Chapter XVI: Part II: A Festooned Kite (2)

The canvas sails are 4 by 4 ft., and mounted on the booms, gaffs, and masts. The ends of the booms nearest the masts are weighted with lead, as shown at detail G, and extend beyond the masts. The outer ends of the booms are joined in pairs, and connect to the spring and strap control. The guy wires N, of No. 18 wire, supporting the masts are fixed to the ends of the sail beam and to the ends of the brace beam, as shown in the sketch and the working drawing. The fastening at the ends of the sail beam is made as shown at detail H, which also shows one of the coil springs. All of the braces for the masts should be fitted carefully, so as to have the proper tension without interfering with the action of the sails, before the tower is set into its place. The device should be tested on the ground, with the pivot shaft set in a suitable support, before attempting to mount it on a roof, or other structure. The support for the bearing should be fitted into the roof, as shown. The power from the shaft is transmitted to the bevel gears, and from them to the drive shaft and the belted pulley.

The main tower is supported on the roof by means of strong guy wires, set over four built-up guy towers of 1 by 1-in. wood, and 12 ft. long, as shown in detail L. The towers must be set so that the sail beam has proper play and be secured firmly to the roof. The top of the main tower is fixed to the guy wires by means of a guy plate shown in detail K. A plan of the arrangement of the sail beam, brace beam, and sail booms is shown at detail M. The sail beam is braced by No. 12 guy wires, O, attached at the top of the main tower, at the junction of the two sections of the beam, and similarly at the bottom of the main tower. The fastenings of the wires and braces should be made carefully, and they should be examined thoroughly both before and after the device is mounted in place. Grease the pivoted and other moving parts, and start the device slowly, bringing the sails into the wind as required for the desired speed.

Lawn Benches Made from Old Bedsteads

Old bedsteads were converted into serviceable lawn, or porch, benches, as shown in the photograph reproduced, by the addition of a suitable seat, properly supported. The transformation was a simple one. Only the foot and headpieces of the bedsteads were used. The front legs and other pieces were made from other wood. The front legs are of square stock, about 2¹⁄₂ by 2¹⁄₂ in. The crosspieces, supporting the wide board seats, are mortised into the legs and fastened with glue and screws. The seat is fastened from the under side by cleats. The lumber was carefully planed and sandpapered so that the benches presented a smooth finish when painted green, to match other outdoor furniture.--F. E. Tuck, Nevada City, Calif.

Repairing Wood-Wind Instruments

Wood-wind instruments sometimes “leak” at the joints or keys and make playing of the instrument difficult. Many such instruments are made in sections, with ends that telescope to form a tight fit. This fit is maintained by the use of a cork band cemented around the tenon end of the telescoping joint. The renewal of these cork joints, and the addition of new pads on the keys, will make an old instrument nearly as good as it was when new, so far as playing is concerned, provided the work is correctly done and the wood of the sections themselves has not cracked. Many musicians have spare time and can do this work themselves. The outlay for materials for the job is from 75 cents to $1.00. A small alcohol, or even a kerosene, lamp and an old knife, or old file, are required.

All traces of the old cork on the joint can be removed with sandpaper, leaving it as shown at the left. The cork comes in strips of about the proper thickness, and wide and long enough to allow for trimming. The ends of the strip should be beveled to make a ¹⁄₄-in. lap joint.

A small quantity of the cement is heated over the lamp and six drops poured on the joint; then with the end of the file, which should be heated also, it is spread to give an even, thin coating. The beveled ends of the strip are similarly treated. By working quickly and carefully, the coating on the joint and strip are brought to a plastic state by holding in the flame, and the strip is quickly laid in place. Before the cement has time to harden, press the cork in, forming a neat joint. Bind a rag around the cork, leaving it until the cement is thoroughly set.

The corked joint will be too large to go into the joining section of the instrument. File and sandpaper it to a twisting fit. Though the cork should be truly cylindrical, it may be tapered a trifle smaller at the forward end. A coating of tallow applied to the joint will make it easy-fitting, but air-tight and moisture-proof.

The pads are disks of felt incased in thin sheepskin. After long usage, they become too hard to make an air-tight fit. Repadding should, therefore, be anticipated. Shellac will give good results in putting on pads. It is heated until liquid and poured into the key recess. The new pad is pressed into the liquid shellac, care being taken to have it well centered. For different keys, it will be necessary to use varying quantities of shellac to make the pad sit higher or lower, as required.--Donald A. Hampson, Middletown, N. Y.

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¶A simple method of bracing a screen door is to stretch a stout wire
diagonally across the lower portion of it.

Rustic Trellis to Shade Door or Window

Proper preparation in the early spring will make it possible for the householder to shade doors and windows from the hot summer’s sun by means of inexpensive rustic trellises that add not a little to the beauty of the home. A suggestion for a trellis at a doorway and one for a window are shown in the illustration. They are made of straight tree trunks and small limbs, having the bark on them. The curved portions of the window trellis may be made easily by using twigs that are somewhat green. Morning-glories, or other suitable climbing plants, may be trained over the trellises.--J. G. Allshouse, Avonmore, Pa.

Making Scale Enlargements with a Rubber Band

For reducing or enlarging maps, and similar drawings of irregular design, the device shown in the illustration will replace the ordinary instruments, and enable the draftsman to turn out a given amount of work in much less time than required when proportional dividers are used. The materials needed are an eraser, a rubber band, two pins, two thumb tacks, and a few drops of rubber cement. From the eraser two pieces are cut, as shown in the sketch, about ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₂ by 1¹⁄₄ in. Cut deep slits in each end of these pieces. Insert the end of the rubber band, cut at the splice, in one of these slits and place a thumb tack in the other. A pin is thrust through the eraser and trimmed close, to prevent the thumb tack from tearing the eraser. Cement the slits with rubber cement, and place the assembled device under a book weight, until the cement has set.

Assuming that a contour map is to be enlarged, the rectangular divisions of the original map, ordinarily section lines or the boundaries of quarter sections, are drawn on the larger sheet as a base for the reproduction. Place the device on the original map, as indicated, the edge of the rubber band touching a “horizontal” section line between two “vertical” ones, the rubber band under slight tension. On the black surface of the band, dot white points, with water color, along the section line at which the contour lines intersect it. Also place a dot at each end of the band to indicate the position of the two “vertical” section lines between which the band is set.

Transfer the device to the same relative position on the enlargement, stretching the rubber band. Make dots at each end, denoting the “vertical” section lines, for the corresponding lines on the enlargement. The series of intermediate points along the band will be in the same relative position on the enlargement as they were on the original. They can be connected on the enlargement with as accurate a result as obtained by the use of proportional dividers, and more rapidly.

After the points are indicated upon the enlargement, the reproducing device is removed and the surface of the rubber band cleaned instantly by touching it with a moist cloth. The exposed part of the rubber band is a variable, and the device can be made with this dimension adapted to the work. It is capable of enlarging or reducing at a ratio not greater than six to one, above which the rubber band approaches its elastic limit.--H. L. Wiley, Seattle, Wash.

Signal Telegraph with Green and Red Lights

By arranging a circuit with batteries, lights, and keys, as shown in the diagram, a signal telegraph may be made that will afford much pleasure to boys and may be used for practical purposes. The keys A and B are wired into the circuit with a battery C and a red and a green incandescent lamp. A simple set of signals may be devised easily so that messages may be sent in the code.--James R. Townsend, Itasca, Texas.

A Circular Swing

BY DAVIS FOSS GETCHELL

While on the farm I constructed a circular swing which proved very attractive to my boys and their friends. By its side, and suspended from the same tree branch, was an ordinary swing. During the eight weeks of our stay the latter was seldom in use. The circular swing was a far greater favorite with all the young people, boys and girls alike.

Around a branch of a large elm and 18 or 20 ft. from the tree trunk was looped a 10-ft. length of chain and to the hanging end of this was made fast a 1-in. rope nearly 10 ft. longer than was needed to reach the ground. Directly beneath the point where the chain went around the limb, as determined by a plumb bob, was set a 6-in. piece of cedar post 3¹⁄₂ ft. into the ground. This was sawed off square 2¹⁄₂ ft. above the ground. Into the top of this post was set a ¹⁄₂-in. rod, to serve as a pivot for the swing. It was set in firmly about 6 in. and projected about 3 in. from the top of the post.

A straight-grained piece of pine board, 15 ft. long, 8 in. wide, and 1 in. thick, was procured and a hole bored in one end large enough to make it turn freely on the pin in the upper end of the post. Two holes were bored in the other end of the board large enough to admit the rope. The first hole was 6 in. from the end, and the second hole, 3 ft. The hanging end of the rope was passed down through one of these holes and back up through the other and then made fast to itself about 3 ft. above the board after the board had been adjusted so that it would swing throughout its length at the height of the post, or 2¹⁄₂ ft. from the ground. The swing was then complete except for a swivel, which was put in the rope within easy reach of one standing on the board, so that it could be oiled.

One good push would send the board with a boy on the end three or four times about the 90-ft. circle. The little fellows would like to get hold of the board in near the post and shove it around. Once started, it could be kept going with very little effort.

In putting up such a swing, make sure to have the post set solidly in the ground, as it has a tendency to work loose. Tie all the knots tightly. Do not look upon the swivel as unnecessary. The first swing I put up was without one, and the rope twisted off in a few days.

It is not necessary to climb a tree; just throw a stout cord over the limb by means of a stone or nut tied to the end, then haul the rope and chain up over the limb with the cord. Before the chain leaves the ground loop the end of it and pass the cord through the loop. The higher the limb from the ground the better the swing will work, but 25 ft. will be about right.

Hand-Operated Motorboat Whistle

Anyone with a power boat can construct a blower for the whistle very cheaply. The whistle is attached to a suitable length of pipe, threaded on each end. The blower is made of two white-pine boards, 1 in. thick, cut as shown at A; a thin piece of leather is cut like the pattern B, to form the bellows part, and after it is shaped, the edges of the boards are glued and the leather placed in position, where it is fastened with tacks driven in about 1 in. apart. The bellows are fastened to the under side of a seat with screws, and a tension spring is attached to the bottom of the bellows and the floor of the boat. A cord is fastened to the lower board of the bellows and run up through to the cabin roof over suitable pulleys to a handle within convenient reach of the operator.--Contributed by John I. Somers, Pleasantville, N. J.

Filling In Broken Places on Enamel

Ordinary putty will not do to fill in cracks or broken spots on an enameled surface, such as a clockface. Fine sealing wax is much better, as it hardens at once, takes color without absorbing the oil, and does not shrink like putty. Use a wax of the proper color to match the surface as closely as possible. Fit it in and smooth with a warm, flexible piece of metal, such as a palette knife. Give it one or two coats of thin color to exactly match the other surface, and varnish. If the article has not a high polish, the gloss of the varnish can be cut a little with pumice stone.

BY R. E. EDWARDS]

“Step right up; three twisting thrillers for a penny--a tenth of a dime!” was the familiar invitation which attracted customers to the delights of a homemade merry-go-round of novel design. The patrons were not disappointed, but came back for more. The power for the whirling thriller is produced by the heavy, twisted rope, suspended from the limb of a tree, or other suitable support. The rope is cranked up by means of the notched disk A, grasped at the handle B, the car being lifted off. The thriller is stopped when the brakeplate I rests on the weighted box L.

Manila rope, ³⁄₄ in. or more in diameter, is used for the support, and is rigged with a spreader, about 2 ft. long, at the top, as shown. The disk is built up of wood, as detailed, and notches, C, provided for the ropes. The rope is wound up and the car is suspended from it by the hook, which should be strong, and deep enough so that it cannot slip out, as indicated at H.

The car is made of a section of 2 by 4-in stuff, D, 10 ft. long, to which braces, E, of 1 by 4-in. stuff are fastened with nails or screws. The upper ends of the pieces E are blocked up with the centerpiece F, nailed securely, and the wire link G is fastened through the joint.

The seats J are suspended at the ends of the 2 by 4-in. bar, with their inner ends lower, as shown, to give a better seating when the thriller is in action. The seats are supported by rope or strap-iron brackets, K, set 15 in. apart. The box should be high enough so that the seats do not strike the ground.

Kinks for the Talking Machine

When short of fiber needles or when the jewel needle has broken, file down the tooth of a bone comb to the required point, and it will serve well. If the needle arm becomes loosened from the diaphragm, and no wax is handy, a bit of soft chewing gum makes an excellent temporary repair. Use a magnet to pick up steel needles from the receptacles on the machine, to save time and avoid punctured fingers. If the machine is too loud for the room, placing a piece of loose cotton in the tone arm, directly behind the reproducer, is more effective than muffling the sound at the horn end.--L. B. Robbins, Attleboro, Mass.

A Wire-Walking Toy

A daring wire-walking performer who, unmindful of the fact that a misstep may mean destruction, keeps on going, back and forth, so long as the motor runs, or the crank is turned, is a toy that boys can make easily. The wire is stretched, not across Broadway, but between two 1 by 1-in. standards, held upright by guy cords, or fixed to a baseboard. They are fitted with forked tops, at A and B, and pulley wheels, C and D. A wire, F, is fastened to two of the prongs, at E, and a black thread, G, runs over the pulley wheels. A carriage, I, is formed from a 12-in. length of stiff wire, and weighted, at L, to balance upon the tight wire. The figure K is cut from stiff paper, and made to turn upon the carriage upright J, and braced with thread, at H. Thus the figure is always drawn forward, revolving on the support J at the end of each trip. Power to turn the thread is transmitted from a hand crank or motor, M, by means of the double pulley wheel at D.--Edward R. Smith, Walla Walla, Washington.

Double Roofs Provide Ideal Shade for Poultry Coops

Having no native shade in our city chicken yard, we noticed one summer that the hens, especially those in the low brooder coops, became droopy and exhausted from the excessive heat. We studied the construction of the U. S. Weather Bureau thermometer shelter, which usually stands out in the sun, and is no larger than our brooder coops. It has a double roof with free air-circulation space between the roofs, hence the inclosed thermometers are exposed to a true-shade temperature. We then placed an extra roof on each of the brooder coops, leaving a 6-in. open air space between, the top roof being supported at the corners only. The arrangement proved so effective that the hens sought the coops, against the heat of unventilated inclosures on quiet, hot days.--J. Cecil Alter, Cheyenne, Wyo.

An Illuminated Indicating Target Box

The joys of target practice are often hampered by the delays in the settlement of hits. It takes time and is annoying to be constantly advancing to the target to examine it. To do away with this, an illuminated target was constructed that enables the shooter to locate every hit without leaving his post. To make the device, a square wooden box of convenient size is obtained. In one side of this, cut a round hole as large as the largest ring on the targets used. The side opposite this is fitted with a piece of sheet iron to stop the bullets. Paint this iron and the interior white. Inside the box, arrange four electric lights so their rays will be thrown on the hole, as shown. Candles may be used, if necessary. The lamps must be out of range of the bullets, that hit the target, and protected by an iron plate. The targets, painted on thin paper, are fastened over the front of the hole, and the lights are on, while shooting. Each shot punctures the paper, and the light streaming through the hole will show the location of the hit.--Thomas W. Benson, Philadelphia, Pa.

Kinks in Washing Photographic Negatives and Prints

Photographic defects, spots, stains, etc., are often due to inadequate washing. In the common method of washing negatives or prints under the tap, in a dish, the water is not changed quickly enough. If the negatives are placed film downward and supported at the edges, the washing is quicker and more thorough. Films as well as glass negatives are in the same class in the matter of washing. Films should not stick together, and the sharp edges must not be permitted to cause scratches.

Bird House Made of an Old Straw Hat

A bird house of an old straw hat is a practical and easily contrived affair. Cut a hole in the crown of the hat. Then nail the hat against a board of proper size. To protect the hat against the rain, put a roof over it, as shown. A perch is also provided. Such a bird house can be hung against the trunk of a tree, or nailed against a wall. Leaving the hat in its natural straw color, and painting the rest a dark brown, produces a satisfactory effect.--C. L. Meller, Fargo, N. D.

Camp Shelter Affords Protection from Mosquitoes

When it is undesirable to stay in a camping tent, on warm nights or during the day when a siesta is taken, a mosquito shelter can be made of materials readily available at most camping places. The arrangement, as shown, is made as follows: Procure a number of pliable switches, about ³⁄₄ in. in diameter, and 8 or 10 ft. long, willow or similar growths. Sharpen the butts, and force them into the ground in two rows, 3¹⁄₂ ft. apart. Bend the tops together, and tie them in arches of the same height, as indicated. Next, tie a ridge binder the entire length. Cover the frame with mosquito netting, providing an entrance at one end. The shelter shown is for one person, but may easily be made larger. The fly, supported on a rope between posts or trees, affords shade.--J. T. Trammell, Milwaukee, Wis.

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¶The annoyance of a chair rocking on a bare floor, especially a
child’s rocking chair, may be overcome by tacking sections of garden
hose along the curved rockers. If properly done this also adds to the
comfort of the chair.

Rustic Well for a Bazaar or Fair Booth

A feature of a bazaar which attracted much attention was a rustic well from which a pretty girl dipped cool drinks with the aid of an “old oaken bucket.” The arrangement may also be used at an outdoor fair or lawn party.

A corner of the room was marked off by a rail fence and turnstile. The floor was covered with green cloth and green excelsior, for grass. The well was constructed as shown in the detail sketch. Half of a barrel, B, with the head removed, was inverted, and a mirror, C, was set in a shallow pan of water on the floor. The pan was surrounded with pebbles, D, and a framework, E, built over the barrel. The supply of lemonade was kept cool in the tub G, behind the partition. When the bucket A was lowered into the well, by means of the sweep, it was filled by pouring the beverage in the trough F. The bucket was then raised and the drinks served from it, a cocoanut-shell dipper being used.

So many persons became curious to learn how the well was constructed, that an admission fee was charged to pass the turnstile, and the reward was a peep at the reflection in the mirror at the bottom of the well.--Susan E. W. Jocelyn, New Haven, Conn.

Novel Masks for Printing Pictures

In printing pictures, I have made use of various masks, and those suited to the particular picture, for some special reason, have proved especially popular. For instance, in making a picture for a contractor and mason, a mask in the shape of a trowel was used; for a policeman, a star; an automobile for the motorist. Sometimes the special interests of persons in a picture, or the background, will suggest good outlines for masks.--Russell Waldo, Indianapolis, Ind.

Sheet-Metal Stand for Flatiron

Considerable energy is consumed in lifting a heavy flatiron to the stand which protects the ironing board. The device shown in the illustration was made to overcome this objection to most flatiron stands and proved efficient as well as easy to make. The iron is shoved onto the stand at one end, provided with an incline. The layout for the sheet metal is shown in detail. The piece A is cut 4¹⁄₂ by 9 in., and the stop B, the incline C, and the leg D, are cut as shown, and bent to shape The stand is fastened near the end of the ironing board by means of screws.--Ernest Ward, Detroit, Mich.

Water-Coasting Toboggan and Slide

BY D. J. HOUGH

Coasting down an incline and being projected through the air to plunge into the warm water of a summer lake, or other outdoor bathing spot, has thrills and excitement that appeal to the person seeking a new aquatic diversion. The illustration shows a slide, and the toboggan sled for use on it, that were built by a group of young men at a summer resort. While the slide shown is perhaps more extensive than most boys would care to undertake, the principle involved may be adapted easily to others one-fourth as long, less than 20 ft. The slide shown was strongly built of 2 by 4-in. material for the framework, 2 by 6-in. planks for the slide guides, and 2 by 12-in. planks for the bearing for the roller. Lighter material may be used for the guides and the roller bearing on a smaller slide, but the framework should be of 2 by 4-in. stock.

The high end of the slide illustrated is about 7 ft. from the ground, but a proportionately greater incline is provided because the beach slopes gradually to the water’s edge. It is reached by a ladder fixed to a tree, which acts as an end brace for the slide. If no such natural support is available, the end of the slide must be strongly braced on three sides, to insure safety. It is inadvisable to build the slide unduly high to provide the necessary incline since this may result in accidents. A location where the ground is suitable should be selected rather than assume danger or risk.

The end of the slide nearest the water may be given a slight upward turn, so that when the toboggan leaves it the rider is carried upward before striking the water. The hold on the toboggan should be retained when entering the water, as injury may result by failure to clear it in the plunge. With experience a dive may be made as the toboggan leaves the slide.

The construction of the slide is shown in detail in the lower sketch. The framework of 2 by 4-in. material should be only slightly wider than the guides, and the supports should be spread toward the ground to give rigidity. The supports A should be nailed firmly, or bolted, to the horizontal members B. If lighter stock is used, the pieces at B should be nailed in pairs, one on each side of the uprights. The guides C and D should be of smooth lumber, and the edges of these pieces, as well as of the bearing plank E, should be rounded off to remove splinters. The joints in the sections of the guides should be made carefully and placed over the framework supports. They should be reinforced from the lower side by plates of wood.

The bearing plank E is of 2-in. stock and 12 in. wide. It may be made of lighter material in a smaller slide. The joints in it should likewise be made carefully, to insure smooth riding over them. They should be set directly over the framework supports, but not on those over which joints have been made in the guides. The plank forming the bearing for the roller should not extend to the end of the slide at the lower end, but should be set back about 18 in. This permits the toboggan to slide off smoothly rather than to spring directly into the air from the bearing on the rollers. The bearing plank may be nailed into place, but care must be taken to set all nails below the surface. A better construction is to use screws or bolts. Bore holes for them through the plank, countersinking their heads.

The toboggan, as shown in the detail sketches, is built strongly, and is to be fitted over the 12-in. bearing plank, allowing ¹⁄₄-in. play on each side. The sides are of 1¹⁄₄-in. stock and high enough to accommodate the rollers, which should be about 3 in. in diameter. The dimensions of 15 in. in width and 30 in. in length, on the top surface, are suggestive only, and will vary with the materials used. The toboggan will not stand the necessarily hard wear unless good-quality oak, or other hard wood, is used. The top and foot brace should be fixed strongly with screws, their heads countersunk.

The rollers are fixed in the sides by means of screws, or a bolt may be set through the length of the roller. In either case the bearing should be in holes bored through the sidepieces. Washers should be fitted at the sides of the bearings, and the latter must be kept greased. All the edges and corners of the toboggan should be rounded off so that there is little possibility of injury from slivers or contact with the edges.

Tile Trap for Rabbits

Rabbits may be trapped in order to rid grounds of them, or for food purposes, by the use of the tile trap shown in the illustration. A tee, having a smaller opening of 6 in., is set in the ground with the large end projecting. Rocks are placed around it and it is provided with a cover. Several extensions are attached to the 6-in. opening and the end permitted to project slightly from the ground. Rocks are also placed about this opening. The rabbit enters the trap at the small opening and is free to come and go from the burrow. By closing the small opening, the quarry may be taken out at the large opening.

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¶Vaseline is a good cleaner for commutators while machines are in
operation and under load.

A Woodsman’s Log Raft

BY A. M. PARKER

Making a raft for crossing a stream, or other small body of water, is often a diversion for campers, who have the usual supply of camp tools and materials. The woodsman is sometimes confronted with a different situation: He has only a hand ax as his tool equipment, and to construct a fairly safe raft of crude materials becomes necessary in order to pursue his course. Logs are readily available, and he may be fortunate enough to find willow withes, various stringy kinds of bark, or even coarse seaweed. If these are not available, the practical woodsman, particularly of the northern regions, builds a raft of logs, pinned together firmly with poles and pointed wooden spikes, cut on the spot. The method, as shown in the illustration, is simple and interesting. It may be of service in the woods even when other methods of binding the logs into a raft are possible, and as a practical test of woodcraft for the amateur or boy camper it is of interest. The sketch shows the completed raft, bound together by wooden pins notched into poles, and the inset details show the manner in which the poles are clamped by the crossed pins.

This method of construction may be applied to a variety of rafts, for carrying small or large loads. In selecting the material for the raft several points must be considered. Dry logs are preferable to wet or green ones, and if the latter are used, a relatively larger raft will be needed to carry a certain load. For one passenger, three logs, 9 to 12 in. in diameter, 12 to 16 ft. long, and spaced to a width of 5 ft., will provide a stable raft. Poles may be laid across it to give sufficient footing. For heavier loads the logs should be about the same length and diameter, but spaced closer together, and laid to form a raft of considerable width and of greater buoyancy.

Select a shore, sloping gently into the water, if possible, and cut the logs and poles as near this place as is convenient. Cut the logs and roll, them to the bank, alternating the butts, if there is any considerable difference in the diameter of the ends. Cut a supply of poles of about 3-in. diameter, and of the length necessary to reach across the proposed raft. Then cut a number of pins of hard wood, 1 ft. long, and sharpened on one end, as shown in the detailed sketch.

Roll the first log--one of the largest--into the water until it is nearly floating. If it is bowed or crooked, place the “humped” side toward the outer edge of the raft. Chop notches, 2 in. deep, in the top of the log about 1¹⁄₂ ft. from the ends, and squarely across. Place a pole in the notch, with its end projecting slightly beyond the log, and cut a double notch in the upper edge of the pole, as shown in the detail sketches, so that when the pins are driven into the log, they will rest diagonally in the notches cut into the poles. Make rifts in the log with the ax, cutting as though to split off a slab of bark and wood, rather than toward the center of the log, and drive two of the pins into place. Properly done, this will make a remarkably strong joint. Fasten a second pole at the other end of the log, and prop up both poles so as to permit the next log to be rolled into the water, under the poles.

Notch the second log before slipping it finally into place. Alternate ends only, of the inner logs, need be fastened, and if time is important, some of the logs may be left unfastened, provided they are held tightly between the logs that are pinned. Shove the raft out into the water as each log is added. If there is a strong current it is desirable to guy the raft with a pole to the bank, downstream. The last log, which should also be a large one, is then floated down and pinned at both ends.

The raft may then be floated, and is ready to be covered with light poles or brush, to provide a dry footing and a place for the dunnage. The dunnage is placed near the forward end of the raft, and the person controlling it sculls with a pole at the rear.

Curved Printing Surface for Sharp Focus in Bromide Enlargements

Practically all of my negatives are of post-card size, and, in making bromide enlargements, I experienced difficulty in getting a satisfactory focus on 6 by 10-in. or 8 by 12-in. prints. When the center of the picture was in focus the outer portions were usually blurred, and vice versa. Compromising between the two gave unsatisfactory results. By providing a curved surface, on which the bromide paper is mounted, results were obtained that are satisfactory except for architectural subjects. A wooden box was made as long as the desired print and 1 in. wider. The height may be made as is convenient, but a height of about 2 in. is satisfactory. A partition was fitted into the box, dividing its length into two compartments. The upper edges of the center partition and the ends of the box were cut in the shape of an arc, the curve being determined by the distance from the lens to the easel when the center of the picture is in focus. The bromide paper is fitted to the curves on the box. The device is fitted to the easel by means of two strips fixed to the bottom of the box, and extending beyond its ends. The curved surface may be covered with cardboard to give a better backing for the bromide paper, which is held in place by pins or small tacks. Where only a small portion of the negative is to be enlarged, this difficulty will not present itself, the flat surface being satisfactory.--Victor Woodland, Denver, Colo.

Playing Talking-Machine Records with the Finger Nail

Talking-machine records may be played with the finger nail, and a person skilled in the process can afford a party of spectators much amusement, creating no little surprise. The record is placed over a penholder, or pencil, and supported by the left hand as shown in the sketch. It is revolved by the fingers of the left hand, and the nail of the second finger of the right hand is applied to the record. Practice is required to obtain satisfactory results and an old record should be used.--George S. Nissen, Chicago, Ill.

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¶Finely powdered graphite dusted on the parts of a motorcycle clutch
when repacking it after cleaning will act as an excellent lubricant.

Safety Chopping Block

Chopping of pieces of wood, which must be broken into short lengths, is often dangerous. The chopping block shown in the illustration was designed to overcome this element of danger and it may be used for chopping small kindling wood as well as for breaking up heavier pieces. When the blow is struck on the wood to be broken the pieces are thrown away from the person chopping. The sketch shows the device in use for the chopping of short pieces of wood, and the heavy portion may be used as a seat. The smaller sketch shows how the block is built up of 2-in. planks, bolted together--A. S. Thomas, Amherstburg, Canada.

Repairing a Broken Reed Handle

A strong repair for a broken reed handle, like those on market baskets, handbags, or workbaskets, may be made by joining the broken parts with a ferrule of tinned sheet metal, brads or wire being used to prevent the ends from working loose. After the metal fitting has been made, the handle is rewound with the ends of the material unwound from it, or if desirable, the entire handle may be re-covered with material of the original kind or other suitable substitute.--R. E. Brown, Portland, Ore.

Duck Decoys Mounted on Folding Frame

The duck hunter who wishes to economize by making some of his equipment will be interested in the folding frame for duck decoys, shown in the illustration. It is made of two strips, ³⁄₄ in. by 2 in. by 3 ft. 6 in., of soft wood, and fitted with a bolt at the middle, so that it may be folded, for convenience in carrying. The decoys are cut from a sheet of tinned metal, and are painted to resemble the game.--Carl A. Haberlein, McPherson, Kan.

Onlaying Script on a Trophy Cup

A novel method of inscribing names or other indications on trophy cups or medallions is to onlay copper, or other contrasting metal, upon the surface by the process illustrated. Beeswax, or paraffin, is fixed to the side of the cup and formed into a dish shape, the surface on which the onlaying is to be done being covered with only a thin layer of the wax. With a needle or other suitable instrument, scratch the markings desired through the thin layer of wax to the surface of the cup. Pour copper sulphate into the wax cavity if the onlay is to be of copper, and suspend a small piece of pure copper in the liquid, connected with the positive pole of a storage battery, or other similar electrical source. Attach a wire from the negative pole of the battery to the cup. The copper will be deposited on the surface of the cup where the thin layer of wax has been scratched off, exposing the metal. The thickness of the deposit will depend on the length of time that the current is permitted to flow. Ten hours of action will permit the depositing of a satisfactory onlay.--M. H. Edwards.

Economy in Motorcycle Tires

Caution in the use of motorcycle tires with a minimum of abuse will result in a considerable tire saving. Tremendous wear on a single spot results when the power is thrown in so suddenly that the driving wheel makes several revolutions before gripping the ground. The proper air pressure must be maintained in the tires in order to obtain good wear. Guessing is a poor method of determining the air pressure and the exact condition should be noted from time to time with a gauge. Ordinarily, a pressure of 45 to 50 lb should be maintained in the rear tire and about 20 per cent less in the front tire, in the case of 3-in. tires. Rim cutting from running motorcycle tires underinflated is the commonest abuse. Dents in the edge of the rims cause undue wear on the tire, the fabric being worn through by the constant rubbing. Bent rims are often caused by insufficient air pressure in tires, the liability to injury being increased when crossing tracks or bumps with an improperly inflated tire.

A Knock-Down Tennis-Court Backstop

BY EDWARD R. SMITH

Severe weather soon damages a tennis-court backstop that is built on posts set in the ground, and permitted to remain in place during the winter. The backstop shown in the illustration was designed to overcome this objection, and proved efficient on this score, as well as economical to build and maintain. Instead of setting the supports in the ground, they are set on the ground, and guyed by a system of wire braces. The wire netting is also held taut by wire braces, and the entire rigging is quickly taken down for storage, and easily set up when needed again. The lower edge of the wire is held down by hooks pinned to the ground with tent stakes, making it convenient to unhook the netting when the grass is to be cut around the backstop. The towers are 50 ft. apart, about 14 ft. high, and built up of 4 by 4-in. and 2 by 4-in. pieces of sound yellow-pine timber.

Foundations of brick, anchored into the ground, were made for the towers. End braces of heavy wire, fastened to the top, and guyed to the sunken anchors at the ground, support the towers against the weight of the netting and wire rigging. This is convenient in setting up the arrangement, as a ladder can be leaned against the end of the tower, guyed securely. To withstand side motion at the top edge of the netting, the supporting wires are carried on crossarms of 1 by 1-in. pieces of wood, 2 ft. long. This rigging is suspended between the towers and wired to the netting. When this is drawn up tightly, the netting is fairly taut. Additional supporting wires, with vertical leaders to the netting, are used to draw up the entire length of the netting tautly, as desired.

The netting extends under the towers, and is supported there by wires. As the netting extends nearly to the end guy wires, players cannot be harmed easily by running into the wires particularly if a white flag is attached to the guy wires, about 6 ft. from the ground. Number 20 gauge wire was used for the supporting cables, and No. 9 for the end braces extending to the anchored fastenings.

A Folding Ground Seat with Back Rest

Those who enjoy sitting or lying upon the grass while reading will find the device shown in the illustration convenient and comfortable. With this, one may enjoy the coolness of the ground without harm to the person or clothing. The adjustable back rest supports the body in various positions. The device is light, compact, and readily transported. It is useful also in the home and elsewhere. By placing it across the bed, or on a trunk, a good substitute for an extra chair is provided. The seat proper may be folded under and the back rest used as a prop for reading in bed.

Oak is a suitable wood, and other common woods may be used. First construct, according to the dimensions given, three rectangular frames, with mortise-and-tenon joints. Cover the seat and back frames with heavy duck, turning it in ¹⁄₂ in. at the edges. The base is an open frame, provided with adjusting notches, spaced 2 in apart. Next make the adjusting frame, as detailed. Hinge the back and the seat to the base, and fasten the adjusting frame to the back with screws, permitting it to fold, as shown.--T. H. Linthicum, Annapolis, Md.

Bicycle Carried on Automobile as Tender

Steam yachts often carry a motorboat tender, and an automobile may carry a bicycle for emergencies. An autoist whose duties require him to travel through rural districts, had numerous unhappy experiences with a stalled car until he hit upon this scheme. The bicycle is strapped on the running board of the car, its handlebars turned flat against the side, and its wheels in tire sockets in the running board. A tank in the bicycle frame holds several gallons, and if the owner runs out of gasoline, he uses the tender to get a supply, filling the auto tank by siphoning the gasoline through a flexible tube.--John Miller Bonbright, Philadelphia, Pa.

Heater Keeps Developer at Proper Temperature

Having had trouble with developer cooling down and failing to work properly, while developing in the dark room, I constructed the apparatus shown. A small light-tight box was made slightly larger than the tray, with a removable top having an opening to hold the tray. An electric-light socket was fastened inside at one end of the box and a lamp fitted to it. A wire was attached across the middle of the lower side of the box, so that the latter and the tray could be rocked. The box was lined with black paper and varnished black. The edges of the opening in the top were fringed with felt to guard against light leakage. A thermometer is used to determine the temperature. When the developer cools, turn on the light until it reaches the required temperature.--John Hoeck, Alameda, California.

Steam-Propelled Motorcycle Made by Mechanic

BY L. L. VOELEHERT

As an example of the application of steam power to the propulsion of a vehicle, the motorcycle shown in the illustration is interesting. While it does not embody the many refinements of gasoline motorcycles manufactured commercially, and makes no pretense of competing with them, the machine has a striking individuality. It was made by a mechanic in his spare time, with only the facilities of a small machine shop. Tests and hard usage over typical roads have shown it to be easy riding, partly by reason of its weight, and to give very steady power. The machine can be reversed quickly and no clutch is used. It has a wheel base of 75 in., and weighs about 350 pounds.

The upper portions of the frame are made of 1-in. steel tubing, strongly riveted at the fork and other joints. The lower section, from the fork to the rear axle, is made of a double bar of 1¹⁄₂ by ¹⁄₂-in. steel, spread and braced to carry the tank, engine, and boiler. The fork is forged from strips of steel, and fitted to standard motorcycle wheels. The handlebars, seat, transmission chains and gears, as well as other fittings, are of the ordinary motorcycle type. The seat may be moved and clamped at various places along the upper bar of the frame, and an extra seat may be installed, or a bundle carrier may be fitted behind the driver.

Gasoline, with which to heat water for the generation of steam, is carried in the long round tank, hung below the frame at the top. The water supply is contained in the square flat tank under the lower part of the frame. The engine is supported on the frame immediately above the water tank, and drives a shaft, which is geared to the rear wheel by a chain and sprocket.

The round boiler, with gasoline burners beneath it, is carried on the lower part of the frame, which is spread, immediately behind the front wheel. The boiler is 16 in. in diameter and 12 in. high. It is fitted with valves, whistle, water gauge, and the usual fittings of a boiler. The engine is of the horizontal type, and the working parts are largely inclosed, so as to protect them from dust and to avoid possible danger to the operator.

Sideboard Converted into Kitchenette

Living in rooms, in which it was necessary to use the small living room as a kitchen and dining room as well, the storage of the cooking equipment became a problem. It was unsightly in the room when not in use, and there was no convenient place in which to store it out of sight. The kitchenette, shown in the sketch, was made from an old sideboard, and served the purpose admirably, being useful also for other needs.

The top was removed and hinged to one end, the supports being removable, for storing them in the cabinet. The hinged top provided a support for the dishes while cooking. The partition between the top drawers was removed and the fronts of the drawers fastened in place with screws. The space thus made available was lined with asbestos, and a small gas stove was fitted into it. The gas line was connected to the stove and two pieces of asbestos sheeting were hinged to fold under the cover and to be leaned against the wall as a protection while cooking. The top could be hinged at the back to protect the wall, or cut in two and the parts hinged one at each end of the cabinet. The lower drawers of the kitchenette were fitted to hold the cooking materials and equipment.

When the kitchenette is closed it is useful as a stand or table, for dining, or for other purposes, including ironing. In the latter operation, it is often desirable to have the hinged top open to give free access around the end of the top.--J. S. Hagans, Toledo, Ohio.

Bee Feeder for Winter Use

The use of a feeder, like that shown in the sketch, makes the feeding of bees in winter convenient. Sirup is fed to the bees from inverted glass jars, the openings of which are covered with muslin, the jars being incased in a packing of chaff in a wooden covering. The wooden box is made to fit over the hive, as shown in the sketch, and a 2-in. strip is nailed over the joint.

The device is made as follows: Use wood smoothed on both sides; pine basswood, or other soft wood being satisfactory. Make two pieces, ⁷⁄₈ in. thick, and the same size as the top of the hive. Into one of these cut two round holes, as shown, to fit the necks of the jars. Make two pieces, 6³⁄₄ in. wide, for the sides, and two for the ends, the length being suited to the hive, the dimensions given in the sketch being suggestive only. Make four strips, 2 in. wide, and long enough to fit the four sides of the box. Nail the pieces of the box together, as shown, nailing the sides over the end pieces, and the top over the frame of sides and ends. Pack chaff into the box, and, after filling the jars with sirup and covering their openings with muslin, pack the jars into the box so that their openings will be level with the bottom through which the holes have been cut. Fasten the board, with holes for the jars, into place with screws, so that it may be removed when it is desired to remove the jars for refilling. Nail the 2-in. strips around the lower edge of the box so as to cover the joint between the box and the hive. The feeder is then fitted into place, the bees feeding from the surface of the muslin. The chaff prevents the sirup from congealing in cold weather and so it is always available for the bees. The use of this simple device will prove economical and practical in keeping bees over the winter, assuring them a good food supply, with little effort on the part of the keeper.--Gus Hansen, Peachland, B. C., Can.

Kink for Driving Nails

Nails, or spikes, may be driven into hard wood without causing them to buckle by applying a coating of vaseline, beeswax, and rosin, mixed in equal portions. A convenient method of applying the mixture is to bore a hole in the end of the hammer handle and fill it with the material. The nails may be pressed into the hole to coat them.--O. Root, Lorain, Ohio.

Porch Gate Folds into Hollow Pillar