Chapter XXVII: Part II: A Netted Hammock (2)

Homemade toys and gifts, as well as the “treasure boxes” in which they are contained, have an added interest both to the one making and the one receiving them. The holiday season makes this work especially attractive, which affords opportunity for individuality in construction and design limited only by the skill of the worker. The decorated toys and the box described in detail in this article are suggestive only, and may be adapted to a large variety of forms and designs. The gorgeously colored parrot and the gayly caparisoned rider and horse suggest a host of bird and animal forms, those having possibilities for attractive coloring being most desirable. The decorated box shown in Fig. 7 may be adapted as a gift box, to be used where its decoration may be seen, in the nursery, for example, and may be made in many forms, in fact as various as cardboard boxes are. Plant, animal, or geometrical forms may be used to work out designs, and appropriate color schemes applied to them. A good plan in determining upon a color scheme is to use the colors of the flower or other motif. If the design is not associated with objects having varied colors--a geometrical design, for instance--harmonious colors should be chosen. These may be bright and contrasting, as red and green, violet and orange, or subdued in tone.

FIG. 2

The Outlines for the Horse and Rider and the Parrot may be Made by Enlarging These Sketches. The Color Scheme Indicated is Suggestive Only and may be Varied to Suit Individual Taste]

A design for a horse and rider, brightly colored, is shown in Fig. 1. The form is cut out of thin wood, the color applied, and the figure mounted on the curved wire, weighted at one end, as shown in Fig. 6. The toy adds a touch of color and novelty to a room, when suspended from the corner of the mantel, from a shelf, or other suitable place. Balanced in a striking attitude, forefeet upraised, even grown-ups can hardly resist tipping the rider to see his mount rear still higher. The parrot shown in Fig. 2 is made similarly, and is weighted at the end of the tail. The point of balance is at the feet, which may be fastened to a trapeze, or be arranged to perch on a convenient place, like that suited to the horse and rider.

The tools and equipment necessary for the making of such toys are simple, and available in most boys’ workshops or tool chests. A coping saw, like that shown at A, Fig. 3, is suitable for cutting the wood. A fretsaw, operated by hand, foot or power, may be used, and such a tool makes this work quite rapid. To use the coping saw to the best advantage, particularly if the work is to be done on a table which must not be marred, a sawing board should be made. In its simplest form, this consists of a board, as shown at B, about ⁷⁄₈ in. thick, 3¹⁄₂ in. wide, and 6 in. long, with one end notched. This is clamped to the end of the table, as at D, with a clamp, an iron one of the type shown at C being satisfactory. Another form of sawing table especially useful when it is desired to stand up at the work, is shown at E in detail and clamped in the vise at F. It consists of a notched board, 3¹⁄₂ in. wide, fixed at right angles to a board of similar width, 11 in. long, and braced at the joint with a block about 1³⁄₈ in. square. In using the coping saw with either of these saw tables, the wood is held down on the support, as shown in Fig. 5, and the saw drawn downward for each cutting stroke, thus tending to hold the board more firmly against the saw table. It is, of course, important that the saw be inserted in the coping-saw frame with the teeth pointing toward the handle, so that the method of cutting described may be followed. The wood must be sawed slowly, especially at the beginning of a cut. The operator soon learns the kinks in handling the saw and wood to the best advantage, and can then make rapid progress.

B

C

D

E

F

FIG. 3

The Tools Required are Found in Most Boys’ Workshops, and a Satisfactory Saw Table may be Made Easily, as Shown in Detail]

An outline drawing of the form to be cut out of the wood must first be made, to the exact size that the object is to be. There is much satisfaction if working out the form of the animal or other figure, especially for the boy or girl who has the time necessary to do good work. If desired, the figure may be traced from a picture obtained from a book, magazine, or other source. Cut a piece of wood to the size required for the design, and place a sheet of carbon paper over it; or if none is available, rub a sheet of paper with a soft pencil, and use this as a carbon paper, the side covered with the lead being placed next to the wood. The carbon paper and the sheet bearing the design should then be held in place on the wood with thumb tacks, or pins, and the transfer made with a pencil, as shown in Fig. 4. The design should be placed on the wood so that the weaker parts, such as the legs of the horse, will extend with the length instead of across the grain of the wood. In some instances, where a complicated form is cut out, it is necessary to use wood of several plies, and where this is available it is worth while to use it for all of this work. For smaller objects wood ³⁄₁₆ in. thick is suitable, and stock up to ¹⁄₂ in. in thickness may be used. Whitewood, basswood, poplar and other soft, smooth-grained woods are suitable.

FIG. 5

The Design is Traced Carefully onto the Wood and Then Cut Out with the Coping Saw, on the Saw Table]

When the design has been outlined satisfactorily, place the piece of wood on the saw table with the design on the upper side. Holding the wood down firmly, as shown in Fig. 5, and sawing in the notch of the saw table, cut into the edge slowly. Apply light pressure on the downstroke only, as the upstroke is not intended to cut, and turn the piece to keep the saw on the line and in the notch. It is important that the saw be held vertically so that the edge of the cut-out portion will be square. With proper care and a little practice, the edges may be cut so smoothly that only a light sandpapering will be required to produce a smooth edge. When the figure has been cut out, smooth the edges by trimming them carefully with a sharp knife, if necessary, and sandpaper them lightly to remove sharp corners. A fine sandpaper, about No. ¹⁄₂, is suitable for this purpose. The figure is then ready for painting. The white is put on first and the other colors applied over it, when dry.

Oil paints may be used, and a varnish or shellac applied over them to give a high grade of work, but this process requires much care, considerable skill, and long drying between coats to prevent “runs” in the colors.

Water-color paint, which can be purchased in powder form at paint stores, mixed with water to the consistency of cream is a satisfactory coloring material, and is easy to apply. Five cents’ worth of each of the colors used--yellow, red, blue, black, and white--will be sufficient for several toys. Mix each color in a separate saucer, and use a small water-color brush to apply the paint. In painting the horse and rider, the horse is first painted entirely white, and then the black spots are applied after the color is dry. The rider’s coat is painted red; the trousers blue; the hat and leggings buff, as indicated in Fig. 1. Mix a brushful of yellow with a brushful of red, and add about three brushfuls of white. A half brushful of black may be added to dull the color, if desired. The flesh tone for the rider’s face is made by mixing a little red with white. When the colors are dry, all edges are outlined with a heavy line of black, not less than ¹⁄₈ in. in width. This outline may be evenly applied with the point of the brush.

A Handmade Box Is Interesting in that It Expresses the Individuality of the Maker, Especially When Made as a Gift]

The method of making the parrot is similar to that described for the horse and rider, and the color scheme is suggested in Fig. 2.

It will be noticed that no attempt is made to secure a lifelike, or realistic, effect in painting these toy shapes. All colors are flat, that is, without light and shade. The toys are really decorative designs, and the maker is at liberty to use any colors desired, whether natural or not.

The horse and rider is balanced on the hind foot, as shown in Fig. 6, by using a lead weight, attached to a ¹⁄₁₆-in. wire, as a counterweight. The wire should be set into the body of the horse, behind the foreleg, to a depth of ³⁄₄ in. The weight of the metal and the curve of the wire should be adjusted to obtain the proper balance. The parrot is balanced in the same way, except that the weight is fixed to the end of the tail, which is curved like the wire.

These and other homemade toys or gifts may be sent or contained appropriately in boxes decorated to match them, as shown in Fig. 7. They may be made complete, or commercial boxes of suitable sizes may be covered and decorated. If good materials are used, such a box makes a pretty and useful gift in itself. The complete process of making a typical box is described for those who prefer to make one of special size. The dimensions given are thus only suggestive, and may be adapted to suit particular needs.

Color Schemes may be Obtained from Flowers and Other Natural Forms, or by Selecting a Combination of Harmonious Shades. The Background Is of Plum-Colored Paper; the Small Circles are Emerald-Green; the Light Area, Yellow, and the Ovals, Orange-Red]

The materials necessary are: cardboard, cover paper, lining paper, bond paper, paste, and water colors. The latter should be of the opaque variety since white or other light shades may then be used on darker-colored paper. A sharp knife, a scissors, a metal-edge ruler, and bookbinder’s paste are also needed. Suitable substitutes for the various kinds of paper may usually be obtained in the home, if they are not readily available at local stationery stores or printing establishments.

H

J

M

K

L

N

O

P

Q

FIG. 9

The Various Steps in the Process of Making and Covering a Rectangular Cardboard Box are Shown in Detail. The Method of Making a Pattern for the Design is shown Below]

The box is made as follows: Determine upon the proper size and select materials to carry out the design. An appropriate combination of colors and materials is suggested in Fig. 8. Cut out a square of the cardboard, having sides 12¹⁄₂ in. long, as shown in Fig. 9, at G, then mark it as indicated and cut on the full line to remove the square corners. Crease it on the dotted lines and fold to form a box. To hold the cardboard in box shape, strips of bond paper--ordinary writing paper--are cut, 3³⁄₄ in. long and 1 in. wide, then creased along their centers and pasted to the corners. The paste should be applied to the paper strip first, then on the corners of the box. Apply the piece of paper over the corner of the box on the outside, pressing it to make a snug fit. Repeat this operation on the other corners.

Lay off the dimensions given at H on the selected color of cover paper, which in this instance is plum, and score the lines indicated. Spread paste smoothly over the surface of the plum paper, between the lines drawn ³⁄₈ in. from the long edges, and then spread a thin layer of paste over the outer surface of one of the sides of the box. Apply the paper to the pasted surface and press it down, rubbing gently out from the center to remove air bubbles. Fold the ³⁄₈-in. laps at the top and bottom over the upper edge of the box and around the lower corner. Repeat this process, covering the four sides. To form a smooth fold at the corners, it is best to miter the paper as shown at J and K, before pasting it down. Then paste a square of the same paper 4⁷⁄₈ in. wide on the bottom of the box, taking care to match the edges evenly all around.

Line the box with a strip of lining paper, 20 in. long and 4 in. wide. Try the lining by folding it into the box so that its upper edge is about ¹⁄₈ in. from the edge of the box, and crease it carefully into the corners. Remove it, apply paste, and press it well into the corners when pasting it down. Paste a square of the same paper, 4⁷⁄₈ in wide, in the bottom of the box.

The cover is made by the same process as the main portion of the box. The dimensions of the cardboard are shown at L, and the covering at M. It should be observed that the cover is slightly wider than the box, so that it will fit easily.

When the box is thoroughly dry, it is ready to receive the decorations on the top and sides. The design may be adapted from a leaf, flower, or similar form, as well as from geometric or animal forms. The horse and rider, the parrot, and the animals shown in the headpiece of this article are all suggestive of animal forms that are available.

The design shown on the box in Fig. 7 was adapted from a flower form, two of the units being joined for the decoration on the top. To obtain a pattern for the design, fold a piece of paper, 2 by 4 in., as shown at N, and outline one-half of a leaf, flower or similar motif. Cut the folded paper as at O, and a pattern similar to that shown at P results. Trace around this to place the figure on the box. Outline the figure with black, about ¹⁄₈ in. wide, as at Q. The oval figures, suggestive of small pods on a flower, are also outlined in black, and joined to the main portion of the design by a black line. Thinner black lines are drawn vertically across the form, and small circles placed along them at intervals. The color scheme is shown in Fig. 8. The light background is yellow, the small circles are emerald-green, and the ovals red-orange. The rim of the cover is decorated with a border of white ovals, outlined in black. The corners are banded in black and white as shown in Fig. 7.

Care and Storage of Camp Equipment

A slovenly sportsman misses much of the joy of the man who takes pride in giving his outfit the proper care, not only during its period of use, but also during the winter, when occasional overhauling serves to keep one in touch with sports of other seasons. And a very real joy it is, each article recalling an experience as one examines it minutely for a possible rust spot, scratch, or injury.

Tents usually come in for much abuse, which shortens their life considerably. Cotton duck molds quickly, and rots if left rolled up damp. Care should be taken, therefore, to insure its perfect dryness before storing. Silk and silk-composition tents, being thoroughly waterproof, are almost as dry after a rain or dew as before, so may be packed for moving at any time. But all tents and tarpaulins should be washed and dried carefully after the season’s use.

Blankets absorb much moisture, and should be shaken and spread out over bushes to dry in the sun, at least once a week. In the cold nights of late summer, the increased warmth of blankets after drying is considerable.

Pack straps and ropes should not be left exposed to the weather. They speedily become hard or brittle; squirrels like the salt they can obtain by chewing the leather, and if left on the ground in a rabbit country, the straps are soon cut into bits. Hang the leather goods in the peak of the tent, keep them away from fire, and oil them occasionally.

A canoe should not be left in the water overnight, or at any time when it is not in use. Simply because use makes it wet, a canoe should not be left so any more than a gun should be left dirty, or an ax dull. If on a cruise with a heavy load, pile the stuff on shore at the night camp, and turn the canoe over it. If a canoe is permitted to remain in the water unnecessarily, or its inside exposed to rain, it soon becomes water-soaked and heavy for portage, besides drying out when exposed to the sun, and developing leaks.

Small punctures in the bottom of a canoe may be mended with spruce, tamarack, or pine gum, melted into place with a glowing firebrand, held close, while blowing at the spot to be repaired. Torn rags of canvas-covered bottoms may be glued with the softer gum of new “blazes,” gathered with a knife or flat stick.

While traveling on shallow streams the bottom of a board canoe develops a “fur” of rubbed-up shreds. Every night these should be cut short with a sharp-pointed knife, to prevent a shred from pulling out and developing into a large splinter. The paddles, and the setting pole, unless shod with iron, become burred at the ends and require trimming down to solid wood.

The track line, if in use, is wet most of the time, and unless dried frequently, becomes rotten. Every tracker knows the grave danger with a rotten line in a rapids.

During the winter the canoe should be scraped and sandpapered, bulges nailed down, permanent repairs made to the covering, and the canoe painted on the exterior and varnished on the interior.

The average fisherman is an enthusiast who needs no urging in the matter of caring for his outfit, and the user of firearms should profit by this example. Even if not a shot has been fired from a gun all day, moisture from the hands, or from the dampness in the woods, or marshes, may cause rust spots, or corrode the bore. Rub an oily rag through the bore and over the outside of the gun every evening, before laying it aside.

Cleaning rods are safer and more thorough in cleaning the bore than the common mouse string, which may break when drawing a heavy piece of cloth through, causing much difficulty. A wooden rod, preferably of hickory, is best, although the metal rod is stronger for use in small bores, but care must be taken not to wear the muzzle unduly. The hunting weapons should be carefully overhauled before storing them, and given a coat of oil to protect the metal parts from rust.--A. M. Parker, Edmonton, Can.

Useful Periscope Which a Boy Can Make

Mention of periscopes is quite common in the reports from European battle fields; such a device in a simple form can be made easily by boys who have fair skill with tools. The illustration shows a periscope which may be used for play, and has other practical uses as well. In a store or other place where a person on duty cannot watch all parts of the establishment, such a device is convenient in that it will reflect persons entering the door. As a toy or for experimental purposes the periscope shown has many possibilities, and will appeal to youngsters.

It consists of a square box, 18 in. long, open at the ends. It is 3¹⁄₂ in. wide and made of wood, ³⁄₈ in. thick. A mirror is fitted at an angle of 45° near one end of the box or tube, as shown in the sketch. The front of the mirror is opposite a three-cornered opening in the box which extends across one side. The opposite end of the tube is also fitted with a mirror in the same manner, except that the front of the mirror faces to the opposite side of the box at which there is also an opening. In using this device, the user sights from the point indicated by the eye. The image is reflected in the mirror at the top and thrown onto the lower mirror, where it may be seen without exposing the head above the level of the lower opening. It is this application of reflection by mirrors that makes it possible for soldiers to see distant objects without exposing themselves to fire, by the use of the periscope.

Trap for Coyotes

Two coyotes, resisting capture in a hole under a lava ledge, were hauled forth quickly when the device shown in the sketch was used, after other means had proved ineffective.

I made a snare of baling wire and attached it to a pole, 6 ft. long, running the wire down from the loop to the end of the handle. The loop was made about twice the size of the coyote’s head, and, by drawing on the wire at the handle, the animals were placed under control and held at a safe distance.--Contributed by Milton Barth, Geyserville, Cal.

Utilizing an Empty Paste Pot

The type of paste pot that contains a central well to hold the paste brush is not always cast aside when empty. A pincushion built to fit the outer ring, or paste-holding section, is added and the brush holder is used to hold pens and pencils.

* * * * *

¶A magnet may be used to advantage in picking up tacks or small nails
which have been scattered on a floor.

A Colonial Mirror Frame

Black walnut, or mahogany, is the most effective wood to use in making this simple but artistic frame. It requires a very small amount of stock and what is used should be of a good quality and carefully worked to the given dimensions with keen tools. The stock required for the frame is as follows:

Black walnut, or mahogany:

2 pieces, 27¹⁄₂ in. long, 1³⁄₈ in. wide, and ³⁄₄ in. thick.

1 piece, 22 in. long, 1³⁄₈ in. wide, and ³⁄₄ in. thick.

1 piece 9¹⁄₄ in. long, 1³⁄₈ in. wide and ¹⁄₄ in. thick.

White holly:

1 piece, 27¹⁄₂ in. long, 1¹⁄₂ in. wide, and ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick.

Picture board:

1 piece, 25 in. long, 9 in. wide, and ¹⁄₈ in. thick.

The dimensions for the walnut or mahogany pieces are rough sizes, oversize to allow for the planing to the dimensions given in the sketch. The white holly may be procured smoothly planed on both sides and of the exact thickness required. The picture backing may be purchased in almost any store that sells frames. It is usually rough pine and inexpensive.

The first operation is to plane the frame pieces on one side and edge, using great care to insure both being perfectly straight and the edge square with the face. Gauge for, and plane to the thickness required, although this need not be exactly ⁵⁄₈ in. as called for, but if the stock will stand ¹¹⁄₁₆ in. or ³⁄₄ in. do not take the time to cut it down to ⁵⁄₈ in. The little cross rail must be exactly ¹⁄₈ in. thick, as it is to be let ¹⁄₈ in. into the rabbet cut for the glass, which makes it come ¹⁄₈ in. back from the face of the frame when it is in place. Plane all of these pieces to the width, 1¹⁄₈ inch.

For cutting the rabbet, a plow, or a ³⁄₄-in. grooving, plane is the best tool to use, but if neither is available a rabbet plane can be used. Be sure to plane the rabbet square and to the lines gauged for the depth and width.

To groove the pieces for the holly strips a special tool is required. This may be made of a piece of soft sheet steel or iron, which must be of a thickness to correspond to that of the holly. A piece 2¹⁄₂ in. long, and of almost any width, will answer the purpose. File one edge of the metal straight, and cut saw teeth in it by filing straight across with a small saw file. Remove the burr raised by the filing by rubbing each side on an oilstone. Drill two holes in it for fastening with screws to a piece of hard wood. The wood serves as a fence, and if properly fastened to the metal, the teeth should cut a groove ¹⁄₁₆ in. deep and ³⁄₁₆ in. from the edge. The holly strip should fit the groove tightly so that it can be driven home with light taps of a hammer. It is well to try the tool on a bit of waste wood first to see if it cuts the groove properly.

The holly is cut into strips, ¹⁄₈ in. wide with a slitting gauge. An ordinary marking gauge, with the spur filed flat on each side to make a sharp, deep line, will do very well for this work. The gauging is done from both sides of the piece to make the spur cut halfway through from each side. Before the slitting is attempted, one edge of the piece is first straightened. This is readily accomplished with a fore plane, laid on its side and used as a shoot plane. The strip to be planed is laid flat on a piece of ⁷⁄₈-in. stock with one edge projecting slightly. This raises it above the bench and allows the fore plane to be worked against the projecting edge.

The strips should be applied to the groove to test the fit, and if found to be tight, they must be tapered slightly by filing or scraping the sides. If the fit is good, hot glue may be run into the grooves with a sharp stick, and the strips driven into place. They will project above the surface slightly, but no attempt should be made to plane them off flush until the glue has become thoroughly hardened; then use a sharp plane, and finish with a scraper and No. 00 sandpaper.

The miters are cut in a miter box, or planed to the exact 45° angle on a miter shoot board. Before gluing the corners, the recesses are cut for the cross rail, but it must not be put in place until the corners of the frame have been fastened and the glue given time to dry.

The frame may be given either a dull or bright finish. The dull finish gives a rich appearance and is very easy to apply. Give the completed frame one coat of white shellac, and when it is dry, rub the surface with very fine sandpaper until it has a smooth finish. Finish with any of the prepared waxes, being careful to follow the directions furnished.

Before putting the board back of the mirror, be sure to place two or three sheets of clean paper on the silvered surface. The picture board is fastened with glazier’s points, or with small bung-head wire nails. The back is finished by gluing a sheet of heavy wrapping paper to the edges of the frame. If the wrapping paper is moistened with a damp cloth before it is applied, it will dry out smooth and tightly drawn over the back.

* * * * *

¶An emergency penholder may be made by fixing the pen on the end of a
pencil with a clip, or small rubber band.

A Turntable Stand for Potted Flowers

Potted flowers, if kept in the house, tend to grow toward the light. From time to time the pot should be turned. To do this more readily, the turntable stand shown in the sketch was designed. It is made up of a low, four-legged taboret upon which a 12-in. disk of 1-in. wood is fixed with a screw. A thin wooden washer, sandpapered and shellacked, insures easy turning. Rectangular boxes or circular jars look equally well upon the stand, the beauty of which depends much upon its workmanship and finish.--Edward R. Smith, Walla Walla, Wash.

Index for Popular Mechanics Magazine on Bookshelf

As it would be impossible to keep in one’s mind all the good ideas given in Popular Mechanics Magazine, I preserve my back numbers for reference, and, to reduce the amount of index and page searching, I have adopted a convenient plan of indexing any special article to which I expect to refer. I write, on one end of a strip of paper, the page and date of issue of the article. I place these slips at the proper pages in the magazine, so as to project at the top, as shown, making reference easy. If a slip drops out, it is quickly replaced. When articles are no longer needed for reference, the slips are removed. By keeping the magazines on an open shelf they can be reached handily, for reference as well as for removing them from the shelf.--J. E. McCormack, Haliburton, Ont., Can.

Trimming Board with Foot Control and Counterweight

A trimming board with the knife operated by a pedal, leaving both hands free to handle the work, is a device appreciated by photographers, commercial artists, and others who have more or less heavy paper or cardboard to trim. An ordinary trimming board is mounted on a packing box of suitable dimensions, as shown. A pedal is hinged to the bottom of the box, and a heavy cord, or wire, runs to the handle of the knife, so that pressure on the pedal operates the knife. The latter is returned by a weighted rope, passing over a pulley attached to a standard at the rear corner.--H. F. Blanchard, New York, N. Y.

Folding Card Table Handy for Invalid in Bed

When it is necessary to serve a meal to a patient in bed, and no invalid table is at hand, use an ordinary folding card or serving table. Unfold one end over the bed, and a splendid substitute table is provided, useful for reading, games, and other purposes. If the table rests too low on the bed, adjust it with cushions. This is far more convenient than using a tray.--John P. Rupp, Norwalk, Ohio.

Morris Chair with Newspaper Rack, and Smoker’s Trays

BY J. E. Bronson

A comfortable and novel after-dinner chair for the man in the household can be made by fitting a morris chair, or other armchair, with devices which appeal especially to a man. The chair shown is that of the ordinary mission morris type. It is of simple outline and can be made by the home mechanic of fair skill in furniture making. The details of its construction, while not essential to a description of the special fittings, are shown in the several working drawings. The joints used for the framework are of the common mortise-and-tenon variety. The back is a plain frame, fitted with vertical slats, and hinged to a shoulder in the back legs, as shown in the side view. For a substantial piece of furniture, oak or other hard wood should be used; as a piece of porch or summer-cottage furniture, the chair may be made of softer woods. The cushion can be made of various leathers, or upholstery fabrics. It is built over a wooden frame and is removable. The seat bottom may be paneled, and a loose cushion fitted into it, and a similar one bound with thongs to the back of the chair.

The drawer is slightly different from the standard construction in that the front is arranged as a blind rail. It fits snugly between the front legs and is suspended from strips fitted between the pairs of legs at the sides.

No handle is provided, as the drawer can be opened easily by grasping it underneath the front board. Pipes, smoker’s supplies, or a variety of other articles may be stored handily in it.

The newspaper rack, as detailed, is made up of strips forming a basket, which supported by a rod pivoted in wooden hangers, one on each of the side legs, adjoining the rack. When papers are not being taken out or placed in it, the rack is tilted back against the side of the chair arm. The ash and tobacco trays, which may be made large enough for cigars, are suspended under the right chair arm by means of rings made of strips of brass. These holders are pivoted on bolts, and the trays can be removed easily for cleaning. They are ordinarily swung out of the way, under the arm. The special features of the chair may also be adapted to the needs of nonsmokers.

* * * * *

¶The nuisance of soiled fingers and pen grip in lettering, when using
a deep ink bottle, can be avoided by filling a bottle up to the neck
with cement, and using only the neck as an inkwell.

Homemade Talking-Machine Cabinet

An old six-foot folding screen, three-ply ¹⁄₄-in. panels from a packing box, and parts from secondhand talking machines, were used to make the cabinet shown in the photograph reproduced. The screen was cut down to form a framework of the desired height for the sides and back. Other parts of the screen were used for the frames of the doors on the front, and for the top. The panels were made from a good quality of three-ply stock, with a hardwood face, which was scraped, sandpapered, and brought to a very smooth finish. The material happened to have a pretty grain, and this added to the effect when it was stained and varnished. Pieces of this stock were used for the sounding horn and for other interior fittings, such as the shelves for records and the drawer below the horn. Space is provided for a large supply of records.

A secondhand two-spring motor, a turntable, and a sound arm from a disk machine were fitted into the cabinet, and gave excellent service. Care in staining the woodwork, shellacking, and varnishing it with several coats, gave the cabinet almost a commercial finish, and at a cost of $16.35 for all materials.

Eggshells as Flowerpots

A novel method of caring for small plants until they are ready to be set out in the garden is shown in the photograph reproduced. Holes were bored in the bottom of the till of an old trunk and eggshells fitted into them. Seeds were planted in the shells and the names of the varieties were marked on them. The arrangement is compact, and when the plants are ready for planting, the shells may be broken, and the plants set without disturbing the roots--Charles Darlington, Des Moines, Ia.

A Recording Annunciator Target

In rifle practice it is often desirable to provide a target which will indicate to the marksman when the bull’s-eye is struck. The device shown in the sketch, arranged behind an ordinary card target, has given satisfactory results on a private range, and can easily be adapted for other uses.

FIG. 2

FIG. 3

The Bullet Forces the Hinge against the Thumbscrew, Causing the Bell to Ring]

Referring to Fig. 1, A indicates a wooden base, 4 by 8 by ¹⁄₂ in., on which is mounted a strap hinge, B, 6¹⁄₂ in. long, by means of a block, 1³⁄₈ in. high. An opening, C, 1¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, is provided in the base, and a plate, D 1³⁄₄ in. square, is riveted to the strap hinge opposite to the opening. An electromagnet, E, obtained from an electric bell, is mounted upon the base under the small end of the hinge. A standard, F, provided with a cross arm, G, is secured upon the base between the opening and the magnet. A thumbscrew with a locknut extends through the cross arm, engaging the rear side of the strap hinge, and permits an adjustment of distance between the core of the magnet and the surface of the hinge. A bell or buzzer, H, is connected as indicated, through the battery circuit. The electromagnet is connected through the battery and push button J.

The strap hinge normally rests against the electromagnet. The force of any projectile passing through the opening against the plate closes the bell circuit and indicates to the marksman that the bull’s-eye has been hit. By the closing of the magnet circuit, the strap hinge is drawn again into normal position and the bell circuit is broken. Figure 2 shows a front view of the circuit-closing device. The device may be mounted in any suitable box, as suggested in Fig. 3. The front of the box is covered with sheet metal, ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick, and the standard target card is mounted thereon.--John B. Brady, Washington, D. C.

* * * * *

¶A convenient method of holding paper in a roll is to fasten a wire
clip at each end near the edge of the piece.

Scraper for Tennis Court

In order to level and scrape a tennis court, which was in bad condition, the two-man scraper shown in the sketch was made. It is built of rough lumber, and a metal shoe is fixed to the lower edge of the scraping blade at the rear. The bearing at the front is on a flat-bottom sled of wood, and the depth of the cut is regulated by pressure on the handle. The scraping blade is set at an angle, as shown in the smaller sketch. By lifting the handle slightly, the operator is able to deposit dirt in holes so that when the court is rolled they are filled evenly. Where a large number of courts are to be smoothed, the device may be adapted and made large enough to be drawn by a horse.--Edward R. Smith, Walla Walla, Wash.

Barrel Staves as Springs for Play Auto

I made springs for a small foot-power automobile by using barrel staves joined together in the shape of pointed oval wagon springs. Two strong staves were nailed together at each end and braced with a block where they were nailed. Two of these springs were placed over the rear axle and one of them was set over the front axle extending in the direction of its length. The wooden springs made the automobile ride comfortably.--Charles Delbridge, St. Louis, Mo.

Hall Seat with Storage Compartment

The illustration represents a simple design for an easily made and substantial hall seat, provided with a compartment for odds and ends. It is advisable to make it of wood to match its surroundings. The following material is necessary:

2 ends, ⁷⁄₈ by 14 by 28 in

2 rails, ⁷⁄₈ by 6 by 38 in.

1 seat board, ⁷⁄₈ by 14 by 36¹⁄₄ in.

1 bottom board, ⁷⁄₈ by 12¹⁄₄ by 36¹⁄₄ in.

2 seat cleats, ⁷⁄₈ by ⁷⁄₈ by 12¹⁄₄ in.

2 bottom cleats, ⁷⁄₈ by ⁷⁄₈ by 11¹⁄₂ in.

The two ends, A, are marked to the same outline and cut with a coping or scroll saw. If a fine-toothed saw is used, the edges of the boards can be easily smoothed with sandpaper, otherwise a file is necessary to remove the coarse saw traces. The rails B are cut to size and squared up at the ends, after which they can be placed at the proper places on the ends A, which may then be marked for the notches to receive the rails. In fastening the rails to the end pieces, 2-in. round-head screws can be used. The seat C is attached to the back rail by 2-in. butt hinges. To prevent the seat from sagging in the middle, it is supported on each side by cleats screwed to the end pieces A. If the seat is liable to warp it can be held straight by two cleats screwed underneath. The bottom board D may be held in place by means of screws through the rails, or by resting on cleats screwed to the end pieces. The seat, when assembled and thoroughly sandpapered, can be finished to suit.

Putting In Screw Hooks Neatly

To prevent a wire hook, when the last few turns are given, from marring or scratching the surface, special care must be taken. A splendid way to do the work neatly is to first lay a piece of stiff paper on the surface where the hook is to be attached and hold it in place while starting the screw hook. Turn the hook in the usual way through the paper. When the hook is in place the paper can be removed by tearing it off.--Contributed by Emile Parent.

A Window Ventilator

The illustration shows a ventilator I constructed to allow air to pass through between the upper and lower window sash. It consists of a board 8 or 10 in. wide, and as long as the window sash is wide. A short distance from one end it is marked and cut on a slant. The small piece removed is hinged to the main part so that it can be raised in taking the board from the window. When the sash rests on the board it cannot be removed from the window.--Contributed by David Hannigan, Orange, Connecticut.

BY N. E. STUDEBAKER]

The floor space in our high-school shop is somewhat limited, leaving no room on the floor for the gluing press, and during a large part of the year the temperature on the floor is too low for gluing. We met these conditions with the gluing press illustrated.

Three pairs, or sets, of steps, A, were made of pine, 2 in. thick, and fastened in a series by strips B, so that they all would move forward or backward between the guides C, which are nailed to the floor above the shop. On one of the steps--the corresponding one in each pair--rests a piece of wood, D, 4 in. wide and 2 in. thick, through which, near its ends, are bored holes to receive lengths of 1-in. gas pipe, E. Over these holes and screwed to the wood piece are 1-in. floor flanges, F. The pipes E are threaded at one end so that they will screw through the floor flanges about 3 in. On the other ends of the gas pipes are fitted pieces of material, 4 in. wide and 2 in. thick, G, resting on washers, which in turn rest on the locknuts H. The locknuts H prevent the tees J from unscrewing in operating the press. A rod is used through the tees as a handle for screwing the pipes E on or out of the floor flanges F. On top of the pieces G rests the floor K, on which are placed the pieces to be glued. On the under side of the ceiling joists, and directly over the floor K, is spiked the 2-in. piece L, between which piece and the floor K the material is pressed. For the sake of stiffness and lightness the floor K is built up of 1-in. material, as shown in the detail. This floor may be raised or lowered by the windlass M. The windlass is simply a ³⁄₄-in. gas pipe turning in bearings fastened to the under side of the ceiling joists.

Supposing the press to be standing as shown in the drawings, it is operated as follows: The pipes E are unscrewed so that their upper ends are flush with the top surface of the floor flanges F. The ropes N are wound up a trifle on the windlass M, thus raising the pieces D, the pipes E, and the floor K. Lifting D clear of the steps releases the latter so that the entire series may be moved to the right by pulling the rope O. In unwinding the ropes from the windlass, D is let down on the lowest step, which has just been drawn directly under it. This operation lowers the floor K to its lowest limit and the pieces to be glued are placed, one on the other, on this floor. If the total thickness of the material to be glued is sufficient to nearly fill the space between the floor and the piece L, a rod is thrust through J, and the pipes are screwed up, thus pressing the material between the floor K and the piece L. If, however, the material does not fill the space well, then the ropes N are wound up on the windlass M, thus raising the floor and its contents as far as possible, and by pulling the rope P the steps are drawn as far to the left as possible and D rests on a higher step, thus lessening the space to be taken up by the screws. The pipes are then screwed up tightly as in the first operation. Our press is operated from a mezzanine floor where all the gluing is done.

A Luminous-Minnow Fish Bait

Make a plug of light wood, preferably cedar or white pine, 1³⁄₄ in. long and ³⁄₄ in. in diameter at the large end, tapering to ¹⁄₄ in. at the small end. Finish it to the shape of a minnow and bore a ⁵⁄₁₆-in. hole, 1 in. deep, in the large end. Make a lead plug, with a hole through the center, to drive tightly into the hole in the head of the minnow, and finish the front end smooth and even with the wood. Run a wire through the minnow and form an eye at the tail for hooks, and another at the head for the swivel. A three-cornered piece of tin inserted ¹⁄₂ in. back of the head on each side and bent so that the water will cause it to turn gives motion to the lure.

Two coats of luminous paint will be sufficient for the illumination. Expose the minnow to the light for several hours, and it will give a luminous glow in the dark that makes it easily seen by the fish as it is drawn through the water. As most game fish are night feeders, it makes a very effective lure.--Contributed by Charles Carrol, Saint Cloud, Fla.

To Prevent Putty Sticking to the Hands

When purchasing putty buy a little whiting. This is one of the ingredients of the putty. Mix enough of it with the putty to absorb the excess oil. This will prevent it from sticking to the hands. It also gives the putty more body and makes it much easier to handle.

Signal for Lighted Lights in Basement

To avoid the loss of electric current by forgetting to turn out the light in the basement, I placed a 3-cp. lamp in the circuit near the switch at the head of the stairs. The small light is a signal that the light is still turned on in the basement.--Contributed by A. MacCunn, Toronto, Can.

Dies for Cutting Cardboard

An inexpensive, yet very efficient, die for cutting quantities of tin foil, sheet lead, paper, and cardboard can be made from a steel rule such as used by printers. Procure a rule, two points or about ¹⁄₃₂ in. thick, which comes in 2-ft. lengths. The rule can be readily bent without annealing. Bend it to the desired shape and solder, or weld, the ends together. To give it rigidity, fill in the space with melted lead to a depth of half the height of the die.

Place the material to be cut against the die and put both into a vise, or letter press. Apply pressure steadily until the die has cut through the last thickness of the material. As many as 5 pieces can be placed and cut at one time. When cutting designs for static machines, etc., from tin foil, this appliance does away with the tedious work of cutting one at a time, and then, too, they will all be uniform. In making the connection at the ends of the rule, be sure that they meet evenly and do not lap to make the joint.--Contributed by M. H. Granholt, Long Beach, Cal.

How to Make a Vacuum Pail

As a substitute for a vacuum bottle a very efficient pail can be made in the following manner: Procure a 1-gal. sirup pail for the outside and a ¹⁄₂-gal. size for the inside. Make a collar of tin, as shown, with projections; bend these down, inside and outside, then solder the collar to the inside of the larger pail, and the smaller pail to the inside of the collar. Be sure to make a perfectly air-tight joint in the soldering. This gives a double wall with an air-tight space all around the inner pail, or opening. To make vacuum covers for the pails, take two covers of each size and solder them together, as shown.

To produce a vacuum, make a small hole in the metal forming the collar, also one in each cover. Put a few drops of water in each vacuum compartment and set the parts on a heated surface. When the steam escapes, solder the holes. This will produce a partial vacuum in the space around the inner pail and in the covers. This will make a very efficient vacuum pail.--Contributed by John H. Spicer, Magnolia, Ark.

Ironing Board for Use on a Table

A handy ironing board for use on kitchen or dining-table top is made with a cleat to keep it from moving across the table top. The cleat, which is 1¹⁄₂ or 2 in. wide, is fastened to the board with screws. If desired, the board can be made as immovable as the table top by putting another cleat at one end, so that the two cleats will hold against one side and one edge of the table top.--Contributed by H. S. Craig, Rushford, Minn.

Combination Bookcase and Writing Desk

In planning a writing desk, much convenience can be added by providing it with a bookcase, in which may be stored those reference works most frequently used. The design illustrated furnishes ample room as a drawing desk, besides providing sufficient space in an inclosed cabinet for books or letter-filing cases.

The material required, figuring exact sizes, is as follows:

2 sides, ⁷⁄₈ by 16¹⁄₂ by 67 in.

1 bottom shelf, ⁷⁄₈ by 12 by 32¹⁄₄ in.

1 top shelf, ⁷⁄₈ by 9¹⁄₄ by 32¹⁄₄ in.

1 back, ³⁄₈ by 40 by 31 in., made of pieces of convenient widths.

1 desk board, ⁷⁄₈ by 16¹⁄₈ by 30 in.

1 lower bookcase shelf, ⁷⁄₈ by 9¹⁄₈ by 30 in.

1 middle bookcase shelf, ⁷⁄₈ by 8³⁄₈ by 30 in.

1 desk cover, ⁷⁄₈ by 15¹⁄₂ by 30 in.

1 upper back rail, ⁷⁄₈ by 5 by 30 in.

Bookcase Doors

4 stiles, ³⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₄ by 19 in.

4 rails, ³⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₄ by 13¹⁄₂ in.

2 mullions, ¹⁄₄ by 1 by 17¹⁄₂ in.

2 mullions, ¹⁄₄ by 1 by 13¹⁄₂ in.

1 pigeon-hole stock, ³⁄₈ by 7 by 72 in.

For Main Drawer

1 front, ³⁄₄ by 4 by 30 in.

2 sides, ³⁄₈ by 4 by 15¹⁄₂ in.

1 back, ³⁄₈ by 3¹⁄₄ by 29¹⁄₂ in.

1 bottom, ³⁄₈ by 15¹⁄₄ by 29¹⁄₂ in.

2 drawer slides, ⁷⁄₈ by 1¹⁄₂ by 15 in.

1 lower rail, ⁷⁄₈ by 1¹⁄₂ by 30 in.

1 molding strip, ¹⁄₄ by ³⁄₈ by 120 in.

As the main sides are of considerable width, it would be best to make them of two pieces glued together and, in order to obtain a strong and neat joint, to have this done by an experienced joiner, or in the mill. The back edges should be carefully planed, and rabbeted ³⁄₈ in. deep by ¹⁄₂ in. wide for the ³⁄₈-in. thick back. The bottom or foot piece of the sides should be squared up with the back edges, or the completed desk is liable to be winding, or warped. The bottom and top shelves or main cross braces should be marked and cut out, and, to be in harmony with the shape of the sides, the lower-shelf tenons are made wider than those on the upper shelf. The top shelf should be rabbeted ¹⁄₂ in. deep by ³⁄₈ in. wide, to fit the back boards which are nailed to it. The required mortises in the sidepieces are marked from the corresponding tenons of the shelves, and can then be cut out with a chisel. When finished, the four parts constituting the frame should be assembled, and may be held together with blind screws, or dowel pins, passed through the tenons.