Chapter XXIX: Part II: A Netted Hammock (4)

The difficulty of washing bromide enlargements of the larger sizes has always made the amateur hesitate to undertake much of this kind of work. The developing and fixing can be done with comparative ease, because of the facility with which the print can be kept moving in a tray that is smaller in size than the print itself, but washing is such a long process that one’s patience is exhausted before the hypo is completely eliminated. Continuous handling of a print for 30 minutes is tedious work. This objection can be overcome in the simplest and most efficacious manner, as follows:

Procure some large corks of the best quality and in each cut a groove completely around it, near one end, to serve as a retainer for a rubber band; then cut the cork lengthwise through the center, and cut a wedge-shaped piece from the center toward the end opposite the one where the groove was cut for the rubber band. After placing a band in the groove of the proper size the combination will work similarly to an old-fashioned spring clothespin.

If two of these are snapped on the edge of a bromide print, this can be dropped into a bathtub or laundry tub for washing. The corks will cause the print to float vertically in the running water. By this means a number of prints can be washed at a time without any danger of their sticking together or becoming wrinkled or cracked in the bath.--Contributed by T. B. Lambert, Chicago.

Bench Support for a Miter Box

To make the most effective use of a miter box, it must be fastened solidly to a base, but if fastened to the workbench top it is in the way when not in use, and it is a nuisance to fasten and unfasten the box every time it is used. To avoid the changing, I mounted the miter box on two pieces of 1 by 3-in. stock, about 2 ft. long. These pieces were placed on the bench top, at right angles to the front edge and with their centers as far apart as the two pairs of legs on the box. The box was placed on the front end of the pieces, with the back parallel to the front of the bench, at right angles to the pieces, and was fastened to them with screws. The other end of each piece was fastened to the bench top with a hinge.

This fastened the miter box firmly to the bench top, but in such a way that I could tip it up and back against the wall, or other support, where it was out of the way but ready for use immediately. To stiffen the frame, I placed a cross brace between the two pieces, making it in the form of the letter H.--Contributed by L. C. Burke, Madison, Wisconsin.

A Blowpipe for Gas

Every experimenter who has a gas connection within convenient distance of the workbench should provide a 4 or 5-ft. length of ¹⁄₄-in. rubber tubing, terminating in a brass tube through which air may be blown in order that a clear blue flame may be available for either hard or soft soldering. The brass tube should be 4 or 5 in. long and fitted at one end with a removable nozzle having a ¹⁄₁₆-in. hole in it. A hole is then drilled in the side and a piece of smaller brass tubing, bent as shown in the sketch, is soldered in place for the air supply. A piece of soft-rubber tubing about 1 ft. long is then provided and one end slipped over the projecting end of the air pipe and the other fitted to a hard-rubber, or amber, mouthpiece. By regulating the gas supply and blowing to the proper degree, a pencil of blue flame may be produced, anywhere from 1 to 4 in. long. For heating large surfaces, the nozzle tip should be removed.

This method of soldering not only makes a better connection than the usual copper, but is instantly available and does not disarrange the several pieces where, as is often the case, it is not practicable to pin or hold them in place.

Scraper for Dishes

Housekeepers will find the scraper shown to be silent and more rapid than a knife for cleaning dishes. It consists of a handle cut from a piece of straight-grained wood, with a kerf sawed in the wide end to a depth of ³⁄₄ in., into which a piece of sheet rubber is inserted. The rubber may be cut from an old bicycle-tire casing and is fastened with two or three brads driven through the handle. The ends of the brads are bent over or riveted. The edge of the rubber should be made straight.--Contributed by H. S. Craig, Rushford, Minn.

Protecting Lights in a Gymnasium

A public-school auditorium was used for playing basket ball, and the lights were protected as shown. Wire waste-baskets were fastened to pieces of board, which in turn were nailed to the ceiling around each lamp. As it was desired to provide a way to ventilate the room, an opening was cut in each board around the lamp base, providing fan-shaped cut-outs covered with galvanized metal of the same design, to make a way to open and shut the ventilator. The air passed up into an attic.

The goals, which were old blackboards, were fastened between the posts that supported the ceiling. Two iron rods, one above the other, were clamped with bolts to the posts, and the boards were bolted to the rods.--Contributed by Frank C. Svacha, McKees Rocks, Pa.

Shortening a Pasteboard Box

If a pasteboard box happens to be too long for a special purpose it can be shortened as shown. The sides are cut down to the bottom and the end removed. The bottom is then bent up on a line between the places where the sides were cut down, to form a new end for the box. The joining parts are then held with a thread or wire fasteners.

Repairing Shade-Roller Springs

FIG. 2

Fix the Loosened Spring into Place and the Roller Is in Working Order]

Springs of window-shade rollers, which usually break at the tin cap by which they are fastened inside the rod, can be quickly repaired in the following manner:

Remove the ferrule and dogs from the end of the roller and pull out the stick to which the spring is attached. Measure the length of the stick A, Fig. 1, on the roller, and at C cut a small square hole through to the hollow center. Remove the metal cap thus exposed. Fix the cap on the end of the stick at B and fasten the spring around one point of the metal cap, Fig. 2. Insert the stick into the roller and tap it gently, driving the cap points in; then replace the ferrule and dogs, and the roller is in condition for use.

Drying Photo Films Rapidly

Waiting for photographic films to dry is often tedious, particularly when the photographer is in haste to see the results of his efforts at picture taking. The method of drying the films shown in the sketch will aid materially in the process. The films are held by small spring clips attached to the wire frame surrounding the fan, and when the current is turned on, the films are blown away from the fan and held suspended in a diagonal position.--Contributed by W. J. Clausius, Chicago, Ill.

Applying and Drying Bronze Powders

Surfaces may be coated readily with bronze powder by applying a thin coat of shellac and quickly dusting the powder over it. Speed is important in dusting on the powder, as if the shellac hardens it will not hold the bronze. Surfaces which have been bronzed in this way may be polished if additional coats of shellac or varnish are applied over them.

Forceps for Weeding Garden

Difficulty in removing small weeds around plants in the garden may be overcome by the use of a forceps made of a piece of wire, as shown in the illustration. The wire is formed into two loops by which the weeds are grasped, and the portion held in the hand is bent to form a circular spring. Its tension may be regulated so that the hand will not be tired in using the device.--Contributed by Irving McEwen, New Westminster, B. C., Canada.

Shielding Pictures from Damp Walls

Injury to pictures from dampness of walls may be prevented by fixing small disks of cork to the lower edge of the frame so as to form a contact with the wall only at the cork. This permits a current of air to pass between the wall and frame.

New Method of Developing Roll Films

BY T. B. LAMBERT

Many devices have been made for developing and fixing roll films. There is the simple wholesale method of the professional who hangs a weight on one end of the film and lets it down in a deep tank of developing fluid where it hangs submerged from an upper support until the development is complete. Then the support, the film, and attached weight are removed, dipped into a similar tank of running water, then to another tank of fixing solution, and subsequently washed and dried.

This is the only practical plan where there are many such films to be handled simultaneously, but the amateur who has only one or two rolls a week cannot afford the tanks, the space, nor the expense incident to such a method. The film is usually drawn back and forth through a developing solution placed in a tray, and after the development has proceeded far enough, the same process used in washing, then the hypo solution, and finally through the last washing for about 20 minutes, all making a tedious process.

Some amateurs and a few professionals who but occasionally develop roll film use a mechanical device that rolls the film into a light-proof package which is inserted in a metal tank for development and subsequent fixation. This is a standard process, the apparatus being on sale at all supply houses, but it has its drawbacks.

The following method is not only simple but perfect in its operation and requires no special apparatus, only a tumbler or lemonade glass, and an ordinary lead pencil for its operation. A glass rod is preferable to the lead pencil, and it is also convenient to have a deep tin cup, or similar device, to cover up the lemonade glass and make it light-proof, should it be desirable to turn on the white light in the dark room.

Pour enough developing solution into the glass tumbler to cover completely the roll of film when it is standing on end. In the dark room open the film roll, remove the backing paper and the paper ends on the film, run it through clear water until it is thoroughly and uniformly wetted from end to end, and drop it endwise into the tumbler of developer. Immediately insert the pencil or glass rod into the center of the roll, and with a rather quick circular motion, move the rod around so that it will quickly pass between the several convolutions of the film and thus distribute the developer all over its surface. Repeat this operation at once, then again in a few seconds, then in 15 or 20 seconds, then in 30 seconds, then in 1 minute, and so on, with greater intervals of time. If a 20-minute developer is used, it will only be necessary, at the latter part of the development, to separate the layers every 2 or 3 minutes.

When the development is complete, pour off the solution and rinse in the same glass by letting water run through it while passing the pencil or glass rod between the layers several times. The water may then be drained off, and the glass filled with the fixing solution. While the film is fixing, the glass rod should be passed between the layers several times to renew the solution in contact with the film.

It will be seen that at no time after the first washing is it necessary to handle the film, so that damage to the film and staining the fingers are entirely eliminated. Further than that, no apparatus is tied up in the operation, and if a light-proof cup is at hand, the developing tumbler may be covered between the operations of separating the layers of film, and the white light of the dark room can be turned on for further operations.

Swinging Bags on the Arms of a Scarecrow

The ordinary ragman used as a scarecrow can be made more effective by adding to it something to make it move, or some part that flutters in the wind. This can be accomplished in one way by blowing up paper bags to expand them to their full extent, tying the openings as if they were filled with some commodity for the household, and fastening them to the arms of the dummy as shown. These will swing and flutter about in a way that will materially aid in scaring away the birds that damage the crops.

An Artistic Card Tray

Serving and card trays can be made very beautiful and artistic with the use of butterflies, natural grasses, and the fluffy part taken from the milkweed pod, formed to make a natural scene beneath the glass bottom of the tray. If an old tray is to be used, remove the old panel, or painting, beneath the glass bottom, and clean the glass thoroughly. Lay it upside down on a flat table top and carefully place on it a cluster of grass, or weeds, or some botanical specimens, that are well dried. Arrange the dried butterflies in a natural way around the grasses with their backs, or tops of the wings, facing out, or on the glass.

The silky down of the milkweed seed, with the seed removed, is used to cover the specimens and grass, which forms the most delicate background possible. It is laid on quite thick at the bottom of the scene, gradually thinning it toward the top. Be careful to see that the fibers of the down are placed so that they will radiate from the bottom of the grasses to the outer edges. A piece of white, pearl, or gray cardboard is then placed on this background, and another glass or board back is sealed tightly over the whole with glue or wax.--Contributed by Joe V. Romig, Allentown, Pa.

Deodorizing Lard Buckets

Lard buckets are the most easily obtained and the most satisfactory of utensils in which to pack food, or cook for a small picnic or camping party, but it is very difficult to remove the odor of the lard. This may be easily accomplished by boiling the grounds from the coffeepot in the bucket with about one pint of water.

A Parlor Cue Alley

BY C. QUINCY IVES

Parlor cue alley is really a game of bowling except that it is played on a small raised board, and, instead of throwing the balls by hand, an ordinary billiard cue is used, the balls being about 1¹⁄₄ in. in diameter. The automatic feature of this new game saves the time usually required to set up the pins, and assures that they will be set absolutely true each time.

To build this alley, first procure three planed boards, hard wood preferred, though they are more difficult to work; two, 10 ft. long, 9 in. wide, and ¹⁄₂ in. thick, and the other, 10 ft. long, 15 in. wide, and ¹⁄₂ in. thick. Place the first two boards side by side and fasten them with cleats, the first cleat being placed 18 in. from the end to be used for the pins. The cleats should be of ³⁄₈ or ⁷⁄₈-in. material and cut as long as the upper board is wide, or 15 in. These are placed on top of the lower boards, or between the two. By placing the first one 18 in. from the end, clearance is obtained for the trap A. The other board is placed on the cleats and fastened, after it has been centrally located, with screws from the under side. The screws must not come through or the surface of the upper board be marred in any way so that the balls cannot roll freely. The difference in width of the lower board and the upper one provides 1¹⁄₂-in. clearance on each side as grooves for the return of the balls.

Inclose the alley with boards, 3 in. wide and ¹⁄₂ in. thick, to the point B, and from there around the pin end with boards, 6 in. wide. The upper board should be cut to such a length that a space of 2 in. at the end C will be provided. Into this space is fitted a block of wood, about ⁷⁄₈ in. thick, having its upper surface slightly pitched toward the sides of the alley to start the balls back to the front of the board. From the ends of this block two strips, 1¹⁄₂ in. wide, are fitted into the side grooves, from D to E, on an incline, to return the ball after each shot.

The location of each pin is marked on the end of the upper board, and small holes are drilled just large enough to admit pieces of stout cord, like a fishline, to pass through freely. The pins are made of hard wood, carefully balanced, so that one end will not be heavier than the other. The lower end of each pin is drilled to make a recess, F, in which the cord is fastened with a screw or nail. Holes are bored through the bottom board, ³⁄₈ in. in diameter, to correspond to the 10 small holes made through the upper one. Lead weights of about 2 oz. are fitted in the holes and attached to the strings from the pins. The ends of the weights should extend about ¹⁄₂ in. from the under side of the alley.

Attach a board, 18 in. square, with hinges to the end of the alley so that it will hang under the weights. A stout cord is run along the under side of the alley to the front end through screw eyes, and attached to the swinging board. By letting the board swing down the weights are released and they draw the pins into a standing position, accurately set for the next break. When set, the line is drawn, and the swinging board pushes the weights up and releases the pins.

The balls used are made of hard wood, and, if it is not desirable to make them, they can be purchased from a toy store. They are 1¹⁄₄ in. in diameter. Each player has three shots. The ball is placed on the spot G and shot with a billiard cue, the object being to knock down as many pins as possible; the score is kept as in bowling.

Horses can be made of metal and wood, as shown, for holding the alley at the proper height. The alley can be used on a large table, but horses are more convenient.

The Glass-and-Hat Trick

The effect of this trick is as follows: The performer first exhibits a small table, about 2 ft. square, the top of which is covered with black velvet. He requests the loan of a Derby hat and a handkerchief, then takes an ordinary glass, filled with water, and places it on the table top, covers it with the handkerchief, and sets the hat on top of the glass. He then withdraws a short distance, and at a command, the glass appears to pass slowly through both handkerchief and hat until the hat rests on the table top. The hat is then taken up and is handed to the owner, who finds the glass of water in the hat.

While this is seemingly impossible, the effect can be easily accomplished and the necessary apparatus can be made up cheaply if a table of suitable size can be had, although a kitchen table may be used if so desired, but a table about 2 ft. square is preferred, because it can be easily carried. The table is prepared as follows: Procure a block of wood, about 2 in. square and 1¹⁄₂ in. thick, and glue it to the under side of the table in the center. Bore a ¹⁄₄-in. hole through both the table top and the block of wood. The top of the table must be covered with some black cloth, such as velvet. Using the hole bored as a center, cut out a piece of the table top to correspond with the diameter of the glass to be used, and about ¹⁄₈ in. deep, fit into this depression a piece of round sheet brass. Procure a ¹⁄₄-in. rod, about 6 in. long, and fasten the brass disk to the end of it so that the disk will fit into the round depression when the rod is run through the hole in the table top and block. The other, or lower, end of the rod is filed flat, and a small hole is drilled through it, the edges being smoothed to receive a thread. The top of the brass disk is covered with the same material as is used for covering the table top. This will make it appear to be one piece covering the table top. Fasten a strong black thread to one corner of the table top on the under side, and run it through the hole drilled through the end of the rod, then over a small window-curtain roller fastened into the opposite corner of the table top, where the thread is run down a table leg and through another pulley out under a rug or the floor to an assistant where the thread will not be seen. The metal disk can then be controlled without any apparent power. If the rod extends under the table too far, tape some velvet or fancy cloth around the table edge to cover it.

To begin the trick, the performer exhibits the glass of water, then sets it on the table just back of the disk, and in placing the borrowed handkerchief it is put on the disk rather than the glass. As the handkerchief is held in front of the glass the assistant pulls the disk up; thus the handkerchief is placed on the disk and the glass of water is left uncovered just behind it. The performer then starts to put the borrowed hat on the glass, crown up, and when, seeing his mistake, he apologizes, turns the hat over, and in doing so picks up the glass of water and places it in the hat. The hat is then set on the disk with the crown down. In turning the hat the glass is taken up with the first two fingers of the right hand. When the hat is raised, the glass is also raised with it, and while doing this the hat is slanted so as to hide the glass. In turning the hat over, the glass is brought into it. This is quite hard to explain, but a little practice will enable the performer to make no mistake. When the hat is placed on the disk the assistant slowly lets the disk down. It is very necessary to let the hat down slowly, as a sudden jerk is apt to tumble the hat over and spoil it as well as the trick. When the hat comes to rest on the table top, it is removed and handed to the owner with the glass of water in it.

Wire-Mesh Support for Flower Centerpiece

Pansies, violets, or other short-stemmed flowers cannot easily be shown to advantage in a table centerpiece unless properly supported. By placing a frame of wire mesh in the dish, as shown in the sketch, the stems of the flowers may be set in the openings, giving a neat and effective display.--Victor Carpenter, South Bend, Ind.

False Bottom for Emptying Wastebasket

In order to avoid handling paper and other material which sometimes sticks in a wastebasket, I arranged a false bottom in the receptacle, as shown in the sketch. A hole was cut in the bottom of the basket and a square board, nearly as large as the bottom, was fitted over it, and a leather handle provided. The basket may be emptied quickly by forcing out the false bottom, without the hands touching the contents.--Harold Laughlin, Reading, Michigan.

Making Use of Refrigerator in Winter

By fitting a 3-in. pipe into the lower part of a refrigerator so that a draft of cool air from outdoors is available in cold weather, it may be used without ice for a considerable part of the year. The top is left open slightly, and a piece of cheesecloth is tied over the outside end of the pipe, to prevent dust from entering. A tin shutter is placed on the inside of the refrigerator to close the pipe in extremely cold weather. This arrangement has proved quite satisfactory for the winter storage of food.--R. R. Dowsley, Prescott, Canada.

Inkwell Base Made from Fuse Socket

Workers in the munitions industry frequently devise small useful or ornamental objects in imitation of, or from, discarded parts on which they work. The inkwell shown in the sketch was made from a rejected fuse socket of a shrapnel shell. It was fitted with a glass container and fastened into a wooden base.

Valve-Bottom Pail for Dipping Water

An ordinary pail may be converted into a convenient device for dipping water by fitting a valve into the bottom, as shown in the sketch. Fasten a piece of soft leather to the bottom of a block, 3 in. square, and fix this to the bottom of the bucket by means of a small hinge. By pushing the bucket bottom down into the water, the latter rises up through the valve until the bucket is full. By lifting it the valve is closed. This device fitted to a tall milk pail is especially convenient.--R. S. Matzen, Fort Collins, Colo.

A Shoe-Polishing Strop

It is awkward to shine one’s shoes with a long strip of cloth as is done by a shoe shiner to produce a high polish. An effective substitute method is to suspend from the wall a strip of cloth, about 5 in. wide, doubled to a length of 30 in., and rub the shoes on it before putting them on.

A Magic Cabinet

The performer calls the attention of his audience to a cabinet mounted on short legs and having doors in the front, back, and top. The back door is opened, then the top and front, and an arm is thrust through to show that the cabinet is empty and without double doors or double walls. The performer also puts his wand beneath the box to show that there is no deception there. The doors are then closed, except the top, and reaching down, he takes out any number of articles, from handkerchiefs to rabbits, and then the front door is opened to show the box is empty, but upon closing the front door again, he is still able to produce articles until the supply is exhausted. Wonderful though this trick may appear, it is very simple, and if a person is handy with tools, it can be made from lumber taken from a packing box.

To make the cabinet, nail together, in the shape of a rectangle, two pieces, 16 in. long, 14 in. wide, and ¹⁄₂ in. thick, and two pieces 14 in. square and ¹⁄₂ in. thick. To one of the latter pieces fasten four legs, one at each corner. In the opposite piece, or the top, make an opening in the center, 8 in. square. This opening is covered with a door 8¹⁄₂ in. square, supplied with a knob to open it easily. A piece, 16 in. long and 14 in. wide, with an attached knob, is hinged to the front, for a door; also another for the back hinged in the same manner and with a knob. In the back there is a cutout made, 9 in. long and 7 in. wide, in the center. In this opening a swinging box is hung to hold the articles taken from the cabinet. The swinging box is made of two pieces, 9 in. long and 7 in. wide, and two pieces about ¹⁄₂ in. larger each way, nailed together on ends, cut triangular. This box is hinged in the opening so that it will swing in or out as desired and show a panel on either side of the door. The front door should have a panel nailed on each side of equal size, to make both doors appear alike.

After loading all the things desired to be shown in the triangular box, start the trick by pushing this box into the cabinet and showing the outside; then open the back, and in doing so, push the triangular box out as the door swings back and away from the audience. This shows that there is nothing to be seen but the panel. Open the front door and top, and the cabinet will appear empty. Close both front and back doors, and in making this change, push the triangular box in, and begin to take the things out through the top door.

By careful construction the cabinet can be made so that the doors will open freely and the triangular box swing easily so that it will not be seen in operating it. With a clever performer this trick is without an equal, as many variations can be made in the performance.

Countersinking a Hole Smoothly

When a hole in a piece of steel, iron, or brass is being countersunk, the drill usually chatters, making the countersink rough. Where a smooth hole is required, it is best to make the countersink first and drill the hole afterward. By doing so the hole will be perfectly smooth.--Contributed by Chas. G. England, Washington, Pa.

Receptacle for Shellac Varnish

A simple, inexpensive, and practical pot and cover for holding shellac varnish in the pattern shop, or at home, is shown in the sketch. It consists of a base made of wood having in the center a counterbore into which a glass tumbler, or other container, is fitted. For the cover an ordinary flowerpot is used, fitting down over a ring on the base. An accumulation of shellac around the top cannot come in contact with the cover. The brush extends through the hole in the bottom of the flowerpot and is held suspended by means of a leather washer resting on it.--Contributed by J. D. Roberts, Kenosha, Wisconsin.

Homemade Vaporizer

A simple vaporizer which can be used by designers to project their colors in a fluid spray, or by housekeepers to disinfect or perfume their apartments, can be made in the following manner: Two goose quills are forced through holes in a cork at right angles to each other, as shown. Place the vertical quill in a bottle containing the fluid to be sprayed and by blowing through the horizontal quill a very effective spray will be produced.--Contributed by Hazel Kolar, Maywood, Ill.

* * * * *

¶Old wringer clamps, used for holding the wringer to the tub, are
very handy around a workbench.

Tooth Powder Used on Tracing Cloth

Tooth powder is an excellent substitute for the powders which are sold for the purpose of preparing the glossy surface of tracing linen to receive ink. The gritty element removes the excess gloss which prevents the ink from taking hold. A second dusting with talcum powder makes a perfect surface for inking in.

A Small Gas Furnace

A small gas furnace for melting small quantities of gold, silver, or other metals, can be easily made as follows: Procure a cylinder of stovepipe iron of the desired size, say 4¹⁄₂ or 5 in. in diameter, and 6 in. long. Turn in the edge of one end so that it will hold loosely a disk of iron of the same thickness as the cylinder, to form the bottom. Punch ¹⁄₈-in. holes, about 1 in. apart, all over the cylinder and the bottom. This is to allow for the escape of moisture and air. Attach three legs to the sides with rivets, evenly spaced so as to raise the bottom 4 in. In the side of the cylinder cut a hole, 1¹⁄₄ in. in diameter, its center being 1¹⁄₂ in. from the bottom. Select a glass bottle whose diameter is 1 or 1¹⁄₂ in. less than that of the cylinder.

Make a putty of fire clay, and add about five per cent of plaster of Paris, and also add about a teaspoonful of vinegar, to prevent a too rapid setting. Place a mass of the putty in the bottom of the cylinder and press in the bottle after its surfaces have been well greased. The bottle should be well centered in the cylinder. Press the bottle well down, so that its bottom is on a level with the lower edge of the hole in the side. Fill in the putty to form the sides, tamping it well all around the bottle, and build it up a little above the metal of the sides, carefully smoothing off the edge. With the fingers, or a spatula of some kind, cut out the putty in the hole to form an opening, ³⁄₄ in. in diameter. Allow the putty to set for more than an hour, and then with a circular, or twisting, motion remove the bottle. To prevent a vacuum in the bottom that will prevent removing the bottle easily, puncture the putty that lies on the disk with a hatpin, to allow the air to pass.

A few places will be found where the putty has not filled in properly, and these should be patched up while the filling is yet soft. The clay will probably shrink after standing for a time, and should be pressed out against the sides while in a plastic state. When dry, the furnace is ready for use.

In furnaces of this kind the jet of a large gas blowtorch is to be used. If a standard is rigged up to hold the blowtorch, it will be much easier for the operator. The jet from the pipe is thrown in the hole at the side and a crucible is placed in the furnace. It is well to make a cover similar to the body of the furnace with a hole in the center a little larger than the hole in the side.

A more efficient furnace can be made with two holes in the side, opposite each other, for using a double jet from blowtorches.--Contributed by James H. Beebee, Rochester, N. Y.

The Magic Clock Hand

The hand, or pointer, is the only working part needed to perform the trick. A clockface can be drawn on any piece of white paper, and a pin stuck in its center on which the hand revolves. The hand A is cut from a piece of sheet brass, and may be in any form or design desired, but it must balance perfectly on the axle, which passes through a ¹⁄₄-in. hole in the center, or else the magic part will fail. The illustration shows a good design with dimensions that will cause it to balance well; however, this can be adjusted by removing some metal from the end that is heavier with a file or tinner’s snips, or a bit of solder may be stuck to the lighter end.

A disk, B, is cut from a piece of sheet brass, 1¹⁄₈ in. in diameter, twelve ³⁄₃₂-in. holes are drilled at equal distance apart near the edge, and a ¹⁄₄-in. hole is drilled in its center. This disk is soldered to the hand where both ¹⁄₄-in. holes will coincide. It is necessary to procure two washers, C and D, that are embossed, or raised, in the center, and about 1¹⁄₄ in. in diameter. These can be purchased from a dealer in curtain rods, the rod parts wanted being the washers used on the ends. A careful mechanic can raise the center portion of a brass disk by beating it over a hole with a ball-peen hammer.

One of the washers, C, has a spring, E, soldered at one end, and the other carries a small projection that will engage the holes in the disk, B. The projection can be made by driving the metal out with a center punch, set on the opposite side.

The washer D is provided with a lead weight, F, and a ¹⁄₄-in. stud, G, is soldered in the center. The stud has a ¹⁄₁₆-in. hole drilled through its center for the pin axle. The weight is made by filling the washer with melted lead, which when cold is removed and sawn in two. One piece is then stuck in the washer with shellac. The stud is ⁷⁄₈ in. long with the upper part, about ¹⁄₄ in. in length, filed, or turned down, smaller, and threaded. Just below the thread, or on the shoulder, the body is filed square to fit a square hole filed in the face washer C carrying the spring. This square hole and stud end are necessary in order that both washers may turn together.

The dial can be made of a piece of thick cardboard, or thin wood, with the numbers from 1 to 12 painted on, like a clockface. A pin, ¹⁄₁₆ in. in diameter, or an ordinary large pin, is run through the center so that it will project on the face side on which the hand is to revolve.

The washer D with the weight is placed on the rear side of the hand with the fixed stud run through the hole in the center of the hand; then the washer C is placed on the square part of the stud, and the nut J, which should have a round, knurled edge, is turned on the threads. This will cause the projection on the spring E to engage one of the small holes on the disk B. In turning the two washers, C and D, with the thumb and first finger of the right hand, the projection snapping into the holes of the disk B can be felt. The hand is placed on the pin of the clockface, and the washers are turned so that the weight will make it point to 12. Scratch a mark on the hand at H, also mark a line on the front washer at this point. These lines are necessary, as they enable the performer to know how many holes to snap the spring over to have the hand point at any desired number.

By reversing the hand it will point to a different number; for instance, if set for 8 and put on the pin backward, it will point to 4, and so on, with other settings. The dial can be held in the hand, hung on a stand, or fastened to a wall, and can be used to tell the day of the week, time of day, cards selected, etc. The audience can call for any number on the clockface, and the setting of the disks is an easy matter while holding the hand, or pointer, in the hands, so that it cannot be detected.

Uses for Steel Wool

The use of steel wool in place of sandpaper when finishing off new or old work, when preparing it for varnishing or other finishes, will be found very helpful. It is put up in small packages and can be obtained in several grades of fineness. It is especially useful when removing old finishes, in and around moldings, etc., since it conforms to irregular shapes as sandpaper will not. Put on a pair of heavy canvas gloves when using steel wool. They will keep the fine slivers out of the skin. These gloves will also be found useful when varnishing and painting.

Turning Long Wood Rods

To turn a long wood rod of small diameter is not an easy job for the amateur, and a suitable tool for the purpose is seldom found in the amateur’s outfit. The tool illustrated can be easily made from materials that are always at hand. A block of hard wood, A, is first provided, and a hole, B, large enough to admit the square strip from which the rod is to be turned, is bored in the end, whereupon the hole C, which has the diameter of the finished rod, is bored through the block. The hole D is next bored at right angles to the axis of the hole C, and so placed that its edge just touches the outer edge of the hole C. This hole is to receive an ordinary gouge, and must be of such size as to receive the gouge snugly.

The gouge is ground back far enough on the under side to make the cutting edge level with its back, and then beveled off on the inside to a sharp edge. The gouge E is placed in the hole D with the cutting edge on the center line, as shown, and held in place with a wood plug, F. A little soap applied to the bore C will prevent binding.

To use the tool, a strip of wood is pointed sufficiently to allow it to enter the hole C a short distance. The strip may be rotated by holding it in the chuck of a lathe while the tool is held in the hand, using the handle of the gouge to prevent its turning with the stick.--Contributed by J. A. Brearley, Washington, D. C.

Hanging Ladder for a Hatchway

A handy ladder to swing from a hatchway can be made of a solid plank, as shown. Cut the plank to the length desired and saw notches on each side to form steps. With a solid hook to fasten it in a similar hook in the ceiling, at the edge of the opening, it makes a novel yet practical ladder.--Contributed by Victor Carpenter, South Bend, Ind.

An Oilcan Stopper

An empty cartridge shell makes an excellent stopper for an oilcan in case the original stopper becomes lost. The cap in the shell is removed and the hole enlarged with the tang of a file so that a leather thong can be inserted. A knot is tied in the thong on both sides of the base, to prevent the thong from slipping either way. The end of the thong is tied to the bail of the can.

Enamel for Steel Fishing Rods

Make a thin solution of shellac in alcohol and add a teaspoonful of Venice turpentine to each half pint, and the same quantity of lampblack for a black enamel. Scrape the bare spots on the rod and heat it slightly, to melt the shellac for the first coat. Use a fine brush and apply two or three coats, which will give a smooth, glossy, and elastic surface that will not scale or crack.

Bench Receptacles for Small Articles

When working with small, round articles, such as ball bearings, it often happens that they roll off the bench and are lost. To remedy this, I bored several holes, each 2 in. in diameter, in a convenient place in the workbench top, making them about ³⁄₈ in. deep, for the different articles. To make the small parts easily accessible the holes were filled in with thick paste made of plaster of Paris which was molded into a saucer shape. After the plaster became thoroughly dry the inner surface was painted over with white enamel. This made them easily cleaned with a damp cloth. Any article dropped into these depressions will roll to the center, and as the sides are curved it can be easily picked up when it is wanted.--Contributed by Frank L. Matter, Portland, Oregon.

Ruler with Round and Flat Edges

Picking up a smooth piece of ordinary wood molding, intending to use it as a ruler, I found that its shape, A, combined the properties of the round ruler and flat ruler, as well as assuming the third position D. A simple reverse changes the edge from a round to a sharp or flat, accommodating it to a pen or pencil, as shown. Such a piece of molding can be procured from a local lumber dealer.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

A Trouser Hanger

A wood frame, similar to a picture frame, is made up and hinged to the inner side of the closet door with its outer edge hung on two chains. The inside of the frame is fitted with cross bars. After hanging the trousers on the cross bars the frame is swung up against the door where it is held with a hook. Several pairs of trousers can be hung on the frame, and when flat against the door it takes up very little space. The trousers are kept flat so that they will hold their crease.

An Emergency Alcohol Stove

If a person starts on a picnic with a ketchup bottle full of wood alcohol placed in the lunch basket and suddenly discovers that the alcohol stove was left at home, it is not necessary to walk back to get it; just unscrew the cover of the ketchup bottle and bunch a piece of cloth large enough to fill the top, soak it thoroughly in the alcohol and light it. The metal top is just the right size to make a hot flame.

* * * * *

¶A box 8¹⁄₄ in. square and 4 in. deep will hold one gallon.

Fireside Dissolving Views

BY SUSAN E. W. JOCELYN

To those interested in amateur theatricals the following method of showing dissolving views in the fire-light of pipe dreams and mind pictures will be appreciated.

A frame made of light material, A, Fig. 1, covered with red cloth and chalked to represent brick, is placed in the center of the stage. The central opening, representing the fireplace, must be rather large, about 12 ft. wide and 7 ft. high, because it is at the back of this opening that the pictures are produced. From the chimney back, 2¹⁄₂ ft. behind this opening, the sides, B, of the fireplace slope outward to the imitation brickwork. The walls of the fireplace are covered with sheet asbestos, for safety, and painted black; then ashes are rubbed on the chimney back and scattered over the hearthstone, to make the appearance more realistic.

The chimney back is removable, in fact it is one of a series of a half dozen screens, the others being behind it, the proper manipulation of which, together with changing lights, gives to the audience the effect of dissolving views of the dreams that are being acted out directly behind the screens.

The screens are carried in a light frame, the top of which is shown in Fig. 2, with position of runs. The runs are made of narrow strips of wood, fastened to the under side of two end pieces, for the screen frames to slide in. Corresponding strips are placed in a suitable position on the floor, to keep the screens steady in sliding. The frames holding the run pieces are longer than the chimney back is wide, and the upper one is placed as high as the brickwork, the shelf, or mantel, over the fireplace being an extension of the upper part, or frame. The screens are in pairs, as shown in Fig. 3, each one extending to the center of the fireplace. They consist of light frames covered with black mosquito netting. The upper and lower sides of the frames are sandpapered smooth so that they will move easily in the runs. The vertical sides of a pair of screen frames that meet in the center of the fireplace are made of one strand of wire, instead of wood, so that their motion will not be noticeable. To complete the apparatus, andirons and a gas log are needed in the fireplace, and whatever arrangements are necessary for the action of the views to be shown behind the screens.

If gas is available, an asbestos log is used in the fireplace, and it has a connecting pipe to the footlights, where four or five jets are located on the floor just back of the screens. A narrow board, painted black, is placed in front of the lights, which should be wide enough to conceal the lights from the spectators and reflect the light on the tableau. If the light is thrown above the imitation brickwork, then it should be made higher.

In most halls, and some houses, electric lights are used instead of gas, and in this case ordinary logs are piled in the fireplace on the andirons, and one or more red globes are introduced to produce the effect of glowing embers. The gas is more effective, however, because it is not easy to get a gradual rise and fall in the glow of electric lights. Four or five footlights are sufficient.

FIG. 1

FIG. 3

Frames Made of Light Material and Covered with Black Mosquito Netting Serve as Screens Which are Operated in Runs Located behind the Fireplace That is Made Up in a Like Manner and Penciled to Represent Brick]

The working of the dissolving views can be best explained by an illustration from “Reveries of a Bachelor.” The gas log is turned low to make the stage dimly lighted, and the tableau to be shown is all arranged behind the chimney back and the screens. There should be barely sufficient light to reveal the bachelor on the hearthstone smoking in the gloaming. Then the chimney back almost imperceptibly parts, that is, the screens of the first pair are gradually pulled apart, the footlights and gas log are gradually turned on, and the tableau behind the fireplace, being more brightly illuminated, is dimly seen through the series of screens. Slowly the successive pairs of screens are drawn aside, and the tableau becomes quite distinct. Then the process is reversed, the screens are gradually replaced, the lights are lowered and the dream fades away; brightens and fades again; brightens and fades, till gone entirely. The screens are always slowly moving while the tableau is exposed, and this makes the illusory effect. It is evident that the success of this plan depends principally on the coördination with which the screens are operated. “Cinderella,” and many other tales based on the vagaries of the mind and having their source in glowing embers, can thus be presented.

Imitation-Celluloid Scales and Name Plates

Often the amateur turns out a very workmanlike piece of apparatus, which only lacks the addition of a scale or name plate to give it a truly professional appearance. I recently hit upon an excellent method of making these articles in a manner that will stand considerable wear and at the same time present a very good appearance. Simply take a piece of good Bristol board and letter it as desired with waterproof drawing ink, then apply a coat of clear varnish, such as is used on bird’s-eye maple furniture. After not less than 24 hours rub lightly with fine steel wool, wipe clean, and revarnish. Usually two coats are sufficient, and the last should be rubbed with a soft oily rag dipped in some abrasive material such as tooth powder, or one of the many powders used for metal polishing. Finally polish with a little oil, and the result will be a perfect imitation of celluloid.--Contributed by John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.

Direct View Finder for a Box Camera

Disappointment in the taking of pictures with a small camera is often caused by the inability of the photographer to obtain an accurate view of what he is photographing. If, instead of the small view finder on the camera, the device illustrated is used, a view of the resultant photograph may be obtained, right side up, and of nearly the same size as the finished print.

The distance from the lens of the camera to the front surface of the plate or film must be determined. In the camera shown this was 4¹⁄₂ in. The distance from the small metal eyepiece, when it is in place on the box, to the inner side of the opposite end of the box must be made ¹⁄₂ in. shorter than this measurement. This will cause the box to be shorter than the camera.

The box is constructed so that the sides extend above the top and engage the camera. The view-finder eyepiece is made from a flat piece of sheet metal, laid out as shown, and bent into the desired shape. It is fixed over the center of the end of the box. The sight hole must be ¹⁄₃₂ in. in diameter. By sighting through the small opening in the eyepiece an unobstructed view of the prospective photograph is obtained.--Contributed by A. S. Thomas, Amherstburg, Ont.

Checking a Rip in Tire Tubes

It is often difficult to prevent a small rip in an inner tube of a tire from becoming longer, even though a patch has been applied. An effective remedy is to punch a small round hole at each end of the rip before applying the patch. This stops the tendency to rip farther when pressure is applied.--Contributed by George H. Holden, Chesterfield, England.

Protecting Wall Back of Range or Sink