Chapter VII: Part II: Sailing the Open Paddling Canoe

Sailing and its recreations are afforded the owner of an open paddling canoe, for a satisfactory sailing rig may be provided at small cost. A regulation sailing outfit may be purchased, but it is rather costly, and if the canoeist cannot use a sail frequently, purchasing an outfit is unduly expensive. A sailing rig may be constructed even by one of only moderate skill, who will devote a few hours to it. The specifications given, if carefully followed, will enable one to make a sailing rig as serviceable as a ready-made outfit, and at about one-half the cost.

The specifications and list of material for a sailing outfit suitable for a 16-ft. open canoe are as follows:

1 piece bamboo, 1¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, 6 ft. 10 in. long, for mast.

2 pieces bamboo fishing rod, 1 in. at butt, 10 ft. long.

1 piece, cedar or white pine, 5 ft. long, 4 in. wide, and ⁷⁄₈ in.
thick, for leeboard thwart.

2 pieces, cedar or pine, 28 in. long, 10 in. wide, and ³⁄₈ in. thick,
for mast thwart.

1 piece, cedar or pine, 27¹⁄₂ in. long, 3¹⁄₂ in. wide, and ³⁄₄ in.
thick, for mast thwart.

1 piece, cedar or pine, 5 in. long, 2¹⁄₂ in. wide, and 1 in. thick,
for mast step.

8 yd. unbleached cotton sheeting, 1 yd. wide, for making sail.

30 ft. ¹⁄₄-in. cotton rope, for halyard and main sheet.

4 brass lantern-board hooks, for clamping mast thwart and leeboard
thwart to canoe.

2 brass stove bolts, 3 in. long and ⁵⁄₁₆ in. diameter, with washers
and thumb nuts, for clamping leeboards at desired angle.

1 brass single-boom jaw for canoe, 2 in. long, for keeping boom on
mast.

3 brass screw eyes, 1¹⁄₂ in. long with ¹⁄₂-in. eye, one for halyard,
two for spars.

1 brass split ring, 1¹⁄₂ in., for fastening ends of spars together.

1 brass “S” hook, 1³⁄₄ in. long, for fastening ends of spars.

In converting the paddling canoe for sailing, it is desirable that it be unmarred, as far as possible. The rig described represents the result of experiments with various arrangements, and has been found to be safe and convenient. The original outfit has been in use for six years and will still serve for some time.

The lateen rig is best for an open canoe, because a shorter mast is required for the same sail area. An open craft is less suited for carrying sail than one which is decked fore, aft, and amidships. It is not safe to rig a canoe too heavily, and the rig described has been found to be well proportioned.

Bamboo is best for the mast, because it is lighter and tougher than a solid wood spar of the same dimensions, and is readily procured. Dealers in rugs use bamboo of 1¹⁄₂ to 2-in. diameter on which to roll carpets, and it may usually be purchased of them.

Cut the bamboo to a length of 6 ft. 10 in., and whittle a wooden plug, about 3 in. long, tapering it so that it will wedge firmly inside, taking care not to split the cane. Bore a small hole through the cane 2 in. from the top, plug it and fix a screw eye into the plug. Drive small brads through the cane into the plug to prevent the former from splitting. A brass ferrule fitted over the end of the bamboo will make a strong and neat finish.

The sail is made in the form of a triangle and measures 9 ft. on each side. It is best to have it sewed on a machine. The sail is bighted with parallel strips, or folds, ¹⁄₂ in. wide, spaced 6 in. apart, as shown at the left in the illustration. First cut the canvas to the approximate size and shape by laying the spars over it and marking the outline with a pencil. Next sew the separate widths together, lapping one edge over the other about ¹⁄₂ in., and sewing close to both edges. The bights or folds run at an angle and parallel with the loose ends of the leech of the sail. The sail should then be reinforced at the corners by sewing segments of cloth at these points. Along the edges which are to be lashed to the spars, fold over a strip of canvas and sew it to make a 1-in. hem. Run a ¹⁄₂-in. tape into the fold along the leech while sewing the hem. This tape is fastened to the spar at each end, to take up the slack caused by the stretching of the sail after use, thus preventing that bugbear of sailors--a flapping leech.

The mast thwart is made as shown at the right in the illustration, and has a hole cut in the center to fit the mast. It is also provided with two lantern-board hooks, one at each end, with which to clamp the thwart to the gunwales. The mast is supported at the bottom by means of the mast step, which is a block of wood, shaped as shown to give a neat appearance. It is fastened to the grating, or to the ribs if no grating is used.

The leeboard thwart is also shown in the sketch, at the right. The short upright ends are set at an angle so that they conform to the curve of the canoe and wedge the thwart into place immediately aft of the mast. The ends are grooved to fit the thwart and fastened with screws. A carriage bolt is fitted through each end piece and provided with a wing nut, which holds the leeboard in place on each side. The leeboards may thus be adjusted at the desired angle by fixing them with wing nuts. No dimensions are given, for it is obvious that they will vary on different styles and sizes of canoes. A finish in keeping with that of the canoe should be applied. Smooth all the work as carefully as possible with sharp tools and sandpaper it lightly. Three coats of spar varnish will give a satisfactory finish.

The sail is hoisted by running the halyard through the screw eye at the top of the mast, until the gaff spar is close to the mast top, as illustrated.

The boom jaw is fastened on the boom, with the open end 18 in. from the forward end of the boom. This will permit the forefoot of the sail to extend forward of the mast. By tying the halyard at various points along the gaff, the point of balance may be found. For the sake of safety the halyard should not be tied to the forward thwart, but run under it to the stern within easy reach of the canoeist. The main sheet should never be made fast, but the rope merely looped around the thwart and held in the hand or beneath the foot, so that it may be released quickly if a puff of wind should strike the sail.

Steering is done with a paddle. This method is more convenient than a rudder where the single sail is used. The paddle is always used on the lee side--away from the wind--and the wake keeps the blade close to the side of the canoe, without much effort on the part of the person guiding it. When turning about make the regular paddling stroke, but finish it by thrusting the blade of the paddle away from the canoe. This will tend to keep the canoe in its course, and the paddle will not be drawn across the wake, which would affect the headway of the craft.

The lower the weight is placed in a canoe, or boat, the greater will be its stability. Hence, in sailing a canoe, sit on the floor of the craft, and when turning about, turn against the wind and not with it. The experienced canoeist can shift his course readily, but the novice must be cautious, even in a moderate breeze. It would be well to sail in shallow water and to wear only bathing costume when learning to sail a canoe. When tacking and sailing close-hauled the leeboard is the most effective, but as the boards are thin both may be kept down without greatly reducing the speed. When running before the wind both boards may be raised to give the greatest speed.

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¶Paint may be readily removed from windows by applying a cloth dipped
in hot vinegar or acetic acid. This applied to brushes will soften
them.

By Stillman Taylor