Chapter XXVI: Part II: A Netted Hammock (1)

A good hammock should be about 12 ft. long, which includes 8 ft. of network and 2 ft., at each end, of long cords that are attached to rings. Seine twine, of 24-ply, is the best material and it will take 1¹⁄₂ lb. to make a hammock. The twine comes in ¹⁄₂-lb. skeins and should be wound into balls to keep it from knotting before the right time. Two galvanized rings, about 2¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, are required.

FIG. 3

FIG. 2

The Tools Necessary Consist of a Needle or Shuttle, a Guage Board, and a Mesh Stick]

The equipment for netting a hammock consists of a wood needle, or shuttle, a gauge board for the long meshes at the ends, and a mesh stick for the regular netting of the main body of the hammock, all of which will be described in detail.

The shuttle is made of wood and is 12 in. long, 1¹⁄₄ in. wide, and ¹⁄₄ in. thick. The best material to use is maple or other hard wood, but very satisfactory ones can be cut from good-grained pine. The sketch, Fig. 1, shows the general shape of the shuttle, one end being pointed and the other forked. Lay out the pointed end before beginning to cut down to size. Place a compass at the center of the end, and with a radius of 1¹⁄₂ in. describe the arc AB. With the intersections of this arc and the side lines of the needle, C and D, as centers, and the same radius, 1¹⁄₂ in., cut the arc AB at E and F. With E and F as centers draw the curves of the end of the shuttle. The reason for placing the centers outside of the shuttle lines is to obtain a longer curve to the end. The curves can be drawn free-hand but will then not be so good.

The space across the needle at GH is divided into five ¹⁄₄-in. divisions. The centers of the holes J and K at the base of the tongue are 3¹⁄₂ in. from the pointed end. The opening is 2³⁄₄ in. long. Bore a ¹⁄₄-in. hole at the right end of the opening, and just to the left three holes, as shown by the dotted lines. With a coping saw cut out along the lines and finish with a knife, file and sandpaper. Round off the edges as shown by the sectional detail. It is well to bevel the curve at L so that the shuttle will wind easily. The fork is ³⁄₄ in. deep, each prong being ¹⁄₄ in wide. Slant the point of the shuttle and round off all edges throughout and sandpaper smooth.

The gauge board, Fig. 2, is used for making the long meshes at both ends of the hammock. It is a board about 3 ft. long, 4 in. wide, and 1 in. thick. An eight-penny nail is driven into the board 1 in. from the right edge and 2 in. from the end, as shown by M, allowing it to project about 1 in. and slanting a little toward the end; the other nail N will be located later.

The mesh stick, Fig. 3, should be made of maple, 8 in. long, 1³⁄₄ in. wide and ¹⁄₄ in. thick. Round off the edges and sandpaper them very smooth.

The making of the net by a specially devised shuttle is called “natting,” or netting, when done with a fine thread and a suitably fine shuttle. Much may be done in unique lace-work designs and when coarser material and large shuttles are used, such articles as fish nets, tennis nets and hammocks may be made. The old knot used in natting was difficult to learn and there was a knack to it that was easily forgotten, but there is a slight modification of this knot that is quite easy to learn and to make The modified knot will be the one described.

The shuttle is first wound by looping the cord over the tongue, as shown in Fig. 4, then bringing it down to the forked end and up to the opening on the opposite side; then the cord is again looped over the tongue and returned to the fork or place of starting. Continue winding back and forth until the shuttle is full. The shuttle will accommodate from 20 to 35 complete rounds. If the shuttle is too full it crowds in passing through the meshes and delays the work.

FIG. 5

The Shuttle is First Wound and the Long Loops at One End Formed over the Gauge Stick]

Attach one of the galvanized rings by means of a short cord to the nail in the gauge board, as shown in Fig. 2. At a point 2 ft. from the lower edge of the ring, drive an eight-penny finishing nail, N. Tie the cord end of the shuttle to the ring, bring the shuttle down and around the nail N; then bring it back and pass it through the ring from the under side. The cord will then appear as shown. A part of the ring projects over the edge of the board to make it easier to pass the shuttle through. Draw the cord up tightly and put the thumb on top of the cord O, Fig. 5, to prevent it from slipping back, then throw a loop of the cord to the left over the thumb and up over a portion of the ring and pass the shuttle under the two taut cords and bring it up between the thumb and the two cords, as shown. Draw the looped knot tight under the thumb. Slip the long loop off the nail N and tie a simple knot at the mark P. This last knot is tied in the long loop to prevent looseness. Proceed with the next loop as with the first and repeat until there are 30 long meshes.

FIG. 7

FIG. 8

After the Completion of the Long Meshes, the Ring is Anchored and the Mesh Stick Brought into Use]

After completing these meshes anchor the ring by its short cord to a hook or other stationary object. The anchorage should be a little above the level for tying the knots of the net. Tie the cord of the shuttle to the left outside loop and always work from the left to the right; and the first time across see that the long meshes do not cross over each other, but are kept in the order in which they are attached to the ring.

After tying the cord to the mesh 1, Fig. 6, bring the mesh stick into use. Pass the cord down over the mesh stick, drawing the lower end of the loop down until it comes against the upper side of the mesh stick and put the thumb down upon it in this position to prevent slipping. Pass the shuttle up through the loop 2 and draw that down to the mesh stick. Shift the thumb from the first position to the second. Throw the cord to the left over the thumb and about the loop 2, as shown in Fig. 7, and bring the shuttle under both of the cords of mesh 2 and up between the large backward loop and the cords of the mesh 2. Without removing the thumb draw up the knot very tight. This makes the first netting knot. Continue the cord around the mesh stick, pass it up through mesh 3, throw the backward loop, put the shuttle under and up to the left of the mesh 3 and draw very tight, and do not allow a mesh to be drawn down below the upper side of the mesh stick. Some of these cautions are practically repeated, but if a mesh is allowed to get irregular, it will give trouble in future operations.

FIG. 10

A Square Knot is Used to Join the Ends of the Cord When Rewinding the Shuttle]

Continue across the series until all of the long loops have been used and this will bring the work to the right side. Flip the whole thing over, and the cord will be at the left, ready to begin again. Slip all the meshes off the mesh stick. It makes no difference when the meshes are taken off the stick but they must all come off before a new row is begun. Having the ring attached to the anchorage by a cord makes it easy to flip the work over. Be sure to flip to the right and then to the left alternately to prevent the twisting, which would result if turned one way all the time.

FIG. 12

The Gauge Board is Again Used for the Long Loops at the Finishing End, Then the Cords are Wound]

The first mesh each time across is just a little different problem from all the others, which may be better understood by reference to Fig. 8. The knots Q, R, and S are of the next previous series. The cord is brought down over the mesh stick and up through mesh 1, and when the loop is brought down it may not draw to the mesh stick at its center; it is apt to do otherwise and a sideway pull is necessary, which is pulled so that the knots Q and R are side by side, then the knot at T may be tied. When the mesh 2 is drawn down it should pull to place without shifting, and also all the others of that row.

Continue the use of the mesh stick until a net 8 ft. long is made. When the cord gives out rewind the shuttle and tie with a small knot that will not slip. The weaver’s knot is good if known, or the simple square knot shown in Fig. 9 is very good. It is too easy to make to need direction, but unless it is thrown over just right it will slip. Let U, Fig. 8, represent the short cord and V the new piece to be added. Place the cord V back of U and give U a complete turn around V, Fig. 9, and bring them together at a point above U, then to the front. Repeat the complete turn of U about V, shown by the dotted line, and pull tightly. If analyzed, it consists of two loops that are just alike and linked together as shown in Fig. 10.

When the 8 ft. of netting has been completed, proceed to make the long loops as at the beginning. The same gauge board can be used, but the tying occurs at both ends, and since the pairs cannot be knotted in the center, two or three twists can be given by the second about the first of each pair. The long loops and the net are attached together as shown in Fig. 11. Slip one of the meshes of the last run over the nail N, and when the cord comes down from the ring, the shuttle passes through the same mesh, and when drawn up, the farthest point of the mesh comes against the nail. After this long loop has been secured at the ring, the first mesh is slipped off and the next put on. All of the long loops at this end will be about three inches shorter than at the other end, unless the finishing nail N is moved down. This will not be necessary.

With a piece of cord about six feet long, start quite close to the ring and wind all the cords of the long loops together. The winding should be made very tight, and it is best to loop under with each coil. This is shown in Fig. 12.

The hammock is now ready for use. Some like a soft, small rope run through the outside edges lengthwise, others prefer a fringe, and either can be added. The fringe can be attached about six meshes down from the upper edge of the sides. The hammock should have a stretcher at each end of the netted portion, but not as long as those required for web hammocks.

Gourd Float for a Fishline

A unique as well as practical fishing-line float can be made of a small gourd. After the gourd has dried sufficiently, wire loops, to hold the line, are inserted, or rather, a single wire is run through and looped at both ends. The contents of the gourd need not be removed. Dip the float in a can of varnish, or apply the varnish with a brush.

Homemade Arc Light

Those who wish to produce an arc light for experimental purposes, or for the brief periods required by photography, will find the method of construction shown in the sketch very simple and inexpensive. Using the short lengths of carbons discarded by moving-picture operators, there is no difficulty in maintaining a good arc for 15 minutes, or more, without once manipulating the adjusting screw at the top.

Only three pieces of wood are necessary besides the base, and in the preparation of these no particular care is necessary except to have the top arm swing freely up and down without any appreciable side movement. The carbon holders are merely strips of heavy tin, which need only be screwed up sufficiently tight to hold the carbons in place and yet permit their being pushed up when the top adjusting screw will no longer operate. This adjustment may be readily taken care of by means of a long, slender wood screw with the point filed off and a metal disk soldered to the top. Connections are made to the carbon holders either under a screw head or by soldering the wires to the metal.

In operating any arc light on the commercial 110-volt current some resistance must be placed in the circuit. An earthen jar of water with two strips of tin or lead for electrodes, will answer every purpose.

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¶A small leak in an oil or water pipe on an automobile can be
temporarily stopped by melting a piece of rubber over the hole.

Ornamental Pencil and Pincushion Holder

A nicely polished animal horn may be turned into an article of utility instead of being merely used as a wall ornament, as shown in the illustration. An old lamp base, heavy enough to balance the horn, and secured to it with a bolt, is all that is needed to effect the transformation.

Knife to Trim Magazines for Binding

There has been a number of descriptions telling how to bind magazines, but none how to trim the edges after having bound them. Desiring to have my home-bound volumes appear as well as the other books, I made a trimmer as follows:

Any large knife with a straight edge will do for the cutter. I used a large hay knife. A ³⁄₈-in. hole was drilled in the untempered portion near the back of the handle end. Two U-shaped supports were made of metal and fastened to the top of an old table, between which the knife was fastened with a bolt. A piece of timber, 6 ft. long, 4 in. wide, and 2 in. thick, was used as a lever. One end of this piece had a U-shaped notch cut in it to straddle the supports under the projecting ends. A board was attached to the table top, having one straight edge set where the knife edge would just pass it.

If the knife has a good sharp edge it will do very satisfactory work. When the edges are trimmed the knife can be removed and used for its original work.--Contributed by E. S. Mundell, Lowpoint, Ill.

How to Repair Rubber Gloves

While making a bunglesome job of patching a pair of rubber gloves, which I used to keep the stains from my fingers while developing photographic plates, a physician friend happened along and told me how to do it properly. The method is as follows: Procure a piece of card, such as heavy Bristol board used for filing cards; spread it on one side, rather thick, with ordinary library paste and stick it to the rubber tissue, preferably dentists’ rubber dam of light weight; smooth it flat, and let the paste dry. When a patch is needed cut one out, rubber and card together, and fit it to the cut in the glove. Put the glove on the hand inside out, moisten the patch with cement, let it dry for a few seconds and then press it in place hard. If the tear is large, it is easier to lay the moistened patch down and fit the edges of the tear to it, then press hard in place. After the cement has thoroughly dried out, soak the patch in water and remove the bit of card. This gives a patch fastened securely to the extreme edges; flat, water-tight, and as fit to stand boiling as any patch, for sterilizing. After removing the card, the glove is dusted with talcum.--Contributed by J. S. Hogans, Uniontown, Pa.

Miniature Metal-Bound Chests

BY F. E. TUCK

Boys in a manual-training class became very enthusiastic over the making of small chestlike boxes, bound with ornamental metal, and adapted them to a great variety of uses. The boxes were designed to suit the taste of the maker and for use as glove, handkerchief, jewelry, toilet, treasure and other boxes, lined with silk, and finished in wax and varnish, in various stains. Oak was used for most of them, and the metals employed were largely copper and brass, although silver is suitable for small boxes. They are simple in construction, as shown in the working drawings, and can be made in the home workshop. The photograph reproduced shows a group of boxes, for various purposes, and in several styles of metal binding. The long box at the top is for gloves or ties; the larger ones are for the boys’ personal use, caring for collars, handkerchiefs, etc.; the smaller boxes are for the dresser, providing for the care of jewelry and similar small articles. The boxes proved great favorites as gifts, and the monogram of the recipient may be etched into the metal.

Well-seasoned oak is the most suitable material for the making of the boxes, as it harmonizes well with the plain metal trimmings. The quarter-sawed variety is preferable, being more ornamental, and less likely to warp or twist. For most of the boxes, stock ³⁄₈ in. thick is suitable, although this may be cut down to ⁵⁄₁₆ in. for the smaller boxes, if convenient. The method of joining the pieces is similar in all the varieties of boxes, and the jewel box illustrated in the working drawings will be taken as a specimen. The sides of the box are butted against the ends, lapping over them, flush, and nailed with small brads. The bottom is fitted between the sides and ends, and nailed so that the nails are concealed by the metal bands, at the four corners, and at other points, if bands are placed near the middle. The stock for the box is cut and finished on all sides to the following dimensions: all pieces to be ³⁄₈ in. thick; top, 4¹⁄₂ by 7¹⁄₂ in.; two sides, 1⁷⁄₈ by 7 in.; two ends, 1⁷⁄₈ by 4 in.; bottom, 3¹⁄₄ by 6¹⁄₄ inches.

All the pieces should be scraped carefully to a smooth finish, and the nails started with an awl, or a slightly flattened nail of the same size, fitted into a hand drill. Extreme care must be taken, in nailing, that the surface of the wood is not marred, which is likely to occur if the nails are driven into the wood too rapidly, or without starting holes for them. The feet are cut from a strip, ³⁄₈ in. thick and ³⁄₄ in. wide, the cut edges being sandpapered smooth without destroying the squareness and the sharp corners. They are nailed to the bottom of the box with brads, care being taken to have the end grain of each block at the end of the box, particularly if the metal trimmings do not cover the blocks.

The cover is fixed in place with small plain butts, countersunk into the wood, one leaf into the top and the other into the back of the box. A simpler method is to set both leaves of the hinge into the edge of the back. Care must be taken in fitting the hinges that they are set in line with the back of the box, and holes for the screws should be made before driving them into place. Too much care cannot be taken with the fitting of the hinges, as the proper fitting of the lid, both as to resting level and being in line with the edges of the box, depends on the fitting of the hinges.

After the construction work and nailing is completed, the box may be sandpapered carefully, rubbing in the direction of the grain, and being careful not to round off the edges unduly. The oversandpapering of woodwork marks the work of the careless novice. The box should be handled as little as possible while the metal trimmings are being fitted, and, before the finish is applied, should be gone over lightly with sandpaper to remove dirt. When the metal pieces are fitted, and ready to be fastened in place, the finish may be applied to the box. Warm browns or other dark-oak finishes, are best suited to the simple style of chest, and the metal fittings. A coat of stain should be applied, and this followed, when dry, by a coat of filler, rubbed well into the pores of the wood. The filler should be permitted to dry hard and the surface is then sandpapered very lightly with a fine grade of paper--No. 00 is best. Do not rub through the filler or stain, particularly at the corners. Wax is the most readily applied outer finish. Several coats may be used to give a substantial finish. A coat of shellac, followed by coats of rubbing varnish, dried well and rubbed between coats with No. 00 sandpaper may be applied for a high-gloss finish. This is a more involved process and requires that the varnish be rubbed down with pumice stone and water, and finished with an oil polish.

Copper or brass, of No. 20 gauge or lighter, is suitable for the making of the trimmings. The details of the handles are shown in the sketch, at the right. Cut a back plate, ⁷⁄₈ in. by 1¹⁄₄ in., and fit the handle of wire to it by means of a strap, bent from a strip of metal, ³⁄₈ in. by ⁷⁄₈ in. The other bands are merely strips, ¹⁄₂ to ³⁄₄ in. in width and fitted to the size of the box, where applied. Strap hinges of the same metal may be made, but the most convenient method for the amateur is to fit the metal strips into place at the hinges, merely as ornamental features. Various types of locks may be fitted into the box, and for the worker having the necessary skill, it is interesting to make a hasp, as indicated in the sketch.

The designing and making of the metal trimmings affords unlimited opportunity for originality, and a good plan is to fit the desired strips, cut from paper, to the box before making them of the metal. It is well to remember, in this connection, that the simple bands and forms are better suited to the plain box than ornate trimmings. Having determined upon suitable patterns for the metal strips, cut them from the sheet with snips, or tinner’s shears, care being taken to produce a smooth edge. A file may be used to remove roughnesses and to round the edges of the metal slightly. The metal is fastened with escutcheon pins, which add to the ornamental effect if properly spaced. Holes for them must be drilled, or punched, through the metal.

The metal may be left smooth and polished, or hammered with the round end of a ball-peen hammer, to produce the dented effect shown on several of the boxes in the group. This, as well as other finishing of the metal, must be done before it is fixed in place. Beautiful colors may be given to the metal by heating it, and observing the colors as they “run.” A trial will enable one to judge the proper heat for the various colors, which “run” from a light straw to a deep purple, with various reddish intermediate tones. A brown oxidized finish, or a verd-antique--greenish--finish may also be obtained. The metal should be polished with wax to preserve the finish if other than the latter type is used.

The boxes are lined with silk or other suitable material. The method is as follows: Cut cardboard pieces to fit against the inner sides of the bottom, sides, and ends. Pad one side of them with cotton batting, and cover with silk, gluing the edges of it on the back of the cardboard, as shown in the sketch. By bending the pieces slightly, they may be inserted and glued in place. Care must be taken in handling the glue, that the silk is not soiled. Pads of felt, or chamois skin, may be glued to the bottom of the feet of the box, so as not to mar the surface upon which it rests.

The most popular boxes, which are especially suitable for gift purposes, are the jewelry, glove, and handkerchief boxes. Their dimensions are: jewelry box, 2³⁄₄ by 4 by 7¹⁄₂ in.; glove box, 3¹⁄₄ by 5 by 13 in.; handkerchief box, 4 by 6 by 10 in. Other sizes suited to special purposes may, of course, be designed readily, and made in walnut, mahogany, or other cabinet woods.

A Piano or Reading Lamp

BY WILLIAM E. FINKERNAGEL

The lamp illustrated was designed for use in reading, the doing of hand work at which one is seated in a chair away from a table lamp, or for lighting a piano rack. It is light, readily moved about, easily made, and of pleasing design. It combines construction in wood and metal, is inexpensive, and within the range of a careful amateur craftsman. The pedestal is shown assembled at the left, and above are detailed sketches of the parts. The construction of the shade, which is 18 in. square, is shown at the right. The central post is 40 in. long and 2 in. square, and the base measures 16 in. on the arms.

The stock bill for the lamp is as follows:

1 piece, 2 by 2 in., oak, for post.

2 pieces, 1 by 3 by 16 in., oak, for base.

1 piece, 1 by 6 by 6 in., oak, for cap.

1 piece, 1 by 4 by 4 in., oak, for column base.

1 piece, 1 by 2 by 3 in., oak, for braces.

Copper or brass strip, 1 in. wide and ³⁄₃₂ in. thick, for shade
frame. Wire braces for shade.

Make all the pieces, smoothing and finishing their surfaces with a scraper, before assembling the parts. The cap A may be made first. Square the piece to 6 in. and cut a ¹⁄₄-in. chamfer around the upper edge. Cut the 2 by 3-in. block on one of its diagonals and smooth it to form the braces B. Square the ends of the post C to a length of 40 in., and smooth up the sides. Square the column base D to 4 in. and cut a ³⁄₁₆-in. chamfer around its upper side.

Square up and smooth the cross arms E and F, for the base, to a width of 3 in. and a length of 16 in. Bevel the upper corners 1 in., at an angle of 45°. Bore holes with a ¹⁄₂-in. bit to form the rounded ends of the portions cut out from the lower sides of the cross braces. Chisel the wood away between the holes and smooth the resulting surfaces. The half-lap joint, by which the cross braces are joined, may then be made. It should not be made until the lower portions are cut out of the cross braces, and the remaining portions are made of exactly the same width, 2¹⁄₂ in., according to the drawing. The joint must be fitted tightly in what is termed a driving fit, or it will not be strong enough.

The construction may be assembled as follows, although several methods may be adopted that will prove satisfactory: Fix the cap A to the top of the post with glue and ¹⁄₂-in. dowels, bored not quite through the cap. Screws may be used for this purpose, but they mar the finish of the upper surface of the cap. Glue the braces B into the corners to support the cap. They should be warmed before applying the glue and rubbed slightly to bring them into place tightly and to distribute the glue evenly. Small brads may be used to nail them in place, but care must be taken not to mar the finish.

The column base D may be fixed to the bottom of the post in the same way that the cap was fixed at the upper end. The cross braces E and F, forming the base, should be glued in the half-lap joint and fixed to the column base with glue and dowels, or screws sunk into sockets from the lower side of the braces.

When the glue has dried, the pedestal should be scraped and cleaned preparatory to a final sandpapering before applying the stain and varnish.

The arms G for the shade holder are made of strips of brass or copper, 1 in. wide and 8³⁄₄ in. long, bent to the proper form, as shown in the sketch. The straight end, 2 in. long, is provided with two holes through which screws are fixed into the top of the cap.

The shade is constructed as follows: Make a 4-in. square, H, of brass strip, 1 in. wide, and solder or rivet it at the joint. Make the lower square J of the same material and in the same way, 18 in. on each side. Solder ¹⁄₈-in. wire, of a length that will give the desired slant to the shade, at the corners of the squares, forming a rigid frame for the covering. Cloth or silk may be used to cover the frame.

The braces for the shade may then be fastened to the top of the cap, as shown in the assembly sketch, and their ends shaped to hold the frame firmly. The pedestal should be smoothed off immediately preparatory to finishing, and the sharp edges removed slightly. Care should be taken in sandpapering, since rubbing across the grain is ruinous, as is too much sandpapering. The latter particularly smacks of the novice. A coat of stain, one of filler rubbed in thoroughly, a coat of shellac, and a finish coat of wax or varnish will give a satisfactory finish. The shellac and varnish coats should be permitted to dry thoroughly and should then be sandpapered lightly before applying other coats.

The electrical connections for the lamp may be made from a cord extension to a socket fixed in the center of the cap. In some instances it may be desirable to connect the cord from a floor socket. In that case the post should be built up of two pieces of 1-in. thickness, and a groove to admit the cord made in the center of it.

Sewing Rack Attached to Rocker

A rack like that shown in the illustration is convenient as a support for articles being sewed or repaired by the home worker. It was made by fastening two bars from a towel rack to the arm of the rocker by means of a bolt. When not in use, the bars are folded back under the arm of the chair. One of the bars may be provided with hooks so that scissors and other sewing requisites may be placed on them.--Mrs. J. E. McCoy, Philadelphia, Pa.

Glass Bottle as a Candle Lamp

A candle may be carried in a glass bottle, as shown in the sketch, with little danger of setting fire to surrounding objects, and without permitting the melted wax to leak upon the floor. The bottom of the bottle is cut off and the candle inserted as shown, the neck affording a convenient handle.--Stanley Radcliffe, Laurel, Md.

A Folding Wall Desk

To provide an inexpensive desk in a shop, where space was quite limited, the folding wall desk shown in the sketch was devised. It was cut from a packing box and the hinged lid built up of boards of better quality. To give a good writing surface, a piece of heavy cardboard was fastened to the writing bed with thumb tacks and may be renewed whenever necessary. The inside of the desk was fitted with filing compartments arranged to care for a large variety of shop forms and stationery. An inkwell holder made of a strip of sheet metal was fixed to the end of the desk and the bottle suspended in it, there being space for additional bottles also. The hinged lid is provided with a hasp and padlock. When not in use the desk may be tilted upward and locked against the wall with small catches. By using a T-square against the left edge of the writing bed, a convenient drafting table for shop sketching is provided.

FIG. 2

FIG. 4

FIG. 5

FIG. 3

The Packing Box from Which the Desk was Made is Shown in Fig. 1. The Dotted Lines Indicate Where It was Cut to Give the Slanting Writing Surface. The Device in Its Normal Position is Shown in Fig. 2; Hooked against the Wall, in Fig. 3, and with the Lid Raised, Showing the Compartments, in Fig. 5.]

The detailed construction, for the making of the desk from stock lumber, by boys, or amateur workers with tools, may be carried out as follows: Determine upon the size of the proposed desk. Convenient dimensions are 30 in. long, 18 in. wide, 7 in. high at the back, and 4 in. high at the front. Use ⁷⁄₈-in. soft wood; pine and poplar are suitable. Cut and shape all the pieces before beginning the assembling of the parts. The wood should be planed smooth and may be sandpapered lightly when the construction is completed, before applying a finish. A simple arrangement of the pieces so they can be nailed together is that shown in the sketch, which was used in making the box. First shape the pieces for the sides, 5¹⁄₄ in. wide at the larger end, 2¹⁄₄ in. wide at the smaller, and 16¹⁄₄ in. long. Clamp the boards together, or tack them with two wire nails while shaping them, so that they will be exactly alike. Make a piece 5¹⁄₂ in. wide and 30 in. long for the back, and one the same length and 2¹⁄₂ in. wide for the front. Nail them to the ends, as shown, permitting the slight excess material to project over the upper edges of the sidepieces. Trim off this extra stock with a plane so that the upper surfaces of the front and back conform to the slant of the sidepieces. Make a strip 4 in. wide for the upper edge of the desk, to which the writing bed is hinged. Cut pieces for the bottom and nail them in place.

Before nailing down the upper hinge strip the interior fittings should be made. Use wood not thicker than ¹⁄₂ in., and fit the pieces into place carefully, nailing them firmly through the outer faces of the desk. A better method is to make the pigeonholes or compartments with a piece of the thin stock on the ends of the partitions, so that the compartments are built up as a unit and slid into the desk, no nails being necessary to hold them.

The lid should be made of sound, dry stock and glued up of strips about 3 in. wide, to prevent it from warping or twisting easily. If the person making the desk has the necessary skill, it is best to fix a strip, 2 in. wide, at each end of the writing bed, to hold the pieces together and to keep the bed in shape.

The holder for the inkwell is made of a 1-in. strip of metal, bent to the shape shown in Fig. 4, and drilled to fit small screws. A can is supported in the holder and the bottle rests in it.

The desk may be finished by painting it or giving it a coat of shellac and one of varnish, either after it has been stained to match adjoining woodwork, or in the natural color.

Sewing Stand with Workbag in Top

The stand shown in the sketch may be made by using part of a small table, or by building the framework especially for the purpose. It was made for use in connection with sewing and fancy work, and provides for the tools and incidental materials necessary. The stand is 28 in. high and about 15 in. square at the top. The bag built into the frame may be made of any strong, suitable material, and its color should match the finish of the wooden part. A row of nails are set in the top edge of the rails to provide for spools of thread and thimbles. Scissors and other tools are placed on the shoulder hooks fastened on the side of the rail.

* * * * *

¶When paper sticks to a negative during printing remove it by soaking
it in the hypo bath, sacrificing the print rather than the negative.

Toy Paper Warships

FIG. 3

FIG. 2

FIG. 4

Fleets of Battleships may be Made of Paper]

With a pair of scissors, pins, and a newspaper or two, a fleet of warships can be made to sail the seven seas of polished floors. Strips of paper, through which holes at opposite points have been cut, and pinned together at one end, as shown in Fig. 1, are used for the sides of the boat. Rolls of paper are slipped through the opposite holes, as shown at Fig. 2, and provide support for the deck, which is a flat piece of paper pointed at the end to fit between the sides of the craft. A second deck fitted with funnels and masts, as shown in Fig. 3, is made of a folded piece of paper with holes cut through it for the masts and funnels, which are rolls of paper. If plain paper is used, the warships may be made in several colors, which adds to the effect of rivalry between the fleets. Other types of craft may easily be devised, two of which are shown in Fig. 4. Not only the youngsters in the household, but their elders as well, may find not a little amusement and diversion in the making of a fleet of such warships, modeled after battleships, destroyers, battle cruisers, and other vessels.

Caster Board for Scrubbing and Floorwork

A board for use in work that requires tedious kneeling, as in scrubbing, repairing of sidewalk lights, and similar work, may be made as follows: Procure a board, ⁷⁄₈ by 10 by 14 in., and pad it with a section of carpet. Place three casters under it, two being set at the rear and one at the front edge. If desired, small strips may be nailed at the sides to prevent the knees from slipping off. Such a device enables the user to move along the floor easily without injuring the knees.--R. S. Matzen, Fort Collins, Colo.

A Lamp Cooker

An ordinary circular-wick kerosene lamp produces enough heat to do considerable cooking, provided the heat is properly utilized. A simple and practicable method of converting such a lamp into a cooker is as follows: Saw a hole, 12 in. square, in the top of a small table, or packing box of about the same height as a table. Cover this with a piece of sheet metal, having a 4-in. hole in the center. Place a 5-in. flowerpot over the hole in the metal, and plug up the hole in the bottom of the pot with fire clay or plaster of Paris. Vegetables in jars may be set around the flowerpot to cook slowly and a roast in a pan on top of it. A wooden box, or metal pail, large enough to cover the arrangement, should be placed over it. Air holes should be provided in the lower box and in the cover.

To operate the device light the lamp and when it is burning brightly, place it under the table, elevating it so that the top of the chimney is in the center and barely within the rim of the flowerpot. Use little water in the vegetables and keep the caps loosely on the jars. The roast, if well buttered, will brown nicely, and while the cooking will require considerably more time than it would in a range, the results will be as good, if not superior. The natural juices are preserved by the slow cooking at comparatively low temperature. The cover may be lifted to turn the meat occasionally. This device will appeal to campers, summer cottagers and others.--W. W. Baldwin, New York, N. Y.

Placing a Miter Box on the Workbench

In placing a miter box on a workbench considerable space is often wasted, and the workman is obstructed. By raising the miter box on the bench mounting it upon two blocks, about 6 in. high and set back about 18 in. from the front of the bench, small space is utilized, and the tool may be used as conveniently as otherwise. The space under the miter box and the open space in front of it are available for the disposal of ordinary tools, and there is no danger of the saw striking them. By making another stand, the height of the bearing surface of the miter box, and moving this about on the bench, long pieces may be handled with ease. This stand is removed from the bench when not in use.--Henry Simon, Laguna Beach, Calif.

A Book and Document Protector

A device for punching identification marks in the pages of books or papers, may be made easily by setting pins into a small box filled with sealing wax. The box should be large enough to accommodate the desired wording without crowding, leaving about ¹⁄₄ in. all around the edge. Cut the box, which may be of cardboard, to a height ¹⁄₁₆ in. less than the length of a common pin. Mark the words to be punched on a piece of cardboard which just fits into the box. Punch holes along the letters and transfer them to the bottom of the box. Insert pins from the outside through the bottom of the box and permit their ends to come out of the holes in the cardboard guide. Cut away enough of the guide piece so that the melted sealing wax can be poured in, setting the pins firmly. The guide piece is then removed, exposing the ends of the pins about ¹⁄₁₆ in. If the work is carefully done they will be of uniform length. Place heavy blotting paper or cardboard under the page when using the punch.--D. G. Stevenson, Chicago, Ill.

Blotter Attached to Wrist Saves Time

The annoyance of having to look for a misplaced blotter or to pick it up each time a signature is to be blotted, may be avoided by the use of the wrist blotter shown in the sketch. It is made by folding a piece of blotting paper, 6 in. wide and 12 in. long, into three sections. A rubber band is placed in the fold of the blotter and passed around the wrist, thus holding it in place until no longer needed. When one portion of the blotter becomes soiled, the folding may be reversed and a new surface exposed.--Frank W. Roth, Joplin, Mo.

Celluloid Cover for Road Maps

Road maps are easily soiled and torn unless properly protected, and a satisfactory case to hold them should provide for conveniently examining the map. A piece of transparent celluloid about twice the size of the map when folded can be made into a suitable cover. Fold the celluloid into an envelope form and rivet or sew the ends, leaving the fourth edge open. The map is inserted in the cover with the desired section uppermost, affording protection and ready access at the same time.

Shield for Heater in Chick Brooding House

A shield of sheet metal, having a small heater in the center of it, provides a good means of warming a brooding house for small chicks. The heat is radiated from the shield and the chicks remain at a distance, seeking a comfortable temperature. The device may be made easily by cutting a sheet of metal to form a cone-shaped hood and fitting it with a vent passing out through the roof of the house.--Samuel S. Snelbaker, York, Pa.

Kink for Removal of Wall Paper

Removing old wall paper, particularly from the ceiling of a room, is a disagreeable task at best, and the device shown in the sketch aids in the process. A board, about 15 in. long and 12 in. wide, was provided with strips at its edges and a pad of flannel was fitted into it. The device is used by moistening the pad and applying it to the wall paper. The paper is loosened thoroughly and may be removed in pieces of considerable size. This method has been found much quicker than that of soaking the paper with a moistened brush.--J. H. Moore, Hamilton, Canada.

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¶A clay pipe may be used as a crucible for melting small quantities
of metal.
The stem is broken off and a plug fitted into it.

A Secret Trinket Case for the Bookshelf

BY T. H. LINTHICUM

Practical use as well as the novelty of its construction makes the trinket case shown in the illustration well worth the time and effort necessary to make it. Various kinds of wood--preferably of the better cabinet varieties--are suited to the design shown, which was made of ³⁄₁₆-in. stock, like that used in cigar boxes. The size shown is that of a bound volume of a magazine like Popular Mechanics, and may be adapted to special needs. The back and the cover slide in grooves, which are not visible when the “book” is closed, making it difficult and interesting for one to discover how the case is opened. The back may be marked and lettered to resemble a bound volume closely, and if special secrecy is desired, it may even be covered with leather, in exact duplication of those on a bound set of magazines kept in the bookcase with it.

Make the pieces for the frame of the box first. If possible, make one strip of the proper width--2 in., in this case--and long enough for the two ends and the front. Make another strip 1³⁄₄ in. wide and long enough for the partition and false back of the tray. Cut these to the lengths indicated in the detailed sketches of the parts. Mark out the grooves in the end pieces carefully and cut them with a saw that cuts a groove ³⁄₃₂ in. wide. The grooves may be cut by clamping a straight strip of wood on the surface of the ends the proper distance from the top, and sawing cautiously along the strip to the proper depth. The grooves across the grain may be cut similarly, or in a miter box.

Glue the pieces of the frame together, taking care that the corners are square. If necessary, place blocks inside to insure that the clamping will not disturb the right angles of the box. Shape the bottom and cover pieces nearly to the final size before gluing them; then, if small nicks are made in the edge, they may be removed by a cut of the plane, when the case is complete. Glue the sliding pieces to the cover and to the back. This must be done carefully, and it is convenient to drive small brads part way into the second piece, from the inner side, to prevent the pieces from slipping while being glued. If proper care is taken, only a small amount of glue will be forced out, and this can be removed with a chisel when dry. The edges may be trimmed off to their exact size, and the entire construction given a final light sandpapering. It is then ready for the stain and shellac, or other finish. The parts that slide in grooves should not be shellacked or varnished, because this is apt to cause them to stick.

A Cylinder Reversing Switch

A cylinder reversing switch for small battery motors may be constructed cheaply, from a 3-in. length of broom handle and ¹⁄₂-in. boards, as shown. The four brushes are strips of copper. The contacts on the moving cylinder are eight brass tacks, connected as indicated in the diagram. The wires are insulated with paper where they cross. The handle is of heavy wire, and two tacks limit its motion, as shown. The method of connecting the switch is as follows, for either a series or shunt motor: Remove the two wires from the motor brushes, and connect the two middle brushes of the switch to the motor brushes. Connect the wires removed from the motor brushes to the outer brushes of the switch.--Claude Schuder, Sumner, Ill.

Summer Radiator Cover Serves as Cupboard in Winter

Because of the accumulation of dust on a kitchen radiator in the summer, a cupboard was built over it, and used at other seasons of the year for the storage of various articles, by fitting it with shelves. While in use as a radiator cover, the top of the cupboard provided a convenient seat. If properly made, cabinets of this type can be used in other parts of the home to advantage.

A Safety Spring for Porch Swings

It is often necessary to hang swinging porch seats fairly close to surrounding woodwork, which is marred by their swinging too far. To overcome this, procure a coil screen-door spring and cut it in two. Bend a hook on each cut end, and fasten one of the springs to the center of each end of the swing, and to the floor. This permits only gentle swinging.--F. C. Hayes, Niagara Falls, Canada.

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¶Proper ventilation of cellars makes it desirable to provide a screen
door on the cellar entrance.

Frying Pan Made of Tin Cover

If you want an egg done to perfection try the frying pan made of a tin cover. It was intended for emergency use only, but proved so satisfactory that I kept it as a regular fixture. The wire handle was fitted to the rim through two holes, as shown and hooks under the bottom of the pan, the twisting of the wires giving the required strength.

Safety Cover for Valves on Gas Stove

In order to safeguard the valves of a kitchen gas stove with which children might occasionally meddle, I fitted a sheet-metal cover over the valves as shown in the sketch. The cover is wired to the feed pipe and is swung forward, as indicated by the dotted outline, when not in use. Small catches may be fixed at each end of the cover, if desired.--Leroy Schenck, Mount Vernon, N. Y.

A Come-Back Rolling Can

An interesting toy may be made by fitting a rubber band into a tin can and weighting it as shown. When the can is rolled on the floor it will return to its original place by reason of the weight which is supported on a string at the middle of the rubber band. The latter is passed through two holes at each end of the can, and when the can is rolled along the floor the elastic is wound at the middle. The weight reverses the direction of rolling.--Albert French, Hamilton, Ontario, Can.

Removable Paraffin Covers for Jars

To remove paraffin from the tops of glasses or jars of preserves, without getting bits of the covering into the contents, is difficult. When pouring the melted paraffin over the top, put a small cork in the center and let the paraffin harden around it, as shown. To remove the covering, dip the top of the glass in hot water. This sealing can be used again by placing it on the top of hot jelly, the paraffin melting and adhering to the glass.--J. E. McCoy, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.

A Marble-under-Bridge Game of Skill

The object of this game is to pass a marble from one end to the other of the “roadway,” under the “bridges,” and over the “inclines,” without dropping it. A stop must be made at each hole. The device is made as follows: Cut two pieces of wood, ¹⁄₄ by 1³⁄₄ by 12 in., and join them to form a right angle. Cut pieces of cardboard, 4 each, 1³⁄₄ by 2¹⁄₂ in. wide, with a ³⁄₄-in. hole in the center, for inclines B, and 1³⁄₄ by 3 in., for bridges A; also two pieces 1³⁄₄ in. square for stops C. Fasten them with tacks as shown. The marble should be large enough so that it will rest in the holes at B.

Made at Home

By Bonnie E. Snow]