Chapter VI: Part I: Specifications and List of Materials

Canoe making is commonly considered more difficult than building the larger and heavier craft but many amateurs with only ordinary experience and tools have turned out satisfactory canoes, and if the simple directions given here are carefully followed out, the work will proceed rapidly and no difficulty will be encountered. Working with light materials, the canoe builder must pay particular attention to the workmanship, and, as it is many times more difficult to patch up mistakes in a canoe than it is in rowboats or other heavier craft, the work must not be hurried, but plenty of time taken to do each and every part well and in a workmanlike manner.

The craft described, which is the regulation open or Canadian model, is comparatively light and draws very little water. It is not a flimsy makeshift, but a stiff and thoroughly dependable canoe designed for long service, which, barring accidents and given reasonably good care, will continue to give satisfaction for many years. The tools needed are the common ones found in most homes, consisting of a rip and cross-cut saw, chisel, screwdriver, drawknife, awl, brace and bits, rule, hammer, vise, plane, and three or four cheap wood, or metal, screw clamps. The list of material given is for a canoe having a length of about 16 ft., 31-in. beam, 18-in. depth at the ends, 12¹⁄₂-in. depth amidships, and weighing from 60 to 70 lb., according to the material.

While oak or ash makes the best stems, other woods may be used, rock elm and fir being very satisfactory substitutes. Where cedar is specified, spruce pine, cypress, or fir may likewise be employed. The materials for molds and ribbands, which are required to give form to the craft, may be cut from any cheap stuff, and this will reduce the cost somewhat.

STEM, 1 piece oak or ash, 6 ft. long and ³⁄₄ in. square.

KEELSON, (inside keel) 1 piece oak or ash 14 ft. long, 3¹⁄₂ in. wide,
³⁄₈ in. thick.

GUNWALES, 2 pieces oak or ash, 16 ft. long, ⁷⁄₈ in. wide, ¹⁄₂ in.
thick.

SEAT RISINGS, 2 pieces oak or ash, ¹⁄₂ in. square.

FENDERWALES, 34 ft. ¹⁄₂-in. half-round molding. Oak or ash best for
hard knocks.

OUTSIDE KEEL (may be omitted if desired), 1 piece oak, 14 ft. by 1
in. by ¹⁄₂ in. thick.

DECK BEAMS, 2 pieces oak or ash, 8 in. long, 1¹⁄₈ in. wide, ³⁄₄ in.
thick.

SEAT FRAMES, 2 pieces oak or ash, 30 in. long, 3 in. wide, ³⁄₄ in.
thick.

SEAT FRAMES, 2 pieces oak or ash, 12 in. long, 2¹⁄₄ in. wide, ³⁄₄ in.
thick.

PLANKING, cedar or pine, 100 sq. ft., ¹⁄₈ in. thick. Best secured by
purchasing 25 ft. of 1-in. lumber, and having same dressed on two
sides to ¹⁄₈ in. thick, and in lengths of 12, 14 and 16 ft. This will
give the minimum amount of waste.

BACKBONE, 1 piece cedar or pine, any cheap stuff, 16 ft. long, 4 in.
wide, ⁷⁄₈ in. thick.

MOLDS, 1 piece any cheap stuff, 16 ft. long, 1 ft. wide, ⁷⁄₈ in.
thick.

RIBBANDS, 8 pieces any cheap stuff, 14 ft. long, ³⁄₄ in. wide, ¹⁄₂
in. thick.

RIBS, 360 running feet, cedar, 1³⁄₄ in. wide, ¹⁄₈ in. thick.

BREAST HOOKS OR DECKS, 1 piece cedar or oak, 32 in. long, 9 in. wide,
³⁄₄ in. thick.

1 lb. 2-in. wire nails to make form for keel.

1 lb. ⁵⁄₈-in. copper clout nails, for fastening ribs.

¹⁄₂ lb. ³⁄₄-in. copper clout nails, for fastening seat risings.

18 1¹⁄₄-in. No. 8 brass screws, for fastening decks and deck beams.

24 1-in. No. 6 brass screws, for fastening seats.

4 lb. patent marine glue to cement canvas to planking.

3 oz. No. 2 ounce copper tacks to fasten canvas with.

11³⁄₄ yd. No. 6 ounce canvas for covering hull.

1 lb. ³⁄₈-in. copper tacks to fasten planking to ribs.

The Backbone and Molds

The first step in the construction of a canoe is to get out the backbone and the molds, or forms, which give the correct dimensions and shape of the craft. The backbone may be made from any inexpensive soft wood, such as cedar, spruce, pine, or cypress; and for making it a piece of lumber, 16 ft. long, 4 in. wide, and ⁷⁄₈ in. thick, is used. By referring to Fig. 1 it will be seen that the upper edge measures exactly 15 ft. 8³⁄₄ in., and that the lower edge is ¹⁄₂ in. longer, giving a total length of 15 ft. 9¹⁄₄ in. The spaces numbered from each end of the backbone toward the center, as 1, 2, 3, and 4, indicate where the corresponding molds are to be placed. Seven molds are used and as a canoe is tapered alike at both ends the molds are numbered alike and are made exactly to the same dimensions.

The First Step in the Construction of a Canoe Is to Get Out the Backbone and the Molds, or Forms, Which Give the Correct Dimensions and Shapes of the Craft]

A good way to lay out the backbone accurately is first to mark the total length, making the lower edge 1 in. longer than represented in Fig. 1, then measure along the top edge exactly 22¹⁄₄ in., and run a pencil line across. From this line measure off ³⁄₄ in. and draw a second line across the width of the board parallel with the first. This space represents the thickness of the mold, and it is marked 1. Measure off 23¹⁄₄ in. and make two parallel lines as before and number it 2, measure another 23¹⁄₄-in. length and number it 3. Begin measuring from the opposite end of the board as in the first instance, 22¹⁄₄ in. and give it number 1, then mark off 2 and 3 the same as for the end already marked. The board is then cut off at the bevel mark at each end.

The Molds or Forms

The molds which give the form to the hull are shown and numbered in the order that they are fastened to the backbone. To get out No. 1 mold draw a rectangle on a sheet of stiff paper exactly 13⁵⁄₈ in. long and 11 in. wide as shown in Fig. 2. Run cross lines to divide it in quarters and mark out the center mortise for the backbone, which is 5 in. deep and ⁷⁄₈ in. wide. Measure 4 in. toward each side from the outside edge of the backbone mortise and mark the mortises for receiving the gunwales, which are 1⁵⁄₈ in. long and ³⁄₄ in. wide or deep. To obtain the correct bilge curve lay the rule on the bottom line and measure off exactly 1 in. to the left of the center dividing line and make dot 0. Measure 2³⁄₄ in. farther to the left, to A; turn the rule at right angles and measure 2¹⁄₈ in. inside the line and make dot 1. Measure 1¹⁄₂ in. to the left of A, turn rule at right angles and measure up the sheet exactly 4⁷⁄₈ in. and make dot 2, which will be ¹⁄₄ in. inside of the left vertical line. On the center horizontal line, which is 1¹⁵⁄₁₆ in. above dot 2, mark dot 3, ¹⁄₁₆ in. from the left vertical line. Measure off 2 in. above the horizontal center line and make dot 4 on the vertical line. The space between these two dots is the widest part of the bilge curve. Lay the rule on the bottom line of the gunwale mortise and measure off ³⁄₁₆ in. from the outside line and make dot 5. Pencil the angle from dot to dot and draw in the full curve. Cut out the half section, fold on the vertical center line, and draw the right side.

Two complete No. 2 molds are required, but it is more convenient to make each mold in two sections. Each half is made 11¹⁄₂ in. wide and 12 in. deep, as shown in Fig. 3. First draw a rectangle to these dimensions and run cross lines to divide it into quarters. Beginning at the upper right-hand corner, mark the mortises for gunwales and backbone, which, being only one-half of the complete form, will be ⁷⁄₁₆ in. wide and 3¹⁄₄ in. deep. Laying the rule on the outside line immediately below the mortise, draw a second mortise for the keel, which is ³⁄₈ in. deep and 1¹⁄₂ in. wide in the half section. Measure off 1³⁄₄ in. to the left along the bottom line from keel mortise and make dot 1. The dot 2 is made by measuring 2¹⁄₂ in. to the left of 1, turning the rule at right angles at B and measuring ⁵⁄₁₆ in. inside the line as shown in the sketch. Make the dot 3 at a point 1³⁄₄ in. to the left of 2 and ³⁄₄ in. inside of the line. The dot 4 is 1³⁄₄ in. from C and 1³⁄₄ in. inside of the line. The dot 5 is 1¹⁄₄ in. farther to the left and 3¹⁄₄ in. inside of the line. The dot 6 is ⁵⁄₈ in. from dot 5 and 4³⁄₄ in. inside of the line, which will bring it ³⁄₈ in. inside of the left vertical line. At a point 1¹⁄₂ in. above 6 make dot 7 on the marginal line, and dot 8, 1¹⁄₄ in. above it. Between the dots 7 and 8 is the widest part of the bilge curve. Dot 9 in exactly ¹⁄₄ in. inside of the vertical marginal line. These dots produce the angles, and it is only necessary to trace in the full curve and cut it out to make a pattern for the other three half sections needed.

It Is More Convenient to Make Each Mold in Two Sections, as Two Complete Molds are Required]

The molds No. 3, Fig. 4, are located near the center of the canoe and are made a trifle wider. Make a rectangle 14³⁄₈ in. long by 12 in. wide and draw cross line dividing it into quarters. Trace the half mortises for the backbone, gunwale, and keel from the No. 2 mold pattern. Lay the rule on the bottom line and measure off ¹⁄₂ in. to the left from the center vertical line and mark dot 1, which is the beginning of the bilge curve. At a point 2³⁄₄ in. to the left and ³⁄₄ in. inside of the line place dot 2, and 2 in. to the left of this and 2¹⁄₄ in. inside of the line place dot 3, then 1¹⁄₈ in. farther to the left turn the rule at right angles and measure up 4 in. inside of the line for dot 4, which is ¹³⁄₁₆ in. inside of the left marginal line. At a point 2 in. above dot 4 make dot 5 on the marginal line and 2¹⁄₈ in. above it make dot 6. The space between gives the widest part of the bilge curve, with dot 7 exactly ¹⁄₄ in. inside of the marginal line, measuring along the bottom of the gunwale mortise. Trace the angle and from it run the full curve and use this for a pattern for cutting out the other molds.

This Mold is Located near the Centre of a Canoe and is Made a Trifle Wider]

Mold No. 4 is placed amidships in the center of the canoe and only one complete mold is required, as shown in Fig. 5. To make a pattern draw a rectangle 15 in. long and 12 in. wide, and divide it into four equal parts as before. From the No. 3 mold pattern trace in the mortises for the gunwale, backbone, and keel. Lay the rule on the bottom outside line and measure 2 in. from the center line to the left at D and turn the rule at right angles and measure off ⁵⁄₁₆ in. inside of the bottom line and make dot 1. Measure, from D, 1¹⁄₂ in. to E, turn the rule up and measure off ⁵⁄₈ in. inside the line and make dot 2. The dot 3 is 1¹⁄₂ in. farther to the left and 1¹⁄₄ in. inside the line and dot 4 is 1 in. to the left of 3 and 2 in. inside of the line. The dot 5 is 1¹⁄₄ in. to the left of dot 4, and 4 in. inside of the bottom line, which will bring it ¹⁄₄ in. inside of the left vertical side line. At a point 2 in. above dot 5 make dot 6 on the outside vertical line and 1¹⁄₄ in. above it make dot 7. The space between dots 6 and 7 gives the widest part of the correct bilge curve. Exactly 3³⁄₄ in. above dot 7 and ¹⁄₄ in. inside of the vertical side line make dot 8, which marks the beginning of the bilge curve above the water line and at the gunwale mortise. The curve of the canoe floor is quite flat, but not exactly a straight line. Lay the rule on the bottom line and measure up, on the inner edge of the keel mortise, ¹⁄₈ in., then 2¹⁄₂ in. to the left make a mark, F, ¹⁄₁₆ in. inside the bottom line and a pencil line drawn between them will enable one to trace the correct curve. Having cut out the pattern make two wood forms exactly alike to have it complete, as shown. After finishing the seven complete molds, fasten them securely together by nailing a couple of battens across the halves.

This Mold is Placed Amidships, in the Center of the Canoe, and Only One is Required]

Straight-Grained Material must be Selected for the Stems, as It Is Necessary to Bend Them to Shape]

The Ribbands and Stems

The ribbands are merely strips of wood, ³⁄₄ in. wide, ¹⁄₂ in. thick, and 14 ft. long. Any cheap stuff will do because they are only used to give the correct shape of the canoe curve while building it. Six ribbands are necessary, and it is best to use eight lengths in order to make sure that the ribs are bent at the required angle and that both sides of the canoe are ribbed at the one uniform curve. For the stems ash or oak, ³⁄₄ in. square, is used, and straight-grained material must be selected since it is necessary to bend them to obtain the requisite curve.

To make the pattern for the stem mold, shown in Fig. 6, draw a rectangle, 24¹⁄₂ in. long by 12 in. wide, and divide it into four equal parts. Lay the rule on the left side at the upper corner, at G, measure down 1 in. and make dot 1. Lay the rule along the top horizontal line and measure 2¹⁄₂ in. from G and make dot 2, then draw a pencil line between them. From dot 1 measure along this line exactly ³⁄₄ in., and make dot 3. From dot 2 measure straight down 1³⁄₄ in. to H, turn at right angles and measure off ⁵⁄₈ in. to the right and make dot 4, and make a pencil line from 2 to 4 as shown. From dot 2 lay the rule parallel with the top horizontal line and measure off 9³⁄₄ in., turn at right angles and measure down on the center line 2¹⁄₄ in. and make dot 5.

Lay the rule at the upper right corner and measure down the vertical line 2³⁄₄ in., turn the rule at right angles and measure off 3⁷⁄₈ in. and make dot 6. From the upper right-hand corner measure off 1⁵⁄₈ in. and make dot 7 exactly ¹⁄₄ in. inside the top horizontal line. Again place the rule at the right-hand corner, measure down the vertical line exactly 2 in. and make dot 8. Draw the line from dot 7 to 8, and ¹⁄₂ in. from dot 8, make dot 9. This gives the correct contour of the stem where it joins the splice of the keel.

It Is Not Necessary to Make a Paper Pattern for the Keel, or Keelson, as the Piece is Merely Tapered Uniformly from the Center to Ends, and It can be Drawn Direct on the Board]

The greatest curve and width of the stem is at J on the lower line. To obtain the correct curve begin at the upper left corner and measure from dot 1 down the vertical line 4¹⁄₂ in. to K, turn the rule at right angles and measure 1¹⁄₄ in. inside the line, and make dot 10. The dot 11 is placed by measuring down from K exactly 3¹⁄₄ in. to L, when the rule is turned at right angles and a length of 4 in. measured off inside of the line. The dot 12 is located in the same manner by measuring 2³⁄₄ in. below L and running 8³⁄₄ in. inside the line, as shown.

To finish the irregular curve of the stem, measure from J at the center of the lower horizontal line 2 in. to M, turn the rule up and measure off ¹⁄₂ in. inside of the line, and make dot 13. The dot 14 is made by measuring off 4 in. from M to N and turning the rule to a point 3 in. inside the line, as shown. Then from point N measure to O 1¹⁄₄ in., and then measure up 4 in. to dot 15. From the dot 14 to 15 run a straight line. The dot 15 should be exactly 5 in. inside of the right vertical line.

Allowance for the beveled splice of the stem to the inside keel must now be made, and the beginning is to run a light pencil line from dot 15 to dot 6. From dot 15 measure up ¹⁄₂ in., turn the rule at P and make dot 16 exactly ¹⁄₄ in. to the left of the upright line. From dot 16 a line is run to dot 8 which completes the angle of the curve. The full curve is then easily traced in.

The Inside Keel, or Keelson

The inside keel, or keelson, is made exactly 13 ft. 11 in. long and 3¹⁄₂ in. wide in the center, which is, of course, amidships. It is unnecessary to go to the trouble of making a paper pattern for this because the keel is merely tapered uniformly from center to ends, and this may be drawn on the surface of the board direct. The board being 13 ft. 11 in. long and 3¹⁄₂ in. wide, it is only necessary to make cross lines exactly in the center both ways. From the center measure 1 ft. toward one end and make the width at that point 3¹⁄₂ in. Measure 1 ft. farther along, and again make the width 3¹⁄₂ in. as before. Continue in this manner, making the third station 3¹⁄₄ in.; the fourth, 2⁵⁄₈ in.; the fifth, 2 in.; the sixth, 1¹⁄₄ in., and the width at the ends ¹⁵⁄₁₆ in. This detail is well shown in Fig. 7. Bend the stem on the mold and fasten it to the keel by means of a couple of ³⁄₄-in. No. 10 screws at each end.

The Ribs and Gunwales

The Ribs are Fastened to the Outside of the Keelson and are Curved under the Ribbands]

The ribs are best made of cedar, cut from the same material as the planking. They are 1³⁄₄ in. wide and ¹⁄₈ in. thick. It is a good plan to saw out several long lengths and cut them off as required, the length being determined by measuring from gunwale to gunwale around the curve over the ribbands. The ribs are put in under the ribbands, and the thickness of the latter will allow sufficient wood for making a good fit at the sheer line. The gunwales are two straight strips, 16 ft. long, ⁷⁄₈ in. wide, and ¹⁄₂ in. thick.

The Bent Stem is Fastened to the Keel with Screws at Both Ends]

Setting Up the Canoe

Having made all the material ready, the work of setting up the canoe may begin, and as it is built upside down, place the backbone on boxes, about 1 ft. or more above the floor, and place the molds in the numbered places on the backbone, allowing the backbone to rest upon the bottom of the mortises cut in the top of the molds. Study Figs. 8 and 9 before beginning the work of setting up the hull.

True up the molds with a square and fasten them firmly by toenailing them to the backbone. Put the keelson in place, allowing it to fit down in the mortises cut in the molds to receive it. Take particular care that the stems are a good fit with the angle of the backbone at the ends, then fasten by nailing through the top edge of the mold into the stems. As shown in the stem-mold drawing, Fig. 6, the splice where the stem fits the keelson must be cut out after it is bent into place. This is easily done by marking around the outside edge of the stem and then beveling from the inside on each side. The outer edge is left about ¹⁄₈ in. wide, and the bevel runs out to the width of the keel at the lower end.

The gunwales are next put on at the sheer line, and fastened to the molds and stems, leaving sufficient of the nails exposed to make them easily withdrawn later on. The four ribbands are then put on each side, at equal distances apart, between the gunwale and keel, or at 5-in. centers, measuring from the keel up toward the gunwale. Fasten the ribbands by driving 1¹⁄₄-in. brads through them into the mold. Measure off the keel for the ribs, which should be put on 3 in. apart, measuring from the centers. The ribs are fastened to the outside of the keelson and are curved under the ribbands. Fasten each rib to the keel by means of two ⁵⁄₈-in. copper clout nails, then spring them into place and fasten to the gunwales. Put in all the ribs in the same way, spacing them so that a rib will be placed over each mold. When all the ribs are put in, remove the ribbands, and begin planking the hull.

Planking the Canoe

As a canoe is planked with ¹⁄₈-in. cedar it is easily bent to the curve of the ribs while cold, thus doing away with the trouble of steaming. Unlike heavier-planked craft the planking is not rabbeted at the stem but is nailed to the beveled surface. For strength and to give a perfectly smooth skin on which to lay the canvas, it is advisable to run the planking the full length from stem to stem. Begin by putting on the garboard strake, which is the bottom plank at the keel. Punch holes in the plank with an awl, not directly in line, but staggered from side to side along the ribs. This will prevent the possibility of splitting. Drive in the copper clout nails while the plank is kept in place with a clamp to facilitate the work. Hold a clinch iron, or any handy piece of iron, inside and clinch the nails so that the ends are well imbedded in the rib on the inside. It is a simple matter to fit each plank in place, because they are merely a close fit at the edge, butted together without beveling. The number of planks required will depend upon the width, and while wider strips may be used, planking cut to the width of 3 in. is generally employed. In any case the top plank or sheer strake should be level with the gunwale from one stem to the other. When the hull is completely planked, cut off the ends of the planking to the curve of the stems and gunwales. The backbone and molds may now be taken out by sawing the backbone in two. Tack a couple of strips across the gunwales to keep the hull from sagging out of shape, then drive the nails over the sections the molds occupied, since these forms prevented doing this work before.

Seat Risings and Seats

The seat risings are simply straight sticks, ¹⁄₂ in. square, and are fastened on the inside for the seats to rest upon. They are about 4 in. below the gunwale. Oak or ash is the best material, and the length is 14 ft. To fasten in place, first bore a small hole and then nail through the planking and ribs, and clinch on the inside of the rising.

The Seat Frame may be Caned, or a Canvas Seat Tacked On, as Preferred]

The seat frame is fashioned as shown in Fig. 10, and may be caned, or a canvas seat tacked on, as preferred. Many canoeists prefer to kneel, in which case a seat bar, about 4 or 5 in. wide, is run athwartships for the paddler’s back and thighs to rest against while paddling.

The Deck Beams and Decks

The deck beams are merely straight pieces, about 8 in. long, 1¹⁄₈ in. wide, and ³⁄₈ in. thick. These are notched at the ends as shown in Fig. 11, so that they will come up and wedge against the sides of the gunwales about ¹⁄₂ in. Put them in by boring a hole through the gunwale and fasten with a 1¹⁄₄-in. No. 10 screw at each end. Two are required, one at each end.

The Shape of the Deck or Breast Hooks and the Beams That Support Them]

The deck, or breast, hooks are made 16 in. long by 8 in. wide and of the shape shown in Fig. 12. To fasten them in place bore three holes through the deck into the deck beam and secure them with three 1¹⁄₄-in. No. 10 screws. Bore three holes along the gunwale on each side and turn three 1¹⁄₄-in. No. 10 screws into the deck.

A Center Thwart

To strengthen and stiffen the hull a center thwart, or cross bar, should be run across the canoe amidships. A piece of oak or ash, ³⁄₈ in. thick and tapering from 2 in. in the center to 1 in. at the ends, should be screwed to the lower side of the gunwale. Although not exactly essential, it is a good plan to run another thwart across the canoe just back of the forward seat, and a rear thwart some 3 ft. forward of the rear seat, or paddling bar. This will make the craft very stiff when a heavy load is carried, and likewise prevent the lightly constructed hull from sagging, or “hogging,” when stored for the winter.

The Manner of Shaping the Ends of the Canvas to Fit over the Canoe Ends]

Applying the Canvas

The canvas is put on with marine glue, the black kind being the best for this particular purpose. Before gluing the canvas, lay it smoothly on the hull and trim so that it will fold nicely at the stems, as shown in Fig. 13. Melt the glue in a can over a moderately hot fire and spread it on one side of the canvas with a stiff brush. Of course, the glue will be too thick to spread evenly, but be sure to apply it as evenly as possible, and touch every bit of the canvas with a fairly heavy coating of glue. Lay the glued canvas in place, and iron with a moderately hot flatiron. This melts the glue, and the canvas will adhere smoothly to the planking. Finish by tacking the edge of the canvas along the edge of the gunwales, and fold the canvas as smoothly as possible at the stem, and tack in place, running the line of tacks exactly down the center line of the stem.

Fenders or Covering Strips

Fenders of ¹⁄₂-in. round molding may be tacked on to cover the edge of the canvas, or a strip, 1 in. wide, may be sawed from the same material as the planking and tacked to cover the edge by using 1¹⁄₄-in. brads every 2 or 3 in. along the edge.

Stem Bands and Outside Keel

The stem bands may be made from wood if desired and bent to shape, but the brass oval stem or bang iron, ³⁄₈ in. wide, makes a stronger and better finish. The wood stem band should be about ³⁄₈ in. square, and rounded on the outside. Put this on with 1¹⁄₄-in. brads and fasten the brass band with ³⁄₄-in. screws.

The outside keel may or may not be used, according to preference. It strengthens the canoe to a certain extent and keeps the bottom from many a scratch while pulling out. The usual outside keel is about 1 in. wide and ¹⁄₂ in. thick, of oak or ash, and tapered at the stems to the width of the stem bands, which are screwed on over it. The most serviceable keel is about 2¹⁄₂ in. wide in the center, and tapers to fit the bands at either end. When made of ³⁄₄-in. oak, or ash, it makes a splendid protection for the bottom of the hull, especially when the craft is used in rocky waters. Unlike the narrow keel, the flat keel makes the canoe easier to turn with the paddle, but any form of keel will add several pounds to the weight of the craft and is for this reason often omitted.

Painting the Canoe

The canvas should be given a coat of shellac before the paint is applied. This makes it waterproof. Then four coats of paint are applied to fill the fibers of the canvas. To make a smooth finishing coat, rub down the second and third coats with fine sandpaper. The entire woodwork of the canoe should be finished with three coats of good-quality outside spar varnish.

A slatted grating, made of soft-pine lattice stuff, about 1¹⁄₈ in. wide and 1¹⁄₄ in. thick, will afford protection to the bottom of the canoe. For summer use this is desirable, but may be omitted on long trips and when soft footwear is worn. The grating should not be fastened to the ribs, but the parallel strips screwed, or nailed, to cross strips, curved to fit the contour of the canoe’s bottom. The grating should extend from well under the stern seat up to the stem splice in the bow, and should be nicely tapered to make a neat appearance. By fastening two or three little blocks of wood so that they will extend up between the slats, one may screw small brass buttons into these blocks to keep the slatted floor in place, thus making it easily removable when washing out the canoe.

A Ring-and-Egg Trick

This trick consists in borrowing a ring and wrapping it in a handkerchief from which it is made to disappear, to be found in an egg, taken from a number in a plate.

Obtain a wedding ring and sew it into one corner of a handkerchief. After borrowing a ring, pretend to wrap it in the center of the handkerchief, but instead wrap up the one concealed in the corner, retaining the borrowed one in the hand. Before beginning the performance, place in the bottom of an egg cup a small quantity of soft wax. When getting the cup, slip the borrowed ring into the wax in an upright position. An egg is then chosen by anyone in the audience. This is placed in the egg cup, the ring in the bottom being pressed into the shell. With a button hook break the top of the shell and fish out the ring. The handkerchief is then taken out to show that the ring has vanished.

Lock for Gasoline Tank on a Launch

Having trouble by thefts of gasoline from the tank in my launch, I made the following device to prevent them, which proved very effective. A strap hinge, about 12 in. long, was procured, and on one wing, near the outer end, I fastened a staple made of a large nail, and near the center a large hole was drilled to fit over the pipe, or opening, to the tank. The other wing of the hinge was bent to the shape shown, and an oak block was fastened in the bend with wood screws. A hole was bored in the block to fit over the end of the pipe. A slot was cut in the same wing at the end to receive the staple. In turning the wing over to cover the pipe end, the staple was brought into position for a padlock. After locking the device, most of the screws are covered so that it is almost impossible to remove them without taking off the lock.--Contributed by Stephen H. Freeman, Klamath Falls, Oregon.

A Quick-Acting Bench Vise

For those who desire a quick-acting vise and cannot afford the price of a manufactured one, I designed the vise shown in the illustration. A detail is given of each part, with dimensions, so that it is not difficult to make it from hard wood. The roll A binds the vise so that it remains rigid, while the cam in front gives the necessary play, to release or tighten as preferred. The clamp jaw B is pivoted so that it swings loose, thus making it fit any surface that may not be parallel with its opposite side. In releasing the stock, the cam is first turned, and then the front part of the vise is pulled up to relieve the roll A. The front jaw can be then moved back and forth to take stock of any size desired. As soon as the stock is placed, the roll A falls into place and clamps the jaw arm C.--Contributed by J. C. Hansen, Maywood, Ill.

* * * * *

¶A practical vacuum will raise water 30 feet.

By Stillman Taylor