourths as thick as that shown. The roof of the structure upon which the device is mounted must be well braced and strong enough to stand the strain. The sails are headed toward the wind, like those on a sailboat, when the motor is at rest, by means of a control rod, F, shown in the working drawing.

The main structural portion is a vertical beam, or tower, tapered at the ends and built up of 1 by 1-in. rods, strongly braced, especially in the lower portion, as indicated. It is 14 ft. high, and built around an 18-in. square board, A, notched at the corners to receive the posts. A similar 14-in. square, B, is built into the lower portion. The lower end of the tower is pivoted on the ridge of the roof on a hollow shaft made from a section of iron pipe, D, and provided with a metal bearing washer, E. The pipe D is split at its upper end, as shown in detail, and fastened to the wooden plate B. The control rod F passes up through the pipe D, and is fixed to the control wires, reaching the sails, by means of a leather strap, from which an iron swivel, C, is suspended, as shown in the detail at the left. The ends of the strap pass over pulleys, fixed to the lower side of the plate A, and connect with the sail-control wires. Spiral wire springs are attached to the wire connected to each end of the strap, as shown only at the right sail beam, and aid in controlling the sails. These springs are adjusted so that when the control rod is drawn down to its lowest extent, the sails will be with the edge “into the wind,” thus neutralizing each other, and causing the sail beam to be at rest.

The sail beam extends 9 ft. out from the center of the tower, and is built up of three pieces. The center section extends through the tower, above the plate A, and the brace beam, which crosses it at right angles, as shown in the perspective sketch, and also at the detail of the strap arrangement. The center section is of 1 by 4-in. stock, and the end portions are of 1 by 2-in. stuff, fastened securely, as shown at detail G. The sails are supported on masts, 1 in. square, pivoted at their junctions with the sail beam, as shown at detail G, and in guy-wire plates at their extreme ends, as shown at detail J. The fastening and bracing of the gaffs at the mast ends is also shown at J.