Chapter VIII: Part III: Fitting a Motor into a Paddling Canoe

A stanchly built canoe of sufficient length and beam may be converted into a light, serviceable, and convenient power boat by the installation of a light-weight motor of about 2 hp. While the craft thus becomes less available for shallow waters and cannot be used so readily on trips where portages are necessary, a power canoe has advantages in that longer trips may be undertaken with less regard for weather conditions. Greater speed and the fact that physical power need not be expended also increase the value and range of operations of such a craft.

Unless a motor of extremely light weight is procured, a canoe of frail construction and less than 16 ft. long is not likely to stand the jar of the driving mechanism. The canoe illustrated in the page plate is 18 ft. long, of 36-in. beam, and strongly planked, decked, and braced. A canoe of even broader beam would tend to give more stability in rough water, and if it is desired to transport heavy camping packs, or other material, in the craft, this factor should be observed particularly. Likewise, the depth and draft must be considered, as the carrying capacity and seaworthiness of a canoe depend in part on these factors. The fitting of the various parts of the mechanism and accessories must be done with the aim of balancing the load evenly. If properly disposed, the weight of these parts should tend to lower the center of gravity of the canoe, thus rendering it more stable.

The actual work of installing the motor and fittings should be preceded by careful planning and the making of a full-size diagram of the stern portion of the canoe as rebuilt. Too much care cannot be taken in this work, as, if it is neglected, the craft may be rendered unsafe, or the motor and fittings may not operate satisfactorily. The motor should be set in the stern, as shown in the illustration, as this will permit the use of a minimum of shafting and other fittings which must be accommodated. The exact location of the motor may vary with canoes and engines of different types. This should be tested out by placing the motor in the canoe and noting the effect on its balance in the water. For a canoe of the dimensions indicated, and a light-weight motor, 5 ft. from the stern is a satisfactory position. The motor should be placed as low in the canoe as possible, allowing the flywheel and crank case sufficient clearance below.

A convenient method of operation is as follows: Place the canoe on boxes, or sawhorses, taking care that it is properly supported about 2 ft. from the ground, or floor. Take measurements directly from the canoe, or part to be fitted, whenever convenient. Procure two sheets of paper, 30 in. wide and 7 ft. long; mark one “diagram” and the other “templates,” and use the former for the full-size detail and the other for the making of templates for curved or irregular parts.

Begin the diagram by drawing the base line AB, Fig. 3. This is the lower line of the engine bed and the upper surface of the ribs. Draw the line CD perpendicular to the base line, and 18 in. from the left end of the sheet. The point C is the center of the stern end of the driving shaft. The dimensions of parts are not given, except in special instances, since they must be obtained from the particular canoe and other parts entering into the construction. Indicate the layer of ribs E, the planking F, and the keel G. Using the template sheet, cut a template or pattern for the curved stern. This may be readily and accurately done by fixing a straightedge to the keel and permitting it to extend to A. Rest the long edge of the sheet on the straightedge when fitting the template to the curve. Use the template as a guide in marking the curve on the diagram, as at HJ. The curve K, of the stern decking, may be indicated similarly.

Determine the distance the motor is to be set from the stern and indicate it by the perpendicular line L. Measuring from the base line, indicate the height of the center of the motor shaft from the floor, as at M. This should be made as low as possible, permitting sufficient clearance for the flywheel and the crank case. Draw a straight line from C to M, which will thus indicate the center line of the driving shaft. This line is fundamental in determining the dimensions and placing of certain parts and fittings, and should be established with extreme care. The size and exact position of the engine bed N may now be indicated. Its dimensions, given in detail in the perspective sketch, Fig. 5, are suggestive only. They may be varied in order to provide proper bearing on the floor, and so that the bolts holding the bed may pass through ribs. The cross brace at the forward end is important, and should be fitted carefully over a rib. The upper line of the engine bed must not be confounded with the center line of the shaft, for in many engines they are on a horizontal line when viewed from the forward end, yet not necessarily so. The slant of the engine bed must be made accurately, as any deflection from the angle of the center line of the shaft will disarrange the installation.

The shaft log O may next be indicated and a template made for use in guiding the bit when boring the hole for the shaft through it. The template used for the curve HJ may be altered by drawing the shaft log on it at the proper place. The point P, from which the bit is to be started when the shaft log is fixed into place, should be indicated and the center line of the shaft extended to Q, may then be used as a guide for the bit. If the homemade type of bearing R is used, it should be indicated on the diagram. A metal bearing may be made, or a suitable one obtained from dealers in marine hardware. In the latter case it will probably be necessary to block up the bottom of the canoe in order to provide a flat, horizontal bearing surface for the bearing flange.

The rudder and other parts, which are not directly connected with the motive-power unit, may be indicated in detail on the diagram or be made from sketches of a smaller scale. Paper patterns, made full size, offer a convenient method of outlining the parts of the engine bed, the rudder, and other irregular pieces. When the diagram is complete, measurements may be transferred directly from it without reducing them to figures, and, wherever possible, parts should be fitted to it.

The shaft log, shaft bearing, and engine bed may be made of oak, or other strong hard wood. It will be found desirable to have the engine bed complete before an attempt is made to fit the shaft and its connections. It is made of 1¹⁄₂-in. stock, bolted together with lag screws and fixed firmly into the canoe with bolts. The heads of the bolts should be provided with cotton and red-lead packing, and care should be taken that the bolts pass through ribs.

The shaft log should be fixed into place before it is bored. Bolts may be passed through it and fastened on the inside if there is room for drawing up the nuts in the stern. Large screws may be used to aid in the fastening and smaller screws may be used from the inside. The lower rudder support will also aid in holding the log in place, and the iron straps S, Fig. 3, will insure its rigidity. This is an important point in the construction, as if the log is not fixed positively, the thrashing of the propeller will soon loosen it.

FIG. 2

FIG. 3

FIG. 4

FIG. 5

A Light-Weight, Two-Horsepower Motor Installed in a Stanch 18-Foot Canoe will Increase the Range and Utility of Such a Craft; the Construction Shown Is Simple and within the Capabilities of a Careful Novice of Fair Mechanical Skill. A View of the Stern from Above is Shown in Fig. 1. The Engine is Shown Mounted on the Engine Bed, and near the Stern the Shaft Block is Shown. A Partial Sectional View is Shown in Fig. 2. The Relation of the Engine and Bed, Shaft and Fittings, Shaft Block, Shaft Log, and Rudder are Shown. The Construction Diagram, Fig. 3, is Described in Detail in the Text. A Larger-Scale View and a Section of the Shaft Block are Indicated in Fig. 4, and Fig. 5 Illustrates the Engine Bed with Dimensions and Fastening Holes]

A detail of the shaft bearing R is shown in Fig. 4. The hole to receive the shaft must be bored accurately, and the use of the template, as with the boring of the shaft log, is advisable. Flanged metal bearings are provided to take up the wear in the bearing block. The method of fastening the block, as shown in the detail view, insures a rigid bearing with a minimum of holes through the bottom of the canoe. A U-bolt, T, binds the double angle brace U and the block firmly to the keel. The angles of the brace are fixed into the sides of the canoe with bolts, and a bolt at the stern end of the block supports it further. The block should be placed so that it will bear on three ribs and must be fitted to the curve of the canoe.

The rudder is made of sheet metal supported on a rod or pipe. Its general dimensions are shown in Fig. 2. The fan of the rudder is riveted to its supports and rests in a bearing strip of ¹⁄₄ by 1-in. strap iron, which is shaped as a guard for the propeller. The upper bearing of the rudder post is formed from a strip of iron, bolted to the stern, and the upper guide bar, to which the ropes are attached, is cut from an iron strip.

The propeller is 8 in. in diameter, but may be installed of a size suitable to the power, speed, and type of the motor used. The stuffing box V, Fig. 2, the bearings for the bearing block R, the intake strainer W, the exhaust outlet X, Fig. 1, and the shaft coupling Y are all of manufactured types that may be purchased of marine-supply houses.

The intake strainer W is placed in the bottom directly below the pump Z. The exhaust outlet X is placed above the water line, and a muffler should be installed to avoid noise from the exhaust explosions. The exhaust may be conducted under water or to a point near the stern. No indication is given for the placing of the gasoline tank, the supply pipes, electrical-energy source, and wiring. The tank may be placed in the stern of the canoe high enough to provide a good flow. A magneto may be used to give current for the sparking circuit, or batteries may be provided. They may be placed at any point convenient, and should be incased in a waterproof container.

In assembling the parts care must be taken not to wrench the shaft or other pieces out of line, and in general, it is well to fix nonadjustable parts solidly when they are fitted into place. This applies particularly to the engine bed and the shaft log. The bearing block may be adjusted vertically by adding packing, or by reducing the lower surface. The rudder and its fittings may be made in regular course, but should not be fitted until the power unit and driving mechanism is in place finally. The propeller may be protected from possible injury by laying it aside until needed. All the openings in the hull through which bolts or other fastenings are placed should be packed with red lead or other waterproof packing. The working parts and finished metal surfaces should be oiled or greased thoroughly as the parts are assembled, and the unfinished metal parts painted with red lead. This will protect them from moisture and aid in the smooth operation of the mechanism.

How to Make a Fluorescent Screen

Many experimenters have occasion to use a fluorescent screen, particularly those interested in X-ray work. Such a device is quite expensive if purchased, and may be made as follows:

Mix 1 oz. each of common salt, sodium tungstate, and calcium chloride. Place the mixture in a crucible and heat it dull red in a coal fire, for several hours. It will melt into a clear liquid, and should then be removed and permitted to cool. The liquid will crystallize into a hard glasslike mass. Break this out of the crucible and crush it into small pieces. Put them into a jar of clear water. The sodium chloride resulting from the chemical change by heating, will gradually dissolve and the calcium tungstate will fall to the bottom in fine crystals. Wash this precipitate until all trace of the salt disappears; then pour the crystals upon a sheet of filter or blotting paper to dry. After drying, place them in a mortar and grind them to a fine powder, when they will be ready for use.

To make the screen proper, procure a piece of thin white cardboard of the size desired. The calendered board known as three-ply is satisfactory. Paint the cardboard on one side with a thick solution of gum arabic in water, or better still, with celluloid dissolved in amyl acetate. Permit the gum to become “tacky” before dusting with the chemical. The latter process requires care, to produce an even layer on the cardboard, and it is advisable to practice with ordinary salt before attempting it on the cardboard for the screen. The calcium tungstate should be placed in a dry jar, and a piece of fine muslin fixed over the mouth of it. The chemical may be dusted over the surface with this sieve jar.

Shake off the superfluous crystals and permit the screen to dry thoroughly. Fasten a piece of mica, or sheet celluloid, over the sensitized surface to prevent damage to it. Mount the sensitized cardboard in a wooden frame of suitable size and arrange a hood around its edges to cut out unnecessary light. The sensitive side of the screen is, of course, held toward the observer when the apparatus is used.--Contributed by Chester Keene, Hoboken, N. J.

Preventing Wire Mesh from Rising between Fence Posts

Fences which inclose pastures for hogs, or other smaller animals, are usually stretched to give rigidity and strength. Often the adjustment of the wire, after being put into place, causes it to rise from the ground between the fence posts, permitting the animals to escape. An effective method of holding the wire close to the ground is shown in the sketch. A peg, notched near its upper end, is driven into the ground so that the lower edge of the wire mesh is held fast in the notch.--Contributed by O. B. Laurent, New Roads, La.

Jig-Saw Table for Vise

Those who have occasional work to be done with a jig saw will find the simple device shown in the sketch convenient. It provides a table for sawing light work. By holding it in a vise, as shown, a rigid support may be had. The table is made of a rectangular piece of ³⁄₄-in. wood, 8 in. wide and 10 in. long. At one end, a strip, 1 in. square, is attached for clamping in the vise. The other end is notched to provide a place for the saw while in use.--Contributed by Victor A. Rettich, New York, N. Y.

An Emergency Dark-Room Light

The traveling man who “lives in a suitcase” and at the same time wishes to enjoy the pleasures of amateur photography sometimes experiences difficulty in developing films in a hotel room. Soup plates borrowed from the steward, or even the bowl pitcher and the ice-water pitcher in the room, can be used for development, but it is very hard to improvise a ruby lamp. My emergency lamp is a small vest-pocket flash lamp over which two yellow envelopes, one inside of the other, are slipped, as shown. The lower edges are cut perfectly square and rest on the table, or shelf, in the closet, and all white light is excluded. At night, the shades may be drawn, and a yellow-paper sack may be tied around the electric light.--Contributed by J. L. Pinkston, Granite Hill, Ga.

An Ice Creeper

The illustration shows a one-piece ice creeper for the heel of a boot or shoe. It is made from sheet steel with the arms bent up to receive a strap for buckling it in place on the boot heel. The zigzag cuts in the bottom part are turned down for engaging the ice.--Contributed by Chas. S. Snell, Lewiston, Me.

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¶In machine work a way must be provided for removing dowel pins
before they are driven in place.

Waterproofing for Fish Lines

Dissolve ¹⁄₂ oz. of orange shellac in ¹⁄₂ pt. of alcohol, and add 1 teaspoonful of Venice turpentine, the same quantity of raw linseed oil, and 2 oz. tincture of benzoin. Shake well, and set in a varnish can in hot water.

Soak the coiled line in the varnish for two hours, then hang it up to dry. Thin the varnish with alcohol, and repeat the dipping. When the line is dry, rub it down well with a wool rag greased with tallow. Silk lines treated in this manner are pliable, and the fibers of the silk are so united by the varnish that the strength of the line is almost doubled.

Making Chest Lock More Secure

As a rule, ordinary chest locks cannot be relied upon, since almost any kind of a similar key will unlock them. I found a good remedy by taking out the pin on which the key fits, and making a new one twice as long as the one removed, then drilling a hole in the key deep enough to fit over the new pin. In case the pin extends too far, a piece of wood block, with a hole in it to admit the key, can be fastened over it to prevent bending the pin. No ordinary key will pass on the pin far enough to turn the lock.--Contributed by Chas. G. England, Washington, Pa.

Driving Screws in Hard Wood

Keep the supply of screws in a box containing a small amount of powdered soapstone. Shake the box occasionally, and the screws will be dusted with the powder, which acts as a lubricant. This is a much cleaner and more convenient method than the ordinary one of rubbing each screw on a bar of soap before driving it in hard wood.

by

Stillman Taylor