Chapter V: Part II: The Choke and Pattern of a Gun

Having picked out a gun that “fits the man,” the matter of choke and pattern should be considered. For trap shooting and for wild fowling, the full-choke gun may be considered a necessity, since it will throw the charge of shot within a relatively small circle; in other words, make a denser pattern. Chokeboring is accomplished by constricting the barrel at the muzzle from ¹⁄₂₅ to ¹⁄₅₀ in., the amount of taper depending on the size of the bore and gauge. The narrowing of the muzzle forces the charge of shot together and prevents the pellets from scattering over a wide area. Guns are bored with varying degrees of choke, from the full to the plain cylinder, and the manufacturers compare them by recording the number of pellets which any given choke will shoot in a 30-in. circle at 30 yd., or any other range selected as the maximum distance. This gives the pattern from which we find that the full choke produces 70 per cent, the half choke 60 per cent, the quarter choke 50 per cent, and the cylinder 30 per cent.

For trap shooting and wild fowling the expert considers it essential that his 12-gauge should be capable of throwing not less than 300 pellets; hence he selects a full-choked gun with a pattern of 300 or better. As a full-choked 16-gauge will pattern about 275, it may be used for ducks with good success. For a general-purpose gun, a pattern from 250 to 275 will prove quite satisfactory for ducks and upland game, and this may be had by picking out a half-choked 12-gauge, or selecting a full-choked 16-gauge. The 20-gauge gives a pattern of about 245 shot, and thus scatters its charge over too large a circle to prove effective on wild fowl, although it is very effective on upland game, which is flushed not over 35 yd. from the shooter. A gun patterning from 225 to 250 may be considered the ideal upland gun, and this may be had by choosing a quarter-choked 12-gauge, a half-choked 16-gauge, or a full-choked 20-gauge gun. These are known as “open-choked” guns, are the most effective at short ranges, up to 35 yd., and cannot be depended upon to kill clean when used at longer ranges.

Shooting with Both Eyes Open

To handle the weapon well is the desire of every sportsman, and this knack is not difficult to attain, providing the novice will make a good beginning. First of all, it is necessary to hold the gun correctly, and while the forward hand may grip the fore end at any convenient point, a well extended arm gives a better control of the gun when aiming, by giving free play to all the muscles of the arm; hence the gun should be held in a manner natural to the shooter, rather than in imitation of the style of another.

The old manner of aiming the shotgun by closing one eye and sighting along the rib is fast becoming obsolete, for better shooting may be done by keeping both eyes open. Doctor Carter was the first great exponent of binocular shooting, and while but few men can hope to approach this famous gunner’s skill, every one can learn to handle a shotgun more quickly and with greater accuracy by following his common-sense method. It may appear a bit strange at first to disregard the sights and keep both eyes open, and aim the gun by merely pointing it in the desired direction, but to sight along the rib and attempt to see the bead on the muzzle end can only make a slow and poky shot. This old-fashioned method may be good enough for making patterns on a stationary target, but it is not much of a success for wing shooting. For fine rifle shooting the left eye is invariably closed for target work, but for snap-shooting both eyes are kept open, the sights are disregarded, and the aim is taken by pointing the gun at the object to be hit. Of course, there are many good gunners who shoot with one eye closed, but the novice who is anxious to become a good wing shot should make it a point to practice with both eyes open. Vision is always clearer, and the objects more accurately judged with both eyes open than with one, and when this is done, and one eye controls the line of aim, the shooter is not so likely to make mistakes in estimating the distances and the rapidity of the flight of his game. In shooting, the right eye naturally governs the right shoulder, and vice versa, and this is so because habit has trained the eye to do this. To find which is the master eye, hold a pencil out at arm’s length and point it at some small distant object with both eyes open, then close the left eye, and if the pencil still points to the object, the right eye controls the vision, and is the master eye. Should the closing of the left eye alter the aim, the right eye must be trained by practice until it becomes the master eye, or else the gun must be shot from the left shoulder, which is many times more difficult. The modern way of mastering wing shooting is to point the gun where both eyes are looking, and after a little practice this may be done quickly, and the charge thrown more accurately at the object than by closing one eye, or sighting along the barrel in the old manner.

The Knack of Hitting a Flying Target

When shooting at clay targets, or at a flying bird, allowance must be made for the swiftness of flight and the distance from the shooter to the game, or in other words, the shooter must calculate the speed of the flying target and allow the probable time it will take for the shot to reach its mark. To make a quick snap shot at the flying target, the gun may be directly thrown at the mark and discharged as quickly as possible, or the gun may cover the mark and be quickly swung ahead and the charge sent at the point where the swiftly moving bird will be found when the shot gets there. Snap-shooting is only possible when the birds are flying straight away or quartering, and as the shooter fires point-blank at the rapidly moving bird, the shot must be delivered so rapidly that only a very quick and responsive trigger and a fast man back of it can hope to score even a fair percentage of hits. A more certain way of aiming a snap shot is to throw up the barrel below the bird, then rapidly swing it to the proper elevation ahead of the moving target, and throw the shot at the point where the line of the aim and the flight of the bird intersect. For shots at quail, woodcock, and partridge in the brush, the quick snap shot often must be taken, regardless of the chances of missing, for to delay even a second will lose the bird. When a bird rises near the shooter, no allowance of lead or elevation are required, and the charge is thrown directly at the bird.

The rapid swing, however, is the most accurate manner of using the shotgun, at all angles and at any distance within the killing zone of the weapon. To make this shot, the gun must be thrown up behind the bird and then rapidly swung ahead of it, throwing the charge without checking the swing of the arm. In this style of snap-shooting, the elevation of the gun must be identical with the flight of the bird, inasmuch as the gun follows it, and if the gun is swung about three times as fast as the bird is traveling, plenty of allowance for the time necessary to press the trigger and deliver the shot at the determined point will be made.

To swing deliberately and cover the bird with the sight, then shove the gun ahead to give the proper lead, is all right for duck shooting where the game is usually seen approaching and thus remains within range for a longer time. But this deliberate style of handling the gun is far too slow for the uplands, and since the rapid swing is the only accurate manner of cutting down the fast bird, and usually useful for wild fowling, the novice should confine his practice to this practical style of wing shooting.

Stationary-Target Practice

The first great mistake the novice is likely to make is the natural one of supposing that he must take his gun to the field and learn how to handle it by practicing at flying game. This is by no means the best method, and there is scarcely a poorer way of becoming a wing shot, because the gunner is intent upon bagging the game and forgets to observe the many little points of gunnery, shooting high and low, and making the hundred and one mistakes of judgment he would not be guilty of when practicing at a stationary mark. Snap and wing shooting is the last word in shotgun handling, requiring quickness in throwing the gun, as well as a trained eye to calculate the distance from and the speed of the flying target. To acquire confidence in using the gun, begin by shooting at a fixed mark. A good target may be made by obtaining a dozen, or two, sheets of stout wrapping paper and painting a 4-in. circle in the center of each sheet. Tack it up on a board fence or on a board hung on a tree, measure off 60 ft., and try a shot. The shot will not spread very much at this short range, and it will be an easy matter to determine the result of your skill in holding a dead-on to the large mark. To avoid flinching and other movements of the head and body, caused by the recoil, begin your first practicing with a light powder-and-shot charge, say, about 2 dr. of bulk measure, or its equivalent in smokeless, and ⁷⁄₈ oz. of No. 8 or 9 shot. There is no advantage in using a heavier charge, and the recoil of the gun will appear much greater in deliberate shooting at a target than is likely to be felt during the excitement incidental to shooting in the field. A dozen shots at these targets will enable the gunner to make a good score by deliberate holding, and when this can be done without flinching, snap and wing shooting may begin.

Snap and Wing Shooting

The object which the gunner should now strive for is to train the eye, hand, and gun to work in unison, and to do this, bring the gun quickly to the shoulder, point it to the mark, and press the trigger without stopping the upward and even swing of the barrels. At the first few trials some difficulty may be encountered with the pressing of the trigger at the proper moment, but a little practice will soon tell how to time the shots. Note the phrase, “press the trigger,” for the trigger is not pulled by the forefinger alone, but rather pressed by closing both hands, the forward hand on the fore end pushing and closing, and the hand grasping the stock being drawn back and squeezed at the same instant. This is easily done, but rather hard to picture. After a few trials with an empty gun, the novice will see the point, and also discover the fact that the recoil of the arm is much lessened by this proper grip of the weapon.

Confine the first practice in snap-shooting to throwing the gun to the shoulder, and when proficient in hitting the mark, try a snap shot by swinging the gun from the side, right to left and also left to right. Do not attempt to check the even swing of the gun, but rather let the barrels swing past the mark, concentrating the mind upon pressing the trigger the instant the line of aim covers the mark. Practice swinging slowly, and after being able to hit the mark with the center of the charge pretty regularly, increase the speed of the swing. In doing this, it will be discovered that the speed of pressing the trigger must also be increased to balance the speed of the moving barrel, and very likely it will be found that the natural tendency is to press the trigger a bit late. This is the common mistake which practically every novice makes when in the field, although the error is likely to pass unnoticed when after game.

SHOOT AT BOTH TARGETS ON EACH SWING

Train the Eye, Hand, and Gun to Work in Unison, by Bringing the Gun Quickly to the Shoulder, Pointing It at the Mark, and Pulling the Trigger without Stopping the Motion of the Barrels]

As the gunner acquires proficiency in swinging the gun from side to side, try swinging the gun at different angles, changing the angle of the swing with each shot, from right to left and upward, at an oblique angle upward, and so on, until it is possible to hit the mark with a fair certainty from a variety of angles. When trying out the several swings, one should always begin slowly and increase the speed of the swing as he becomes more expert, only making sure to shoot by calculation and not by guess. The manner of acquiring expertness sounds easy and is comparatively easy, and, as it is the backbone of snap-shooting, improvement will be rapid if the novice is willing to practice slowly and master each detail in turn. Do not make the mistake of overdoing the thing at the outset by shooting too long at a time. A box of 25 loads is ample for a day’s practice, since it is not how much one shoots, but how well, that counts.

Snap-Shooting at Moving Targets

When the gunner has reached the point where he can hit the stationary target by swinging his gun both fast and slow, he has acquired better control of the weapon than many old shooters, and he is well prepared to take up snap-shooting at flying or moving targets. The access to a gun club where clay birds may be shot at, will prove of much value, but this is not absolutely necessary, since tin cans, bits of brick, and bottles, thrown in the air at unknown angles by a companion, will afford the needed variety. Better than this is one of the inexpensive “hand traps” which project the regulation clay targets by means of a powerful spring worked by a trigger. One of the large powder manufacturers makes a trap of this kind, and a very good trap can be had for $1.50. The standard clay targets cost about $2.50 a barrel of 500. Practice of this sort may be made a very interesting and highly instructive sport, providing the targets are projected from different and unexpected angles, thus simulating the many-angled flight of the live bird.

Value of Second Barrel in Shooting

The use of the second barrel should not be overlooked in practicing with the idea of becoming an all-around wing shot, for the second shot is often needed to kill a cripple, or bring down a bird which has been missed with the first shot. Two-shot practice should begin by placing two paper targets about 20 ft. apart, then shooting at the first one and continuing to swing the gun to cover the second target. Practice swinging from various angles as directed for the initial practice, increasing the speed of the swing as proficiency is gained, and fail not to profit by the mistakes which must inevitably occur to all who try to master the shotgun. After a reasonable amount of practice, conducted along these lines, the gunner may venture afield, and if his acquaintance includes an old seasoned sportsman who will point out the mistakes made, much may be learned regarding the knack of handling the gun, as well as relating to the haunts and habits of our wild game birds.

Cleaning and Care of the Gun

A good shotgun is a thoroughly reliable and dependable weapon, but as with all tools of the sportsman’s craft, the best results can only be had when the arm is in good condition. It is gun wisdom always to clean the weapon after a day’s shooting, and the amateur should make it a positive rule never to put his gun away until it is cleaned. The sooner firearms are cleaned after the firing the better, and if cleaned before the burnt powder has had time to corrode the steel, much future trouble is saved. In cleaning the barrels, never rest the muzzle against the floor. If a rest is needed, use an old piece of carpet or a bundle of rags. Clean from the breech end only, as any slight dust, or burr, at the muzzle will greatly impair the shooting qualities of any firearm. Never use a wire-wheel scratchbrush, as it will scratch the polished steel; a soft brass-wire cleaner is the only suitable implement for this work. There are several good cleaners to be had. For removing any rust deposits, a brass brush may be used, while for ordinary cleaning, plenty of cloth should be run through the barrels, taking care that it touches every part of the interior. This is easily done by rotating the cleaning rod as it is pushed through the barrel from the breech to the muzzle. When putting the gun away, the barrels should be stopped, at the breech and muzzle, with tightly fitting corks, or gun ropes may be run through the barrels after soaking them in some good oil. To prevent rusting, cover the metal, outside as well as inside the barrels, by smearing on a little heavy lubricating oil. Slip covers of chamois are often used to protect the stock and barrels before putting them in the leather case, but stout woolen covers are better, since chamois is likely to absorb more or less moisture.

The mechanism of a gun is not exactly complicated, but the novice had better leave well enough alone and not attempt to dismount the locks or tinker with the mechanism. The modern steel barrel is very hard and not easily dented, but if so injured, it is better to ship it to the factory for repairs than to trust it to the crude methods of the average gun repairman.

A gun should be given ordinary good care, and this is not forthcoming if one makes a practice of opening it and letting the barrels drop down with a bang. Snapping the triggers on an empty barrel is likewise foolish. If one desires to practice trigger pressing, put a couple of empty shells in the barrels.

If one owns a good-grade shotgun, the stock is probably finished in oil and hand-rubbed to a nice, durable polish. On cheap arms the varnish is usually employed to give an attractive finish in the store. Of course, this varnish will scratch, and otherwise come off, and spoil the appearance of the arm. If a good finish is wanted, do not re-varnish the stock, but remove all the old varnish by using a little varnish remover, and rub down with oil. For an extra-fine polish, wet the wood to raise the grain; rub down with very fine sandpaper; wet the wood again, and sandpaper a second or a third time; then rub down with oil until the wood is saturated with it, and polish with a cloth, using plenty of pressure, and the stock will be as fine in appearance as if it had the “London oil finish” supplied with all high-grade guns.

Brass Machine Screws with Nuts

When small brass machine screws and threaded nuts to fit them are needed in small devices, or for experimental work, and the necessary taps and dies are not at hand, secure some old brass globe holders and cut out the threaded hole for the nut. The fastening-screw arrangement on these will answer every purpose very well. Enough metal can be left on each one to fasten it on wood, as shown at A, or they can be cut, as shown at B, if they are to be soldered to metal.

Snapper-Shell Ash Tray

An odd and unusual ash tray can be made from a snapping-turtle shell. Four brass, or wood, balls or knobs, secured with screws, as shown, will keep it balanced. The exact points to place the supports under the tray will have to be determined by experiment, as no two shells are of exactly the same shape.

A Portable Fire Screen

The fire screen illustrated can be constructed at very small expense. In brief, the screen consists of a light metal frame surrounding three pieces of ¹⁄₈-in. sheet asbestos. The frames inclosing the asbestos pieces are hinged together, as shown in Fig. 1, with special hinges made to meet the requirements.

The asbestos comes in sheets 40 in. square, and this size determines the outside dimensions of the screen. The size of the different sections can, of course, be changed if such a change will better suit the existing needs. By making the screen in sections it may be folded up and thus occupy much less space, and when in use, the sections, by placing them at an angle to each other, serve the purpose of legs, which would be required if the screen were in one straight piece.

The dimensions and form of the outer portions of the frame are given in Fig. 2, and those of the inner portions, or edges, where the hinges are attached, are given in Fig. 3. The joining edges of the frames are made wider than the others for the reason that some of the metal is cut away where the hinges are attached. These frames may be made from heavy tin or galvanized iron, and it will be a simple matter for a tinner to bend them into shape. After all these pieces are bent, fit them together at the corners, making sure that they clamp tightly on the asbestos sheets, as these help to hold the frame in shape. Drill a small hole in each of the corners and provide a small round-head rivet of proper length for each of the holes. The vertical portions of the frame should be placed inside of the horizontal, or end, pieces at the corners.

FIG. 2

FIG. 3

FIG. 4

Fire Screen Made of Sheet Asbestos Inclosed in Thin Metal Frames Hinged Together]

Make four pieces of brass having the form and dimensions given in Fig. 4. Two ¹⁄₈-in. holes are drilled in each of these pieces as indicated. Slots are cut in the inner edges of the frames of such dimensions as will accommodate these brass pieces. The location of these slots is given in Fig. 1. Obtain eight pieces of ¹⁄₈-in. steel rod, about 2 in. long. Place the ends of the brass pieces in the slots in the inner frame and then put the rods through the holes in the ends of them and solder the ends of the rods to the inside of the frames. Make sure that there is no solder run in between the rod and piece of brass, as this will prevent the hinge from operating freely. After the hinges are in place, the frames are riveted together. Notches are cut in the edges of the asbestos sheets at the location of the hinges to allow the latter free movement. The sections of the screen may be made very rigid by placing a number of small rivets around the inner edges of the frame to hold it tightly against the asbestos. The asbestos may be given a coat of bronze, or be otherwise decorated for appearance.

Tossing a Card at a Mark Accurately

There is an interesting old game that can be played instead of solitaire. It consists in trying to toss the greatest number of cards into a small basket or an upturned stiff hat, set at a distance. If the cards are held as shown at A, and tossed as at B, they may be thrown with surprising accuracy.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

A Sanitary Drinking Tube

To make this tube, procure a piece of ³⁄₄-in. gauge glass, about 10 in. long, and bend it by heating the glass with a blowtorch 2¹⁄₂ in. from one end, as shown. If this is done in a place where no air will strike the glass while it is heated and the tube is then allowed to cool slowly, it will not crack. It is used by putting the short end under the faucet and drawing on it as on a pipe.

A Comb Cleaner

A very handy device for cleaning combs can be made from a piece of spring sheet brass, 4¹⁄₂ in. long and about 3 in. wide. Notches are cut in the ends of the brass with a hacksaw, making the projections as wide as the saw cut. The brass is then bent into shape with a special clamp made for the purpose, which consists of three pieces of wood, two being cut to form a curved slot, then fastened to the third piece. The brass is sprung into the slot, and then fine wire is stretched between the ends in the notches. The wire should be very fine and two strands twisted together and run through the notches.

Concealing the House Key

The time-honored custom of concealing the house key under the door mat, or in the letter box, when the family has not enough keys to go around, is so well known that an unauthorized person seeking to enter the house would look in these places first of all.

A simple and effective hiding place for the key can be quickly and easily made with the aid of an auger and two pieces of tin. Pick out an obscure section of the porch railing, and in the edge of this bore a ³⁄₄-in. hole, about ¹⁄₄ in. deeper than the length of the key. Make a piece of tin into a cylinder, the same length as the key, so that the latter will slide easily into the hole. At one end of this cylinder solder a 1-in. disk of tin, which will make it appear as in the illustration.

If the key is placed in the cylinder and the latter pushed into the hole until it is flush with the surface, it will scarcely be noticed by anyone not in the secret, and by painting it the same color as the railing it will become still more inconspicuous.--Contributed by Frank L. Matter, Portland, Ore.

A Mysterious Watch

A very interesting experiment may be made with the ordinary dollar watch in illustrating the law of the pendulum. A pendulum 39.1 in. long will make 60 one-way swings per minute, the number of swings varying inversely as the square root of the length. By actual count it was found that the balance wheel of the watch in question made 240 one-way swings per minute, which is just 4 times as fast as the 39-in. pendulum. Therefore, according to the foregoing law, a pendulum ¹⁄₁₆ as long, or about 2¹⁄₂ in., would swing in unison with the wheel of the watch. The question then arises as to what would happen if the watch itself were suspended so as to swing as a pendulum of the latter length. The experiment was made as illustrated, with the result that the watch keeps on swinging continuously. The swing amounts to about ³⁄₈ in., and appears so vigorous that it is almost incomprehensible that the small spring in a watch should be able to maintain so much weight in continuous motion for 24 hours.

by Stillman Taylor]

There are many enjoyable phases of the fisher’s art, but bait casting from the free reel probably has a wider appeal than any other branch of angling. The pleasure of handling a short bait-casting rod is in itself a good sport, even when casting done in the back yard is made for distance and accuracy only. Get two or three enthusiastic casters together, and you may have an interesting little tournament, held on a vacant lot, on the lake, or on the greensward of a city park. There is plenty of action in casting from the reel, and it is its variety that has made angling of this type so universally popular. True, considerable practice is required before the caster is able to shoot an accurate plug far off, but the knack may be gained after reasonable application. The handling of the short rod differs from all other angling methods--it is an active sport rather than a contemplative recreation--and when the fun of handling a good outfit is combined with the sport of coaxing out a black bass, shooting a wooden minnow among the lily pads for pickerel, or casting the bait for those pirates of our fresh-water lakes, the wall-eyed pike and the muskellunge, the angler gets a taste of fishing--plus.

The Outfit and Its Selection

A good firearm is necessary to the good marksman and a well-made, nicely balanced rod, to which is clamped a smooth-running reel, is the essential equipment of an able angler. Bait casting is, of course, more a matter of skill than of outfit, but that is no reason why the angler should be handicapped by poor tackle, although large expenditure is not necessary in obtaining a satisfactory outfit. The casting rod may be from 5 to 6 ft. long. Where the caster regards length of cast as the important factor, the 5-ft. length will probably give the best satisfaction. However, the superiority of one over the other in this regard is rather to be found in the elasticity and quality of the rod than its length. The skill of the caster is, moreover, the ruling factor. The 5¹⁄₂-ft. rod is better than the 5-ft. length for fishing purposes, and the 6-ft. rod is more resilient than the 5¹⁄₂-ft. tip. If the greatest range is not of more importance than the landing of the fish, the longer rod will prove the most pleasant to handle.

The split-bamboo rod has many friends, and a well-made rod of this material is a thoroughly satisfactory casting tool. A fine-quality casting rod of split bamboo costs from $10 to $25. A fairly good rod may be bought for $2 or a trifle less, and a smooth-running reel for another $2, while a line for it will bring the total up to about $5. An outfit of this kind purchased with discrimination, while not embodying everything that a critical angler would desire, will cast a long and accurate line and stand up under the strain of handling our heaviest game fish. The one-piece rod is classed by many anglers as the ideal casting rod. The two-piece rod is handier to pack and is more generally used.

The chief fault in bait-casting rods is the stiff action of the tip section. For tournament casting, a fairly stiff rod is desirable. The same requirement holds good for muskellunge and other heavy fishing. A flexible rod affords more pleasure in playing black bass and other active “gamey” fish. However, the best way to test out a rod is by casting with it.

The steel casting rod is well liked by some casters, but only a high-quality steel rod is worthy of consideration. It is generally not classed as the equal of a well-made solid-wood or split-bamboo rod, for casting. The better-grade steel rod is springy and flexible, and for this reason is a good rod for casting for black bass. Still, most anglers have a steel rod in their outfits, but it is not as generally used at tournaments as the time-tried wooden rod.

The guide is an important detail of a casting rod. Inexpensive rods are usually provided with large metal guides, while the better rods are fitted with agate guides, or with agate tip and hand guides. A guide, ¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, at the butt of the rod is large enough and will handle the line smoothly.

The single grip is sometimes preferred by casters, but the additional grip placed above the reel is desirable if much fishing is done. Solid-cork hand grasps are most satisfactory, being less slippery when wet and less tiring to the hand than handles made of other materials. If the lower grip is properly shaped with a forward edge, the forefinger will find a firm grip upon it, and the finger hook will not be needed. However, some anglers prefer to use the hook, and if the rod is not so fitted, a detachable hook may be fastened to it. A reel band that locks securely is desirable, and all the better grades of casting rods are so fitted.

The quadruple reel is the logical choice of the bait caster, the spool turning four times to one turn of the handle. As the work demanded of a bait-casting reel is different and more exacting than that of the click reel used in fly casting, its design is radically different. The best type of click reel is of large spool diameter and narrow between plates, while the typical casting reel is its direct opposite--being long-barreled, with plates of comparatively small diameter. For tournament casting the finest outfit will naturally be selected, but for practical work it is unnecessary to pay $25 for a finely wrought reel. Three typical reels are shown in the illustration. The one at the left holds 80 yd. of line, can be easily taken apart for cleaning, and costs $4. In the center is a level-winding reel with thumb click and adjustable drag placed on the rims of the plates. It holds 60 yd. of line, and costs $13.50. At the right is a very high-grade reel for tournament casting. It has a cork arbor, jeweled bearings holds 60 yd. of line, and costs $26.

Any of the better grades of braided silk are suitable for the bait-casting line. The average price for a dependable line is about $1 for 50 yd. A small size line is best, and sizes G and E are preferred. A brown and green, or other dark-colored, line is preferable for fishing. The black and white, all white and other light-colored, lines are satisfactory for tournament use. After a day’s fishing the line should be unreeled and looped around the back of a chair in loose coils to dry, or loosely wound upon a drying reel.

For practice and tournament casting one of the standard ¹⁄₄ and ¹⁄₂-oz. loaded wooden or metal plugs may be used. The popularity of bait casting from the reel has brought forth a large variety of artificial baits. These wooden and enameled lures are used by anglers because they bring the catches.

The wooden minnows, and other forms of artificial bait, may be roughly classed in three divisions: the surface lures for use on top of the water; the diving and under-water baits; and the weedless varieties, which are usually of the surface type. No bait caster’s outfit is complete unless it includes one bait of each class, and to meet fully the different and varying conditions of weather, season, and water, it is a good plan to select one of each type in light and medium-dark colors. A variety of typical baits are shown in the page plate at A, B, C, etc. Many of the baits are provided with one or more eyes for attaching the line, thus enabling the caster to spin his bait at different depths. All of the wooden-body baits will float, and only dive under the surface when reeled in; the quicker they are retrieved the deeper they spin. While many of these baits have been designed especially to entice the black bass, practically all of them are good for pickerel and general fresh-water casting, particularly the minnow baits.

The other items which complete the bait caster’s outfit are the landing net and tackle box. The net should be well made, with a steel hoop 13 in. or larger in diameter, and should have a handle about 3 ft. long. The folding type of net is the most convenient, and is provided with a separate handle. The tackle box may be of sheet metal or leather, with partitions for holding reels, baits, and the angling “what not.” A convenient and serviceable landing net costs $1 or more, and a tackle box will cost about as much.

Suggestions on Making the Cast

Although much practice is required before the caster can take his place in a tournament, “getting the hang” of handling the short rod and free-running reel comes quickly. As soon as the simple principles are understood, length and accuracy will come only through practice. Bait casting is easier than fly casting and the angler need concern himself only with the length and accuracy of his cast, since delicacy does not enter into this phase of fishing. The coarser sweet-water fish, like black bass and pickerel, are not frightened when the bait hits the water with a splash--indeed, the splash of the bait attracts them.

Two methods of casts are used by bait casters, the overhead and the underhand or side cast. The overhead cast is used largely by the practical angler, as well as by those who take part in tournament contests, because the bait is projected a longer distance and may be more accurately placed. If the novice will thumb the line, as shown in Fig. 1, with thumb bearing directly on the cross rod of the reel with the ball of the thumb resting lightly on the line, one or two trials will show the correct manner of spooling. The line is retrieved as shown in Fig. 2, care being taken to form correct habits from the start. To make the cast, reel in the bait until it is some 6 in. from the tip, release the click or drag, and press the ball of the thumb firmly upon the spooled line. Carry the rod over the shoulder until it is horizontal or nearly so, as in Fig. 3, and then bring it smartly forward, checking it quickly when it reaches an angle of some 45°, as shown in Fig. 4. This projects the bait forward in a straight line. When the rod is brought forward the tension of the thumb on the spool is released so that the spool will revolve freely, but enough pressure must be communicated by the thumb to prevent the reel from spinning faster than the line is unreeled from the spool, otherwise backlash will occur. The use of the whole arm and the weight of the body, combined with the elasticity of the pliant rod, enables the caster to cover a surprisingly long distance after a little practice. A distance of 150 ft. is not difficult to attain, but for fishing, a well-placed cast of 60 or 75 ft. is long enough to reach promising stretches of water.

A

FIG. 3

B

The Method of Thumbing the Line is Shown in Figure 1, and the Correct form in Retrieving the Line, in Figure 2. The Overhead Cast is Illustrated in Figures 3 and 4, and the Underhand or Side Cast in Figures 5 and 6

C

D

FIG. 4

FIG. 1

E

F

FIG. 2

FIG. 5

Typical Baits:
A, Under-Water Minnow;
B, Wabbler Spoon;
C, Bass;
D, Fluted Wabbler;
E, Weedless;
F, Diving;
G, Combination Color, Taste, and Smell;
H, Spoon and Minnow Bass;
I, Surface

G

H

FIG. 6

I]

The underhand or side cast is somewhat easier to master, and is made much in the same way as the overhead cast, only the rod is swung horizontally to the rear, the tip on a level with the angler’s chest, as shown in Fig. 5. Bring the rod forward smartly in the direction it is desired to shoot the bait, check the rod when about horizontal, partly releasing the pressure of the thumb, just enough to allow the spool to revolve freely, and check the line as the bait hits the water. Figure 5 shows the beginning of the side cast and Fig. 6 the cast completed. This cast is useful when fishing from a shore overhung with trees, and with practice the bait may be projected a long distance.

The chief factor of skill in bait casting from the reel lies in controlling the line, and the thumb must be trained to do this through practice. Some casters turn the reel sideways with the handle downward while making the cast, but the majority keep the reel level and cast with it in the same position as when reeling in. Thumbing the line is easiest done when the spool is well filled, and if the casting line is not long enough to do this, sufficient common line should be first wound on to fill it.

The successful bait caster is one who possesses an intimate knowledge of the fish he casts for, and while a lengthy exposition is not to form a part of this article, reference to the fish commonly sought by the caster will not be amiss. The fish generally of interest to the bait caster are small and large-mouth black bass, pike, muskellunge, and pickerel. The small-mouth black bass is classed as the finest game fish, ounce for ounce, by many casters. The muskellunge, often confused with the Great Lakes or English pike, is more limited in range than the pike, being found in the Great Lakes region and the waters of the St. Lawrence River.

Since the habits and general characteristics of the large-mouth bass are much the same as its near relative, the small-mouth, the following hints apply to both. When wading, it is well to cast downstream. Cast in the shallows, near the weeds and snags, and close to stumps. As little noise should be made as possible.

For early-spring casting, bass are likely to be found in the shallows and sheltered places during the day, because the water is cool at this season. The pickerel will also be found in the warmer and shallower waters. The most successful baits at this time are the diving minnows, and other under-water lures. As the warmer days of late spring and early summer appear, the bass swim out into deeper and cooler water, while the pickerel remain close to the lily pads. The wooden minnows are excellent baits to use at this season. When the weeds are very thick, one of the several kinds of weedless baits may be used.

The early-morning and late-afternoon hours are the best for midsummer casting, and the shallow places are the good spots to work over. If there are any brooks or streams emptying into the lake or pond, do not neglect to work this stretch well at the mouth. When the sun is low, the white or light-colored surface baits may be substituted for the medium-dark colored diving varieties, and for casting after dark, a luminous or moonlight bait will often give good results. During the fall months fishing conditions are similar to casting in the spring, but the deep water is then the warmest, and the under-water or diving baits are usually the best.

To catch bass, the angler must cast his bait where the fish are feeding, and he will find it an advantage to match natural conditions, so far as possible, in selecting his baits. For casting on bright days in clear waters, the red, white and red, white, or green minnows are good lures, as are also the silverplated spoon baits. Cast well ahead of the boat, and reel in very slowly to keep the plug spinning well below the surface. On cloudy days and in muddy waters, after a heavy rain, for example, use red and yellow baits and goldplated or burnished-copper spoons. The best all-around bait--equally good for bass and pickerel--is one of the green-backed minnows, but no one bait can be expected to meet all conditions, hence the caster should have a fair assortment of baits.

A stiff casting rod with plenty of backbone is essential for muskellunge. The angler is out after big game and must be prepared for the sport. A hard, braided silk line, size E, and 3-0 or 4-0 hooks, snelled and swiveled, are the best. Any of the wooden baits suitable for pickerel--the minnows especially--are good for muskellunge. A man to handle the oars is a handy companion, and after casting the bait just outside the weed bed, make for deep water as soon as a fish is hooked. The fish will be seen and felt quickly enough, and when it breaks water and leaps in the air, give it a little slack line quickly, otherwise the strain will snap the leader. A twisted, bronzed trace is the best to use between line and bait, and this need not be longer than a foot--6 in. is enough. When the fish is brought alongside, shoot him through the head with a revolver which is probably the most satisfactory manner of making an easy landing.

A Cat-Proof Bird Table

Our bird table is a source of great enjoyment, particularly since the birds feel secure from cats or other enemies because of the construction of this ornament in our garden. The sketch shows the arrangement of the table braced at the top of a 6-ft. post. Shrubbery surrounds the table and a light evergreen climber clings to the post, yet does not give the cats a good foothold.

Experience has taught us that birds in general prefer bread crumbs to other varieties of food, and they are also fond of cracked wheat. The linnets like oranges particularly. We cut an orange in two and place the halves on the table. It is amusing to see the birds balance on one side of the orange while they peck at the fruit. Soon the orange peel is almost entirely emptied. We provide a small basin of fresh water on the table, and the birds use it as a drinking cup as well as a bathtub.--F. H. Sweet, Waynesboro, Va.

Making Photographic Prints Glossy

Pictures printed on glossy, semi-glossy, or semimat paper may be given a high gloss by the following method: Obtain a sheet of clean glass, without scratches, and apply a solution of a piece of paraffin, the size of a walnut, in one pint of gasoline. Use a soft cloth, and when the glass is dry, rub until all traces are removed. Soak the prints in water for 10 minutes and place them on the glass, face down. Place a clean blotter over them and roll on it with a print roller, to remove excess water and to give them a good contact with the glass. Dry the prints in a warm place, preferably where there is a draft.--M. E. Fuller, Detroit, Michigan.

Shaving-Brush Holder

A shaving brush is injured by permitting it to remain in the mug to dry. It should be suspended with the hair down so that it may dry thoroughly and quickly. A hook made from a piece of wire bent to form a loop, with a pointed section at each side of it, may be made easily. The loop should be of a size to fit the thin portion of the handle, and the pointed ends of the wire are driven into the wall or other support. A loop may be made at each end instead of pointing the wire and the device fixed to the wall with two small screws placed through the end loops.

By Stillman Taylor