Chapter XXXII: Part II: A Netted Hammock (7)

Take an ordinary inexpensive watchcase receiver, drill a hole in the cover for a short piece of brass tubing, to make a gas connection, and then plug up the center opening with a cork, into which is tightly fitted a piece of ¹⁄₈-in. tubing. The upper end of this should be closed with a plug having a central opening about the size of a pin. Procure a small rectangular pocket mirror and remove the celluloid covering, and then, across the back, solder a piece of straight wire to form a vertical spindle, about which the mirror may be rotated. Connect any resistance, such as a magnet coil of 10 or 20 ohms, in series with an incandescent lamp, and then connect the receiver terminals to the ends of this resistance. In this manner an ideal alternating-current supply of a few volts to operate the receiver safely is secured. Turn on the gas only sufficient to produce a narrow pencil of flame, not over 1 in. long. Mount the mirror as shown, or hold the spindle between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand while rocking it back and forth with the right. Ordinarily only a streak of light will appear, but immediately upon turning on the current this streak will be broken up into a series of regular waves, flatter or sharper according to the speed with which the mirror is rocked. After carefully noting the wave form, connect the receiver with the primary of an ordinary medical coil, across the make-and-break, and note the marked difference in the waves.

By replacing the receiver with a block of wood having a circular depression, about 2 in. in diameter and ¹⁄₈ in deep, over which is pasted a disk of smooth paper, the waves set up by the human voice may be observed if the talking is done loudly and close to the disk. The gas connection in this case is made from the back of the block, as shown. As the several vowels are sounded, the characteristic wave from each will be seen in the mirror. It is also interesting to increase the pitch of the voice and note how much finer the waves become.

Homemade Screen-Door Check

An outside screen door causes considerable annoyance by slamming when exposed to the wind, even if it is equipped with a bumper. Nothing short of a door check will prevent this slamming, so I made a very simple pneumatic check for our door, which works entirely satisfactorily.

A discarded bicycle foot pump was procured and hinged to the casing over the door, as shown in the illustration. The hinge was made as follows: Two holes, A, were drilled through the stirrup, as near the foot plate as possible; two ordinary screw eyes were turned into the door casing at B, and two pins were passed through the holes in the screw eyes and the holes in the stirrup. This allows the pump to swing when the door is opened. The end of the plunger rod C is flattened and a hole drilled through it to receive the pin at the top of the bracket D, which is screwed firmly to the door.

The action of the pump when the door is opened can be readily understood. The check is adjusted very easily by the machine screw E, which controls the exhaust of the air when the door closes. The screw is turned into the hole in the base of the pump where the pipe was originally connected. One side of the end of the screw is slightly flattened to allow a better adjustment. The pump can be quickly removed by pulling out the upper pin in the hinge part.--Contributed by M. C. Woodward, San Diego, California.

Bushing Made of Brass Tip on Cartridge Fuse

In order to fasten a short piece of tubing in a socket which had become worn to a funnel shape, without having to tap the socket and put in a threaded bushing, it was fixed as follows: One of the brass tips on a spent cartridge fuse was cut off and one of its ends filed tapering. After trimming the fiber lining so that it would fit snugly over the tube, it was driven home. The combination of brass and fiber adjusted itself nicely to the shape of the worn socket and made a tight fit.

Opening Springs for a Tennis-Racket Clamp

When putting a tennis racket in a press, it is difficult to keep the press open to let the racket slip in. This can be easily remedied by simply putting a small coil spring around each of the four bolts, as shown. This will always open the press when the bolts are loosened.--Contributed by W. X. Brodnax, Jr., Bethlehem, Pa.

Magic-Paper Fortune Telling

At outdoor carnivals and fairs there is usually a fortune teller who uses a glass wand to cause one’s fortune to appear on a pad of paper. Anyone may perform this trick by observing the following directions.

Instead of a glass wand use a long, narrow bottle of glass. Dip a new pen into copper sulphate, diluted with six parts of water, and write out the “fortune” on a piece of paper. The writing, when dry, will not be visible. Next procure two corks to fit the bottle. An unprepared cork is placed in the bottle and the other is pocketed, after hollowing it out and inserting a small sponge soaked in pure ammonia.

The bottle with the cork is passed out for examination. The cork is casually placed into the pocket after it is returned by a bystander. A pad of paper is then proffered and an initial is placed on the pad of paper by the person whose “fortune” is to be told. The paper is rolled up, with the prepared side on the inside, and inserted into the glass bottle. The fumes of ammonia will develop the mysterious message. The trick can be repeated if several prepared sheets of paper are on hand, and always proves of interest in a party of young persons.

Common Mistakes in Model Making

BY H. J. GRAY

Models made as a pastime or for exhibition purposes should represent correctly the full-sized machine, not only as regards general design but also in the proportioning of parts, the finish, and the choice of materials. The satisfaction derived from the possession of a model is greater when it is truly representative. Study and careful measurement of the original are necessary to attain this result, and provide valuable experience in the application of correct mechanical principles.

The most conspicuous, though perhaps not the most frequent, errors made by amateurs are in the proportioning of the various parts. This usually arises from insufficient study of the original machine, and is often sufficiently glaring to attract the attention even of a casual observer. The foundation or base of a model stationary engine, for example, is often painted to resemble brickwork. This is correct, provided the spaces are proportioned so as to represent bricks and not three-ton slabs of granite.

Mistakes are made in the selection of pulley wheels, both as regards the character and the size of the pulley that would be suitable for the particular purpose.

The “cheese-head” or flat-head machine screw appears to have a peculiar fascination for the model maker, judging from the frequency with which it is misplaced. It is only necessary to consider what would happen in a full-sized machine if such screws were used for making joints in valve rods, cylinder covers, slide bars, for fixing bearing caps, and the like, to realize how completely such a defect mars the appearance of a model to a discriminating eye. Bolts, or, in some cases, studs and nuts, should be used to give an appearance of correct workmanship.

FIG. 3

FIG. 2

FIG. 4

Details of Correct and Incorrect Practice in Model Making: Fig. 1, Valve Rod Joined by “Cheese-Head” Screws, Wrong, and Joined by Joint and Pin; Fig. 2, Bearing Cap Fixed with Flat-Head Machine Screws, Wrong, and with Studs and Nuts; Fig. 3, Cylinder Cover Fixed with Flat-Head Machine Screws, Wrong, and with Studs and Nuts; Fig. 4, Representation of a Brick Foundation, Incorrectly on Side, and Correctly on End]

Many novices make a serious mistake in the character of the finish given to the various parts. This usually results through devoting insufficient attention to the method of manufacture adopted in engineering practice. Under the impression that a mottled appearance gives an ornamental effect, they will make a shaft end with a scraped finish. To the casual observer there would be nothing amiss, but a mistake of this kind would offend the trained eye of an engineer, because it is entirely unrepresentative. The object of scraping sliding surfaces is to obtain a greater degree of flatness by removing small inequalities. As the subsequent use of a file would only undo the work of a scraper, the surface is permitted to remain mottled, as left by the scraping tool. But the end of an engine shaft is not a sliding surface, and in engineering practice would be finished in a lathe.

Nickelplating is often resorted to in order to produce a brilliant and supposedly pleasing finish to the model of a casting. This is obviously wrong, for the actual casting--which might weigh tons--would be painted, and not electroplated.

Locomotive wheels or stacks of polished brass add to the appearance of a model only in the eyes of the uninitiated. Few persons would care to risk a railroad journey if the engine had brass wheels. Iron or steel is the correct material to use. Brass is also often used instead of iron for cylinders, connecting rods, and starting levers on models, or for steam pipes, which should be made of steel or copper.

In certain cases there may be unusual difficulties in using the correct material for a machine part made to a small scale. It is then permissible to use other material, provided some attempt is made to disguise the fact by means of an appropriate finish. Copperplating, for example, may be used to disguise some other material, if the parts should properly be made of copper. It is often convenient to make a model boiler of brass. It should not be polished but bronzed, to represent the iron or steel plates of a full-size boiler.

Take-Down Emergency Oars

Owners of sail or power boats will find the take-down oars shown in the sketch easily made and of value in an emergency far out of proportion to the space occupied in a boat. A pair of ordinary oars was cut as shown, and pipe fittings were attached to the ends to form a detachable joint. When knocked down the oars may be stored in a seat cupboard, or other convenient place.--Contributed by H. E. Ward, Kent, Wash.

How to Make Propeller Blades Quickly

Requiring a number of propeller blades for use in making models of windmills, and other constructions, I found that I could save much time and obtain a satisfactory set of propeller blades by using ordinary shoehorns of the same size. The small ends of the horns were flattened out so that they could be fastened to pieces of wood for bearings, and then hammered to the proper shape for cutting the air, or receiving the force of the wind.

Bench Stop

Serviceable bench stops may be made by grooving pieces of maple, or other close-grained, hard wood and fitting strips of clock spring into them, as shown in the sketch. The pieces must fit the holes in the bench top snugly, and the spring will then prevent them from slipping out. The end of the spring fastened to the stop should be annealed so that a hole for the screw may be drilled into it readily.--Contributed by Stanley Mythaler, Spring Valley, Minn.

How to Make a Good Putty

To make a good putty the following formula should be used: Mix equal parts of firmly ground whiting and white lead with enough linseed oil to make a thick liquid; add enough commercial putty to this to make the consistency of regular putty. This putty will not crack or crumble, and it costs very little to make. If desired, the commercial putty may be left out and enough whiting added to take up the liquid. The life of this putty is four times greater than a commercial putty.--Contributed by L. E. Fetter, Portsmouth, N. H.

Cupboard for Kitchen Utensils

The illustration shows a style of a cupboard in which kitchen utensils can be kept in an orderly manner without taking up a great deal of space. The cupboard is tall and narrow, and the interior face of each side is scored at even intervals with saw cuts, ¹⁄₄ in. deep. In the grooves are placed shelves, which are merely squares of galvanized iron. By placing the shelf in the proper grooves the space is adapted to the size of the utensil. The small floor space occupied allows the cupboard to be placed in the part of the kitchen that is most convenient.

A Diminishing Card Trick

FIG. 1

FIG. 3

Reducing the Size of a Playing Card While Holding It in One Hand]

A clever diminishing card trick may be played with a piece of paper made up as shown in the illustration. Show the audience the whole card, Fig. 1, then fold it halfway and show again, Fig. 2, then again, Fig. 3. If this is done quickly it will not be noticed. A piece of paper is used the size of a regular playing card, and an ace is made on one side. When it is folded over one side of the reduced size is made to show the same ace, then another fold is made and the smaller ace is made.--Contributed by Louis Waherer, Tiffin, Ohio.

Table Sockets for Electrical Heating Apparatus

The usual method of running a wire from a chandelier or wall bracket to a heating device on the dining-room table is inconvenient as well as unsightly. This I overcome by making a special narrow leaf to put in the extension top into which sockets are set flush for extension wires. These are connected to a floor socket, or a line can be run under the carpet or rug.--Contributed by Maurice Baudier, New Orleans, La.

Dressing for Fishline

A quick-drying dressing for fishlines may be prepared as follows: Mix equal parts of boiled linseed oil and gold sizing; apply this to the line in a moderately thick coat. Dressing which will not dry as rapidly but which will resist the water as well is made by melting together 4 parts of paraffin and 1 part of resin. Melt the paraffin in a deep metal vessel over a small fire, and add the resin after the paraffin has dissolved. Care must be taken not to permit the fire to come into contact with the mixture. Allow it to cool slightly and then coil the line in the vessel. Draw it through a piece of wet sponge held between the fingers. This will cool the mixture rapidly and the line may then be stretched and polished with a wet rag.--Contributed by A. E. Tetu, Ottawa, Canada.

Utensil Rack for Camp Fire

A compact, simple device for holding cooking utensils over a camp fire is shown in the sketch. It may be collapsed into a small bundle and is of light weight, factors which are important in camping equipment. The device consists of two sections of pipe, A, supported on rods, B, having eyes bent at their upper ends. The lower end of the supports is pointed and may be driven into the ground so as to spread the pipes more at one end than at the other, thus providing for large as well as small utensils.

Wheelbarrow as Tennis-Court Marker

Many home tennis courts are not provided with a marker, and the use of a wheelbarrow for this purpose has been found convenient. A can provided with hooks at its upper edge was attached to the front of the wheelbarrow, as shown in the sketch, and the lime mixture, very thin, poured into it. Holes were made at the lower edge of the can so that the liquid ran onto the wheel and was transferred to the court. The holes must be made large enough so that they will not clog quickly, and the mixture must be very thin. It is easy to cover the outline several times if necessary. Hence, to use a thin mixture will be found economical, rather than to waste time removing sediment from the spout.

Retouching Negatives for Printing

Portraits taken out of doors sometimes show unusually heavy shadows under the eyebrows and chin. The printing of these through the negatives may be altered by applying a little red or blue color on the glass side of the negative. Stippling the surface by contact with the texture of the skin also aids in removing the heaviness of such shadows.

Mat varnish, containing a small amount of iodine dissolved in it, and applied to the glass side of a negative, will cause much lighter prints than if the negative is permitted to remain with heavy shadows. The varnish will dry quickly, and it may then be scraped off carefully or removed with benzole from the parts of the negative which are not to be lightened. Care must be taken in scraping away the varnish in order to prevent scratches.

Hand-Operated Whirling Fan

The whirling fan illustrated is more convenient than a fan of the ordinary type, and may be made by a boy of only moderate mechanical skill. The materials necessary for its construction are easily available in the home. The sketch at the center shows the completed fan, and the smaller sketch at the right illustrates the method of operation. The details of construction are shown in the working drawings.

The wing of the fan is cut from a sheet of Bristol board, and is 6 in. long and 5¹⁄₂ in. wide. It is formed by gluing two pieces together, the upper end of the driving shaft being glued into place at the same time. The small sketch at the left shows the size and shape of the piece of wood into which the driving shaft is fastened at its upper end.

The driving rod, shown at the right of the larger sketch, is ¹⁄₈ in. in diameter and 9¹⁄₂ in. long. The flattened portions near the upper end are drilled to receive the ends of the cords which wind and unwind on the shaft at the top of the handles. A brace of similar wire is fixed near the middle of the handles so that they pivot on its ends when the lower ends of the handles are pressed together, as shown in the sketch at the right. The handles are of wood, ¹⁄₄ in. thick, ¹⁄₂ in. wide, an 6¹⁄₂ in. long. Their ends are rounded and slight notches are cut into the corners near the ends, to provide for the tying of the cords.

A wide rubber band, slipped over the handles near their upper ends, causes them to close at the top, and when the fan is in use this will reverse the rotation of the fan. It is necessary only to squeeze the handles inward, and the reverse action is repeated.

Photographing Electric Sparks

Electric sparks may be photographed with simple equipment, and the process offers a diversion from the common subjects for photography. The materials necessary are a spark coil and current source, a photographic plate, facilities for developing it, and a sheet of tin foil. The illustration shows a typical photograph of an electric spark, and the variety possible is unlimited.

The process, which must be performed in a dark room with a ruby light, is as follows: Over the mouth of a small glass bottle, partly filled with talcum powder, tie a piece of cheesecloth, to act as a sieve. Arrange the material on a table, the sheet of tin foil lying flat, and a photographic plate on top of it, coated side upward.

Spread a thin layer of the powder on the plate, through the sieve. Attach a needle to an electric wire and fix the other end of the wire to one of the secondary posts of the spark coil. Attach a second wire to the other post of the spark coil and to the sheet of tin foil. Care must be taken in handling the needle that only the insulated portion, where it is joined to the wire, comes in contact with the fingers, or a shock may result. Place the point of the needle near the middle of the plate and turn on the current, permitting it to produce a spark of not more than one second’s duration. If the exposure is longer than that the result will not be satisfactory. Wipe off the powder and develop the plate. If care has been taken in the process, a photograph similar to the one shown in the illustration will result.

* * * * *

¶Shoulder hooks fixed about a shop, so that handsaws may be placed on
them by the handle, will save damage to saws.

Cannon-Shell Dinner Bell

Being called to dinner by the stirring peal of a bell made of a cannon shell is a novelty in use in Toronto. The bell shown in the sketch was made of a 3-in. brass shell, and when struck with a gavel gives out tones that penetrate throughout a large house.

The cap piece was removed at A, and an eyebolt fastened in place with a nut on each side. The gong was suspended from a wall bracket made of a band of brass fastened to the wall.--Contributed by James B. Noble, Toronto, Canada.

Use for Old Magazines

Magazines are often thrown away because of the rapidity with which they accumulate. Since most readers care to save only certain articles, a good plan is to tear the magazines apart, removing the desired articles and binding them in a separate volume. If this is carefully and systematically done, and an index prepared, the volume will be of value and interest.

Flatiron Polisher

Housewives, and others who appreciate the need for a smooth surface on a flatiron, will find the polisher shown in the sketch a convenient aid in keeping their irons in proper shape.

A wooden block, about 4 in. wide and 6 in. long, was fitted with five thin patches of beeswax as shown in the upper sketch. The holes bored into the wood were made large enough to fit the wax, which may be purchased in large thimble-shaped pieces. A double layer of linen, or other strong cloth, was fitted over the side having the wax imbedded in it, and a piece of fine emery cloth was folded over the other side of the block. A band of sheet iron riveted together so as to fit snugly over the edges holds the cloth and emery cloth in place.

The flatiron may be polished by rubbing it on the emery-cloth side of the block and waxed slightly by rubbing it over the cloth side.

Clothespin-Basket Hook

To conveniently support a clothespin basket along the line on which the clothes are being hung, a wire support can be provided, bent to form a hook at both ends and the center shaped into a V-bend. With the basket supported by the two ends, the wire can be slid along the clothesline as required.--Contributed by N. R. Moore, Cherokee, Iowa.

* * * * *

¶Varnishing should as a rule be done in a room having a temperature
of 80° F., and in some instances 15° higher is desirable.

Leather Tire Patch

A leather patch fixed over a tire puncture with shellac will be found to give satisfaction and may be attached easily. Cut the patch somewhat larger than the puncture and thin out its edges with a knife. Melt flakes of shellac in a flame, fusing them, and rub the hot mixture on the patch and tire, smoothing it down quickly. Such a patch may be placed over a plug and will aid in holding it in place.--Contributed by Robert C. Knox, Petersburg, Fla.

A Perpetual Whirligig

Camphor is the motive power which drives the device shown in the illustration, and it will cause the whirligig to revolve for several days, or until the camphor is consumed.

The whirligig is made of a piece of cork, ¹⁄₂ in. square, with a needle stuck into each of its four sides. Smaller pieces of cork, to which pieces of camphor have been fixed by means of sealing wax, are attached to the ends of the needles. Care should be taken to keep the needles and cork free from oil or grease, as this will retard their movement. As soon as the device is placed in a dish of water it will start whirling and continue to do so as long as motive power is supplied. A small flag or other ornament may be attached to the center cork.

Testing and Caring for Files

To test a file hold it so that the light will be reflected sharply from the teeth and observe whether their edges are flattened and appear as white lines. If so, the file is dull and should be recut if of considerable size and value.

Files should not be thrown into drawers and mixed with other tools, but should be carefully set in racks or drawers for the purpose. A mechanic would not throw a straightedge into a drawer containing other tools, and a file should be given similar consideration, as every nick in the teeth impairs the efficiency of the file.

Files may be sharpened by dipping them into sulphuric acid, but care must be taken not to permit the acid to come into contact with one’s clothes or person. Water is used to wash off the acid.

Files should be provided with individual handles. This prevents injury to the hand of the worker and aids in the proper use of the file. Handles should be carefully fitted and be made of a size proportionate to the file. In removing a handle from a file, strike the handle at the end nearest the file, by sliding a piece of hard wood along the surface of the file, as the blow is struck with it. Do not use another file or metal object in thus removing a handle, as it will injure the latter.

Catching Large Fish with a Teaspoon

Teaspoons may be made into alluring trolling spoon hooks, of a size suitable for catching large fish, by the addition of hooks, as shown in the sketch.

Drill ¹⁄₈-in. holes near the end of the spoon handle, the tip of the bowl, and near the handle of the latter.

Procure three sets of triple hooks, a line swivel, and a strip of lead, about 1 in. long. Rivet one end of the swivel and the loop of one of the triple hooks into the hole of the handle. Wire the lower end of this triple hook to the handle and with the same piece of copper wire secure a second triple hook at the thin part of the handle. Drill a hole through the lead strip and rivet it, together with a third triple hook, into the upper hole of the bowl. Fix the lower end of this hook by binding it with copper wire, through the hole near the tip of the bowl.

This hook has been tested in the waters of Puget Sound and is a deadly lure for rock cod, and other fish weighing up to 12 lb. The famous barracuda and rock bass of the Catalina Islands have also been caught with it. By permitting the lure to sink to the bottom and bringing it up a yard or two with a quick jerk, it acts as a “jig” bait. It may also be used in trolling. Once a fish has struck, it is seldom able to escape.--Contributed by O. P. Avery, Los Angeles, Cal.

An Easily Made Counter

From unruled paper cut a piece, as shown at A in the sketch, and make slits parallel and evenly spaced with a sharp knife. Also cut six strips, similar to the one shown at B, to fit the slits cut in A. The strips are numbered as shown and inserted on the under side of A, and by pulling the strips as shown, one can count up the number of parts or keep tally on any game. By making more slits and using more strips very large numbers can be recorded.

* * * * *

¶Be sure to keep the screw and nut in the jaws of a drill chuck clean
and well oiled, to prevent broken screws.

To Uncork a Bottle with a String

A convenient method of uncorking a bottle, from which liquid is to be poured frequently, is to thread a strong string or cord through the cork, tying it in a loop, which remains at the opening of the bottle. The cork may be removed easily by drawing on the string. This is more satisfactory than the use of a corkscrew, as the latter frequently tears the cork.--Lee A. Collins, Louisville, Ky.

Wood Turning on an Emery Grinder

The experimenter often requires small turned-wood pulleys, circular bases for switches, etc. To produce these it is not necessary to have recourse to a wood lathe, if a good emery grinder is at hand. Simply clamp the grinder firmly to the workbench, remove the grinding wheel, and fasten on a block to serve as a faceplate. This may be held in place by the nut that holds the wheel and should be trued up with a small chisel when in place. A tool rest may be improvised by temporarily nailing one or more blocks of wood to the bench. The article desired should be first roughed out with a saw and then fastened to the faceplate with screws or brads, after which the actual wood turning will require very little time.

Three Bathroom Kinks

The devices for the bathroom illustrated may be made easily and contribute to the comfort, convenience, and, in the case of the fixed window pole, to the safety of the room. A wall curtain, A, placed on the towel rod, or hung on the wall beside the washbasin, is especially convenient in keeping the walls unsoiled by children who make use of the room and are likely to splash suds while washing. Double roller shades on the window, as at B and C, give light and privacy as well.

Poor ventilation in bathrooms occasionally causes asphyxiation and is often a menace. The permanent fixing of the window pole D makes it convenient to open the window, which operation is often neglected through fear of drafts from the lower sash and the lack of a pole. Fig. 2 shows the top of the pole P, provided with a screw eye, S, which is fastened to a metal strip, H.--D. L. Hough, Toledo, Ohio.

Prevents Soiling Goods after Oiling Sewing Machine

To prevent a sewing machine that has been oiled from soiling the material, the following is a good method: Tie a small piece of ribbon or cotton string around the needle bar near the point at which it grips the needle.

By Robert Baker]

Pigeon houses need not be eyesores, as is often the case, but may be made to harmonize with the surroundings, adding beauty to a dull spot, and even making the grounds of a home more attractive. The house described will accommodate 20 pigeons, and additional stories of the same type may be added to provide for more. Nearly all of the wood necessary may be obtained from boxes, and the other materials are also readily available at small cost. The construction is such that a boy handy with ordinary carpentry tools may undertake it successfully.

The house is constructed in general on principles used in buildings, having a framed gable roof, rough-boarded and shingled. The interior arrangement is original, being based on the Indian swastika or good-luck sign. While the construction is simple, it must be carried out systematically. The process outlined also follows in general the typical methods in building construction.

The foundation need not be considered, since the house rests upon a post, and the construction thus begins with the lower story. The floor and the ceiling are similar in construction, as shown in Fig. 1. In framing them into the lower story, as may be observed in Fig. 8, the cleats are placed below on the floor and above in the ceiling. The construction is identical, however. The cleats are fastened to the boards with screws, although nails, clinched carefully, may be used. The 4-in. hole at the center should be made accurately, so as to fit the shoulder portion at the top of the post, shown in Fig. 2. The latter may be cut of a length to suit; about 9 ft. will be found convenient. The notches in the top of the post are to fit the ridge pole and center rafters of the roof frame, as shown in Fig. 10. They should not be made until the house is ready for the roof boards.

The pieces for the compartments, as arranged on the floor in Fig. 3, are made next. Figs. 4 and 5 show the detailed sizes of these pieces, of which four each must be made. The sizes shown must be followed exactly, as they are designed to give the proper space for entrances and to fit around the 4-in. square hole, through which the post is to fit. The pieces marked A, B, and C, in Figs. 4 and 5, correspond to those similarly marked in Fig. 3.

The pieces are nailed together to form the swastika in the following manner:

Mark the pieces A, B, and C, as shown. Measure 4 in. from one end of each piece marked A, and square a pencil line across, 4 in. from the end. Arrange the pieces in pairs. Place one end of one piece against the side of the other piece in the pair, so that the pencil line is even with the end, permitting the 4-in. portion to project. Nail both pairs in this position. Then fit the two parts together to form a 4-in. square in the center, as shown in Fig. 3.

Fit the pieces C to the pieces B at an angle, as shown in Fig. 3, trimming off the projecting corners where the pieces are joined. Nail them together, and they are ready to be fixed to the end of the pieces A, already nailed. By nailing the joined pieces B and C to the end of the pieces A, as shown in Fig. 3, the swastika is completed. Fix it into place, with the center hole exactly over the square hole in the floor, by means of nails or screws driven through the floor.

Two small strips must now be nailed to the floor at each side of the swastika. They should be exactly 4¹⁄₂ in. long, and are to hold the slides, Fig. 9, which shut off the various compartments. The slides are shown hanging by chains in the headpiece of this article, and are shown in place in Fig. 8.

Fix the ceiling into place in the same manner, being careful that the square holes fit together, and that the cleats are on the upper side. Turn the construction over and fix into place the small strips for the slides, as was done on the floor.

The fixed screens, Fig. 6, and the doors, Fig. 7, are constructed similarly. They are built up of ¹⁄₂-in. wood, and vary in size to fit their respective places in the framework. Observe that the fixed screens are ¹⁄₄ in. higher than the doors, and that they are fastened between the ceiling and floor, bracing them. The wire grating is ¹⁄₂-in. square mesh, and is fixed between the pieces of the doors and the screens when they are built up.

The doors are shown secured by combination strap hinges, bent over the baseboard. Plain butts may be used and the lower portion of the hinge covered by the baseboard, a recess being cut to receive the part covered. In the latter instance the doors should be fixed into place immediately after the screens are set. Catches and chains may then be placed on the doors. Next nail the baseboards into place. They are 2¹⁄₂ in. wide and may be mitered at the corners, or fitted together in a square, or butt, joint. The latter joint may be nailed more readily.

The slides, shown in Fig. 9, may now be made and fitted into their grooves. The handles are made of strips of band iron, drilled for screws and bent into the proper shape. It is important that the slides be constructed of three pieces, as shown, so that they will not warp or curve from exposure. The main piece is cut 7³⁄₄ in. long, and the strips, ¹⁄₂ in. square, are nailed on the ends.

The construction of the framing for the roof should next be taken up. This probably requires more careful work than any other part of the pigeon house, yet it is simple, as shown in Fig. 10. Note that the rafters are set upon a frame, or plate as it is called, built up of pieces 3 in. wide. It should be made ¹⁄₄ in. wider and longer on the inside than the ceiling board, so as to fit snugly over it. The joints at the corners are “halved” and nailed both ways. This gives a stronger structure than butting them squarely and nailing them. The end rafters should be fitted in before fixing the others. It is best to make a diagram of the end of the roof framing on a sheet of paper, or a board, and to fit the rafter joints in this way before cutting them. The rafters are then nailed into place.

The “rough boards” to cover the rafters may now be nailed down. They are spaced ¹⁄₂ in. apart so as to permit thorough drying, as is done in larger buildings. They project 2 in. beyond the ends of the plate frame, supporting the rafters. A ¹⁄₂-in. strip is nailed over the ends to give a neat finish. The roof may be shingled, or covered with tar paper, or any roofing material.

Nail a 1-in. strip under each end of the roof and nail the gable ends into place. One gable end is provided with a door, as shown, and the other has an opening fitted with a wire screen of the same size as the door.

The gable story rests on the lower story, and the notches in the top of the post should fit snugly to the ridge and center rafters, as shown in Fig. 10. This will aid in supporting the house firmly. If additional stories are added it would be well to place a post at each corner of the house. The upper story may be removed for cleaning, or for transporting the house.

FIG. 2

FIG. 3

FIG. 4

FIG. 5

FIG. 6

FIG. 7

FIG. 8

FIG. 10

The House Accommodates 20 Pigeons; Additional Stories may be Added. Fig. 1, Floor and Ceiling; Fig. 3, Arrangement of Compartments; Fig. 8, Lower Story Assembled Ready for Roof Story; Fig. 10, Framing of the Roof; Fig. 11, Side View, Showing Spacing of Roof Boards; Fig. 12, End View, Showing Trim and Door on Gable End

FIG. 9

FIG. 11

FIG. 12]

The post should be sunk into the ground about 2¹⁄₂ ft. and set into a concrete foundation, if convenient. This will insure a more nearly permanent as well as a more rigid support. Care should be taken that the post is set plumb and this can be accomplished if a plumb bob is used. The post should be braced to keep it vertical, particularly if a concrete foundation is poured and tamped around it.

The construction should be painted two coats, inside and out, of a color to harmonize with buildings or other surroundings.

The cost of building the house shown in the illustration was $3.50 and by using tar paper for the roof and discarded wire mesh, hinges, and other fittings, this may be reduced considerably.

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¶In matching molding into corners it is often difficult to make miter
joints. The molding may then be “coped” together by matching the end
of the piece to be joined to it with the curves or surface of the
molding. A coping saw is used in sawing the irregular end.

Roses Tinged Blue by Chemicals

Roses may be colored without any detrimental effect by placing their stems in a solution of 100 cubic centimeters of water, 2 grams of saltpeter, and 2 grams of an aniline dye. A centerpiece of roses colored to represent the national colors was made in this way and proved very effective as a table decoration. A convenient way to color the flowers is to place their stems in a test tube containing the mixture.--Contributed by Chester Keene, Hoboken, N. J.

Making Photographic Trays

Serviceable trays for use in developing and printing photographs may be made quickly of cardboard boxes of suitable sizes. Where one is unable to transport readily a full photographic equipment these trays will prove convenient as well as inexpensive. They are made as follows:

Procure boxes of proper sizes and see that they have no holes or openings at the corners. Melt paraffin and pour it into the box, permitting it to cover both outside and inside surfaces. If the paraffin hardens too rapidly the box may be heated and the work completed.--Contributed by Paul A. Baumeister, Flushing, N. Y.

Camp Lantern Made of a Tin Can

Campers, and others who have need of an emergency lantern, may be interested in the contrivance shown in the sketch, which was used in preference to other lanterns and made quickly when no light was at hand. It consists of an ordinary tin can, in the side of which a candle has been fixed. A ring of holes was punched through the metal around the candle and wires were placed at the opposite side for a support. The glistening interior of the can reflects the light admirably.--Contributed by F. H. Sweet, Waynesboro, Va.

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¶Interior woodwork may be made proof against ordinary flame by
coating it with silicate of soda, known as water glass.

Sidecar for a Parcel-Delivery Bicycle

BY P. P. AVERY

Quick delivery of small packages within a two-mile radius can be accomplished with a bicycle by a sturdy boy. An ordinary bicycle is used, preferably one with coaster brake and mudguards. Iron braces, ¹⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₄ in., are shaped to make the framework, and the ends are looped to fasten around the frame of the bicycle and the supporting fork of the third wheel. This wheel is a bicycle front wheel with a fork. A mudguard on the third wheel is desirable. Make the iron parts as detailed, and fasten them into place. The body is made of ⁷⁄₈-in. wood, preferably oak. The upper portion of the body is cut to receive the top brace, which is not in the way in loading or unloading the packages. Fasten the box with ¹⁄₄-in. carriage bolts, using a spring washer under the nut wherever a joint is made between wood and iron. A canvas cover can be cut to fit the top and secured at one end only, with three catch knobs on the sides and corresponding eyelets in the canvas, keeping the dust and rain from the interior of the body.

It is a good plan to stiffen the body with corner braces, using ¹⁄₈ by ³⁄₄-in. band iron. The floor of the body should be strongly fastened, tongue-and-groove boards being used, and the side corners should be fitted with iron braces at the bottom. The body may be extended farther over the rear, if more loading space is required.

One coat of priming and one of paint finishes the box, and with the name of the merchant on the front and rear, the whole makes a neat advertising feature. Regarding the selection of a bicycle, since great speed is not essential, the lower the gearing is, the easier it will be to propel the load, and for ordinary work, where only small grades are covered, a gear of about 65 will be found efficient.

Handy Use for Adhesive Tape

Adhesive tape is useful in the shop and for the home mechanic, for many purposes: to mend broken handles temporarily; to bind up a cut finger; to prevent a hammer or ax handle from slipping in the hands, by applying tape around the handle; for making a ferrule for an awl, chisel, etc.; around the nail set it will keep that tool from jarring the hand; around a lead pencil in the vest pocket as a guard.

A Toy Machine Gun That Fires Wooden Bullets

For use in the mimic battles which most boys like to stage in this war time, an interesting mechanical toy that a boy can easily make of materials picked up in the workshop, is a machine gun having a magazine for wooden bullets, and which can be made as a single or a double-barrel gun. The construction of the single-barrel arrangement is detailed in the sketch and the modification for a double-barrel gun is shown in the smaller diagram. It is a duplicate of the first type, suitably mounted as shown. The gun is fired by turning the crank on the wheel and the bullets can be quickly replaced in the magazine at the top.

The support for the gun is made of wood and braced strongly at the base. The gun proper is set into the top of the vertical piece, as shown, and the magazine, which is bent from a piece of tin to the shape detailed in the sectional view, fits on top of the breach of the gun. The hammer, which drives the bullets, is made of a piece of stiff wire bent to the shape shown. The lower curved end is connected to a small nail set on a block at the shaft of the wheel. To fire the gun, the hammer is drawn back by contact with the small nails set into the side of the wheel. As the wheel is turned, the nails grip the hammer and then suddenly release it, driving out the lowest bullet each time. The bullets are piled in the magazine, as shown in the detailed view at the right, where the rear view of the gun barrel is indicated.--Edward R. Smith, Walla Walla, Washington.

Using Plate Holder as Printing Frame

A cumbersome part of a commercial photographer’s equipment when “on the road” is his set of printing frames. Amateur photographers who have cameras using plates of more than one size find these frames an expensive part of their outfits. A method that is practical and inexpensive for these requirements in many cases, is as follows: Place the sensitized paper in the plate holder with the emulsion side up. Then put the plate in the holder in the same way as if about to expose it in a camera, but with the emulsion side down, so that the sensitized side of the paper and the emulsion side of the plate are in contact. The paper and plate are thus held in close contact without the use of springs, as in the regular printing frames. The plate and paper can be removed by pressing the spring catch at the bottom of the holder, and the plate is not easily moved while in place.--Francis W. Clinton, Brooklyn, New York.

* * * * *

¶Leaks in garden hose may be repaired by wrapping several layers of
adhesive tape over the break, lapping the edges carefully.

Wire Clips Weight Paper in Typewriter

Three wire paper clips linked together make a good weight for typewriter sheets that keep rolling or blowing back over the carriage, into the operator’s way, in a breezy office or where a fan is not properly stationed. They may be quickly applied to the end of the sheet, or batch of paper and carbon sheets, and removed as easily, saving time and annoyance.--H. P. Roy, Kansas City, Mo.

Chain Weight Prevents Whipping of Flag

A length of chain, sewed into a hem at the lower edge of a flag makes an inconspicuous and effective weight to prevent whipping of a flag suspended from a horizontal staff. A piece of cord can be threaded through the links of a chain to prevent it from rattling, if necessary.

Poultry-Fence Construction Economical of Netting

Not wanting to put a high poultry netting on my fence to keep my poultry at home, I devised the method shown, and was thus enabled to use 24-in. wire instead of 48-in., thereby effecting a saving, as well as not marring the appearance of the fence. Chickens will not attempt to fly over this wire but once or twice, as they endeavor to alight on the pickets of the fence instead of the wire, and consequently are thrown back by striking the wire. The wire should be supported at each post, as shown in the sketch.--Roy H. Poston, Flat River, Mo.

A Fort Built of Snow Blocks Made in Box Form

What boy does not enjoy a regular snowball fight--a battle, in fact--especially when he has a fort of his own building to defend, and his friends have one which he wants to capture? A way to build a snow fort that will not crumble easily when the enemy charges it is to pack the snow into a box form and build the structure of the snow blocks, as shown in the photograph. Portholes can be provided and when the snow melts slightly, and freezes again, a very solid wall results. The form for the block, as detailed in the sketch, is made of a box, arranged so that it is hinged at one corner and has a catch at the corner diagonally opposite. The form is set on a wooden board and when the snow is packed in solidly, the catch is opened and the form lifted away from the block. It is then carried into position and another block made on the same board. Several boards are handy in making the block quickly.--H. S., Chicago, Ill.

* * * * *

¶In applying varnish over an old wood surface, or on new wood that
has become soiled, care should be taken to remove all traces of oil
or grease with benzine.

Model Steam Tractor Made by Boy

Boys, and others who like to make models, may be interested in a small steam tractor I designed and built of scrap materials around the farm shop. I used only the ordinary tools on hand in such a place. The steam engine and tractor run smoothly, and the engine propels the tractor just like a large machine of this kind. The tractor is 28 in. long and 14 in. high, and the boiler holds 1¹⁄₄ gal. The bore of the cylinder is ⁷⁄₈ in. and its stroke 1³⁄₄ in. It was made from an old iron window weight. I use wood and coal to fire the boiler, and steam can be got up in a few minutes.--Albert H. Bennington, Park River, N. D.

Toboggan Made of Old Buggy Shafts

A method of making a strong toboggan sled by nailing a suitable bottom over sections cut from old buggy shafts, as shown in the sketch, can be adapted easily for use with poles of about the same size. They can be steamed and bent at the ends and the construction otherwise made as shown. The shafts were cut to the length indicated, the curved front end being sawed off. The bottom was carried up around the curved rear end, and a strong bracing strip was bolted across them. One-half-inch rope with leather loops provided handholds, and was also used as a brace at each side of the front of the sled. Twisted wire may also be used for this purpose. Cushions of the usual type can easily be made for the toboggan.

Bicycles Driven as Three-Wheel Tandem after Breakdown

On a bicycle trip, when about five miles from town, the front axle of my partner’s bicycle broke, and as neither of us wanted to walk, we had to find some way of getting us both home. We removed the front wheel from one of the bicycles, and set the front fork on the rear axle of the undamaged machine, as shown in the sketch. The axle was just long enough so that the sides of the fork could be bolted securely. By careful riding we made the distance to town with only the slight inconvenience of my partner having to carry the extra wheel on his back--J. F. G., Mountain Grove, Mo.

* * * * *

¶Do not touch the inner surface of a tent or shelter in the rain, as
the water will drip from the spot touched.

Test Exposures for Bromide Enlargements