Chapter XXV: Part I: A Twine Hammock

Cord hammocks may be made in two or more different ways, the knots being formed by the simple overhand tie, Fig. 1; the flat reef knot, Fig. 2; the Solomon’s knot, Fig. 3, or by the triple throw-over, Fig. 4; or they can be knotted by the process known as netting, Fig. 5, in which a special needle, or shuttle, is used.

In using any one of the first three methods of making the knots it is necessary to have cords arranged in pairs and long enough to reach from one end of the hammock to the other, allowing only sufficient length for the take-up in tying the knots and the spread of the meshes. The overhand knot is large, and the Solomon’s knot is a little unwieldy, but is considered more beautiful when tied. The flat reef knot is small, is easily tied and will not slip. The netting process has a good knot and has the advantage of a short single cord, as the meshes are made independently and the cord is carried on the netting needle.

It is a great advantage, when making a hammock with the simple overhand, the flat reef, or the Solomon’s knot, to loop all the pairs of cords at the center about a rod, Fig. 6--which may be any stick such as an old broom handle--knotting from the center toward each end, one side being tied, and then the other. When the first pairs are being tied, the opposite ends should be looped up together out of the way. Even half the length of a hammock makes a long cord to be drawn through each time a knot is tied, and each string can be wound about the fingers into a little bundle and secured with a half hitch, using the same cord, and left hanging, as shown in Fig. 7, allowing sufficient cord free to throw large loops in the tying, and to make about 10 additional meshes. About 3 ft. would be a good length to be left free.

It will be necessary to have 24 pairs of cords--48 cords in all--each 18 ft. long to make a hammock by the first two methods of tying the knots. Seine twine of medium-hard twist and 24-ply can be obtained from a store carrying sporting goods, and is about the best material to use for this purpose. When these pairs of cords are looped on the center rod, and the rod has been anchored to a wall, as shown in Fig. 8, begin by placing the mesh stick, or rather the mesh post, Fig. 9, between the first pair of cords, A and B, at the left end of the center rod, as in Fig. 8 and Fig. 6. The simple device illustrated in Fig. 9 is very useful for tying any one of the three first-described knots. The device needs no explanation other than the illustration. It will be seen that there are two sizes on the top of the post; the smaller is for the first time across only. The mesh post should be of convenient height for a person when sitting on an ordinary chair. One foot rests on the base as the tying proceeds, but there is no pulling over, as the tie draws both ways on the post, this also doing away with the pull on the center rod.

FIG. 2

FIG. 4

FIG. 3

FIG. 5

The Simple Overhand, Flat Reef, Solomon’s Knot, Triple Throw-Over, and Netting Ties]

The cord to the right, B, is taken in the right hand and thrown over the left cord A, Fig. 8, and is held by the left hand. The left cord A is then tucked down behind the right, as shown in Fig. 10. If the right cord goes over in making the first loop, the same cord B must also go over in the second throw, as in Fig. 11, in order to have a proper square knot that will not slip. The end of A is then tucked under B, as shown by the dotted lines. This makes a very serviceable knot for the hammock, but can be also used for other purposes. The knot is shown in Fig. 2. Draw it up tightly, very hard, for knotting is not worth much if it is not tied well.

In case the simple overhand knot is preferred, the mesh post is placed between the first pair as before, and cords A and B are brought to the front as in Fig. 12, but are carried parallel into a large loop that is thrown over as illustrated, then tucked up through as indicated by the dotted lines. The thumb and first finger of the left hand now slide up to the point P, while the right hand pulls up the loop as it nears the finish, the thumb and first finger crowding the loop down hard against the mesh post. The small part is used for the first row across. The knot formed is shown in Fig. 1.

FIG. 10

FIG. 7

FIG. 9

FIG. 8

FIG. 11

The Mesh Post Has Two Sizes on Its Upper End, the Smaller for Knotting the First Row of Meshes, and the Other for the Remaining Rows. This Illustration Also Shows the Manner of Tying the Knots]

After tying the first pair of cords using the knot preferred, slip the first mesh so made off the tying post and place the post between C and D, which is the next, or second, pair. Tie the second pair and pass on to the third pair, which is E and F. Continue moving and tying until all the 24 pairs of cords have been similarly knotted in their first mesh. The last knotting will be the twenty-fourth pair, which is represented by the cords marked Y and Z. Instead of tying cords of the same pairs on the return trip across, one cord Y of the twenty-fourth pair is tied with one cord X of the twenty-third pair, and the other cord W of the twenty-third pair is tied with the cord V of the twenty second pair, and so on across the series.

On the second row of tying, the post is first placed between cords Y and X and they are knotted together, but instead of tying about the small part of the post the larger size is used. After cords Y and X have been tied, cords W and V are combined. It will be seen that this is tying the pairs together instead of combining the two cords of the same pair. The third time across the combinations are the same as in the first row. The large mesh is used on all but the first row. The alternations of rows is continued until the cords are tied to within 2¹⁄₂ ft. of the end.

FIG. 13

Tying the Overhand Knot and How to Run the First and Second Rows Across]

Pull out the center rod, insert it in the second row of meshes, loosen the ends that were looped up and begin the knotting of the opposite ends of the cords. When both sides are completed to within 2¹⁄₂ ft. of the ends, the center rod is removed and inserted in the last row of meshes. Another simple device will be found efficient, which consists of a board, 30 in. long, three or more inches wide and 1 in. thick, with three nails driven in slanting, as shown in Fig. 14, to prevent the ring and rod from slipping off as the tying proceeds. One 2¹⁄₂-in. galvanized ring will be required for each end. The ring is attached to the single nail at the end with a string. This will be found better than just slipping the ring over the nail, as it is necessary to have a little more play in putting the cords through for the tying. The distance from the rod to the ring should be 2 ft. The tie is made in pairs as before, one cord going under and the other over the side of the ring, using the flat reef knot. There will be a few inches of ends remaining after the tie is made and these are brought back to the main body of the cord and wound with an extra cord used for that purpose. The winding is started by looping the end of the extra cord, or string, about the whole bundle of cord together with the ends, pulling tightly and tying securely with the flat reef knot. This is illustrated in Fig. 15. The winding should be about 1¹⁄₂ in. long where the turned-back ends are cut off. Each time the cord is wound about the bundle it should be looped through its own winding and drawn tightly. This is practically the buttonhole loop. To finish the winding the cord should be given a double looping through its own winding; then with an awl, or other pointed tool, work a way through the under side of the other windings so that the end may be brought out farther back and pulled tightly, to prevent unwinding when the pull comes on the hammock. Attach the ring to the opposite end in the same manner and the hammock is complete.

The edge can be bound the same as a tennis net, or a rope can be run through the outside meshes lengthwise, as desired. A very pretty effect can be obtained by knotting, in a similar manner to the body of the hammock, an apron fringe for the sides.

Homemade Section Liner

For the rapid and uniform hatching of cross sections this little device will be found to give results equaling most of the high-priced instruments that can be purchased. It consists of a hardwood block used in connection with a 45° triangle. The corners are cut to permit the triangle to slide the desired distance; then, by alternately sliding the triangle and block with the left hand, equal spacings can be drawn without measurements of any kind.

Two different spacings may be drawn with one block by reversing it and two blocks having a different location of the angles will give four spacings, which is about all the draftsman requires in ordinary practice. No alteration of the triangle is required with this device, and it requires but little skill to construct it.--Contributed by J. A. Shelly, Brooklyn, N. Y.

Tray Attachment for Developing Films

An ordinary tray can be used for film development, when there is no tank at hand, by the use of the attachment shown in the sketch. It consists of a strip of sheet metal, or tin, bent to fit under the tray and up on both sides to provide bearings for a roller. The roller is made of hard rubber and should be of such size that its lower surface will be under the developer in the tray. The film is drawn back and forth under this roller.

An Automatic Window Closer

The window closer consists of a weight, A, attached to one end of a cord, B, which runs through several pulleys and has its other end attached to a hook in the center of the window sash, as shown in Fig. 1. The weight A is held in an elevated position by a small trigger which is operated with an electromagnet.

The arrangement of the weight and its control is shown in Fig. 2. The latch C is held in a horizontal position by an extension on the arm D, which in turn is held by a latch, E. The latch C is mounted on the same supporting shaft as the arm D, and they are connected with a coil spring having the tension in such a direction that it holds the latch C down on the extension of the arm D. When the weight moves up through the box the latch C will rise and allow it to pass down beside it. The latch holding the lower end of the arm D may be released by means of an ordinary vibrating bell arranged so that its clapper will strike the extension F on the latch and thus cause its upper end to move from the engagement with the arm D. A small coil spring is attached to the arm D so that it will be returned to its vertical position when the weight has passed C and thus make it ready for the next operation without any adjustment except raising the weight and setting the clock.

FIG. 1

FIG. 3

The Window is Automatically Closed by a Weight at the Time Set on the Alarm Clock When the Key Closes the Electric Circuit, Causing the Magnet to Release the Latch]

A diagram of the electrical circuit is shown in Fig. 3, in which G represents the electromagnet to trip the trigger that supports the weight, and H the contact which remains open until the weight is raised to the upper position, when the spring J is forced against the spring K and closes the circuit. The circuit still remains broken until the contact L is closed by the key on the alarm clock, which is set in a vertical position between two springs representing the terminals of the wire. The contact H should be so located on the housing for the weight that it will be closed only when the weight is resting on the latch C. The circuit is then opened as soon as the latch C is released, and the clapper will stop vibrating.

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¶When a pencil becomes too short for the hand, apply paste to about 1
in. of the rubber end, roll on a sheet of paper about 6 in. long, and
almost all of the pencil can be used.

How to Make Hammocks

BY CHARLES M. MILLER