Chapter XIV: Part I: A Dragon Kite

Dragon kites are made as hideous as the maker can possibly conceive, and while the one to be considered is no beauty, it is more droll than fierce-looking. In general appearance the dragon and centipede kites are like huge caterpillars floating about in the air. The kite sometimes twists and the balancer sticks appear to be large hairy spines. Usually the tail end swings higher than the head. It is like so many single kites, pulls hard, and requires a strong cord for the line. The individual circular sections may number 20, and if placed 30 in. apart, would make a kite about 50 ft. in length, or the number of sections may be more or less to make it longer or shorter. The kite will fold up into a very small space, for carrying about or for storage, but care should be taken in folding not to entangle the harness.

The Head

The head requires much more work than any of the other sections. There are two principal rings to this section, as shown in Fig. 1. The inner ring is the more important, the outer one being added for the protection of the points when alighting. The construction of the framework is shown in Fig. 2. It is made entirely of bamboo. The bamboo is split into strips, about ³⁄₁₆ in. wide, for the ring A. As the bamboo strips will be much too thick, they must be pared down to less than ¹⁄₁₆ in. The diameter of the ring A is 12 in., and a strip of bamboo to make this ring should be about 38 in. long, so that there will be some end for making a lap joint. The ends of the strip are held securely together by winding them with linen thread. The Chinese boys use strips of rice paper, about ¹⁄₂ in. wide and torn lengthwise of the paper. The rice-paper strips are made wet with paste before winding them on the joint, and when they dry out the shrinkage will bind the ends securely.

Two crosspieces, of the same weight as the ring stick, are placed 3¹⁄₂ in. apart, at equal distances from the center and parallel, as shown at B and C. The ends of these pieces are turned at a sharp angle and lashed to the inside surface of the ring A. To make these bends, heat the bamboo over a candle flame until it will give under pressure, then bend and it will stay in shape after it becomes cold. This method of bending should be remembered, as it is useful in making all kinds of kites. Two small rings, each 3¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, are put in between the two parallel pieces, as shown at D and E. These are for the eyes of the dragon. The rings are lashed to the two crosspieces B and C. As the eyes revolve in the rings they should be made perfectly true. This can be done by shaping the bamboo about a perfectly round cylinder, 3¹⁄₂ in. in diameter. To stiffen the whole framework, two pieces of bamboo, ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick, ¹⁄₈ in. wide, and 20 in. long, are lashed to the back as shown by F and G. There is a space of 3 in. between the inner ring A and the outer ring H, giving the latter a diameter of 18 in. It is made of a bamboo strip, ¹⁄₈ in. wide, and should be less than ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick. It may be necessary to make this large ring from two pieces of bamboo, to get the length, and in such case be careful to make a perfect ring with the ends well lashed together. Two short pieces are lashed to the two rings, as shown at J and K. The supports for the horns consist of two pieces, ¹⁄₈ in. wide and less than ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick, and they are lashed to the upper crosspiece and to both rings, so that the parts L and M are exactly halfway between the ends of the pieces F and G and radiate out from the center of the ring A, the other parts, N and O, pointing to the center of the eye rings, respectively. The ears are unimportant and may be put on if desired. The rings on the horns and the stick ends may be from ¹⁄₂ to 2 in. in diameter, cut from stiff paper, but if larger, made of bamboo.

The Kite-Head Section, Having Horns, Ears, and Revolving Eyes, Is Very Hideous]

The Framework for the Head Section is Made Entirely of Bamboo Strips Lashed at the Joints]

Chinese rice paper is the best material for covering, and it should be stretched tightly so that there will be no buckling or bagging places. The only part covered is that inside of the inner ring A, the horns, and the ears, leaving the eye rings open. The shades are put on with a brush and water colors, leaving the face white, or it can be tinted in brilliant colors. Leave the horns white and color the tongue red.

The Eyes

The frame for each eye is made of bamboo, pared down to ¹⁄₃₂ in. in thickness and formed into a perfect ring, 3¹⁄₄ in. in diameter. Each ring revolves on an axle made of wire passed through the bamboo exactly on the diameter, as shown at P, Fig. 3. The wire should be long enough to pass through the socket ring D or E, Fig. 2, also, and after the eye ring is in place in the socket ring and the axle adjusted, the latter is fastened to the eye ring with a strip of paper wrapped tightly around the wire and pasted to the bamboo of the ring. A glass bead, placed on the wire axle between the socket rings D or E and the eye ring Q on each side, keeps them apart and the revolving one from striking the other.

Each side of the eye ring is covered halfway with rice paper, as shown in Fig. 4. The part R is on the upper front half, and that shown by S is on the back lower half. Placing the two halves in this manner causes an unequal pressure of the wind on the whole eyepiece, and thus causes it to revolve on the axle. The front upper half of the eyepiece is made black, and the smaller dark portion extending below the darkened half is a round piece of paper placed just between the two halves so that half of it will show on both front and back of the eyepiece. When the eyepiece is given a half turn in its socket the back side will come to the front and will appear just the same as the other side. Some kite builders add pieces of mirror glass to the eyes, to reflect the light and cause flashes as the eyes revolve in their sockets.

A Section Kite

The ring for the section kite is made the same size as the inner ring of the head kite, or in this case 12 in. in diameter. The bamboo for making this ring should be ¹⁄₈ in. wide and ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick. The balancer stick, 36 in. long, is located about the same place as the cross-stick F, as shown in Fig. 2, and must be made small, light and well balanced. Small tufts of tissue paper, or feathers, are attached to the tip ends of the balancer sticks, as shown in Fig. 5. The cover for the section kite is put on tightly, the same as for the head, the colors indicated in the sketch being only suggestions, as the builder can color them as desired. The balancer on the last section should have streamers, as shown in Fig. 6, for a finish. The streamers are made of light cloth.

FIG. 4

Two Bamboo Rings with Paper Coverings, to Make Them Turn in the Wind, Constitute the Eyes]

FIG. 6

FIG. 7

FIG. 8

FIG. 5

The Section Kites Have Balancers and the Disks are Given Bright Colors So That They will Produce the Effect of a Great Dragon When in the Air, the Head Piece Having a Ball Balancer Hanging from the Under Edge]

The Harness

As previously stated, 20, more or less, sections can be used, and the number means so many separate kites which are joined together with three long cords, spacing the sections 30 in. apart. The cords should be as long as the kite from the head to the tail, allowing sufficient extra length for the knots. As such a kite will make a hard pull, the cord used should be a six-ply, hard-twisted seine twine. Start by tying the three long cords to the head kite at the points T, U, and V, Fig. 2. Tie the next section at corresponding places just 30 in. from the head kite. The construction will be much easier if the head kite is fastened to a wall so that each cord may be drawn out to its proper length. Continue the tying until all sections are attached just 30 in. apart. Other spacing can be used, but the distance selected must be uniform throughout the length of the kite. The individual kites, or sections, may vary in size, or they can all be 9 in. in diameter, instead of 12 in., and the balancer sticks 30 in. long instead of 36 in., but a kite of uniform sections is much better and is easier to make. The positions of the sections as they will appear in the kite are shown in Fig. 7.

The Bridle

The Chinese bridle is usually made of three strings, which are attached to the same points on the head kite as the harness cords, or at T, U, and V. The lower string is longer than the two upper ones so that the proper inclination will be presented to the breeze. As the head is inclined, all the section kites will also be inclined. Some makers prefer a balancer on the head kite, and in one instance such a balancer was made in the shape of a ball. A ball made of bamboo strips is shown in Fig. 8, and is attached as shown in Fig. 7.

Flying the Kite

It will be necessary to have a helper, and perhaps two, in starting the kite up, as the harness might become entangled. Quite a little run will be necessary, but when up the kite will make a steady flier and will pull very hard. If the first attempt is unsuccessful, try readjustment of the bridle or a little different position in the breeze, and see that the balancers are not tangled. Quite a number of changes may be worked out on these plans, but it is necessary to bear in mind that the distances between sections must be equal and that the general construction must be maintained.

A Movable Sunshade and Seat for Garden Workers

Weeding gardens under a hot sun and in a necessarily uncomfortable position is by no means a pleasant occupation, but much of the hardship can be avoided if a combination movable sunshade and seat is made, as shown in the illustration. The framework consists of two end pieces, both made in the same way. Two ¹⁄₂-in. tees are required for each. These are connected with a 5-ft. pipe, for the upright, and the crosspiece that supports one end of the canvas consists of two pieces of pipe, each about 1¹⁄₂ ft. long, screwed into the tee. The axle for the wheels is also formed of two pieces of pipe, but these are only about 1 ft. long.

Four suitable cart wheels should be provided, or solid circular disks cut out of a board or plank, and drilled for a ³⁄₈-in. axle. Ordinary ³⁄₈-in. washers are placed on each side of the wheels, one serving as a shoulder on the pipe end, and the other for the nut. The seat can be made of a 1 by 8-in. board, about 6 ft. 9 in. long, notched at each end to fit the pipe tees and prevented from shifting by means of U-bolts around the axle on either side of the upright. After covering the top with canvas, fastened at each end around the upper crosspiece, the shaded movable seat is ready for service.--Contributed by W. E. Crane, Cleveland, Ohio.

To Keep Grass and Weeds Out of Tennis Courts

Tennis courts are very apt to become covered with grass and weeds unless considerable labor is expended on them. The best way to keep a court free from this growth is to put on sheets of tar paper close together when it is not in use. The paper should be cut in strips the proper length, so that they can be rolled up and set aside until the game is over, when they can be laid down again. After the court has been covered a few times, the grass will die out and disappear altogether. The use of salt, acids, and a number of other things, together with hoeing, were tried out, but the paper covering was the most successful of them all.--Contributed by W. D. Mills, Bakersfield, Cal.

Buttonhole-Bouquet Holder to Keep Cut Flowers Fresh

Being employed near a glass-blowing department I procured a small glass tube and made a buttonhole-bouquet holder. One end of the tube I closed and flared the other, then flattened the whole tube a bit. This tube, inserted in the buttonhole with a few drops of water in it, will keep cut flowers fresh for a whole day. If the upper end is flared just right it will fit the buttonhole and will not be seen, as the tube is hidden beneath the coat lapel.--Contributed by Frank Reid.

Cooler for a Developing Tray

Regardless of the fact that tank development for photography is the better method under most conditions, there are many who take special delight in tray development, because they enjoy seeing the picture as it develops on the plate or film.

There are many of this class of photographers both among amateurs and professionals, and they universally experience much trouble in keeping the solutions cool enough for good work in hot weather or a warm dark room. Many schemes have been used, but there is none simpler than that shown in the illustration. It is certainly better than letting the developing tray float in the bathtub, a common practice among amateurs who are compelled to use the bathroom as a dark room.

Any tinsmith can make a water-jacketed tray of zinc at a nominal price. If one expects to use it for developing films by hand, it should be made relatively deep, or at least shaped so that whatever method is used in manipulating the film will be suited to the size and shape of the tray. I had one made of zinc to accommodate an 8 by 10-in. plate and providing about ¹⁄₄-in. space all around the sides and bottom of the inner tray for the circulation of the water.

Two brass gas tips were soldered into the ends of the tray and a rubber tube was attached to one of them, as shown. By connecting this tray to the bathroom hydrant the developing solution can be kept as cool as desired without slopping water where it is not wanted.--Contributed by T. B. Lambert, Chicago, Ill.

Doorbell Push Button on Screen Door

Push buttons are frequently put in hallways, or other places, not accessible when the screen doors are hooked shut. By connecting an extra button on the screen door with the regular doorbell line, the service can be made to go on uninterrupted whether the screen be locked or open.

To do this, one wire, carefully insulated, from the outside button is laid under the upper molding strip of the screen, as shown, coming out through the hinge and passing down to the battery line, being concealed in any suitable manner, by molding or within the door frame. The button circuit is completed by connecting it to the screen with a short wire, the screen then acting as a conductor. If preferred, the line may be run down under the screen-door molding, and out through the bottom hinge same as with the other wire at the top. If the screen is used as conductor, a piece of wire should be connected to it near the bottom, and led through the hinge as before. In either case, after leaving the hinge, the wire must be led and connected to the battery line, to complete the circuit. It is then possible to operate the bell either from outside of the screen door or at the regular place within.--Contributed by E. M. Davis, Philadelphia, Pa.

Working Wood by the Application of Heat

It is often desirable to fit a piece of wood into a piece of metal by means of cutting a thread in the metal and screwing the wood therein. This can be accomplished by heating the metal to a little over the boiling point of water and screwing the wood piece into the metal while hot; or, if this is impractical on account of size, to heat the metal, make a screw plate by cutting a thread in a small piece of metal, the size and thread corresponding to the hole into which the wood piece is to be inserted, and heating it to the required temperature, then running the wood with some pressure through the thread. The wood then can be screwed into the larger piece, where it will hold firmly.

The process of heating wood without the aid of steam can be used to advantage in a number of ways; for instance, a hammer handle that is crooked can be straightened by careful heating without burning; also billiard cues, or almost anything of hard wood. It is surprising how easily it is done and how permanent the repair will be. The Indians at one time made their arrows from small hardwood twigs which were almost always crooked to start with, but after being dried they were warmed over a fire and straightened.

Another use for the application of heat is as follows: When it is desired to place a screw in a fragile piece of wood that is likely to split, if the screw is heated to a blue color and turned into the wood while hot, there will be scarcely any danger of splitting. In this case do not try to use oil or a lubricant of any kind, as the screw is sure to set before it is in place.--Contributed by James H. Beebee, Rochester, N. Y.

A Parlor Table

The material required for the parlor table illustrated is as follows:

1 table top, 1 by 26 by 41 in.

1 bottom shelf, 1 by 15 by 35 in.

2 side rails, ³⁄₄ by 4 by 33 in.

2 end rails, ³⁄₄ by 4 by 21 in.

2 top cross braces, 1 by 4 by 19¹⁄₂ in.

4 feet, 1³⁄₄ by 4 by 4 in.

2 posts, 6 by 6 by 26 in.

2 side corner strips, 1 by 1 by 31¹⁄₂ in.

2 end corner strips, 1 by 1 by 17¹⁄₂ in.

The bottom shelf can be made of two pieces of 1-in. material, 8 in. wide, carefully glued together, and reinforced on the under side with two crosspieces, glued and screwed to it. The foot pieces are secured to the bottom shelf so as to project 1 in. on the ends and sides. In case a center support is deemed advisable, another foot piece can be added, but unless the floor is very level, rocking may result. The uprights, or posts, are made from solid 6 by 6-in. lumber, 26 in. long, carefully squared at the ends, and tapered to 4 in. square at the upper end. If desired, the posts can be made of boards, cut and fastened together to form a hollow tapered post. In either case, they should be set in about 4 in. from each side of the bottom shelf and fastened to it by means of screws.

The rail pieces for the table top should be cut and fitted with mitered joints at the corner to form a rectangular frame, 21 by 33 in. This is glued to the top and may be toenailed to it; but to provide a more secure bracing, a 1-in. square strip of material is fastened all around the inside edge of the rails, flush with their upper edge. The top is screwed to this. In order to prevent tipping when the top is resting on the 4 by 4-in. ends of the posts, two cross braces are provided. These should be screwed to the outer-end sides of the posts, and beveled off on their upper edges to fit the table top. They should be of such length as to have a tight fit between the side rails, and are fastened to these by means of finishing nails driven from the outside. Gluing and toenailing can also be used to secure the top more firmly to the braces; care should be taken that no nails cut through the table top. After thoroughly sandpapering and smoothing off the table, it can be finished to suit.--Contributed by H. J. Blacklidge, San Rafael, Cal.

Homemade Fuses for Battery Circuits

To carry out the general arrangement of the regular electrical equipment of a large power plant, the battery circuit should have some sort of a fuse block. An excellent way to make such a block is as follows: Procure a piece of glass tubing, about 1 in. long, and make a mounting for it with four pieces of sheet brass, as shown in the sketch. The brass pieces are shaped and fastened to a wood base so that their upper ends form a clamp to hold the glass tube.

A very thin piece of tinfoil, about 1¹⁄₂ in. long, is cut ¹⁄₈ in., or less, in width, the size depending on the amount of current used. This is placed in the glass tube and the ends are bent over the edge. A piece of tinfoil is then wrapped around each end, over the ends of the inclosed piece, and pasted to the tube.

The fuse thus made is pushed into the spring clamps of the block which are connected in the circuit.--Contributed by Charles W. Meinberg, Somerville, Mass.

Reproducing Flowers and Leaves in Colors

A very cheap, easy, and quick way to make reproductions of flowers, leaves, insects, butterflies, etc., is the following: Purchase 1 oz. of bichromate of potash and dissolve it in water. Spread this fluid over the surface of the paper upon which the picture is to be made, using a soft brush, and place it in a dark room to dry. When dry it will be a light lemon color.

The leaf, or part to be reproduced, is placed upon the yellow side of the paper and the whole exposed to the sunlight. The uncovered portions will gradually turn brown, while the part covered by the object will remain a lemon color. When the desired shade of brown is attained, remove the paper from the sunlight, and the image of the object will be on the paper.

Go over the outline with crayons or colors, and fill in the print according to the natural colors. Very beautiful pictures may be made in this way, and a butterfly made up in natural colors on a dark-brown ground is very pretty. These prints, uncolored, will keep for some time, if they are not exposed to a strong light.

Washing as ordinary photographic prints are treated will improve them a little. If the instructions are followed, many beautiful objects can be preserved in color.--Contributed by J. B. Murphy, Plainfield, N. J.

Dishwasher and Drier

Where hot water is available the dishwasher illustrated is especially suitable. It is easily constructed and inexpensive, the only real expense being for the tank, which is 15 in. deep and 20 in. in diameter. A washer of these dimensions will hold the dishes from a table serving six to eight persons. The tank may be supported on legs if desired.

The supports for holding the dishes in a vertical position are made of wire in a U-shape, the ends being fastened into two wood hoops that snugly fit the inside of the tank, one near the bottom and the other about 9 in. above the first one. The wires are set about 1¹⁄₂ in. apart and radiate from the center like wire spokes in a wheel.

A funnel-shaped piece, having a hole 5 in. in diameter in the center, is made of mesh wire and hung in place with several wires running to the upper edge of the tank. Hooks are attached to the edge of the hole on which cups and glasses are hung.

The cover consists of a wood disk, with a hole bored in its center for a ¹⁄₂-in. pipe. The piece of pipe used should be 3 or 4 in. longer than the depth of the tank. A long thread is cut on the lower end of the pipe, and two rectangular holes are cut in the pipe end through the threaded part. These holes are made by cutting through the pipe as if making a slot for a key. Two large nuts are run on the threads of the pipe. These nuts should be thick enough to cover the slot in the pipe. A pipe cap is then screwed on the end of the pipe. The upper end of the pipe is attached to a hose connected to the hot-water faucet. By separating the two nuts just a little, a fine spray of water will be forced out of the holes.

When the dishes are in place the spray of hot water can be directed over them by moving the pipe up and down through the hole in the cover.

After the dishes are washed sufficiently the hose is removed and the tank placed over a gas jet so that the heat will pass up through the funnel-shaped attachment in the bottom of the tank. The dishes, already heated by the hot water, soon dry in the heat from the gas jet. If desired, the tank can be allowed to remain over the jet until the next meal is ready to serve, using a very small flame.--Contributed by W. K. Baxter, Massillon, O.

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¶To empty a large sack filled with heavy material, turn or roll it
over a barrel.

How to Make Pop-Corn Cakes

It is very difficult to take a bite from a ball of pop corn, and it becomes more difficult as the ball increases in size. As a large number of balls were required for a church entertainment I decided to make the pop corn into cakes. This was more easily accomplished than first imagined with the use of a cake-forming device as shown in the illustration. The body of the former was made of a baking-powder can with the bottom removed. The cover of the can was nailed to the top of an old table with its flange upward. A plunger of wood was made to fit snugly inside of the can and a lever, about 3 ft. long, attached to it and fulcrumed to the wall.

After the pop corn has been prepared with the sirup, it is placed in the can and compressed. The can is then lifted out of the cover and the pop-corn cake removed. This method offers a much better way to serve pop corn than in balls. In making the cakes, the can, cover, and plunger must be kept well covered with butter.--Contributed by Howard A. Hopkins, Youngstown, New York.

Threading a Darning Needle

Having occasion to use a darning needle, the eye of which was too small to insert the yarn in the usual manner, I tried the following method with good results. A thread was doubled and passed through the eye, and the loop thus formed was used to pull the yarn through.--Contributed by Joe Henderson, Eldred, Ill.

A Fish Scaler

All kinds of devices, both simple and complex, have been made and patented for use in scaling fish, but for a novelty I found the following, which necessity compelled me to improvise on an outing trip, to be as efficient as any of them. As usual, the commissary, in making up the outfit, neglected to take the curry comb to clean the fish, and at the same time remembered to take a plentiful supply of bottled goods. Long before it became necessary to scale any fish enough bottles had been opened to provide the basis of a tool for the purpose, which I constructed by using the small tin bottle caps, a few being nailed on a block of wood, about 3 in. wide by 4 in. long, making a splendid fish scaler, as good and efficient at home as in the camp, and both inexpensive and easily made. The sketch shows the general appearance.-- Contributed by T. B. Lambert, Chicago.

A Disappearing Towel

Nothing is more unsightly to a stranger entering a home than a dirty towel in either the bathroom or the kitchenette. To keep the towel out of sight I made a hanger as shown in the illustration. A wire was bent into shape similar to a clothes hanger and a sliding clip made to hold the towel in place. A cabinet was made to accommodate the towel, and the hanger was attached to a cord run over a pulley fastened at the top, through a weight pulley, and then tied to a screw eye at the top. The weight draws the towel into the cabinet. Near the bottom edge a slot was cut and a small panel fitted in it. This small panel is fastened to the lower end of the towel. It is only necessary to pull out the small panel to get at the towel. When through with the towel, let loose of it and the weight will draw it into the opening.--Contributed by Chas. C. Bradley, W. Toledo, O.

Ammonia-Carrying Case for Insect Bites

An old clinical-thermometer case can be easily turned into a vial in which to carry ammonia for insect bites. Fit a small rubber stopper in the case, then push a darning needle into the stopper so that its end will be a little more than midway in the case. Cut or break off the needle end projecting on the outside and attach a small wad of cotton to the inside end. The case is then filled with ammonia. For bee stings this works fine, as the ammonia completely neutralizes the formic acid which the bee deposits.--Contributed by E. Everett Buchanan, Elmira, N. Y.

* * * * *

¶The contact points of a firm-joint caliper should never be struck on
hard surfaces to adjust them.

How to Make Combined Kites

BY C. M. MILLER