Chapter XXX: Part II: A Netted Hammock (5)

A simple and attractive protection for the wall back of the range or sink in a kitchen was provided by fixing a piece of plate glass to the wall by means of round-headed brass screws. The glass may be washed easily and can be removed when new wall covering is applied.--Contributed by Jennie E. McCoy, Philadelphia, Pa.

Polishing with a Hand Drill

There are certain desired effects in polishing metal that can only be obtained with a true rotary motion. There is no amount of handwork that will produce a proper finish on the round head of a brass screw. Therefore, when small pieces of metal are to be shaped up with the file and polished, simply set them in a three-jaw chuck of a hand drill, and then clamp the drill in a vise, as shown in the illustration. Operate the drill with the left hand and hold the file, or emery paper, with the right, and a finish will be obtained that can in nowise be distinguished from lathe work. It is surprising how different round-head brass screws appear when treated in this manner.

Releasing a Parachute from a Kite

Parachutes may be released from suspended kites readily by providing tripping loops on the kite tail, as shown in the illustration. Form a loop on one end of a piece of cord, and tie the other end to the kite tail. Make a loop in one end of another piece of cord and tie the other end to the top of the parachute. Tie a piece of cord around a nail close to its head and fix this also to the kite tail. Pass one loop through the other and insert the nail, as shown in the sketch. To trip the parachute, pull in about a yard of string and release it quickly. The parachute will trip without fail. The end of the string may be fastened to a stake driven into the ground or it may be held in the hand.

A Trick Blotter

An ordinary blotter may be transformed easily so that it will remove ink completely when applied instead of leaving sufficient to recognize the script, by steeping it in a solution of oxalic acid. Permit it to dry after several applications of the acid. It will be the source of much amusement, and is useful as well.

Magic Candles Explained

BY CLIFFORD WAYNE

Clever and baffling though it may be, the magic-candle trick may be performed easily and with professional skill by a person who has made a few simple preparations. The illustration shows the candles arranged on a table made of a music stand.

Candles, cigars, or pencils may be used, but for the purpose of this description the former will be used. The candles are of different colors but of the same size and weight. The manipulation is as follows:

Exhibit a tube of brass, cardboard, or other suitable material, just large enough to contain a candle. Then retire from the room, leaving the tube on the table while one of the spectators selects one of the candles and places it into the tube, covering the end of the latter securely with a small cap. The other candles are hidden before the performer is permitted to return. The trick is to announce the color of the candle contained in the box by merely passing the hand over it several times. The box and candle are passed out for inspection and will bear it if properly prepared.

The secret of the trick is this: The first candle, for example, the white one, is unprepared. The second, a blue one, has concealed in it, ¹⁄₂ in. from the top, a small piece of magnetized steel. The third candle, a red one, has a similar bar concealed at the middle; the fourth, a magnetized bar ¹⁄₂ in. from the bottom, and the fifth candle has the bar at a point halfway between the middle and the bottom. The candles are made of wood and the magnets may readily be imbedded in them. They are made of two pieces glued together like a pencil.

The performer hides a small compass in his palm. It is held in place by a wire clip, gripped between the second and third fingers near the knuckles. A wave of the hand over the tube containing a candle will affect the compass if any candle other than the white one is used. Its needle will vibrate when approaching the concealed magnet, and by determining quickly the position of the magnet, the color may be announced.

Those who offer guesses usually insist that some electrical device is used.

Desk Slide in Top of Drawer

Placing a lock lid in the top of a desk drawer provided a writing board and also gave privacy to the drawer, as shown in the sketch.

A lady’s desk in a nicely furnished room was used for the telephone and as the desk was often locked there was no place on which to rest the instrument or to take notes. The drawer lid, locked with a chest lock, proved effective. The lid may be moved back so as to expose the contents of the drawer. It was finished to match the desk.--Contributed by Victor Labadie, Dallas, Tex.

Repairing a Broken Fly-Screen Frame

An old broken fly-screen frame was made quite rigid with the use of metal braces, cut as shown and fastened with nails to each corner. The brace was cut from sheet metal, and the edges A and B were cut and bent at right angles to the main part, with their extreme edges bent over the frame. These were sufficient to make the frame as rigid as a new one.

Raising the Temperature of a Room

The temperature of a room may apparently be raised several degrees with the same expenditure of heat, and greater comfort will result by the application of a simple principle. In summer a moist day seems warmer than a dry one though the thermometer registers the same. By permitting steam to escape from a radiator or keeping a kettle boiling on the stove, the air is moistened and feels warmer.

A Carbon Electric Water Heater

The water heater illustrated is for use on a 110-volt circuit without added resistance. It consists of two electrodes which are immersed directly in the water; and while it is not as artistic as the usual nickelplated heater, it is usually more economical and has the distinct advantage that it cannot be burnt out. It may be made as rapid in action as desired, is inexpensive and very convenient where water is required for experimental or industrial purposes.

For the electrodes, procure two ¹⁄₂-in. uncoppered carbons, and drill a hole in the top of each of these so that feed wires can be attached. The handle is shaped from a piece of hard wood. The lower end is hollowed out half round at either side, so that the carbons will fit in snugly. Four small holes are then drilled through from side to side for binding wires, and a large hole is made in the center for the feed wires. Two smaller branch holes are then drilled to join the center hole, so that the double feed cord may be branched out to reach both electrodes. The outer edge of the handle is neatly rounded off and boiled in paraffin so as to render it impervious to moisture.

Remove sufficient insulation from the feed cord to make a good connection with the carbons. Fish the wire through the handle from the upper end. Pull each of the two ends pretty well through, so that they can be securely threaded into the holes previously made in the carbons. Have the latter quite hot and run in as much solder as possible, forcing it in with the end of a match as it becomes plastic. Remove all traces of the flux, and paint the connection with some melted pitch, taken from the top of a discarded dry cell. The feed cord may then be pulled up tightly, which will draw the carbons in place. They are then bound by threading through several strands of copper wire. If the holes in the wood are slightly countersunk, and two small grooves filed around each carbon at the right places to let the holding wires in, the binding feature may be disposed of very neatly.

In some localities the water is so free from all mineral salts that it will not carry the current freely, which means that the electrodes must be placed closer together, or else a small pinch of common salt may be added to the water. Although, in sterilizing instruments, boiling eggs, or something of that sort, this would be of no advantage, the salt greatly hastens the boiling.

Preventing Looseness of Drawer Handles

Drawer handles frequently become loosened and sometimes cause further annoyance by falling to the floor or becoming lost, because the bolt fastening, as shown in the sketch, is not secure. This may be avoided by inserting a rubber band between the head of the bolt and the drawer front. When the knob is drawn up tightly the pressure of the rubber band prevents it from becoming loosened.--Contributed by O. F. Germaine, Akron, Ohio.

An Electrical Dancer

The modification of the well-known mechanical dancer shown in the illustration is based on the principle of the electric bell. While the amusing antics of the mechanical dancer are controlled by the hand, the manikin shown is actuated by the electromagnet.

The mechanism is contained in a box. It consists of an electromagnet with a soft-iron armature carried by a spring. A wire from the battery goes to the magnet. The other terminal of the magnet connects with the armature spring at L1. The spring is bent at a right angle at its other end, L2, and carries a platform, L3, strengthened by a smaller disk underneath. The dancer performs upon this platform.

A contact spring, S, is carried by the armature spring. A contact screw, C, is adjustable in its contact with the spring S. A wire runs from the contact screw to the binding post B, to which the other battery wire is connected.

The current keeps the platform in constant vibration, causing the dancer to “dance.” By means of the screw C, the action of the current may be varied, and the “dancing” will vary correspondingly.

The figure is made of wood with very loose joints and is suspended so that the feet barely touch the platform.--Contributed by Edward C. Connelly, Wilkesbarre, Pa.

Child’s Swing Built of Pipes in Narrow Space

A narrow space between two city houses was used to erect a swing, as detailed in the illustration. A piece of 2-in. iron pipe, A, was cut 1 ft. longer than the space between the walls. Two pieces of 2¹⁄₂-in. pipe and a 2¹⁄₂ by 2¹⁄₂ by 1¹⁄₄-in. tee, as shown in the detail, was slipped over the 2-in. pipe, which was built into the walls. A 1¹⁄₄-in. pipe, B, 20 ft. long, bent as shown, was joined to the tee, and a seat, C, was attached. The construction of the seat is shown in detail, being fixed to the wooden part with washers, nuts, and a threaded nipple, D. A cushion and a removable safety bar, E, were also features. This swing is safer than one of rope, and will stand much greater wear.--James N. Reed, San Francisco, Calif.

Door Bumpers Raise Height of Chair

Four wooden door bumpers, of the rubber-tipped knob type, fastened to the lower ends of the legs of one of the kitchen chairs, make an almost indispensable high chair, which will bring the table work to a more comfortable height than the ordinary chair does. The young child also will appreciate such a chair at the dining table. When it is no longer needed, the knobs can be unscrewed quickly.--J. E. McCoy, Philadelphia, Pa.

A Homemade Hawaiian Ukulele

BY S. H. SAMUELS

The one-string banjo, the cigar-box guitar, and similar vaudeville favorites are giving way to the tantalizing ukulele, and the home mechanic, to be up to date in his musical craftsmanship, must fall in line. The size of this instrument makes it especially suited to the cigar-box type of body construction, as detailed in the several sketches and shown in the photograph reproduced. This neat ukulele was made at a cost of 30 cents, by careful selection of materials from the shop scrap stock.

A cigar box of good-quality Spanish cedar, about 2¹⁄₂ by 6 by 9 in., as shown in Fig. 1, is used for the body. Remove the paper carefully, so as not to mar the surface, soaking it if necessary. Take it apart, and if the nail holes are too numerous, or broken out, trim off the edges. Fit the parts of the body together, as shown in Fig. 2, the top and bottom pieces resting against the side and end pieces, and the latter between the sides. Cut the 2¹⁄₂-in. hole in the top piece, as shown, 3³⁄₄ in. from the neck end. To reinforce the body make strips A, ¹⁄₄ in. square, and fit them to be glued into the corners at the top and bottom. Make strips B, ¹⁄₄ by ⁵⁄₈ by 4¹⁄₂ in., and glue them under the top and on the bottom as indicated in Fig. 2. The final assembling and gluing of these parts, using animal glue, should be done after the bridge C is in place, and the other parts are made. The bridge is of hard wood hollowed underneath the notched edge, as detailed, and is fitted with a metal string contact.

FIG. 3

FIG. 2

To Keep in the Fashion in His Musical Craftsmanship, the Home Mechanic may Make a Cigar-Box Ukulele as Detailed]

Spanish cedar or mahogany is suitable for the neck, detailed in Fig. 3. A single piece is best, but the extension for the pegs and the wider end at the body may be joined and glued to the main portion of the neck. Dowels should then be used to reinforce the joints. The outline of the parts of the neck are shown in detail in Fig. 3. In the sectional view at the right, the shape of the neck at the thinnest and thickest parts is shown by the two upper curved, dotted lines. The nut D is made of mahogany, walnut, or other hard wood, the grain extending lengthwise, and the notches for the strings spaced as shown.

The making and spacing of the frets must be done very carefully. They are of aluminum, brass and other metals being suitable also. Make the frets ¹⁄₁₆ by ³⁄₁₆ in. and cut grooves ¹⁄₈ in. deep for them. The spacing of the frets is determined as follows, a standard practice: The distance from the metal string-contact on the bridge to the nut should be measured carefully. The first fret, near the head, is ¹⁄₁₈ of this distance from the nut, the total length being in this instance, 13 in. The second fret is set ¹⁄₁₈ the distance from the first fret to the bridge; the third, ¹⁄₁₈ from the second fret to the bridge, etc. The frets must fit tightly in the grooves, requiring no special fastening. The tuning pegs may be bought or made.

In assembling the parts, fasten the end of the body to the neck, with glue, reinforced by screws. Set its upper edge parallel with the fingerboard, and so that the latter is flush with the top of the body, when fitted to it. Assemble the body, without the top, gluing it to the end, fixed to the neck. When this portion is thoroughly dried, fit the top into place finally, and glue it. The whole construction is then cleaned, sandpapered, stained, and shellacked or varnished. The stringing of the instrument is simple, and the strings may be purchased in sets.

Homemade Suitcase Extension

A handy addition to the traveler’s equipment is a suitcase extension that may be removed when not in use, and folded compactly, inside of the suitcase if desired. This latter feature is provided for by arranging the extension to be folded vertically at the middle. Heavy leather, cloth board covered with strong linen, or canvas of a suitable color may be used. If cloth board is used it should be cut the size of the side of the suitcase, and smaller sections hinged to it at the folds. The leather need not be reinforced if it is fairly strong. Cut the leather at A, B, C, and D, and arrange it to be folded on the dotted lines. Rivet guides for the straps, as at E. Fit the corners with buttons or snaps F, which are locked in position when the extension is in use. The device slides over the suitcase and may be drawn tightly against it when empty.--R. S. Matzen, Fort Collins, Colo.

Putty Deadens Glossy Surfaces in Photography

Attempts to make “close-up” photographs of machinery, or highly polished objects, often fail because the reflection of light upon the bright surfaces causes a blur in the photograph. Some photographers use putty to deaden the gloss. A lump of putty is rubbed over the surface gently where a brilliant reflection is visible, or the entire surface is rubbed so that it presents an even, dead finish on the ground glass of the camera, when focusing.--Ralph W. Tillotson, Erie, Pennsylvania.

Coop for Sitting Hens

When several hens are to hatch out settings at the same time, considerable space can be saved and much convenience afforded by making a coop as shown in the illustration. It consists of an outer frame of boards, 1 ft. wide and 6 ft. long, or as long as desired for the runway. The frame is divided into compartments by boards extending from end to end, each compartment being for one hen. The frame is placed on level ground and staked in place. At opposite ends of each compartment is a hinged cover. The intervening space is covered with wire netting, with shelter boards placed loosely over it. Under one of the hinged covers the nest should be placed on the ground, and at the opposite end food and water are provided. Each hen has plenty of space to exercise in, and must at least get up for food and water. The individual covers permit separate examination of the eggs, or feeding of the hens.--F. W. Buerstatte, Pullman, Wash.

Smoking of Lamp Overcome by Increasing Draft

While sitting in a room around a lamp, a group of workmen discussed the probable causes for the smoking of an oil lamp. By way of experiment, holes were punched in the perforated part of the burner, increasing the draft through the glass chimney. It was then possible to turn the light up much higher, without the usual deposit of smoke. As a result of this, several other troublesome lamps were soon remedied.--J. E. McCormack, Haliburton, Ontario, Can.

Pencil Sharpener Made of Wafer Razor Blade

This tool combines a knife and a file in one handle, of wood, 7 in. long. The knife is a single-edged safety-razor blade, clamped to the handle by two round-head screws. A space, ¹⁄₈ in. deep, under the blade is allowed for chips, and a piece of a fine file is recessed into the other end of the handle. To use this sharpener, hold it as a pocketknife is ordinarily held in whittling. The blade will keep its edge for a considerable time.--Ralph W. Hills, Madison, Wisconsin.

Device for Sharpening Fiber Phonograph Needles

A practical sharpener for fiber phonograph needles may be made as follows: A lever handle, A, is cut from heavy sheet metal. A safety-razor blade, B, is bolted to it, and the metal flap bent over as indicated. A block, C, is cut so that the upper face makes an angle of 30° with the base, is faced with a metal strip, E. A triangular groove is cut or filed for the needle G. The lever is hinged, as shown, by means of a screw. A base, D, may be added. To operate the sharpener, place a needle in the groove so that a very small portion of the playing end extends past the face of E, and shear off the end.--C. M. Hall, St. Louis, Missouri.

Canoe or Boat Stored in Pulley Slings

A canoe, or small boat, which is taken from the water when not in use, suffers damage if it is left unprotected in the open. A practical method of storing it so that it can be taken out quickly is to suspend it from the roof structure of a small shed, or a garage, by means of slings. The latter are made of double thicknesses of strong canvas, and are provided with rings where they join to the lower pulleys of the hoisting rope and tackle. The cushions, paddles, etc., may be left in the canoe.--Robert W. Jamison, Mitchell, S. D.

Clod Rake Protects Corn in Cultivating

Small corn is often injured by lumps of dirt being thrown on it when cultivating. If these are not removed the corn may grow to one side or may lie flat on the ground. In order that I need not get off the cultivator to remove such lumps, I made a rake out of an old fork. The tines were heated and bent, as shown. An iron rod may be used for the handle, but the wooden one is light and easy to hold.

Curious Support for Call Bell

Two highly polished horns fitted into a polished wooden base and banded with silver form the support for a call bell shown in the illustration. A tapper, which rests beside the stand, was made of a deer hoof.--James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Ordinary Pen Converted into Fountain Pen

An ordinary penholder and pen point may be easily converted into a fountain pen, with the aid of a brass paper clip of the kind shown. The cap is pried off and the prongs straightened. One of the prongs is cut to suitable length, and the end bent as indicated. It is then inserted in the penholder, and adjusted to ¹⁄₈ in. from the end of the pen point. The ink is placed between the bent clip and pen point, from where it feeds evenly as needed. This kink is helpful when using the heavier drawing inks, as well as with writing inks.--R. L. Templin, Champaign, Ill.

Screwdriver Made from Buttonhook

Losing a sewing-machine screwdriver, I easily made another by cutting off the hook end of a buttonhook with a chisel. The cut end was placed upon a piece of iron and, with a hammer, formed into a screwdriver in a few minutes. The rounded top of the buttonhook makes it convenient to handle or hang up.--E. M Bierwagen, South Bend, Ind.

Guarding a Camp Chest against Theft

Unless a camp chest is secured to the ground so that it is difficult for marauders to carry it away it cannot be left at unguarded camps without some danger of theft. By fitting the chest, A over stakes, B set into the ground with crosspieces, D a secure fastening is provided. Cleats, C, with holes for lag screws, are fitted into the bottom of the chest, making it easy to remove the fastening when desired. The cleats are kept in the bottom of the chest when not in use.--K. A. Thompson, Lexington, Va.

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¶By carefully piercing the small end of an eggshell with a large
needle, a funnel for filling very small bottles is provided.

A Toy Horse That Walks

This toy, amusing for the youngsters, and their elders as well, will repay one for the making of it. Use a cigar box for the carriage, making it about 10 in. high, and shape it in the design shown. Nail a piece of wood, ¹⁄₈ by 2 by 4 in. wide, on each side of the carriage, and drill ¹⁄₈-in. holes in them for the axle. For the horse, take a piece of wood, ¹⁄₂ by 4 by 6 in. long, and draw an outline of the head, neck, and body. Cut this out and drill ¹⁄₈-in. holes where the legs are attached.

Cut the legs as shown, about 3¹⁄₂ in. long. Attach them with small bolts, or rivets, allowing space to move freely. The wheels are made of pine, ¹⁄₂ in. thick and 3 in. in diameter. The axle is made of ³⁄₁₆-in. wire bent to the shape indicated, ¹⁄₂ in. at each offset. Fit the wheels on the axle tightly, so as not to turn on it, the axle turning in the pieces nailed to the sides of the carriage. The horse is attached to the top of the carriage by a strip of wood. A 3-ft. wooden handle is attached to the back of carriage to guide it. Wires are attached to the legs, connecting with the offsets in the axle.--Charles Claude Wagner, Los Angeles, Calif.

Safeguarding Contents of Unsealed Envelopes

The gummed flaps on envelopes for first-class mail are generally short, and for sending photographs or second-class matter these short flaps do not stay tucked in. The solution is to lengthen the flap, by pasting on a sheet of paper, using the gum thereon.--G. N. Neary, New York, N. Y.

Revolving Outdoor Lunch Table

Picnic parties on one of the Maine lakes make much use of a large table, having a revolving top, so that the lunch may be placed on the center portion and the persons seated around the board may help themselves handily. The stationary top is supported on several cross braces of 2 by 4 in. stuff, and the revolving top, pivoted at the center, is carried on wooden roller bearings, fixed near its circumference. The lower portion of the table is in the form of cupboards which are padlocked, providing storage space for equipment left for the use of picnickers. The table is set under a pergola, which provides shade. Benches, curved to fit the table, may be used conveniently with it. A small table of this type is practical as a children’s play table, providing convenient storage space for toys and other articles.--E. E. Dickson, Holyoke, Mass.

* * * * *

¶When, in papering a bathroom with the same tiled paper on sides and
ceiling, the paper does not match in the ceiling corners, place a
strip of quarter-round there, and color it to suit the paper.

A Penny-in-the-Slot Newspaper Stand

A silent, yet very successful “newsboy” is shown in the photograph reproduced. Each rack holds one of the daily newspapers. The passer-by puts a penny in the slot and selects his paper. The penny falls down a chute, striking a bell, as evidence that the customer has paid. Hundreds of papers are sold from this rack each day without the aid of the newsboy’s shouts. The slanting shelves make it unnecessary to provide weights for the papers.--M. F. Hall, St. Louis, Mo.

Pedals for Typewriter Space and Shift Keys Increase Speed

By attaching pedals to the space key and shift key I increased my typewriting speed about 20 words a minute. I made two pedals fast to the typewriter desk, as shown, then ran stiff steel wires up to the keys, connecting the latter to the wire with rubber bands. The pedals are adjusted so that a light tap operates them. If a light typewriter is used, it should be fixed to the desk. The wires can be unhooked quickly from the typewriter, and suspended on hooks under the edge of the desk.--W. J. M., Manila, P. I.

Timing Pointer on Watch Crystal

Working in a photo-print finishing plant where often several jobs need attention and accurate timing, all at the same time, I find a pointer on my watch crystal a great help. The crystal was loose enough to permit turning it. I glued a three-cornered piece of black paper to the under side of the crystal at the edge. When a batch of prints is placed in a bath, the pointer is set 15 minutes ahead of the minute hand. When the latter reaches the pointer, it reminds me to remove the prints. After placing a batch of films in the developing tank, I set the pointer ahead of the minute hand the required time for developing, placing the watch in view, to see readily when the time is up.--A. J. Viken, Waterloo, Iowa.

Portable Tent Made from an Umbrella and Paper Muslin

Picnickers desiring to go in bathing are often handicapped by the lack of a convenient place to change clothes. An umbrella and some paper muslin provides a light portable tent that is practical and inexpensive for such uses. Cut the dark paper muslin into as many 9-ft. lengths as there are sections of the umbrella. Sew these strips together. At each seam tie a string about a yard long and a stout cord 15 ft. long to the handle to hold up the tent. For use, open the umbrella, invert it, and to each rib tie one of the strings. Then tie one end of the cord to the handle of the umbrella and suspend it from a tree or other support as shown, weighting or tying down the other end.--Mabel Hubbard Birch, Cincinnati, Ohio.

Memorandum List for Camping and Outing Trips

Persons who occasionally take an outing or go camping will find a written list of articles needed on the trip a great saving of time and mental energy. This list should be made while making preparations, and again read shortly before the departure. It may be kept from year to year, and items added or withdrawn, as experience teaches. Classification is desirable, under heads such as camping gear, cooking utensils, tableware, foods, supplies, etc. Each member of a party can agree to furnish certain articles, avoiding duplication. Anyone who has gone on outings and left behind some much-needed article, will readily realize the help such a list can be, and by its use the amateur may profit from the experience of others.

A Homemade Trouble Lamp

By attaching a handle for carrying, and making suitable connections, a portable trouble light was made of a dry battery. A strip of iron was bent to the shape shown, for the handle, and fixed to the binding post on the carbon. A bell from an alarm clock was drilled and tapped to fit a small light bulb, and fastened at the zinc post. The upper edge of the bell was bolted to the extension of the handle, as shown, leather washers insulating it. A small switch, riveted loosely to the iron strip, controls the light.--Carl A. Haberlein, McPherson, Kan.

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¶Books to be stacked or carried should be arranged with the backs on
alternate sides.

Pulley and Weight Exerciser Homemade in the Orient

FIG. 2

When the Necessary Hardware Was Not at Hand, a Satisfactory Rigging was Made for Exercising, by the Use of Novel Substitute Materials]

Finding it difficult to obtain materials for the making of a gymnastic exerciser, I made one with makeshift parts, typical of this locality. Later I was able to get the necessary hardware and made an exerciser, as shown in Fig. 1, quite similar to those manufactured commercially. The original arrangement is shown in Fig. 2. I mounted a bamboo rod on two iron brackets fastened to the wall. Small pegs provided guides for the ropes, and the smooth surface of the bamboo caused little wear. Other bamboo rods were used for the handle and to support the weights. These were made by filling cans with sand, and tying them with cords. This arrangement was quite practical, but did not give the desired freedom of movement.--M. A. Laner, Hongkong, China.

Scoop on Painter’s Knife Catches Scrapings

By fitting a sheet-metal scoop to a painter’s putty knife or wall scraper, much of the dirt and refuse resulting is caught in the receptacle instead of falling to the floor and being tracked into other rooms. The scoop is a rectangular can, and is fastened into place by small bolts fitted through the scraper.

Gas-Hose Bracket for Ironing or Shop Use

In a home where it was customary to use an overhead gas fixture for the attachment of the gas iron for ironing clothes, it was found that mantles were frequently broken by the resulting jar. By making a bracket for the gas hose, which is fastened to the end of the ironing board or to the edge of the table, this trouble was remedied. The new arrangement gave much greater freedom in the use of the iron. The bracket can be removed quickly and fitted to a bench for use in the shop.--M. J. F. Schramm, Ridgewood, N. Y.

Homemade Guide for Photo and Paper Trimmer

Having an old but still serviceable photograph trimmer, with which it was difficult to trim prints uniformly and quickly, I made a guide for this purpose and fitted it to the board, as shown. The guide is a strip of wood, ¹⁄₄ in. thick, and is fastened to the cleat with a spring hinge, mounted on a block. Although it is not transparent, like the best commercial devices of this kind, it gives good service.--R. B. Manck, Nazareth, Pa.

Joining Broken Liquid Column in Thermometer

To reunite the particles of mercury or other liquid, which have become separated in a thermometer, raise it to the level of the extended arm, the bulb outward, and jolt the tube with a quick downward stroke. Repeat this, not too vigorously, until the liquid returns to its proper position.

Umbrella Used as a Clothes Drier

A clothes drier that can be carried in a purse or a vest pocket will appeal to travelers, and persons living in small quarters. An umbrella, four yards of strong wrapping twine, and several small brass rings are required. Knot the rings into the twine at intervals, measuring the distance between the rib points of the umbrella, and hook the twine to the points by the rings, as shown, providing considerable drying space for small articles. Hook the umbrella handle over a suitable support, or tie it carefully to the supporting pipe of a light fixture in the middle of the room, ready for the articles to be dried. The twine may also be wrapped around the points, but it is better to carry a line with rings attached.

* * * * *

¶By reversing the handle on a dust brush which has been worn near the
point, additional wear may be obtained.

Metal Band Stiffens Brush

In painting, and other work where a brush is used, it is often desirable to stiffen the bristles. This may be done readily by fixing a band of sheet metal over the brush, to slide tightly. By adjusting it, the length and stiffness of the part of the bristles used may be controlled.

Rubber Band Prevents Tangling of Telephone Cord

It is exasperating to pick up the telephone receiver to answer a call and find the cord twisted or wound around the telephone standard. A long receiver cord will not tangle if a rubber band is used to support it, as shown in the sketch. The elastics permits considerable play, and if the fullest extension of the cord is desired, it may be supported on several linked rubber bands, on the left of the standard.--K. M. Coggeshall, Webster Groves, Mo.

Improvised Trousers Hanger in Train Berth

The berth of a sleeping car is usually provided with a coat hanger, but if there is a rod on it for trousers, there is nothing to keep them from slipping off. By removing two of the curtain hooks, hanging the trousers over the curtain pole, and replacing the hooks over the trousers, a satisfactory hanger is obtained, which will not permit them to slip down no matter how rough the road.

Headrest for Porch Swing

Here is a “peach” of a homemade porch swing--a shock-absorbing species. The top board is attached with springy hinges, and affords an ideal headrest. It also tends to prevent children from climbing over the back.--H. W. Hart, St. Paul, Minn.

Fruit-Picking Pole with Gravity Delivery Chute

For picking fruit without bruising it, in the home garden, or for exhibition purposes, the fruit-picking pole shown in the sketch is useful. A wire ring is fixed to the top of the pole, and the bag, suspended from it, is fastened to the pole at intervals. The fruit is removed by means of the ring and drops to the bottom of the chute, which is held closed by the hand. For picking large quantities of fruit a receptacle is carried by the picker.--Mrs. Ella L. Lamb. Mason, Michigan.

A Set of Electric Chimes

A set of electric dinner chimes is a welcome and useful addition to many households, and may be made at a trifling cost by the average person handy with tools. The completed article is shown in Fig. 1, the details in Fig. 2, and the wiring diagram in Fig. 3. The woodwork is of ¹⁄₂-in. stock. The back A, Fig. 2, is 1¹⁄₂ in., by 9³⁄₄ in. long. The ends may be shaped to suit the builder’s fancy. The shelf B is 4 in. square, and is fastened to the back piece 2¹⁄₄ in. from the upper end. It supports the magnets C, which are made on cores, ³⁄₈ in. in diameter and ³⁄₄ in. long, with ends ¹⁄₁₆ in. by 1 in. in diameter. The spools are wound full of No. 28 silk-covered copper magnet wire. These coils mounted on the shelf by means brass straps D. Four magnets are used, the forward one being omitted in Fig. 2.

FIG. 2

FIG. 3

When the Buttons are Pressed, Tones are Given Forth by the Electrically Operated Gongs]

The supports E, for the tubes, consist of ¹⁄₂-in. lengths of ¹⁄₄-in. square brass rod. One end of the rod is drilled and tapped for an 8-32 screw which holds the support in place. Drill a small hole, ¹⁄₄ in. from the end, for the pin G, made of steel wire. The tapper H is made from a 4¹⁄₂-in. length of stiff iron wire; 1¹⁄₄ in. from one end a ³⁄₈-in. cube of iron, J, is soldered, the wire passing through it. The ends of the wire are fitted with balls as shown. A nickeled gong, K, covers the four magnets. The end of the tapper is passed through the hole in the gong and the ball riveted into place.

Four ³⁄₄-in. diameter tubes are used, respectively 3, 4, 5, and 6 in. long. When the apparatus is assembled as shown, and one of the magnets is energized, the latter will draw the iron cube J toward it, and the tapper will strike one of the tubes.

To control the current supplying the magnets, four small push buttons mounted on a wooden base are used. They are wired up with the battery and coils, as shown in Fig. 3. A wire from each of the coils runs directly to one terminal of the battery, the other wire from each coil being connected to a separate push button. The other sides of the push buttons are connected to the battery. By this means any of the magnets may be energized at will, the coils and corresponding push buttons being marked L and M, etc., alphabetically.

Tabs for Turning Sheet Music Quickly

Musicians sometimes have trouble in turning over sheet music quickly. Here is a simple way to turn the leaves quickly and easily: Paste a tab on the edge of each sheet, as shown. The first sheet is tagged at the top, the second in the middle, and the last sheet at the bottom, like a letter file. Where there are many sheets, it is easy to grasp the upper tab, on each successive sheet.--M. W. Meier, Chicago, Ill.

A Springy Hammock Support Made of Boughs

In many camping places, balsam branches, or moss, are available for improvising mattresses. Used in connection with a hammock, or a bed made on the spot, such a mattress substitute provides a comfort that adds to the joys of camping. A camp hammock, or bed of this kind, is shown.

To make it, cut four 6-ft. poles, of nearly the same weight and 1 in. in diameter at the small end. These saplings should have a fork about 2¹⁄₂ ft. from the lower ends, as resting places for the crossbars, as shown. Then cut two poles, 2 in. in diameter and 3¹⁄₂ ft. long, and two smaller poles, 3 ft. long. Also cut two forked poles, 4¹⁄₂ ft. long, for the diagonal braces. Place two of the long poles crossing each other, as shown, 1 ft. from the ground. Set up the second pair similarly. Fix the crossbars into place, in the crotches, the ends of the crotch branches being fastened under the opposite crossbar. The end bars are fixed to the crossed poles by means of short rope loops. The mattress is placed on springy poles, 7 ft. long and 2 in. apart, alternating thick and thin ends. The moss is laid over the poles, and the balsam branches spread on thickly. Blankets may be used as a cover.--J. S. Zerbe, Coytesville, N. J.

A Revolving Card, or Ticket, Holder

A holder which may be ornamented and trimmed with leather or other materials, was made of several disks of wood, joined at the center by a thumbscrew, and provided a neat place for calling cards, post cards, etc. The block A, which fits against the wall, is ³⁄₈ in. thick and 2 in. in diameter. The disk C is ¹⁄₄ by 7 in., the disk D, 6 in., and the metal disk E, 6 in. in diameter. The edge of the metal disk, which may be of ornamented or etched brass, or copper, is curled forward as shown. The thumbscrew B holds the disks together and fastens them to the wall.--James E. Noble, Portsmouth, Ontario, Can.

Testing Direct Current Polarity with Litmus Paper

Litmus paper laid on glass, and moistened with a weak solution of sodium sulphate can be used to test the polarity of a direct current. If the two conductors are touched on the moistened paper, the latter will turn red at the positive, and blue at the negative conductor.

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¶A berry stemmer made of a small pair of tweezers is useful for
removing superfluous buds from garden flowering plants.

An Automatic Fishhook

The hook A is made of tempered brass or steel wire of a gauge sufficient for the size of the fish to be caught. A wire of No. 18 gauge is about right for ordinary fishing, with a No. 20 or 22 gauge for the trigger. Hooks, C C, can be soldered on the points to angle for larger fish. Barbs are not required for smaller fish.

Such a hook will catch the fish, even if they only nibble, and is especially good for fishing through the ice. Use a bob and a pole, and bait the short hook with a minnow or worm. The extreme length of a hook for catching a 1-lb. fish should be 3 in. Fasten the line as shown at B.--Contributed by Robert C. Knox, Waycross, Ga.

Temporary Binder for Magazines

The sketch illustrates an inexpensive temporary binder for periodicals, magazines, newspapers, etc. It consists of four parts, namely, two sheets of cardboard, A, the size of the magazine to be bound, and two pieces of linen or tape, B. A slot is cut in each corner of the cardboards about 1 in. from the edge. The tape is run through these slots in the manner shown.

The magazine numbers, as they are received, are placed on the back cardboard, building them up consecutively as they come. The ends of the tape are tied to hold them together. The backbone is open and the contents are readily seen.

The sliding of the tape in the slots provides a means of holding from one to as many copies as may be desired, and they are kept in good condition until a complete volume is compiled, when a more permanent binder can be made.

Instead of tape a leather strap can be used with a buckle. The tapes can be fastened to one of the cardboards, allowing one end only to be movable.

Combination Workshop Seat

A most practical and satisfactory way of using a stool in a small workshop is shown in the illustration. In much of my small work at the bench I find it an advantage to sit, and for that purpose I purchased a small stool. My lathe is operated by a geared foot motor provided with two foot levers which may be operated singly in a standing position or both at a time when sitting. The attachment shown converts the stool, the seat of which is too low except for bench work, into a comfortable and neat seat for working at a lathe. The sketch is self-explanatory.

A plate with a setscrew is mounted under the center of the stool seat, through which a hole is bored for the seat post. Two pieces of iron pipe, an elbow and an old bicycle saddle constitute the remaining parts of the device. Provision is made for adjustment as to height, and the position of the saddle may be changed in the ordinary way by using a wrench on the part which grips the horizontal length of pipe, just the same as the seat on a bicycle-seat post is adjusted.

Substitute for Rivets in Couches

The rivets in a couch come loose and work out quite often, leaving it loose and wobbly. To make rivets fit properly by hammering them into place is almost impossible and to repair the couch with stove bolts makes an unsightly job. A very good repair and one that will make a couch rigid and strong again is by the use of ordinary brass binding posts from old dry-battery cells instead of rivets. These can be easily placed without tools.--Contributed by G. H. Clemmons, Storm Lake, Iowa.

A Nonbinding Tool-Chest Slide Tray

The slide trays of a tool chest, especially if they are wider than they are deep, are apt to bind. To remedy this trouble, I procured four ordinary thread spools and inserted them in openings cut for them in the corners of the tray. Holes were bored through the corners for pins to hold the spools in place.--Contributed by J. V. Loeffler, Evansville, Indiana.

A Brooder

A very effective brooder can be made of an old feather duster hung in a box so that the tips of the feathers will come close to the bottom. The brooder consists of a wood box about 1 ft. high. The cover is removed and a hole cut in the center to receive the shank of the duster after cutting its handle off. This makes an excellent substitute for the feathers of the hen. Some finely cut hay, or sand, is placed beneath so as to bring the level up sufficiently for the chicks to run among the feathers. For ventilation, bore some holes in the sides of the box near the top and cut a small opening for an entrance. For convenience in cleaning, the cover should be hinged.--Contributed by Wm. T. Miller, Roslindale, Mass.

How to Make a Fancy Buttonhook

Procure a piece of ¹⁄₄-in. round steel, about 5 in. long, and file one end of it square for about one-third of the length, so that the diagonal of the square part is less than the diameter of the rod. Cut about 8 washers each, of brass and iron, from material, ¹⁄₈-in. thick. Make the hole in the washers square to fit the square on the rod. The washers can be cut out roughly on the outside, but they must be larger than the diameter of the rod. Place the brass and iron washers alternately on the rod, beginning with a brass and finishing with an iron washer, which latter is held in place by riveting the end of the rod on it.

The washers are then filed round, and the remaining end of the rod is tapered. The pointed end is bent into a hook. The whole length is then polished and buffed.--Contributed by H. W. Hankin, Trail, Can.

Hinge Lock for Horizontal Sliding Windows

A simple catch for fixing windows of the horizontal sliding type so that it is difficult to pry them open is shown in the sketch. It is made of an old hinge, one end of which is sharpened so as to engage the surface of the frame on which the sash slides. When not in use the hinge is folded up. It can be used to set the window at various points when it is desired to have it partly open.--T. H. Linthicum, Annapolis, Md.

Repairing a Brass Candlestick

A brass candlestick brought to me for repairs had lost a crownlike bit of ornamentation once fitting on the top of the grease cup. To make a finish at this point I soldered therein a heavy brass nose ring. The soldering being concealed on the under portion, the effect was very good, and strength was added to the thin brass cup, preventing possible denting of the edge.--James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Hand Guards for Motorcyclists

When riding my motorcycle in cool weather, my hands became very cold, and in order to overcome this, I had guards, like that shown in the sketch, made of oilcloth. A piece, tapered from 10 in. at one end to 4¹⁄₂ in. at the other, and 12 in. long, was formed into a cone, the smaller end being fitted, with an elastic band, over the handlebar. The guards keep the hands comfortable without gloves in cool weather, and, with gloves, are of great service in the winter.--George Westaway, Davenport, Ia.

Bicycle-Handle Grip on Rake Handle

By fitting a bicycle handle to the end of a rake handle a grip is provided that is comfortable in the hand when considerable raking is to be done. The sketch shows the grip attached. Several small brads were nailed through the handle and countersunk so as not to injure the hand. This prevented the grip from becoming loosened easily.

Removal Marker for Card Index

A marker which is adapted for use in files of various sizes is shown in the illustration. It may be made easily of medium-weight cardboard, cut to the shape shown in the diagram below and bent as indicated. The marker is inserted at a point in the index from which a card or other filed material has been removed. It is of such a size that, when in use, the tab projects only enough to be recognized, and the marker may be left in the drawer so as to be convenient for future use. The sketch shows the marker partly withdrawn. The small projections shown in the diagram are important in that they act as springs when the marker is in use.--John B. Wade, Wellington, Kan.

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¶Gaskets cut from old inner tubes are satisfactory for water
connections.

Driving Nails to Prevent Splitting

A nail driven so that it crosses the grain, as shown in the sketch, is not likely to split the board through which it passes. The splitting often results when the nail is driven straight. The nail should be started at different angles according to the grain of the wood.--Contributed by Chas. G. England, Washington, Pa.

Feeding Geese in a Poultry Yard

Having four geese in a yard with chickens, I found that the chickens would not allow the geese to pick up the food. To feed the geese I placed the corn in the bottom of a pan and filled it with water. The geese will easily pick up the corn from under the water, where the chickens would not attempt to touch it.--Contributed by Walter L. Kaufmann, Santa Ana, Cal.

Homemade Calipers

A good pair of calipers can be easily and quickly made by anyone in the following manner: Procure a piece of spring wire, about 15 in. long, and bend it as shown in the sketch, allowing the ends to point inward or outward as the style demands. A loop of heavy wire is fastened around the center so that it can be slid back and forth along the wire. This serves the purpose of an adjuster.--Contributed by Stanley Radcliffe, Laurel, Md.

Starting Garden Plants

In starting small plants to get them hardy and ready to plant in the early spring provide separate receptacles of paper, then the plant can be set out without trouble and it will grow as if it had never been moved. Procure some heavy paper and make the cups as shown in the sketch.

The paper is cut into squares, the size depending on the plant, and each square is folded on the dotted line AB. This forms a triangle of a double thickness. The next fold is made on the line CD, bringing the point E over to F. Then the paper is folded over on the line FG, bringing the point H over to C. This will leave a double-pointed end at J. The parts of this point are separated and folded down on the sides which form the cup as shown.

These cups are filled with earth and set into earth placed in a box. The seeds are planted within the cups. When it comes time for transplanting, the cup with the plant is lifted out and set in the garden without damage to the plant roots. The paper soon rots away and gives no trouble to the growing plant.