Chapter XXVIII: Part II: A Netted Hammock (3)

The desk board and two library shelves should then be fitted, and fastened in place with blind screws through the sides, or with cleats from the inside. For a neat, finished appearance, the back boards should be carefully joined, exposing no cracks, and fastened with nails driven into the various shelves. The upper rail, resting on the bookcase, and the lower rail, forming part of the drawer support, can then be fitted and secured to the sides with blind screws, either from the outside or diagonally through the rails from the inside. Drawer slides are fitted in place flush with the top edge of the lower rail, and fastened to the sides with screws.

In making the drawer, the usual construction should be followed. The front piece should be rabbeted near its lower edge to fit the drawer bottom, and notched ¹⁄₂ in. at each end to fit the sides. The bottom and end pieces fit into grooves cut in the sides. Suitable drawer pulls or knobs should be provided.

For the doors of the bookcase, the best construction would be to tenon the rails into the stiles about ¹⁄₂ in. The glass panel fits in a notch, ¹⁄₂ in. deep and ¹⁄₄ in. wide, cut around the inside ledge of the door, and is held in position with molding strips. In order to give the door an appearance of being divided into four parts, mullions, or cross strips, are fitted on the outer side of the glass flush with the rails and stiles, and fastened to them with brads. The doors are attached with butt hinges.

In making the desk door, a specially selected board should be used, as the finished appearance of the desk will greatly depend on this. The ends and sides should be perfectly squared, and the lower or hinge end cut beveled corresponding to the edge of the desk board. Butt hinges are used to secure it in position, and hinged brackets or chains provided to support it when open. When closed, it rests against a strip fastened to the lower side of the bottom bookcase shelf.

In arranging the pigeonholes it is best to have the inside boards rest on the desk board, so that, when desired, the entire arrangement of the drawers and shelves may be withdrawn easily. When thoroughly sandpapered and finished to taste, a serviceable, handy and attractive piece of furniture is obtained, suitable for either office or home.--Contributed by James Gaffney, Chicago.

Automatic Stop for Spring-Roller Curtains

It frequently occurs, in adjusting spring-roller curtains, that the cord slips through the hand and the curtain not only winds up to the top but continues until the spring has spent its force, and the curtain and cord are rolled up out of reach. It is then necessary to use a chair, or stepladder, to readjust it. All this trouble and annoyance can be avoided if a small hollow rubber ball is obtained, and holes punched through so it may be threaded on the curtain string, and tied close to the stick. Should the curtain slip away with this attachment, the ball will jam up against the window frame, preventing further winding up.--Contributed by T. B. Lambert, Chicago, Ill.

Spoon Attachment to Prevent Child from Using Left Hand

To discourage a child from using a spoon in the left hand, a projection was made of a piece of brass, filed into the shape shown in the illustration. After the projection was attached, the entire spoon was plated. This makes it impossible to use the spoon in the left hand, as the projection will prevent the bowl from entering the mouth.--Contributed by W. H. Hutchinson, Hamilton, Ont.

A High Chair

Where a high chair is not at hand or available, an ordinary solid-bottom kitchen chair can be used instead, if rigged up as shown in the illustration. The chair is reversed, and the back is used as one support, while two pieces of wood fastened to the sides form the other. A seat board is fastened to the upper side rounds, and a table board to the two lower side rounds. A small piece is nailed to the two back posts for a back.--Contributed by J. S. Fritzen, Minneapolis, Minn.

Blower for a Fireplace

Having considerable trouble with a smoky fireplace when trying to start a coal fire in the basket grate, I decided to make a blower of sheet iron. A blower covers the upper part of the fireplace and forces the draft through the basket grate until the fire gets a good start, then it can be removed. Before making the blower I again had trouble one morning when the chimney would not draw, and the whole room became filled with smoke; I then grabbed a newspaper and held it up against the upper part of the fireplace like a regular blower. To my surprise the suction of the chimney held the newspaper in place without any outside aid. In a few minutes the fire was roaring, and best of all, when it became hot, the newspaper caught fire and was sucked into the flames. This in reality became an automatic blower, as it removed itself when no longer needed.--Contributed by Charles F. Kopp, Amite, La.

An Ironing-Board Wall Fastening

One of the most useful and convenient articles for a household is an ironing board, one end of which is fastened to the wall by means of hinges to allow it to be folded up against the wall when not in use. Wood brackets are preferable to the metal hinges, as there must be some little space between the wall and the board to allow for the thickness of the covering. The brace which extends from near the end of the board to the base of the wall is best hinged with canvas strips, as they will last better than any other material for this joint. The hinges should be put in place when the board is in a vertical position to allow the brace to go in position without straining.--Contributed by J. H. Beebee, Rochester, N. Y.

Oars Flattened to Make Rowing Easier

When rowing a small boat, we were bothered by the turning of the oars in the locks, so that the blade of the oar was not in proper position to take the water. We overcame this by planing off slightly one side of the oar, so that when this surface was against the lock, the blade was in the correct position to catch the water. It is unnecessary to grip these oars tightly, as they fall naturally into place and save the novice a great deal of trouble. In locks where this method is undesirable, the handgrips may be cut as a guide.--H. D. Burnside, Madison, Wis.

A One-Piece Bracelet Cut from a Calling Card

A trick that will amuse and interest persons both old and young can be performed with a calling card, cigarette paper, or other similar material, cut with a scissors or knife, as indicated in the diagram. The card is shown, and the performer announces that he will pass his hand through the card, making a bracelet of it. He will, of course, be challenged, and proceeds as follows: He folds the card lengthwise and cuts through two thicknesses from 1 to 2, 3 to 4, etc.; then opens the card, and cuts from 1 to 13. By stretching the paper, as shown in the sketch, the hand may be passed through the card readily. The spectators are soon trying to duplicate the trick.--R. E. Jones, Velasco, Texas.

Device for a Finger Tug-of-War Game

Considerable pleasure and pastime was afforded by the tug-of-war game which I made. Two contestants, one at each end, take hold of the rollers with their forefingers and thumbs and endeavor to move the pointer to their respective ends. The game interests persons of various ages, and they all want to try it.

The device should be made strongly to stand the wear on it. The top and bottom are boards, ¹⁄₂ by 8 by 24 in., and four blocks, 3 in. high and 2¹⁄₂ in. square, are fastened between them at the corners with screws. The rollers are set in the blocks, and held by small nails passing through them and set against the inner faces of the blocks. The pointer is made of a strip of brass, bent to the shape shown. Cords extend from the pointer inside of the box and are tied to the rollers.--James E. Noble, Kingston, Ontario, Can.

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¶In applying a white paint over a dark, or mottled, surface, tint the
first coat with a little black, making it gray; then the next coat
will show solid white.

Window Frame and Table for Dark Room

BY JOSEPH LIMBRUNNER

The amateur photographer often has a poor dark room, sometimes made worse by the use of an evil-smelling lamp. If he wishes to use a room that has daylight, he finds it difficult to convert the room quickly for his purposes, especially if he desires to make use of the daylight for his work. Under these conditions, the arrangement described in this article was devised, and proved so satisfactory that I pass it on to the host of amateurs who find satisfaction in making part of their equipment. The table and window frame in place are shown in Fig. 1. The table is removed by withdrawing the rod, and bending up the hinged legs. The frame and window covering are removed by releasing the four small hooks. Ruby, yellow, or ground glass may be inserted in the sliding frame, as required, nearly all of the light being shut out, or light admitted without a glass, by sliding the frame.

FIG. 2

FIG. 3

FIG. 4

With This Sliding Frame and Folding Table, the Work of the Photographic Dark Room can be Done by Daylight in the Home Bathroom]

The general arrangement of the parts is shown in Fig. 2. The dimensions are suggestive only, being suited to a small window in a bathroom, where the equipment was installed. The table is merely a board top supported by hinged legs, which are braced by a removable round wooden rod. A frame, C, as detailed in the section at A-B, Fig. 3, is fitted closely in the window casing. It is covered with heavy cardboard, tacked on. The ways J, in which the frame for the glass slides, are fixed to the lower rail of the frame C, and to a crossbar at its middle. A 5 by 7-in. opening is cut in the cardboard to admit the light, as shown in Fig. 2. Holes D are bored in the ways to receive pins which hold the frame at various positions, as indicated by the stop holes E, Fig. 4.

The sliding frame is detailed in Fig. 4. It consists of a back frame of ¹⁄₂-in. wood, sliding in the grooves of the ways J, and a frame of 1-in. stuff, mounted on the front of it. The openings may be made to suit the size of plate to be used, 5 by 7-in. openings being indicated. The openings are provided with rabbeted edges, as indicated by the width G, and the height H, in which frames of light weight, for the 5 by 7-in. glass plates, are fitted. The frames may be made, or plain, cheap picture frames may be used. The sliding frame is raised and lowered by means of the handle F. The cardboard covering the larger frame should be painted a dull black, and the wooden parts may be shellacked in the natural color.

When developing films or plates, the frames with the red and yellow glasses should be inserted in the sliding frame, and held in place by turn buttons. The red glass will ordinarily be satisfactory for developing, but on very bright days, with the sun shining directly on the glass, a layer or two of “post-office” paper is placed over it. The yellow glass may be used when fixing, and other work requiring a subdued light, but not when developing is done. For printing, put in the yellow and the ground glasses, the latter admitting sufficient light for the purpose. To use the dark room occasionally in the evening, I set a lamp on a well-protected shelf outside of the opening in the cardboard, and proceed as in the use of daylight.

Non-Blow-Out Cigar and Pipe Lighter

“It is a poor Irishman that cannot light his pipe when the wind is blowing,” but the sketch shows a device that will make a “Paddy” out of anyone, with a great saving of matches. It is made from a small piece of brass tubing, or drawn shell, ¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, and about 1¹⁄₂ in. long. The open end is placed in the bowl of the pipe or over the end of the cigar, a match inserted through the slot, and a quick stroke on the threaded portion ignites the match. The small holes provide air. The top is soldered in place.--James H. Rodgers, Montreal, Canada.

Electric Counting Glass for Thread Fabric

The intelligent housewife and shopper, as well as persons professionally interested in the structure and quality of woven fabrics of various kinds, can make good use of a counting glass for close examination of such material. In its simplest form the device consists of a cigar box with a ground-glass top and a small electric light inside. Where larger pieces of goods are to be examined a small table with wooden legs and wooden frame for the glass may be made.

The diagrams at A and B represent the threads making up the cloth as stretched on the rollers of a loom. The lengthwise threads, or warp, are shown at A, and the cross threads, or weft, at B. By magnifying the material with a glass exposing an area of ¹⁄₂ or 1 in. square, the threads may be counted or closely examined and the quality determined. This also enables one to identify goods as being the same.--F. Ball Pinkus, La Crescenta, California.

* * * * *

¶An inexperienced workman broke eight curved window panes on a lake
steamer by attempting to cut them on the inside, instead of on the
outside of the curve, in fitting the glass.

Clock Device to Record Time of Appointments and Other Events

An ordinary clock, fitted with an electrical device to record the length of telephone conversations or appointment hours, or indicate when a door is opened, is shown in the illustration. The record is made by the hands in contact with brass rings attached to the face of the clock, the front of the rings being covered with white paper, dipped in a chemical, on which black dots are caused to appear, at each contact. By examining the dots and noting the items corresponding to them on a memorandum, the length of conversations, etc., may be observed.

Two rings of ¹⁄₁₆-in. brass, one within the other, and having side arms, are mounted on the front of the clock, as shown in the illustration. The ring on arm A should be slipped under both hands, and should have spring enough to hold it in contact with the small clock hand. The ring fixed to arm B must be in contact with the large hand, but must be some distance from the small hand and the smaller ring, so that they will not come into contact when the hands cross each other. An offset in the arm A, and a piece of mica insulation, are provided where the larger ring crosses the bar A. On the surface of each ring, between it and its respective hand, is glued a piece of white paper, cut to conform with the ring, but ¹⁄₁₆ in. larger, so as to extend over the outer edge of the brass rings. The rings of paper are saturated in a solution of potassium chloride and permitted to dry, before being placed on the brass rings.

A high-tension current, passing through the coil D, enters the arm A, passes to the small hand, to the large hand, and out at the terminal on arm B. Black dots will appear on the prepared paper at the position of the hands, when the contact is made.

The primary wires E and F may be attached to a doorbell or to a contact on the door, indicating on the prepared paper the length of time the door was held open, as well as the time at which it was opened. The arms A and B must be well insulated from one another. For greater accuracy in recording time, to within ¹⁄₂ minute, prepared paper dials, with hour and minute marks, coming into contact with the hands at small projections punched in the hands from their upper surfaces, should be used. An ordinary secondary coil from an automobile may be used, and if the clock has a wooden case, the arms may be fastened directly to it.

Practical Memorandum for Odd Jobs

Not infrequently home or shop mechanics find that trifling odd jobs are neglected repeatedly, simply because they are not of sufficient consequence to warrant getting out the tools or materials necessary for the work. A convenient method of insuring that these small jobs are not overlooked is to make a memorandum of them and place it with the tools required for the work. For instance, if a small job of soldering is to be done, a memorandum placed with the soldering outfit will not easily be overlooked, and the work may be done while the coppers are hot for use in a larger job. Likewise with small painting jobs. Sometimes only a brushful of paint is needed and one does not care to mix a small quantity of paint nor clean the brush afterward. A memorandum of the job makes this unnecessary.--John Hoeck, Alameda, California.

A Homemade Vulcanizer

Tire tubes may be vulcanized satisfactorily in the home garage, or even on the road, with the simple device shown in the sketch. It is made as follows: Obtain a piece of sheet iron, ¹⁄₄ in. thick, 3 in. wide, and 5 in. long. Drill a ¹⁄₄-in. hole at the middle of each end. Fit a strip of similar stock, 1 in. wide and 5 in. long, to the first piece with bolts, as shown. Procure a tin cover without embossing on the top, such as is used on baking-powder cans. Cut several disks to fit in the cover, from heavy cardboard; soak them thoroughly in a saturated solution of saltpeter, and dry them. Wrap each disk in oiled paper, and keep them in a water-tight container.

To use the vulcanizer, clean the area around the hole in the tube with sandpaper, and cut a piece of rubber of the proper size to fit over it. Slip one of the prepared cardboard disks into the tin cover, and clamp the cover and tire with patch into the iron frame, as shown. Touch a lighted match to the cardboard disk, which will burn rapidly, but without flame, supplying sufficient heat to vulcanize the tube.--Thomas W. Benson, Hastings on Hudson, N. Y.

Rudder for a Toboggan

Learning to steer a toboggan by means of the foot dragged behind it is an interesting feature of the sport, but this method is dangerous at times and results in much wear on shoes and clothes. The device shown in the illustration makes this method of steering unnecessary and gives the rider accurate control over the sled. It consists of a strip of ¹⁄₄ by 1-in. iron curved to form a rudder at one end and twisted at the middle to provide a flat piece for pivoting it on the rear cleat of the sled, as shown in the working drawing below. A handle is fastened to the front end of the strip with bolts. The rudder should not be curved too deeply or it will cut through the snow and be damaged, or ruin the track.--H. B. Mclntyre, Waterville, Me.

A Window Refrigerator

A simple method of constructing a window refrigerator that will not obstruct the light is shown in the illustration. A box was made the width of the window and was fitted to slides fastened outside the window on the side of the house. The exposed sides of the box were inclosed completely and the inner side was provided with two sliding doors. A handle was fitted to the side of the box so that, by reaching out of the window, the box could be drawn in front of the opening easily. Several shelves were fitted into it and the materials stored were not easily molested. Trunk casters attached to the bottom of the box improved the action on the lower rail.--Hubert Kann, Pittsburgh, Pa.

Toy Paper Glider Carefully Designed

A paper glider is an interesting and useful toy that can be made quickly; it may be used out of doors, but occasions when weather conditions make it necessary to remain indoors are especially good for this form of pastime. The glider shown in the sketch was worked out after considerable testing. With a toss it travels 20 to 30 ft., on a level keel, with a message slipped behind a pin, as shown in the upper sketch. The inventive boy may devise many play uses for the glider in tournaments, competitions, and for “military” flights, in which the “drivers” of the devices may “annihilate armies.” Practical use of the toy was made in a series of air-current tests.

The glider is made as follows: Fold a piece of paper, 10 by 15 in., lengthwise, and mark the outline shown at the left upon it. The dimensions should be followed carefully. Measure first from the end A to the point B, and then draw the slanting line to D, at an angle of 45°. Mark the width to E, and measure the other distances from A and at the middle, to determine the curve of the edge. Mark the dotted lines extending from D, which are guides for the folding of the paper to form the glider, as shown in the lower sketch. Curl the points under the side so that the line FD comes to the position DG, and pin them to the corners H, as shown in the lower sketch. The glider is tossed by holding it between the thumb and forefinger at the middle of the fold underneath it.--S. R. Edwards, Seattle, Wash.

Cleaning a Clock with Kerosene Fumes

A simple way of cleaning a clock is as follows: Remove the pendulum and procure a ball of cotton wool, about half the size of a fist. Saturate this with kerosene, and place it in a saucer, or a tin lid, in the case under the works of the clock. Close the case and leave the cotton for several days. It will then be found that the fumes from the kerosene have brought down the dust from the works; in fact, the cotton will be covered with black specks. It only remains to oil the bearings of the works, and the clock will be quite in order.--S. Leonard Bastin, Bournemouth, England.

A Reversible Photographic Developing Tank

BY LAWRENCE F. CAMPBELL

One of the chief difficulties in developing plates in a nonreversible developing tank is that irregular development takes place, because the developer tends to settle more or less, depending on the time necessary for complete development. The construction of a reversible tank is a simple matter, and the cost is slight. The tank described is 3¹⁄₄ by 4¹⁄₄, in. in size, but the dimensions can be varied for other sizes of plates. The tank is a box having grooves in opposite ends for the plates. By placing the latter back to back, 12 can be developed at a time. Sheet rubber is fitted between the cover and the body of the tank, and the cover, upon being screwed down, makes a water-tight compartment of the box. The asphaltum paint used is not affected by the developer, and preserves the wood. Fixing and developing may both be done in the one tank, but it is preferable to use the tank for developing only.

The two sides are plain pieces, ¹⁄₂ by 4 by 4¹⁄₂ in. in size. The end pieces have ¹⁄₈ by ¹⁄₈-in. grooves, ¹⁄₄ in. apart and extending the length of the piece, which is ¹⁄₂ by 2¹⁄₂ by 4¹⁄₂ in. long. The grooves can be made either on a power saw, or by chiseling them out by hand. The bottom piece is ¹⁄₂ by 3¹⁄₂ by 5¹⁄₂ in. in size, with two ³⁄₈-in. holes bored to receive the bolts. The two bolt supports are ¹⁄₂ by ³⁄₄ by 1 in., and are also bored ³⁄₈ in. to receive the bolts, and are nailed to the end pieces. The cover is ¹⁄₂ by 3¹⁄₂ by 5¹⁄₂ in. long, with a slot in each end for the bolts, which are ³⁄₈ by 6-in. carriage bolts.

The parts are assembled with screws, and the tank is given two coats of asphaltum paint. Care should be taken, before assembling the parts, to insure that the plates fit the grooves.

Turned Cane with Snakes Inlaid

The making of a cane is a favorite job for the home craftsman, especially the veteran who finds himself in need of such a support and has the leisure to make it. A novelty in constructions of this kind is a turned cane built up of dark and light-colored woods with snakes inlaid. That shown in the illustration was made of black walnut and birch, with a walnut knob. It is made as follows: Glue up a piece of walnut and a piece of birch, ⁷⁄₈ by 1³⁄₄ by 3 ft. long, as shown at A. Mark out the snake on the birch surface, and cut it out very carefully on the band saw, or with a fine hand turning saw. The snake portion will drop out and is then separated into a walnut and a birch strip, making two similar snakes. Bore holes for the eyes and plug them with the opposite kind of wood. Replace the snakes in opposite positions, the one of birch in the walnut side, and the walnut one in the birch side. Glue them carefully into place, removing a small portion of the wood at the ends of the sawed pieces to make a close fit.

The stock then appears as at B, and is ready for turning in the lathe. If desired, circles may be laid out on the ends of the stock, and the piece planed down to the rounded and tapered form of a cane. This is a more tedious job, but if carefully done with sharp tools will give good results.

Turn down the shaft to the desired thickness, as shown at C, the upper end being about 1 in. and the lower end ¹⁄₂ in. in diameter. Turn a knob of walnut as suggested, and after sandpapering the work carefully, finish it with shellac. Tip the bottom of the cane with a suitable ferrule.--E. K. Wehry, Cedar Rapids, Ia.

An Inexpensive Dry-Plate Kit

Wishing to use some 2¹⁄₄ by 3¹⁄₄-in. plates in a 6¹⁄₂ by 8¹⁄₂-in. camera, I made kits that proved satisfactory, as follows, the method being adaptable also to other sizes: A piece of cardboard the size of the camera plate was procured. A rectangle, as at A, was cut in the center, ¹⁄₁₆ in. larger each way than the plate. Paste, over the back of the cut-out rectangle, a sheet of tough, thin paper, B, and glue two small pieces of cardboard, as at C. Cut cardboard pieces D, E, F, and G, proportioned as at H, and glue them into position, G being over the others, the piece E sliding. If a dry plate is placed in the rectangle and E is slid toward the plate, it will hold the latter in position. The plate holder is loaded with the kit, and to prevent warping, a couple of pins are driven into the plate holder, as at H. Figures J and K indicate the open and closed positions. The ground glass is marked to correspond with the rectangle, so that one can tell where to focus the image.--L. L. Llewellyn, Piedmont, Calif.

Photographic-Print Washing Machine

BY HARRY MARCELLE

Many amateur photographers have occasion to make a considerable number of prints and find the washing of them tedious, by the ordinary methods. In order to overcome this difficulty the print-washing machine shown in the sketch was made. It is simple in construction and performs the work quite satisfactorily at a saving of not a little time. Since the water in which the prints are washed must be agitated, a pivoted tray is provided. A unique feature is the water wheel through which the water supply passes, at the same time developing power to operate the rocker arm, by means of which the tray is agitated.

The frame for the large trough, which contains the tray and other apparatus, is made of 2 by 4-in. uprights, braced with 2 by 2-in. pieces. The trough is made of ⁷⁄₈-in. stock, joined at the ends with a water-tight grooved, or dado, joint. The top is fitted to form a cover and may be hinged or arranged as a lid, supported and held in place by cleats, fixed on its under side with screws. The trough and its fittings may be made of a size suited to individual requirements. The device illustrated is 4 ft. long, and has a trough 18 in. wide and 13 in. high. The interior of the trough is given a coat of tar to make it waterproof, and the exterior may be painted thoroughly to preserve the wood.

The rocking tray, in which the prints are placed, is made of ⁵⁄₈-in. stock. It is 5 in. high, 15 in. wide, and 28 in. long. Splash boards are fixed at its ends, as shown, and the bottom is made of muslin, reinforced with wooden strips, ¹⁄₂ in. wide. The tray is supported on a rod or pipe at its center, the ends of the support being set into the sides of the trough. A crank arm of wood or metal is attached to the center of one end of the tray, and operates through an opening in the top of the trough. The crank arm engages a crank fixed to the shaft of the water wheel, as shown in the sketch. The crank must be made not longer than 2 in., or the resulting action on the tray will pour out too much water, the prints being thus in danger of damage.

The water wheel is made of two round disks of sheet metal, 9 in. in diameter. Strips of wood are fitted between them so that the wheel is 3 in. wide on the face. Wooden blocks, grooved to fit the shaft of the water wheel, are used as bearings. They are fixed to the top with bolts. The water supply is provided through a pipe at one end. A cap is fitted over the end of the extension on the pipe and a small hole drilled through it. This forces the water against the blades of the water wheel rather than permitting it to drop under normal pressure. The flow of water is regulated by the valve on the supply pipe, and the excess water is drained off at the opposite end of the trough. The force of the water, as it leaves the water wheel, is lessened, and the water carried gently to the tray, by means of a board set between the top and the tray, at the wheel end of the trough.

A Washstand for the Baby

To make this washstand, I mounted a cheese box on a frame 20 in. from the floor, and fitted a shelf between the legs 9 in. from the floor. In the center of this shelf a hole was cut, with a compass saw, to hold a wash basin. Rods between the legs are handy for towels, washcloths, etc. Within the circular box are kept baby’s toilet and bath articles. The inside of the box is padded with cotton and lined with nainsook, the latter being used, also, for the cover. When the cover is on the box, the stand is used as a small table. White enamel gives the stand a neat finish.--F. E. Brimmer, Dalton, New York.

Carrying Strap and Lock for Hand Cases

The illustration shows how to make a locking device for hand cases or satchels, and providing, also, a strap for carrying. Cut two pieces of ⁵⁄₈ by 2-in. strap iron, and two pieces, 2¹⁄₂ in. long. Bend them, and fasten them with screws or rivets, as shown. When the case is carried, the strap holds the crosspieces firmly.

Disk Talking-Machine Records Played Eccentrically

A hole was bored about an inch from the center of a disk talking-machine record and the latter was placed on the machine with the new hole over the center pin of the table. When the record was played, the result was a reproduction extremely amusing and hardly recognizable as compared with the original one.

Safety Flue Stopper Made of Tin Pail

The usual method of covering stovepipe holes in chimneys with a tin disk is not as safe as it should be, especially adjoining nonfireproof material. A safer method is to fit a tin can, or a tin pail, into the chimney hole, as shown. Cut it off the right length, with a pair of tin shears, leaving projections as stops, and replace the disk stopper.--J. A. Raught, Janesville, Wisconsin.

Book Rest for Music Stand

The music-stand attachment shown in the illustration aids in the handling of music books, and is easily made. Some stands are provided with a supporting edge about 1 in. wide and will not properly carry larger music books, and the device is attached to this edge. The device is of wood, ³⁄₁₆ by 3¹⁄₄ in., and the length of the stand. On the bottom, two wood strips are fastened. They are beveled as shown in the sectional view, to wedge on the music rest.--L. R. W. Allison, Newark, N. J.

Uses for Worn Talking-Machine Needles

Among the uses made of discarded steel talking-machine needles are the following: as glazier’s tacks; as brads, where a headless nail or an inconspicuous one is desired; as pins for fastening papers together; and for the tacking in of the backs on picture frames.--William A. Martin. Jersey City, N. J.

Automatic Photo-Print Washing

A photographers’ automatic print-washing device may readily be made with the aid of an alarm clock, and a spool to which a piece of thread is attached as shown. The spool is fixed to the alarm-clock winder. An upright support, having a nail driven into the top and bent over to form a hook, carries the thread, to which the print is attached by a small clip. The alarm-clock mechanism is then set, and when released draws the print from the dish, the bell warning the operator.--George H. Holden, Chesterfield, England.

Portable Sectional Poultry Fencing

Sectional poultry fencing has several advantages over stationary fencing: It can be easily moved, the poultry yard being made larger, smaller, or shifted; an area may be planted to a crop and gradually included in the yard, furnishing greens for the poultry. Also, the tenant who does not care to put down permanent equipment, will find sectional fencing desirable.

Sections are practical to about 18 ft. long, and should be 7 ft. high for the lighter breeds of poultry. If the fencing is to be used for grown stock only, the fine-mesh wire below may be omitted, and 2-in. mesh used. Some sections should be fitted with gates, and the top batten should be set down about 1 ft., so as not to afford footing for the poultry. The sections are lashed together with wire, and supported by an occasional post, or guyed to buildings or supports.

Suitcase Holder for Running Board of Automobile

Two metal strips, ³⁄₁₆ by 1¹⁄₂ by 20 in., were used to make a strong and adjustable holder for suitcases carried on the running board of an automobile. One-inch slots were cut near the top of the strips, which were bent to form angles having an upright portion 12 in. long. The angles are adjusted at the bolts, as shown, and the suitcase is held in place by straps.--Lucien G. Baer, Los Angeles, Calif.

Wheelbarrow for Large Cans

Large cans for milk are awkward to handle and transport in the dairy or barn, and the cart shown in the sketch was made from an old wheelbarrow and sections of pipe, to make this work easy. The pipes were bent to the shape shown and strongly braced with iron rods. A board bottom was provided, and the barrow wheel was mounted between the forked ends of the frame. The cart may be used for numerous other purposes, and is especially convenient in that the load need only be lifted slightly.--Monroe Woolley, San Francisco, Calif.

Plain Butts Used as Double-Swing Hinge

By placing two ordinary plain butt hinges so that two of their wings overlap completely, they may be made to serve as a double-swing hinge. If the holes do not correspond in the adjoining wings, drill new ones, disposing them to give the best hold in the wood. Allowance must be made in applying the hinge, for the double thickness of the center portion.

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¶A rubber finger tip is convenient in counting sheets in that the
paper is not soiled, since moistening of the finger is unnecessary.

Portable Skylight for Home Portraiture

BY W. W. IRVINE

Photographers who wish to construct a part of their equipment may be interested in a portable skylight, which I made and use with thorough satisfaction, for home portraiture. Covered with imitation leather, it is quite presentable in carrying it about. Figure 9 shows the case closed, with stand, flash lamp, box of flash powder, and a white-cloth reflector inside. The apparatus set up for work is shown in Fig. 5, and the details of construction in the other sketches.

First make the frames for the top and bottom of the case, A, of ³⁄₈ by 2¹⁄₂-in. wood, and B, of ³⁄₈ by 1¹⁄₄-in. stock, lengths and construction as shown in Fig. 3. Cut from extra-heavy mount board, two 21 by 28-in. pieces, C, and tack one to one side of each of the frames. Cut a similar piece, E, 15 by 26¹⁄₂ in., and hinge it with strong cloth, or thin leather, to the inner side of the thicker frame, to form the roof E, Fig. 5. Hinge the two frames with three butt hinges.

The frame is then ready for covering, and for this purpose imitation leather is economical and practical. Two yards of 36-in. material is needed. Use hot glue, first on the bottom half of the case, applying it smoothly, and press the fabric into place. Then cover the sides, the upper half, and the roof. The covering must be in one piece to prevent the smoke from escaping at the joints. Glue down the edges inside of the case, and set it aside for 24 hours to dry.

While waiting for the case to dry, the work on the bag can be done. Two yards of close-woven white muslin, or one yard of 60-in. sheeting, is required for the front. For the sides, closely woven black material should be used. Figures 1 and 2 show the dimensions, the white portions representing patterns, and the shaded portions material for hems and seams. The material is folded over the pattern, basted down, and hemmed at the dotted lines, 1¹⁄₂ in. from the edge. Sew the front to the curved sides. Allowance for shrinkage, when the bag is washed and fireproofed, has been made in these sizes.

FIG. 5

FIG. 7

FIG. 2

FIG. 8

FIG. 3

FIG. 9

FIG. 6

FIG. 4

This Homemade Skylight was Made at a Cost of $3, Gives Satisfactory Service, and Is Not Unsightly]

For fireproofing the bag, the following formula is good: water, 60 oz., ammonium phosphate, 4 oz., ammonium chloride, 8 oz. Soak the fabric half an hour, wring it out slightly, and hang it up to dry.

Cut a hole, 6 in. square, in the lower half of the case for the door F, Fig. 5. The door is of galvanized sheet iron, 7 in. square, covered on one side with imitation leather and provided with a leather handle. The door slides in guides of mount board, or metal, as shown in Fig. 4. Figure 8 shows the notch below the door to allow play for the spring of the flash lamp, in place in Figs. 5 and 6. Mine was made for cartridges, but by attaching a pan of heavy tin, I use it for flash powder.

The leather socket, into which the top of the holder G, is slipped, is shown in detail in Fig. 7. Suitcase catches, D, lock the apparatus in open or closed position. The roof E, is supported by two folding desk slides.

To fasten the bag in place, slip a cheap yardstick, or strip, cut to the proper length, in each of the hems at the edges, and set them snugly inside and against the sides of the open case and under the edge of the roof. Fasten them with screws, as shown at the edges in Fig. 5. The bag is easily removed by withdrawing the screws and the strips, for washing and fireproofing it again. The front must hang away from the lamp before the charge is fired, or the bag may be burned. After firing the flash, the skylight is carried out and the smoke expelled.

Fuel Box in Seat Filled from Floor Trapdoor

A fuel box for the fireplace may be easily arranged so that it is unnecessary to carry the fuel through the living rooms, thus avoiding soiling floors and rugs. It may be installed, as shown, for a summer cottage, or even in the living room of a home. The fuel box is built under the seat of a comfortable settle, and the wood, coal, etc., are placed in the fuel compartment by passing it up through trapdoors in the floor at the center of the box. The fuel is piled at each side of the trapdoor behind a low partition, and the trapdoors are closed when not in use. The seat of the fuel box is divided at the middle and hinged to swing back. Suitable cushions should be provided for the seat.--M. P. Norton, Chicago.

Homemade Relay of Inexpensive Materials

A practical relay was made of odds and ends gathered in the workshop. The base is of wood, ³⁄₄ by 3 by 6 in. The magnets A are made of two wire nails driven into the base, the heads projecting 1¹⁄₂ in. They are wound with six layers of fine insulated No. 25 gauge wire, as shown in the small sketch. The ends of these magnet wires are carried to the two binding posts B and C, taken from dry-cell carbons.

The armature D is a piece of soft iron, ¹⁄₂ by 2¹⁄₂ in., screwed to the armature lever E, which is a ¹⁄₂ by 4¹⁄₂-in. piece of wood. A piece of tin is tacked to the opposite end F, and a ¹⁄₈-in. hole is bored through the lever, 2¹⁄₂ in. from the front end. Nail a wooden block, G, to the base, slotted to accommodate the lever, so that when the latter is pivoted in the slot, the armature will lie directly over the magnet heads. Fit a wooden stop, H, under the end of the lever, so that the armature is held ¹⁄₈ in. above the magnets, by a brass spring, J, connected to the tin, F, and the binding post, K, with copper wire. Arrange the brass hook, L, so it comes in contact with F when the armature bears down upon the magnets. Connect this hook to the binding post, M. When current flows through the magnets, the armature is pulled down and the contact of the hook, L, with the tin, F, completes a secondary circuit.--L. R. Hardins, Harwich, Mass.

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¶A nutcracker may be used as a substitute for a pipe wrench or
pliers, and its toothed handles grip round objects quite firmly.

A Photographic Printing Machine

BY L. B. ROBBINS

A printing machine for “gaslight” papers, to be used in localities not equipped with gas or electricity and where printing is to be done after daylight, is shown in the sketch. The measurements given are only approximate, as conditions will determine its size. That shown is made as follows: First procure a 6¹⁄₂ by 8¹⁄₂-in. or 8 by 10-in. printing frame. Remove the brass clips from the pad and fasten one end of the pad to the frame, by a pair of small hinges, with the glass in the frame. Procure a box, about 12 by 15 in., by 8 in. deep, with one side open. Cut a rectangular opening through the 12 by 15-in. side a bit smaller than the printing frame, and secure the frame in place over the opening with screws. Saw a slot ³⁄₄ in. wide through the top of the box--the end nearest the hinged end of the printing frame pad--running it the full width and about 3 in. from the front.

Nail cleats along the inside of each side of the box, placing them vertical and parallel, and about ³⁄₄ in. apart, so as to form a slide groove in conjunction with the slot. This groove is to receive a frame or curtain constructed of stock, 2 in. wide and ¹⁄₂ in. thick. The outside dimensions of the curtain are a trifle smaller than the inside measurements of the box itself. Cover the frame with orange paper, and when finished insert it through the slot in the top of the box. Build a frame as indicated, on the outside of the box. Along the inside of the uprights fasten cleats, thick enough to come flush with the ends of the slot. These serve to steady the curtain when raised. Make a suitable baseboard and secure the box to it. Then with sheet tin construct a lamp house extending from the back of the box and of sufficient size to accommodate a round-wick lamp. Leave an opening in the top to admit the chimney, provide holes for ventilation, and a door by which the lamp may be adjusted. When completed, paint the interior of the box and lamp house white, to intensify the printing quality of the light. Tie a piece of stout cord to a screw eye inserted in the upper end of the sliding curtain, lead it through two pulleys fastened as shown, and down to the hand lever. The latter is pivoted at the rear end by a bolt. Attach a spring to the lower end of the hinged pad on the printing frame. This holds the pad out of the way when not in use. A curtain-roller spring is suitable for this purpose.

To operate the machine, place the negative and paper in position, and, with the left hand, bring the pad down. Pull down the hand lever with the right hand, raising the orange curtain. When the required exposure is made, release the lever, shutting off the direct light. While nearly all light is shut out by means of the lamp house, the paper may be handled safely and easily by means of that admitted through the orange curtain. By systematic arrangement and handling of materials, it is surprising what an amount of work can be turned out by the aid of this machine, especially if one person attends to the exposing and another to the developing.

A Small Variable Condenser

The condenser shown in the diagram combines the large capacity of a fixed condenser with the gradual capacity variation of a variable one. It is suitable for a wireless receiving circuit, or to shunt around the vibrator of an induction coil, by making the units considerably larger. It is made up of several fixed condensers, connected in parallel, a lever being the means whereby the capacity is varied. Five or more units may be used, each being a small condenser, built up of 10 sheets of waxed paper and nine sheets of tin foil. A convenient size for the tin foil is 6 by 4 in., and for the paper, 5¹⁄₂ by 4¹⁄₂ in. The latter should be a good grade of very thin linen paper and should be carefully prepared by dipping it in hot paraffin. The sheets of tin foil and paper in each unit are piled up alternately, allowing about ¹⁄₂ in. on each tin-foil strip to project beyond the paper for making connections. The pile is covered with heavy paper, and a heated flatiron is passed on the top of each unit until the paraffin begins to melt. Upon cooling, the units are compact.

The connections necessary are shown in the diagram. The condenser units C, D, E, F, G, each have one side connected to a common terminal A. The other sides of the condensers are connected to the copper strips H, J, K, L, M. They are ¹⁄₂ in. wide and ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick. A copper lever, ¹⁄₈ by ¹⁄₂ by 8 in., is pivoted on one end so that it will connect two or more of the condensers in parallel. The pivoted end is connected to the terminal B. The dotted line shows different positions of the lever. The apparatus is mounted in a wooden box.--Peter J. M. Clute, Schenectady, N. Y.

Lighting a Candle without Touching the Wick

A candle may be lighted without the match flame touching the wick, as follows: Light the candle, let it burn a bit; then blow it out. A small column of smoke will rise from the wick. Touch the match flame to this, a little above the wick, and it will ignite, travel down, and relight the wick from the burning oil gas.

Emergency Lifting Device of Rope and Lever

When block and tackle, chain hoists, or similar equipment are not at hand, the simple arrangement shown in the sketch is useful for lifting heavy loads. Make the lever A of a piece of 2 by 4-in. stuff, and cut notches into it for the ropes, as indicated. From a suitable support, B, fix the ropes C and D to the lever A at the proper notches, permitting the ends C-1 and D-1 to be drawn down and fastened to the floor or other support as required in raising the load. Fix the rope E to the load W, and suspend it from the lever A at the proper notch by means of a loop, E-1. To raise the load, bear down on the end of the lever when it is in its original position A-1, bringing it to the position A-2. This will bring the lower rope to position E-2. Draw up the slack in rope D, to bring the loop to position D-2, and fasten it. Then lift the lever A from its position A-2, to the position A-3, and draw up the slack in rope C to bring the loop up to position C-2. The lower rope will be brought to position E-3. By repeating this process, the load may be raised gradually. The ropes may, of course, be of various lengths within the range of the support and the operators.

Mucilage Brush and Container Made of a Test Tube

An ordinary test tube, about ⁵⁄₈ by 6 in. in size, may be made into a mucilage container and brush that economizes the material and does not get the fingers sticky. The end of the tube is covered with a piece of soft cloth after the tube is filled, as shown in the sketch. A convenient way to care for the device is to keep it in a small tumbler.--A. H. Carrington, Trenton, N. J.

Holder for Household Ice Pick

An ice pick is often a source of danger, if left lying about the home, and should be kept at a place convenient to the ice box, where it will not be likely to cause injury. The small bracket on which the ends of the roller curtain are supported is a satisfactory holder for the pick. It may be fastened to the wall with nails, or screws, so that the pick may be suspended in the center hole.--Robert J. Donnelly, Cincinnati, Ohio.

Swing Made of Hickory Sapling

A swing, so durable that it has become a virtual landmark, was made from a long, straight hickory sapling suspended from the limb of a tree. The sapling was split part of its length, as shown in the illustration, and a bolt put through it to prevent the upper portion from cracking. The lower end was smoothed off, so as not to injure the hands, and mortised through a slab of wood, as shown in the detailed sketch. A safe hook from which to suspend the swing is suggested. It is made from a bolt fixed through the limb and curled at the hook end so that the swing may be taken down in bad weather.--Hubert Kann, Pittsburgh, Pa.

Match Safe of Miniature Cannon Shell

The match safe shown in the sketch was made by a worker in a munitions plant. The container was shaped like a small cannon shell and was set into a bracket supported on a prettily grained board, stained and varnished, and supported by a chain.--J. H. Moore, Hamilton, Can.

Washing Bromide Enlargements